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Prunus subhirtella var. pendula6 reviews
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Weeping cherries will tolerate partial shade, but they do better in full sun, 6 or more hours of direct light a day.
Water your weeping cherry regularly when it is newly planted. Once established, cut back to watering on a weekly basis.
Fertilize after the tree has been growing for several years with a low-nitrogen fertilizer. Apply in early spring, before bud break.
Planting and Care
by Mary Van Keuren | Gardener (30+ Years Experience) – last update on December 2, 2021
The pink weeping cherry tree grows up to 25 feet wide. Plant your tree in an area with full sun. The soil should be moist, well-draining, and not prone to flooding. Dig a hole to a depth the size of the root ball and a width twice the size of the root ball. Leave a mound of soil centered in the hole to place the root ball on. Carefully place the tree into the hole on the mound. Cover with soil one or two inches above the crown.
Watering and nutrients
Water your tree when the soil is dry two inches deep below the surface. Place a water hose at the base of the tree on low and allow it to run for about 20 minutes. In the warm months, water your tree about twice a week. In the fall, water as needed. Refrain from fertilizing your cherry tree for the first two years. When it’s time to fertilize (early March), apply a low nitrogen fertilizer such as Dr. Jimz Chicken Soup For Soil.
Pruning this tree should be done in early spring or late fall. To prune your weeping cherry tree, remove dead, diseased, or broken branches. The key with pruning is to remove dead and overlapping branches, and get live branches up off the ground. You may also prune your tree to achieve a desired shape, but take care not to remove more than 25 percent of the total canopy.
To prune your tree, use clean, sharp, disinfected shears. Locate branches with dead (gray) buds and trim as far back as possible. Then trim back overlapping branches, as well as live bud branches touching the ground.
Pests and diseases
Weeping cherry trees are fairly resistant to diseases and pests. However, some fungal diseases can occur. These diseases include canker, black knot, dieback, leaf spot, leaf curl, powdery mildew, root rot, and fire blight. To avoid these diseases, clean up fallen leaves regularly. Leaves that get left on the ground to overwinter create an environment for fungal spores, which can infect the tree in the spring.
Pests such as aphids, scale, borers, leafhoppers, caterpillars, spider mites, and Japanese beetles can be managed/controlled with Bonide Neem Oil. Because weeping cherry trees are prone to these diseases, having a qualified arborist evaluate your tree regularly can help keep it healthy.
Does the weeping cherry tree produce fruit?
Yes, the tree produces a black, oval-shaped inconspicuous fruit. The berry is very small (about the size of a pea). Its flesh is intensely sour and surrounds a seed. The sourness makes this fruit unfit for human consumption. Wildlife, however, including birds, squirrels, deer, and small animals feed on the berries. This tree’s fruit does not pose a ground litter issue.
What does it mean when gardening experts refer to the weeping cherry tree as a grafted variety?
The scion of a weeping cherry tree is grafted onto a lower trunk of Prunus avium. This trunk is known as a “rootstock” or “understock.” Varieties of cherry trees are created using the grafting method (combining plants to incorporate features into one variety). The grafted scion becomes the umbrella form at the top of a weeping cherry tree.
Are weeping cherry trees safe to have around small children and pets?
Plants belonging to the Prunus spp. (Rosaceae family) are toxic not only to household pets, but also to humans, cows, horses, sheep, and goats. Cyanogenic glycosides are present in the stems, leaves, and seeds of a weeping cherry tree. When ingested, the body converts the cyanogenic glycosides into hydrogen cyanide which causes suffocation. The fruit of this tree is not toxic but it is non-edible for humans.
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Verified Buyer May 20, 2021 at 12:46am
Pink Weeping Cherry Tree Review
I ordered two. The delivery service was two days late in delivering it, though had they followed through with their schedule, it would have been 4 days late. The packaging was great and protected the trees well. The burlap sacks the trees came in made planting them a breeze. One tree is doing well, but the other is struggling really hard. I think it's because they were left in a cardboard box in a warehouse or on a truck longer than they should have been. I'm giving them a 5 star review because it wasn't the tree farm's fault that they weren't delivered on time. The trees, once they start growing, will make a beautiful addition to my yard and the neighborhood. As far as shipping, if you can get expedited shipping, it might be worth the expense to help the trees out. I went for standard shipping.
Verified Buyer April 28, 2021 at 1:39am
Very good customer service. Tree is smaller than I thought.
Verified Buyer July 21, 2020 at 2:57pm
I was worried for the first month because I thought it was going to die, but finally last week it turned the corner and is beautiful!
Verified Buyer June 2, 2020 at 10:02pm
Not Weeping over the tree we bought.
It was received as ordered. 4-5 feet tall. So far we like it, now we will just have to see how well it grows where we put it. Over all very satisfied.
Verified Buyer May 26, 2020 at 7:51pm
Excited and Happy
The tree arrived in fairly good condition quickly! It had some green sprouts on the limbs and it was in a nice pot with moist soil. We planted it within a few days and it is still in shock. But we're excited to watch it flourish and grow. Fingers crossed as it is planted in the perfect place in our huge garden! When it is growing, it will be visible from everywhere!
Verified Buyer May 16, 2020 at 4:09pm
Great start so far
We got the Pink Weeping Cherry Tree (small) and so far so good! We've had a few bad storms lately with tons of rain and wind and the little tree is holding on great! I think we'll have to wait for a long while to see this tree grow large, but if it's anything like the pictures I can't wait!
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Trees and shrubs predict the weather
Trees and shrubs predict the weather
Of course, predicting the weather from the leaves of a tree is an outdated and unfashionable method, but people who live in close contact with trees begin to understand their habits and moods. Therefore, every avid mushroom picker knows that it is going to rain if the maple leaves curl up and expose the lower surface to the fresh wind.
Many folk signs of the coming weather are associated with change in the color of leaves on trees and the time of their fall. Friendly leaf fall - to a harsh winter. Late leaf fall - also to a harsh winter. The wind turns the leaves on the trees upside down - to the rain. And if yellow leaves appear on the trees in summer, then early autumn will come.
The ability of a natural barometer is also possessed by dry wood . The oak grove rustles in bad weather. The crackling of the trees in the forest intensifies to the heat. If in calm weather the forest makes a lot of noise, in summer - to rain, in winter - to thaw.
Unusually noisy winter forest - to the thaw. If the forest suddenly rustled in frost, wait for the thaw. Noisy coniferous forest - wait for the thaw.
In addition to the sounds of the forest, you should also pay attention to how the forest looks. Trees in hoarfrost - the sky will be blue. The forest turns black - to thaw, gray - to frost. The air above the forest turns blue - to heat.
White and yellow locust
Watch the yellow locust. Before clear and dry weather, yellow acacia flowers have very little sweet nectar. A little flies on her and insects: there is no food for them. During bad weather, bees hide in acacia bushes and do not fly away to the apiary - to good weather.
With the approach of bad weather, before the rain, so much nectar is released in the flowers of acacia that the aroma is felt hundreds of meters away. it was then that a particularly large number of bees and other insects circled around it. The flowers smell strongly, the corollas are open, the pistils move apart and a drop of honey is visible in the center of the flower - before bad weather. The flowers smell very strongly on a sunny morning (usually they smell only in the evening), there are many bees and other insects over the bushes - soon it will rain with a thunderstorm.
Birch is the most common hardwood in Russia. It is also a whole factory of phytoncides. Its tender leaves emit so many of them that all pathogens are killed in the entire space around the tree.
Birch is an excellent guide. It is very photophilous, its bark is always whiter and cleaner on the south side. Cracks, bumps, outgrowths are formed, as a rule, on the northern one. This is so noticeable that it is easy to navigate along the birch bark even in the depths of the forest.
Finally, for many centuries, folk weather science has accumulated a lot of signs associated with birch.
Do you want to know what summer will be like today? Take a closer look at the birches: they grow down before the maple - dry, later - rainy. If in the spring the birch leaves the leaves before the alder, the summer will be dry, and if the alder blossoms first, the cold and rain will torment. A rainy summer happens if a lot of juice flows from a birch in spring. In the spring, birch sap is tasteless - bread will be born.
And what will spring be like, birches tell in autumn. The leaves begin to turn yellow from the top - wait for early spring, from below - late, and if evenly - medium.
And birches predict winter. In early October, the leaf did not fall from it - the snow will fall late. And if in due time everything falls off, then in late January - early February there will be a long thaw. If on Pokrov (October 14) a leaf from birch and oak falls cleanly - by an easy year, and not cleanly - by a severe winter.
It is no coincidence that folk agronomy, taking into account the calendar of nature and relying on centuries of experience, teaches not to miss deadlines when to sow, when to reap, when to throw stacks.
This oats, when the birch blossoms.
Until the cherry tree leaves fall, no matter how much snow falls, winter will not come.
The oak is blooming - it's time to sow peas. This buckwheat when the grass is good.
There are many fruits on the oak - for a harsh winter.
In October, birch and oak leaves do not fall cleanly - wait for a harsh winter, cleanly - for a warm and mild winter.
Oak leaves before ash - by dry summer.
In a storm, if you listen carefully, the oak groans.
Coniferous trees have a remarkable feature: they lower their branches down before rain and lift them up before clear weather, which is especially evident in spruce. Spruce lowers its branches before the rain, the scales of its cones shrink, and before clear weather, the branches rise up. Observant Siberian taiga people have long been fairly accurate in determining the upcoming weather by the state of the crown of fir trees.
Do you know that spruce branches in your apartment can also serve as a barometer? A pair of branches attached to the wall can predict the weather: the approach of bad weather makes the branches come closer, and when the weather improves, the branches will diverge.
No smell from flowering bushes (or barely perceptible) - good weather.
Before the rain, drowsiness and honeysuckle are covered with insects. Honeysuckle flowers emit a particularly strong aroma before rain, and generally lose their aroma before drought. The flowers on the shrub do not smell, at night the smell of flowers is barely perceptible - for good weather. Before the rain for 15-20 minutes, the honeysuckle bushes begin to exude a strong smell.
Drops of sticky liquid flow down from the petioles and leaves, the “weeping” of the plant is observed – 1-2 days before the rain.
Maple leaves begin to “shed tears” even 3-4 days before bad weather, releasing droplets of juice at the base of the cuttings.
Bushes Drupes hiding in the shade of trees straighten their usually rounded leaves 15-20 hours before rain. The leaves of the drupe twist down - to good weather, unwind - to rain.
Few insects on flowering trees - to dry weather. Far from the tree, the smell of honey is felt - to the rain.
Larch needles unfold in clear weather, become wider, with a groove in the middle, and shrink in rain, becoming rounded.
Juniper blossoms in May - time to sow barley. The shoots extending from the trunk bend, the angle between the trunk and the shoot increases - to good weather.
There is a “weeping” of plants – for rain.
By flowering aspen, you can determine the period of early sowing of carrots. Aspen in fluffy earrings - for the harvest of oats. Fluff flew from the aspen - go for the boletus.
There is a “weeping” of plants - for rain.
Sorbus ordinary got into the number of long-term forecasters. This is a ubiquitous tree. Forest beauty - mountain ash can be fragrant with flowering for more than two months. The white caps of her honey-bearing flowers are an accurate harbinger of a change in weather to persistent heat.
There are signs: the beginning of the flowering of mountain ash to gardeners decree: you can sow cucumbers.
Rowan blossoms well - for the flax harvest.
Late flowering of mountain ash leads to a long mushroom autumn.
If there are a lot of fruits on the mountain ash in the summer - the autumn will be rainy, if there are few fruits - a dry autumn is foreseen.
Large harvest of mountain ash - for a frosty winter.
During the day, a lot of bees and other insects over flowering trees - to clear weather.
The smell of lilac is weak and is not felt at some distance from the bush - to good weather. The flowers begin to smell strongly - 15-20 minutes before the rain.
Plants have no smell - for hot weather. There was a smell from bushes, flowers - 15-20 hours before rain. The flowers began to smell especially strongly, there are a lot of bees above the bushes - 15-20 minutes before the rain.
If you listen carefully, the pine rings in the storm.
There is a “crying” of plants - a few hours before the rain.
And the flowering of bird cherry determines the period of early sowing of potatoes. There are two cold weathers in May: when the bird cherry blossoms and when the oak blossoms. When bird cherry blossoms, it is always cold.
In the daytime, there are many bees and other insects over flowering bushes - by clear weather.
LONG TERM WEATHER FORECAST
Late spring. In autumn, the leaves on the trees begin to turn yellow from below. Bird cherry and mountain ash bloomed later than usual.
Summer is short and warm. Bird cherry, mountain ash, dandelion bloomed earlier than usual.
Summer is dry and hot. Leaves on birch appeared earlier than on alder and maple, and on oak later than on ash.
Summer is cold and rainy. A lot of juice flows from maple and birch. Leaves on birch appeared later than on alder and maple, and on oak earlier than on ash.
Warm and long autumn. Rowan blossomed late.
Early autumn. In the first days of August, the leaves on the trees began to turn yellow.
Rainy autumn. There are many fruits on the mountain ash in the forest.
Cold winter. Low yield of mushrooms, cones, acorns. The leaf fall began from the top of the trees, the leaves from the birch and oak did not fall completely.
Winter is warm, with thaws. Leaf fall began from the lower branches of trees. Leaves from birch, oak and other trees fall together and completely. A lot of acorns on the oak, mushrooms in the forest, sorrel.
Long winter. Willow covered with frost early.
Prepared by Arina Mitrofanova
7 most important questions about growing cherries
We answer the most common questions that arise when growing cherries, not only for beginners, but also for experienced gardeners.
First of all, cherries do not like loneliness. And all because many of their varieties are not capable of high-quality self-pollination. Therefore, planting just one tree and enjoying a bountiful harvest every year is unlikely to succeed. A tree of a different variety must certainly grow nearby, flowering at the same time.
But that's not all. If your goal is a good harvest of large and juicy berries, follow our advice.
1. When is it better to plant cherries - in autumn or in spring?
In the middle lane, it is recommended to plant cherry seedlings in the spring before the buds swell (in early to mid-April), because. at this time, the trees are better rooted and acclimatized. When planting in autumn, there is a high probability of freezing of immature plants in winter.
But it is best to buy seedlings in the fall, because. at this time, planting material is dug up in nurseries and you can find seedlings of almost any variety. In the spring, they mostly sell what they could not sell in the fall. It is not difficult to save cherry seedlings bought in October until spring. To do this, they need to dig in.
The first step is to choose a place where snow lingers the longest in spring. Dig a trench 30-50 cm deep and lay the seedlings with crowns to the south at an angle of 45 degrees. Properly cover the root system and about a third of the trunk with earth. Water the soil generously. To protect against the ubiquitous rodents, cover the dug seedlings with spruce branches (needles outward). In winter, do not forget to throw snow on the dig - this will help protect the seedlings from frost.
2. At what distance should cherry trees be planted?
Bush varieties of cherries are planted at a distance of 2-2.5 m from each other. Tree-like forms require more space. They should be settled approximately 3-3.5 m from each other, as well as from other trees and shrubs.
An ideal site for planting fruit and berry trees should be spacious enough and not built up around the perimeter so that the so-called air drainage is provided, i. e. outflow of cold air. Before laying your own garden, you should evaluate the characteristics of the soil, the illumination of the site, and only then select the appropriate tree varieties. Cherries take root well on the plains, feel good on the southern and southwestern gentle slopes. They like neutral moderately sandy soils and loams, but they do not particularly like peat-bog lands, as well as areas flooded during floods.
Before planting, the soil from the dug hole is mixed with humus and mineral fertilizers. Up to 20 kg of humus, about 70 g of potash and no more than 300 g of phosphate fertilizers can be added to one planting hole. It is also recommended to add up to 1 kg of ash. If the soil is heavy clay, then you can add 1.5 buckets of sand. After planting around the stem circle of the seedling, it is desirable to form a roller that prevents the spread of water during irrigation. On average, immediately after planting, one young plant requires 20-30 liters of water.
3. Should I mulch the soil around the tree?
Mulch helps retain moisture and prevents the soil from crusting. Therefore, mulched trees need less watering and better tolerate hot, dry weather. In addition, fewer weeds grow under a thick layer of mulch, which makes it much easier to care for the soil under the trees.
The trunk circle of a cherry is usually mulched with humus, compost, grass clippings, hay, shredded bark, or other organic materials. Moreover, the mulch is laid out in a layer of 8-10 cm, stepping back from the trunk at least 10 cm.
Autumn mulching will protect the roots of cherries from freezing, because. under a layer of mulch, the soil does not freeze through so much.
4. How and when to feed cherries?
Top dressing of young trees begins a year after planting. By that time, they will take root properly and absorb the bulk of the nutrients from the adjacent soil. It is important to observe the dosage and frequency of fertilizer application. Mineral fertilizers need to be applied every year, and organic - every two to three years.
In the second year after planting, it is recommended to add 100 g of urea to the near-stem circle for digging. In the third year - 180-200 g of urea or about the same amount of ammonium nitrate must be dissolved in half a bucket of water and pour this composition over the cherry that wakes up after winter. In the fourth year, autumn feeding can be added to spring feeding (180-200 g of urea). In mid-August or early September, 250-300 g of superphosphate and 110-120 g of potassium sulfate should be distributed on the surface of the near-stem circle, and then dig the soil to a depth of 8-10 cm. phosphorus-potassium (3 tablespoons of superphosphate and 1.5 tablespoons of potassium chloride per 1 sq.m of the trunk circle), as well as organic fertilizers (20-40 kg of humus or compost).
Fertilizers containing boron or gibberellic acid can be used to increase fruit set. Among experienced gardeners, a drug called Universal Ovary is popular, which reduces the amount of barren flowers, ensures the early formation of ovaries, and prevents them from shedding. Top dressing of this kind is carried out once a year during the flowering period at the rate of 2 g per 1.5-2 liters of water.
To improve the quality of fruits and provide additional resistance to mechanical damage, some gardeners practice foliar top dressing with micronutrient fertilizers, for example, calcium nitrate, at the rate of 25-30 g per 10 liters of water.
Calcium nitrate must be applied before bud break. It is important to remember that it is incompatible with superphosphate.
When the roots and the ground part of the tree freeze, as well as when there is a danger of infection with diseases or damage by pests, foliar top dressing is carried out with a 0.5% urea solution. The first top dressing can be carried out a couple of weeks after flowering, and the second - another two to three weeks later.
If you want to get natural and really healthy berries, you should not get too carried away with artificial dressings. Any fertilizer should be applied with caution, as an overabundance of them can be more dangerous than a lack.
5. How to properly water cherries?
As already mentioned above, rooted cherries do not require regular watering, because. refers to drought-resistant crops. However, additional soil moisture will certainly affect its fertility, and hence the yield of trees. But watering should not be too frequent, because. in this case, the air will be forced out of the soil, and, as a result, the growth and development of your green pets will decrease.
Irrigation phases are best correlated with the annual life cycles of trees: 1st watering - immediately after flowering, 2nd watering - during the formation of ovaries, 3rd watering - after harvesting and 4th watering - on the eve of winter, but not later than mid-October. Young trees need 2-3 buckets of water, adults will need a little more - about 5-7 buckets.
6. Do I need to trim the cherry?
If the cherry is "registered" on your site not as an ornamental plant, it is necessary to cut and thin out a dense crown, since the berries are formed mainly in bouquet branches. Pruning cherries is necessary in the spring before flowering. If the winter was harsh, it is better to postpone the procedure until the kidneys awaken. The main task during pruning is the formation of skeletal branches and the opening of the center of the crown.
Pruning trees is a bit like building. First, the lower tier is "laid" in the form of three main branches. A little higher, the next "floor" is formed from five or six branches, etc. Branches growing at an acute angle are either cut out or rejected with the help of special spacers, trying to give them a position close to horizontal. Most gardeners prefer to limit the tree in growth at about 2.5-3 m. At the same time, the central stem - the conductor - should be about 20 cm higher than the upper branches.
Fruiting trees are thinned out only slightly, and dying or weak branches are cut off, leaving the most conveniently located side branches. This contributes to the formation of young bouquet branches and, as a result, leads to abundant fruiting.
Cherry pruning - forming the right crown year after year
How and when to prune cherries so that they constantly please with a good harvest.
7. How to prepare cherries for winter?
Cherry tolerates snowy and frosty winters relatively well. But frequent alternations of frost and thaw can destroy not only young, but also adult fruit-bearing plants. To avoid sad consequences due to temperature fluctuations, the preparation of trees for the cold season begins in September.
First of all, it is necessary to apply phosphorus and potash fertilizers so that the tree can properly prepare for the winter and does not experience nutritional deficiencies during the spring awakening. For this purpose, you can use ready-made mineral complexes, for example, Universal. If you prefer monopreparations, add 20-30 g of potassium chloride and 30-45 g of superphosphate to the trunk circles, then carefully water the trees. On acidic soils, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are easy to replace with ash.