How tall does a satsuma tree grow

How to Grow and Care for a Satsuma Orange Tree

Common Name Satsuma orange, Satsuma, satsuma mandarin, unshu mikan, cold hardy mandarin
Botanical Name Citrus unshiu
Family Rutaceae
Plant Type Evergreen citrus tree
Mature Size 10–15 ft. tall, 5–10 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Rich, moist
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 8-11 (USDA)
Native Area China

Satsuma Tree Care

When planting a satsuma tree, you should wait until the temperature remains consistently above 50 degrees during the day, for at least a week. This helps to ensure cold temperatures will not kill the plant in its vulnerable state and allows the tree to acclimate to mild temperatures before the heat of summer. If a hard frost does occur late in the spring season, cover the young sapling's branches loosely with a blanket to protect it.

Location is also important. Satsumas do not do well when exposed to wind, so in addition to choosing a location with plenty of sun, you will want some shelter provided by a building or a fence.

The Spruce / K. Dave

The Spruce / K. Dave

The Spruce / K. Dave


Most fruit trees require full sun conditions, and Satsumas are no exception. They should ideally get eight to 10 hours of direct sunlight, especially in spring during blossom and fruit formation.


Citrus trees prefer sandy, loamy soil with a slightly acidic pH. Satsumas are adaptable to different soil conditions such as rocks or clay, but will not tolerate salty or alkaline soils. The soil must have good drainage.


Satsuma trees need ample water, so plan on consistent and deep watering throughout the growing season. After planting, water every two to three days, and then once every week to ten days thereafter during the growing season. If you are experiencing a dry spell, watering will need to be more frequent to keep the soil moist.

Temperature and Humidity

Although Satsumas are more cold-hardy than other citrus trees, they still need consistently warm temperatures during their growing season. Cool (not cold) winters and hot, humid summers produce the best fruit harvest.

Mature trees can easily survive in short periods down to 14 degrees Fahrenheit during the winter. If temperatures dip lower than this, or if you have a young tree, implementing some cold protection strategies is recommended. Mounding the base of the trunk with around 2 feet of soil during these times can be beneficial (it should be removed again when the frosts pass). Alternatively, you could invest in a trunk wrap. Winter temperatures between 25 to 35 degrees Fahrenheit are actually said to enhance the sweetness of the fruits.


Satsuma trees benefit from regular fertilizing. It's best to fertilize in late January to early February when the tree is producing new growth. You may use a balanced 8-8-8 citrus fertilizer that contains nitrogen. A two-year-old tree can handle one to 1.5 pounds of fertilizer.

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Types of Satsuma Orange

There are over 100 Satsuma cultivars to choose from. They can vary considerably in terms of when they mature, shape, color, and harvest quantity and quality. Some popular and readily available examples include:

  • 'Owari': This productive tree produces high-quality fruit that rarely produces seeds
  • 'Brown Select': This tree has a less droopy habit than most and has a dense, compact form. The rind easily separates from the flesh of the acidic, sweet fruit
  • 'Silverhill': The shape of the fruit on this tree is flatter than most, and it has a high sugar and low acid content, making it particularly sweet. The tree is known for being vigorous and productive, with a more upright growth habit than most varieties.
  • 'Early St. Ann': The fruit is ready for harvesting from mid-September through October—this is around a month earlier than most other cultivars.


Because Satsuma trees have a prostrate growth habit, pruning is essential to prevent fruit on low-lying limbs from touching the ground. The best time to prune your tree is early spring after the danger of frost. Prune any branches growing below 18 inches above the ground. Remove leaf debris from beneath the trees to help keep them clean and disease-free.

Propagating Satsuma Trees

Like most fruit trees, Satsuma trees sold commercially are usually grafted specimens, in which fruiting branches are grafted onto rootstock from another type of citrus, selected for its hardiness and disease resistance. Grafting is a delicate process that is difficult for amateurs, so citrus trees are usually not propagated outside the commercial industry. However, it is certainly possible to propagate a Satsuma tree by rooting a branch cutting. But be aware that the resulting tree is not likely to perform in the same way as the parent tree. If you want to try it, here's how:

  1. During the active summer growth period, use sharp pruners to clip several 4- to 6-inch branch segments, each containing a flexible green tip leading to firmer older wood. The cutting should have at least three sets of healthy leaves. Angle the cuts at 45 degrees.
  2. Remove the leaves from the lower two-thirds of the cutting. Dip the cutting in rooting hormone.
  3. Plant each cutting in a small pot filled with porous seed-starter potting mix. The bottom one-third of the cutting should be buried. Thoroughly moisten the potting mix, and press it firmly around the cutting to hold it in place.
  4. Place the cutting in a loosely secured plastic bag to hold in moisture, then place it in a location with bright, indirect light, at a temperature of 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
  5. Monitor the bagged cutting, moistening the potting mix when necessary. When the cutting has developed a good network of roots (you will feel resistance when lightly tugging on the cutting), loosen the plastic bag to allow the cutting to begin acclimating to drier conditions. It can take as many as six weeks or even longer for the cutting to develop roots.
  6. After several more weeks, when you see new green growth developing, the plastic bag can be removed entirely. Continue to grow the new tree in its container until it is large enough to transplant into the landscape or into a permanent patio container. It's not uncommon to grow the small tree in its starter container for a full year or more before transplanting it into the landscape.

How to Grow Satsuma Trees From Seed

It is no easy task to grow satsuma orange trees from seed, because the fruit is largely seedless (one or two seeds per fruit), and because it can take as much as eight years for the plants to mature into fruit-producing trees. Further, the resulting plant will likely look and behave differently than the parent tree, which is usually a grafted plant.

But if you want to try this method of propagation, peel open some ripe fruit and extract the seeds. You may have trouble finding them since satsumas are nearly seedless. Plant the seeds in small pots filled with a citrus tree potting mix, just barely covering the seeds. Moisten the potting mix, then place the post in loosely secured plastic bags and place them in a spot with very bright indirect light and warm temperatures (70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit; you may need to use a heating mat).

Periodically mist the potting mix to keep it damp. Within 30 to 60 days, the seeds should germinate and sprout. When the seedlings are a few inches tall, remove the plastic covering and move the pots to a sheltered outdoor location where they will receive shade during the midday hours. Grow them in the original starter pots until fall, at which time you can transplant them into larger pots and move them to a sheltered location for the winter.

It's common practice to grow Satsuma trees in pots for several years before they are large enough to plant in the landscape. While they are in pots, move the plants to a sheltered location for each winter period.

Potting and Repotting Satsuma Trees

Although Satsuma trees can grow to as much as 20 feet tall, they can be trained to stay smaller and can be grown in containers. Keeping your mature Satsuma pruned to about 5 or 6 feet tall and wide is a good rule of thumb. Use a fairly large container, at least 20 gallons in size, and fill it with a commercial citrus tree potting mix. Any material will suffice for the container, though large black plastic container is a standard choice for growing citrus trees. Make sure the pot has ample drainage holes.

The main benefit of planting Satsumas in containers is that they can be moved indoors during the fall and winter. Placed near a sunny window and watered regularly (mist the leaves to keep the humidity up, as indoor heating has a drying effect), your Satsuma will produce tasty fruit for you during the cold months.

Repotting is typically required every three or four years, or whenever the roots begin to outgrow the pot and fill the drainage holes. When repotting, lift the plant out of its exiting container, prune back 2 to 3 inches of the roots, then repot in the same container with some added fresh potting mix. (You can also pot up to a container about 25 percent larger than the old pot, but eventually this may become impractical).


Potted Satsuma trees are often moved indoors to a sunny window in regions that experience regular freezing temperatures. These trees can survive temps down to 15 degrees Fahrenheit, but most growers take no chances when predictions call for extended below-freezing temps. In-ground trees can be protected with a frost blanket in regions where winter frost is common.

Withhold feeding during the winter months for young trees, but established trees more than two years old should be fed in late January or early February.


Satsumas are generally harvested between October and December, depending on the cultivar grown. The fruit doesn't do well hanging on the tree after maturity. Prompt picking when ripe is important, and they can then be stored in a refrigerator with temperatures between 32 and 36 degrees Fahrenheit.

As the fruit reaches maturity, the rind will become looser (separating a bit from the flesh), and the surface will become bumpier. The ripe fruit coloring can vary depending on the climate. In humid regions, the fruit may be ripe even while it is still green, and a reddish-orange hue is possible when night temperatures are cool.

Because the rinds are loose, it is best to clip the fruit from the tree rather than plucking. If you damage the rind when picking, it will lead to fast decay. Of all the citrus fruits, the satsuma is one of the most delicate, and care should be taken when handling it.

Common Pests & Plant Diseases

Although Satsuma trees are hardy compared to some other citrus varieties, they can be prone to a fungal disease called sour orange scab. This causes lesions on leaves, branches, and fruit. Thankfully, it doesn't usually affect the quality of the fruit flesh. Other fungal diseases are also possible, all best treated with a preventive fungicide spray.

Mites, scale, mealybugs, leafminers, and aphids are all possible insect pests, though Satsuma is somewhat more resistant to insect damage than other types of citrus.

How to Get Satsuma Trees to Bloom

The fragrant white blossoms of satsuma trees normally appear in early spring, from March to April. The green fruit becomes evident in August, turning orange in late September through December.

When a Satsuma doesn't flower or produce fruit, it is most often because the tree is not getting enough direct sunlight. These trees need at least eight hours, and preferably more, in order to produce robust flowers and fruit.

A lack of nutrients can also compromise the blooming period. Mature trees need a hefty feeding in January or February to support bud development.

Common Problems With Satsuma Trees

Satsuma is susceptible to some of the same fungal diseases common to other types of citrus (see above). In addition, Satsuma and other citrus species can be susceptible to chlorosis if grown in soil that is too alkaline. The main symptom is leaves that develop a light green color, often with darker veins. Take steps to lower the soil pH to a more acidic level to rectify this problem.

The other common complaint is from growers who take the "cold resistant" label too literally. Although these trees can survive an occasional cold snap down to 15 degrees Fahrenheit, they are by no means tolerant of extended cold. In borderline regions, it is all too common for trees to experience branch die-back when cold winter temperatures kill off the branch tips. Fortunately, it's an easy matter to prune off these damaged branches. Unless the cold spell is prolonged, Satsuma trees usually survive in zones 8 to 11. Even zone 7 gardeners can succeed with this plant if they're willing to move potted trees indoors when the weather turns cold.

Everything You Need to Know About Owari Mandarin Trees

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Owari Mandarin trees are cold-hardy orange trees that produce juicy, easy-to-peel, seedless fruit throughout the holiday season.

Reviews by This Old House Reviews Team 07/22/2022 12:00 am

Owari Mandarin trees, also known as Satsumas, produce a bounty of juicy, easy-to-peel, seedless oranges that ripen early, through December. Because they’re self-pollinating, you only need one to gain this harvest.

Owari Mandarin trees can be planted as stand-out specimens or to add a pop of color on your patio, planted in a pot that can be taken indoors during the cooler months. This cold-hardy orange variety is available even to those in colder climates, and its clusters of fragrant white blossoms attract all sorts of pollinators in the spring.

Owari Mandarin Trees at a Glance

  • Juicy, easy-to-peel, seedless fruit
  • Fruit ripens early
  • Self-pollinating
  • Attract bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds
  • Cold-hardy down to 15 degrees Fahrenheit
  • Can be planted in-ground or as potted patio plant


Owari Mandarin trees grow in a rounded shape, with slender, spreading branches. Their inch-long leaves are dark green year-round. In spring, delicate clusters of fragrant white flowers bloom. In late fall, they are replaced by deep orange fruits with smooth to slightly rough skin that are heavy enough to drag down the branches.

These trees are compact, growing to just 8-12 feet tall outdoors with a 10-foot spread. They can grow even smaller as potted plants.


AppearanceSpreading branches grow to rounded shape with dark green, evergreen inch-long leaves. Clusters of white flowers in spring. Oranges ripen in October to December, with bold hues and smooth to slightly rough skin
Height8-12 feet
Hardiness ZonesIndoors: 4-11 Outdoors: 8-11
Type of treeEvergreen
Sunlight requirementsFull sun to partial shade
Soil compositionHighly adaptable but prefer moist, well-drained, sandy soil with a neutral pH

Hardiness Zones

USDA Hardiness Zones indicate the regions where plants can grow based on minimum winter temperatures. Owari Mandarin trees can be grown as patio plants that are taken indoors from the first frost to spring in Zones 4-11. The trees can only be planted in the ground if they are in Zones 8-11, which is throughout the south, most of Texas, and along the West Coast.


The best times to plant Owari Mandarin trees are during spring or fall. We recommend taking these steps:

  • Choose a planting site that receives full sun to partial shade and has well-drained soil—if the soil is wetter, you’ll want to plant the tree on a small mound.
  • Clear away any weeds, turfgrass, or debris.
  • Dig a hole 2-3 times the width of the container your Owari Mandarin tree came in. For well-draining soil, you want the hole to have the same depth as the container.
  • Begin backfilling the hole with soil. Stop halfway and pour water into the hole. Once it drains away, continue filling in the soil.
  • In wetter areas, build a slight but wide mound about 1-2 inches higher than the surrounding soil and follow the same process.

Growing Conditions

Owari Mandarin trees are low-maintenance, able to adapt to a wide range of soil types, and flexible about the amount of sun they receive. If you live in a cooler region, it is advised you bring your Owari Mandarin tree indoors from the first frost until spring.

Sun and Shade

These trees grow in full sun or in partial shade. Their preference is full sun, but they will grow well in both.


Owari Mandarin trees are highly adaptable to a wide range of soils but flourish in well-drained, moist, sandy soil with a neutral pH. If the soil is not well-drained, you will need to plant your Owari Mandarin tree on a mound.


When your tree is first planted, water it twice a week to help it grow a strong, extensive root system. After a few weeks, you can reduce planting to once a week. Only water your tree when the first 1-2 inches are dry. You can test this by inserting your index finger into the soil and checking to see if it’s moist.


Do not fertilize your Owari Mandarin tree until the tree has begun growing. Once there is visible growth, you can feed your tree with specialized citrus tree fertilizer once every six weeks from spring through summer.


Owari Mandarin trees do not require annual pruning, since they will grow in a rounded shape naturally. You only need to prune dead, damaged, or diseased branches in winter. You may want to trim the branches if they are outgrowing their space. That could cast shade on lower limbs and inhibit fruit production.


Owari Mandarin trees ripen early—during the holiday season, from roughly October to December. The oranges are deep in color with skin that ranges from smooth to slightly rough. The oranges need to be picked as soon as they ripen, but they store well. Harvest them carefully—if you pull the fruit directly from the tree, the skin may tear. Cut the fruits off from the stalk instead.

Frequently Asked Questions

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Characteristics of Satsuma, the sweetest citrus

Have you ever heard of Satsuma ? The truth is that it would not be surprising if someone confused it with a tangerine: they are very similar! The leaves are long and dark green, the fruits are just as sour, but without any unpleasant sensations ... and their growth is the same.

However, the origin is different. And its characteristics, of course, are not quite the same. Know her .


  • 1 Origin and characteristics of satsum

    Origin and characteristics of satsuma

    Our protagonist is a small tree, or rather an evergreen shrub of Japanese origin, which can reach a maximum height of 4 meters . It is known as satsuma, unshu mikan, or simply mikan, which means "sweet citrus" in Japanese. The plant belongs to the genus citrus, that is, to such citrus fruits as the orange tree, tangerine tree, grapefruit and many, many others.

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    It is characterized by lanceolate dark green leaves. Every spring, white, fragrant flowers appear, about 3 cm in diameter, consisting of five petals. After pollination, the fruit begins to ripen, which will be ready in autumn-winter, as soon as it reaches a size of 5 to 7. 5 cm in diameter and changes its color from green to orange.

    What do they care about?

    If you dare to get a sample, we recommend that you follow our advice to enjoy the plant, the yield of which will increase as it grows and strengthens 🙂:


    Satsuma must be outside in full sun . Since it is not very large and does not take up much space, it is ideal for placement next to large plants and even about 4 meters from the pool, for example.


    • orchard : Like all citrus fruits, it requires fertile soil with good drainage capacity and a neutral, slightly acidic (not less than 5) or slightly alkaline (not more than 7.5) pH.
    • Pots : A good mix would be 70% urban garden substrate (sold here) + 30% perlite (sold here) or similar.


    Irrigation will be moderate to frequent , especially depending on the climate (the warmer and drier, the more water will be needed). To give you an idea, in a Mediterranean coastal climate with temperatures as low as 38°C in summer and as low as -2°C in winter, and with a fairly noticeable dry season (it can last for about six months, coinciding with spring and ending with early autumn), it should be watered from 3 to 4 times a week, except in winter when 1 or 2 waterings per week is sufficient.

    With this in mind, you will be able to know when to water. But when in doubt, always test soil moisture before watering by inserting a thin wooden stick or using a digital moisture meter (Sold Not Found.).


    Image - Wikimedia / そ ら み み (Soramimi)

    From the beginning of spring until the fruits ripen It is highly recommended to fertilize the satsuma with organic fertilizers such as guano (sold here), cow dung, compost and others. You can also add algae extract fertilizer (for sale here) occasionally (like once every two months), but I insist you should not overuse it, because although it is very rich in nutrients, it is too alkaline.

    If you see the leaves turning yellow and you have it in calcareous soil, irrigate with ferrous sulfate or fertilize regularly with acid plant fertilizer (available here) according to package directions.


    You really don't need it. In late winter, remove dead, diseased and weak branches.


    This is a plant which is propagated by seed or grafting grafting on other citrus fruits such as three leaf orange or Citrus trifoliata .


    To germinate, seeds must be sown in beds (pots, seedling trays, etc.) with a special substrate (for sale here), burying them no more than 1 cm and keeping them moist, but not waterlogged, outdoors in partial shade.

    Thus, they germinate in 1-2 months.


    What is done - grafting a gusset or bud into T using a grafting knife and tape to connect the graft to the host plant.

    All the information is here:

    Article subject:

    How to inoculate the buds

    Planting or transplanting time

    The ideal time to plant in the garden or change the pot is in the spring of .


    En Fall-Winter . Samples obtained from seeds take an average of eight years to bear fruit.

    Country Style

    Withstands temperatures down to -9ºC . As a curiosity, you should know that they say that the colder it passes, the sweeter its fruits will be.

    What is the use of satsuma?


    This is a very ornamental, elegant shrub and quite easy to care for. Can be both in soil and in pots, and thrives well in a wide variety of climates .


    This is the most popular use. Specific, is used for juicing , although it can also be consumed as a dessert.

    What do you think of satsuma?

    The content of the article complies with our principles of editorial ethics. To report a bug, click here.

    Sumac - photo, description, cultivation and care, use in the garden

    If you have not met this bright spectacular tree, autumn is the time to get to know him. Here is fluffy sumac, or deer-horned sumac (Rhus typhina) - one of the main favorites of the autumn garden. What kind of plant is this, where did it come from and how to grow it in your garden, we tell in the article.

    Bright, blazing purple foliage is the main decoration of staghorn sumac

    Follow us:

    What kind of plant and where does it come from

    Stag sumac (R. typhina) belongs to the sumac family and is a low multi-stemmed tree or shrub. In nature, it grows up to 10–12 m in height. Garden forms rarely exceed 4-6 m.

    The plant is native to the eastern parts of North America, where it grows in abundance on dry edges of deciduous forests, roadsides, and low mountain slopes. Sumac came to Europe at the beginning of the 17th century and was immediately liked by gardeners with its unusual appearance.

    In spring, the plant sends out thick shoots covered with soft brownish-gray down. They resemble young deer horns - hence its specific name "deer-horned".

    Young shoots of sumac are soft and fluffy, like deer antlers

    The large pinnate composite leaves of sumac reach a length of 50–60 cm and resemble palm or fern fronds. Each leaf consists of long toothed leaflets with a dark green velvety surface (from 11 to 31). The peak of decorativeness of the shrub falls in autumn, when the leaves acquire a stunning crimson color and seem to glow from the inside. Moreover, before turning red, the foliage changes the entire palette of shades - from golden yellow to fiery scarlet.

    The sumac bush in the autumn garden looks like a blazing fire

    The sumac flowers are no less original. In June, thick red candles 15–20 cm high appear on the tops of the shoots, consisting of many small flowers exuding a fresh cucumber-vinegar aroma. For this smell, sumac received a second name - vinegar tree.

    In place of candles, dense clusters of berries form over time, decorating the crown until winter

    Sumac is a plant with dioecious polygamy. This means that it produces female and male flowers separately. The first are the same candles that turn into clusters of red berries, the second are loose yellowish-green inflorescences necessary for pollination. They are not found in their pure form on one tree, but the plant can form hermaphroditic (bisexual) flowers.

    Vinegar fruits are edible. In the US, they are still used to make homemade refreshing drinks that taste like lemonade. But most often the berries are left on the tree - as a winter decoration and a treat for birds.

    Thanks to dense panicles with red berries, sumac looks decorative even in winter.

    How to plant sumac

    Autumn is the best time to plant an ornamental tree.

    In the garden, it is desirable to choose a sunny, sheltered from the wind, well-drained soil, as it does not tolerate root entrapment. In relation to other growing conditions, sumac is a real Spartan. It will grow both on fertile loams and on poor sandy or stony soils, an alkaline and slightly acidic environment is suitable for it, it is resistant to diseases and pests, it easily tolerates heat, drought, and frosty winters. And if it freezes, it always recovers.

    When planting, two important features of the plant must be taken into account.

    1. Sumac gives abundant shoots. And if you do not want it to spread through the garden and crowd out other crops, immediately provide for limiters for root growth. To do this, a special root barrier or a plastic border is dug into the soil to a depth of at least 50 cm. They do this along the perimeter of the crown at a distance of 1.5–2 m from the trunk, so that the roots have a place to grow.
    2. Sumac is a dioecious culture. If you want to have a lot of fruit, plant at least two vinegar trees nearby.

    When planting in autumn, it is advisable to insulate the root zone with fallen leaves, spruce branches, so that the plant is guaranteed to overwinter and take root.

    Acetic tree grows very fast, increasing in height and width by 30–40 cm annually

    How to take care of the tree

    Another good thing about vinegar tree is that it requires almost no maintenance.

    Water it only in case of extreme heat and prolonged drought. The plant also does not need to be fed. Although if you see that the growth is insufficient, in the spring you can pour humus or vegetable compost into the ground around the trunk. This will give the tree a good start.

    Sumac does not require annual pruning, although it is not afraid of it, because it grows quickly. Usually in the spring they carry out sanitary cleaning of the crown, removing frozen branches. They also form a plant, shortening too advanced shoots.

    Due to its high plasticity, the vinegar tree can be grown on a trunk, formed into a multi-stemmed tree, shrub.

    Since the plant is prone to overgrowth, it is not recommended to loosen the soil in the root zone. By damaging the roots, you thereby stimulate the emergence of young trees. By the way, the same can be said about excessive feeding. The better you take care of the tree, the more abundant its growth will be.

    In order not to loosen the soil, it is best to sod or mulch the root zone with decorative gravel. If the growth has appeared and needs to be removed, cut the shoots at the level with the soil, but do not dig them out, otherwise you will get several trees instead of one.

    The best way to avoid undergrowth is to cover the trunk circle with grass and keep the plant "starving"

    How to propagate sumac

    Acetic tree belongs to the group of so-called walking plants. This means that the main method of its reproduction is root shoots. The offspring, which appeared in the spring, by the autumn forms its own root system. It can be safely separated from the mother plant and transplanted.

    How to use in landscape design

    Stag horn sumac looks most advantageous in single plantings. A low tree or shrub with large exotic leaves and intricately curved stems can be planted on the lawn in front of the house, in the courtyard, against the backdrop of an evergreen hedge of conifers.

    Stag horn sumac in the landscape design of the city yard

    Several plants planted in a group also look beautiful. In this case, you can also count on a generous harvest of berries.

    Three sumacs on the lawn form a very picturesque group.

    Vinegar can be combined with other garden trees, shrubs, perennials.

    • The unusual appearance of the North American guest is emphasized by varietal conifers with a creeping crown, as well as small-leaved plants - birch, Thunberg barberry, skumpia, cotoneaster.
    • Autumn crimson color will effectively "shoot" against the background of evergreen plantations with dark green and blue needles.
    • The purple crown looks picturesque surrounded by dark purple asters and yellow chrysanthemums.

    Acetic tree in horticultural compositions

    Thanks to its fast growing creeping rhizome, sumac is used to stabilize the soil by planting it on slopes. The plant also looks organic on an alpine hill, where it can successfully replace another favorite of the autumn garden - Japanese maple.

    Stony slopes are closest to the natural habitat of sumac

    Ornamental forms and varieties

    In addition to the species Rhus typhina, several ornamental forms of this plant are grown in gardens.

    Noteworthy is the vinegar tree Rhus typhina laciniata with serrated leaves. In autumn, it turns red, orange, gold, but also looks decorative in the rest of the warm season - deeply dissected foliage gives the shrub the appearance of a tree fern.

    Decorative form of sumac Rhus typhina laciniata

    No less interesting is the variegated variety with yellow-green leaves Tiger Eyes. It is more capricious: it loves warmth, it grows slowly, it can burn in the bright sun - therefore it is better to plant it in partial shade. Foliage retains its Chartreuse color in spring and summer, turning bright orange in autumn.

    Tiger eye sumac in garden design

    If you are interested in this plant, it is not too late to plant it. Young seedlings take root well after autumn planting and will delight you with fluffy “deer horns” in spring.

    Learn more