How grow orange tree


How to Grow and Care for Orange Trees

When you mention citrus, most people probably picture an orange. The orange tree is one of the most recognized citrus trees featuring a full, leafy canopy and fragrant flower display. Best of all is the delicious fruit produced during the growing season. A full size trees can grow to 32 feet tall, with dwarf varieties reaching about 12 feet in height. Orange trees can be kept even smaller when planted in containers, which makes them great for indoor gardening as well.

Orange trees are notable for white blooms that appear in summer followed by their famous fruit. Although the fruit is delicious, the plan, itself, is known to be toxic to pets.  

 Common Name  Orange tree
 Botanical Name  Citrus sinensis
 Family  Citrus
 Plant Type  Tree, Fruit
 Size  30 ft. tall (full size), 12 ft. tall (dwarf), 30 ft. wide (full size), 12 ft. wide (dwarf)
 Sun Exposure  Full
 Soil Type  Loamy, Well-drained
 Soil pH  Acidic, Neutral
 Bloom Time  Summer
 Flower Color  White
 Hardiness Zones  9-11 (USDA)
 Native Area  Asia
 Toxicity  Toxic to pets

How to Plant Orange Trees

Orange trees are a popular fruit tree to grow and easy to care for when provided with the right conditions. 

When to Plant

These trees can be planted at any time of year in warm climates, like southern Florida where they represent a major food crop. For cooler climates with significant seasonal variations, they grow better when planted in spring or summer which allows them to acclimate before cooler weather arrives.  

Selecting a Planting Site

Orange trees require plenty of sunshine and warmth; key factors for producing sweeter fruit. They are susceptible to wind damage so some protection is needed. Since these trees can grow fairly large, depending on variety, space them about 20 feet apart. For dwarf varieties, 10 feet should be sufficient.

Orange Tree Plant Care 

Light

Orange trees require plenty of sunshine and warmth to produce the best tasting fruits, so choose a spot that receives full sun for 8 hours a day. For dwarf varieties grown indoors, place them in a sunny window. 

Soil

Orange trees thrive in loamy, rich, well-draining soil. It is important that excess water drains away, as orange trees cannot tolerate heavy, wet soil. When planting these trees, you can mix in potting soil for additional nutrients. Slightly acidic to neutral soil pH levels from 6.0 to 7.0 work best.

Water

Orange trees need consistent watering but don't tolerate soggy soil. Drainage can be improved by building up a small mound at the bottom of the planting hole. Established orange trees do best with about 1 inch of water a week. How often you water will depend on the amount of rainfall you receive. 

Temperature and Humidity

Orange trees thrive in subtropical regions with warm temperatures and moderate humidity levels. They can be grown outdoors in USDA hardiness zones 9 to 11 and begin to go dormant when temperatures dip below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

Fertilizer

When grown in cooler areas, orange trees need fertilizer every month or two during the growing season. In warmer zones, such as 10 and 11, fertilizing year round encourages continual growth and fruit production. 

For young trees, start with a small amount of fertilizer, about half-strength. Once the tree matures, give it full strength fertilizer, spread out around the tree all the way to the drip line. It is best to use a well-balanced fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, or one specifically designed for citrus trees.  

Pollination

Orange trees are self-fertile and do not require another orange tree to produce fruits. However, including more than one orange tree in your garden will attract more pollinators which can increase fruit production.  

Types of Orange Trees

  • Navel Orange: Navel oranges are a common varieties often found in grocery stores. They are easily identifiable for their navel-like marking at the bottom of each fruit. This variety is sweet, seedless, and enjoyed both for its juice and as a snacking fruit. 
  • Blood Orange: Known for their unique red coloring and sweet flavor, these oranges are a popular ingredient in prepared dishes and good for snacking.
  • Valencia Orange: Another common variety, Valencia oranges contain a high juice content ideal for juicing. They do have seeds.

Harvesting Oranges

Harvesting oranges is easy and fun. Once the oranges are bright and consistent in color, firm with a slight give, and fragrant they are ripe and ready to eat. Gently pull them from the branch, or use snips to cut the fruit from its stem. Just be sure it is ready, as oranges do not ripen after they are picked. Store oranges in the refrigerator. They should last a few weeks. 

How to Grow Orange Trees in Pots

Dwarf orange trees are popular fruit trees to keep in pots. This is a great option if you live in climates colder than those recommended for growing citrus. A potted tree can be brought indoors before cold temperatures hit. Choose a deep pot with plenty of good drainage holes to accommodate the root system.

Pruning

Pruning following fruit harvest will benefit the following season's crop. In the cooler regions of their growing zones, orange trees are best pruned in the fall after fruiting and before cold temperatures arrive. In warmer regions where temperatures are consistent year-round, pruning can be done almost anytime, but is most effective before new growth begins in spring.  

Pruning for shape is optional but not necessary. It is important to prune away damaged or dead branches and any branches that cross each other. This keeps the tree healthy and provides good airflow and light. For young trees, remove branches that are less than a foot above the ground. 

Propagating Orange Trees

Orange trees can be propagated through cuttings. This is best done in the late spring or early summer while the tree is producing new growth. To do this, you need a sharp pair of snips, a pot with rich, well-draining soil, rooting hormone, and a plastic bag. Then follow these instructions: 

  1. Select a branch tip that is around 6 inches long with healthy leaves. Cut the branch below a leaf node at a 45-degree angle. 
  2. Remove leaves on the lower half of the cutting. Remove any blossoms or developing fruit. 
  3. Score the bark with a clean knife near the cut end of the cutting to encourage root growth. 
  4. Dip the cut end into rooting hormone. Shake away access powder. 
  5. Moisten the soil, then poke a hole in the center to plant the cutting. 
  6. Plant the cutting in the hole and firmly press the soil around it. 
  7. Place the plastic bag over the cutting to keep the humidity levels up. Place the pot in a warm area that receives bright, indirect light.  
  8. Allow the bag to breathe daily and check the soil moisture. Keep it moist, but not wet. 
  9. Remove the bag after a week or so and allow the cutting to acclimate to average humidity levels. Keep the soil moist. 
  10.  After roots form, move the cutting outdoors to a partially shaded, protected area. This may take several months. Once outside, slowly expose the cutting to more and more sun until it can be planted in direct sunshine.

How to Grow Orange Trees From Seed

Orange trees can be started from seed, though it is important to note that seeds may not produce trees with the same characteristics as their parent plant. If you wish to start a tree from seed, you will need a bowl of water, a tray or small pot with rich potting soil, and a plastic bag. Then follow these instructions: 

  1. Before planting the seeds, soak them in a bowl of water for at least 24 hours. Dispose of seeds that float, only planting those that stay below the water. 
  2. Plant the soaked seeds in the rich potting soil about 1 inch deep. 
  3. Place the pots in a warm area and keep the soil moist. Place the plastic bag over the pot to keep the humidity levels up. Allow the bag to breathe daily, checking the soil moisture. 
  4. Once the seeds germinate, remove the bag.
  5. Place the seedlings in an area that receives bright light. Grow lights may be needed. 
  6. Repot each seedling into its own container and keep them in bright light. 

Potting and Repotting Orange Trees

Orange trees need to be repotted about every 2 to 4 years, depending on your tree. Check for signs that the tree has outgrown the container, such as stunted growth or roots coming out of the drainage holes. Repotting is best done in the spring before new growth appears.  

To repot your tree, tip the container onto its side. Tap the outside of the pot to loosen the roots, then grasp the trunk close to the soil and gently slide it out. Place the tree into a container that is several inches larger than the previous one and fill it in with new, rich soil. Press the soil around the tree and give it water. 

Overwintering

When orange trees are grown in their appropriate growing zones, not much is needed to overwinter. Simply remove any leftover fruit and cut back on watering. If there is a threat of frost, you may wish to insulate the tree with frost cloths. For trees grown in areas outside their growing zones, you will need to move the tree indoors before heavy frosts begin.

Common Pests and Plant Diseases

Like many fruit-bearing plants, orange trees are prone to specific pests and diseases. Pests that commonly attack orange trees include aphids, scale, and spider mites. Different fungal and bacterial diseases can affect the trunk, leaves, and fruit. These include things like citrus canker, melanose, and root rot. 

Article Sources

The Spruce uses only high-quality sources, including peer-reviewed studies, to support the facts within our articles. Read our editorial process to learn more about how we fact-check and keep our content accurate, reliable, and trustworthy.

  1. Orange. (n.d.). ASPCA. Retrieved from https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control/toxic-and-non-toxic-plants/orange

  2. https://sonomamg.ucanr.edu/Food_Gardening/Additional_KG_Articles/Planting_Bare-root_Fruit_Trees/

How to Grow an Orange Tree

For orange lovers who wish to enjoy those golden orbs of fruity sunshine, learning how to grow an orange tree can be a fun experience that also can save and possibly make you lots of money.

Orange trees are relatively low-maintenance, making them the perfect starter fruit tree for any novice grower. In fact, they are the most cultivated fruit tree on the planet.

This guide will teach you about the different types of oranges, the best time to plant them, different ways to grow orange trees, and tips for growing perfect oranges.

How to Grow an Orange Tree: Two Popular Types of Oranges

Before jumping into how to grow an orange tree, let’s start by taking a look at the different types of oranges you can grow. Now, I’m not going to mention every type of orange on the planet since there are over 600, but I will cover two very popular varieties here.

Navel Orange

Navel oranges are sweet, slightly bitter, and perhaps the most common type of oranges you’ll find sold at grocery stores and farmer’s markets. These oranges are instantly recognizable thanks to their signature “navel,” like openings on the bottom of the fruit that look like a belly button.

And because of their sweetness and lack of seeds, Navel oranges are

a favorite for snacking, adding to desserts and salads. They are also great for juicing, so long as you drink the juice immediately. A lot of folks also like to use the skins to make orange zest for baking. These oranges are usually in season from November to June.

Valencia Orange

If you have your heart set on fresh-squeezed orange juice, then Valencia oranges are what you should grow. This orange variety has thin skins and tons of juice, meaning you get the most bang for your buck when it comes to juicing. They are also great for snacking. However, they do contain a few more seeds than other varieties. They are mostly grown in California between the months of March and July.

How to Grow an Orange Tree: Where Can Orange Trees Grow?

Most orange trees can be grown in USDA Hardiness Zones 9-11. And for the continental U.S., the range ends at zone 10, mainly the southernmost parts of Florida, Texas, and California. Keep in mind that the Hardiness Zones are not just based on how far north or south a crop is grown. As you will see, there are some areas in states like Oregon and even tiny spots in Washington state where you could grow orange citrus trees.

Also, if you live in a zone 8 area, you may be able to pull off growing certain types of oranges like Blood Oranges, Ambersweeet, and Valencia, among others. Mandarins are also an excellent crop to grow in zone 8, especially Satsuma mandarins that can survive in climates as low as 15 degrees Fahrenheit.

Here’s a USDA Hardiness Map that will give you a good idea of where oranges can grow.

 Image Source: Plantingtree.com

How to Grow an Orange Tree: How Long Does It Take to Grow Orange Trees?

As with most trees, orange citrus trees take a while to grow and produce fruit. Generally, some can take about 15 months to mature. However, a few may only need eight to 12 months. However, by “mature,” I don’t mean they are bearing fruit. An orange tree usually starts bearing fruit between its third and fifth years.

How to Grow an Orange Tree: Transplanting

As your potted orange tree grows, it will be necessary to transplant it to bigger and bigger pots with fresh soil every two to four years. Many people choose to grow their trees in a pot to better control temperatures by moving them inside during the winter.

However, if you wish to grow your healthy tree outside, there are several things you need to take into consideration.

When to Transplant

The best time of the year to transplant your potted orange tree is a time when it’s under the least amount of stress from the environment. This means transplanting from spring to the early fall season but not during winter. You also may want to skip the hottest summer months as high temperatures will dry out your soil faster. So Spring and early fall are the sweet spots.

The Rootball

The key to transplanting is maintaining your orange tree’s root ball. When removing your tree, you want to keep as much of your root ball intact along with some potting soil. If your roots are tangled together, you can straighten them out using a knife to promote outward growth before transplanting them.

Where to Transplant

If growing orange trees in an area prone to freezing temperatures, it’s very important to choose a transplanted area you can protect as best you can. The ideal area should provide your tree with as many hours of daily sunlight as possible. However, they can still do well with at least 50 percent sunlight.

As for soil, ideally, your soil should be rich, sandy, well tilled, and well-drained. This way, your orange tree’s roots will easily penetrate.

Also, you should plant your orange trees at least 15 feet apart from your home or other trees, giving your roots lots of room to grow. Planting your tree on the southern side of your home can offer wind protection that’s very helpful during the cold season.

Prepare your soil area by digging a hole twice the diameter of your rootball but half as deep. Your surface should be a bit raised from the ground to promote better water drainage.

How to Grow an Orange Tree: Caring for Your Orange Tree

You can employ several helpful tricks and strategies to encourage the most productive crop yields from your orange tree. Here are a few suggestions.

Remove Developing Fruit

During the first two years, you want to remove any developing fruit. I know, this seems pretty counterintuitive; after all, isn’t growing fruit the whole point?

However, by removing developing fruit during this period, you’re helping your tree focus more of its energy on establishing a healthy, strong framework that will allow it to deliver greater yields during future harvests.

Tips on Watering and Feeding

Once you’ve transplanted your tree, you’ll need to water it at least once a week, just until it becomes established and acclimated to the local soil. Once this happens, your orange tree will better withstand dry spells. However, it will still benefit from a good deep watering every few weeks.

When deciding how much you need to water, the main factor is the type of soil you have. For example, well-drained soil will dry more quickly during hot seasons, thus requiring that you water more frequently. However, if you’re experiencing a lot of rain, you may want to hold off for a few weeks.

Slow and thorough is the way to go when watering. You just need to soak the first couple of inches of soil located just under the tree trunk to just past the drip line.

The drip line consists of the soil under the outer circumference of your tree’s branches. In other words, it’s just to the outside of where your branches and leaves end, creating a circle where excess water drips off your tree. Think of an umbrella. Under where the water comes off is your dripline.

You want to feed your tree every season. Use organic-based pellet citrus fertilizer that has all the nutrients needed to enhance your soil.

Ideally, you should fertilize during the active growth seasons (spring and summer) at least once per month and no less than once every two months. Then during the dormant seasons (fall and winter), only feed once every 2-3 months.

When and How to Prune an Orange Tree

Pruning is one of the most important aspects when it comes to knowing how to grow an orange tree with great-tasting fruits and high yields. You’re improving your tree’s overall health while encouraging growth by pruning. Often tree branches can grow improperly, which can lead to unproductive branches, crowding, and other issues that will impact your harvest.

To learn more about the best practices for pruning orange trees, check out our helpful guide titled: “How to Prune an Orange Tree: Tips for Getting Your Best Fruit Harvest.”

Pest and Disease Control

While maintaining your orange tree, you should always be on the lookout for signs of disease and pests. This handy Citrus Insects & Diseases guide will help you identify and combat these threats to your crop.

Harvesting

Harvesting oranges is perhaps the easiest and most fun part of growing an orange tree. After all your hard work, you should see plump, juicy, orange-y oranges on your tree. You should feel the fruits for firmness. They shouldn’t be mushy. Be on the lookout for mold and discoloration.

Also, sniff them. They should give off a fresh citrus smell.

And most importantly, taste a few promising prospects. If they taste sweet and juicy, then get to picking! This harvest guide also has a few more helpful tips and suggestions.

Growing Oranges — Easier Than You Might Have Thought!

Growing an orange tree can be a little bit of work, but the good news is that they are not nearly as fussy as many other types of plants. The toughest part is cultivating the plants from seeds and transplanting them.

They will require much more attention during the early stages, but you can expect a delicious crop of oranges every year once you get them going for a few years. The main thing is to remain patient. Producing the best orange crops takes a bit more time, but in the end, your patience and efforts are bound to pay off in abundance!

Excited for more orange content? Check out our orange trees page to start learning everything there is to know about your favorite citrus!

How to grow an orange tree at home and in the garden

Tips

Good news: fruits grown in an apartment (and even more so in your garden) will not differ in taste from the store ones at all. The news is not so optimistic - you will have to wait 7-8 years for the first oranges, while caring for the tree along the way. However, even without them, the plant will decorate your interior or landscape design.

Photo
max / Unsplash

Stone house orange tree

Of the 600 varieties of oranges, special varieties have been isolated that are ideal for home cultivation. . These are "Pavlovsky" (short tree 1 meter high), "Gamlin" (one and a half meter tree with sweet and sour fruits) and "Washington Navel" (height up to 2 meters, fragrant flowering and large oranges).

Photo
Paula Ann Smit / Unsplash

How to plant
  • Remove the seeds from a ripe orange of the desired variety, without damaging them in water, rinse and soak2 for hours.

  • Prepare a special soil for citrus fruits or mix turf soil (2 parts), peat (1 part) and sand (1 part).

  • Place the mixture in a small container and plant the seeds 1 cm deep and 5 cm apart.

  • Lightly water the planting, cover the container with cling film and place in a dark place until the first shoots.

  • When the sprouts are two centimeters tall, transplant them into individual small pots.

  • If you have phyto-lamps, illuminate the plant, extending its daylight hours.

What to do next?

Transplant the young tree as it grows into larger tubs - best done in the spring - and make sure it is always provided with warmth and light. The best place will be windows facing south or southeast (small shading can be done to avoid burns), and the optimum temperature should be kept between 20 and 25 degrees .

Regularly water the orange with warm, settled water, but do not let the roots rot. Let the guideline for watering be the formation of a dry crust on the top layer of soil. In the heat, the plant can be sprayed, but at a cool temperature, water procedures should be reduced.

Feed the orange from spring to autumn every two weeks with a special citrus compound and remove weak and crooked shoots. Form a crown by pinching the branches when they reach a length of 10-15 centimeters, and then the orange will begin to bear fruit faster.

Photo
Artur Aldyrkhanov / Unsplash

Orange tree in the garden: the subtleties of growing


The preferred climate for citrus trees is Russian subtropics . The Black Sea coast (Sochi regions) and part of the Caucasus (Dagestan, Adygea) with constant sun and humid air will be ideal places for growing oranges. But some gardeners manage to grow capricious trees in the middle lane too!

Photo
Janine Robinson / Unsplash

The area where the tree is to be planted must be well lit, protected from strong winds and flooding. The soil should be loose and contain a large amount of humus. Professionals recommend using seedlings and not planting shoots grown from seed in open ground - otherwise the fruits will be exclusively decorative and tasteless.

To protect the orange tree from the cold, experienced growers provide on plot so-called trenches - they dig a small pit, making a protective shaft from the infertile layer on the north side. This side is laid with white boards (to reflect sunlight), and on the southern part a gentle slope is formed, which is covered with a black film against weeds. The fertile part of the soil, enriched with top dressing, is returned back to the seedling, and a protective greenhouse dome is installed over the trench.

Before planting, small mounds of earth are poured under each seedling - the plants are planted directly on them, and then the soil is compacted, watered abundantly with warm water (about three buckets per seedling) and circles around the trunks are mulched. ( See also: 15 terms every summer resident should know ).

Photo
Getty Images

Plant a tree during the period when the temperature does not drop below +15 degrees at night . Water young trees every day for three weeks after planting, then reduce irrigation to 1 time per week. If it is hot outside, you can spray the seedlings with warm water from a spray bottle after sunset.

As the tree grows follow krone . It is formed from 3-4 large branches up to 40 centimeters long, second-order shoots (should not move more than 25 cm from the trunk) and third- and fourth-order branches (no longer than 20 cm). Trim branches and pinch from the age of three.

Keep the orange free of pests. Its main enemies are whiteflies and aphids (small green insects), spider mites (infection appears as yellow dots), soot fungus (it is characterized by a dark coating). Both ready-made preparations (Fitoverm, Biotlin) and folk remedies work against them. For example, aphids are fought with a soapy solution with the addition of machine oil (1 tablespoon of soap and 0.5 tablespoons of oil per liter of water), and ticks are disposed of with water and table salt (100 g per 1 liter).

Photo
Getty Images

Citrus can be fed with special fertilizers - they must contain phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium . The ideal period for additional nutrition is spring and early autumn.

A “trench” plant is specially equipped for wintering. The dome is removed, the trench itself is tightly covered with boards and a protective layer of earth is poured on them. This design will allow the tree to withstand frosts down to -25 degrees! The main thing is to remove the protection in time with the onset of heat so that the plant does not begin to rot.

Take care of a capricious tree — and with due attention and perseverance, it will surely bear fruit!

photo
AMOON RA / UNSPASH

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How to grow an orange tree at home

How to grow an orange tree at home
An orange tree at home is an infrequent guest. The plant is thermophilic and is most suitable for those rooms where it is warm and there are no drafts. This culture is very picky and does not tolerate such plants as monstera, hibiscus, ficus and, oddly enough, cucumber seedlings. At home, the Merheulsky orange variety is most often grown. It barely reaches a height of one meter and allows you to collect up to 40 fruits. If it is not possible to get such a variety, then an ordinary bone from a store-bought fruit is suitable for planting a room orange.

Content

  • 1 Description of culture
  • 2 orange: Lighting
  • 3 orange: irrigation
  • 4 orange temperature
  • 5 oranges: soil
  • 6 orange
    • 6.1 Cosin tree from Cotress from Cotress from Cotress from Cotress Office Office Office Office Office Office of Cosain Sowing seeds
    • 6.1.2 Picking young plants
    • 6.1.3 Choosing a pot
  • 6.2 Orange cuttings
  • 7 Orange: pests and diseases
    • 7. 1 Pests
    • 7.2 Miscellaneous
  • Crop description

    Orange is a fruit plant belonging to the Rutaceae family. The culture is widespread in tropical and subtropical countries. The orange tree was grown in China as early as 2.5 thousand years BC. e. The tree was brought to Europe by Portuguese sailors. After that, the orange culture quickly became fashionable.

    In nature, the orange tree can grow up to 3 m in height. The plant is evergreen. It has oval-elongated leaves. The petiole of the leaf is equipped with small pterygoid appendages. The flowers of the orange are bisexual, white, emit a pleasant pronounced aroma.

    Note!!!

    Orange seedlings are used as rootstock for lemons.

    The plant loves light and heat. If the temperature drops, then the culture enters a state of rest, and all vital processes stop. The tree can grow in full shade for about 3-4 months. The shade tolerance of the plant allows it to be grown at home. Flowers appear on the shoots of the current growth.

    Orange: illumination

    As mentioned above, homemade orange is photophilous, it needs sunlight, but it should be shaded from scorching sunlight. When the fruits ripen, the plant especially needs light.

    Orange: watering

    The orange tree does not tolerate waterlogging, but needs regular watering. In the summer, the culture is watered abundantly, but there should not be stagnant water in the pot. In winter, watering is done less frequently, especially for those plants that winter in a cool room.

    Orange temperature

    Orange at a temperature of 6-8 ° C slows down its growth, and at 0 ° C falls into a dormant state. Quietly tolerates shading for 3-4 months. This considerable shade tolerance of oranges in winter contributes to their successful cultivation in rooms.

    Note!!!

    Oranges do not have a clearly defined dormant period, so they grow, bloom and bear fruit at the same time throughout the year.

    Orange: soil

    The soil for planting oranges is composed of soddy and leafy soil, with the addition of humus and sand. For young plants, a lighter (2:1:1:1) is needed, and for adults, a heavy one (3:1:1:1) with the addition of a small amount of clay.

    Orange: propagation

    The plant is propagated in two ways: seeds and cuttings. Instances grown from seeds bear fruit at the 8-12th year of life. When vegetative propagation plant cuttings in February-March. An orange grown from cuttings of a plant bears fruit in the 2nd year.

    Pit orange tree

    The orange pit is quite dense and covered with a hard peel. For planting indoor orange, only fresh seeds are suitable. The probability that a dry seed will grow is negligible.

    Sowing seeds

    Before planting, orange seeds are washed in water and soaked in warm water or Fitosporin solution for 8-10 hours. Then the seed is planted in the ground to a depth of 1 cm. And everything is covered with a film. The seed container is placed in a warm place. Growth is observed after a month. The mini-greenhouse is periodically ventilated and moistened as the soil dries. And as soon as sprouts appear, the greenhouse is moved closer to the light.

    Since orange trees grow in well-lit and warm places, it is best to plant seeds indoors in March, when daylight hours begin to lengthen. Young seedlings respond favorably to lamp lighting.

    Picking young plants

    Young seedlings begin to dive at the moment when two true leaves appear on them. When picking, it should be borne in mind that the culture does not respond well to transplantation. Therefore, you should be careful and try not to damage the root system.
    The best thing for a young orange is transshipment. As the orange grows, it will need to be regularly subjected to a similar procedure. Each time the pot should be 3 cm larger than the previous one.
    Young plants are transplanted annually, and adults once every 2-3 years.

    Choosing a pot

    If an orange has 4-6 leaves, a pot 10 cm in diameter will do. The soil mixture should consist of 2 parts of soddy soil, one part of humus, one part of sand and one part of peat.
    At each transshipment, the amount of soddy land is increased and a little clay is added.

    Good drainage can provide optimum growing conditions for the crop. You should also observe the irrigation regime to prevent rotting of the root system.

    Orange from cuttings

    For cuttings of citrus fruits, a part with 3-5 leaves is cut off from the mother plant. You can cut off the semi-woody or woody part of the crown. I cut off the cuttings with a sharp knife. At the same time, the branch is kept on weight so as not to injure the bark. The upper cut is made 5 mm above the kidney, and the lower one is directly below the kidney. Cuts should preferably be at a slight angle.

    The lower cut of the cutting is immersed in sand, having previously treated the cut with charcoal. The leaf at the kidney is removed, the rest can be left.
    A mini-greenhouse is being built to root the cuttings. For this purpose, take a plastic liter bottle and cut it into two parts. The bottom 2/3 is filled with sand, which must first be shed with potassium permanganate or calcined on fire. The prepared cutting is immersed in the sand by 2-3 cm. And cover the seedling with the top of the bottle. From time to time, you should unscrew the top cover and ventilate the cutting. For better aeration, small holes can be made in the top of the bottle.

    Attention!!!

    Only one cutting is planted per bottle. And on the bottles they write the variety of orange and the date of planting.

    The mini-greenhouse is placed in a well-lit place, but protected from direct sunlight. The air temperature should not be less than 20-25⁰С. The seedling should be sprayed twice a week with a spray bottle. Do not water. Spraying is usually sufficient. If roots appear, they are usually white and can be clearly seen in a plastic bottle, then this means that it is time to transplant the plant into a pot.

    In order not to damage the young roots, the orange is lightly watered, carefully removed from the greenhouse and, together with a clod of earth, planted in a pot with earth, having previously made a hole in the soil for the root system of the plant. And then the plant is transplanted as it grows.

    Note!!!

    The following varieties are best suited for room culture: Gamlin, Korolek, Pavlovsky, Washington Navel.

    Orange: pests and diseases

    When growing an orange, you may encounter diseases and pests. Citrus plants may suffer from the following diseases:

    • Cancer. It appears as small spots on the leaves, then spreads to other parts of the plant. The affected areas of the culture first darken and then die off.
    • Anthracnose. It affects all parts of a houseplant. Appears as brown spots. Formations interfere with the nutrition of the plant and form cracks.
    • Scab (citrus wart). Translucent warts form on the plant, which grow progressively, sucking nutrients from the plant, causing the death of certain parts of the culture. Fruits affected by scab lose their taste.
    • Melsecco. The disease is characterized by chlorotic leaves, drying of branches and the whole tree. Appears due to violation of watering, excessive fertilizing, freezing of individual parts of the plant and from improper agrotechnical measures.
    • Hommosis. The disease affects large roots and bark. A sign of the disease is the release of gum from the trunk, branches and leaves. Severely affected plants begin to shed their foliage.
    • Late blight. It is characterized by the appearance of dark spots with plaque or mold. The affected parts die off, because of which, over time, the whole plant dies, the fruits lose their presentation and taste characteristics. Phytophthora is able to spread from one plant to another.
    • Melanosis. Small brown dots appear on the fruits and foliage, the fruits do not grow to the desired size, and their shape is distorted. Old trees are susceptible to melanosis. Damaged parts of the plant are destroyed.
    • Mycospherellosis. The fungal disease causes blistering spots to form on the underside of the leaf. As the disease progresses, the leaves fall off and the skin of the fruit is damaged. It is necessary to regularly remove fallen leaves, thereby reducing the source of development of new spores.
    • Root rot. The reason for the development of root rot is excessive soil moisture or the penetration of the fungus. It is possible to detect the presence of an infection by dark spots on the trunk, from which fluid is released. Over time, the bark in damaged areas collapses and exfoliates.
    • Tristeza. It spreads to all parts of the plant. The primary symptom is a partial or complete cessation of growth and a change in leaf color.

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