How to cut dead branches from a tree

How To Remove Dead Tree Branches

Dead tree branches are not only an eyesore—they can hinder the growth of healthy branches on a tree. These branches are also capable of causing enormous damage during adverse weather conditions. The National Storm Damage Center estimates that falling trees during bad weather cause more than $1 billion worth of property damage in the US every year. Plus, getting rid of dead tree branches can ensure the safety of your house and your loved ones, as they can pose a huge falling hazard.

However, removing dead branches isn’t as simple as it sounds. Improper methods can compromise the entire tree. That’s why our in-house experts have some advice on how to remove these branches efficiently.

1. A Thorough Inspection Is a Must to Identify the Dead Tree Branches

Don’t jump right into chopping off the branches you can see. Instead, take your time to examine the tree closely so that you know exactly which branches need to be removed. You only want to remove the branches that are damaged or diseased, without causing harm to healthy branches.

For example, if the branches are completely brown, it is time to remove them. However, if you scratch the bark and notice green spots underneath, there may be a chance that such a branch can be salvaged.

Similarly, branches without any leaves should be removed. If you have a deciduous tree, check whether the dead leaves have shed properly, as dead branches cannot do so, meaning the leaves hang onto the branches during the winter season.

Branches without any bark are also dead tree branches that should be removed. Finally, the presence of fungal growth, such as wood conk, is an indicator of a rapidly dying branch, and such branches should be cut off to prevent further infestation.

Also, you need to be extra careful if the tree is located near power lines or houses. Unless you inspect thoroughly, you may end up removing the wrong branches and compromise your safety.

2. Improper Cuts Can Adversely Impact the Rest of the Tree

You cannot haphazardly cut off the dead limbs. Once the limbs are removed, callous tissue forms over the wounds to prevent further decay. That’s why you have to be extremely careful about how you make the cuts.

Arborists use a practiced series of cuts to get rid of dead tree branches. You can start at the bottom of a dead branch and chop off a small notch about two to three feet away from the trunk and keep going for about a quarter inch. A cut like this ensures that the bark doesn’t split when you make other cuts. You can follow this up by making a cut outside the notch. This is known as a relief cut. Such a cut is an essential step before trimming the dead branch. An improperly made relief cut can damage the trunk and make it vulnerable to a variety of diseases.

Once you make the relief cut, you need to make a final cut on the branch collar. This is where most go wrong and end up removing the branch collar itself, resulting in tree rot and the death of the entire tree. To make a smooth final cut, you can either follow the slant of the branch and keep cutting or start from the bottom of the branch. Be careful not to leave extremely long branch stubs, as they can interfere with the growth of other branches of the tree.

3. There Are No Substitutes for the Right Tools

Using the correct equipment for chopping off the dead tree branches is non-negotiable. Appropriate tools ensure better cuts and proper removal of the branches. For instance, you can use a pruning saw with fine teeth for removing dead branches that are up to 2.5 inches thick. However, the same saw won’t be suitable for thicker branches. Similarly, using a dull saw can result in improper removal of the branches and leave the tree exposed to diseases.

You also need to care for the tools after each use. Ideally, it’s good to give the tools a nice wipe after pruning to remove any debris. You should also apply a thin layer of oil to the blades to prevent rusting. Give the tools a good wash with a disinfectant to avoid disease transmission when using the same tools for a different tree.

4. Improper Methods Can Be Dangerous for the Tree

Removing dead tree branches can go horribly wrong. For example, if you remove the branches nestled inside the tree (which is known as lion-tailing) along with the dead branches, it can result in breakage. If you chop off the top of a tree while removing the dead branches, it can cause structural imbalance and can topple the tree completely. If you end up removing leaves from healthy branches while getting rid of the dead tree branches, you can make the rest of the tree more prone to wind damage.

You should be mindful of the methods you use for clearing the dead branches. The bottom line is simple—under no circumstances should you compromise the overall structural integrity of the tree.

5. Know When You Should Contact a Professional Tree Service Agency

Using incorrect tools or methods for removing dead tree branches can result in your tree becoming weak and even dying. But even if you master the techniques, you may end up risking your safety and that of those around you. A misplaced cut could unexpectedly bring a branch crashing down.

Pruning is a highly skilled job, and mastering the art of handling different types of equipment isn’t an easy task. That’s why hiring a professional tree service company makes sense, and Mr. Tree Services in Portland, Oregon, can help you wherever you need it. Our team of qualified arborists can ensure the safe removal of dead tree branches without causing any additional stress to the tree or putting you in harm’s way. So don’t hesitate to contact us as soon as you spot a dead branch.

A Complete Guide to Pruning and Trimming Trees

by Chris Lambton

As leaves fall from the trees each autumn, branches formerly covered in a canopy of dense foliage come out of hiding. Although many gardeners would rather never deal with the falling mess of leaves, I relish this time as an opportunity to inspect each tree canopy. It's now that I carefully make note of any branches I may need to remove from my trees. Taking advantage of these dormant months gives me time to develop a plan for pruning and trimming trees in my landscaping.

In this article, you'll learn:

  • Why is it Important to Prune Trees?
  • Proper Way to Prune a Tree Limb >
  • Tree Pruning Tips >
  • Pruning Thick Tree Branches >
  • Best Tools for Pruning Trees >

Why is it Important to Prune Trees?

Tree limbs are pruned for multiple reasons, all of which result in a better looking and better performing tree. Although trees do grow quite naturally without pruning, this routine landscape maintenance allows your trees to reach their full potential and live a long life. But before you can learn how to trim a tree properly, you need to know why you should trim a tree.

Pruning for healthy trees

Pruning for plant health focuses on removing dead, dying and diseased branches, branches that rub together, and any branch stubs so the entire tree continues to grow in a healthy way. Opening up the canopy to let light and air filter throughout the entire tree allows for increased foliage while decreasing the risk of disease.

At the ground level, suckers and water sprouts weaken wood and steal nutrients from the main tree. By helping a tree establish one main tree and a dominant leader, you create a strong tree that's ultimately able to withstand winter storms and high winds.

Landscape maintenance and appearance pruning combine to create the ideal plant you envision. By pruning and trimming trees in specific ways, you can encourage fruiting and flowering, shape plants into specific forms and control plant size.

Pruning for safer spaces

While well-pruned trees are healthier, they are also stronger. Safety concerns are not often considered, but they're definitely a good reason to prune your trees. Trimming the trees in your yard creates a safe environment for your family and friends.

Dead branches, diseased trees and weak limbs are all a danger to people and property. When pruning trees, take a moment to assess if tree branches are becoming too close to safety lights, electrical lines or are blocking traffic views.

Depending on where you live, it is also important to prune trees to thin out branches and dead limbs before hurricane seasons. Too much foliage can result in trees being top heavy and falling over easier in storms while falling branches may damage a house or plants below.

Properly pruning a tree limb

When thinning, reducing and shaping branches and limbs small enough to cut with hand tools, keep in mind that your cuts are going to encourage new growth. With that in mind, cut limbs ¼ inch above a bud that faces the outside of the plant. This will be the direction of the new growth. Keep your cuts at a 45-degree angle to prevent water damage and disease.

3-cut pruning for thick tree limbs

Properly pruned tree branches form a callus where the removed branch once was. This callus is essential to the health of the tree. Most tree branches that are cut back to the trunk or a main branch will require three cuts to prevent damage to the bark. The first two cuts remove the weight from the tree branch, and the final cut is designed for the best callus growth.

Step 1

The first cut: Underside of branch.

Travel approximately 18 inches up the underside of the branch you are removing. This is the perfect location for your first cut. Cut up about halfway through the branch.

Step 2

The second cut: Topside of branch.

Move to the top side of the branch. Choose a location an inch further out from your first cut. Carefully cut down until the branch breaks free.

Step 3

The third cut: Outside of the collar.

Find the branch collar on your trunk. This is the stem tissue around the base of the branch. With most trees, you'll see a slight swelling and rougher bark in this area. You want to make your final cut just to the outside of this collar, but without leaving a stub. Make a complete cut with a 45-degree angle kicking out from the base of the tree. This prevents water damage and encourages the quick formation of the callus.

Tree Pruning Tips

Pruning trees may seem like a large project—and it can be. I recommend leaving large, established shade trees to qualified arborists and tree care professionals. They have the appropriate equipment and training to remove large branches safely. Ornamental and fruit trees are the perfect place to start learning how to prune a tree. Most are easily accessible and require simple tools.

Start Pruning Trees Early On

A proactive homeowner begins pruning as soon as a tree is planted. Diseased, dead and broken branches should be removed right away. Pruning for shape isn't necessary until the first winter after planting. Regular pruning throughout the life of a tree reduces the amount of work necessary and the stress on the tree. Pruning a tree a little each year creates a strong and beautiful tree from the very beginning.

When is the Best Time of Year to Prune Trees?

There is never a bad time to remove dead, damaged or diseased branches. But most trees benefit from pruning in mid to late winter. Pruning during dormancy encourages new growth as soon as the weather begins to warm. The lack of leaves after autumn allows you to easily identify branches and limbs requiring removal.

Be aware that some trees can bleed sap when pruned during late winter. For example, pruning maple trees in winter is ideal but can result in bleeding. Don't worry – the sap will stop flowing as soon as the tree begins to put on leaves. It isn't dangerous and it won't harm your tree.

Although I like to make my pruning plan in the fall, I always wait a few months before I start to actually prune. Pruning trees in fall can introduce disease. In the event of a warm fall, it could even encourage new growth which will be damaged when temperatures drop.

Pruning trees in summer isn't a popular option, but sometimes can be beneficial if performed with caution. Experienced gardeners use summer pruning to direct growth by slowing down the development of a tree or branch. The best timing for this form of pruning is just after the seasonal growth has reached its peak. By removing the total leaf surface of the plant, you reduce the amount of nutrients sent to the roots and the overall growth of the tree.

Now that we've established when the best time of the year is to prune trees, let's talk about flowering trees. They don't exactly follow the rules. Flowering trees fall into two categories: early bloomers and late bloomers.

Early Blooming Trees

Early blooming trees set buds on last year's growth. For example, a tree blooming early in 2018 is blooming on growth from 2017. If you prune over the winter, your tree won't bloom. Instead, prune right after the tree finishes blooming. Early blooming trees include:

  • Apricot
  • Chokecherry
  • Ornamental Cherry
  • Flowering Plum
  • Magnolia

Late Blooming Trees

Trees that bloom in late spring to early summer set buds on this year's new growth. For example, a tree blooming in June of this year is blooming on growth from this same year. These trees should be pruned in early spring for the best bloom:

  • Catalpa
  • Dogwood
  • American smoke tree
  • Hawthorn
  • Japanese tree lilac

Three Pruning Methods for Trees

There are many ways to improve both the health and the shape of a tree. The goal of each is to create a tree with good light and air circulation, attractive qualities and strength. The four most popular tree pruning methods for general pruning are crown thinning, crown raising, crown reduction and crown cleaning. You may notice that each pruning method involves the crown of the tree. That's because the crown of the tree is essential for producing leaves for photosynthesis. Without a strong and healthy crown, the rest of the tree will weaken over time.

Crown Thinning

Thinning the crown involves trimming a tree to remove specific live branches to reduce the overall density of a tree. Thinning is the most common pruning performed on mature trees. It increases sunlight penetration and air circulation. It can also reduce stress on selected limbs from gravity, wind, ice or snow.

Because the goal is not to change the size or shape of the tree, thinning should be consistent throughout the tree. You should only remove 10 to 20 percent of the tree branches from the edge of the canopy. Large trees benefit from removing end portions of limbs between 1 to 4 inches in diameter. Small ornamental landscape trees and fruit trees can be thinned by removing smaller limbs between ¼ to ½ inch thick. You should trim trees for crown thinning so that the tree still looks completely unpruned.

Crown Raising

Crown raising lifts the bottom edge of tree limbs up to clear for traffic, buildings or a view. This tree pruning method should be performed gradually over a long period of time. Removing too many lower branches all at once can result in a weak tree. Remove only a few limbs less than 4 inches in diameter when pruning every year.

I like to take a few steps back periodically and look at the overall balance of the tree. The live crown on deciduous trees should make up 60 percent of the tree. If the trunk begins to go over 40 percent, the tree could become weakened. Most conifers can be balanced at a 50 percent crown and 50 percent trunk ratio and still remain strong and healthy.

Crown Reduction

Crown reduction is a tree pruning method generally used on older, more mature trees. It can help strengthen the tree and encourage new growth. Crown reduction removes a tree branch back to a growing lateral branch. When the growing season begins in the spring, this lateral branch will become part of the new tree crown.

I consider this method a gentler alternative to tree topping. There are smaller cuts, less of the crown is removed and plenty of old growth remains for structure. While crown thinning is performed to reduce limbs and foliage, the goal of crown reduction is to remove old growth while encouraging new.

Crown Cleaning

Crown cleaning is the removal of dead, diseased and broken branches when trimming a tree. It can be performed at any time and should be included as a part of crown thinning, raising and reduction. Cleaning the tree crown strengthens the overall tree and prevents future damage to both the tree and surrounding property while increasing the overall safety of your landscaping.

Best Fiskars Tools for Pruning Trees

Now that you know how to prune trees, let's look at how to make it as easy as possible. Sharp, quality tree trimming tools can turn a dreaded chore into a quick task. I always keep these tools handy for all my garden pruning and trimming needs:


Fiskars pruners come with ergonomic handles and patented gear technology that gives up to 3X more power for cutting stems and branches up to ¾" thick.


Fiskars loppers provide reach and optimized power to cut through the middle branches up to 2" in diameter, where you need the most leverage.


Fiskars saws are ideal for removing large limbs and branches with clean, quick cuts. A unique tooth design cuts through wood quickly and smoothly.

Extendable pruners and saws

With extendable reach for branches up to 16 feet away, Fiskars extendable tools have a special low-friction coating for cutting branches as thick as 1 1/4 inch.

spring, summer, autumn {Farmer GARDENER DACHER}

© Farmer Gardener DACHIST

Many, even old gardeners, believe that pruning the garden should only be done in the spring, when the threat of severe frosts (below -10 ° C) has passed and just before flowering. This is fair, but not entirely true. Practical experience shows that pruning of fruit trees (in particular apple trees) can be carried out at any time of the year : spring, summer, autumn and even early winter. Only in December-January, the most frosty months, when the wood is not cut, but pricked, and it is very cold for the gardener, there is no need for pruning.

In early spring , pruning is carried out in order to obtain a new growth of sufficient length (up to 40 cm) and to obtain the effect of tree rejuvenation in a lean year.

Early summer pruning is preferable when the tree crown is lowered, because it prevents a strong regrowth of shoots at the top of the crown and is carried out in the harvest year.

In the summer period it is desirable to carry out sanitary pruning (broken, diseased, dry branches) and cutting (or cutting) of green shoots, preventing excessive thickening of the crown in the future.

Autumn pruning belongs to the category of know-how, every self-respecting gardener decides this question on his own. Early winter pruning is also possible if there are no early and severe frosts. At this time, it is useful to get rid of the “firewood” in your garden, i.e., cut out long, strong branches that correspond in their parameters to the main (skeletal) branches, but which are clearly superfluous and thicken the crown of an adult tree. From each such tree, you can prepare "half a car" of firewood, wood that is useless for a tree and use it for cooking barbecue, and ash as an excellent (potash) fertilizer.

In March-April, the most favorable time for pruning fruit trees begins. The early spring period is most favorable for the first post-planting pruning of seedlings planted in the fall of the year before last and in the spring of last year (i.e., in the second spring after planting), as well as in the reconstruction of old (30-40-year-old) gardens. In recent years, this work has been carried out most actively. Some gardeners remove old trees in order to replace them with young ones in order to see the fruits of their labors themselves and remain in the memory of their descendants as diligent owners.

The younger generation is moving away from the traditional purpose of the garden and transforming summer cottages into recreational areas through landscape design. However, if there are young apple trees in the garden (other species have their own characteristics, in particular, berries are cut in the snow - currants, gooseberries), first of all, it is their forming pruning that needs to be done. This is justified by the fact that the buds occupying the apical position (apical dominance) are the first to awaken, and there are very few of them in young - just planted - trees. Delay in pruning leads to the removal of the upper, already awakened buds, which will significantly weaken the young trees.

In country gardening, unfortunately, one can often see trees with an ill-formed crown (naturally) or, even worse, with improper pruning by an inept gardener: very early removal of the central conductor, fuzzy selection of the main branches of the first tier, growing without shortening and forming ankle-length, long branches, as well as excessive removal of less developed branches into a ring, instead of their oppression by tying them into a horizontal position, interlacing with each other, deforming them, etc. Throughout the entire period of crown formation (6-8 years), it should be kept the advantage of the central conductor by 20-25 cm - in varieties with a pyramidal crown and by 10-15 cm - with a sprawling one.

In addition, you should follow the recommendations for trimming technique. It is better to shorten one-year growths, depending on the bud awakening inherent in this variety and the shoot-forming ability (by 1/2 or 1/3), not by a bud, but leaving a spine 1.5-2.0 cm long. In this case, the bud you choose (from which the continuation shoot will grow) will be 100% preserved, in contrast to the well-known bud pruning technique.

Moreover, in contrast to the generally accepted recommendations (when forming the crown, cut the main branches of seedlings in varieties with a spreading crown to the inner, and with a pyramidal crown to the outer bud), it is better to first do the opposite of . In the first case, the cut is made on the outer bud and during the growing season an outward-oriented shoot is obtained, and the next year it is cut out on the underlying shoot, directed inward, which makes it possible to obtain a whiter compressed crown in the future.

In the second case, first a cut is made on a bud, from which an inward-oriented shoot will grow, and the next year this shoot is cut to a lower branch, directed outward, thus, year after year, the crown will open more and more. Subject to these recommendations, an amateur gardener will be able to form a full-fledged crown according to a sparse-tiered system.

In practice, a very different picture is often observed. The following disadvantages usually occur : part of the branches grows at acute angles of origin; there is no subordination between the branches of the 1st tier and the higher ones; lower branches lag behind in growth; individual strong branches grow inside the crown; without shortening, the branches are excessively lengthened without fouling with small branches; branches of the 2nd order are formed on the branches of the 1st order, which is undesirable with a small feeding area in the country garden; there are crowns with a dead central conductor.

When correcting crowns of young trees , remove branches with very sharp angles of deviation or give them the desired angle of deviation; regulate the growth of skeletal branches by restoring subordination; eliminate excessive elongation; thin out a too thickened crown.

When carrying out these operations, it must be borne in mind that the restoration pruning should not be too strong, otherwise it will weaken the growth of trees and significantly delay their fruiting. Branches with very sharp angles of discharge are removed to the ring. If there are a lot of them, they are first weakened by pruning, and then gradually removed.

For regulation of the growth of branches in the crown, subordination is restored at the level of their tops. Weak lower branches are excluded from the main ones and left as temporary semi-skeletal ones. In trees with pyramidal crowns, elongated branches are shortened into branches to the periphery. Branches that cross and grow in parallel greatly weaken, making room for more promising ones. The crown growing upwards is removed or cut into lateral branches.

In the event of the death of the central conductor, its place is is replaced by a competitor or the upper strong branch is pulled to the top and continues to form on a new conductor. In heavily thickened crowns of young trees, stronger and more promising branches are chosen; the top one should be single; the rest are weakened in growth and transferred to a horizontal position; some of them are removed.

After correcting the crown of the tree, pruning is applied according to the variety and age period.

April is a kind of rush hour for gardeners. Every self-respecting summer resident believes that "fruit trees should be cut"! And it is right! But not everyone takes into account what and how to do it right and in what sequence.

Unfortunately, we have to admit: the summer resident stubbornly, every spring, definitely wants to cut something off each tree, and what exactly is not so important. In a young garden, some gardeners for some reason tend to cut off more soft overgrown branches to a height “as they get it”. It is very convenient, not only a sparrow, but also a magpie will freely fly through the crown of such a tree. And where will crop be formed? Moreover, they completely do not pay attention to the shortening of the main (skeletal) branches and their subordination to the conductor.

Others are satisfied that their young trees have laid many generative (fruit) buds, give "many" fruits, but there is no good (up to 50-60 cm) growth. In this case, the crown of the tree will not be formed for a long time, which will lead to significant shortcomings that are difficult to correct.

In orchards where the work on the formation of the crown of young trees was carried out in a timely and correct manner, plantings smoothly pass into the following periods of their development: “growth and fruiting” and “fruiting and growth”. These are the most productive periods in the life of a fruit tree.

In one case, the tree grows well (growth over 40 cm) and increases fruiting due to numerous small overgrown branches with fruit formations (collets, spears, fruit twigs), in the second case, it gives moderately high yields of quality fruits and maintains sufficient growth (not less than 35-40 cm). In such plantations, gardeners strive to maintain the correct direction of growth of branches and good illumination of the entire crown of the tree, especially its inner part. They monitor the further enrichment of the crown with semi-skeletal branches, as a rule, in an inclined (horizontal) position, directed from the center.

Overgrowing (small) branches can be located on the inside of the main (large) branches and even on the central conductor (trunk). The length of the main branches by shortening is not allowed to exceed 2.5-3 m. From the very beginning, the top of the crown is freed from possible thickening, limiting the size of the tree both in height and in width. By the way, it is better if the crown of the tree is wider than high.

In the future, during the period of growing crops, it is necessary to maintain the previously started limitation of the crown height to 2.5-3 m. This allows pruning, protection against pests and diseases and, most importantly, harvesting with the least difficulty.

In practice, gardeners who have orchards aged 15-25 years, somehow do not follow the ratio of growth and fruiting of their trees. Satisfied with getting ever higher yields, they do not notice that the annual growth becomes smaller and smaller each time, until it completely fades (5-10 cm or less). Since there is no new growth , young fruit formations are not formed, the fruits become smaller, and a sharp periodicity of fruiting occurs.

Only then do the owners of such gardens try to get advice on how to correct the “mistakes” made. Sometimes "epiphany" comes much later. It is much nicer to hear when people are interested in pruning the youngest trees, but even better about it think before laying the garden, combining the issues of the chosen system for the formation of high growth or low growth of variety rootstock combinations, the placement scheme adopted by you, and the growing conditions of the future garden (self-suitability of the garden array).

In any case, fruit trees in your garden should not be "launched", they require your constant competent attention. At a young age, pruning is minimal using other methods of crown formation (garter, spacers, weaving, pinching, etc.).

In an adult garden - timely removal of the central conductor (8-10 years old), pruning of skeletal branches at a height of 2.5-3 m with transfer to a side branch, the presence in the crown of a sufficient number of semi-skeletal branches (1-2 branches each through 30-40 cm on the outer or lateral sides of each skeletal branch).

It should be taken into account that pruning the top of the crown in order to reduce the height of the tree is best done in the harvest year and late summer (June), then you can avoid the rapid and strong growth of top-type shoots. Conversely, anti-aging pruning should be carried out periodically in 3-4 years in early spring (April) to obtain a sufficiently strong growth (40 cm) and in a lean year.

Following these (only some) instructions, you can keep the tree "in order" for many years (30 years or more) and get average yields of marketable fruits almost every year. Otherwise, in one year the maximum yield of low-quality fruits, in the other - nothing. Both are bad.

Most of our fruit plantations are of a solid age (plants of the 60s - 70s). At best, sanitary pruning (dry, diseased, broken branches were removed). If such trees have a healthy trunk, skeletal branches, are not affected by chlorosis and other diseases, then, in accordance with the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe food allotted to them, their height and width can be reduced. (Fig. 1).

Such a tree has a large number of skeletal branches of the 2nd order, an excessive number of semi-skeletal branches, often going inside the crown and thickening it. In this case, the crop is mainly formed on the periphery of the crown and in its uppermost part. Such a crown is poorly ventilated by and becomes a breeding ground for pests and diseases.

Pruning to reshape a large tree (height 6-7 m, width 5-6 m) into a relatively small tree is time-consuming and, of course, cannot be painless. Therefore, some cutters recommend that this work be carried out in stages, sequentially, over several years. But, in our opinion, it is possible to carry out a one-time pruning of the entire tree (there is such an experience), however, in this case, a significant part of the crop, although of poor quality, will be lost. You need to be prepared for this and it's up to you to decide.

So, our problematic tree can't "fit" into the feeding area allotted to it earlier. In any case, first of all, the central conductor is removed above the upper skeletal branch, leaving a "protective link" (Fig. 2). Further, with large distances between trees (7x3 m), a maximum of 6 skeletal branches should be left (Fig. 3). With an average standing density (6x3 m) - 5 (Fig. 4) and with a high density - 4 skeletal branches (Fig. 5). At the same time, 2-3 skeletal branches are left in the lower tier, and the remaining 2-3 are located sparsely along the trunk.

One should strive not to inflict a single major wound on the tree trunk. The branch is cut out with a "protective link" or transferred to a semi-skeletal. Take as rule - it is better to cut one large branch when thinning the crown than many small ones.

The next step in pruning our tree is to reduce its height to 3-3.5 m and lateral (left and right) pruning to obtain a good growth (at least 40 cm). This is rejuvenating pruning!

Again, in order to maintain a sufficient yield, only half of the top of the crown can be removed first and side cut on one side (Fig. 6). If you accept a large loss of yield, then you can remove the top of the crown completely and carry out side pruning on both sides at a distance of 1.5 m from the trunk at an angle of 15-20 degrees from the vertical, so that in the future the upper part of the crown does not obscure the lower one (Fig. 7 ). So make up your mind!

Unfortunately, in practice it is often possible to meet not only neglected, but also completely trees damaged by improper pruning with completely bare skeletal branches to a great height (Fig. 8). With such trees, it is generally difficult to think of anything to fix them. At least, wait for the newly formed shoots and in no case remove them, but use them to form semi-skeletal branches and overgrowing branches.

  • At the beginning of summer

We continue to work with trees cut in spring.

Young stands were pruned to form a crown. In this case, it is necessary to save the shoots of the continuation of the main (skeletal) branches, and at the same time carry out breaking out shoots growing inside the crown, and normalizing the number of shoots extending outward (including lateral shoots), preventing their thickening. Future semi-skeletal branches should be laid singly or in pairs 35-40 cm apart.

Fruit-bearing trees pruned to reduce the crown, all newly growing shoots at the top of the crown must be removed, otherwise there will be a strong thickening that prevents illumination of the center. In general, the illumination of all parts of the crown may not improve, but, on the contrary, worsen. In addition, gardeners often hesitate to remove the central conductor, and it is highly branched. It had to be done first of all , but you can do it now, that is, already with the ovary.

When carrying out side pruning to rejuvenate the crown of the tree, excessive thickening at the ends of the branches should also be avoided. First of all, the competitors of the continuation shoots are removed.

Shoots that form in the lower part of the crown, including "tops", if possible, do not remove, but turn into fruit-bearing ones (by tilting, pinching, pruning, interweaving of shoots).

These are the main mistakes of amateur gardeners, do not make them. If you have pruned trees in previous years and allowed a strong thickening at the top of the crown, then you need to carry out repeated lowering of the crown at a lower height from the soil, cutting off the formed “rows”.

Read the previous article "Pruning of fruit-bearing trees, protective link, rejuvenating pruning"↖↖↖

Read the continuation of the material "Pruning of old trees,

correction of mistakes"↘↘↘

Return to the section "Fruits-berries-nuts"↩

Pruning of tree branches in Moscow and the Moscow region

  • Felling trees
  • Cutting down trees
  • Demolition of trees
  • Trimming of tree branches
  • Sawing trees
  • Rooting
  • Tree trimming
  • Clearing the site from trees and shrubs


  1. Pruning and debranching: views
  2. How we work
  3. How much does it cost to delete a branch?

Need to cut tree branches at a height? Professional tree trimming services. Fast cleaning of trees from branches.
Please call: +7 (495) 991-55-21!

Tree pruning is part of the trimming job. However, full coverage is not always required. In most cases, we are called with a request to remove a tree branch that is an obstacle or an obstacle, or to cut branches, cut tree branches at a height, remove a dry branch, etc. In this case, we are talking about pruning the branches piece by piece.

Specialists of the company "Vysotnye raboty" perform professional pruning of branches at a height. We work in Moscow and the Moscow region, and we can also go to orders in neighboring regions.

Cleaning trees from unnecessary or emergency branches, cutting knots is the work that we perform promptly. At the same time, the speed does not affect the quality in any way - it always remains consistently high, because professional arborists with extensive experience always take up the matter.

Pruning and removal of tree branches can be divided into types:

Thinning pruning is carried out in order to reduce the wind load from the tree and give it a neat appearance.

Rejuvenating removal of tree branches stimulates the growth of new shoots and allows you to form a crown of the desired type.

Sanitary pruning consists in removing dry branches and twigs, as well as branches and shoots with obvious signs of drying out or damage by diseases, insects. Sanitary pruning has several degrees, depending on which order of branches are removed. Branches of the first order are those that grow directly from the trunk. Branches of the second order grow from branches of the first order, and branches of the third order from the second.

Utility pruning is the removal of interfering parts of a tree. For example, a branch constantly “knocks” on a window or on the roof, a large branch touches the wires and can cause them to break, etc.

The most requested tree pruning services are sanitary and utility debranching. Sanitary pruning of branches does not require paperwork, and for all other types of crowning and pruning, a felling ticket is required. For trees located within garden plots and plots for individual housing construction, a felling ticket is also not required.

How do we carry out pruning and removal of branches and knots?

Work is carried out in a gentle manner. Rope technique is used, branches descend with loops. We do not use "cats" and "gaffs" when pruning branches, thus the trunk is not damaged.

Branches are cut by hand. The saw cut is treated with a wood antiseptic, which allows you to protect the tree and disguise the saw cut.

How much does it cost to delete a branch?

Everything is individual here, as in the case of deleting a whole tree. The table shows approximate prices for the removal and pruning of tree branches, but the final cost is affected not only by the type of tree, its height and trunk diameter, but also by the type of pruning (for example, sanitary pruning of branches of the 2nd order and 1st order may be different in cost) and conditions in which the arborist will have to work.

Table of approximate cost of tree pruning:

Trimming ratio

1 2 3

Diameter ( D )

Coefficient ( K )




up to 40 cm.




40 to 50




50 to 60




The approximate cost of pruning and delimbing work can also be calculated using the formula: Base rate (cutting branches of the 1st order) x K = Total amount

If it is necessary to cut branches and branches in the Moscow region or outside it, then transportation costs are added to the cost of work.

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