How much does it cost to relocate a tree


Cost to Move a Tree

Cost to Move a Tree
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Highlights

  • Cost to transplant trees is typically $300–$10,000.

  • Tree size and move distance are key pricing factors.

  • Transplanation works best if the tree is young/small.

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Professional tree transplantation rates start at around $400, but complex long-distance moves of large trees in tricky areas run into six-figure sums, and this makes it more expensive than the cost of tree removal alone. 

If you’ve been nurturing a prized or sentimental ornamental tree in your backyard for years, and you’re wondering if you can take it with you, it is possible. The cost of moving trees varies considerably depending on the tree size and age, accessibility, and new location.

Low CostAverage CostHigh Cost
$200$800$50,000

How Much Does It Cost to Move a Tree by Size?

Size is the biggest factor in determining the price to transplant a tree (along with the distance it has to travel). The price to transplant a small 5- to 10-foot ornamental tree with a trunk width (caliper) of less than 2 inches and move it to another position within the same yard is typically around $300 to $500.  

Big trees (with a caliper over 10 inches) that have sprawling branches and giant root balls usually exceed the size that a hydraulic spade is capable of lifting. Digging these trees out by hand commands a premium price. Expect to pay upwards of $1,500, even if the pros are moving it within the same yard, and $5,000 plus to move it to a site miles away.

“Mega-trees” have a chunky trunk width of over 24 caliper inches. Pros often have to resort to unconventional techniques and equipment to move these. They may need to lift large trees over houses via crane or use customized frames to support large, delicate root balls during transport. 

When these trees need to go a far distance after excavation from a tricky site, this is when prices start to be prohibitive for the average homeowner, often exceeding $50,000

Moving a Tree Cost Breakdown

Photo: IP Galanternik D.U./E+/Getty Images

Because of the many variables, pricing is usually done on a case-by-case basis by the professionals. Below are some of the major factors which can help you understand if it seems a fair price and a worthwhile endeavor.

Distance of Move

The bigger the tree and the further the distance it has to travel, the higher the costs. Moving a small tree from one area in your yard to another costs less than moving it over 50 or 100 miles across the state. From around $300 for the simple move by hand, it suddenly shoots up to $1,500 or more to transport it safely across the distance.

Equipment

Professional arborists often dig out small trees by hand and use a hydraulic tree spade for larger specimens. Bringing this equipment onsite increases the price by at least $500 to $1,000. If they also need a truck to transport the tree (after tarping and tying it), it adds extra expense. Removing a larger tree with a spade to an offsite location by truck often costs $10,000 or more.

Accessibility

Arborists look for potential hurdles to overcome in the environment when tree transplanting. 

Some stumbling blocks that may increase their rate include:

  • Obstructions in the original or new site such as power lines, underground utilities, large rocks

  • Having to trim back branches

  • Difficult site access

Conditions

Pros usually charge more if ground conditions are less than ideal. They’ll be looking for dry, easy-to-dig soil on a level site. Clay soils are hard to dig, and if the soil is frozen or wet and muddy, this makes things challenging too.

Ongoing Support

The right aftercare, especially in the first year or two, can be the difference between the tree thriving or dying in its new spot. Many arborists offer follow-up support after transplantation. They’ll often look at things like watering, root fertilization, and physical support. 

Of course, this add-on service comes at a price. Expect to pay around $100 to $350 per follow-up visit—and more for multiple tree transplantation.

Cost to Move a Tree Yourself

You can enjoy considerable savings by transplanting a tree yourself, but you won’t be getting the expert knowledge a certified arborist has for making a move as stress-free for your tree as possible, and it’s not just your back you’ll be putting at risk.

For small trees (typically under 10 feet and with a trunk less than 2 inches wide), you might not have to spend anything. If you already have the basic tools, you can carefully dig the root ball out—although you may need the help of a friend or family member or two when moving it.   

It’s possible to hire a hydraulic tree spade for around $300 to $400 per day. However, these tree relocation machine costs might not amount to huge savings when compared to hiring a professional. Plus, you have the added complication of learning how to use it safely and appropriately. You don’t want to risk damaging the tree or the land around it.

Big, mature trees are usually best left to the professionals to transplant. Not only is it safer (especially if you need specialized equipment and you have to negotiate around utilities), but your tree is more likely to survive the process. 

The pros can also provide you with the right advice regarding appropriate and important aftercare. And don’t forget that you should only move many species at particular times during the year.

Tree Transplanting Cost Questions and Answers

How do I find a reputable and cost-effective tree transplanting professional?

Getting a tree pro with the right experience can be the difference between your transplanted tree surviving or not. When hiring a local tree transplanting and removal service, follow up on references, check their portfolio, ask for a breakdown of the costs, and get proof of liability and workers’ compensation insurance. 

Also, look for companies certified by the International Society of Arboriculture or registered with the Tree Care Industry Association and make sure they have an appropriate state or city license.

Is moving my tree worth the cost?

You’ll have to balance up the cost, the value of the tree (sentimental or otherwise), and the risk factors. An experienced arborist will help you understand whether transplanting is likely to be successful. 

The cost and hassle of transplanting a large, well-established tree are often not worth it if you don’t have a strong sentimental attachment to it, especially if the species is fast-growing and easy to source.

Much depends on the age and species of the tree, the conditions in the new site location, and how careful the company is when digging out and moving the tree.  

If you have a tall tree, don’t forget to check if you need a permit in the new location or if the local authorities have any tree planting restrictions. The last thing you want is to pay to have the tree moved, only for it to have to come down.

Will my tree die if I try to move it? 

Many species, especially when well-established, are not fans of transplantation. You’ll need to decide if you want to risk splashing the cash, understanding that transplantation isn’t always successful.

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Note: These pricing methods do not apply to orchard settings. For orchard pricing or if you’re ready to have your tree moved, please fill out this form so we know what we’re dealing with and we’ll be in touch with an approximate price. But it would be helpful if you read this article so you know what to expect :)

(For information on the likelihood of a tree surviving a transplant check out this article.)

So you want to relocate a tree. But what does it cost to relocate a tree? And who the heck can do it? Well, the answer to the latter question is at least a certified arborist. 70+ years experience in the field as large tree relocating experts and four generations in arboriculture doesn’t hurt either (Hint: that’s us!). And if the business of tree moving had roots you would find they run right through our modest property in Salem, Oregon. 

The answer to the primary question of cost is a little less obvious. Like many service-based businesses the answer is an annoying “It depends. ” Moving a tree is dependent on a number of variables and can cost anywhere from $100 to six figures. Sometimes more. Our only limitation is your budget. If you want the tree moved to the moon we can do it. We won’t guarantee it will survive but we can make it happen.

In this article, I’m going to present seven hypothetical scenarios, each highlighting specific variables and site conditions that contribute to how we formulate a price. At the end of the article, you should have a good idea of where your project fits and an estimated price range. Let’s dig in. 

The species and size are the first components we look at as they will tell us what we need to know to employ the best methods. Generally speaking, any tree with a trunk-diameter (caliper) under 10” is movable with a spade. Whatever we can’t move with a spade, we’ll use good old fashioned labor and heavy equipment to dig and transport it. 

In this first hypothetical we’re going to assume all conditions are ideal. The ground is dry, solid, relatively level, the soil is easily diggable, there are no obstructions to our access to the tree or the planting site, we don’t have to trim any branches, there are no power lines we need to maneuver around, and within Salem, OR city limits we’re traveling up to 10 miles from point A (tree pickup) to point B (planting site). Let’s use a Maple tree in this example. 

This Maple is 13’-15’ tall with a 5” caliper trunk. It’s alone in the middle of your yard and you want to move it closer to your fence to block the view of the road and closer to a few other tree friends. It’s a relatively quick dig. We first dig out a “plug” in the location you have selected, dump the plug next to the tree to be moved, dig out the tree with our spade, place it in the previously excavated hole, then fill the previous location of the tree with the plug. Easy peasy. 

We’re adding $400(+/-) on the invoice for that one tree. 

Now let’s imagine you’ve got a 15’-18’ Cedar with a 5.5” caliper trunk. But instead of ideal conditions, there are a few obstructions that make things a little more difficult. As with all digging projects, locating underground utilities is a necessity. And in this case, we find that a gas line runs right through the rootball. We will have to coordinate with the gas company to come out and decommission that line before we dig up the tree then have them repair it before we backfill the hole.  

Fortunately, conditions are still dry and even though it is sitting on a slope our truck can drive to and wrap the spade around the tree. But once we start digging we discover that the spade hits a large rock. Our machine operator and crew tried to remove it themselves but couldn’t even do it with a shovel and their best deadlift technique. So we’ll need to bring in another crew member with a backhoe. 

Our invoice will read somewhere in the neighborhood of $450-$1450 for this job. 

In this example, we’ll use a 25’-30’ Ornamental Oak with a 9” caliper trunk. We’re using our biggest spade and the minimum price to get the spade onsite is $800. This job is on the more complicated end and this particular oak has a canopy structure that requires trimming for our spade to gain access. Not only is the tree sitting on a slight slope but it has been raining all week and the ground is wet and muddy and to get from the main road to the tree itself requires laying down plywood and traction plates under the tires as we go to make sure our cement truck-sized vehicle doesn’t get bogged down in the mud. A better time of year would be ideal but that helicopter pad you’re building is on a deadline and the tree needs to move. Now. And as this requires prioritizing your job over others, priority rates will apply. 

So here we are. And your landscape architect decided the tree would look good at one of your developments 29 miles out of town where we have already dug out a plug for this tree. After digging the plug (we also had to use traction plates here), driving back to the pickup location, digging up the tree, tarping and tieing the branches down for transport so that the tree doesn't get windburnt, driving back to the development, planting it in its new home, then backfilling the pickup location you’re looking at around $3,600. 

*We're also going to use guy wiring and stakes to keep it in place and make adjustments as required for a year after or so because this part of town is known for windy conditions and the weight of the rootball may not be sufficient to keep the tree in place. $500-$800 for the entire year. 

Hand digging is used when the trunk diameter exceeds the spade’s capacity or if a spade can’t access a tree.

For example, you have an 8’ tall Weeping Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum dissectum) with a 5” caliper trunk and a 16’ diameter canopy that is right next to your house and you want it moved to a different part of your property. Spade access is ruled out because of the branch structure and your single level roof overhang. We may not want to use a spade anyway because trimming enough to get the spade around it will diminish the aesthetic and will take years to regain its former beauty. So digging it out by hand is the better option. 

It will be labor-intensive and require a skid steer (bobcat) and maybe a truck and trailer depending on site conditions. We’ll also need to care for the rootball and wrap it up so it doesn’t crack during transport. An experienced crew under ideal conditions should be capable of digging the tree up, wrapping the rootball, getting it ready for transplant, planting it in its new location, backfilling the hole left by the tree, and cleaning everything up in one day. For that, you’re looking at approximately $2500.

*The same tree transported 50 miles away would be a different story. We would need to prep it for transport which would include tying it down, wrapping a tarp around it so it doesn't get windburnt, and acquiring an "over-width" permit to make it street legal. Between the above expenditures and the time to prep the new site, an additional $4,500 or so would not be unreasonable. 150 miles? Bump it up to $15,000ish

Okay. Third to last example. Grandma planted an Ornamental Maple in the back yard that has grown to 40’ over the years. It’s sentimental and you don’t want to cut it down. Plus it’s pretty. But it would really look better in the front yard. And it happens to be inconveniently placed right where you’ve always wanted to build an addition to your home. The problem here is that we can’t get a spade to it and we can’t lift it with a bobcat. Even if we could, it’s not going to fit through the sliver of a pathway from the front driveway to the back yard without knocking over a light pole or running a branch through your neighbor's window. So what to do? 

In this case, we would have to dig it out by hand and lift it with a crane over the house. One crew plus materials (i.e. a crane rental) for this project would be in the neighborhood of $19,000. 

Next, the city has decided that an underground parking structure has to be constructed right next to a majestic protected Redwood and you're in charge of putting the project together. You could hire a General Contractor and trust that all will go well but they may or may not consult an experienced arborist about best practices for digging around tree roots which may or may not end in a dead tree once the structure is built (Read: They’ll kill the tree. This has happened before). Oops. 

Well, Redwoods are tall. This one happens to be 50’ tall and it’s sitting between a parking lot and a main street that runs parallel to the state capital. And it's on state property which puts this project into a publicly-funded category and increases our costs. We’ll be excavating parts of the parking lot, the landscaping, sidewalks, and the street. We’ll also need a special permit to shut the street down for the duration of the project. 

Our crew has dug out a new home for the tree 150’ or so away from its current location, one of our climbers has wrapped the tree in guying wire and staked the surrounding landscape to keep the tree in place while we dig, and we have begun digging out the existing root ball. Once the rootball is formed and wrapped we rig the rootball and tree for lifting by crane and begin the slow process of moving the whole unit to the new location where we will plant the tree and guy cable it long enough to give the new root system time to establish itself (we recommend one to two years depending on site conditions and a few cable adjustments over that duration). We'll then transport all the soil from the excavated site back to the original location of the tree and backfill it. But reconstructing the road, the sidewalk, or the landscaping is not included in our contract.   

Assuming all goes well, the project should take upwards of a week and the cost will be approximately $67,500. A private project of the same scope would be around $50,000.

*This project would be a good candidate for root pruning. 3 months to a year beforehand would be ideal and in this case. Twice should be sufficient during that time. Doing so would force the tree to grow new feeder roots within the rootball to be excavated sufficient enough to improve the tree's likelihood of survival after transplanting. Each round of pruning will be $3,000-$5,000(+/-) (Prevailing wage figured into job costs). Standard rates would be about approximately 30% less.

This last example is based on a real project we did several years ago. The project consisted of 5 large Deodar Cedars ranging from 35’-50’ tall with 18”-24” trunk caliper. Included with these were 10 Flowering Cherries with 10”-14” trunk caliper. None could be moved with a spade and the founder of the company had planted them so the company was willing to go to the expense of having them relocated during their office expansion. All of them were on relatively level and dry ground and all utilities had been turned off. 

They had planned the project far enough in advance that they took our recommendation and allowed us to prune the roots of each tree. Each tree also needed a custom frame made of steel pieced together on-site and capable of supporting the integrity of the rootball and the weight of the tree. We then used heavy equipment to lift each one and transport them to previously excavated planting sites. None of the depressions left by our work needed backfilling or transporting dirt offsite as the company needed to excavate the area for their expansion anyway. 

After the completion of the project, we maintained the trees for an additional year making sure the guying cables were tight enough to support the trees in their new location, we fed the trees with root stimulating fertilizer, and made sure the trees were on a consistent watering schedule.

When all was said and done the entire project had a price tag of $309,800 (adjusted for inflation).  

So there you have it. If you have any further questions feel free to check out our tree moving FAQ page or if you wish to get a quote for your project please fill out this form and we’ll be in touch.

» How much does tree planting cost?

When designing and landscaping a territory, planting seedlings and transplanting mature plants and trees are used. Moving large vehicles is a rather complicated and time-consuming procedure, it is trusted only by professionals. How trees are planted, their price, placement of small plants and large species, differences and features - further in the material.

How is tree planting going?

With the help of greenery, plants ennoble parks, squares, and adjacent territories. Planting shrubs and trees is carried out in the spring after bud break and in the fall after leaf fall until the first frost. Holes for seedlings are dug before winter or 2-3 weeks before autumn planting.

Early work is done so that the earth has time to settle. If the soil is too dense and hard, then drainage is laid on the bottom.

The size and depth of the pits is associated with different types of soil, groundwater flow. On hard ground with a heterogeneous structure with a deep water flow of 2 meters, pits are dug with a diameter of 80 cm. When replanting trees, their large and small roots are damaged, so the procedure is quite painful.

The root system must not be allowed to fall asleep, so they must be kept in water.

Dried roots are cut off with a separator, they will only interfere with the growth of the seedling. When moving, the crop loses most of its root system, so on another land it will not be able to cope with the supply of water and minerals. To solve the problem, cut the ground part of the plant.

To compact the soil and create conditions for the development of a seedling, a hole is dug around it as large as a planting hole. Then it is plentifully irrigated. The hole is covered with compost with a layer of 5 cm. This is necessary so that the earth does not dry out.

Planting mature trees - differences

Large trees are large trees with a mature root system. It is necessary to create good conditions for them, to ensure proper care, especially in the first year. It consists of irrigation, fertilization, pruning.

If the tree is not large, transplanting can be done by hand, but such work should mainly be carried out using cranes, hoists and other equipment. The operation implies a high accuracy of its implementation.

Transplanting is often done in spring or autumn when the tree is dormant. Thanks to the choice of these seasons, the survival rate of crops will increase. Planting trees, the price of which can be found on the website https://am-agro.ru, must be carried out together with an earthen clod, which will help protect the roots from death and protect them from the cold during transportation.

Transplantation in spring is favorable for large plants, but its period is short. Since the soil is still frozen after winter, this will make it difficult to dig up the tree. When the soil thaws, it will become necessary to pack the lump in a special container to give the plant strength. It can be a rigid container or a soft base in the form of a tarp. If, when digging up a plant, voids appear in a coma, they are filled with soil.

Transportation is carried out on a large truck with a large body. It is placed on the body itself or fixed on supports.

Autumn replanting can take a long time. It starts from the moment the leaves fall and ends with the onset of the first frost. If a moderate steady minus is observed in autumn, then the movement is carried out with freezing of a clod of earth. Then you do not need to pack it, so transportation and work in general will cost the client much cheaper.

In autumn, you need to remember that the root system of transplanted large-sized trees needs to be insulated for the winter.

Tree species that shed their leaves in late autumn - locust, alder, poplar, some types of oak poorly withstand the autumn resettlement, so it is preferable to carry out the procedure in the spring.

Replanting trees in the summer is risky because the plants must be protected from sun exposure and heat. The following tree species tolerate repotting well as adults:

  • deciduous - linden, maple, ash, apple, plum, chestnut;
  • conifers - spruce, fir.

It is necessary to transplant pine and birch with special preparation and responsibility, because they are difficult to move.

Only frozen soil can hold on to the roots of a large tree, so transplanting of such specimens is carried out only in winter. But the air temperature should not exceed -15?.

Before planting a plant, the soil is fertilized, mulched, the depth of groundwater is calculated, and the type of soil is determined. The survival rate of a large size depends on a good choice and preparation of the territory.

The root system of large trees is quite developed, its length can exceed 5-7 meters, so the trees are transplanted at a distance of 5 meters from each other. When choosing a plant, measure the size of the earthy coma on the roots. It should not exceed the diameter of the trunk by more than 10 times.

If the earth ball is smaller than the trunk, then the survival time will be delayed. If the land on which it is planned to be relocated does not suit the large-sized plant, then fertilizers can be used or the top layer of soil can be removed and a different type can be poured.

How much does tree planting cost in Moscow

The cost of tree planting is based on the amount of work performed, their complexity and the time spent.

Type of work What is measured Price, in Russian rubles
Planting a hardwood tree up to 2 meters high 1 piece From 1100
Planting coniferous trees up to 2 meters high 1 pc. From 1400
Planting deciduous shrubs 1 pc. From 450
Planting conifers 1 pc. From 800
Winter transplanting of large trees 1 pc. From 5000

The cost of planting a crop is formed from the following stages:

  • selection of planting material for the territory;
  • preparation of large breeds is carried out as follows: it is dug up, packed, prepared for transportation;
  • if necessary, the plant is cut and treated with special means;
  • careful transportation of seedlings or large trees to the site;
  • preparatory work on the area where they will be planted, in compliance with all safety rules and requirements;
  • creating good conditions for the preliminary maintenance of the tree until it is planted, measures include root protection, irrigation, digging in the ground;
  • pit preparation, fertilization, composting;
  • planting plants strictly according to the landscape design project;
  • treatment of bushes with a special solution that stimulates the growth of the tree and helps to quickly adapt to new conditions;
  • organization of care work.

Planting mature trees and seedlings will cost the client within an affordable price range. Also, the calculation may include fertilizer with chemical complex compositions, irrigation of an already transplanted plant, cleaning the territory after events for planting mature tree in Moscow.

If the service is ordered with a guarantee, then the price includes all warranty obligations regarding the change of dead crops, support of the process until the signing of the work acceptance certificate.

Where can I order tree planting?

The procedure contains many nuances, for example, it is necessary to navigate to the cardinal points in order to plant the crop as it was placed in the nursery.

It is important to choose the right place to plant a tree. Some cultures affect the lawn, others become food for bark beetles, the common willow will easily resolve underground utilities. It is necessary to correctly select the soil, if it is infertile, then it is fertilized. The best option for the customer is to use the services of professionals.

Tree planting, the price of which is formed from many factors, is an expensive procedure, but is in demand due to the rapid achievement of a beautiful design and landscaping of the territory. Trees in height from 2.5 to 4.5 meters are planted or transplanted on their own. If you plan to place the culture above 4.5 meters, you will need special units.

As it became clear, working with seedlings is not an easy task that requires knowledge, experience, and responsibility. AM-AGRO offers a wide range of services in this category. The client can order planting of seedlings and tree care from real professionals who have many years of experience.

The AM-AGRO company has extensive experience, with considerable success has designed urban areas, adjacent plots, land near cottages and summer cottages. Specialists always take into account the wishes of the client, the climate of the area, the type of soil, the depth of the passage of groundwater.

The placement of shrubs and large trees will help to create a vertical plane of the site, around which you can create beautiful landscapes. Thanks to the planting of mature trees in Moscow, the client will decorate his territory in a matter of days. It takes years to grow seedlings, so more and more often they order the planting of large-sized plants with a developed root system and a formed crown.

Professional tree planting

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About the timing of transplanting fruit trees on the site

About the timing of transplanting fruit trees

It is practically possible to replant fruit trees throughout the year, but still less labor and cost will be incurred when replanting during the dormant period of plants - in early spring, before the start of growth, in autumn, during the period of mass leaf fall, and in winter when the air temperature is not lower than -5 -6 0 . In the conditions of central Russia, early spring is considered the best time for transplanting fruit trees.

Age of trees to be transplanted

It is more expedient to replant fruit trees at the age not older than 20-25 years, but here some varietal characteristics of plants are taken into account.

Trees of early-bearing varieties are generally considered less durable and should be replanted no older than this age. Long-lived varieties are another matter, the transplantation of which is permissible even at an older age.

In both cases, it is important that the trees to be transplanted be healthy, develop normally, and show no damage to the trunk or branches. Of course, hollow trees are unsuitable for transplantation.

Transplant with soil ball

Fruit and ornamental trees are transplanted in different ways: a) with a soil clod, b) without a clod (with exposed roots), c) with preliminary preparation of trees for transplantation.

The most common transplant with a soil clod.

With modern technology, digging and transporting trees with a fairly heavy clod of soil is not particularly difficult. It is not difficult to transplant in the conditions of backyard and collective gardens using the simplest improvised devices.

The size of the clod of transplanted trees is determined depending on their age: for 7-10-year-olds, the clod diameter is 1.0-1.25 m, for 10-15-year-olds - 1.3-1.5 m, for 20-30- summer -1.7-2.0 m.

Taking into account the depth of the greatest spread of active roots of the apple tree, the height of the coma is set at 60-70 cm.

The shape of the soil ball can be in the form of a cylinder or a cube. Depending on this, the tree is dug in a circular or square-shaped ditch 40-50 cm wide.

Roots encountered during digging are cut with a garden knife to a level with the wall of the coma. Thick roots are chopped off with a shovel, an ax, cut down with a hacksaw, but after that the ends of the roots are cleaned with a knife to form a smooth, better healing wound surface.

For ease of use, when cutting a lump from below and pulling it out of the pit, one of the walls of the ditch is made inclined.

For long-distance transportation and transplants from loose crumbling soils, the soil clod is sheathed with matting, wire mesh, and preferably with boards. A round ball is lined with boards vertically and pulled together with strong wire, and a lump in the shape of a cube, somewhat tapering downwards, is sheathed from the sides and from the bottom with boards in a horizontal direction and fastened with bolts. Pre-cut shields are convenient for sheathing according to the size of the sides and bottom of the coma. In this case, it turns out, as it were, a collapsible box. So, for example, the workers of the Michurinsky Garden do it at the Exhibition of Achievements of the National Economy of Russia.

From the bottom of the ball, together with vertical roots, it is not difficult to cut with a strong wire, thrown in a loop around the bottom of the ball and attached to the tractor at both ends. When the tractor moves forward, the wire cuts off the soil under the bottom of the clod, simultaneously cutting off the roots.

To extract the prepared clod from the pit, an iron leaf-drag is used, on which a tree with a clod is pulled up and installed. They pull it out along the inclined wall of the pit with a tractor. To lift a tree with a lump, cranes, winches, etc. are also used.

When transplanting mature trees in household plots and in collective gardens, the simplest devices are used: they dig a soil ball with shovels, cutting off the roots with an ax, lift it out of the pit using rollers, logs, tripods, and for movement - with iron sheets-scrapers.

Transportation of fruit trees

Before loading onto vehicles for long-distance transportation, tree branches are tied up, and the entire crown and stem are wrapped with matting. The trees in the back of the car are placed in an inclined position and always in a lump to the driver's cab. If the branches lie on the sides of the machine, lay mats or tarpaulins to prevent damage to the branches when rubbing against the sides.

When transporting over short distances, trees can be installed vertically, securing the lump with strong ropes, wire, to prevent the tree from moving along the bottom of the car body.

Arriving at the planting site, the trees are carefully removed by a crane or lowered along boards, logs into a pit prepared in advance for planting.

Planting fruit trees

Pits for planting are prepared in depth and width slightly larger than the size of the tree ball, so that after planting the space between the walls of the pit and the ball is filled with good nutritious soil.

The tree should be planted at the same depth as it grew in the same place (take into account the possibility of the clod settling after planting). It is recommended to keep its previous position in relation to the cardinal points. It is not difficult to achieve this: even before digging up a tree, you need to make a mark on one side of the stem with chalk, paint or tie a piece of cloth, twine on some branch. Such marks will allow you to correctly install the tree in the pit.

The space between the clod and the walls of the pit is covered with nutrient soil, compacted and, after completing the work, watered well.

Although a sufficiently heavy soil ball gives a stable position to the tree after planting, additional reinforcement with strong guy wires is still required.

Post landing care

Despite the fact that the tree was transplanted without leaves, water continues to evaporate through the pores of the trunk and branches, and its supply from the soil is greatly reduced due to the significant loss of roots during digging. This can lead to drying of the aerial part, poor survival, and possibly death of the plant.

Given this, after transplantation, and more conveniently even before it, the skeletal branches are shortened by about ⅓ of their length or the crown is significantly thinned out by removing some branches. It is better to cut 2-3 large branches than many small ones.

Wounds, as usual after pruning, are coated with garden pitch (petrolatum).

The trunk and the lower parts of the skeletal branches are tied with moss, matting, burlap, straw bundles to prevent excessive evaporation of water. During the summer, the soil under the crown of the tree is systematically watered, the strapping is periodically moistened (sprayed). It is useful after transplanting to sprinkle all the branches in the crown of the tree with lime mortar. It is also important to monitor the possible appearance of pests, especially leaf-eating and aphids, and take measures to combat them. Flowers formed in the first year should not be left, they are cut off.

Transplant with pretreatment

This case is better than the previous one, although it takes a little longer. It consists in the following. As in the first case, in the spring a circular or square ditch is dug around the tree, filled with well-fertilized loose soil, watered and left in this state until the next spring.

At the ends, trimmed and cleaned with a knife, when digging the roots, new fibrous roots form, which grow well in the fertilized soil of the ditch.

The tree is dug up next spring. The ditch is now being dug a little further than last year, so as not to damage the new roots formed during the summer. Such a tree tolerates a transplant less painfully and rather takes root in a new place.

This is the method of replanting trees with their preliminary preparation, the rest of the work is the same as described above.

The tree can be transplanted without a clod

In this case, leave longer (up to 1-1.5 m depending on the age of the tree) roots than when digging with a soil ball, and be sure to protect them from drying. Stepping back from the trunk to a distance of the length of the roots, they dig a circular ditch 1 m deep. Then carefully remove the soil layer from above the coma to the first roots. With a pointed stake or washing with water, the roots are gradually freed from the ground, pouring it into a ditch. As the ditch fills, the earth is thrown away. It is necessary to monitor the safety of the roots, not allowing them to be cut off under the weight of earthen clods.

As the roots are exposed, they cover with damp moss, moistened with burlap, grass. At the end of the excavation, the tree begins to lose stability in the hole and needs to be temporarily secured with guy wires. This is especially necessary when cutting the lower roots.

In the case of long-distance transportation, the roots are tied, like the branches in the crown, and packed. The conditions of transportation, planting in a new place and primary care do not differ from those described above when transplanting trees with a lump.

As can be seen from what has been said, transplanting mature trees with exposed roots is more convenient, easier when lifting a tree from a hole, loading and unloading it, but freeing the roots from the ground requires more time, attention and caution.

Is it possible to transplant a tree in winter?

It is possible, at a temperature not lower than minus 6 0 . At this time, the movement of trees along the toboggan path facilitates the work, and there is no need to cover the clod with boards.

Trees are ditched in late autumn. In order not to lower the strong freezing of the coma, and, consequently, the roots, the ditch must be covered with peat and manure. At the new location, a landing pit is being prepared at the same time.

After the coma has frozen (around mid-December), the tree is removed from the pit and transported. Some difficulty lies in finding thawed earth to backfill the ditch after planting. The near-stem circle insulates with a layer of manure, peat, and is well spudded with snow.

Will there be a harvest in the orchard?

Snow covered garden. The roots of fruit trees are securely covered with a snow blanket, and the branches of berry bushes and branches are almost covered to the top. Strawberries under the snow feel good.

Spring is not yet soon, and the gardener, of course, already wants to know how the trees overwintered, whether the branches and especially the flower buds have frozen, can we hope that there will be a harvest? After all, for the winter, more than once, trees were “grabbed” by frost, there were also strong ones that were dangerous for trees.

It is necessary to know the possibility of freezing of fruit plants not just for the sake of curiosity, but in order to prepare for spring care of frozen trees in case of danger signals. But how to do it?

As soon as severe frosts pass, cut off a few shoots and branches with flower buds with secateurs, dip in a bowl of water and hold in a heated room for 2-3 days. The layer of water in the dish should not exceed 5-6 cm.

After removing the branch from the water, cut it crosswise with a garden knife and carefully inspect the cut surface. Intact parts of the branch are light. If the core turns brown, it is frostbitten, blackened, severely frozen. By the same criteria, the freezing of wood cells is determined. If the core and wood are slightly frozen, this does not mean the complete death of the branch, and there is hope that subsequently they will gradually recover due to the formation of new wood cells by the cambium. When the circular ring of the cambium is severely damaged (blackened) by frost, this is already the death of the branch.

A week or two will pass, and life awakens in the buds: they swell, open their outer clothing, from under which the greenery of future flowers and leaves is visible. So the flowers have blossomed with pale pink fragrant petals, now they can be examined (preferably through a magnifying glass). It happens that all parts of the flower are fresh, green, and the pistil itself is green, and its top (stigma) is blackened, indicating death from frost. It is necessary to check the integrity of the branches again after wintering.

Cambium - the most frost-resistant and damaged at a lower temperature than the core and wood.

Freezing of one-year-old shoots of an apple tree can still be established in the following way, proposed at the time by prof. MM. Okuntsev (Tomsk). Cut 1-2 cuttings from a one-year growth and place them in a washed test tube or a small jar filled with clean, unboiled water. Before dipping, wipe the cuttings with a damp cloth. In a heated room on the 2-3rd day, the result will be visible: if the water in the dishes becomes yellowish or of other shades, then the wood is not viable. With more severe frosting, the water is darker. If the water stays clean, the wood is healthy.

At the same time, make sure the flower buds are intact, because they contain the current year's harvest. With a razor blade, carefully cut along (from top to bottom) exactly in half such a kidney. A healthy kidney on a cut is light green. Inside it, the primordia of the pistil and stamens are visible crowding one to the other, covered from the outside with petals and integumentary scales. If there is blackness in the middle of the kidney, this is the result of freezing.

Especially dangerous is the blackening of the vascular bundles at the base of the fruit bud.

The pistil is the most frost-sensitive part of the flower; being in a bud that has not yet blossomed, it often freezes slightly. In this case, the hearth tree will bloom in spring, covered with white foam of fragrant flowers, and there will be no harvest.

The experiment with branches and buds can be continued by leaving them in the water until they bloom. Only in this case, it is necessary to cut the lower ends of the branches obliquely and slightly renew the sections when replacing the water in 2-3 days.

Cherry blossoms but no harvest

This happens sometimes, and gardeners often ask: "Why?" The reason for this is winter, freezing of flower buds.

A gardener sees in the spring: "Cherry orchards stand like drenched in milk." But this is only external well-being, apparent. Take the trouble to come closer to the cherry tree, close to its flowers, look at them carefully, and better armed with a magnifying glass. In the edging of pale pink fragrant petals, beckoning to the flower of furry workers - bees, pale green stamens with anthers peep out, among them a pistil. An external cursory examination of the flower does not seem to say anything, but take a closer look and see that the upper part of the pistil (stigma) is blackened. This means that the most important part of the pistil has died, there can be no pollination and fertilization of the ovary. Therefore, there will be no harvest.

Flower buds, as we know, are less frost-resistant than growth buds, and the most frost-sensitive part of the flower is the pistil. It does not tolerate high low winter temperatures and often freezes in an unopened flower bud.

If the pestle is not frozen, but there is still no crop, then the reason is different. Perhaps there is no pollinator for this variety - another variety that blooms at the same time. This, however, is very rare, since the total area of ​​the collective garden always has a large set of various varieties, and the bees carry out pollination work within a radius of 2-2.5 km. Other insects do the same.

Of course, the reliability of pollination largely depends on weather conditions: cold, rain, wind limit the flight of insects, and the process of pollen germination on the stigma of the pistil is associated with temperature and other conditions of the day.

In some areas, for example, in the gardens of the Moscow region, cherries rarely please the gardener with their fruits. This means that one should not get carried away with advertised varieties that have not been tested for resistance in local conditions, but should be planted recommended, the so-called zoned ones. These varieties must be provided with appropriate care, not pampering the plants, preparing them for a successful overwintering.

Spring frosts are coming

Gardeners are aware of the damage to the economy caused by spring frost if it occurs during the flowering period and the first days of growth of fruit and berry ovaries. Frosts are dangerous because there are no effective guaranteed measures to combat them yet, and possible ones are very difficult.

Based on long-term meteorological observations, it has been established that in the conditions of central Russia, the latest frost period can be considered June 6-10.

There are two types of frosts. Local ones that spread in certain areas (matinees) are usually short-lived, although they can be repeated after a few days. Such frosts are called radiation. But a decrease in temperature can occur as a result of the invasion of cold air masses from the north (advective frosts). Protecting the garden from such cold weather is very difficult, as they capture a large area, are accompanied by strong cold winds and can last for several days. Radiation frosts are more common.

Buds of most fruit and berry plants are damaged by frosts at minus 40, opened flowers at minus 20, and young fruit ovaries are even more sensitive and damaged even at minus 1-1.500.

The effect of freezing largely depends on the location of the orchard

The relief of the garden area is of great importance. In low places and especially in closed basins, in impenetrable clearings during frost, the temperature is always several degrees lower than in elevated places and on slopes, so the risk of frost damage is greater there. Cold heavy air in open places, not encountering vegetation and other barriers, flows down from elevated areas to lower ones and accumulates here.

There are rare cases of damage to gardens by spring matinees near large reservoirs, in floodplains of rivers.

The degree of frost damage depends on the nature of the soil, its cover. A moistened and compacted soil surface cools less than a loose and dry one. A surface covered with vegetation cools more than a surface free from it.

From all that has been said, it follows that the choice of a place for laying an orchard is of particular importance not only in relation to creating favorable conditions for the growth of fruit and berry plants, but also, in particular, to prevent possible damage to the garden by frosts in harvest years.

Local signs of freezing

It is very important to determine in advance the likelihood of frosts and prepare in time to protect the blooming garden.

On the central radio and television, on the local radio broadcasting and broadcasting network in the programs of the Hydrometeorological Center, agricultural workers are warned about the possible onset of frost.

The transmitted weather forecasts and warnings about the possible onset of frost relate to a fairly large area - an area, less often a district, therefore, for local conditions, some deviations in the forecasts are possible and inevitable.

There are local signs of frost approaching: after a hot day, suddenly by 19-20 hours the air temperature drops sharply, and the mercury of the thermometer continues to fall just as sharply at night; the air is quiet, windless; the sky is completely cloudless; the air is dry, there is no dew on plants and soil.

If the signs of the weather in the evening are opposite to those listed above (cloudy sky, windy, dew, etc.), this indicates that there is no possibility of frost.

Thermometers are hung on the branches of trees, and preferably on stakes at eye level. In large horticultural farms, thermometers are installed in several areas of different relief: in a lowland, in elevated places. Usually, thermometers installed in lower areas are the first to signal the threat of frost.


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