How long to plant a tree


Tree Planting Guide: 3 Methods of Planting Trees | Davey Blog

You’re ready. You asked yourself all the right questions about what tree is best for you. You ventured out and hand-selected the perfect tree and found just the right place to plant it.

Now, you just need to know how to plant a tree. Let’s do this! Whether you’re planting a balled and burlap tree, a container-grown tree or a tree sapling, find step-by-step planting instructions below.

How to Plant a Potted Tree, Tree Seedling or Tree Wrapped in Burlap (Steps)

Before you begin, read these tree planting tips.

  • Plant your new tree as soon as you can to set your tree up for its best chance of survival. Otherwise, place it in a cool, dark place that’s away from wind and direct sunlight, and keep the soil damp.

  • Before you begin digging, contact your utility or gas company to make sure there are no pipes or wires there. In many states, this is required by law.

  • Pay extra-close attention when positioning the tree depth around the root flare. Planting the root flare too deep is the biggest tree planting mistake! Sometimes, you may have to partially remove the soil from the top of the container or root ball to even find the flare.

How long does it take to plant a tree?

Generally, a sapling can be planted in 15 to 30 minutes while container-grown or burlap trees take an hour to plant.

How do you plant a tree wrapped in burlap?

 

  1. To move your tree, roll it or hold it by the root ball– never the trunk or branches.

  2. Dig a saucer-shaped hole as deep as the root ball and at least twice as wide.

  3. Position your tree, so the area where the roots meet the trunk is at or slightly above the ground. That’s called the root flare. The biggest mistake we see is people planting new trees too deep. Also, make sure the ground beneath the root ball is solid beneath the root ball so that the tree doesn’t settle lower because of its own weight.

  4. Cut the twine and remove the burlap around the base of the trunk and the top of the root ball. It’s hard to tell the difference between synthetic and organic, and sometimes even organic burlap doesn’t decompose properly.

  5. Then, if there's a wire cage, remove at least the upper third of it. 

  6. Hold the tree upright and refill the hole with the soil you just removed. If the soil is lumpy, break it up a little before placing back in the hole. Then, pack it down to get rid of any air pockets. Add water as you backfill.

  7. Add 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch to the edge of the tree's canopy. Then, water again. 

  8. If your tree has a small root ball and seems to be top-heavy, stake it to provide enough support. Remove it after a year. 

How to Plant a Potted Tree and Tips for Planting Trees in Pots in the Ground

  1. An hour before you plant, water the tree to reduce transplant shock and make it easier to remove from the container.

  2. When moving the tree, grab and hold by the container–never the trunk or branches.

  3. Dig a saucer-shaped hole as deep as the container and 2 to 3 times as wide.

  4. To remove the tree from its planter, place it on its side. Because you just watered it, the tree should easily slide out when you tap the bottom of the container. If needed, tilt. Just be sure to support the trunk!

  5. Cut off any roots that are squishy or dead. If the roots look tangled, make several vertical cuts in the sides of the root ball and an X-shape cut in the bottom to loosen the roots. Straighten any roots that are circling the margins of the container as best you can. If the roots are much larger than when you first measured, see if you need to make the planting hole bigger.

  6. Position your tree, so the area where the roots meet the trunk is at or slightly above the ground. That’s called the root flare.

  7. Hold the tree upright, and refill the hole with the soil you just removed. Pack the soil to get rid of any air pockets.

  8. Add 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch, and water.

How to Plant Tree Seedlings Outside (Process of Planting a Sapling)

  1. Handle the sapling very carefully. It's very easy to cause root damage or accidentally break the sapling.  

  2. Dig a saucer-shaped hole as deep as the tree's roots system and 3 to 4 times as wide. 

  3. Remove any organic matter, like leaves or twigs, from the hole.

  4. Position your tree, so the area where the roots meet the trunk is at or slightly above the ground. That’s called the root flare.

  5. Hold the sapling upright, and refill the hole with the soil you just removed. Pack to get rid of any air pockets.

  6. Add 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch,  and water.

Your new tree is planted! Now, learn new tree care tips to help establish it.

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How to Plant A Tree the Right Way - 7 Steps for Getting it Right Every Time

With a little luck and good timing, sometimes simply sticking a tree in the ground and walking away can be enough for it to survive. But knowing how to plant a tree the right way, will ensure success every time. In my book, there are 7 steps for planting success which I share below.

Suffice it to say, I’ve learned these all-important st eps mostly by trial and error. It’s always the best way to learn, especially when it comes to gardening.

Trees have been described as the lungs of the earth for good reason. Without them, there would be no life on this planet. That’s reason enough to plant as many as we can. But when you learn just how important they are for so many reasons, you begin to understand my passion for trees and why we need more.

That’s led to a lifelong crusade to encourage people to plant more trees. Or even one. So it only stands to reason how thrilled I was to team up with Lands’ End recently to encourage everyone to #PlantATree in celebration of Earth Day this year.

So whether this is your first tree planting, or you’ve planted a forest by now, we’re always learning. Knowing how to plant a tree the right way — especially now, considering such unprecedented climate conditions — will ensure your efforts will not be in vain.

To give you the whole story, check out this video we created to walk you through how to plant a tree the right way, along with the 7-steps for getting it right every time.

The Best Time to Plant a Tree

Trees (and shrubs) can be planted any time of the year that you can dig the proper planting hole. However, there are better times than others for multiple reasons.

Suffice it to say, the more time you can put between when you plant a tree, and the arrival of summer, the better. That makes fall the very best time of year to relocate trees and shrubs or plant new ones. Early spring is a popular time as well.

An easy way to know if your hole is at the right depth is to take your shovel handle and lay it across the grade. The top of the root ball or tree flare should be at or above the handle level.

How to plant a tree the right way – follow these seven important steps:

-1. Prepare the proper planting hole. When preparing any hole for planting, make it three times wider than the current root mass but never deeper than the plant was growing in its previous environment.

An even better guide with trees is to look for the flare of the trunk near the soil level. Don’t place the tree in the planting hole so deep that any part of that flare is covered with soil. The truth is, even nurseries sometimes put plants in containers too deeply. There have been many times where I’ve actually had to pull away soil to find the base of the trunk flare and true surface roots. Make a habit of checking this.

-2. Plant high. I go even one step further by placing trees and shrubs in their new environment with up to 25% of the root ball higher than the surrounding soil level. I then taper soil up to cover all the roots and add a generous layer of mulch above that. Newly disturbed soil tends to settle and shrubs and trees planted at grade can quickly settle below grade and succumb to root rot or disease.

In my book, it’s always better to plant a tree or shrub slightly high and allow the area to drain away rather than for a plant to sit in a bowl and collect excess water.

Don’t be afraid to break up the roots of a pot plant tree or plant to free them of their circular growth pattern. In fact, you must. Failure to do so now (your last chance) can doom your plant to lackluster performance at best.

-3. Inspect the roots and disturb when necessary. Once the plant is out of its container, look at the roots. If they are densely bound in a circular pattern or have started growing in the shape of the container (even slightly), break up the pattern.

It’s vitally important to stop this pattern now. The biggest mistake you can make at this point is to place a rootbound plant into the ground as is. Unless you break up the pattern, you’ve likely sentenced the plant to a slow death. At a minimum, it will likely never establish or reach a fraction of its potential.

Don’t worry about hurting the roots or losing soil as you break the roots apart or even cut some away. Better to give them a fresh start than allow the constrictive pattern to only get worse below ground. While you don’t want to be any rougher than necessary, do what you must to arrest the pattern.

I often scratch my fingers across the sides and bottom of the root mass in mild cases. In more severe situations, I’ll slice up the roots vertically with a pruning saw, hack off the bottom inch or so, and or pull apart the root mass to clearly create new opportunities for non-circular new root development.

Unless you can dig a hole large enough for the eventual mature root zone and amend the entire area, simply backfill with the existing native soil.

-4. Don’t amend the soil. Contrary to traditional planting methods, contemporary research indicates that you should not amend the hole with additional organic material (unless you intend to amend the entire area where roots will eventually grow). Roots growing in amended soil rarely venture into harder native soil. The long-term affect is a smaller root system, reduced growth and a less hardy plant.

Instead, simply break up the clumps in existing soil, remove the rocks and backfill. Studies show plant roots growing in only the native soil actually did a better job at establishing and expanding beyond the original hole.

I find the best and easiest way to eliminate air pockets during planting is to blast the backfilled soil with a stiff stream of water after refilling the hole about half way. Then again after all the soil has been added back.

-5. Eliminate air pockets. While you could lightly tamp or hand-pack the soil around the plant roots to ensure good soil-to-root contact, I prefer to add a stiff spray of water to the hole after backfilling half way. Not only does it provide needed moisture but the water also helps eliminate air pockets that could otherwise result in dead roots or worse (without compacting the soil too much). Finally, water again gently but thoroughly once all the soil is in place.

-6. Add mulch. Starting about two inches from the trunk (leave this area exposed), place roughly two inches of organic matter such as shredded leaves, or ground bark or nuggets around the plant, at least out to the drip line. Further is better. Mulch helps retain much-needed moisture and helps keep roots cooler near the surface—a very important requirement for newly installed plants.

Perhaps the most important step during the planting process is to keep up with the watering until your plant is fully established. That can take longer than you think. Soaker hoses or drip irrigation on automatic times makes this an easy process.

-7. Water Properly Until Established. The most important job you will have after planting is to keep plants and trees well watered until established. This can take weeks to months, to even a year or more in some cases. But don’t worry. You can put this part of the process on auto-pilot. (I’ll tell you how below.)

The key to proper watering and establishment is slow and deep irrigation. It’s not practical to do that by hand. The only way to establish trees properly through irrigation is with soaker hoses or drip irrigation.

The slow and deep irrigation allows the soil around the roots to saturate, so the roots have time to absorb the moisture, while avoiding excess runoff. Short, manual blasts of water from an overhead hose or sprinkler system simply don’t come close to providing the same effectiveness for water delivery.

I water newly planted trees every day for about the first week. For the next two weeks, I ease off to about every other day. Then gradually ease back from there.

However, there’s a fine line between watering enough and watering too much—especially with large trees that arrive with root balls wrapped in burlap. These trees have lost all their feeder roots when dug from the ground. Providing adequate water is critical to their survival and establishment.

That said, I’ve killed more than one tree like this by overwatering. Even if you prepare a large planting hole, when drainage is poor, the root ball may be sitting in water and literally drown. There’s no easy way to know how wet the soil is deeper into the planting hole.

The best advice I can offer is to pay close attention to how the tree responds (and all your plants for that matter). While it’s common for them to lose up to half their leaves to transplant stress (a normal part of the process), more can indicate a potential problem.

If you sense the tree is responding poorly, and you are watering consistently, you’re likely over-watering. If the leaves are turning brown, drying up, and falling off, and the soil appears dry, water more.

To add to the challenge, soil that appears dry at the top may be very wet a few inches down. And the opposite is true as well. All the more reason it is important to apply your detective skills based on observation and knowing how much or little you’ve been watering.

In the first few weeks, soil that is moist but not soggy is your target range. And depending on what you’re using to deliver the water will affect how long you need irrigate per session. So there’s no simple answer.

Put Watering on Auto-pilot

One of the best time-savers you can find to lighten the load and put your irrigation duties on auto-pilot is to use soaker hoses and/or drip irrigation combined with portable battery-operated timers. I cannot stress the importance and time-saving benefits enough!

Fertilizing

If you plant to fertilize, I don’t suggest doing so until you know your trees or shrubs have taken to their new environment through successful establishment.

All energy should be concentrated on root development first. Adopt the walk-before-you-run approach. But even then, I still like to play it safe by using a slow-release, non-burning organic fertilizer that won’t over-tax my plants.

While all the above steps are essential, your active engagement in monitoring newly planted trees for signs of distress over time will be the ultimate deciding factor in your tree planting success. Make any necessary adjustments in real-time, and you can likely reverse a potentially downward spiral into a tree that will live a happy and very long life.

Please join me this Earth Day and let’s all #PlantATree.

About Joe Lamp'l

Joe Lamp'l is the Host and Executive Producer of the award winning PBS television series Growing A Greener World. Off camera, Joe dedicates his time to promoting sustainability through his popular books, blog, podcast series, and nationally syndicated newspaper columns. Follow Joe on Twitter

How to plant a tree - Lifehacker

May 15LikbezAdvice

Follow Lifehacker's advice, and the tree will definitely take root.

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How to find the best planting site

Most trees will thrive in flat areas where moisture does not stagnate. If there are no such conditions, you must first level the places of future landings - add or remove a layer of soil and walk along the surface with a rammer. Drainage at the bottom of the planting pit will cope with waterlogging of the soil.

Place the trees on the south and southwest sides to provide adequate lighting. It is also important to keep a distance between seedlings - as they grow, they should not obscure each other and interfere with development. Therefore, keep in mind what size they will reach in the future, and take this into account when marking out plantings so as not to get dense jungle instead of a beautiful garden.

For example, vigorous apple and pear trees can reach a height of 5-6 meters, so they should be placed 4-6 meters apart. The height of undersized ones, as a rule, does not exceed 2-3 meters, and they can be planted at a distance of 1. 5-3 meters. Plums, cherries, cherries, apricots and peaches need a distance of 3-4 meters.

At the same time, vigorous trees should be planted at a distance of at least 5 meters from residential buildings and 4 meters from the neighbor's fence. The distance for medium-sized people is at least 2 meters, for short people - at least 1 meter.

Think in advance where and what kind of trees you want to plant, and only then go for seedlings.

How to choose seedlings

For young trees, it is better to go to trusted sellers or specialized nurseries, which guarantee good quality seedlings and their conformity to the variety.

It is better to choose the so-called zoned varieties: they are specially bred taking into account the climate in different regions. For example, trees suitable for cultivation in the south are unlikely to overwinter in the central zone.

The optimal age of the seedling is from one to three years. Of course, older plants look prettier, and it seems that they will bear fruit faster. But the older the tree, the larger its root system. This means that it will suffer more from digging and transplanting to a permanent place, and this will not have the best effect on survival.

Seedlings can be sold with a closed and open root system. In the first case, they will be planted in pots or containers with soil. The roots of such trees are protected and continue to develop, so after landing in a permanent place, the tree will take root faster. Another plus is that such trees can be planted during the entire growing season.

Seedlings with an open root system lack these advantages. When choosing them, it is necessary to ensure that the roots are protected from drying out: they are covered with wet sawdust or are in a container with a special clay mash. The buds of such trees should be alive, but dormant.

Whichever root system you choose, pay attention to the condition of the trunk and root collar, where the roots directly connect to the trunk. They should not have mechanical damage, dark spots, traces of fungal diseases and rot.

Image: Garden Guide / YouTube

When to Plant a Tree

Close-rooted trees can be planted from early spring to late autumn, from April to October. In the spring, you have to wait until the snow melts, and the temperature stays above 0 degrees. In summer, avoid too dry and hot weather. But in the fall, you need to have time before frost.

Bare-rooted trees should preferably be planted in a dormant state, in early spring or late autumn, when the temperature does not fall below 0 degrees. At this time, the kidneys are asleep.

When choosing a time, be guided by the climate in your area. In the south, it is preferable to plant trees in autumn: the heat here can come already in early spring, and therefore young seedlings can get sunburned before they have time to fully take root. In the central regions, you can choose both seasons due to the temperate climate. But in the north, spring tree planting will be the best option - this way you will exclude the death of a fragile seedling from severe winter frosts.

In addition, it is important to remember that for planting in late autumn, only winter-hardy varieties should be selected. Otherwise, the tree runs the risk of freezing before it begins to take root.

How to store seedlings before planting

Seedlings with a closed root system do not require special preparation. If you do not have time to plant them in the fall, in winter they can be stored in the basement or on a glazed balcony at a temperature of 0 to 4 degrees Celsius.

With seedlings with an open root system, things are a little more complicated. If you buy them in late spring or summer, when the buds are already budding, plant the trees as soon as possible, rather than trying to save until autumn: this way they are more likely to survive. If you buy them in the fall and plant only in the spring, place the roots in plastic bags with damp peat or sand and send them to winter storage. All in the same basement or on a glazed balcony.

How to prepare a planting hole

For spring planting, it is better (but not necessary) to prepare a hole in the fall. So the soil has time to settle, and the nutrients are evenly distributed. For autumn gardening, you can prepare a hole at any time, starting in spring, but not less than a month before the planned planting of a tree in the ground.

Dig a hole of the right size

Image: Igor Bilevich / YouTube

The diameter of the planting hole should be twice the diameter of the seedling's root system, and the depth should be three times the length of the roots. When digging, you need to lay off the upper, fertile, layer of soil on one side, and the lower one on the other.

Make a drainage layer

Shot: Igor Bilevich / YouTube

This is necessary if groundwater is high on the site - in such cases it is often flooded in early spring. Expanded clay, broken brick or crushed stone is suitable for drainage. At the bottom of the pit, you need to put at least 10 cm of material. This will protect the roots of the seedling from rotting.

Fill in fertile soil

Shot: Igor Bilevich / YouTube

Mix the excavated topsoil in equal proportions with peat, compost or humus. If the soil in the area is clayey, you can add another part of the sand. For additional nutrition, add 50 g of wood ash and 15–20 g of nitroammophoska. Pour all the components together with the soil to the bottom of the pit, mix well again and pour plenty of water.

Wait for the ground to settle

This will take at least 14 days, or even better, wait a month. By this time, the soil will have time to settle down enough, and the planted tree will subsequently not go deep into the ground after rains and watering.

How to plant a tree

After the soil in the hole has settled, slightly loosen the soil at the bottom of the hole and start planting the seedling.

Place the tree in the hole

Shot: Igor Bilevich / YouTube

The root collar should be flush with the ground. If it is lower, there is a risk of rotting and even death of the tree.

In order not to make a mistake, you can put a long board or stick on top of the pit. If the neck is lower, add fertile soil to the bottom of the pit, if higher, dig out unnecessary soil.

Gently straighten the roots of the tree so that they point to the sides, not up. Sprinkle them with earth, slightly compacting the soil around the trunk.

Install the stake

Image: Hitsad TV / YouTube

Carefully drive the stake, 1.5-2 m long, into the soil so that it is stable enough, and tie the trunk to it. This will give the tree the support it needs until it gets stronger.

Water the seedling

Image: Hitsad TV / YouTube

Make a watering hole 5 cm deep, 20–30 cm in diameter, around the trunk by removing the soil from the center outward with a hoe or small spatula. Gently pour plain water into the hole in small portions, allowing it to soak. For a young tree, two buckets of 10 liters will be enough.

Mulch the trunk circle

Shot: Alexander Kvasha / YouTube

This technique will prevent the soil from drying out and prevent weeds from germinating. Peat, compost, dry leaves, wood chips or rotted sawdust are suitable as mulch. They need to be poured in a layer of 3-5 cm around the trunk along the diameter of the landing pit.

How to care for a tree

In the first year, caring for a young tree does not cause much trouble. It is enough to follow just a few simple rules:

  • Cover the trunk of the seedling from the root to the lower branches with garden whitewash to protect the young bark from sunburn.
  • Refrain from top dressing, because all the necessary nutrition was introduced when planting in the ground.
  • Periodically loosen the soil around the trunk and remove weeds.
  • In severe drought, water the tree liberally.
  • Remove young growth around the trunk so that the tree does not waste its energy on its growth.

Read also 🧐

  • How to grow a petunia to enjoy lush blooms all summer
  • How to grow lettuce in a garden bed or windowsill
  • When and how to plant seedlings in a greenhouse and open ground
  • 10 ways to make a greenhouse with your own hands

How to plant a tree correctly? Terms, fertilizers, care.

Photo - Botanichka

It would seem that a fairly simple task is to take and plant a tree. But in fact, this is a whole range of activities that you definitely need to know about and follow all of them. Otherwise, you can get a completely different result, which every gardener dreams of. With an incorrect, untimely planting of a tree, you can achieve a much smaller harvest or not wait at all, or, instead of the prescribed couple of years from planting to the first harvest, wait for fruits two or even three times longer. So what is the right way to plant a tree? We will talk about this in this article.

Young tree in the garden. © loftmag

Contents:

  • Dates for planting fruit trees
  • Nursery - the best place to buy
  • Each seedling has its own place
  • Distance between seedlings
  • Fertilizing the soil before planting
  • Landing hole features
  • How to place a seedling in a hole?
  • First seedling care

Dates for planting fruit trees

It is known that trees can be planted both in spring and autumn. The best time in spring is before bud break. In most parts of Russia it is April. In autumn, planting should be completed 15-20 days before the onset of stable cold weather. Usually trees are planted in October, when the soil is moist, it is no longer hot and not yet cold.

Knowing the timing of planting, everyone can decide for himself when it is more convenient for him to plant a tree. Naturally, there is less time in spring: there is a lot to do and it is not always possible to have time to plant a tree before bud break; autumn is a quieter time, and the choice of seedlings in nurseries is the largest. If you buy a tree in the fall, deciding to plant it in the spring, you will have to dig it somewhere and protect it from rodents.

Nursery - the best place to buy

The very first rule of planting any tree begins with choosing where to buy it. It is best to buy trees in nurseries. It is desirable that the nursery in which you are going to purchase a seedling has successfully existed in your city for at least a couple of years. It is in the nursery that you can buy a full-fledged seedling of any tree that matches the variety, does not have diseases and is not infected with pests.

However, even there, when buying, be sure to inspect the root system, the aerial part of the plant, and if you do not find rot, bark scuffs, overdried roots, then the seedling can be purchased. By the way, it is best to transport the seedling to your site by first dipping its root system in a clay mash, sprinkling the roots with sawdust and wrapping them in a plastic bag.

Each seedling has its own place

In order for a tree to grow successfully on your site, you need to choose exactly its place for it. The vast majority of trees will grow well in a lighted area, without shade, without depressions and depressions (places where melt or rain water accumulates), on soils with a groundwater level located no closer than two meters to their surface.

It's great if on the north side there is protection in the form of a wall of a house, a fence or another structure, not a single tree will refuse this. Choose a site where the crop you are planting has not grown before, or at least five or six years ago. Do not plant in place, say, apple trees again an apple tree and so on. Why?

It's simple: in addition to the fact that a certain type of crop sucks out of the soil its characteristic set of elements in the required quantity, it also "enriches" the soil with pests and diseases that hibernate or dormant, which are immediately activated as soon as that one is again in this place. same culture.

The type of soil is also important, because the optimal place is not only where it is light, even and moisture does not stagnate. The vast majority of trees will grow well only on nutritious and loose soil, such as black soil, loam and the like. You should not plant trees on sandy or very dense clay soil without preliminary preparation of the substrate: loosening (adding river sand or, for example, buckwheat husks) - this is the case with clay soil or, conversely, compaction (addition of loose clay to the soil, usually a bucket per square meter) - in the case of sandy soil.

The pH level, that is, the balance of acid and alkali, is also of course important. The best option is usually a pH of 6.0 to 7.0, if it is higher, then this soil is alkaline, lower - acidic, few trees like such soils. You can check the pH level with ordinary litmus paper by diluting a piece of soil in water and dipping it there. The color that the paper turns into will indicate the pH level. A set of litmus papers and a scale can be purchased at any garden center.

A young orchard. © alimex-as

Distance between seedlings

In this case, we are talking about a planting pattern. Trees, whatever they are, certainly do not like thickening. While the seedling is young with a thin stem and a couple of paces, it seems that a meter of free area is enough, but after five years, when a powerful above-ground mass is formed, the crown of your tree will begin to interfere with neighboring trees or shrubs, begin to reach for the light, may begin to bend or it will become ugly one-sided, and then nothing can be done with the tree - it's too late.

To avoid trouble, do not be greedy, plant large trees so that the distance from other trees is at least three meters, this should be enough for the full development of the crown.

Fertilizing the soil before planting

Before planting, when you have decided on the place and pattern, you need to properly prepare the soil. Outwardly, it seems that all the soil is the same, it is black or gray, closer to brown, and so on. In fact, the composition of the soil, one might say, is unique. In one area, only potassium can be enough to meet the needs of the tree, in another, nitrogen, and in the third, all three main elements will not be enough for the full development of the tree.

So, in order to level the risk of starvation of the tree after planting, the soil must be fertilized before planting. Fertilizers are usually applied for digging the soil, distributing well-rotted manure or humus over the surface (4-5 kg ​​per 1 m 2 ), wood ash (250-300 g per 1 m 2 ) and nitroammophoska (a tablespoon per 1 m 2 ). Usually these fertilizers are enough for the tree to begin to fully develop in a new place.

When preparing the soil, be sure to remove all weeds, especially the rhizomes of wheatgrass, they are the first competitors to the seedling, and at the initial stage of the tree's life, they should not be on a new site. Wheat grass, by the way, can restore its growth even if only one centimeter of its root remains in the soil.

Features of creating a planting hole

When the soil is ready, you can start creating planting holes. This procedure is simple, not complicated, but it has its own rules. For example, you need to dig holes, making the edges even, 25-30% larger than the volume of the tree's root system, and dig them at least a couple of weeks before planting a seedling.

Pre-digging the hole will allow the soil to settle before the seedling is placed in it, so there will be no unpleasant surprise in the form of a failed seedling a couple of days after planting. At the bottom of the hole, be sure to arrange drainage from expanded clay, broken brick or pebbles.

Drainage is loved by most trees, it will not allow water to stagnate at the root system and thereby prevent its decay. On top of the drainage, it is necessary to pour a nutrient layer, as gardeners call it, a nutrient pillow. It should consist of a mixture of humus and nutrient soil (usually the topsoil is the most nutritious) in equal proportions with the addition of 50 g of wood ash and 15-20 g of nitroammofoska. Before placing the root system of the seedling in the hole, it must be well watered.

Placement of the seedling in the planting hole. © orangepippintrees

How to place a seedling in a hole?

We proceed directly to the landing. So, the hole is ready, filled with fertilizers, watered and 12-14 days have passed, the soil has settled and you can plant a tree in a permanent place.

It is advisable to start planting with the installation of a support peg, it must be placed exclusively from the north side. The support peg is necessary to keep the tree upright at first, until the seedling gets stronger. After installing it, you need to pick up our tree and inspect its trunk well. On the trunk you can see the darker side and the lighter side.

The dark side is usually south, the light side is north. If you want the tree to quickly take root in a new place, you need to place it in this way: so that the darker side looks south, and the light side looks north. In this way, we will plant the tree as it grew in the nursery before, and the stress of replanting will be at least a little reduced.

Next, when planting, first lower the seedling into the hole and carefully straighten its roots so that they look to the sides, do not bend, break or point upwards from the hole.

In general, it is more convenient to plant any tree with two people, one person should hold it tightly by the trunk, the other should cover the roots with soil. When filling the roots with soil, try to twitch the seedling a little so that all the voids between the roots are filled with soil, and not with air. When planting, we advise you to compact the soil in layers, that is, they sprinkled lightly - compact a little, then again - poured soil, compact again, and so on, until the hole is filled.

It is extremely important when planting to ensure that the root neck (the place where the roots go into the trunk) is just above the soil surface, at least a centimeter or a little more. It seems that this is a trifle, in fact, if you deepen the root collar, the tree will immediately slow down in growth, and the entry into the fruiting season will be greatly delayed (in stone fruit crops, for example, the root collar may even rot, and the tree will simply die).

You should not let everything take its course, hoping for a “maybe”, even if you later “dig out” the root collar, then all the same, a depression and moisture form around it, falling on the soil surface, no matter with rain or irrigation, it will stagnate in this recess, and the root neck will also rot.

After the root system is completely sprinkled with soil, it is necessary to compact the soil, straighten the tree so that it stands vertically, tie it to a peg with a “figure eight” to prevent constrictions, then pour the soil with a couple of buckets of water and be sure to mulch the soil surface with a layer of humus in a couple of centimeters.


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