How to care for citrus trees in southern california


Tips & Tricks For Growing Citrus Trees In O.C. – Roger's Gardens

Caring for Citrus Trees

 

Citrus trees love our climate—this is Orange County, after all! Just about any variety of citrus tree, from sweet oranges to ultra-tart limes, can grace your landscape with beautiful scenery, sensational scents, and mouthwatering flavors. If you’re eager to grow your own citrus, this guide is all about learning how to care for these magnificent trees here in California!

Choosing the Right Citrus Tree

Depending on where in Southern California you live, some citrus trees will perform better on your property than others. For example, grapefruits, blood oranges, and Washington navel oranges perform better in hot inland landscapes while limes, lemons, and kumquats thrive along the coast. Watch below as David Rizzo explains this in more detail, along with his top-recommended citrus varieties.

How to Care for Citrus Trees in


California Landscapes
Planting

Citrus trees are gluttons for sunlight and nutrients! Plant your citrus tree in a location with 6-8 hours of direct sun exposure every day. To plant, dig a hole twice as wide and six inches deeper than your tree’s root ball, then backfill under and around the root ball with a mixture of 50% Malibu Compost and 50% native soil, ensuring the root ball ends up sitting level with the soil line. It’s very important that the mixture drains well, so if your native soil contains heavy clay, be sure to blend the compost in well to break up large clumps.

Watering

At the time of planting, form a basin around the tree that diverts water toward the roots and away from the trunk. Water your newly-planted citrus tree deeply and thoroughly by filling the basin, allowing it to drain, and filling it again until no bubbles are arising from the soil.. After this initial watering, you’ll want to allow the soil to dry out slightly before watering again. Proper watering frequency is one of the trickiest parts of learning how to care for citrus trees; in the California heat, it can be difficult to know how dry is too dry. In general, deep watering once or twice per week is ideal. Avoid using spray heads that can wet the trunk, which can invite disease, and instead place the hose directly on the soil and allow water to soak in slowly.

Fertilizing

Citrus trees are heavy feeders and should be fertilized monthly from February to September. Fertilize citrus trees with a specially-formulated organic fertilizer blend that contains trace micronutrients like iron, zinc, and magnesium, such as Down to Earth Citrus Mix Fertilizer. Follow the instructions on the packaging for appropriate application instructions.

Protecting Your Citrus Tree

Pests, diseases, and even sun exposure can threaten your tree’s health. To keep your tree well-protected:

  • Prune away dead, dying, or diseased foliage as needed to prevent disease from spreading.
  • Inspect regularly for signs of insects, such as mealybugs, scale, and whitefly. Treat as-needed with a safe, natural pesticide like neem oil or insecticidal soap.
  • Guard your citrus tree against ants by applying Tanglefoot around the trunk to prevent them from reaching the canopy.
  • Prune citrus branches in the winter to prevent branches from touching the ground (an open invitation for insects!) and promote airflow through the canopy. If necessary, some light pruning can be done during the growing season, but only as necessary. Avoid over-pruning, as direct sun exposure can burn the trunk.
Harvesting

In June, it’s typical for citrus trees to drop quite a bit of young fruit. This is the tree’s way of choosing which fruits to continue to develop, as the tree doesn’t generally have enough resources to ripen them all. Different citrus varieties will ripen at various times throughout the year, but don’t begin harvesting unless you’ve had a taste! Citrus fruits often look riper than they are, and only a taste-test will reveal whether the sugars have sufficiently developed. Once you’re satisfied with the flavor of a few sample fruits plucked from different areas of the tree, you can grab your baskets and start picking! Most citrus fruits store very well on the tree, sometimes for months, making them very popular to grow at home.

How to Care for Citrus Trees in Containers

Here in California, we can also keep several dwarf and semi-dwarf citrus varieties, like Meyer lemons, in containers rather than growing them in the ground—but container growing does require some different know-how if you’re hoping for a great harvest!

If you plan to plant your citrus in a container, plant your new tree in a large container filled with our Cactus Mix. This quick-draining blend is nutrient-rich and perfectly suited for your tree straight out of the bag.

Watch as Kathleen offers some more advice for delicious container-grown citrus.

For more growing tips, and to browse our full collection of citrus and other fruit trees, visit our garden center in Newport Beach. We’re confident your new citrus tree will quickly become a beloved focal point in your landscape, and a frequent source of inspiration for your table!

Shop all citrus trees now online or visit us in-store for a larger selection!

Guide to Growing Citrus in Southern California

If live in a house in Southern California there is about a 50% chance you already own at least one citrus tree. Here is everything you need to know to get the most out of that tree!

Citrus are foreign plants, originating almost exclusively in China. Yet oranges, lemons, limes, grapefruit, tangerines, lowquats and all of the other citrus fruits are ubiquitous in California. Those of us who live beneath the San Gabriel or San Bernardino mountains are probably very familiar with the history of orange and lemon groves that once dominated the landscape.

There is a very serious problem with growing citrus in Southern California right now, especially in the Los Angeles area. So I recommend tackling the disease section first, especially if you are considering adding citrus to your garden.

That said, you may have existing fruit trees in your yard that you are unsure how to care for. Are you getting poor fruiting? Sour oranges, or bitter lemons? Do the leaves look oddly speckled, curled, or otherwise unhealthy? Read on.

HLB, RCB Disease and Quarantine

If you have tried to buy citrus plants online, you may have noticed warning that they would not ship to California, yet you can go to a local nursery and pick one up easily. Why is that?

The answer is the Asian Citrus Psyllid bug, which carries a bacterial disease called Huanglongbing (HLB), that is potentially very devastating to California's citrus trees. Of course, citrus isn't just important to California because people grow them on their homes. Citrus is an important crop grown throughout the Central Valley and other farmland. HLB risks destroying a $7 billion economy in California.

The main way that HLB spreads is by transporting plants that are already infected with ACP. That is why nursery stock is being so tightly regulated. Local nurseries are allowed to sell citrus plants, but they are licensed and required to have the knowledge to recognize HLB infestations so that they do not perpetuate the spread of the disease.

Unfortunately, HLB doesn't just affect citrus plants, but all plants in the Rue family (Rutaceae). This includes Sichuan Pepper trees, and a tree that is particularly important to my family, the curry tree (Murraya koenigii).

How do you recognize HLB? You won't find the Asian Citrus Psyllid insects on your tree, they are far too tiny. What you will see is evidence of HLB, the bacterial disease that kills the trees.

The disease starts by yellowing the veins of leaves and spreads over time. Many diseases and nutrient deficiencies can cause tree leaves to yellow. With HLB, the yellowing is usually asymetric. You may notice only leaves on one side of the tree yellowing.

When this is happening, the tree will no longer grow. If the tree fruits, the fruit may not mature properly, you can end up with fruit that looks half ripe and small. And don't expect it to taste good!

Eventually the tree will die, it could take up to 5 years. Within that time, it makes no sense to keep the tree around since any fruit produced will not be tasty and the tree will only look sickly while acting as a factory for ACP. If you have a tree that you suspect has ACP/HLB, call the California Department of Food and Agriculture Exotic Pest Hotline (800)492-1899.

Should You Grow Citrus? In the face of HLB, it's a fair question to ask, should we regular citrus growers stop growing citrus trees and leave it up to the professional farmers who are experts at recognizing and responding to disease?

The prevailing advice seems to be that you are okay to grow citrus, as long as you do not transport it. Do not take homegrown oranges on your hike with you, or lemons to a friend's house for a party. It's possible your fruit is infected with ACP and your trees are not yet showing symptoms.

Citrus trees are wonderful producers and can be a great candidate for living a permaculture lifestyle. But it also makes sense to consider alternatives before planting a new citrus tree in your yard. Would you be just as happy with a plum or apricot tree? Here is a small list of fruit trees to consider instead of citrus:

  • Apple
  • Plum
  • Peache
  • Fig
  • Jujube
  • Loquat
  • Persimmon
  • Pomegranate
  • Avocado

Why Grow Citrus?

Citrus trees are amongst the most useful trees to have around, particularly oranges and lemons. The best part is, once the fruit ripens it can stay on the tree either until it freezes. Or, for most of us in Southern California who don't get actual freezing, until it blooms, at which point you want the tree sending all of it's nutrients to the new food instead of the old.

In the U.S., we consume about 80 pounds of oranges per person, per year (70 pounds of that as juice). At a cost of $1.30 per pound, that's over $400 for the average 4 person household. Not a bad savings if you grow it yourself. If your family is like mine, there is also a not-insignificant amount of food waste that happens with store-bought goods because we bought more than we could eat in a week or two. When you pick your ripe oranges directly off the tree, that isn't really an issue.

If you are like me, when you think of citrus plants, you think of the typical medium sized lemon or orange tree. But there are actually a lot of different sizes of citrus trees, some make a good shrub or bush, and many can be kept small in a container and still produce a good amount of fruit. Our neighbor has a lemon tree that acts as a hedge between our yards that supplies us with just the right amount of lemons.


Growth Rate of Citrus Trees

Most people buy a citrus tree in a 5 gallon container. If that is the case, you can expect fruit in about 3-5 years after planting it in the ground. A typical citrus tree will take 10-15 years to reach full height. For a typical dwarf citrus tree, that suggests it will grow on average about 1-2 feet per year.


Water your Citrus Trees

Established trees will often survive in the ground with little or no supplemental water. When it comes to fruit trees, this can deceive you into believing they don't need water.

But citrus trees are tropical in nature. They actually need consistent but infrequent watering. Many people recommend giving your citrus tree a deep watering once per week. But this does not take into account your soil.

Many of us in Southern California have clay soil that is difficult to saturate with water, yet holds onto water for a long time. For this reason, it is important to check your soil before watering. In warmer weather, the top couple of inches of soil may dry out, but if you dig down a little you may find the soil is still quite damp. If you water too soon, the tree's roots may start to rot.

It is important that when you water you provide a good, deep water. The easiest way to do that is with a soaker hose or drip system. Ideally, you would have these provide water to the tree in two concentric circles, one slightly within the dripline and one slightly beyond. A nice slow watering over the course of an hour during the cooler part of the day should do the trick.

I still water my trees by hose. I often think about the way soaker hoses work when I do it. The dripline of a tree is significant. If you think of a tree as a person holding an umbrella, the drip line is the area around the umbrella where most of the rainwater falls.

This is where the tree's root system expects the most water to come from. This is where you want to saturate with water. And you want to do it as slowly as you can so the water soaks in rather than runs off. Set the hose on a trickle and move it around every ten minutes or so. It should take at least a half hour to really saturate the ground.


Fertilizing Your Citrus Trees

Citrus trees are heavy feeders so they need some sort of fertilizer. The best fertilizer is your own compost, which you should mix into the surrounding of the tree once a month during the growing season.

If compost is not an option, citrus fertilizer spikes can be really helpful. They release fertilizer into the ground slowly over several months. The slow release is necessary in order to avoid burning the roots of your tree, which chemical fertilizers are prone to.


Pests, Diseases and Nutrient Deficiencies

RCB and HLB Appears as yellow veins on leaves, progressing to the whole leaf. Characterized by asymmetrical yellowing of the tree's leaves. See RCB section for more info.

Dropping Flowers It's normal for a tree to lose some flowers without them becoming fruit. When most or all of your blossoms are dropping off, you may have a problem. Causes include:

  • Age of the tree
    • is it at least 3-5 years old?
    • has it successfully fruited before?)
  • Nutrition deficiencies
    • Examine the leaves for other signs of nutrition deficiency
  • Too much water
  • Too much cold
    • if a citrus tree experiences freeze after flower buds have started to form, you may lose all of the flowers and not get any fruit that year

Pale, Yellow Leaves Nitrogen deficiency. Add more compost or fertilizer.

Yellowish Leaves with Bent Ends Potassium deficiency. Fertilize with a potassium rich fertilizer, or compost with sufficient potassium sources, such as bananas or other fruit.

Necrotic Spots on Fruit and Leaves The fruit may have sections that are leathery or burnt looking. Leaves may also look burnt. This suggests sunburn. Is it receiving too much direct sunlight? Citrus trees love full sunlight, but may need some afternoon shading to prevent sunburn.

Care of citrus plants at home, how to get flowers and fruits, water and replant

Growing citrus fruits is not difficult, but getting them to bear fruit is not an easy task. You will need to ensure that your citrus tree is properly cared for - and it may thank you for your care with wonderful flowers and fragrant fruits.

Contents

  1. Which citrus fruits to choose for your home
  2. Environmental requirements
  3. Lighting
  4. Room humidity
  5. Soil mix and fertilizers
  6. Drainage
  7. How to water
  8. Pests
  9. Pollination
  10. Reproduction
  11. Status monitoring

Plant selection

Most often, several types of citrus fruits are chosen for growing at home, which take root well indoors and require minimal care. These include:

  • Orange calamondin. One of the most common. Its fruits are small and sour, but they can be used to make marmalade or as a garnish for summer drinks
  • Otaheita orange. It's not actually an orange, it's a dwarf hybrid of lemon and mandarin
  • Tangerines
  • Lemons: Ponderosa and Meyer.
  • Citron
  • Kumquat

Usually we are talking about small plants grafted onto a dwarf rootstock. Such citrus plants can be grown in almost any room.

Basic environmental requirements

First of all, you will need to provide your pet with the right conditions.

Citrus fruits grow best indoors at temperatures between 18 and 24 degrees Celsius.

Lighting

They need direct sunlight at least part of the time, so keep them near a window facing south or west.

In summer, citrus plants in a pot are recommended to be taken out into the open air for the sake of sunlight. However, there are several conditions here: for the first few days, keep your citrus tree in the shade or on the north side of the house to give the plant time to adapt. After that, make sure the tree gets enough direct sunlight. And before finally moving the tree into the house, repeat the adaptation period by holding the plant in the shade for about a week.

Excess lighting is not needed! Yes, citrus plants love light, but if a tree is exposed to bright light for 12 hours or more, it will not be able to sleep and will go into a vegetative state. 8 hours of light is enough for your pet. Try to mimic natural conditions, do not create an excess with artificial light sources.

Do not keep citrus fruits in a draft. If you open a window or door next to a plant on a cold day, it gets stressed, and in this state it can get sick and become vulnerable to pests. Signs of stress: the tips of the leaves turn brown.

Room humidity

Maintain indoor humidity levels, especially in winter. Optimal - 50% humidity.

This can be achieved with the help of modern air humidifiers, or the old proven "grandmother's" way: put bowls of water on the radiator in the room.

Additionally - spray the leaves from a spray bottle with water at room temperature.

Soil mix and fertilizer


There are a number of mandatory requirements for the soil.

  • Citrus fruits prefer slightly acidic soil. To lower the pH level, peat must be added to the soil substrate. A good ratio is a third of standard potting soil, a third of perlite or vermiculite, and a third of peat or other organic matter.

  • For citrus fertilizers, you also need to use fertilizers for acid-loving plants, mixing at half the recommended concentration.

  • It is necessary to add fertilizers to the soil in the phase of active growth, vegetation, from April to September.

  • Citrus plants are very fond of nitrogen, so fertilize in the winter, especially since they begin to bloom and bear fruit in the winter. At this time, foliar liquid top dressing can be applied.

Overfeeding citrus fruits is also a bad idea. And you can achieve this effect with the help of fertilizer sticks. Excess of them can burn the roots. if you use synthetic top dressing - strictly control the concentration and never exceed the recommended dose.

Signs of overfeeding: burnt edges of leaves, growth retardation.

Drainage

Citrus fruits are very demanding on good drainage. The accumulation of moisture in the roots can easily kill the plant, so water during irrigation must be removed to the outside, passing through the soil. A citrus pot should be provided with sufficiently large drainage holes. Don't let the citrus stand in the water! If after watering the water is idle for more than 12 hours, drain the excess.

Here are signs of poor drainage: damp bottom of the pot, soil that does not dry out, fungus and midges in the room. If the leaves of the plant turn yellow, wither, wilt and fall off, this is a clear sign that there is a problem with the outflow of water from the roots.

How to water

Yes, citrus fruits love moisture, but overwatering can kill them. Water the plant only when the soil is almost dry.

Signs of waterlogging when watering: the soil remains wet from day to day. Water accumulates in the pan. Leaves droop but do not dry out. Drosophila (fruit flies) curl around the tree. Leaves begin to turn yellow and fall off.

The best practice in this case is a systematic, clear watering schedule. Depending on the volume of the pot and the size of the tree, set the frequency. For example, water your citrus tree well until water runs out of the drain, and watch for a few days to see how quickly the soil dries out. On average, you need to water every 7-10 days.

Signs of lack of moisture: the soil substrate easily moves away from the walls of the pot. After watering, the water remains on the surface for some time before being absorbed. Water passes too quickly through the pot, not lingering in the soil. The leaves fall, and the branches dry and die. These are all signs of water shortage.

Do not use cold water for irrigation! This is a real shock for a tropical and subtropical plant, as a result of which the plant can get sick and die. The water should be about the same temperature as the air in the room.

Signs that you are watering too cold water: the veins of the leaves turn yellow.

Pests

Citrus fruits are vulnerable to some common insect pests, most notably scale insects, whiteflies and spider mites. check the leaves regularly, paying particular attention to the underside and tips of the leaves. Leaves must remain clean.

To get rid of insect pests, use insecticides approved for houseplants. In most cases, an aqueous solution of insecticidal soap will suffice.

Pollination

With proper indoor citrus care, your pet may bloom. This is great, but it does not guarantee fruiting. The reason is the lack of pollination.

In their natural environment, citrus fruits are pollinated by insects. There are none in the house, so you have to do it manually. The easiest way is to gently shake the flowers or tap them with your finger to spread the pollen from flower to flower. This is the easiest and most inefficient way. Let's consider a more systematic option.

Fruiting is a resource-intensive process for a plant, therefore, at the very beginning, empty flowers and weakened flowers must be removed. In this case, others will get more vital resources.

Your task is to identify the female and male parts of the flower. The stigma in the form of a thick sticky trunk in the middle of the flower is the female part, the stamens with pollen balls at the tips are the male part. Gently collect the pollen from the stamens with a soft brush or cotton swab and apply it to the stigma. The more hits, the higher the chances.

Now start tracking the ovary process itself. After pollination, a small fruit should form in place of the stigma.

Reproduction

There are three different ways to increase the population of citrus fruits. First of all, with the help of escapes. You need to take a live fragment about 25 cm long. The stalk must be placed deep in the ground so that only the top with green shoots rises above the soil. Place the cuttings for several weeks in a warm and bright place and keep there until they are well moistened and form the first roots. After that, the cuttings can be planted in a pot or in the ground in the garden.

The second method is called deflection. It is required to tilt the branch of the mother plant to the ground and make sure that it remains in the ground, holding it with a rope or stone. It is important that the substrate is loose, and the branch can quickly and easily take root. If there is enough sunlight and water for a few weeks, after three weeks the branch can be cut from the mother plant and the new tree will continue to grow independently.

You can also get shoots from the seeds of the fruit, but first they must be germinated in water.

Stem cuttings from citrus plants root easily, so you can use this method. Here are the basic rules.

Do not use young shoots with an oily-soft texture. It is better to root those who have had time to harden a little.

Cuttings should be taken during the growing season, preferably in early spring, in the active growth phase of the plant.

For planting, use a fresh potting mix, keeping the soil moist.

You can transplant the plant when the roots reach a length of a couple of centimeters.

Condition monitoring

If you grow potted citrus plants at home, make it a habit to check their condition daily. Leaves should remain green, upright, fresh. A few slightly yellow leaves are normal. Thus, the plant moves chlorophyll from old leaves to new ones. But it can also be a sign of a lack of fertilizer or excess moisture.

The appearance of a tiny cobweb or sticky honeydew on the leaves are signs of pest damage to the plant, which means it's time to take action.

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Caring for citrus plants at home

Citrus fruits grown on the windowsill cause surprise and admiration for many, but few people know that lemon has been grown indoors in the middle lane since the time of Peter I, that is almost as long as we know potatoes.

So, during this time, the behavior of citrus fruits at home has been well studied and working recommendations for the care of citrus fruits have appeared. Of course, a lemon or calamondin requires more attention than a dollar tree, but when created favorable conditions, citruses also grow well at home.

If you would like to grow citrus fruits, you need to look towards grafted plants. In our catalog you will find already fruiting citruses - in this case, you can enjoy self-grown fruits after a few months. By the way, indoor citruses, contrary to popular belief, taste good. On the contrary, ungrafted plants have an unpredictable taste. By the way, an adult lemon in room conditions can produce 15 or more fruits per year. True, they ripen rather slowly - from six months to 8 months. Now we will share tips that will help grow citrus houseplants.

So, what does it take to successfully grow citrus at home? It is necessary to monitor three parameters: air temperature, air humidity and lighting.

Temperature

Temperature is the most important parameter in this trio. Citrus fruits do not tolerate sudden changes in temperature and drafts. And, most surprisingly, despite their southern origin, they do not like heat - with low air humidity, a temperature of 25 ° C and above can lead to the fall of leaves, buds and ovaries.

Lemon, calamondin or kumquat will feel most comfortable at a temperature of 18-22 °C. In winter, with a decrease in daylight hours, the temperature can be maintained at 15-18 ° C and watering can be reduced to once a week. An important nuance: watering should be reduced only when the temperature drops, because if the room is hot, the earthen ball will dry out quickly and this will lead to twisting and falling of the leaves.

Care of citrus fruits at home in winter is very important to reduce to the maximum preservation of the foliage of the plant. After all, the green mass is extremely important for lemons, not so much for decoration, but for the formation of fruits. It is believed that citrus blooms should not be allowed if there are less than 20 leaves left on the tree - in this case, the load on the plant will be too great and it may die. So, if in winter you were unable to maintain a lush crown, it is better to remove the buds and wait until the citrus acquires foliage.

Air humidity

Another important parameter is high air humidity. It is the key to the preservation of foliage and plant health. After all, if the air is dry, the risk of pests and diseases in citrus trees increases dramatically. Ideally, in the care of indoor citrus fruits, spray the leaves of plants daily. You can also maintain high humidity by using a humidifier or installing a pallet with expanded clay and water. Of critical importance is the maintenance of high humidity in the summer in the heat, as well as in winter when the batteries are turned on. If the citrus is next to a working battery, be sure to cover it with a cloth and regularly moisten the leaves of the plant.

Although citruses do not tolerate temperature fluctuations and drafts, they thrive best with good air circulation. In the spring and summer, it is optimal to keep a lemon or calamondin on the balcony. However, in autumn it is important to have time to bring the citrus tree into the room before the difference in temperatures on the balcony and in the room becomes significant, so as not to expose the plant to a sharp jump in temperature and do no harm.

Lighting

The third important parameter in keeping citrus fruits at home is lighting. Lemons and calamondins really need an abundance of bright diffused light, especially during flowering and fruit formation. It is believed that windows of southern and eastern orientation are most suitable for growing citrus. Nevertheless, it is worth remembering that the scorching midday rays of the summer sun can leave burns even on the most light-loving plants, so in summer it is important to take care of shading.

Indoor citrus trees react very quickly to lack of light: the less light, the larger new leaves are formed in citrus trees at home. Despite the fact that lemons and calamondins are sensitive to change of place and moving, in order to form a harmoniously developed plant, you will have to gradually rotate the pot around its axis. In this matter, gradualness is important - it is worth moving the pot once every couple of weeks and no more than 10 °.

How often should I water citrus fruits at home?

We figured out the constant parameters, now it is important to understand how to ensure proper care in the matter of watering.

Lemons, calamondins and other citrus fruits are moisture-loving plants. The soil in the pot should always be kept slightly moist. However, you should not pour citrus trees, because if the root system starts to rot, it will be extremely difficult to save the plant.

The volume of the pot and the development of the root system, humidity and air temperature, as well as the composition of the soil determine how often citrus fruits need to be watered in summer. On average, indoor citrus trees need watering once every two or three days, but it is better to focus on soil moisture individually - after all, there are times when indoor citrus trees need daily watering in summer.

For irrigation, it is worth using well-settled water, as citruses do not tolerate the effects of microelements contained in large quantities in hard water.

How often citrus fruits need to be watered in winter depends on the room temperature and whether you use supplemental lighting. If the room is cool and you do not artificially increase daylight hours, watering once a week will be enough.

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Top dressing

Indoor citrus fruits need regular top dressing during the growing season (March to October). Without fertilizer, it will be difficult to get a rich harvest. Citruses, this is just the case when it is worth using a specialized fertilizer. It will be more suited to the needs of the plant than a standard all-purpose food.

Lemons and calamondins, like all plants, need nitrogen for rapid growth of green mass. But to start fruiting, you will need to apply fertilizers rich in phosphorus. At the stage of formation of the ovaries, it is good to provide an additional supply of potassium in order to avoid falling fruits. Potassium supplements also strengthen the immunity of citrus fruits and increase the resistance of trees to pests and diseases.

Fertilizers should be applied about once every 3 weeks for mature trees and once every 1.5 months for young trees. The nutrient solution is applied immediately after watering - do not replace watering with top dressing, because if you apply fertilizer to dry roots, you can burn them with chemicals. Feeding is not required in late autumn and winter.

Transplantation

Transplantation of citrus fruits is carried out in early spring once every 1-2 years, until the plant begins to bloom. To understand if an adult lemon needs a transplant this year, look into the drainage holes: if roots appear from them, it's time to transplant the plant.

Citrus fruits like acidic soil, so it is better to use a special soil. In most cases, citruses are transplanted by transshipment, so as not to cause too much stress to the trees. Do not bury the citrus root neck too deep into the pot, so as not to provoke it to rot and not to kill the plant.

If your citrus soil seems to be depleted in nutrients but the roots have not yet mastered the earthen ball, renew the topsoil - this will be a compromise solution.

Under the right conditions, citrus trees live indoors for several decades and reach a height of up to one and a half meters. A nice bonus: all indoor citruses release essential oils into the air, which help improve mood and prevent respiratory infections.


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