How often do apricot trees bear fruit


All about fruitful apricots – Orange County Register

Spring hasn’t officially sprung yet and I can already anticipate your concern that this will be another year without apricots. Join the club. Apricot trees have such unreliable habits they are the reason I planted mine as a shade tree. Among fruit trees, apricots have the prettiest form, the loveliest leaves and unusual bark. And – oh, yeah – sometimes, I actually get apricots. Sometimes.

There are lots of reasons why apricots don’t put out. They are a little persnickety about chill factor. While peaches, plums and even apples will produce copious fruit following warm winters, apricots are more likely to pout about it for the rest of the season. My Goldkist wants 300 accumulated hours of temperatures below 45 degrees, which will be a tall order for this winter.

Some apricots are also alternate-bearing – meaning, like avocados, they don’t produce fruit every single year. Sometimes they put out every other year, and sometimes every third year.

And then, there is the rain equation. Apricots bloom early in February and March – the height of our rainy season in normal years. A good rain will knock the blooms off and no blooms equals no fruit.

Then, enter the confusing pruning practices and the odds are against fruit on all fronts. According to R. Sanford Martin and his self-published book, “How to Prune Fruit Trees” (Village Nurseries), apricots are divided into three pruning classes based on their fruiting habits. Some apricot trees bear fruit at the tip of the branch, others, in the central section of the branch, some bear fruit toward the base of the branch.

If you have had even one single season of fruit, try to remember where on the branch you picked that fruit – it’ll make a big difference in how you prune.

If you have a tip-bearing tree, do not prune back the 1-year-old tips. Fruit grows on 1-year-old wood.

If you have a central branch-bearing tree, prune back the 1-year-old tips to the fat buds that will be producing fruit.

If you have a tree that bears fruit toward the base of the branch, prune back 1-year-old tips two-thirds of the way.

If you can’t figure out what or what not to prune, don’t prune at all for a season or two and see what happens.

I was so desperate for apricots that I stopped pruning my tree in 2006. That winter was also a very cold one. I was rewarded for my restraint with a small but delicious crop.

Fruit or none, you still want to maintain the shape of your tree. Prune long horizontal branches so they don’t break. Don’t let tall flyaway branches get out of your reach. Leaf out the tree by removing enough branches so that sunlight penetrates to the interior. Any low-growing branch that makes the tree impossible to sit under should be removed. Also, remove any branch that crosses or is unsightly.

Then, when there is nothing left that you can do for your tree, park a bench under it so it knows you care.

Related article: A to Z plant guide: How to grow everything in Southern California 

Contact the writer: [email protected] com or 714-796-5023

How Long For An Apricot Tree To Bear Fruit? — Farm & Animals

When you plant a young apricot tree in your yard, you may wonder how long you will need to wait before it bears fruit. A definitive answer for this question is difficult to give, as there are many variables, including the apricot variety, the age and health of the tree, and your weather conditions. Let’s dive in and discover more about how long it takes for an apricot tree to bear fruit.

What You'll Learn Today

  • How Long Does It Take For An Apricot Tree To Bear Fruit?
  • When Does an Apricot Tree Bloom?
  • Do Apricots Fruit Every Year?
  • Why My Apricot Tree Doesn’t Produce?
    • Blossom
    • Pollination
    • Fruit Drop
    • Chill Hours
    • Alternate Bearing
    • Old Age
  • How Do You Get Apricot Trees To Fruit?
    • How to Hand Pollinate
  • Do You Need Two Apricot Trees To Produce Fruit?
  • Conclusion

How Long Does It Take For An Apricot Tree To Bear Fruit?

Apricots are a delicious summertime fruit. They produce rounded, smooth, soft-skinned apricots with golden yellow to orange skin often blushed with deep orangey-red tones where it has been kissed by the sun.

Delicious picked straight from the tree, they can also be used for baking, canning, and drying.

Most apricot trees don’t require a second tree to cross-pollinate them as they are self-fertile. There are, however, a few exceptions, and more fruit will always be produced by trees that benefit from cross-pollination.

For your tree to produce any apricots several things are required:

  • For the majority of varieties, it must be at least three years old
  • There needs to be enough insects active in the area to pollinate it
  • If the blossom is damaged by frost, rain, or wind, there will be no fruit
  • The tree must receive sufficient winter chill hours – these are the number of hours when temperatures average between 32°F and 45°F over the winter
  • Enough, but not too much, water and nutrients must be available to the tree

Some varieties of apricot tree blossom in very early spring, while others bloom later. Usually, you will expect to harvest fruits between June and August, depending on tree variety and location. 

A young tree will start to produce fruit when it is three to four years old, but it can take considerably longer before you get a good yield, on average, five to seven years. 

Maximum yields will usually be enjoyed when the tree is between seven and ten years of age, and it will generally continue to fruit until it is between 20 and 25 years old.

Should a young tree start to fruit, it is better to remove them and allow the roots to grow stronger.

When Does an Apricot Tree Bloom?

Depending on the variety of tree, you can expect it to blossom in February or March.

For the blossom to be fertilized by insects, it needs to be on the tree long enough. Some early blooming varieties do poorly in colder climates because there aren’t sufficient insect pollinators around to do the job.

Once the blossom is pollinated, it takes around 100 to 120 days before the apricots are ripe enough to be harvested in June, July, or August.

In this video, you can see when apricot trees typically start fruiting and some reasons why they may not bear any fruit:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o7CKKJyZI8gVideo can’t be loaded because JavaScript is disabled: Do apricot trees bloom every year? (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o7CKKJyZI8g)

Do Apricots Fruit Every Year?

It’s usual for apricot trees not to fruit every year. Some only fruit on alternate years, while others are on a three-year cycle.

Other than the natural rhythms of the tree, other factors that affect fruit production are often weather-related. Problems can include:

  • Insufficient cold hours over winter
  • Frost, rain, or wind destroying blossom
  • Too few pollinating insects
  • Not sufficient wood of fruit-bearing age

We will look at these and more reasons why your tree may not be fruiting below.

Why My Apricot Tree Doesn’t Produce?

There are a variety of reasons why an apricot tree might not be producing any fruit. Some of these are easy to solve, while others can be a little more tricky.

Blossom

Are you getting plenty of blossom on your apricot tree in the early springtime? There are several reasons why you may not be, this can include: 

  • The age of your tree – young trees under three years old are usually too busy growing and establishing a strong root system, so they won’t give fruit. There are a few exceptions to this however such as the Wenatchee apricot tree which can produce some fruit in its first year.
  • Sickness – if your tree is sick or diseased, then it may be under too much stress for the tree to produce blossom.
  • Overfertilization – giving your fruit tree a little fertilizer to help it along in early spring can be beneficial, but give it too much, and rather than producing lots of beautiful blossoms, it will grow a massive amount of foliage instead.
  • Weather – it could be that your tree did start producing blossom, but then a hard frost, heavy rain, or strong wind destroyed them. If you live in a cold area prone to late frosts, choose a late-blooming or frost-resistant variety.
  • Warmth – just as bad weather can be a problem, not having a cold enough one can be too. Apricot trees require a certain period of cold to start their reproductive cycle.
  • Pruning – apricots only produced blossom and fruit on wood of a particular age, usually two-year-old wood depending on the variety. If you pruned away all of that wood, there won’t be any to grow fruit.

Pollination

So you’ve got plenty of blossoms, but still no fruit. What went wrong? The problem here is probably due to a pollination issue. Either your blossom was damaged by bad weather, or there weren’t enough active insects to pollinate it. 

Although most varieties of apricot are “self-pollinating” meaning they don’t require a second variety of apricot tree growing close by to cross-pollinate them, this can still be very advantageous. Having another tree (or several) helps to ensure successful pollination and produces a higher yield of fruit.

If you suspect that the problem is down to insufficient pollinating insects, then you can hand pollinate your tree using a soft-bristled brush, like a makeup brush or artist’s brush. More information on this can be seen below in “How to Hand Pollinate”. 

When you see the flowers loaded with pollen, go from one to another using the brush to pick up the pollen and spread it to another.

Fruit Drop

Sometimes, even if the blossom is pollinated and fruit begins to grow, it quickly falls off, so why is this?

  • Too many fruits – often apricot trees produce an overabundance of flowers, and on good years when most of them are successfully pollinated, too many fruits are produced. This stresses the tree and can cause it to shed the young apricots – often twice, and may leave you with only a few remaining.

To help prevent this, you can pinch out excess fruits by hand. It can be time-consuming but is well worth the effort as the remaining fruit will grow larger and juicier than if you leave too many.  

  • Disease – is another cause of fruit drop. If you see the fruit covered in tiny olive-green spots that grow in size as the fruit does, the apricots will often fall from the tree before fully ripe or crack open and rot. 

A broad-spectrum fungicide can kill the organism responsible if applied in the spring when buds set. Apply again after harvest to help prevent future problems and clear the area around the tree’s base during fruit ripening.

Chill Hours

Depending on the variety of apricot tree you have, during a mild winter when temperatures don’t drop low enough for long enough, your tree won’t produce fruit. 

With our climate warming and winters often becoming milder, this can be an increasing problem. The only real solution is choosing varieties requiring fewer chill hours to successfully produce fruit.

Alternate Bearing

It’s perfectly normal for apricot trees not to produce fruit every year. In fact, many varieties are alternate bearing, meaning they only fruit every other year, or sometimes every three years. 

Old Age

Do you know how old your fruit tree is? If you’ve inherited one when moving home for example, then a possible reason why your apricot tree doesn’t produce fruit could be to do with old age. 

These trees can live to be over 100 years old but only produce fruit for the first 20 to 25 years of their lives. After this time, they become more ornamental. 

How Do You Get Apricot Trees To Fruit?

Sadly our natural insect pollinators are being destroyed by the use of commercial pesticides, climate change, and other factors we don’t fully understand. This means sometimes there just aren’t’ sufficient numbers of insects around to pollinate your apricot blossom. 

Poor weather conditions can also affect the ability of pollinating insects to work, and it can destroy blossom before pollination occurs.

You can do the same job as pollinating insects by pollinating the tree yourself using a soft bristle brush, such as a makeup brush, and taking pollen from one blossom and spreading it to another. This is even better if you have more than one tree and can cross-pollinate the blossoms.

If you fear frost or other adverse weather conditions may knock off your blossom, you can try protecting your tree by applying a fleece. This is available from good garden stores or online. Don’t forget to remove it afterward to allow access by insects!

How to Hand Pollinate
  1. When the blossom is in full bloom, check to make sure you can see the anthers, which resemble tiny hairlike structures at the center of each flower. These open to release pollen grains.
  1. On a sunny day during the morning, when there is no rain forecast, use a soft makeup or artist’s brush to collect pollen from the flowers – you will be able to see the fine pollen dust on the brush.
  1. Once you have plenty of pollen, use the brush to deposit the pollen onto the stigmas of flowers on the same or preferably a different apricot tree. The Stigma is the tall, tiny tube located at the very center of each flower.
  1. Continue the process, so you are pollinating as many flowers as possible. You may need to use a ladder to reach higher blossoms. If you do, use it carefully, with someone holding it steady at the bottom.

Do You Need Two Apricot Trees To Produce Fruit?

No, you don’t need two apricot trees to produce fruit. Most varieties of apricot tree are “self-fruiting,” which means they can pollinate themselves. However, it is always better to have two different types of apricot tree so that cross-pollination can occur, producing higher fruit yields.

Unlike some other fruit trees, you don’t have male and female trees. The flowers of apricot trees carry both the male and female reproductive parts. 

Conclusion

If you plant a young apricot tree in your yard, it can be frustrating waiting for it to mature and bear fruit. However, remember that in the few years that it is growing, it’s becoming stronger and sending down deep roots so it can live for many years.

Once your tree is mature enough, it can provide you with delicious apricots for over 20 years, so it is well worth the wait.

If you have a mature apricot tree that is not fruiting, remember that many varieties only fruit every two to three years. 

For trees that never seem to fruit, however long you wait, check things like chill hours, pruning practices, and pollination.

To learn more about apricot trees and a vast range of other related topics, discover further articles on our website. 

Apricots all year round

Apricot is a very convenient crop. It can be torn green for long-distance transportation or storage. It can lie in the refrigerator or turn into quality dried fruits. And in the market, apricot fruits are in stable demand. Only these trees do not bear fruit every year, which is a pity. However, you can cope with the frequency of fruiting apricots.

Enduring perches

Like it or not, apricot cultivars bear fruit once every three years. The rest of the time, from giant trees, it is possible to pick up one plate of fruits from the strength. Winter is to blame for this, or rather, winter thaws with subsequent cooling. In such rotten winters, flower buds die, but growth ones remain.

To cope with adversity is the task of breeders. In the meantime, in addition to cultivated apricot trees, we still have to plant wild animals (or, as they are also called, poles). They are more resistant to winter frosts and bear fruit almost every year. For regular fruiting, it is advisable to plant two or three poles on the site.

They have only one drawback - the fruits are small and not as beautiful as the cultivars. And one more thing: you will never say in advance what the ripening period of these trees is.

Control for moniliosis

In addition to frosty winters, the apricot crop is also threatened by a fungal disease - moniliosis. Its outbreaks usually occur at the time of flowering, after which the plants stand as if scorched by fire. The crop dies completely, and sometimes the trees die.

It is possible to cope with moniliosis. To do this, before flowering, the trees are sprayed with Skorom, and during flowering - with Horus. This is usually enough to save the crop. Just calm down early. There is also perforated spotting, and coccomycosis, which appear after flowering. We deal with them with another processing of Strobe.

A place in the sun

Apricots are more sensitive to lack of light. It should be planted only in a sunny place and no closer than three meters from buildings and neighboring trees. If the apricots do not bear fruit, pay attention to the neighbors: perhaps one of them is shading the apricot trees.

Or maybe the apricot shade itself. To eliminate this drawback, it is necessary to cut out all the branches growing inside the crown, and reduce the height of the tree by 1.5-2 m.

Sensitive ovary

Apricot flowers die at -2°C. weather to cold. Therefore, it is very important to stimulate the plants to bloom later. This is achieved in two ways: summer pruning and early spraying of trees.

Summer pruning of apricots is carried out in August immediately after harvest. Remove all unnecessary branches and shorten annual growths by 1/3. This is enough for the trees to bloom a week later.

Postponing bud break to a later date can be done by spraying plants with 3% Bordeaux mixture in early spring. It is carried out immediately, as soon as the air temperature warms up to + 5 ° C. Usually, such treatment not only destroys fungal diseases, but also delays bud break for another week.

Why apricot does not bear fruit and what to do about it, for what year after planting it bears fruit

on the tree there are few or none at all. Or the tree simply did not bloom in spring - it is resting. How to explain the reason for this phenomenon and what actions to take in such a situation? If we find answers to these questions, we will get a decent harvest of ripe sweet fruits.

Contents

  • 1 What determines the long and abundant fruiting of apricots

  • 2 Fruiting shoots of apricot

    • 2.1 Video: fruiting shoots of apricot

  • 3 Apricot pollination is the key to successful fruiting

    • 3.1 Photo gallery: methods of pollinating apricot trees

  • 4 Apricot fruiting problems and solutions

    • 4.1 Zoned variety in suitable soil

    • 4.2 Infrequent watering

    • 4.3 Timely feeding

    • 4.4 Pest control

    • 4.5 Apricot flowering delay

      • 4.5.1 Video: how to delay the flowering of apricots

    • 4.6 Apricot pruning

      • 4.6.1 Video: apricot pruning in summer (green pruning)

      • 4.6.2 Video: pruning to preserve the crop (crowning)

    • 4. 7 Planting several trees side by side

    • 4.8 Root and crown balance

      • 4.8.1 Video: how to make an apricot fruit

What determines the long and abundant fruiting of apricots

Apricots begin to bear fruit at the age of two to four years after planting in a permanent place in the garden and bear fruit steadily up to 25–30 years. The peak yield of a tree falls on the age of five or six years, after which it gradually begins to decline. The duration of the productive period of apricot is influenced by many factors:

  • a correctly chosen place for planting a tree - the site should be well lit, with a groundwater level not higher than 1.8–2 m from the ground;
  • suitable soil in terms of acidity and composition - the recommended level of acidity is pH 7.0–8.5, light loamy soils with good aeration and water permeability are desirable;
  • optimal irrigation regime - apricot does not like waterlogged soils, but during drought, vegetative processes are disturbed and the tree sheds ovaries;
  • regular pruning of trees - if pruning is incorrect or absent, the number of overgrowing shoots decreases, fruit twigs die off;
  • good plant nutrition - organic and mineral fertilizers should be balanced in quantity and composition and applied during a certain growing season;
  • winter hardiness and frost resistance of the variety - plants withstand winter frosts down to -28 º C, but flower buds freeze even when the air temperature drops to -1 ° C;
  • susceptibility of a tree to fungal diseases or damage by pests - with competent agricultural technology and regular care, the plant has enough strength to withstand adverse conditions;
  • damp and rainy weather during flowering and a long dry period during the setting and ripening of fruits - if the necessary measures are taken in time, the influence of even these weather vagaries, seemingly beyond human control, can be reduced.

A well-lit, sunny area, protected from winds and dampness is most suitable for growing apricots. In addition to vegetative shoots bearing a green mass of leaves, overgrown fruit-bearing shoots appear on skeletal and semi-skeletal branches during the growing season. They form leaf and flower buds. Fruit ovaries are formed from flower buds mainly on bouquet branches and spurs:

  • a bouquet twig (also called a spear) is a short (3–8 cm) spiny process, on the lateral surface of which flower buds are formed. These buds are collected in a kind of bouquet and are located close to each other. The apical bud of the bouquet twig is leafy. These shoots appear at the age of two to three years of apricot, live and bear fruit for three to four years, then gradually dry up and fall off;
  • spurs are short fruit shoots from 1 to 6 cm long. They are identical to bouquet branches in the location of the buds on the shoot. The peculiarity of spurs is that their flower buds are smaller and are not collected in bunches, but grow singly.

Apricot also bears fruit, but to a lesser extent, on fruit twigs - annual growths over 15 cm long, mainly with flower buds.

Video: fruiting apricot shoots

Apricot pollination is the key to successful fruiting

Most modern apricot varieties are self-fertile. However, in a cold long spring with frequent rains and strong winds, pollination of flowers can be weak and incomplete, which leads to a decrease in yield. In addition, the early flowering of apricots often does not coincide with the emergence of pollinating insects. In such a situation, sometimes you have to resort to manual pollination. For self-infertile varieties, under the indicated weather conditions, pollination may not occur at all due to the absence of pollinating insects (bumblebees, bees, etc. ). For successful cross-pollination, experienced gardeners recommend having several apricots of various varieties in the garden, preferably self-fertile. As a rule, 3-4 trees are enough. Their number can be limited only by the size of the plot, but the main condition is the simultaneity of their flowering. For high-quality pollination, the distance between the trees should be in the range of 4 to 6 m. The presence of an apiary near the site will be especially useful for pollination. To attract bees and other beneficial insects, it is advisable to plant honey plants next to apricots - white and yellow sweet clover, phacelia (which are also good green manure), sainfoin, tartar, heather, fireweed.

Photo gallery: how to pollinate apricot trees

During intensive flowering of apricot, pollen is transferred from the male flower to the female by wind or insects and pollination occurs.
For reliable cross-pollination, the garden should grow several apricot trees of different varieties that coincide in flowering time.
Effective pollination of apricot is facilitated by the presence of bees near the tree planting site.
In manual pollination, pollen is gently transferred from flower to flower with a brush or cotton swab.

To attract pollinating insects (bumblebees, wild and domestic bees), at the beginning of flowering, I advise you to sprinkle the flowers and buds with a solution of honey (a tablespoon per 1 liter of water), and from frost, cover the crowns of small trees with a cloth (sheets, burlap, spunbond).

A. M. Golubev, agronomist, biochemist, Saratov

Journal "Gardens of Russia", No. 1, January 2011

Problems of apricot fruiting and their solution

Among the most likely reasons for the absence or weak fruiting of apricots are:

  • variety not suitable for local climatic conditions;
  • poorly chosen place for planting and growing;
  • weak or too abundant watering;
  • soil nutrient deficiencies;
  • damage to flower buds by pests or diseases;
  • freezing of flower buds during return frosts;
  • incorrect pruning of the tree or its absence.

Let's consider successively the ways to eliminate these problems.

Zoned variety on suitable soil

Currently, apricot varieties have been bred for cultivation both in the northern and southern regions. Therefore, an unregistered apricot variety should be replaced with a more suitable one for the climate.

The apricot variety Tsarsky begins to ripen only in August, therefore, in regions where the summer is short, it is better not to grow it. To do this, carry out:

Rare watering

Apricot belongs to drought-resistant crops, so it tolerates excess moisture worse than its lack. With a long absence of rain in the summer, the vegetative processes in apricots are not disturbed and do not affect the setting and ripening of fruits, provided that they are regularly watered and the soil under the trees is carefully mulched. During the season, subject to moderate precipitation, four mandatory irrigations are carried out:

  1. The first watering is carried out in the spring before flowering begins (the “rosebud” phase).

    The first watering of the apricot is carried out in the spring, before the tree blooms

  2. Also in the spring after the end of flowering in the period of fruit set, a second watering is performed.
  3. In summer, apricot trees are watered at the stage of fruit ripening and the formation of fruit buds of the next year (irrigation is stopped 2 weeks before fruit picking).
  4. In autumn, after leaf fall, water-charging irrigation is carried out. In this case, you should be careful not to pour a large amount of water under the plant in order to avoid warming up the root collar - a maximum of 50 liters.

Timely top dressing

With insufficient nutrition, the apricot weakens, poorly develops overgrown branches and grows vegetative shoots (with leaves) instead of fruit shoots. Thus, the tree is trying to make up for the supply of nutrients to the detriment of the future crop. To solve this problem, plants should be regularly fed with organic and mineral fertilizers, giving preference to nitrogen fertilizers in spring, and gradually replacing them with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in summer.

Pest treatment

If the lack of fruiting is due to damage to the flower buds by pests or the buds have been damaged by a fungal disease, measures should be taken to kill insect pests or fungal spores. To do this, apricots are treated with appropriate fungicidal and insecticidal preparations. To prevent diseases, preventive spraying of trees is carried out in spring before bud break and in autumn after leaf fall with 3% Bordeaux mixture.

For the prevention of diseases, apricots are sprayed in spring before bud break with 3% Bordeaux liquid

Apricot flowering is delayed

For apricot flower buds at the end of winter and spring, sudden thaws in February and return May frosts are the most dangerous. Apricot has a very short period of natural dormancy; at the end of winter, the buds are ready for vegetation. Only negative air temperature hinders this process and forces the tree to be in a state of forced rest. But with the onset of a thaw and an increase in air temperature above 10 º Kidneys start to grow. The frosts following the thaw cause the death of flower buds and, subsequently, the absence of fruits. During the late May frosts, already opened buds and apricot flowers suffer. The solution to this problem is to maximize the period of forced rest and delay the swelling of the kidneys. To do this:

  • collect as much snow as possible under the tree in winter so that the roots stay in the cold for as long as possible;
  • spray apricots in early spring with thinned (sprayable) white water-based paint to delay the heating of the branches.
Video: how to delay apricot bloom

The longer the dormant period of a variety, the better for its frost resistance. Varieties with a long dormant period tend to bloom later and have an annual yield. The duration of the period of deep (endogenous) dormancy in different groups of apricot varies greatly. The apricot of the Manchurian-Siberian group has a short dormant period. Genotypes with a long dormant period should be sought among the varieties of the Central Asian group.

A. M. Golubev, agronomist, biochemist, Saratov

Journal "Gardens of Russia", No. 1, January 2011

Apricot pruning

A characteristic feature of the apricot is the formation of the earliest flower buds on overgrowing and annual shoots of the first growth wave. It is these early buds that most often fall under spring frosts during the flowering of the tree.

Often already bloomed apricot suffers from May frosts, especially in central Russia

Flower buds on the branches of the second and third growth waves open six to ten days later, after the frost has passed. Due to this, they have a higher winter hardiness and are not damaged by frost. This pattern was the basis for the summer (green) pruning of apricots. It consists in the fact that at the end of May or at the beginning of June, when the first wave of shoot growth ends, the growths of this wave 30–40 cm long are shortened by half. Thanks to this cut:

  • a well-lit crown is created;
  • improves crown ventilation;
  • fruit buds of the next year are laid with a delay in flowering by 4–8 days compared to the first wave.

Thus, by pruning trees in the summer, it is possible to avoid damage to flower buds during return frosts in May or severe frosts in winter, i.e. increase the winter hardiness of apricots and preserve the future harvest.

Video: apricot pruning in summer (green pruning)

Apricot forms fruiting ovaries on annual shoots, bouquet twigs and spurs. Flower buds located on strong annual growths form groups. Single buds grow on weak shoots. In weakened by insufficient care, tree diseases, the formation of new shoots slows down, and then stops. This reduces the number of overgrowing branches with flower buds. At the age of 6–8 years, spurs and bouquet twigs die off on the branches. These processes lead to a decrease in yield, and subsequently to its complete absence. Pruning is used to restore shoot formation. Depending on the age of the tree, it is divided into shaping, regulating, rejuvenating and sanitary (restoring).

  1. Formative pruning is the first for young seedlings and aims to form the crown and overgrown shoots during their strong growth. Pruning is carried out on seedlings from one to two or three years of age, that is, before fruiting begins.
  2. Regulatory pruning is used on trees from 2–3 years old to slow down the growth of shoots and speed up the period of entry into the fruiting period.
  3. Rejuvenating pruning is necessary for aging trees with a weakening of the growth of branches or their complete cessation. This pruning allows you to stimulate the growth of new shoots and improve vegetation, i.e., the growth of leaves and flower buds.
  4. Restorative pruning is used when trees are damaged by severe frosts, diseases or other adverse conditions. It helps plants regain their ability to grow, develop and sustainably bear fruit.

For a good annual harvest, apricot pruning is carried out regularly

At each stage of tree pruning, a specific task is solved: from crown formation to rejuvenation and restoration of productive function.

Video: pruning to save the crop (crowning)

Planting several trees side by side

For regular and stable fruiting of an apricot, even a self-fertile variety, several trees of different varieties should be planted side by side, coinciding in terms of flowering and fruiting.

Planting several apricots with close flowering periods will help improve the fruiting of each

Balance of roots and crown

When growing apricots, the principle of balance of the root system and the above-ground part of the tree should be observed. Excessive development of the root system leads to the withdrawal of nutrients from the crown to the roots and weakens the tree. Conversely, too much vegetative mass causes a weakening of the productive function of the apricot. If the tree is overloaded with a large number of ovaries, it is desirable to carry out the rationing of the fruit load (removal of excess set fruits) when the natural fall of the excess ovary after flowering is completed.

Another important factor of weak fruiting is unfavorable conditions during the formation of flower buds, which begins after shoot growth (end of June - first half of July). The differentiation of growth and flower buds ends in the second half of October with the formation of ovule rudiments - the basis of the future harvest.

M. V. Kanshina, Doctor of Agricultural Sciences Sci., GNU VNII lupin, Bryansk

Journal "Gardens of Russia", No. 2, February 2012

Video: how to make an apricot bear fruit

Having found out the reasons that cause insufficient fruiting of an apricot, we conclude: it is possible to regulate this process. You just need to follow the rules for caring for fruit trees, use competent agricultural technology, plant the appropriate varieties, and most importantly, love your garden. Apricots, like living beings, feeling care and concern, will thank the gardener with a generous harvest.

  • Author: Valeriya Osipenko