How do you rot a tree stump


How to Rot a Tree Stump? — Our Tips to Do it Fast (that Work)

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Have a stubborn tree stump on your property? Learn how to rot it out quickly!

If you’re reading this page, then you’ll likely also be interested in one of our many tree growing guides. For instance, learn how to successfully raise hickory trees.

Imagine this:  A great storm is sweeping through your neighborhood.  You can hear the wind howling and the rain hitting the windows of your house.  The light is flickering, and dark clouds chase across the sky.

Then you hear the unmistakable, harrowing noise of tree branches crashing to the ground.  When the storm is over, you find your favorite tree damaged beyond salvage.  There is only one thing to do: Cut it down.

While the initial work to remove the tree is doable, you are left with an unsightly stump in your lawn.

The question now is how to remove that part of the tree so that you can begin restoring your yard to its usual glory.

In many instances, there are two quick and easy ways to get rid of the stump:  grind it out or burn it out.

But what if that troublesome tree stump is close to your deck, shed, or even home?  Grinders come with the risk of compromising the surrounding structure’s integrity.  And a controlled burn so close to an essential part of your home is a dangerous prospect.

With the usual removal methods no longer practical, you might end up scratching your head.

Without question, the stump needs to be removed.  Aside from being unsightly, its root system damage the foundation of your home.  If left in the ground, this could prove to be very dangerous to you and your family. 

Fortunately, there is another method of removal that you may not have considered.  Simply put, you can rot it out of the ground. 

Sure, removing wood this way will take a bit longer.  However, when you consider the potential consequences of the alternatives—grinding or burning—the choice becomes clear.

Here you will find step-by-step instructions for rotting out a tree stump and everything you need to get the job done.

What You’ll Learn

Different Chemicals You Can Use

You can choose different chemicals to do the job. The process of using them is the same, but the rate at which you see results varies dramatically.  There are also some safety considerations for you to keep in mind when selecting the chemical to get rid of that pesky tree stump and its roots.

Potassium Nitrate

Potassium nitrate is an effective chemical for removing a tree stump close to your house.  It is often explicitly sold as a wood remover.

Potassium nitrate stimulates wood decomposition and kills it completely.  Its use will result in the fastest rotting process of the stump.

But potassium nitrate is a dangerous chemical.  So you should make sure that you handle it with care.  If you have children or pets, you may want to choose one of the other, less caustic compounds.

High Nitrogen Fertilizer

Stumps won’t stand a chance if you choose to use a high nitrogen fertilizer.

Both ammonium nitrate and ammonium sulfate are high nitrogen fertilizers and contain no phosphate or potassium.  This nitrogen source will feed the fungi and bacteria that decompose wood. 

Even healthy wood will decompose very quickly if you decide to use this compound.

Remember that these are also dangerous chemical compounds and should be handled with care and consideration for the people or pets around them.

Bleach

Using bleach to rot out tree stumps is a method whose effectiveness depends on the tree in question.  On some trees, it will work, and on others, it won’t. There’s no way to know how effective it will be ahead of time. So, you are looking at a trial by fire scenario.

Because bleach is caustic, it will rot wood at a moderate rate but not nearly as quickly as potassium nitrate or fertilizer. 

Because bleach is a dangerous chemical, you should exercise care when using it around children or pets.   Additionally, bleach could kill the plants in the surrounding area. 

Epsom Salt or Rock Salt

Using one of these salts can be an effective way to remove a tree stump on your property. 

Over time, the salt will deplete the wood of the nutrients it needs to live.  However, when using one of these salts, the rotting process is slow.  Out of all of these chemical compound choices, this method will take the longest.

But this is the most natural method of rotting wood, as the chemicals in these compounds are naturally occurring in the environment.  So, if you have children or pets that will frequent the treated area, this is your safest choice.

Make sure to learn about the many different types of boxwood that you can consider growing on your property.

Materials You Need for the Job

While the overall process may take some time, you won’t need much equipment to get the job done.  Here is a list of all the materials you need:

  • Drill and a large drill bit
  • Hand-saw (you can use a chain-saw if you are very proficient)
  • Tarp or other plastic cover
  • Mulch
  • Eye protection
  • Gloves

Steps to Rot Out a Tree Stump

Follow these instructions to rot a tree stump out of the ground safely and effectively.   Also, waiting for warmer weather conditions is probably a good idea as the higher humidity and heat can be helpful.

Step 1:  Prepare the Stump

Using the hand-saw or chain-saw, cut what is left of the tree as close to ground level as you safely can.

The smaller the amount of wood you need to remove, the smaller the amount of time it will take to get rid of it.

Step 2:  Drill the Holes

Using your drill and large bit, drill holes into the top of the stump.  These holes should be no less than 3 to 4 inches deep.  Space the holes about 2 inches apart and spread across the entire area.

Step 3:  Fill the Holes

This is where you select the appropriate chemical that safely and effectively suits your specific needs.  Remember, the process for how all of the chemicals work is the same.

Fill each of the holes with water as it is needed for the chemical reaction to take place.

Next, add a generous amount of the chosen chemical into each hole you have drilled.

Step 4:  Cover the Stump

Cover the stump and the surrounding area with the tarp to keep water from escaping. 

Keeping the water under the tarp will keep the wood and soil moist.  This will allow the chemical reaction to continue for an extended period of time. 

This reaction is what will essentially dissolve the wood and roots.

Step 5:  Break Out the Mulch

Cover the tarp and surrounding areas with a wood-chip-based mulch. 

Once you have it covered, water the mulch thoroughly as it will also retain water and keep the grass and soil outside of the tarp moist.  This will ensure that the chemical has enough moisture to continue reacting.

Follow Up Instructions

Depending on the chemical you chose, you will need to repeat Steps 3, 4, and 5 every month to a month and a half. 

When you uncover the stump, you should notice that the rotting wood is soft and somewhat spongy.  You need to remove this rotting timber with a hatchet or an ax. Then, it is time to drill new holes and fill them with water and chemicals.  That way, the chemicals will be attacking fresh timber versus wood that has already rotted.

Once the wood has rotted to the ground level, you need one last, large batch of your chosen chemical and some water to finish the job.  You can just leave the remainder to decay in the soil.

Depending on which chemical option you chose, it can take anywhere from a short 6 weeks to 12 months to rot a stump down to its roots.

If you still have questions about removing a stump, you can always ask or hire a local tree service to help with the removal.  Most tree removal companies will be happy to point you in the right direction regarding getting rid of the stump.

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How to Rot a Tree Stump Quickly | 7 Steps for Rotting A Tree Stump in Oregon | Urban Forest Pro TOP arborists near you

After you’ve had a tree removed you’re left with a typically unsightly reminder, the stump. Tree stumps are an eyesore, a tripping hazard, and they can attract unwanted pests like termites or even fungi and bacteria. If left to simply decay and rot away on its own, without any sort of treatment, a stump can take up to ten years to disappear. When it comes to rotting a tree stump in Oregon, the rate of decay depends on many different factors such as species of tree, size of the tree, and the climate and weather conditions. 

At Urban Forest Pro, your leading Oregon arborist, we do stump grinding in the Portland and surrounding area, although due to demand we do have to limit our grinding services and can only offer it to current tree service clients and not as a standalone service. 

To remove a tree stump you can try to tackle the job yourself, although stump grinders are quite heavy and can be difficult to use at times. So how do you get rid of a tree stump then? What is the best way? Well, the answer is in the original suggestion of letting it rot away, but doing so quickly.

How Do You Rot a Tree Stump Fast?

The fastest way to remove a tree stump without using a grinder is the chemical method. By applying chemicals to holes drilled into the stump, you speed up the natural decay process and the remaining tree fibers and roots will break down more quickly. It is considered one of the best ways to remove a tree stump from your yard. To use this method you would want to employ the following steps.

Steps to Rotting a Tree Stump From A Leading Arborist
  1. Begin on a dry day or after a number of dry days if possible. This way the tree stump will be looking for liquid and nutrients and will soak up the chemicals faster. 
  2. If you are capable, use a chainsaw to cut the remaining part of the tree as close to the ground as possible. By doing this the chemicals will have less material to eat through. Chainsaws can be dangerous though, so make sure you always use caution, wear steel-toed boots and eye protection. 
  3. Once the tree stump is as close to the ground as you can comfortably get it to go, drill a number of holes into the top of the stump and along the sides in a downward direction. The bigger the drill bit the better, and each of the holes should be a few inches deep. 
  4. After drilling the holes into the stump, you will apply the chemicals that will break down the remaining wood. Oregon does have strict legal restrictions about the kind of chemicals you can purchase for this sort of project. Ideally, you would want a commercial fertilizer that is high in nitrogen, since it will give you the fastest results, but cow manure is also effective. Another more natural alternative is Epsom salt. It is also a cost-effective solution as a 19lbs page starts at $10. It has similar dissolving properties to nitrogen but is a more organic approach. When you have chosen the chemical you will use, pack the holes with as much of it as you can. 
  5. Then soak the ground around the stump and wet the top and sides of the stump. After the stump is wet, cover it with a plastic tarp to trap the moisture around the stump. Moisture is ultimately what will help the chemicals break down the wood particles faster.  
  6. The next step is to apply mulch over the top of the plastic tarp. Organic mulch, like hay or tree bark, is best for this task as it will retain more moisture and help to keep the tarp in place. 
  7. You can use rocks and stones to weigh down the tarp further to help keep it in place, although this step is considered optional. 

Once you have completed all of these steps, you are officially rotting a tree stump. This process is a speeding up of nature, and we all know that nature can take its time, so you should expect that it will take some time to work. How can you speed up the stump rot process even more? You can repeat the rotting steps periodically if you notice the mulch has grown dry.

What Our Clients Have to Say

“I was very pleased with the work done by Urban Forest Pro. The three young men that came out to cut and clean had a great attitude and were very pleasant to deal with. I would whole heatedly recommend this company. They offer quality of work for a very good price.

Rating: 5/5 ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Jean Younger
July 25, 2019
Read more reviews on Google!

Looking To Remove a Tree Stump Quickly?

Ultimately, the quickest way to remove your tree stump and return your yard to a flat surface is the method of stump grinding. Although our grinding services are limited, if you are in need of a tree removal service in the Portland, OR area, or if you are looking to get some stumps removed don’t hesitate to contact the tree experts at Urban Forest Pro today. The best-certified arborist in Oregon.

methods of chemical removal of trees and stumps using saltpeter, urea and other reagents

Chemical removal of stumps (butt and rhizomes) is based on the processes that occur in wood under the influence of various reagents.

Exposure to the right reagent not only kills all wood, including even roots that are not too large, but also destroys all pathogens of trunk and roots.

At the same time, each of the methods has one or another negative effect on the soil , therefore, the method of chemical exposure must be chosen taking into account this influence in order to minimize harm for the subsequent use of this piece of land.

Unfortunately, chemical attack cannot destroy the stump and root system, which is why dead wood will need to be burned or uprooted.

Therefore, chemical action is most often used in the fight against pathogens and in cases where it is necessary not only to pull out the butt with roots, but also to prevent the germination of the remnants of the root system.

For more information on how to remove stumps from trees in various ways, including uprooting and burning, see here.

Contents

  • When is such tree stump removal justified?
  • Popular drugs and their uses
    • Saltpeter and urea
    • Copper or iron sulfate
    • Table salt
  • When is the best time to treat?
  • Safety measures
  • Related videos
  • Conclusion

When is such tree stump removal justified?

As a result of removing wood with chemicals without uprooting , aggressive substances enter the soil, which negatively affect many plants.

Some of these substances can be neutralized in various ways, making the soil suitable for planting, but if construction is planned on the cleared area, then these substances will not affect the properties of the soil in any way.

Therefore, it is worth using chemical destruction and removal of stumps only if the side effects will not affect the further use of the land in any way or they can be neutralized.

The most effective chemical uprooting in relation to trees growing wild and located next to buildings . Many wild-growing breeds are distinguished by survivability, therefore, even after mechanical removal of most of the root, shoots are released and continue to grow.

With the right preparations, you can completely stop their growth and destroy most of the root system, after which the site can be used in any way.

Chemical uprooting is also the most effective in relation to the root system of diseased trees. The thing is that pathogens infect groundwater, which can lead to an epidemic among other plants.

Mechanical or manual uprooting does not remove all roots , and it is not always possible to burn out the remains, so the only reliable way to deal with such diseases is to chemically destroy the roots. Learn more about how to remove stumps and roots chemically.

Popular drugs and their uses

Here is a list of the most popular reagents that are used to destroy tree stumps and root systems:

  • saltpeter and urea;
  • copper or iron sulfate;
  • table salt.

Saltpeter and urea

These reagents (potassium and ammonium nitrate, as well as urea) are used where it is possible to burn the stump after processing.

After all, they do not destroy the wood, but sharply increase its combustibility , because of which even the roots flare up from a small fire.

For their application, holes are drilled with a diameter of 10-50 mm, the location of the holes depends on the method of removal of the tree.

On sawn stumps they drill vertically, evenly distributing holes along the cut, on broken ones they drill a trunk, placing holes around the entire perimeter.

Hole spacing 5-10 cm . If the barrel is drilled from the outside, then the drill is directed at an angle of 20–40 degrees so that the reagent does not spill out.

Any kind of saltpeter or urea is poured into the prepared holes (no need to mix them together) to the top, then a little water is poured in order for the granules to settle, and the holes are closed with a wooden, clay or plasticine stopper.

A wooden cork is made from a thick branch with a knife so that it enters the hole by 1-2 mm with a noticeable effort. Then her is inserted into the hole filled with reagent and hammered with a hammer so that it sinks 1-2 cm. The protruding remains of branches are not cut off so as not to loosen the cork.

Clay plug can be made from clay or surface soil by crushing the soil and adding a little water.

The amount of water is determined empirically - after thorough mixing, the clay should have a consistency similar to a very thick dough or not very hard plasticine.

The clay is put into the hole until it is full and compacted with a finger, gradually adding more. Plasticine cork is also made, only plasticine is used instead of clay.

After 1–2 years, the roots are dug up and a small fire is laid around the trunk .

If you do not know how to dig in the roots, we recommend reading the article Manual uprooting.

Then the fire is lit and the fire from the burning stump does not spread to neighboring trees, buildings or grass.

While the stump impregnated with reagents “ripens”, the soil around it is filled with nitrogen-containing substances , so it is advisable to plant any fruit plants at a distance of 4–5 meters from it. This distance is enough for the amount of nitrates to drop to a safe level.

After burning the stump, the hole is covered with old and new soil, then inedible plants are planted that produce a large amount of green mass. In autumn, all the greenery collected from the plant must be burned in order to completely utilize the nitrogenous compounds unsuitable for plants and people.

Next year the site is ready to accept any plants. If construction work is planned at this place, then you can start them immediately after the pit cools down.

This method is ineffective against diseases of plants with a widely branched root system , because the reagents will not damage pathogens located significantly below the combustion zone. In addition, it cannot be used on peaty soils, because a burning stump will set fire to peat, and an underground fire will start, which is very difficult to extinguish.

Copper or iron sulfate

Both substances are very toxic and kill any bacteria living in the wood, so they are used to disinfect the roots of diseased trees. Preparations are applied in the same way as saltpeter, only holes are made with a diameter of 5–8 mm and a depth of 5–10 cm. After the wood dies, the roots must be dug up and uprooted in any way or, overlaid with firewood, burned.

These reagents must not be used near metal pipes as they will drastically increase all corrosion processes.

In addition, within a radius of 3–5 meters, the content of these substances will increase, which will negatively affect the vital activity of microorganisms involved in soil restoration, so any plants will grow poorly there for several years .

If the roots were not removed, but burned, then this period will increase to tens of years. If the roots are uprooted, then in 2–3 years the level of these substances will decrease, after which the soil will gradually recover.

Table salt

This reagent completely kills the roots and any microorganisms that live in them in 1-2 months. They are introduced in the same way as both types of vitriol.

If the area around the tree is to be used as a road or a concrete pad, the stump and roots can be burned after dying. In all other cases, they must be uprooted, otherwise an excess of salt will make the soil barren for decades, and any iron product will quickly rust.

When is the best time to treat?

If there is rot in a broken tree, or the roots are affected by some disease, then vitriol or salt can be applied at any time of the year , because the fight against the disease and the prevention of an epidemic of trees comes first.

If there is no urgency, then it is advisable to apply all types of reagents after the end of the autumn rainy season , 1-3 weeks before the onset of frost.

During this time, the reagents will penetrate below the soil level and will impregnate the wood even during frost. In addition, the lack of rain will not wash out the reagent and reduce its effectiveness.

Safety Precautions

Ammonium and potassium nitrates are explosive combustible substances, so they must be used with extreme caution.

Do not smoke while handling. 1-3 months after laying saltpeter in the wood, active processes occur associated with the release of combustible gases, so you can not smoke or make a fire near the stump treated with these reagents.

Copper and iron sulphate in a dry state are safe for human skin, but when working with them, you must use a respirator, goggles and gloves.

After adding water, vitriol crystals will quickly turn into a toxic liquid that can burn the skin. Especially dangerous is the ingress of crystals and drops on the mucous parts of the body.

Salt is safe when dry and takes a long time to dissolve in water. No safety precautions are required when working with coarse salt , but goggles must be used when working with fine salt, as an unexpected gust of wind can blow it into the eye.

To reduce the risk of fire during the burning of the stump and roots, a circular earthen mound ≥50 cm high should be built around the pit. Burning wood should not be left unattended, because it can shoot fairly large sparks that fly 5–10 meters and only go out after a few minutes.

In addition, should always have a fire extinguisher on hand and, preferably, a hose connected to the water supply - this will help to extinguish a fire starting far from the stump.

Do not stand on the lee side of burning wood, because it, impregnated with saltpeter or urea, releases toxic substances when burned.

In addition, it is desirable to obtain permission from the nearest department of the Ministry of Emergency Situations to burn stumps, because otherwise they can issue a large fine. You will find more information on this subject in this article (Incineration).

Do not use other chemical agents, especially those based on glyphosate (Roundup, Typhoon, Santi). They effectively kill wood, but do not decompose in the ground, so they first enter new plants, then with their fruits into the human body.

Related video

In his video, the author shows how to remove stumps on his site using ammonium nitrate:

Conclusion

trees.

Now you know:

  • which preparations are used for chemical treatment;
  • how they affect wood;
  • how to properly apply saltpeter and other reagents to destroy the stump;
  • what additional measures should be taken to completely remove the remains of the tree.

How to get rid of stumps and tree roots on the site: 4 ways

Sooner or later, every owner of the site is faced with the problem of removing stumps. Even if they didn’t exist initially, they will definitely appear over time. Aging and diseases of fruit trees, the need for redevelopment of the territory - there can be a lot of reasons. We will analyze several working methods on how to remove a stump from the site quickly and easily.

All about uprooting stumps yourself

Is it always necessary
4 methods that work
— Manual uprooting
— Burnout
— Chemical destruction
— Mulching

The easiest way to solve the problem of removing large and small stumps is during the development of the site. If the territory has not yet been ennobled, special equipment is ordered. With its help, in just a few hours, they clean the site. The disadvantage of this method is obvious: heavy machinery and destructive mechanical uprooting will leave numerous marks on the site. But if the territory is still going to be ennobled, it's not scary.

It is much more difficult to choose the right solution, how to get rid of a stump in an already developed area. There can be a lot of options, but each of them has certain disadvantages. First of all, you need to understand whether it is really necessary to get rid of a piece of wood. After all, you can benefit from them. For example, an interesting landscape decor is obtained from the rest of the trunk. In order to make it, the core is hollowed out and a fertile substrate is poured into the cavity. The resulting "bed" is used to grow flowers, vegetables or berries. Such a flower bed or garden bed can become the center of an interesting multi-tiered composition. A good option is growing mushrooms. Their spores are inhabited by the remains of wood, where mushroom families germinate very quickly.

It turns out an unusual and useful “decoration”. Honey mushrooms or oyster mushrooms will give several harvests over the summer. At the same time, the mycelium actively destroys wood, because it needs food for growth. In five to six years, mushrooms will completely destroy the remains of the tree. Flowers or vegetables "work" in a similar way, however, they need much more time to destroy.

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If the stump stands where it is planned to set up a flower garden or beds, or somehow interferes with the improvement, you have to think about how to uproot the stump on the site. You can invite specialists with a cutter. A powerful technique will crush the wood, deepening 20-30 cm. This is enough to get rid of the roots. Unfortunately, it is not always possible to use the services of specialists. Then use the methods available for independent use.

1. Manual uprooting

In order not to mess around with the remains of the tree, when felling, you can cut the trunk at ground level. This is done if they do not interfere and it is possible to leave them to rot in the soil. To speed up the process, the cut is chopped with an ax. Sooner or later, the rhizomes will rot, but this will not happen very soon. All the time, while the processes of overheating are going on, it will not be possible to break a garden bed, put up any building, etc. at this place.

When there is no time to wait, choose manual uprooting. This is a very labor intensive method. To begin with, they dig a hole around the hemp, exposing the rhizome. It is important to expose all root processes in the trunk area. You can not remove the soil with a shovel, but wash it off. To do this, put a drain chute in the pit and “wash” the rhizome with a stream of water under strong pressure. The bare root shoots are cut. This must be done very carefully so as not to get hurt. It is extremely inconvenient to work in the pit, the roots are most often mixed up and very hard. But it is imperative to cut them, otherwise, when the hemp is pulled out, the long rhizome will easily destroy the adjacent path, fence or building foundation. A snag with chopped roots is fixed to a winch or any other lifting mechanism and pulled out of the ground. If it is not possible to use mechanical devices, the stump is split, loosened and untwisted fragments, removed from the ground.

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Uprooting takes a lot of time and effort, so not everyone is ready to do it. There are ways to remove the stump without uprooting. They are much easier. Let's analyze the most effective of them.

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2. Use of fire

A very simple but rather dangerous method. It can be used with certain restrictions. First of all, the remains of the tree must be removed from buildings, fences, underground and air communications, power lines. It is impossible to carry out the procedure on peat soils (peat bogs ignite quickly and can smolder for a long time). Putting out an underground fire is very difficult, almost impossible.

Burning is carried out in calm, dry weather. All flammable items are removed to a safe distance and be sure to prepare a supply of water in case the situation gets out of control. Start by drilling two channels inside the hemp. Drill to the maximum possible depth. One is lowered strictly vertically, and the second is placed at an angle to it. In the first there will be a fire, through the second it will receive the air necessary for combustion. In large snags, it is advisable to drill several holes for air. This will speed up the burning.

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A flammable liquid is poured into the central cavity. It is best to take lighter fluid or diesel fuel. Gasoline will burn very quickly, which will not give the desired effect. A cotton wick is lowered inside the hole and lit. The only thing left to do is keep the fire going. Depending on the condition of the wood, it will last from 13 to 16 hours.

You can speed up the process if you remove the stump using the Tsiolkovsky method. In this case, "caramel fuel" is used as fuel. This is a mixture of ammonium nitrate and sugar in a ratio of 7:3. The ingredients are mixed and carefully poured into the drilled hole. You need to know that the mixture gives a very strong flame. In a matter of minutes, the entire snag, including the roots, burns out. Therefore, it is imperative to observe precautionary measures: it is necessary to ignite the fuel from a certain distance; for this, a gasoline “path” is laid to it.

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3.

Chemical destruction

The essence of the method is the decomposition of root residues with the help of chemicals. This is an effective, but slow way to get rid of tree roots. Different preparations are used for destruction, but the method of their application is approximately the same. To begin with, as many deep holes as possible are drilled in the saw cut. This is best done in the fall, two to four weeks before the first frost. The chemical substance will have time to penetrate into the most remote root shoots before the cold weather and will destroy them all winter.

Chemical reagent is poured into the holes. Most often it is carbamide, aka urea. This is a well-known fertilizer that decomposes wood in large quantities. The granules are tightly packed in the cavity, spilled with water, covered with plastic cut and the film is securely fixed. You can plug filled holes with corks or cover with clay. After a few months, the snag will soften, it will be easier to remove it from the ground. Urea, even in large quantities, is relatively safe for the site.

The same cannot be said about potassium or sodium nitrate. They are also used to destroy wood residues. Nitrogen salts are toxic in large doses, so the technique is not suitable for areas where there are new plantations near tree residues. Saltpeters act differently than urea. They dry up the root, which is then easily taken out of the ground. If the soil is not peaty, you can simply burn it, because it is saturated with a substance that stimulates combustion. To destroy a hemp with a diameter of 15-16 cm, it is necessary to lay 2,000 g of any reagent.

Salt will help solve the problem of how to remove stumps from freshly cut trees. Tree juices will quickly spread it throughout the rhizome, which the salt will “dry out” in a year and a half. The removal procedure is the same as described above. You need to know that a high concentration of salt will not allow plants to develop in this place for several years.

Copper or iron sulphate can also be used as a chemical agent. Each of these preparations is a highly effective insecticide and fungicide, toxic in large doses. Vitriol is used for chemical uprooting of diseased stumps. No other way can prevent the infection of nearby plantings.

Herbicides work quickly and effectively. They process only a fresh cut, pour the roots with a solution. Autumn processing allows you to remove the rhizomes from the ground in the spring without any problems. But the soil turns out to be contaminated with herbicides, nothing will grow here for several years.

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4. Mulching

The essence of the technique is that the mulch layer blocks the access of air to the saw cut. Without oxygen, the roots slowly die. True, it takes a lot of time. Mulching is more suitable for destroying small stumps. For example, it will be a good solution for getting rid of cherry or plum roots.

The trunk is cut at ground level or slightly above. The saw cut is covered with a dense layer of mulch 20-25 cm high. It is desirable to cover the entire near-trunk circle. Any organic matter is suitable as mulch: chopped grass, leaves, plant debris. The rhizomes will rot for a long time, for several years. All this time, organic matter will have to be added, as its layer is thinning.

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There are many ways to uproot trees. The optimal one is chosen taking into account the prevailing conditions.


Learn more