How long does it take for a peach tree to fully grow


How Fast Does Peach Trees Grow? – PlantNative.org

If you’re impatient and want to grow a fruit tree quickly, you’ve come to the right place. Growing peach trees isn’t a quick process, and it won’t produce fruit in the first year.

Usually, it takes about three to four years for a peach tree to reach maturity. You can, however, start a peach tree from seed and enjoy fruit within three to four years.

Once the tree is planted, make sure to water it thoroughly.

Mulch the trunk and create a 3- to 6-inch berm around the root zone.

Prune the peach tree every year to keep it at a healthy height and to remove side branches.

Trimming the tree regularly will ensure a higher-quality crop.

Once your peach tree reaches a height of 10 feet (3 m), fertilize it with a 10-10-10 fertilizer.

A standard peach tree can reach twenty feet in height, but dwarf and semi-dwarf varieties can be much shorter. While a young peach tree will take two to four years to produce fruit, it’s not mature enough to handle the weight of the fruit.

If you want to harvest your peach berries sooner, you’ll have to prune the entire tree. Once the tree has reached its maximum size, you can harvest its fruit.

How quickly do peach trees grow?

Once planted, peach trees should grow quickly. For this reason, you should stake your tree in the first year of its life.

In strong winds, young saplings can get bent and may grow at an angle.

Extreme winds can damage the roots. Fruit tree fertilizer spikes can be applied to your tree to improve its growth.

These spikes release fertilizer slowly to the tree and make it grow faster.

As for their life span, peach trees can live for 15 to 20 years. However, their productivity peaks during the fourth to eighth years.

After this time, their growth slows down and they produce fewer fruits. In addition, peach trees can live up to twelve or more decades before bearing fruit. Fortunately, the average lifespan of peach trees is still quite long compared to other fruits.

Peach trees need about twelve to 24 inches of growth per year. To ensure a consistent crop, fertilize your peach tree with a natural organic fertilizer at the start of spring.

This will help them grow more vigorously. Pruning can help encourage new growth and improve the quality of fruit production.

You should prune your tree to promote better fruiting and air movement around the center of the tree. To stimulate new growth, prune the branches in late summer or early fall.

How much do peach trees grow in a year?

You may be wondering, “How much do peach trees grow in a calendar year?” The answer to this question depends on several factors.

One of these is the variety of the peach tree you have. Different varieties have different number of main branches. Some have three main limbs, while others have four or five.

The main reason for this difference is that the peach trees with three main limbs look more uniform. However, if you want to grow more fruits, you should prune the tree every third year.

The average peach tree does not produce fruit in its first year.

It typically takes three or four years after planting to start to produce a reasonable crop.

A peach tree’s fruit production starts in the early spring, when it produces beautiful pink flowers and tiny green peaches.

But you should watch out for this growth, because the trees naturally drop the fruit.

You will need to thin the crop every year. Remove only the largest branches from the tree and leave at least six inches of space between the fruits.

If you live in a cold climate, it is important to plant peach trees in the southern half of your climate. If the winters are cold, the fruit will not grow properly.

This is especially true if you are planting your peach tree in the northern half. The temperature of your area will affect how much your tree grows. It is best to plant peach trees that will thrive in your local area.

How long does a peach tree take to fruit?

Before peaches are produced, peach trees flower. The flower contains pistils and stamens that pollinate the peach. Once a flower has been pollinated, the fruit produces seeds.

When picking peaches, it is best to pick them when they are ripe. The unripe ones should be left on the tree to mature. However, if you see some peeling or browning, it is best to discard them.

Peach trees usually begin producing fruit between two and four years of age.

In the eighth year, they reach a peak yield. Afterwards, production decreases.

A healthy peach tree will be fruitful throughout its life. Here are some tips to help your peach tree bear fruit: Ensure that the soil is warm and rich in organic matter. Also, avoid over fertilizing your peach tree.

Pruning is an important step in the growth cycle of a peach tree.

While light pruning can be done at any time, heavy pruning is best performed in the spring, when the peach tree breaks dormancy. By removing old wood from the tree, it will stimulate new wood lower on the tree.

The goal is to make the tree produce fruit for its second year. A healthy peach tree should produce fruit only in the second year.

How Fast Do Peach Trees Grow? (And How Long to Bear Fruit?)

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Growing a peach tree in your yard is something that can make you very happy. Not only are peach trees quite beautiful, but you’ll eventually be able to harvest delicious peaches.

There are all sorts of peach recipes out there that will allow you to bake tasty treats. Your mouth might be watering just thinking about the day when you’re finally able to make a peach pie with peaches from your own tree.

If you just recently planted a peach tree, then you might have to wait a while before that day will come. When you’ve never planted a tree like this before, you might not be too sure about how long it takes to grow.

How fast do peach trees grow? When will you be able to expect fruit to start growing on your tree?

Read on to get more information about peach trees and how they grow. It’ll help you to understand what to expect.

The Growth Rate of Peach Trees

When you take the time to care for peach trees properly, it’s going to be possible to see them grow 18 inches each year. This does mean that it will take quite some time for a sapling to grow into a full-sized tree.

A standard peach tree will reach heights between 18 and 20 feet. It should also be just as wide.

There are also smaller peach trees out there if you don’t want to have such a big tree. Semi-dwarf peach trees will often grow to be 12 feet tall at maximum growth.

Dwarf peach trees are substantially shorter and will only reach heights of six feet tall in most instances. You should consider the available space in your yard when deciding which peach tree you’d like to plant.

To keep the peach tree growing as well as it possibly can, it’s essential to fertilize the tree. Keep reading to learn a bit about the fertilization process.

How to Fertilize a Peach Tree

Fertilizing a peach tree is going to help it to grow as fast as it can. People use fertilizer to help ensure that the peaches on the tree will be as big and delicious as possible, too.

Generally, peach trees are meant to be fertilized twice per year. You fertilize the tree the first time during the early spring, and then you do it again during the early days of summer.

If you just planted your peach tree, then it’s recommended to fertilize it one week after planting it. This helps the tree to establish itself quite a bit.

It’s best to use a balanced fertilizer for this process. Most enthusiasts choose a 10-10-10 fertilizer that has the perfect mix of potassium, nitrogen, and phosphorus.

During the fertilization process, it’s best not to place the fertilizer too close to the trunk. Instead, you should fertilize the tree about 10 inches away from the trunk.

It keeps you from damaging the tree in any way while still ensuring that the roots will be able to utilize the fertilizer. If you remember to do this twice each year, then your peach tree will grow strong.

How Long Until the Tree Produces Fruit?

Of course, one of the biggest reasons why you would plant a peach tree in your yard is that you want to enjoy peaches. Peaches are tasty and you want to be able to start enjoying them as soon as possible.

Sadly, you’re going to need to exercise patience if you planted a young tree recently. It’s going to take two to four years for the tree to start producing fruit.

When the tree is younger than this, it won’t be large enough to support full-sized fruit that can be harvested. This means that you just need to focus on helping the tree to grow during these first couple of years.

It’s important to note that there are other factors that can cause a tree to not be able to produce fruit. Colder temperatures can keep trees from being able to produce fruit.

This is why it’s crucial to ensure that you’re planting the tree in an environment where it can thrive. You might need to check whether you’re in the right USDA zone for the peach tree that you chose.

Fertilizing a tree too much can cause it to stop producing fruit, too. This can be corrected, but you will want to avoid using more fertilizer than is recommended.

Even poor pruning practices can cause fruiting issues. Do your best to learn how to prune peach trees so that you can get consistently good results.

How Long Will Peach Trees Produce Fruit?

Once your peach tree finally starts fruiting, it’s going to keep producing fruit for approximately 12 years. You should be able to enjoy an average of 66 pounds of fruit each year from your tree.

The peak yield of the peach tree will occur at the eight-year mark. After this year, the production of fruit will slowly start to decline.

This means that you’ll be able to enjoy many great years of harvesting peaches from your peach tree. So long as you care for the tree to the best of your ability, it’s going to be a good experience.

You’ll be able to look forward to eating fresh peaches each year. Many people choose to plant more peach trees so that they can keep enjoying this process even when some of the trees stop fruiting.

How Long Will the Peach Tree Live?

The peach tree should live for around 15 to 20 years if nothing goes wrong. Unless the peach tree gets a disease or experiences some type of cold shock, it’s going to survive for quite some time.

Even so, this is a short lifespan when compared to many other fruit trees. When you start reaching the end of the tree’s lifespan, it’s going to be appropriate to start thinking about planting new trees.

If you’d like to avoid interruption in your ability to harvest peaches yearly, then you should plant new peach trees before the original tree stops fruiting. This gives the new peach trees the two to four years that they need to grow strong enough to start producing fruit.

Final Thoughts

Peach trees will usually grow 18 inches per year when you’re caring for them really well. This assumes that you’re fertilizing the tree twice per year and that you planted it in the right USDA zone.

A standard peach tree might grow to be 20 feet tall. Semi-dwarf and dwarf varieties will be quite a bit shorter than that.

It takes a young peach tree two to four years to start producing peaches that can be harvested. This is because the young tree isn’t strong enough to hold the fruit yet.

You just need to encourage growth and keep caring for the tree. So long as you’re doing your best, it’s going to be possible to harvest peaches before too long.

The peach tree will only live between 15 and 20 years. This is still a fairly long time, but it isn’t as long as many other fruit trees.

Hopefully, you feel more knowledgeable about peach trees now. Enjoy your peaches and the overall beauty of the tree.

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Peach - cultivation and care.

Planting, reproduction, protection. Varieties for different regions. Photo — Botanichka

Peach is an ancient culture native to northern China. The main peach plantations are concentrated in the subtropics and warm regions of the Caucasus, European and Asian states. The peach culture stepped into the expanses of the southern and some middle regions in the second half of the last century. There is a real peach boom going on right now. Many gardeners prefer peaches to apricots. Peaches are more hardy during spring return frosts. The advantages of peach include the possibility of obtaining a full-fledged crop with the inheritance of maternal characteristics (large fruit, pulp taste, aroma, etc.) when propagated by seeds.

Peach tree with fruits. © M. Denise Wilmer Barreto

Health Benefits of Peach

Sweet and sour, honey-sweet peach flesh, tender and aromatic, is not only delicious, but also medicinal. These fruits are high in vitamins, sugars, pectin and organic acids, including quinic, tartaric, citric, and malic. Pectins and antioxidants protect the body from aging. High content of B vitamins, A, PP, K, C, E, a fairly large list of minerals, including potassium, magnesium, iron, copper, calcium, sodium, zinc, fluorine, manganese, selenium, silicon, chlorine, phosphorus, aluminum, sulfur, contribute to the resistance to various diseases, including anemia.

Doctors prescribe peach juice for anemia and heart rhythm disorders, gastrointestinal diseases, neurodermatitis, asthma, influenza and many other diseases. The iodine contained in peach fruits contributes to the normalization of the thyroid gland, which is responsible for the body's immune system. From the seeds, peach oil is obtained, which is used in the manufacture of cosmetics and medicines.

Briefly about the botanical characteristics of peach

Garden or cultivar varieties of peach, which are descended from the common peach (Persica vulgaris), are mainly grown in dachas. These are woody or shrubby forms of perennial fruit crops. Usually 3 - 4 meters in height, but some varieties can grow up to 8-9m. The peach root system does not go deeper into the soil more than 60-70 cm and therefore the crop needs to be watered in dry hot weather.

Skeletal branches of the peach crown have a large angle of deviation from the main trunk, which contributes to the formation of a wide spreading crown. This feature must be taken into account when planting plants. Peaches don't like thickening.

Peach belongs to the group of cross pollinated plants and needs a partner. To get full yields in the country, you need to plant several different varieties. Fruiting begins in the 2nd - 3rd year and lasts up to 20 years with proper care.

The fruits of some varieties of peach reach a mass of 150-200 g of pulp of different colors (from white to yellow and yellow-orange) and fruit colors - from white, pink, yellow with colored red cheeks to red-carmine. When planting different varieties of peach (early, medium, late), fresh fruits can be obtained from July to the end of September. The keeping quality of fruits is determined by the biological properties of the variety, but does not differ in duration.

According to biological features, peaches are divided into 2 varieties.

  • Genuine peaches with soft hairy fruit. A varietal sign can be a slight separation of the stone from the pulp. (In some varieties, the stone does not separate from the pulp).
  • Nectarines, the main difference of which is the naked fruit (like a plum) and the ability to separate or not separate the pulp from the stone.

Planting peach seedlings by region

Farming peach in country conditions is somewhat different from cultivation in industrial quantities, mainly in terms of protection against diseases and pests.

Peach is a southern plant, belongs to warm and sun-loving crops. The crown and root system are frosted over at frosts of -15 ..-20 ° С. With return spring frosts, last year's growth freezes over, but quickly recovers. Best of all, the peach grows and bears fruit in areas with a warm climate and a large number of sunny days a year.

Planted peach trees. © Larry Reynolds

Southern regions

In the southern regions, it is better to plant peach seedlings in autumn in September-October. Weather conditions allow the seedling to adapt to a new planting site before the onset of cold weather, grow young roots, and prepare for an active life when spring comes.

If peach seedlings are planted in the south in spring, they most often fall under the hot May-June sun. Dry air and the sun's rays dry out the kidneys, the bark and subcortical layers coarsen and dry out. To save the spring planting (and at this time there are a lot of other works in the garden and in the garden), you need to protect the peach seedling from the sun's rays with any breathable shelter, spray it with water (not cold), and keep the soil constantly moist, that is, water it 2 once a week. Over time, the shelter is removed, watering is transferred to a one-time per week and the young leaves are sprayed with cineb or 1% Bordeaux mixture. During autumn planting, blossoming peach leaves are also sprayed with this composition. This technique prevents the appearance of leaf curl.

Regions of the middle and northern lanes

In the middle lane, peach seedlings can be planted in autumn and spring, depending on the weather. With the onset of early cold weather with prolonged rains, it is better to dig in the seedlings and plant them in the spring, as soon as the spring frosts have passed. The soil in the upper layer should warm up to + 12 .. + 15 ° С.

To the north, frost-resistant peach varieties take root normally only during spring plantings. Moreover, there is no need to rush to plant young trees early. The soil and air should be warm enough. Having grown stronger during the spring-summer period, peaches more easily endure the winter cold in the middle regions and the northern regions adjacent to them. When grown in cold areas, peaches are covered for the winter.

Purchase and preparation of peach seedlings for planting

1-2 year old peach seedlings provide a high survival rate. Their height ranges from 1.0 to 1.5 meters, the stem in circumference is 1.5-2.0 cm. On the trunk and side shoots, the bark should be smooth, uniform, without gum dots, which after 1-2 years can infect the plant with gum disease.

If peach seedlings are planted in spring in a permanent place, then already on the market the seller can cut the root system and shorten the trunk to 80-90 cm, and side shoots by 1/3. At night, the seedling is placed in a container with a root (you can use another available stimulant) and planted on the second day.

When peach is planted in autumn, the root system is shortened and the aerial part is not touched. The crown in this case is cut in the spring of next year. If 2-4-year-old peach seedlings with normally developed leaves are purchased, it is advisable to cut them off. Reception is necessary so as not to dry out the main trunk and side shoots until the root system of the planted seedling is working.

Soil preparation and peach planting rules

Planting pits for planting peach seedlings are prepared 4-6 months in advance, placing them every 3-4-5 m, depending on the variety type. Thickened plantings form a low-quality crop in taste and often get sick. The pit is dug 40x40x40 or other sizes. Finally, the volume of the planting pit is prepared for the size of the root system of the purchased seedling.

Peaches can grow on any type of soil except saline and acidic. In heavy soils, add 1-2 buckets of humus or 0.5-1.0 bucket of mature compost and up to 100 g of nitrophoska or other complex mineral fertilizer with a low nitrogen content. The introduced humus will increase the air and water permeability of clay soils. If the soil is light, you can use up to 1 bucket of humus or only mineral fertilizers.

Drive a 1.0-1.5 meter wooden stake into the middle of the prepared pit, or preferably a flat support 1-2 cm wide. When planting, the peach seedling must be positioned relative to the support so that it shaded the young plant during the day from the sun's rays. At the bottom of the pit, drainage is formed from crushed stone, sand and other small materials up to 10-15 cm high so that water does not stagnate, and a mound of prepared soil is poured. The roots of the seedling are straightened along the mound, covered up to 2/3 with soil, slightly compressed and a bucket of settled water is poured. After soaking, the pit is completely filled up.

When planting, the root collar should be 3-4 cm above the ground. Some gardeners recommend deepening the root collar to this depth. When freezing from the scion shoots, you can form a new crown or switch to a bushy form of growing a crop. A 5-6 cm shaft is formed around the planted seedling and another 1-2 buckets of water are poured. After water has been absorbed, the soil is mulched without closing the bole. When peach is planted in spring, the buds swell within a month, the leaves unfold. Sometimes a peach seedling does not “wake up”, but the stem remains elastic, the bark does not change color. In this state, the seedling can "sleep" until the next spring, and then begin normal development.

Peach tree sapling

Peach care

Watering and fertilizing

Post-plant care needs special attention in the first 2-3 years. Watering without stagnant water should be carried out 2 times a month, top dressing - 2 times during the growing season. The first feeding of peaches is carried out before flowering in the budding phase with a complete mineral fertilizer. Use nitrophoska, nitroammophoska, urea, kemira and other fats at the rate of 30-40 g under a tree; the second top dressing - after July 15-20 with a phosphorus-potassium mixture, respectively, 50 and 25 g under the tree of superphosphate and potassium sulfate. You can repeat the introduction of Kemira, nitrophoska.

With the onset of fruiting, the number of peach dressings is increased to three. The rate of solid fertilizers is gradually increased to 150-200 g each under a tree. Fertilizers are scattered along the edge of the crown for digging or brought into dug grooves, holes, followed by closure, watering and mulching. One of the top dressings is usually carried out by spraying the tree crown with microelements or by adding a glass of wood ash for irrigation. It is carried out at the beginning of fruit growth, shifting the introduction of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers to the beginning of ripening. Humus, compost, chicken manure (in solution) are applied in autumn or spring once every 3-4 years, 1-2 buckets each. In the year of organic matter introduction, nitrogen fertilizers are not used for top dressing.

Fruiting peaches are sprayed annually before bud break and after leaf fall with a 2-3% solution of Bordeaux mixture. You can use cineb or other preparations containing copper or zinc for spraying. It is useful to spray peaches during the growing season with boric acid or ash extract (a glass / bucket of water). Potassium permanganate and a few drops of iodine can be added to boric acid.

Peach crown formation and annual pruning

Formative peach pruning begins the year following planting. When forming a cup-shaped wide crown, pruning is carried out in March. On the central peach stem, all side shoots are cut to a height of 40-50 cm. A tree stem is formed. Above the trunk, 3-6 shoots are left - these are the future skeletal branches of the first order. Above these branches, the central trunk is removed. The following year, second-order shoots will form on them. The rest of the shoots, especially those growing inward and thickening, are cut into a ring. Shoots of the 1st and 2nd orders are cut to 50-60 cm. On the remaining part of the peach skeletal branches of any order, young shoots grow during the warm season, forming the crop for the next year. These shoots are called fruiting shoots. Fruiting shoots are left after 15-20 cm, the rest are cut into a ring. If you leave a denser arrangement, the crop will be small-fruited.

There is another scheme for the formation of a peach tree. It is called "formation according to the principle of the fruit link." Use this method of crown formation more often in cold areas. The formed link can be tilted to the ground and covered for the winter. The planting pattern is called "meadow garden". Landing pattern thickened. The distance between rows is 2 m, in a row 0.5 m. Each peach tree forms up to 15 fruits.

When forming a fruit link, the crown, as such, is absent. In the first year after planting, the peach is not pruned. It grows freely, forms a large number of shoots. Seedlings are fed and watered in a timely manner, mulched.

In the second year, in April, a peach seedling is cut at a height of 10 cm from the soil, leaving the 2 most developed stems located closer to the ground. One will be the main for fruiting, and the second spare. In summer, thinning is carried out densely located on these 2 branches of lateral shoots, you can shorten them. In this case, the lower 2 do not touch. In autumn, after leaf fall, the peach shoot, left as a spare, is cut to 2 lower branches, and the second is left for fruiting. The following year, in the fall, the fruiting shoot is removed, and the 2 lowest shoots are left on the spare and the rest of the growth is removed. That is, every year they form a fruit link.

Recently, more and more gardeners are turning to growing peach in the form of a bush. This form is most convenient in cold regions. Peach is easy to shelter from winter frosts. They form an above-ground mass of 4-5 to 10 most developed shoots. The rest are cut out. On each shoot, shoots of this year are left, which will form a crop next year. Old branches that practically do not form a crop are periodically removed.

Peach fruits on the tree. © Jessica

Propagation of peach in the country

Peaches in the dacha are propagated by grafted seedlings purchased from the relevant companies and seeds.

Moreover, the second is the most common technique that does not require complex manipulations during planting and growing seedlings. Seed propagation of peach is beneficial in that trees grow more resistant to the vagaries of weather and disease. With seed propagation, not all planted seeds can form a culture with maternal characteristics. The ovary in peaches is formed as a result of cross-pollination, and some of the seeds may bear signs of a rootstock. To reduce the selection error, a large number of seeds must be sown. When the first leaves appear on the seedlings, those with a wider leaf blade should be selected. Of course, this is not 100% reliable, but still there is a possibility of selection. When sowing in pots, not one peach seed is also sown, but 3-4, and after germination, 1 strongest seedling is left, and the rest are cut off at the soil surface.

Peach seeds in open ground in the southern regions are sown from October 15 to November 10-15. Previously, the bones are scarified or soaked for 2-3 days in warm water, which is changed daily. For planting seeds, zoned peach varieties are chosen, which is especially important in the middle lane. Seeds of such varieties will be a guarantee of obtaining a crop that forms a crop and is resistant to climatic conditions. Under shelter, plants will freeze less. Imported varieties that are not adapted to our climate may turn out to be barren or freeze out in the first winter. In order for peaches to successfully develop and form a high-quality crop, it is necessary to comply with the requirements of agricultural technology and cover the crop for the period of cold weather.

A sunny place is chosen for the school, the soil is fertilized with humus or mature compost. Peach seeds are placed in holes to a depth of 6-8 cm. The holes are placed at a distance of 7-10 cm. During the winter, the seed undergoes natural stratification, and shoots appear in spring. Peach seedlings grow quickly, but require careful care. The soil should be loose, weed-free, constantly moist (not wet). During the summer season, 3-4 top dressings are carried out, preferably with kemira or crystal at the rate of 30-40 g / sq. m.

When growing peach seedlings at home, after sowing the seeds, containers are placed in a warm place, which is equipped according to the principle of a mini-greenhouse. Before germination, the temperature in the room is maintained at +10..+15 °С, and after germination it is gradually raised to +18..+20 °С. The soil must be constantly moist. When seedlings appear, containers with seedlings must be placed in well-lit places. Peach seedlings are planted in open or closed ground in the spring by transshipment at a soil temperature in the root layer of at least +12 . . +14 ° С with a constant high air temperature.

Varieties of peach for different regions

Like other crops, peaches are classified according to the speed of ripening of the crop into early, medium and late. In the south, crops are formed according to the biological ripeness of all three variety groups, in the middle lane and, especially in the cold zone, even when grown in heated greenhouses and greenhouses, they are limited to growing early and much less often - medium and medium-early varieties.

In the southern regions and areas close to them in the middle zone, the following early and mid-early peach varieties are most acceptable: early Kyiv, Redhaven, Collins, Juicy, Favorit, May flower, Early Sycheva, Rossoshanskaya early ripening, Nadezhny, Fluffy early and others.

Of the mid-ripening in the southern region, the peach variety Cardinal forms high yields of good quality, the fruits of which reach a weight of 140-150 g. Large-fruited. The fruits reach a mass of more than 200 g. Of the other varieties, Veteran, Skazka, Zakatny, Smolensky are in demand.

We can recommend winter-hardy varieties of peaches of American and Canadian selection (nectarines, peaches with fig fruits) - Harbinger, Harnas, Inka, Harko, Suncrest and others for growing on their own plots. Naturally, the listed varieties are given as examples. The market annually offers new, more improved varieties for winter hardiness and resistance to diseases and pests. Before purchasing a new peach variety, it is necessary to carefully familiarize yourself with its characteristics so as not to get into trouble in a few years, when it turns out that the variety is unsuitable for the region.

Treatment of peach trees from pests and diseases. © Mary H. Dyer

Protecting Peach from Diseases and Pests

The most common peach diseases are leaf curl, moniliosis, powdery mildew, fruit rot, gum disease. Diseases are caused by pathogenic fungi, bacteria and viruses.

Of the pests, aphids, spider mites, scale insects, codling moths cause the greatest damage to the crop and the condition of the crop. According to the way of feeding, they belong to gnawing and sucking pests.

It is not recommended to use chemicals to kill diseases and pests in dachas and adjacent areas. You can get an environmentally friendly crop by using biological products developed on the basis of soil Effective Microorganisms (EM or biological products) to protect against diseases and pests. They are harmless to humans and animals. They can be used almost until harvest. However, using only preparations, the garden cannot be cleared of diseases and pests, because their adult forms, eggs successfully overwinter on weeds and under vegetable garden and garden residues, in fallen fruits and leaves.

Pest and disease control must begin with preventive measures. After harvesting, it is necessary to remove all fruit and leaf litter from under the crown of the fruit-bearing crop. Carry out sanitary pruning of trees (in late autumn or early spring), removing diseased, cracked shoots, covered with points of incipient gum disease. Take it outside the site and burn it.

From diseases to bud break in spring and leaf fall in autumn, peaches should be sprinkled with 2-3% Bordeaux mixture. And after the leaves bloom, switch to treatment with tank mixtures of biofungicides and bioinsecticides. Bioinsecticides lepidocid, fitoverm, bitoxibacillin can be combined with biofungicides mikosan, phytosporin, hamair, alirin. Each of the biological products has its own limits of effective action on plants. Therefore, before proceeding with the preparation of solutions, it is necessary to study the instructions and check the biological products for compatibility.

Tank mixes or individual biological preparations start treatment of plants from the phase of bud break and finish a few days before harvest. Adhesives must be added to the prepared solution so that the preparation does not roll down and is not washed off the leaves. After rains, spraying of plants is repeated. The treatment is carried out after 7-10 days by fine spraying. Proper preparation and use of biological products qualitatively protects the crop from pests and diseases.

How to grow a peach at home from the stone, and also whether it will bear fruit

Growing exotic tropical trees such as orange, kiwi, pomegranate is becoming more and more fashionable among amateur flower growers. They are trying to "domesticate" other crops, such as peach. But going to the store for such a tree is useless. The only way to get them is to grow them from the seed yourself. There is nothing difficult in this, the grower will only need desire, a little patience and the ability to follow the rules and recommendations exactly. The process is laborious, but very interesting.

Contents

  • 1 Selection of planting material

    • 1.1 Video: is it possible to grow a peach from a stone at home

  • 2 Planting and preparing seeds

    • 2.1 Stratification

      • 2. 1.1 Seed extraction

    • 2.2 Germination of seeds under natural conditions

    • 2.3 Transplant procedure

  • 3 Further care

    • 3.1 Creating the right microclimate

    • 3.2 Growing advice

    • 3.3 Video: peach pruning rules

  • 4 How to properly vaccinate

    • 4.1 Split grafting

    • 4.2 Budding

  • 5 Home gardener reviews

Selection of planting material

There is hardly a person who would not like peaches. That is why more and more flower growers, partly following fashion trends, are trying to grow a fruit-bearing tree on their windowsill. But just sticking a peach pit into the ground and expecting a harvest would be at least naive. The procedure is much more complicated, it requires preliminary preparation, the ability to act according to these recommendations, the availability of free time and, of course, desire.

Growing a fruit-bearing peach tree at home is quite a task even for a less experienced gardener. There will definitely not be shoots. The fact is that these fruits are grown very far from Russia (Spain, China, Thailand, Turkey). In order for the harvest to safely endure transportation, the fruits are harvested long before the onset of not only biological, but also technical maturity, almost green. In addition, for better preservation and extension of the shelf life, peaches are treated with chemicals. The seeds inside the seeds simply do not have time to ripen, it makes no sense to talk about germination. And the drugs used contribute to the fact that the shell becomes very fragile, breaks easily, bursts in half. By the way, such fruits are not recommended.

Shop-bought peaches cannot be used for planting material

Only peach seeds grown on local farms in private garden plots have a chance to germinate. Therefore, for planting material, you need to go to markets, agricultural fairs, to neighbors in the country, and so on. But even the “right” fruit does not guarantee success. Practice shows that, on average, one seed out of four sprouts, and a significant part of the seedlings die within two to three months after germination. Therefore, it is advisable to stock up on planting material in excess.

Seedlings at home give only peach seeds taken from the tree after reaching full maturity

It is also advisable to ask the seller if the peach tree has been grafted. In own-rooted plants, "descendants" fully inherit the varietal characteristics of the "parent". And the germination of seeds extracted from grafted peaches is a kind of lottery. Until the first harvest, no one can tell what the fruits will be.

Even if you cannot get peach fruits at home, you will get a wonderful interior decoration - this tree blooms very beautifully

In principle, peaches of any variety ripen at home. But if you have a choice, you should give preference to those that are characterized by short stature, early maturity and the ability to self-pollinate. Of those cultivated in Russia and the countries of the former USSR, the varieties Pineapple, Krasnodar, Kyiv, Mignon early, Redhaven fully correspond to these characteristics.

Redhaven peach is an old well-deserved hybrid, bred in the USA, it is quite suitable for growing at home

Video: is it possible to grow a peach from a stone at home

Planting seeds and preparing for it

Peach seeds are a must pre-planting preparation is required. There are several ways, differing in duration, labor costs and efficiency. The fruits from which the stones are removed must be overripe, but at the same time absolutely healthy, without the slightest suspicious symptoms indicating the development of pathogenic fungi, viruses, bacteria or traces resembling damage left by insects.

Stratification

Stratification or the so-called cold method is the most common type of preplant preparation. Its essence is to simulate "winter" for seeds, creating conditions that are as close to natural as possible. In this case, the natural mechanism of preparing the seed for germination starts, chemical reactions begin, in the process complex organic compounds decompose into simple components that the embryo is able to use for nutrition and assimilate.

In order for the stratification to be successful, peach seeds must be thoroughly cleaned of particles of pulp

). You can put them, for example, in the refrigerator, in a special compartment for storing vegetables and fruits. And also a good solution - a cellar or basement. If the winter is expected to be warm and snowy, the container is simply added dropwise in the garden. They begin preparations in mid-autumn, calculating the time so that by the time the seeds sprout, it is still quite cold outside.

The temperature in the vegetable and fruit compartment is optimal for peach pit stratification. Previously, the substrate must be thoroughly washed and disinfected by steaming, calcining in the oven, holding in the freezer. Some flower growers recommend sawdust or sphagnum moss as a "primer", but when using them, it is very difficult to provide the required humidity.

  • Peach pits, carefully cleaned of lumps of pulp (the latter can cause rot), are planted in the ground, deepening 7–9 cm.
  • Place the container in a paper or transparent plastic bag, make 3-4 holes in it with a knife, and put it in the refrigerator. The condition of the soil is constantly monitored, moistening the soil from a fine spray gun as it dries. If condensation appears, the bag is opened for 5–7 minutes to ventilate.
  • After 10-12 weeks, the seeds will sprout, their shell will open. When this happens, the container is removed from the refrigerator, the peaches are seated in individual pots with a diameter of 7–9see. The soil is prepared independently, mixing approximately equal proportions of peat chips, humus and universal soil for indoor plants or leafy soil.
  • Peaches are provided with sufficient light by placing them on a south or southwest window sill. Do not allow a sharp change in the microclimate. The temperature is raised gradually. For 5-7 days, the seedlings are kept on a glazed loggia, at 10-12ºС. Then they can be brought into the apartment, providing coolness (17-20ºС). All this time, peaches are watered very sparingly, only when the soil dries out.
  • Seed extraction

    The existing pit is simply gently split to remove the seeds. If everything is done correctly, seedlings will appear much earlier than with stratification. But due to the complete lack of hardening, such peaches are especially demanding on the conditions of detention, they need perfect care. Plants do not tolerate even slight fluctuations in temperature, humidity, and so on.

    The peach pit is split very carefully so as not to damage the seed, even its shell

    Proceed as follows:

    1. Peach pits are thoroughly washed and dried for several days, laid out on linen napkins or paper towels. Then they are very carefully broken using a knife and a hammer. Seeds (“kernels”) that have received at least the slightest damage in the process can be immediately thrown away.
    2. The extracted seeds are kept for 3-4 days in water heated to room temperature, changing the liquid every morning. They should swell, noticeably increasing in size.
    3. When this happens, peach seeds are planted in individual pots, deepening by 4-5 cm. They are created "greenhouse" conditions, tightening the containers with plastic wrap, covering with glass.
    4. Future peaches are provided with bottom heating, darkness, temperature 26-28ºС. Every day for 5-10 minutes, the "greenhouse" is opened for ventilation, while at the same time erasing the accumulated condensate. Moisten the soil very moderately and only when it dries out. High humidity often provokes the development of rot.
    5. As soon as sprouts appear, the “shelter” is removed, the containers are exposed to light, providing a “day” lasting at least 12 hours. Requirements for temperature and watering do not change.

    "Greenhouse effect" is absolutely necessary for peach seeds extracted from pits to sprout

    Germination of seeds in natural conditions

    The easiest option, requiring minimal time and effort. The so-called warm method does not require the creation of a special microclimate for seeds. Normal household conditions are enough. The bones extracted from the fruits are simply planted in pots filled with soil and hope for the best. With luck, sprouts will appear in 3-4 months.

    Peach seedlings obtained from seeds that have not undergone any preliminary preparation are extremely rare

    The chances of success can be increased by the following:

    1. The stones are placed in the refrigerator for 7-10 days, providing at least a short-term stratification.
    2. Then they are soaked for 3-4 hours in a solution of any biostimulant prepared according to the instructions. The most common remedies are Epin, Kornevin, Heteroauxin, potassium humate, succinic acid, aloe juice.
    3. Seeds are planted in cups filled with universal soil for indoor plants, deepening at least 5 cm. Be sure to have several drainage holes and a layer of expanded clay (or other suitable material) at the bottom, 2–3 cm thick. The soil must first be well moistened.
    4. Bones provide the same conditions as described in the previous method. Particular attention should be paid to watering - peach categorically does not tolerate stagnant moisture. When sprouts appear, the containers are transferred to the brightest place in the apartment, providing protection from any drafts and direct sunlight.

    Biostimulants used in the process of seed germination have a positive effect on seed germination and strengthen the immunity of future plants

    The peach tree does not differ in growth rate. Sometimes it even seems that the seedlings do not develop at all. First, the tree forms the root system, and only then - the aerial part. But then it rapidly starts to grow, stretching for 8–10 weeks by 45–60 cm in height. The first harvest can be expected 4-5 years after emergence.

    A young peach tree does not grow very fast, but you should not worry about this, it is completely normal for it

    Transplantation procedure

    The first time a peach tree is transplanted when it reaches a height of 15–20 cm. , humus, river sand and ordinary garden soil in a ratio (1:1:1:2).

    Flowering and fruiting greatly deplete the plant, so the soil for it must be nutritious, one of its essential components is humus

    The peach tree does not need to be transplanted too often. Once every 2-3 years is sufficient. Some tightness will even benefit the roots by encouraging more abundant flowering. The optimal time for the procedure is early spring (before the start of the active growing season) or the first half of September (when fruiting ends).

    For a peach, choose a bucket-shaped pot. This is still a tree, so its root system is developed. It is best to purchase a container made of ceramic - it is more stable and provides proper aeration.

    In a shallow, flat pot, there is simply not enough space for peach roots.

    Further care

    In nature, peach grows in the tropics. This is what you need to focus on, creating a suitable microclimate for the tree. It is worth listening to its “requirements”, because flowering and fruiting is possible only in optimal or close to them conditions.

    Creating the right microclimate

    Peach is very photophilous. The plant needs to provide daylight hours lasting 12-14 hours. In most of the territory of Russia, natural light cannot be dispensed with, so you will have to use simple fluorescent or special phytolamps for additional illumination. They are included not only in autumn and winter, but also in summer, in cloudy cool weather.

    LED phytolamp consumes not so much electricity, but it allows you to provide peaches with daylight of the desired duration

    A pot with a peach tree is placed near a window facing south or southeast. As a rule, this is the brightest place in the apartment. But a plant, especially a young one, can suffer from burns, therefore, during the period of maximum solar activity, it must be shaded by covering it with tulle, gauze, and a paper screen.

    The plant has a very positive attitude towards fresh air, but categorically does not tolerate cold drafts. This must be taken into account when choosing a place in the apartment. In summer, the peach feels great on the loggia, veranda, balcony, in the garden, if it is protected from rain and wind.

    Peach is very fond of fresh air, so if the temperature is right, it is quite possible to take it outside.

    The optimum temperature varies depending on the stage of development of the plant. He definitely needs a rest period at 2-5ºС. It lasts from November to early March. Then the temperature is raised to 12-15ºС. Higher rates can cause bud drop. After flowering, the plant needs warmth, but not heat (22-26ºС). The peach tree will not survive negative temperatures.

    Humidity is not critical for peach. He will be quite satisfied with the standard 50-60%, to maintain which in modern apartments you do not need to make any effort. However, in hot weather, the peach won't mind a daily spray. It is also useful for sanitary purposes to wipe the leaves from time to time with a damp sponge or soft cloth, getting rid of dust.

    Cultivation recommendations

    Peach is a moisture-loving plant, but categorically does not tolerate stagnant moisture in a pot. The soil is moistened regularly, allowing it to dry 2–3 cm deep. This is easy to check by sticking a toothpick into the substrate. The intervals between waterings vary depending on what the weather is like outside. In the heat, the peach will have to be watered daily or once every two days, the rest of the time - 2-3 times a week (during the ripening of the fruit, you can get by with one). Half an hour after the procedure, be sure to drain excess moisture from the pot.

    The plant needs the most abundant watering after leaving the dormant period, when leaf buds begin to “wake up”. As soon as flowering ends and fruit ovaries form, it is reduced. Waterlogging can cause the ovaries to fall off and the fruits to crack. During the wintering period, the peach is watered very rarely and moderately, once every 2.5-3 weeks.

    Water for irrigation is used soft, heated to room temperature. The one that flows from the tap must be defended for at least a day. Or you can speed up the sedimentation process by adding a few crystals of citric acid or 2-3 drops of apple cider vinegar to it.

    Rain water, as well as spring water, is ideal for watering peach

    After each watering, after about half an hour, the soil is loosened. It must not be allowed to turn into a crust on the surface of the soil. This prevents normal aeration of the roots and provokes moisture stagnation.

    Flowering and fruiting take a lot of energy from a tree. Therefore, top dressing for peach is strictly required. To do this, you can use organic fertilizers based on biohumus, and complex mineral preparations. But natural remedies are also suitable - infusions of wood ash, nettle leaves, dandelion. Fertilizers are applied every 12–14 days throughout the growing season. At the time of wintering, top dressing is stopped.

    Nettle leaf infusion is a natural source of nitrogen and phosphorus, before use it must be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:8

    The concentration is halved by the manufacturer. The volume of soil in the pot is limited, because of this, top dressing is not washed out of the soil. Moderate "overfeeding" for a peach is not dangerous - it will only cease to bear fruit, "concentrating" on building up green mass (sometimes such plants are called "fatting"). But regular excess of doses of fertilizer is already intoxication and quite likely death of the plant.

    The most important macro- and microelements for plants are phosphorus, potassium, calcium and copper. Nitrogen-containing fertilizers are applied only in spring, they help after the winter "hibernation" to stimulate the peach to intensive growth of green mass. Experienced flower growers, in order to provide it with everything necessary, advise spraying a tree once a month and a half, dissolving soda ash (4–5 g), copper sulfate (1.5–2 g), 2–3 crystals of potassium permanganate and a drop of iodine.

    Home-grown peach tree is sensitive to copper deficiency, copper sulfate solution will help to fill it.

    A neglected peach tree does not look very attractive and almost always refuses to bear fruit. Therefore, it needs regular pruning. Formation begins in about a year and a half, when the seedling reaches a height of 65–70 cm and several side shoots form on it.

    It is on them that the fruits ripen. Therefore, the upward growth of the tree must be slowed down. In principle, a florist is limited only by the height of the ceilings in his own apartment, but practice shows that the optimal height of a peach is 1. 5–1.7 m.

    First peach pruning - pinching off the top at the desired height. They do it in the fall. Next spring, last year's lateral shoots are shortened by 2–3 buds, stimulating more intensive branching. And they also get rid of all poorly located branches directed inward and down the crown. It is recommended to leave annually 6-8 of the most developed side shoots, and cut the rest to the point of growth. Branches older than ten years are also removed, they will no longer bear fruit.

    Video: peach pruning rules

    How to properly graft

    A peach seedling obtained from the stone, if its variety is known, can be used as a graft for a garden tree. And sometimes, on the contrary, it is grown as a stock for a varietal cutting. Vaccination is carried out in several ways, but, in any case, the tool used in the process must be disinfected and sharply sharpened. Sterility is also very important. The less the grower touches the cuts, the better.

    Split grafting

    The most common method, also among gardeners. The best time for the procedure is the beginning of spring. The graft (the part of the plant being grafted) and the rootstock (the plant being grafted) should be approximately the same diameter. The first must have at least three growth buds.

    Scion and rootstock should be approximately the same diameter, this does not only apply to peach

    Experienced gardeners recommend, if the "home" peach is to be used as a rootstock, to harvest cuttings for grafting in the fall. For the winter they are buried in the snow.

    The rootstock tree is cut off at a height of 25–30 cm. A vertical cut about 5 mm deep is made perpendicular to the cutting plane. The base of the scion cutting is cut at an angle on both sides, forming a V-shaped wedge.

    To speed up the process, the scion base is soaked for several hours in a solution of any biostimulant prepared according to the instructions. In addition to store-bought preparations (Epin, Zircon, Kornevin), you can use, for example, succinic acid, aloe juice. Practice shows that powder products give much worse results.

    Grafting into a split is the most popular method among gardeners and flower growers, it is possible to graft one or two cuttings at once. He must enter there with some effort. Then the entire structure is fixed by wrapping it with plastic wrap, adhesive tape, electrical tape, or coating it with garden pitch. If you do not wrap it tightly enough, the moisture from the tissues will simply evaporate, and the stalk will dry out. When a characteristic “influx” appears on the bark around the graft, called callus by botanists, the film can be removed.

    One of the main conditions for the success of grafting is reliable fixation of the structure

    There are other ways of grafting - combining oblique cuts on the scion and rootstock, grafting on the bark (if it is thick enough). The procedure is not fundamentally different from splitting, but the first method at home gives the best results. The last method at home is used extremely rarely - the process takes a long time, there is a high probability that the grafted stalk will simply break off after removing the polyethylene.

    Budding

    Budding is a slightly more complicated method that requires some experience from the grower. In fact, this is the same vaccination, but not a whole stalk is used as a scion, but only one growth bud. You can carry out budding at any time.

    The kidney is cut along with a layer of tissue 2–3 mm thick and 2.5–3 cm wide (the so-called scutellum). It is advisable to do this in one motion. In the process, try to touch her as little as possible. The instrument used is a scalpel or razor blade.

    It is advisable to cut the bud for budding in one motion, touching it as little as possible with your hands

    Next, an incision is made on the bark of the rootstock tree in the shape of the letter X or T, 1. 5–2 mm deep. If you gently bend the bark, something similar to a pocket is formed. The cut kidney is inserted into it, securely fixed with a strapping. It can be removed when callus forms, indicating that the procedure was successful.

    Fixing a bud to a scion requires the grower to have certain skills, if part of the bark sticks out of the "pocket", this is normal

    The result of the procedure will become clear in about 25-30 days. In addition to the formation of callus, the success is indicated by the activation of the growth of the cutting or the "awakening" of the kidney. If this does not happen, the winding is carefully removed, the scion is removed, the vaccination site is disinfected by washing with a 1% solution of copper sulfate, and covered with garden pitch.

    A growth bud that has taken root on a rootstock “wakes up” after about a month

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    Flower growers successfully cultivate peach trees at home and achieve fruiting from them.


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