How tall do loquat trees grow


Home & Garden Information Center

Mature loquat tree located on the campus of Clemson University.
Susan James, ©2016, Clemson Extension

Loquat, Eriobotrya japonica, also called Japanese medlar and Japanese plum, is an evergreen shrub in the family Rosaceae that is native to China and Japan. It is valued for its coarse dark green foliage that adds textural interest to the landscape.

Mature Height/Spread

Loquat grows as a small tree or a large shrub at 15 to 30 feet high and wide. Care should be taken to plant trees 25 to 30 feet from structures and power lines. Loquat is a rapid grower putting on up to 3’ of growth per year in ideal conditions. The leaves are alternate, simple, evergreen, and oftentimes whorled at the branch tips. Leaf size is variable from 6 to 12 inches long and 3 to 5 inches wide.

The upper leaf surface is glossy and dark green while the lower leaf surface is covered in short whitish to rusty hairs. The leaf veins are strongly pronounced, reach to the leaf margin, and terminate in a prickly tooth.

Loquat trees flower in the fall (September to January). The fragrant, white to off-white flowers have 5 petals, about 20 stamens, and are ½ to ¾ inch in diameter. Loquat produces yellow, pear-shaped to oblong acidic fruit in the spring (April through June). The fruit is eaten raw or processed into jellies, jams, preserves, and pies. Loquat is grown commercially for fruit production in California and the lower regions of the Gulf States, especially Florida. However, loquat is mostly considered an ornamental in South Carolina because fruit production is limited by frost in the winter and excessive heat and moisture in the summer.

Leaves and flowers of a mature loquat located on the campus of Clemson University.
Susan James, ©2016, Clemson Extension

Loquat flowers are fragrant, white to off-white, have 5 petals, about 20 stamens, and are ½ to ¾ inch in diameter.
Susan James, ©2016, Clemson Extension

Landscape Use

Loquat is installed not only in mixed shrub borders, but also as the specimen plant. Loquat trees tend to develop a nice shape on their own when given adequate space; therefore, pruning specimens is typically unnecessary. Loquat trees respond well to pruning. Mature trees can be pruned to maintain trees at 6 to 12 feet tall. According to Dirr’s Manual of Woody Landscape Plants, loquat can be a feature planting as it “makes a fine espalier against a wall”.

Cultivation

Loquat is adapted to a subtropical to mild-temperate climate (can grow in USDA zones 8 to 10, but is best suited for zone 9 in South Carolina). According to the University of Florida, “Loquat trees are very cold tolerant and may withstand temperatures down to 8 to 10 °F. However, the flowers and fruit are killed by temperatures below 27 °F.” Summer heat, especially above 95 °F, and drying winds can cause leaf scorch and can have a negative affect on tree growth. Loquat will grow in sandy to even heavy clay soils, but the soil must be well-drained. Over- or under-watering can cause loquat trees to perform poorly and even decline. Most trees and shrubs appreciate mulch to deter weeds and to keep the soil moist and cool. Loquat grows best in full sun, but will tolerate part shade.

Propagation

Loquat propagates by cuttings taken in June or July, but may be difficult to root. It should be noted that when loquat is propagated by seed, it does not come true from seed and has a long juvenile period before it will flower or fruit.

Problems

Fire blight can be troublesome on loquat. The bacterium that causes fire blight, Erwinia amylovora, is spread by rain and insects, such as bees, ants, flies, aphids, and beetles.

Treatment for fire blight infection includes the removal and disposal of affected branches by pruning 12 to 18 inches below any infected tissue. Disinfect pruning tools between cuts to discourage the spread of the disease. Avoid excessive nitrogen fertilization that results in susceptible succulent new growth. Insecticides are not recommended during bloom out of concern for pollinators such as bees and flies. Bactericides are typically not feasible due to the difficulty in adequate coverage of blooms and young growing shoots, especially on large specimens. See HGIC 2208, Fire Blight of Fruit Trees for more information.

Cultivars

Some loquat cultivars are suitable for South Carolina’s climate:

  • ‘Golden Nugget’, also known as ‘Thales’ and ‘Placentia’, was planted in California between 1880 and 1900. The fruit are large, flavorful pear-shaped fruit that ripen late in the season. ‘Gold Nugget’ is self-fertile.
  • ‘Champagne’ was introduced into cultivation in California around 1908 by C. P. Taft. ‘Champagne’ has excellent fruit quality for zone 9 and is typically grown commercially. The fruit is elongated, pear-shaped, with white or yellow flesh that is soft, juicy, and subacid to sweet. Fruits mature mid- to late season. ‘Champagne’ is self-fertile.
  • ‘Variegata’ is grown as an ornamental because of white and pale-green splashed variegation of the leaves.

References

Dirr, Michael. Manual of Woody Landscape Plants: Their Identification, Ornamental Characteristics, Culture, Propagation and Uses. Champaign, IL: Stipes Pub., 1998. Print.

Originally published 10/16

If this document didn’t answer your questions, please contact HGIC at [email protected] or 1-888-656-9988.

Home Fruit Production-Loquat

Home Fruit Production-Loquat


HOME FRUIT PRODUCTION-LOQUAT

Julian W. Sauls, Ph. D.
Professor & Extension Horticulturist
Texas Cooperative Extension

December, 1998

Loquat (Japanese plum or Japanese medlar) is probably one of the more familiar of all tropical fruit plants in Texas, although few people outside of south Texas have only rarely grown the fruit. The plant is extremely cold hardy and is commonly grown as an ornamental from north Texas to the Valley.

Native to China, the loquat tree is an evergreen with large, stiff leaves. Growing alone in the open, the tree is very symmetrical, with a compact, dense crown, and can attain a height of 25 feet and a spread of 15 to 20 feet. The leaves are glossy, dark green above and whitish to rusty tomentose beneath. These characteristics of the tree have made the loquat an excellent specimen or accent in the home landscape.

CLIMATE

The mature loquat tree can withstand temperatures of 10 degrees without serious injury, but both flowers and fruit are killed at temperatures below about 27. Unfortunately, loquat blooms in late fall to early winter and must mature its fruit during the winter months. Thus, fruiting rarely occurs except in south Texas or following mild winters in south central or southeast Texas.

SOIL AND SITE SELECTION

Loquat is very well adapted to virtually all soils that have good internal drainage and are relatively non-saline. Soil pH does not seem to matter, as the trees grow equally well in the acid soils of east Texas and the alkaline soils of north, central and south Texas.

If fruit production is a consideration, loquats should be planted on the south or southeast side of the residence to obtain maximum cold protection from the house itself. Otherwise, plant it wherever in the landscape that is desired.

VARIETIES

Quite a large number of selections have been named over the years, several of which are grown in south Florida. Because the fruit has never achieved commercial status in the U.S., nurserymen tend to propagate the trees as loquats rather than as a particular variety of loquat. In Texas, it is likely that most of the loquats are from seed or were vegetatively propagated from seedlings. Consequently, fruit quality is highly variable among loquats in Texas.

PROPAGATION

Loquat is readily propagated from seed, although seedlings are frequently self-infertile and do not come true from seed. Veneer grafting and shield budding onto seedling rootstocks are both fairly successful. Air layering is a good way to propagate from a tree that bears particularly good fruit.

PLANTING AND ESTABLISHMENT

A loquat tree obtained from the local nursery will undoubtedly be container-grown in soilless media. Because soilless media forms an interface with the soil of a planting site, across which neither roots, air nor water move readily, one cannot simply take the plant from the pot and put it into a planting hole intact--as growth will be extremely slow. To assure survival and immediate growth, some of the medium should be removed from the sides and top of the root ball to expose some of the roots. This is best accomplished with a gentle stream of water from the garden hose, removing about an inch of the medium all around the ball. Upon planting, the outer roots in the ball are thereby placed into direct contact with the soil of the planting site, so survival and growth are assured, given proper watering.

Water thoroughly at planting and again every three or four days for the first week. Afterwards, lengthen the interval between waterings over the next several months until the tree is well established. For ease of watering, construct a water ring several inches high and thick, and a couple of feet across, atop the soil around the newly planted tree. Then, simply fill the ring with water as needed. In time, the ring will melt into the surrounding soil, at which time the plant will have become established.

Fertilize only after new growth commences. Use the same fertilizer as you use on the lawn grass (except do not use a fertilizer that contains a weed killer) or use ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) or whatever general fertilizer is recommended by the County Extension Agent in your area.

Based on ammonium sulfate, the young tree should receive about one cup during its first year, two cups in the second and three cups in its third year. For optimal results, the fertilizer should be split into three or more applications annually. Just scatter it on the ground and water it in.

Because a young tree cannot compete well with weeds and turfgrass, an area 2 to 3 feet in diameter, centered on the tree, should be kept free of all other vegetation. The unwanted vegetation can be killed out with a systemic herbicide, then a thick layer of organic mulch will keep it out.

MATURE TREE CARE

Continue to care for the tree as during establishment as regards water, mulching and weed control. As for nutrition, a pound per inch of trunk diameter annually is adequate, with split applications in March and June or March, June and September.

Loquat trees normally do not require pruning, as the tree establishes its natural shape without pruning, assuming that it has adequate space into which to develop.

PRODUCTION, MATURITY AND USE

Loquats should begin to bear in 2 to 3 years, with a well-developed older tree easily producing 100 pounds of fruit. A particularly heavy crop will usually be of smaller fruit size.

The flower panicles normally appear in the late fall on the ends of the branches; the flowers are fragrant, though small and not especially showy. The fruit matures in late winter to spring. Typically, the fruit is about 1.5 inches long and perhaps an inch wide, globose to pear-shaped and pale yellow to golden orange at maturity. It is firm and juicy, and contains two or three large, smooth, dark brown seeds. The flavor varies from sweet to tangy, depending upon the variety or selection.

The fruit can be eaten fresh from the tree or frozen intact for later use. It also can be made into excellent jelly, jam, preserves, cobbler or pies.

PROBLEMS

Loquat has few natural pests. The most serious problem is that of fire blight, the same disease which affects pear and pyracantha. While antibiotic treatment for fire blight is effective, probably the simplest course of action is to prune out the affected branches and destroy them.

Tipburn of the leaves frequently appears during a hot, dry summer as a consequence of soil and water salinity. Tipburn is not particularly deleterious to the tree and there is nothing you can do about it anyway.

Loquat fruit in the Valley can be an alternate host for Mexican fruit fly, but the sterile fly program pretty well keeps Mexfly in check.

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This page revised July 26, 2005

Where does medlar grow, how to plant it correctly, how to grow it in an apartment

Author: deneb | Comments: 3

Medlar is a fruit plant of the Rosaceae family with beautiful leathery leaves, fragrant flowers and edible fruits associated with oriental sweets and fairy tales.

Previously, this tree was grown only as an ornamental crop and the edibility of the fruit was learned much later. Close relatives for medlar are quince and hawthorn. Amateur gardeners often ask themselves the question: where does the medlar grow, is it possible to grow it in an apartment.

The fruits themselves are valued in countries such as Japan, Azerbaijan, Israel. Asia. Southern regions, the Caucasus widely use the plant in many dishes. And in ancient times it was grown even by the Romans and Greeks.

Content:

  1. Varieties of Mushmula
  2. Where Musmula grows, how to plant it
  3. How to grow a mushmule
  4. Agrotechnical secrets of cultivation of mushmulas at home, on the window
  5. , what is the benefit of the mushmula
  6. contraindications for food
  7. 0014

Varieties of medlar

There are two types of this exotic plant.

German

Small tree 3-5 m with large leaves, round fruits with a sweet but tart taste. It has high winter hardiness. Brown colour.

In order to eat fruits, they must be harvested only after the first frost, or soaked in a saturated salt solution. Store no more than a few weeks, and the taste of the fruits is very similar to the usual apple puree.

Japanese

The tree grows up to 7.5 meters high, with white fragrant flowers and oblong leaves. Fruits in shape and color strongly resemble apricots, the same orange color and oblong rounded shape. The flesh inside is lighter, sourish and contains 3-4 brown seeds.

This type of medlar is grown in our Caucasus and fruits are harvested from mid-spring to early summer, soaking and additional processing is not necessary.

Where does medlar grow and how to plant it correctly

This southern guest is quite a frost-resistant plant that can withstand temperatures down to -15 degrees. He loves a lot of light, so the southern and eastern windows in the house are an ideal place for growing it.

Moisture

In summer it is necessary to water the plant with soft water frequently, avoiding the soil to dry out. In winter, this should be done much less frequently, 3-4 times a month. Daily spraying of the crown is not required, it is enough to take a shower once a month and wash off the settled dust.

Illumination

The tree is very fond of light and even direct sunlight, so you can safely put on the most lit windows. With a lack of light, additional artificial lighting should be provided.

Soil

The best soil for planting is soil with a neutral ph. You can buy ready-made or make it yourself by mixing sand, peat, humus and sod in equal proportions. It is recommended to transplant a young plant annually in the spring, and after reaching the age of five, this should be done less often, once every 4 years.

Temperature

It is not required to observe a high temperature regime, in winter a temperature of 8 degrees is favorable.

Pruning

Should be done in June - July after fruit harvest. The plant does not require special special pruning, it is enough to remove dried dry branches and leaves in time.

Top dressing

Feed from spring to autumn with conventional mineral complex fertilizers for flowers or make your own organic fertilizers and it is recommended to apply them the day before watering.

How to grow medlar

You can grow a tree both in open ground and at home. In the garden, this is quite easy to do. The plant loves light soil, sunlight and is not very sensitive to diseases and various pests. They feed the tree, like ordinary apple trees or pears.

One has only to think about how to protect it from cold winds and strong drafts and plant it in a place where there is no nearby groundwater.

To see how the medlar grows in natural conditions, you need to properly germinate the bone. For planting and germination, they take a bone of a large ripe fruit, clean it and sow it in open ground in October.

This method is suitable for southern areas, for areas with a temperate climate, the stone is germinated and grown until the height of the tree in pots reaches 35-40 cm, only after that it is transplanted into the soil, not forgetting to cover it in the first few years from frost.

You can try sowing unripe seeds. This is done in August or early autumn, before planting, the seeds are dipped in a solution of potassium nitrate until the upper protective shell softens. Then the seeds are washed and planted in the ground at a distance of 15-20 cm. Shoots should be expected in the spring.

What is scarification and what is it used for?

If you want to sow seeds in the spring, you need to carry out seed scarification procedures, for this you need:

  • Dry the seeds for several days;
  • Saw off the top layer with sandpaper in a couple of minutes;
  • Soak with ordinary warm water for several days and remove the seeds that have surfaced;
  • Soak for 3 hours in a weak solution of sulfuric acid (1 teaspoon per liter of water), then rinse with water and dry.

Scarified bones are sprinkled with wet sawdust and placed in a refrigerator in a glass container for 15 days, and then left in a warm room for another 15 days. And only after that in the southern regions they are planted immediately in the ground, and in a temperate climate in separate containers.

Propagation by cuttings

The plant can also be propagated vegetatively using cuttings. To do this, cuttings of about 14-18 cm with several good buds are cut from last year's branches.

The cuts are straightened and the leaves cut in half. To root, such a cutting is placed in wet sand, having previously lubricated the lower cut with charcoal. They hatch in an upright position at a shallow depth in an ordinary pot, at the bottom of which drainage is necessarily laid.

After planting, water with settled water at room temperature. To speed up the process, we cover the cutting with a plastic bag, and in about 30-40 days you will get a good rooted medlar seedling.

It is possible to wait for the roots to appear on the cuttings in ordinary water. Cuttings 22-30 cm long from last year's branches without shortening the foliage are placed in an ordinary plastic bottle sealed with dark paper. The water should be room temperature, and somewhere in a month and a half - two months the cuttings will sprout.

Agrotechnical secrets of growing medlar at home, on the window

There is nothing difficult to care for, medlar has bisexual flowers and using artificial pollination, you can achieve a large number of ovaries of future fruits. You can take any deep pot for planting seeds, with large drainage holes, to avoid stagnant water, 5-6 seeds are usually planted in it at a shallow depth.

The soil should be neutral, light, loose and moist for best germination. Any mixture from the store with peat content will do. After planting the seeds, the pot is covered with plastic wrap and transferred to a bright and warm place.

Watering is required every other day, at least. And the top layer of soil should be sprayed daily with soft water to maintain moisture. We change the film every day to prevent the appearance of fungi and mold, and the soil is slightly loose.

The first shoots should be expected in 30-35 days. This is a big step in the further cultivation of the plant. Germination of bones is one of the most difficult stages. After waiting until they grow up to 2 cm, you can remove the film. You also need to water frequently. The plant quickly gains strength and grows up to 12-18 cm per month.

Next, be sure to plant seedlings in different containers. The first flowers appear 3 years after the first transplant, and the fruits are harvested closer to the New Year.

Pinching is welcome, it allows you to form a beautiful lush crown and prevent excessive growth of the plant in height. The procedure is usually carried out in the spring, it is completely painless and this feature is often used by bonsai designers. Pinching the plant helps to achieve bushiness and an interesting shape.

What are the benefits of medlar

The medlar is a delicious fruit that resembles strawberries, apricots and apples at the same time. Eat fresh food, in the form of various compotes, jams, preserves, wine, juices.

Having learned where and how medlar grows, it's time to read how it is useful:

  • Fruits improve the functioning of the gastrointestinal tract;
  • Helps treat intestinal infections due to phytoncidal anti-inflammatory substances in the composition;
  • Stimulates the immune system as it contains a large amount of vitamin C;
  • Helps in tissue and cell regeneration;
  • A large proportion of potassium in the composition normalizes the cardiovascular system, leads to normal blood pressure;
  • Prevents the development of oncology;
  • Prevents natural aging;
  • Tones the body and helps relieve fatigue after exercise;
  • Stops renal colic;
  • Has a laxative effect;
  • Lowers cholesterol levels.

Not only the fruits are healing, but also the leaves. All kinds of decoctions and tinctures are made from them and used for bronchitis, cough, asthma, diarrhea, inflammatory processes in the body.

Contraindications for eating

Contraindicated in people suffering from:

  • gastritis, duodenal ulcers;
  • eat with caution in diseases of the pancreas.

Sufficiently allergenic, therefore, for small children, the fruit is introduced gradually, starting with small portions. Unripe fruits cause indigestion.

Medlar is an excellent plant with low-calorie dietary fruits. It has a large number of useful properties, a fairly unpretentious tree that will delight you with its juicy fruits and will not cause much difficulty in growing.

Even a novice amateur gardener can grow and taste the delicious fruits of the medlar plant, common in the southern regions, but important points should not be missed at each stage of the plant's development. Knowledge of agricultural techniques will help save your time and energy, and at the same time get the desired result.

About where the medlar grows, what is useful and how to plant and grow it, look at the video:

photos and types, cultivation and care of the plant

Medlar is an evergreen or deciduous fruit plant from the Pink family. It belongs to the subfamily Apple and is also found under the names loqua, shesek and eriobothria. Plants live in subtropical regions in the southeast and south of Asia (from Japan to Abkhazia). At home, the fruits of medlar are known to everyone. They are highly valued for their taste and medicinal properties. But in more northern regions, few people know about this plant, since the fruits are practically unsuitable for transportation. In fact, it is not so difficult to grow medlar in the garden and even at home.

Botanical description

Medlar is a perennial tree or large shrub 4-8 m high. Annual growth is most intensive at the age of up to 7 years. Life expectancy reaches 50 years. The root system is highly branched, it is located close to the soil surface. The branches are covered with smooth dark brown, almost black, bark. Young shoots have a reddish-gray color and felt pubescence.

Large whole leaves, elongated or oval, pubescent or glabrous. The leathery surface is quite hard to the touch. Between the veins the foliage is wrinkled, swollen. The length of the plate reaches 30 cm, and the width is 8 cm. The leaves have a uniform dark green color.

Flowering begins in spring (April-May) or autumn (October-November). In the axils of the leaves of young or last year's branches, dense panicles bloom with cream or white flowers 1-2 cm in diameter. Each corolla has 5 free petals, 2-3 ovaries and up to 40 stamens. Flowers exude a pleasant sweetish aroma with hints of almonds.

A few weeks after flowering, fleshy fruits of oval, pear-shaped or round shape ripen. Their diameter is about 6-8 cm. In the center there are 1-5 rather large seeds with a tough brown skin. The fruits contain yellow or orange juicy flesh. The medlar berry is edible. It has a sweet and sour taste and is similar to apple, pear and strawberry at the same time. The peel of the fruit is thin and easily damaged, so they are often consumed fresh, not stored or transported.

Types of medlar

A very modest genus of medlar has only 3 species. Of these, 2 are used in horticulture.

Japanese medlar. A sprawling tree up to 8 m tall with rather thin branches covered with dark bark. Oval foliage up to 25 cm long and 7-8 cm wide has a pubescent leathery surface. Leaves grow on small petioles. Paniculate inflorescences bloom in September-October at the ends of the shoots. They consist of white or yellowish flowers with a diameter of 1-2 cm. The heat-loving variety absolutely does not tolerate negative temperatures. By the end of spring, round or pear-shaped fruits ripen. They are arranged in clusters up to 12 pieces. Berries have juicy, fragrant flesh and bright yellow skin. Varieties:

  • Tanaka - orange-yellow pear-shaped fruits with pinkish flesh and sweet and sour taste;
  • Champagne - yellow fruit with hairy skin and soft flesh;
  • Siles - apricot-like fruits weighing up to 80 g;
  • Frosty - a variety for home and greenhouse sets large red-brown fruits without astringency.

Japanese medlar

German medlar , Caucasian or Crimean. Deciduous plant in the tropics can grow up to 8 m in height. Its smooth, highly branched shoots are covered with dark green oval leaves 8-15 cm long and 3-4 cm wide. The foliage turns red in autumn. White flowers bloom in May. The fruits ripen in autumn. They are round in shape and reddish-brown in color. Inside is a small amount of seeds. Before the onset of frost, the flesh is tart, sour and hard, and then becomes soft and sweet. The species is winter-hardy and suitable for open ground in temperate climates.

German medlar

Propagation methods

Medlar can be grown in two ways:

  • from the stone;
  • vegetatively.

In the southern regions, planting is carried out immediately in open ground, otherwise seedlings should be pre-grown. Before planting, they try not to extract the seeds from the fruits, as they quickly lose their germination when dry. They must first be scarified, and then soaked in warm water for 2-3 days. After that, they are distributed in boxes with wet sand or sawdust. For 2 weeks, the container is placed in the refrigerator, and then returned to a warm room for the same period. The alternation is repeated for three months. Then the seeds are planted in pots with sandy-peat soil to a depth of 3 cm. Without such preparation, germination can last up to a year.

Shoots appear after 30-40 days. Plants with 3-4 leaves dive, cutting the root. Medlar seedlings develop quite quickly and do not require additional care. Planting is desirable to carry out with the preservation of a clod of earth, so as not to damage the fragile roots. If instead of a tree you need to get a shrub, pinch the top. Flowering and fruiting begins from 4-5 years of age.

Caucasian medlar can be propagated by layering. To do this, on the lower branch in the fall, the bark is damaged and the shoot is pressed to the ground. It is fixed and sprinkled with soil. The cuttings are watered regularly. The rooting process is not fast, a full-fledged rhizome will develop only after 2 years. The separation of the layering and transplantation is carried out after the foliage has fallen.

Japanese loquat is best propagated vegetatively by cuttings. To do this, use last year's shoots with 2 nodes 12-15 cm long. The leaf plates are shortened by half. The cut is treated with wood ash and planted in pots with loose fertile soil to a depth of 4-5 cm strictly vertically. The stalk is watered and covered with a film. The room temperature must be maintained at +25…+27°C. Rooting lasts about a month.

Varietal plants are also propagated by grafting. As a stock, you can use plum, pear, hawthorn, quince. The graft is fixed in a split or behind the bark.

Planting and care in the open field

Most often, outside the subtropics, German medlar and its varieties are grown in the garden. They try to choose the most sunny and open place for the plant. Soils should be light, loose and nutritious (sandy loam soil, soddy soil, loam). Slightly acidic soil with deep waters is best suited.

Since the medlar has a superficial rhizome, a planting hole 50-70 cm deep will be sufficient. It should be a third more than the root system of the plant. The free space is filled with drainage material (expanded clay, crushed stone, gravel). The space between the roots is filled with earth mixed with sand and compost.

Immediately after planting, the plants are fertilized with nitrophosphate or superphosphate. The ground near the trunk is mulched with peat or humus. Although medlar is a dioecious plant, for a better harvest, 2-3 trees are planted nearby to allow for cross-pollination. But planting an apricot or a nut next to it is not worth it. Each copy needs 3-4 m of free space.

Medlar likes regular watering, but the portion of the liquid should be such that it quickly absorbs into the soil. You should also loosen the soil more often.

The plant has a long growing season, so there is a risk of young shoots not maturing and freezing. Fertilizer is applied to speed up the process. Young seedlings are fed every 20-25 days, starting from the moment the fruits appear. Older plants - every 1.5-2 months. Mullein solution, as well as phosphorus and potassium complexes are used as dressings.

To form a crown and stimulate the harvest, pruning is carried out regularly, since flowers and fruits are formed on shoots of 1-2 years of life. You should regularly remove 1-2 old branches and thin out thickened places. Usually cut 25-50% of the branches.

Medlar almost does not suffer from plant diseases. Sometimes it is affected by sooty fungus or brown rust. As a preventive measure in early spring (before the leaves appear), they are treated with "Bordeaux liquid" (3%). Sometimes on the leaves you can see scale insects or aphids. They help bioinsecticides. They are quite harmless and do not accumulate in fruits.

Growing at home

Japanese medlar has long been used as an ornamental plant for greenhouses, conservatories and other premises. They call it winterbloom. The plant can be planted in a pot or a large skating rink. Young specimens are transplanted every 2-4 years, and over time they only replace the topsoil.

Medlar is very fond of light, so it should be placed in the brightest place, under direct sunlight. Varieties that bloom in winter need additional lighting, otherwise the fruits may not start.

The optimum air temperature is +18…+25°C. In the summer, the pot is exposed to fresh air. It is advisable to protect the plant from drafts and bring it in during cold snaps. In winter, it is recommended to lower the temperature to +2…+5°C.

Water the indoor medlar often and plentifully. It is desirable that the soil does not dry out at all. In winter, watering is reduced to prevent dampness and the development of rot. The soil is loosened between irrigations.

Since plants live in the tropics, high humidity is important for them. However, frequent spraying is undesirable for pubescent leaves. It is better to place pallets with water and wet expanded clay nearby. Warm showers are allowed from time to time.

In April-September the bushes are fed twice a month with organic fertilizer. It is well bred and poured into the soil.

Indoor plants are more often formed in the form of a lush bush, tree or bonsai. To do this, pinching is carried out and excess shoots are removed. Lateral branches are formed weakly and only from the axils of the upper pair of leaves. The best time for pruning is after ripening and fruit picking.

Useful properties

Medlar is a rare plant in which absolutely everything is useful. The fruits contain a large amount of sucrose, fructose, pectins. All parts contain vitamins, micro and macro elements, as well as tannins and phytoncides.

The fruits can be eaten fresh, used to make jam, compote and alcoholic beverages.


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