How to build an arbor from tree branches

How to Build a Branch Arbor | Home Guides

By Amelia Allonsy

If you live in a wooded area or recently cut down an unwanted tree, you probably have a large supply of tree branches. While at first glance the branches might appear useless, you can use them to liven up your yard by making a rustic garden arbor. Arbors work well to define the transition between different areas of your property and can also provide cooling shade if you train climbing vines to grow within the branch framework. You'll need 3-inch-diameter branches to create a sturdy foundation, 2-inch-diameter branches to finish the basic framework and smaller branches to decorate the arbor frame.

Assembling the Sides

  1. Strip any secondary branches from four 3-inch-diameter, 7-foot-long branches, leaving four straight poles. You can cut larger branches with lopping shears, clip off branches less than 1 inch in diameter with bypass pruners, or use a pocket knife to strip very small branches from the main branch.

  2. Lay two of the 7-foot branches on a flat work surface, spaced 4 feet apart from outside edge to outside edge. Measure the distance at the top, bottom and middle of the branches to ensure even spacing throughout.

  3. Measure the space between the two posts and cut two 2-inch-diameter branches to this length. The distance should be about 3 1/2 feet, but because branch size may vary slightly, you must measure the actual distance to ensure a good fit.

  4. Place one of the 2-inch-diameter branches between the 3-inch-diameter posts, positioned 12 inches from the bottom of the posts. Position the second 2-inch branch about 3 1/2 feet above and parallel to the lower branch to form a square. Screw these branches in place with 4-inch wood screws inserted at an angle; use two screws for each intersecting point on the branches.

  5. Cut 1- to 2-inch diameter branches to fit inside the square. Place them vertically with 4 inches between each branch. Screw the vertical pieces to the horizontal branches with 3-inch wood screws.

  6. Make a second identical structure for the other side of the branch arbor. Choose branches that are as close to the same size as possible so the arbor is balanced.

Assembling the Top

  1. Cut eight 2-inch-diameter branches to 4-foot lengths for the top piece of the arbor.

  2. Lay four 2-inch-diameter, 4-foot-long branches on a flat surface to form a square. Connect the four sides with 4-inch wood screws, using at least two screws at each intersection.

  3. Form a pyramid on top of the square with the remaining four branch pieces. Extend each piece from one corner of the square and lean them so they meet in the center of the square. Screw these branches to the branches in the square base and at the tip of the pyramid; recruit a helper and work with the branches until you complete the pyramid.

  4. Fill in the open spaces -- four equilateral triangles -- in the pyramid top with 1-inch diameter or smaller branch pieces in a pattern of your choice. You can arrange straight branches in a sunburst pattern, lay branches horizontally, or weave twisting, contorted branches to lend a more whimsical appearance to the arbor.

Assembling the Structure

  1. Lay the pyramid top on its side on flat ground, then hold one of the arbor sides to line up with the top. Secure the side poles to the square top with 4-inch wood screws. Repeat with the other side of the arbor.

  2. Cut eight 12-inch cross braces from 2-inch diameter branches and screw them in place diagonally in each corner where a vertical post meets the arbor top.

  3. Stand the structure upright and rock it gently to determine its steadiness. If more support is needed, screw 2-inch-diameter branches in an X pattern within the square base of the arbor top.

  4. Fill in the empty spaces on the arbor sides with additional 1-inch branches, if desired; you added vertical branches to the lower 3 1/2 feet of the arbor, but the sides remain open above the 2-inch-diameter horizontal branches. You can leave the space empty so the horizontal branches look like hand rails, but additional branches are needed if you plan to train vines on the structure.

  5. Dig four 10-inch deep, 4-by-4-inch post holes, spaced 4 feet apart to form a square. Add 4 inches of crushed rock to the holes and pack it tightly with the flat end of a digging bar to improve drainage away from the posts. Set the arbor posts in the post holes and fill in the holes with soil.


  • Mother Earth News: Make Simple, Beautiful Garden Fences and Trellises
  • Leslie Land: The DIY Garden Arch; Easy, Organic and (Almost) Free
  • Sunset: Make a Rustic Trellis


  • You can use dry wood or green wood to build this arbor, but dry wood is prone to cracking when you insert screws. You can prevent cracking by drilling pilot holes in the branches before driving the screws into place; use a drill bit one size smaller than the diameter of the screws.

Writer Bio

A former cake decorator and competitive horticulturist, Amelia Allonsy is most at home in the kitchen or with her hands in the dirt. She received her Bachelor's degree from West Virginia University. Her work has been published in the San Francisco Chronicle and on other websites.

How to Make Garden Arches Out of Tree Branches | Home Guides

By Amelia Allonsy

Instead of dragging your garden pruning refuse to the curb on trash night, you can use green tree branches to make an arched arbor. Traditionally, willow branches work best for arches because they bend so easily, but most tree branches have some flexibility if you use green branches instead of hardened, dead branches. The sides of the arbor must be sturdy, so you'll need long branch poles about 8 to 10 feet long, with about 6 feet of sturdy, rigid support that taper into 2 to 4 feet of flexible ends that will form the arch.

  1. Trim any secondary branches from the main branches until each branch is a single branch pole. Choose branches that are one-half to 2 inches in diameter and as straight as possible. Use pruning tools or a simple pocketknife to strip the branches.

  2. Bundle several of the branch poles together into a 4-by-4-inch bunch and secure with heavy wire, such as 16-gauge galvanized wire, wrapped around the poles at the bottom and every 12 inches up to about 6 feet along the length of the poles.

  3. Make three more 4-by-4-inch bundles of the branch poles and secure them with wire. If you have difficulty keeping the bundles together with wire, you can wrap the branches individually to the bundle or use 1-inch ring shank nails and a hammer to nail the individual sticks together until you form a bundle.

  4. Lay two of the branch bundles on a flat work surface and space them about 2 feet apart or the desired depth for the arbor.

  5. Lay 1-inch diameter branch pieces horizontally across the two bundles and nail them to the bundles with 1 1/2-inch ring shank nails or wire. Alternatively, bundle several narrower branches together with wire to make a single 1-inch diameter unit. Space the branch pieces 8 to 12 inches apart in a ladder pattern up to the 6-foot marks made by the wires on each. Repeat with the remaining two branch pole bundles.

  6. Stand the two pieces upright and spaced about 4 feet apart; hold a level against the sides to check for plumb and adjust as needed. Enlist two friends to help you with this part of the project so the sides of the arbor stay in position.

  7. Bend the ends of the branches in both of the front bundles into an arch so they meet the branch ends from the opposite side. Wrap the end of one branch around a branch end on the opposite side and secure the ends together with wire. Repeat with the remaining branches in the bundle. Form the arch with the branches in the back bundles and secure with wire.

  8. Wrap last year's grapevines or a similar natural rope around the bundle of branches in the front and back arch to provide additional support holding the branches together and adding a natural touch to the finished arch.

  9. Attach additional 1-inch branch pieces or bundles horizontally to connect the front arch with the back arch, following the same pattern as for the sides of the arbor.

  10. Plant a climbing vine plant on each side of the arbor, at the base of the trellises made by the branches on the arbor sides. Train the vines to weave in and out of the branches, up the sides and onto the arch.


  • Mother Earth News: Make Simple, Beautiful Garden Fences and Trellises
  • Sunset: Make a Rustic Trellis
  • Leslie Land: The DIY Garden Arch; Easy, Organic and (Almost) Free


  • If your trellis requires extra stability, drive metal T-posts in the ground beside each arbor leg and connect the bundled legs to the T-posts with wire. Paint the T-post to blend in with the arbor or focus the climbing plants to grow around and conceal the metal post.

Writer Bio

A former cake decorator and competitive horticulturist, Amelia Allonsy is most at home in the kitchen or with her hands in the dirt. She received her Bachelor's degree from West Virginia University. Her work has been published in the San Francisco Chronicle and on other websites.

Do-it-yourself wicker gazebo: all stages of work

Summer houses, gazebos, sheds and greenhouses built from ecological materials rarely go unnoticed. They differ in original appearance, practicality and functionality. In addition, the site owner with minimal experience in construction can handle the work of building a building. To begin with, he should try his hand at building a gazebo from a vine with his own hands, and only then proceed to the implementation of more complex projects. The minimum costs associated with the purchase of vines explain the popularity of wicker arbors, and the ease of working with this natural building material allows you to complete all stages of construction in the shortest possible time.


  • List of tools and materials for the construction of a wicker gazebo
  • The first stage of work - sorting the vines, marking the site, building the foundation
  • The subtleties of weaving
  • The choice of materials for the floor
  • Roof construction for wicker arbors
  • Video: gazebo from branches

List of tools and materials for the construction of a wicker gazebo

The main raw material for this project is vine. It must be harvested in sufficient quantities from flexible woods. A gazebo made of willow, hazel, bird cherry and other branches will look great in the country. In addition, the master needs to have a number of tools at hand. These are:

- plumb;
- building level;
- measuring tape;
- hacksaw;
- shovel;
- pliers;
- wire, etc.

back to contents ↑

The first stage of work - vine sorting, site marking, foundation construction Therefore, the first step is to take care of sorting the building material. After the branches are cut, the leaves are removed from them. The bark should remain intact, as the "bare" branches will quickly lose their color and look unattractive.

Then you need to decide on the size and shape of the gazebo in order to mark the territory. Small gazebos are suitable for two or three people, while larger buildings can be used to organize various events with a large number of guests. When the plan of the gazebo is ready, you need to use the pegs and rope to outline the location of the gazebo on the site.

The next stage is the construction of the foundation of the future building. Since the gazebo is light in weight, the construction of a solid concrete foundation is not mandatory. It is enough for summer residents with the help of a shovel to remove the top layer of soil from the territory where the gazebo will stand in the future, level the ground in a cleared place and tamp it well.

After that proceed to the installation of supports. Their role can be played by strong wooden beams, with the same length and thickness, as well as metal pipes or concrete poles. The supports are dug into the ground and then concreted. This stage of work must be carried out responsibly, because the strength and stability of the finished gazebo from the branches depends on the quality of the installation of the supports.

back to contents ↑

Details of weaving

The process of weaving is considered to be the most creative stage of work. If the gazebo is made according to the "basket principle", then weaving consists of the following steps:

1. Use a construction stapler, nails or wire to secure the ends of the vine to the lowest post.
2. Further, the weaving scheme assumes that each rod will be threaded between the posts. You need to thread the vine in a checkerboard pattern to achieve a beautiful texture of a wicker surface.
3. If the rod ends between the posts, it is lengthened by tying a new branch with wire.
4. After the circle of weaving is completed, the ends of the vine are tied to the last post in the row.
5. Then the cycle repeats.
6. For greater rigidity of the weave between the main supports, auxiliary posts of wood, metal or plastic can be used.

Weaving the walls of the arbor

It is worth noting that this method is simple and fast. Even beginners can master it. But the owners of summer cottages with extensive experience can weave a vine with “strings” or according to the principle of pigtails. Schemes of such weaving can be easily found on the Internet.

back to content ↑

Selection of materials for the floor

The floor in the gazebo must be strong and durable. Based on these requirements, site owners select the type of flooring. Good reviews have floors made of the following materials:

- wood;
- stone;
- concrete;
- tiles, etc.

Roof construction for wicker arbors

Arbor from branches, in addition to performing decorative functions, should protect households from precipitation, heat and wind. Therefore, due attention must be paid to the roof. Its format can be different - at the request of the owner, one of the following roof options can be chosen:

- single slope;
- gable;
- domed;
- conical;
- rounded.

Having chosen the shape of the roof, you need to decide on the roofing material. Ideally, it should be strong but light in weight. So, polycarbonate, sheet metal, tied into neat bundles of reeds or straw, can be used in the work. Roofing material is attached to the roof frame of wooden beams. You can assemble the frame on the floor, and then place it on the gazebo.

back to the table of contents ↑

Video: arbor made of branches

Once the construction work is completed, the landowner can start decorating. Wicker arbors look spectacular in the garden, surrounded by greenery of garden vines, conifers and the bright color of plants from flower beds. Do not forget about the choice of furniture that suits the style - wicker tables and chairs, functional cabinets and stands for kitchen utensils.

How to make a gazebo out of tree trunks

When there is not enough space for all kinds of buildings in the country house and you want to plant trees and shrubs on the territory to the maximum, you can combine practicality and aesthetics by creating a large gazebo from living trees.

Outside, it will resemble a green lush wigwam, and inside, the owners will be able to arrange moments of relaxation and rest in the shade of rustling leaves. In such a building, it is easy to breathe, there is no view for curious neighbors and passers-by. Over the years, a living gazebo will become a special highlight of your summer cottage, as all the branches will intertwine into one dense tent, which attracts with leafy cover in summer and with an amazing tree frame in winter. If you are ready for a long landscape experiment, we will understand the intricacies of creating such a gazebo from scratch.


  • 1 Selecting the right trees for this building
  • 2 Step by step construction technology
  • 3 Stage #1 - laying out the site
  • 4 Stage #2 - planting trees 5 Stage # 9011
  • 6 Stage #4 - Forming the frame of the gazebo
  • 7 Stage #5 - Creating a green roof
  • 8 Additional wall decoration
  • 9 Specific features of the living gazebo
  • 10 Selection of plants for the implementation of the project
  • 11 Square breakdown for the construction of a gazebo from snags
  • 12 Trees planting technology
  • 13 The arrangement of the internal space
  • 14 subtleties of the structure of the frame
  • 15 Creation of the “Living” roof 9000
  • 16 Decoration help of green spaces and furniture
  • 17 Preparation of materials, tools
  • 18 Choosing a place. Project preparation
  • 19 From foundation to roof. Start of construction.
  • 20 Competent installation of the roof
  • 21 The final stage. Interesting decor tricks
  • 22 How can you decorate the gazebo inside?

The right choice of trees for such a structure

A "living" gazebo differs from ordinary wooden or brick ones in that it does not have walls, pillars and a roof made of building materials.

All these functions are performed by trees. The trunks serve as supports, the branches serve as a frame, and the leaves fill all the voids of the frame, like walls and a roof. After 6-7 years, even rain will not be able to break through a thick hat.

Trees (or tall shrubs) are selected of the same variety so that the gazebo looks harmonious. At the same time, it is determined in advance what height the “living” structure should be in adult form.

If 2.5-3 meters is enough, then irgu, willow or mountain ash are planted. They have high flexibility at a young age and easily take the desired shape. Such trees are planted in increments of 70-80 cm.0003

Poplars, maples, birches, lindens are suitable for a higher arbor. They are recommended to be planted every meter, so that in adulthood the trees do not crowd out each other due to lack of nutrition.

All of the listed plants grow dense foliage only in good light, so it is better to choose a place open on all sides for the gazebo. True, it is still not worth planting in drafts, otherwise a considerable part of the branches, especially young ones, can deteriorate from the winter winds. Try to have some building or at least a fence on the side where the wind most often blows in your area, three meters from the future gazebo.

Spruces do well in such plantings, which, unlike hardwoods, develop normally in partial shade. True, inside a spruce arbor it will be darker than in a birch or maple one, but the aroma of useful phytoncides that kill microbes will constantly hang in the air.

Step by Step Construction Technique

Stage #1 - Site Layout

As with any building, the first step is to mark it up.

In order for the root system of trees to develop normally, there must be enough space inside the green room. The ideal option is 3x3 meters. More is possible, less is undesirable due to the fact that you often have to prune protruding young shoots inside the gazebo so that they do not interfere with rest.

If you want a round shape, then mark the diameter of the inner space of 6-7 meters.

Some owners using high pruning of skeletal branches create open gazebos in which there are no walls, but only a green roof. Try to pick up all the trees with the same trunk height so that they develop evenly. Landing is usual - in early spring, before the start of sap flow.

Between the seedlings, posts are buried in the ground, which for the first time will become a support for the entire structure, until the tree trunks grow to the desired height and become stronger. All pillars are intertwined with wire, to which branches will be attached to form a dense frame.

We immediately fix the seedlings to the frame so that they grow in the right direction and do not bend. You can tie it with plastic clips, which are in gardening stores, or with a rope. Do not use wire, as it can strongly dig into the fabric of the tree and lead to cancer.

In this state, you leave the living frame until the next spring, allowing the seedlings to take root in a new place and get stronger.

When using shrubs, it is impossible to achieve a thick trunk, so they are planted in several pieces (2-3), braiding around the supporting pillars

Stage # 3 - arranging the internal space

While the trees get stronger and take root, you can equip the gazebo inside. Furniture and other accessories will appear over time, and the first thing they create is the floor. There are several options here:

    If the pergola will be solid, covered foliage from the ground to the top of the roof, and the entrance will be the only niche for sunlight to enter, then it is best to choose tiles or paving stones. It is not afraid of moisture, it allows water and oxygen to enter the ground, which means that the nutrition of the roots will not be disturbed. For arbors, whose deciduous walls will start from half a meter high and above, lawn grass or wooden chocks are suitable. There is enough light in such a structure, the gazebo is well ventilated, so the grass floor will not suffer from darkness, and the wooden floor from moisture.

It's good to think about the lighting at the initial stage. If you use the gazebo in the evenings, you will have to hang a lamp.

So, it is necessary to conduct electricity. And while the seedlings are still small, and the site is not equipped, dig a groove and lay an electric cable. Over time, when the tree trunks grow, stretch the cable up to the ceiling and hang the lamp.

Some owners, instead of one central lamp, hang small ones along the perimeter of the walls. Then the outside gives the impression that the gazebo is filled with fabulous radiance and glows in the dark.

For a living gazebo, a stone floor is also suitable, which allows moisture to pass through well, only a layer of sand must be poured under it. If you want to make the gazebo as closed from prying eyes as possible, then pruning seedlings is carried out as follows:

    Check where the top of the seedling is directed. If it curves and does not grow vertically upwards, tie it to the frame, fixing it in the right direction. All skeletal branches (the thickest ones coming from the trunk) should be cut in half to stimulate the growth of lateral, thinner shoots. The lowest branches are fixed to the wire strictly horizontally. In the middle of summer, the crown is cut by 10-15 cm.

If you want to leave the lower part of the arbor clear of greenery, consisting only of bare trunks, then cut all the skeletal branches to the trunk, leaving no stumps, to the height you need. Most often, a gap of 80-100 cm is left below.

You should only have a trunk left below, without a single branch. At the same time, each cut point is covered with garden pitch so that the tree does not get sick. The rest of the steps are the same as in the instructions above: align the crown, tie the branches horizontally, etc.

Prune the lower skeletal branches only lightly to give a boost to dormant lateral shoots, and cut the rest by about half

No more pruning this year. The following spring, they continue to mold the frame:

    Choose from the young upper branches the one that will become the new crown, and fix it strictly vertically. We cut the new skeletal branches that have appeared by half. Over last year's lower branches, tied horizontally, we find another pair of young skeletal branches and fix to the wire in the same way as last year (horizontally). We cut off the crown again (in July).

In this way we form the walls of the gazebo until it reaches the height we need. At the same time, every year we cut off all protruding young branches or braid them between skeletal ones so that they do not violate the integrity of the structure. You can do this until July.

Stage #5 - Making the Green Roof

When the trunks are strong and grown to the desired height, we begin to form the roof.

To do this, all the upper crown shoots must be braided, tied with a rope over the edge and bent to the center of the future gazebo roof. The second edge of the rope is tied to the top of the support post on the opposite wall of the gazebo, or the top of the tree opposite is pulled together with this end. In any case, the rope must be taut so that the branches cannot unbend, but remain in the position that they were given.

Braid the tops of your head so that over time, when the branches become woody, you will have a reliable frame above your head. If you simply tie the branches, then after removing the ropes they will begin to grow in different directions.

Once the trunks and skeletal branches that form the walls and roof have become woody, the entire wire frame can be removed and the supporting posts removed. From now on, you only have to cut the thin branches that stand out from the crowd.

Additional wall decoration

To add foliage to the arbor from below (where there are no skeletal branches), plant bushes that respond well to haircuts (spireas, boxwoods, barberries, etc.) in place of the supporting pillars. When they grow to the level of the lower branch, cut off the top and trim the side shoots to the desired shape.

Creeping annuals can also be used as an additional decoration of the gazebo, which bloom beautifully and will bring accents to the green foliage tent

You can plant flowering lianas instead of shrubs (Parthenocissus, clematis, etc.), but try to choose plants that grow no more than 2 meters so that they do not interrupt the main foliage background. At the same time, remember that you will have to feed them more often, since the living arbor will take the main food from the ground.

Such structures are not uncommon in Europe, but in our country pavilions made of living trees are still exotic. So if you want to surprise your friends and acquaintances with your country landscape, try growing this masterpiece with your own hands.

    Author: VarvaryshkaPrint

If you are a happy owner of a large shady garden and dream of spending time in it, enjoying peace and quiet surrounded by nature, then it's time to think about building a gazebo. It can be built from old snags and tree trunks - natural materials that harmoniously fit into the garden landscape and do not violate its natural beauty.

back to contents ↑

Specific features of the living arbor

With a creative approach to the development of the project, a driftwood gazebo can become a favorite place for all household members in the garden. In its design, natural beauty will be combined with coziness and comfort, so inside the gazebo you can receive guests, read your favorite books and meet every new day with a cup of aromatic coffee.

The design of the building provides for maximum openness and airiness.

Trees and snags will perform the functions of the frame, roof beams and even walls in the gazebo. Having planted them on the site and weaving them together, the owners will have a chance to watch every year how the “living” hut in the garden changes its appearance, acquiring new forms. A gazebo made of trees will look beautiful in winter and summer, so you can safely build it next to the house, using tree trunks as supports, and their branches and leaves as a frame and roof.

It is advisable to choose an open and well-lit place for the gazebo. In shaded areas, plants will develop slowly and gain vegetative mass poorly, which is highly undesirable when building a living gazebo.

back to contents ↑

Selection of plants for the project

Garden centers sell a wide range of plants and shrubs that are suitable for living arbors. But before giving preference to a particular plant, you need to decide on the type and height of the structure.

So, low neat arbors up to three meters high can be made on the basis of flexible plants with a dense crown. These are irga, willow, mountain ash and other crops that are easy to shape and can be planted at a short distance from each other (with an interval of about 80 cm). For them, it will be necessary to install tapestries, which at first will take over the functions of the frame of the future structure.

Video: how to build a "live gazebo"

If the area allows, you can build a high solid gazebo from birch, linden, maple or poplar.

These tall trees form a beautiful dense crown already a few years after planting and do not require the use of additional supports. They need to be planted 1.5-2 meters apart. Planting too closely will cause plants to be deficient in nutrients and space, and may not develop properly.

Plant holes should be dug deep enough. If necessary, compost, humus and other fertilizers are added to them, which will make up for the deficiency of organic matter in the soil. Watering and processing of plants is carried out in accordance with the agricultural technology of the selected crop.

back to contents ↑

Breakdown of the area for the construction of a gazebo from snags

Do-it-yourself construction of a gazebo from tree trunks begins with the preparation of the site.

The soil on it must be well leveled and compacted. The shape of the gazebo can be round, rectangular or square, it is chosen in accordance with personal preferences and available free space on the site. The area of ​​the gazebo should be large enough so that the planted trees can form a normal root system and crown.

Having decided on the shape, size and plants used in the work, the site owner must mark out the area and make holes in which trees will be planted later. For marking, you can use the most primitive tools available in everyday life for every private developer. This is a measuring tape, pegs and rope.

back to contents ↑

Tree planting technology

It is most advantageous to use seedlings with the same stem height, which will develop harmoniously. They need to be planted in the spring before the start of sap flow, and in the fall - after it stops. Estimated planting dates are March-April and September-October, respectively.

Between the planted seedlings, posts are installed, which at first will play the role of a frame. Trees are tied to them with special clamps. They will help to give the living frame the desired shape and prevent distortion and deformation of tree trunks in the process of their growth.

The formed framework is left for a while. This is necessary so that the trees get stronger and take the shape necessary for the construction of the gazebo. Then the supporting pillars are removed and proceed to the arrangement of the interior of the gazebo.

back to contents ↑

Arrangement of internal space

The slow growth of trees, which affects the timing of the construction of the arbor in a not the most profitable way, gives the owners of the cottage some advantages. Without haste, they can decorate the interior of the gazebo, devoting time to accessories, decor and furniture.

In between the arrangement of the frame, the owners can do the floor. It can be built in several ways:

- a floor made of natural stone, tiles or paving stones, which must be paved on a mound of sand; - a floor of lawn grass;

- wooden flooring.

You should also consider in advance the principle of lighting in the gazebo. It can be realized by using a chandelier or small wall lights. To do this, you will need to run an electric cable to the gazebo and fix it on supports in compliance with safety rules.

Lighting in the gazebo from "live" trees

Next to the gazebo, you can equip a barbecue area - install a barbecue on it and equip a place to store firewood. It is not recommended to cook food inside the gazebo, as living trees do not tolerate high temperatures well and can be damaged by fire.

We advise you to read the article on how to build a summer kitchen with a gazebo.

back to contents ↑

Subtleties of frame construction

Year after year, the summer resident must allocate time to improve the frame of the gazebo from living trees. It is best to do this in the spring, when the buds have not yet begun to swell on the trees. The subtleties of building an ideal frame are given below in the form of a list:

- first of all, the direction of growth of the tree is checked, and if necessary, the top of the seedling is fixed on the frame with a rope; - then the skeletal branches are pruned, the purpose of which is to stimulate the growth of lateral shoots to form a dense and uniform crown on seedlings;

- fixation of the lower branches in the horizontal direction.

In summer, some manipulations will also be required.

In particular, it will be necessary to cut tree branches by 10-15 cm, monitor the watering of plants and carry out pest and disease control in time. In the spring of next year, the actions from this section will need to be repeated, but now new skeletal branches located above will be fixed in the horizontal direction. Thus, the owner of the site will be able to form a neat and durable "living" frame from seedlings planted with his own hands.

back to contents ↑

Creation of a "living" roof

Work on the formation of the roof is postponed until the trees get stronger and form a lush crown, with which the arbor of tree trunks will be protected from precipitation and solar heat. This usually takes several years. Next, the owner of the site needs to do the following manipulations:

1. Formation of the roof frame At this stage, the upper branches of the trees are intertwined, tied with ropes or wire, and then bent to the center of the future gazebo.2. Fastening the frame The free ends of the ropes are tightly tied around the trees that act as supports.

3. Removing the wire frame and caring for the "live" roof

Forming the roof frame for the gazebo from living trees

It also takes time for the trunks and skeletal branches to stiffen, so it is not necessary to remove the wire frame immediately.

After removing it, a sufficiently strong and dense roof should form over the gazebo. Caring for it consists in seasonal pruning of branches that are "knocked out" from the total mass. It is best to remove them in early spring - before the start of sap flow, using secateurs or scissors in the work.

back to contents ↑

Decorating the building with green spaces and furniture

When the main work is completed, you can think about decorating the gazebo.

In this matter, curb plants will come to the aid of summer residents, with the help of which you can build a hedge around the gazebo. These are privet, forsythia, jasmine and other shrubs that do not have a large height and keep their shape well after cutting with a trimmer or garden shears. The hedge around the gazebo will look especially impressive in the first few years, when the crown on the trees used as a frame does not reach high thickening.

Planting vines - clematis, girlish grapes or campsis - will help to achieve an atmosphere of comfort inside the gazebo. The foliage of these plants will create a shadow inside the building, and it will be comfortable to be in the gazebo even on hot days. Around the gazebo it is worth breaking flower beds, building a rockery or a small alpine hill.

Furniture in the gazebo can be sustained in an eco-style, involving the use of natural materials with minimal mechanical processing. Homemade tables and chairs made of wood are suitable, which can be treated with an antiseptic and varnished to extend the life of the outdoors.

The finished gazebo will be a spectacular addition to the landscape of the site and will delight the eyes of households and their friends with its original look.

Both benches and even an outdoor fireplace are available from specialist shops. But it is much more pleasant to ennoble the site on your own. Start with a simple but essential structure - a wooden gazebo.

Your work and efforts will be highly appreciated by relatives and friends. For many years, gazebos delight with their appearance, give a pleasant shade on a hot day. And how nice it is to sit with relatives in the fresh air with a cup of tea or even a barbecue.

To make the outer design of the pavilion also arouse admiration, we advise you to make it from tree trunks. This guarantees 100% exclusivity of the design and unsurpassed appearance. We will tell you:

    What materials a living gazebo is built from. What needs to be done at the preparatory stage. How the foundation, roof and walls are built. What to look for at the final stage. How to decorate a gazebo from snags.

Preparation of materials, tools

To build a gazebo from crooked trunks with your own hands, stock up on suitable materials, buy the missing tools in the store. The base list looks like this:

Materials needed:

    Small gravel. Sand. Paving slabs and bricks. At least four thick trunks. Timber, boards. Slate, tiles for the roof. It is also advisable to stock up on dry reeds. Linen tow and wire. Additional materials that are useful for wood processing. This is stain and yacht varnish.

Few tools required. Most likely, you already have them:

    Nails, screws and hammer. Shovel, trowel. Planer, strong ax. Brush.

After the necessary materials are ready, we proceed to the initial stage of construction.

Choosing a place. Preparation of the project

On many Internet resources, as well as in printed publications, there are photos of pretty wooden gazebos. An arbor made of snags and crooked tree trunks almost immediately catches the eye.

When choosing a place for installation, be guided by your own taste and the general style of the territory. You can make an extension to the wall or install it in the corner of the territory. Since the tree trunk gazebo is often left open, it will be very difficult to glaze it.

How to arrange a gazebo on the site

The ideal location is reduced to the following principles:

    Groundwater is deep. There is always shade during the day. In the evening, a large amount of sunlight enters the gazebo.

When building a wooden structure around a fireplace/stove, take care of fire safety in advance.

To do this, treat the barrels with fire-retardant impregnation to prevent sparks from entering. In addition, each wooden part is coated with a protective compound. This will avoid the appearance of fungi, premature decay.

Inspect the blanks for the future gazebo, draw a sketch. It all depends on how the elements look, what shape and length they have. All old trunks are cut with reference to the drawing.

Which type of wood to choose and whether to remove the bark depends on the author's imagination. Strong, but not too massive trunks of mountain ash, spruce, birch with the bark removed will look very nice. In this case, the surface is processed and varnished.

From foundation to roof. Start of construction.

So, the plan is drawn, the optimal place for construction is also chosen, the materials are ready. Time to get to work!

The planned area is marked with threads and pegs. After the marking, soil is dug for the foundation. A depth of 20 centimeters will be enough.

How to fill the empty space? Sand is best. Tiles are laid on top.

Tiles interspersed with wooden cuts will look very impressive. The gaps can be covered with fine gravel. Also, pegs with a pin can be installed in the places where trunks made of birch or other material are placed. Subsequently, poles are put on them.

The solution will also be successful in the case when the arbor of trunks is placed on pins fixed in brick posts. In the Scandinavian countries, the foundation issue is solved elementarily. Large pebbles are placed under the birch trunks. For additional fixation, we recommend using a timber strap.

The truss system is used for general reinforcement of the structure. Use the building level to make the structure perfectly flat, and place the saw cuts on top in the same plane. Otherwise, the gazebo may tilt, and it will be difficult to install the roof. By the way, about the supporting pillars.

When they are about the same thickness, relatively straight, installation problems will not arise even for beginners. Most often, such pillars are made of spruces and pines. In the case of a curved shape of the trunks, construction work must be carried out as carefully as possible.

Scheme of the columnar foundation for the gazebo

Competent installation of the roof

What type of truss system to choose? It can be open/closed. As for the coating, when choosing it, you should focus on personal preferences, as well as the general style.

Tiles, slate tiles, even slate are used as roof coverings. A roof made of boards will look no less impressive. The coating of reeds will also add its zest.

It is worth preparing it in advance. The plant is mowed and then folded into sheaves. After that, dry reeds are divided into bundles of the same length and thickness, laid on the roof in layers.

How to fix the reeds on the roof? It is best to use wire for these purposes.

Bundles are stacked in such a way that each subsequent layer goes beyond the previous one. A bundle of reeds is used as decoration for the dome. And when the roof is gable, a wooden skate will do.

The final stage. Interesting decoration techniques

Thick branches can be attached to the trunks, which serve as decorative jibs. The joints are wrapped with a linen cord. This gives the design of the birch structure an aesthetic appearance.

Variants of arbors made of tree trunks

At the final stage, you can pay attention to the decor.

Run the decorative planer blades over logged trunks to achieve the effect of aged wood. To protect against moisture and other vagaries of nature, it is covered with stain and yacht varnish - preferably in 2-3 layers. Stain is good because it will allow you to give the tree the desired shade.

When the main work is completed, the space is cleared of chips, wood scraps, varnished. The finishing touches will help turn the gazebo into an exceptional place to relax - cozy and original.

How can I decorate the gazebo inside?

We suggest using our recommendations for arranging a gazebo from trunks inside:

Arbor furniture options

A large stump can be used as a table. Smaller stumps will replace your chairs. Alternatively, you can simply visit a specialized store and buy comfortable wooden furniture. We lay even boards on the floor. Which lamp to choose for the gazebo?

It makes sense to show a little imagination here. For example, hang a small snag at the top and install an electrical appliance inside. A hearth or barbecue will not be superfluous either. How to decorate the entrance in a stylish and unusual way? Use decorative forging railings. Flowerpots are hung on crooked trunks.

Crafts made of wood and other natural materials will help emphasize curvature and original design. The ceiling is filled with paintings and other interesting drawings. Animal figurines are placed along the perimeter of the roof. We also suggest considering the option of carved shelves.

In the future, you can put various knick-knacks, fruits and bouquets of flowers on them. Additionally, the walls can be decorated with bushes that cut well. Barberry, spirea and boxwood are best suited for these purposes.

Learn more