How far to plant a tree from house

Tree Placement on Home Grounds

Christopher J. Starbuck

Department of Horticulture

Trees properly selected and placed can add more in livability and value to the home than any other single landscape feature. They grow continually and are ever-changing. You will never tire of looking at them.

Trees around homes provide beauty, but their more practical function is to fulfill needs and solve problems in the home landscape.

Trees solve landscape problems by providing framing and background. Trees also improve the appearances of our homes. They can help to absorb noise, freshen the atmosphere, serve as windbreaks, provide privacy, protect, shade, shelter and divide grounds into several use areas.

Home landscapes are not, and should not be, identical. Therefore, the same kind of tree cannot be used for the same purpose on every lot. To get the most from your trees, follow these guidelines:

  • Determine where trees will serve the greatest benefit.
  • Select trees that fit locations and fulfill needs best.
  • Properly plant, care for and maintain trees.

Functions of trees


Trees are most frequently planted for shade. The most important shade tree on home grounds is usually located near the southwest corner of the house. If placed properly, it will shade the house during the latter part of the afternoon in summer. Trees provide better shade than artificial structures. Air passing through the branches is cooled by transpiration from the leaves.

Depending on the mature size of the tree, the distance it is set from the house will control the amount of shade given in a certain area. A tree 50 feet high with a 30-foot spread will cast a shadow equal to the tree height at 3 to 4 p.m. in midsummer. But in winter, the shadow at the same time of day will be 120 feet long. To get the most useful shade on the house at a practical distance, place the tree 15 to 20 feet from the house. Small trees may be planted closer than 15 feet, but large trees should be planted 20 feet or more away from the house.

If the house faces south, or southeast, maximum shade on the front will come from a tree that is placed to the southwest, or left front. If the house faces southwest, a tree for maximum shade would have to be placed centrally and south of the house (see Figure 1). Make a diagram of your house and sketch trees with their shade patterns to determine the best locations. Do not plant large evergreens directly south of a building, as doing so greatly reduces solar gain in winter.

Figure 1
Shade patterns of a 20-foot tree during summer.

Front location
If the house is situated so that trees must be planted in the front for maximum shade, select trees that will be high branching so that the outdoor areas can be seen below the branches. This will also permit good air movement. The main shade trees should be deciduous, so that a maximum amount of sunlight can reach the house in winter.

Locating small trees
Medium and small trees tend to be more in scale with modern low homes and therefore are more in demand. Medium-sized trees can be planted 15 feet from the house and generally 35 or more feet apart. Small trees, such as the flowering dogwood, may be planted as close as 6 feet from the house and about 20 feet apart. Where large trees cannot be used, several small trees may be grouped to furnish needed shade.

Shade movement
Determine from sketches and observation where the tree should be for maximum summer shade. Then check the shade movement of this spot. Use a long stake or board and fix it at the selected point. Watch the shadows to determine if your plans are right. If time permits, observe the shade pattern over several seasons.

Remember that the shade of the house follows the same pattern as the shade of the trees, and areas such as patios may receive a portion of their shade from the house and not always need shade from trees.

Figure 2 shows how the angle and position of the sun change with the seasons. Remember that the angle of the sun changes from about 26 degrees above the horizon on December 21, when it is lowest in the sky, to about 73 degrees above the horizon on June 21, when it is highest in the sky.

In winter the sun moves from southeast to southwest; in summer it moves northeast to northwest.

Figure 2
The angle of the sun during all seasons influences shade patterns for positioning trees.


Trees planted for shade should also serve other functions. One of these might be framing. When a house is properly framed, it appears longer and more settled to the site. On small properties there may be room for only one additional large tree to serve this function, while on large lots or on rural sites, two or many trees may be used. At least two trees should be used if possible.

Tree size
Try to select trees that will be in proportion to the house. A large, two-story house framed with small trees will appear even larger. A low house framed with tall, broad trees will appear smaller than it is. At all times, select plants and trees that are in scale with the lot as well as the house. If there is not enough space for large trees, group small trees; where width is a problem, try a group of columnar trees.

Trees for framing are usually planted on a more or less diagonal line outward from the front corners of the house. This gives more apparent depth to the lot than when trees are planted directly out to the sides on a continuation of the front baseline of the house. The effect is also better when the trees are not planted directly opposite one another and are not of the same type.

Sometimes it is not practical to place trees at the exact spot for best framing. If locations more directly in the lawn area must be used, select trees that can be developed with high branching. Never plant a tree so that it will divide any view into two equal parts or obscure the view of the house from the street.


A background planting of trees should be developed so that when the house is viewed from the front, the treetops can be seen above the roof line. This softens the roof line and makes the house easier to see.

Tree types
When there is space for more than one background tree, do not use the same types of trees. One tree should be used that develops taller than the others. An irregular tree line above the roof line is most desirable. Where possible, trees with relatively fine-textured leaves, such as birch or honeylocust, will provide the most pleasing backgrounds. Medium to fine textures in leaves and branches give the illusion of more depth to limited areas.

If space limitations permit use of only one or two trees that must be centrally located, select trees with tall trunks so that pleasant views will not be hidden.

Placement of trees for background will often be influenced by other needs. If the back of the house faces west or southwest, these trees may be important for shade. In this situation, the trees may be needed fairly close to the house. In other places, these trees may be needed to block undesirable views. Then it may be necessary to place them near the property line. Background trees should serve a dual function as much as possible.


Small trees with attractive flowers, berries, leaves or bark are often helpful to provide accent and complete the picture. Except on very large properties, an accent tree should be a small one, although any tree provides some accent in the landscape. Small trees may also be used on large properties but should be grouped for a more striking effect.

Specimen trees for accent must be used sparingly. Too many of them will add confusion to the landscape. If planted out from and to one side of the front entrance, a specimen plant can focus attention on the front door.

The small specimen tree can also be useful as a part of entrance plantings when combined with shrubs and groundcovers at a driveway entrance.

In shrub borders of the backyard, accent trees will provide a focal point for different areas. Place them with other features, such as pools or benches, that may terminate a line of sight from the house. In the flower or shrub border, locate them where curves are sharp. At this point, the eye tends to slow as it follows the border and is attracted to the accent. On a small lot, one specimen for accent in the backyard is usually sufficient. On large lots, several can be used, but avoid confusion. When accent trees are included in a border, the mature height of the tree should be approximately 11/2 times as high as the bed is wide. Therefore, a bed 10 feet wide should contain a tree that gets more than 15 feet high.

Because most people use specimen plants for their own enjoyment and to satisfy personal preferences, the positioning should also take into consideration the view from the house. Whenever a specimen is used, place it so it can be seen from inside the house. It should be placed so it will terminate a major line of sight from windows of rooms most used in the house. Trees with decorative bark or berries in winter should especially be used in these positions.


The view of unsightly areas needs to be blocked from the home. Tree screens can provide needed privacy and at the same time may establish a sound barrier or windbreak. Trees provide more rapid screening than many shrubs. If a year-round screen is desired, evergreens should be used.

Trees do not have to be in a straight line to develop a screen. Often a grouping of trees will provide needed screening without giving a stiff appearance.

Plan the entire planting at one time even though other factors may make it necessary to plant over several seasons. Unless the property is large, tree screens will usually have to be composed of small or medium-sized trees. If space is very limited, columnar trees may be used to make an effective screen with a minimum of width. A screen of trees gives more interest and variety than a fence or other artificial screens. Different types of trees may be blended together to avoid monotony in screening.

Coniferous evergreens are desirable for a year-round screen. Their distinctive shape and texture make them dominant in plantings. For this reason they should be used sparingly.

Other considerations

Always consider the ultimate size of the tree before planting. Failure to do so leads to excessive shading, increased pruning requirements and root problems.

  • Do not plant trees near underground pipelines, septic tanks, walks or drives or under overhead wires. Check with your local utility companies for the location of buried utility lines
  • Do not plant a tree where it will overhang the house, in front of the front door or where it will obstruct a desirable view from inside the house.
  • Do not plant a large tree closer than 5 feet from a sidewalk; it will eventually push up the concrete.
  • Do not plant trees closer together than half their total spread at maturity.
  • Do not plant trees closer than 25 feet from the corner of a block so that they will not interfere with motorists' vision at intersections.
  • Do not plant trees directly on property lines.
  • Do not plant trees that give dense shade where you want to grow grass.

Planning with existing trees

When homes are built in a naturalistic setting on a wooded lot, there is often reluctance to remove any of the trees. Failure to select carefully at the time of construction may result in many problems later.

Remove any trees that are diseased, injured or deformed. If trees overhang the house, they present a safety threat and should be removed or pruned. If gardens are desired and the shade is too dense, remove enough trees in the selected gardening site to let in sufficient light. Remember that existing trees grow and will need to be pruned later to keep this space open.

Clean out brush and trim up the trunks of the trees in the front area so that the house can be viewed from the street by looking between the trunks of the trees. Along property lines, shrubs should be allowed to remain or added to develop privacy.

A lot may not have enough trees for a naturalistic effect. Where only a few exist, the first step should again be to remove misshapen, diseased, damaged or poor trees. From those remaining, select the best to fulfill needs such as shade, framing or background.

Selecting the tree

After the need for a tree at a given location has been established, the next step will be to determine what tree or trees would best satisfy the needs. Several characteristics of trees must be considered.


Trees for use in the landscape are usually classified as small, medium and large. Size categories may overlap depending on culture and climatic conditions.

  • Small trees
    Those that rarely reach a height of more than 25 feet.
  • Medium trees
    Those that mature at about 40 feet.
  • Large trees
    Those that mature at heights greater than 40 feet. Some may reach heights of 75 to 100 feet.

In the landscape, large trees are in scale with tall houses but will make low houses seem smaller. Small and medium trees fit well with low houses but will make a tall house appear even taller.


The natural shape of a tree will influence its appropriateness to many landscape uses. Choose a form that will suit your needs and then find types or varieties with these forms.

Erect, columnar fastigiate
Trees with upright, slender growth that produces a towering effect. These trees are useful as accents in mass plantings and will accent vertical lines of buildings. They are useful for large screens and windbreaks where land space is limited.

Some trees of this type are the pyramidal hybrid oak, columnar red maple, columnar European hornbeam and columnar junipers.

Trees with a broad, natural growth and horizontal branching habit. They often form flat tops. They are useful for breaking vertical lines in buildings. Examples of trees with this growth are Winter King hawthorn, golden rain, dogwood, flowering cherry and mimosa.

Trees with a rather indistinct outline and a loose, open structure. Their value in the landscape is a tracery against the sky and light shadow cast on the ground. Large trees in this group make good trees for background planning. Typical examples are honeylocust and mature ginkgo.

Trees with curving or rounded crowns. They are often close-branched and provide dense shade. Trees of this type are dominant and produce a dense textural effect. Examples of this type are the Norway maple, catalpa and saucer magnolia.

Trees with a single stem, from which branches grow at right angles and appear to be in layers. In outline the tree has a cone-shaped effect. The form is very dominating and therefore these trees are best used as specimens or grouped in mass plantings. Sweet gum, pin oak, American holly and spruce species are examples of trees with this type of growth.

Trees with a general egg-shaped appearance. Top of the growth comes to a broad point which may be rounded. The overall crown is not as broad as the round-headed shape. Many trees of this type provide dense shade and become dominant landscape trees. Examples are sugar maple and horse chestnut.

Umbrageous (umbrella-shape)
Trees with a rounded top, but open-headed growth to form a canopy that suggests an umbrella. New disease-resistant selections of American elms are an example of trees with this type of growth. Hackberries and zelkova also have this growth habit. They are especially useful in areas where shade is needed but where low-branching trees would obstruct views. This type of growth allows good light penetration beneath the trees.

Trees with branches that hang freely toward the ground from the trunk or other branches. The form is rather unnatural and trees of this type should be used only in flat areas where the eye is directed downward toward some interesting feature such as a pool. Their use should be limited to that of an accent plant. Very popular, although easily broken in storms, is the weeping willow. Weeping forms of many trees have been developed such as the weeping birch, weeping beech and weeping cherry.


In leaves, stems and twigs, trees possess definite textural qualities. These qualities should be related to surrounding items and plants.

Trees with coarse leaves, large branches and dense growth are dominant. Large trees of this type dwarf things around them. They are best suited to large areas and to large homes and buildings. Small trees of this type make striking accents. Coarse textures give a feeling of closeness. This type of tree is most useful as a noise barrier.

A tree with medium texture can relieve the heaviness of many buildings and give a greater feeling of space. Trees of this type allow light penetration and air movement and still provide good shade and screening.

Fine-textured or filamentous trees are more open and light penetrates them well. Twigs, foliage and branches are usually small and slender. The feathery foliage is valuable for small areas since it helps to produce a feeling of space. Large plants of this type help to give a greater feeling of depth to small areas when used behind plants of coarse texture.

Other characteristics to consider

  • Do not select trees to be put close to the house that are rapid-growing but short-lived and prone to breakage from ice, snow or wind.
  • Select trees with few or no insect or disease problems. If trees are chosen with known problems, be prepared to give adequate control measures.
  • Choose trees that are hardy for the area.
  • Choose trees that are in scale with house and site.
  • Avoid trees with messy fruit, seed pods and frequent shedding of twigs and small branches.
  • Select trees suited to environmental conditions of the area such as summer heat, air pollution, drainage and soil.
Original author

Ray R. Rothenberger, Department of Horticulture

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How Close to a House Should You Plant a Tree

Trees can work wonders in your front yard. They can beautify your home’s landscape, add to its curb appeal, and even increase the home’s property value. You may be considering planting a tree or two for these very reasons. But before you grab the shovel and start digging, there are some things you should know.

Luckily, you’ve come to the right place. With more than three decades of experience in residential and commercial tree care, Mr. Tree will tell you exactly where to get started. The first thing is exactly how close you should plant a tree to your home.

There are several factors to consider when choosing a location for your tree. For instance, certain tree types are more amenable to being planted close to the home than others. If you’re looking to plant a tree to increase your home’s property value, shade trees are an excellent choice. A healthy, mature shade tree can add up to $1500 to your home’s property value. But shade trees are great investments for another reason as well. Well-placed shade trees that effectively block sunlight from your home can significantly lower your home’s air conditioning bills. These trees are essentially able to pay for themselves over time.

In fact, according to the Department of Energy, a well-landscaped home can produce sufficient energy savings to pay for itself in less than eight years. Deciduous trees planted to the south of your home can block the majority of the solar heat during the summer, but allow the sun’s rays in during the winter.

Likewise, certain tree types serve as windbreaks, preventing signs of wear and tear on your home while also reducing your heating costs. Evergreen trees, for instance, provide year-round shade, but also serve as a windbreak when planted to the north and northwest of your home. A South Dakota study showed that windbreaks planted to the north, west, and east of houses reduce fuel consumption by an average of 40 percent.

So now that you know what type of trees can be planted close to your home, it’s time to decide just where to put them.

You should take into account the tree’s size at maturity when deciding where to plant a tree in your yard. A good rule of thumb is to divide the mature spread of the tree in half. This is the minimum distance that the tree should be planted from your home.

The height of a tree can also help you determine how far away from your house the tree should be planted. Large trees, ones that grow to heights of 70 feet or more, should be planted at least 20 feet from your home. Medium-sized trees, those that grow up to 70 feet tall, should be planted at least 15 feet from your home. Finally, small trees that do not grow larger than 30 feet should be planted at least eight to ten feet from your home.

In addition to considering the height of a tree and its spread, you’ll also want to consider a tree’s root system. Overgrown roots can wreak havoc on a home’s foundation and also disrupt underground pipes. It’s best, therefore, to avoid planting trees with an aggressive root system too close to your home.

A tree’s roots can spread up to three times the width of its crown. Therefore, it’s important to place large trees an adequate distance away from your home so you don’t run the risk of the roots encroaching on your home’s foundation and causing structural damage.

In fact, there are certain types of trees to avoid because of their root systems. These include willow trees, poplars, cottonwoods, aspens, silver maples, Norway maples, and American elm trees, among others.

Smaller trees with shallow roots, however, pose little risk to your home. Japanese maple trees, for instance, are safe to plant relatively close to your house. Some small fruit trees and ornamental trees are generally safe as well.

In addition to considering the potential risks of planting a tree close to your home, you’ll also want to think about the aesthetic of the trees that you are planting. After all, a tree should enhance a home’s landscaping and ideally, add to your home’s property value. Generally speaking, large trees work well with larger homes, such as two-story houses. However, large trees will often make a small house appear even smaller. Therefore, it’s a good idea to opt for small or medium-sized trees if you have a smaller home.

Smaller trees tend to be versatile and also work well when planted in front of larger houses, since they can make such a house appear even larger. You’ll definitely want to factor in both the size of your yard and home when deciding what type of tree to plant close to your home.

Deciding where to plant a tree is only the first step in the process. Once a tree is planted close to a home, you’ll want to ensure the structural integrity of the tree by having it regularly serviced. Trees that are damaged or weak could potentially topple over. Therefore, it’s important that you contact a certified arborist to assess the health of your tree on a frequent basis.

If you notice a tree losing branches or if cracks and signs of rotting emerge, you should contact an expert immediately to determine if the tree needs to be removed. Regular upkeep and preventative care are essential to maintaining your tree’s health.

When in doubt, it’s best to consult with your expert arborists at Mr. Tree. We can provide advice as to what trees to plant in your yard and the best location for them.

While there are some general rules to follow, we can help you customize your yard landscaping to your unique tastes and needs. So give us a call and we’d be more than happy to help you plant a tree.

How far from the house to plant trees - landscape design rules

Do you place trees around the new house? Take care of the safe landing distance to the foundation. Overgrown roots greatly dry out the soil, weakening and unevenly upsetting the supporting structure of the building. In 10 years, they are able to completely destroy it.

In addition, seedlings need a lot of space for normal growth. When planted close to the house, they can deviate and grow at an angle to the side, following the light source. At the same time, spreading branches, constantly rubbing against the walls and roof, will damage the building coating and force the gutters to be cleaned of dry branches and fallen leaves at least 2-3 times a year.

Landscaping project
by Sad-dizain


The width of the root system of any tree is greater than the diameter of the crown. However, the roots may well extend 1.5 to 3 times the height of the tree.

There is no single approach to calculate the correct distance between trees and a residential building. Therefore, the main thing is to eliminate as many risks as possible that they create for the inhabitants of the house. A closely growing tree can cause cracks and collapse of the foundation, unnecessary shade, destruction of walls when the trunk falls from a hurricane wind.

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Legal norms

Trees and bushes are planted in cities and towns according to SNiP 2.07.01-89. According to section 4 of these rules, from the external walls of buildings and structures (including public buildings and multi-storey buildings) to the trunk of a tree should be at least 5 m, a bush - at least 1.5 m. The given norms apply to trees with a crown diameter of not over 5 m and should be increased for trees with larger crown diameters.

Away from utilities

The tree should be removed 2 m away from the utilities entering the house - water lines, sewer and gas pipelines, power cables, irrigation system pipes. At the same time, you need to carefully monitor fast-growing species (walnut, larch, poplar, birch). Their root system can grow by 8–10 m in a few years.

The danger of a house tree lies in the thin fibrous roots that penetrate into the pipes through existing cracks and leaking joints. The result is a clogged or completely destroyed highway

Distance to neighbors

According to SNiP 30-02-97 (Order of the Ministry of Regional Development No. 849 dated 12/30/2010), residential buildings must be located at least 3 m from the border of the site. At the same time, trees are allowed to be planted from it at least:

  • 1m - shrubs
  • 2 m - medium height (cherry, cherry plum, apple, plum, hazel).
  • 4 m - tall (pine, poplar, oak, birch).

Thus, between the neighbor's house and the trunk of any of your trees, there must be at least 5 m.

Every case is different!

If a private house is built on hard ground, such as rock, any tree suitable for that type of ground can be planted close to it. The main thing is to make sure that:

  • The branches and crown do not obscure the windows from the south.
  • The sapling was not in the shade of the northern walls (unless it is a shade-loving plant).
  • The passage of the fire engine was not obstructed.

If the house is on a strip foundation and on sufficiently moist soil (loamy, clayey), it is not worth planting trees nearby. In sloping terrain, an additional 1 m retreats from the base of terraces and slopes to a tree, and 3 m from retaining walls. changes in humidity in the area

Landscaping project
plot from Sad-dizain


Don't be afraid to build a big garden

Remember, trees add value to a home. Feel free to plant them. Just choose the right varieties and place in suitable conditions for them. If in doubt as to whether a tree is safe for you and your neighbor's property in a particular situation, consult with a landscape designer.

At what distance from the house is it safe to plant trees, bushes and make flower beds

Landscaping the local area is not as simple as it might seem at first glance. And it's not just about creating a beautiful landscape design and keeping the garden in the same style. The construction and engineering part is also of great importance. We study the nuances.

Difficulties in planting trees and shrubs, arranging flower beds can arise not only with the design project, but also with compliance with fire, environmental, building codes described in laws and codes of practice. Moreover, regulatory documents can be issued both at the state level (mandatory for everyone), and at the level of a single garden partnership or cooperative. Such "special" rules will have to be adhered to by the participants of these same partnerships.

What kind of problems can you call on your head if you deviate from the rules and plant ornamental plants and an orchard "as God puts on your soul"?

  • If planted too close to the house, tree roots can damage the foundation. In addition, the soil overdried by the roots settles unevenly, which leads to a weakening of the supporting structure of the building.
  • Large, old or diseased trees break easily and can fall on the roof of a building or fence, damage windows or a car parked under a canopy in strong wind loads.
  • Trees planted next to water utilities can damage pipes and disrupt water supply and runoff.
  • Regular watering of moisture-loving plants leads to erosion of the soil and damage to the foundation - in the literal sense, "water wears away the stone."
  • Planting a tree near the house increases the risk of fires, as flammable trees (spruce, pine, poplar) are able to quickly spread the flame when ignited.
  • Flying leaves and dead branches can clog gutters and drainage channels.
  • The branches of trees and shrubs that touch the roof or walls of the house are a great way to visit you for harmful insects and even rodents.
  • Overgrown green spaces without timely pruning can simply block the access of sunlight to the room.

How to properly plant trees and shrubs near the house

According to the SNiP, which regulates the planning and development of cities and towns, when planting fruit and ornamental trees near a private residential building, you need to focus on the size of the crown of a particular crop. Trees with a crown diameter of up to 5 m should be planted, keeping a distance of at least 5 m from the outer wall of the house to the trunk. For larger trees, the distance should be increased.

Trees should be planted at a distance of at least 2 m from the utilities entering the house (water supply, sewerage, gas pipe) and electrical cables. This will help prevent root damage to underground networks.

The photo shows an example of not the most successful neighborhood: moisture-loving hydrangea requires frequent watering, which is harmful to the foundation

equal to or lower than the height of the window opening of the first floor.

Choose drought-resistant or low-irrigation crops that will need rainfall moisture to grow and thrive. Frequent watering of plants growing near the house can provoke problems such as flooding the foundation, the appearance of mold on the walls of the house.

When planning plantings on the site, do not forget that the distance must also be maintained in relation to the neighboring fence: shrubs can be planted 1 m from the border of the site, for trees the distance should be at least 2 m (medium-sized species) or 4 m (large species ).

Which trees should not be planted on the plot

If you suddenly want to plant a poplar, pine, birch or oak next to your house, we recommend that you carefully weigh the pros and cons. These forest trees can touch the gardener only at a young age, and when they reach "adult" size, they will become a big problem.

Strong and branched oak roots can easily destroy the foundation of a house or other building. Linden and poplar can become a source of allergies in your household, and a tall pine with its superficial root system is a danger to buildings - a strong gust of wind can easily knock it onto the roof of a house. At the same time, a pine (and also a birch) actively draws water from the soil, and by breaking a garden or flower bed next to it, you will doom vegetables and flowers to an eternal lack of moisture. In addition, coniferous trees also have strong fast-growing roots that can violate the integrity of the foundation, concrete structures, and tiling. So planting forest trees on the site is not the right choice.

Before you start repairing a house, you should first get rid of the old trees next to it

If you got an old dacha, the owners of which made this unfortunate mistake many years ago, and now the question is how to get rid of a huge spruce near the house or from an old linden that occupied half the site - look for clues in our article.

Among fruit trees, there are also some that carry a certain risk. So, despite the temptation to have in your garden a source of a healthy and nutritious product - walnuts, it is better not to plant this tree in a small area, especially near the house. Its powerful roots can also become a threat to the foundation, and a huge crown will create a shadow under which neither flowers nor vegetables will grow.

Shrubs to be careful with

Many ornamental flowering shrubs exude a rich aroma that can be enjoyed occasionally passing by, but it is dangerous to stay near them for a long time - it is fraught with migraines and poor health. For this reason, it is not recommended to plant mock orange (jasmine), bird cherry, and acacia under the windows.

Ornamental crops such as boxwood and juniper are often planted in the immediate vicinity of the house or in the garden, and in general this is not prohibited. But there is one nuance that experienced gardeners are called to remember: both of these crops are dangerous for fruit trees and berry growers.

The harmful moth butterfly often settles on boxwood, the caterpillars of which have excellent appetite and are able to eat a whole bush in a week. It is difficult to deal with it (strong pesticides help to achieve results), and if fruit trees are infected, you can be left without a crop at all.

Juniper is also a common cause of suffering for fruit trees. The fact is that this coniferous culture is susceptible to rust disease and can become a source of infection for the entire garden. To win back the harvest of apples, pears, plums, raspberries and blackberries, you will have to spend a lot of hours and nerve cells.

Some ornamental plants (eg rhododendron, euonymus, clematis) are poisonous and pose a danger not to the foundation and structures of the house, but to its inhabitants. In the group of undesirable for planting near the house, we will also include crops with thorny stems (rose hips, acacia, barberry).

How far from home can flowers be planted

The main rule when planting decorative perennials near the house: do not plant flowers under the very foundation. If you leave a distance of about 1 m from the supporting structure of the house, you will not be afraid of problems with washing, cracks, mold on the foundation and walls.

In addition, professional builders usually recommend making a blind area around the house, which means that in this case the required distance from the flower bed to the foundation will be automatically observed. If drainage pipes are laid around the perimeter, then another 50 cm should be retreated from them. For reliability, it is sometimes advised to arrange a flower bed with a slope from the house.

When planning flower beds, it is necessary to take into account the cardinal points where the walls "look". So, climbing crops (ivy, climbing rose or girlish grapes) can be planted near the southern wall, which are not afraid of the active summer sun. Even if such a liana braids a wall, troubles like mold and rotting of wooden structures are unlikely to happen, because. the southern wall warms up well and dries out.

You should be careful with creepers: be sure to control the development of vines and set the direction of growth with pruning, otherwise they can damage the finish or even get under the ridge and "raise" the roof.

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