How to cut down a hung up tree
Safely felling problem trees - UW-Madison Extension Forestry
Photo Credit © William Klase
Art and science of harvesting treeschainsaw, safetyBill Klase
There are some simple things you can do get hung-up trees on the ground safely and efficiently.
A family project in the woods can be a great opportunity to reconnect with relatives you haven’t seen in a while, and get a good deal of work done. A recent work day at a family property was all of that and much more. It is the much more part that I will share some insights from, today.
Having worked with some of the accomplished chainsaw operators out there, I have developed a healthy respect for the power of the tools we use and the trees we address. So, I arrived at the work site wearing all my safety gear, and intent on taking a measured tone to the work we needed to accomplish. It seems I was the only one that day with that intent in mind.
My siblings and in-laws arrived with nothing but their chainsaws and a determination to get the work done as fast as possible. The extent of their safety equipment was work gloves and the misguided notion that they “knew what they were doing.” Let me cut into the story here and state that no one was injured during our workday, thankfully.
Without much of a plan in mind, everyone who had a chainsaw just started cutting anywhere they thought work should be done. This led to multiple trees being felled and processed within very close proximity to each other, and sometimes two people processing the same tree at once. Additionally, there were folks running around grabbing branches and rounds for stacking and chipping (an added dimension of noise and arguments on what should be chipped or not).
For the problem trees, “simple” solutions were instigated to get the job done. That meant cutting from a ladder or a tree stand, or by climbing the tree and working while perched between branches.
All of these done without a safety harness, and cutting with the chainsaw above the shoulders. Did I mention that no one was injured already?
Now, I am not much of a preacher and prefer to lead by example, but I was having little impact on my gung-ho relatives. My pleas for only one person working on a tree at a time, or for folks to stand back during felling, or that “things can’t be just sewn back on” fell on mostly deaf ears. I did manage to have a bit of an impact when it came time to address hung-up trees (trees that fall into another tree rather than on the ground) and widow-makers (trees with large branches or tops hanging from them).
You see, the chaotic felling and lack of skilled chainsaw use led to some newly created problem trees. Since I was the one with the helmet, everyone pointed at me to get these down.
There are a number of ways you can deal with a widow-maker. If it is in a remote part of your property where few people venture and does not need to immediately come out, then you can just leave it.
Let some future strong winds knock the hung up branches off.
If you need to get the tree down, then position yourself so that you are never standing directly below the widow-maker. Instead, work from the opposite side of the tree and make sure you designate a safe escape route before you begin to cut. In other words, keep the tree’s trunk between you and the widow-maker, and try to fell the tree in the direction that the widow-maker is on. If you are forced to cut while standing under the widow-maker, have a buddy keep an eye on the branches above while you are cutting. Your buddy can give you a signal the moment the widow-maker starts to move so that you can retreat along your pre-designated escape route.
Hung-up trees require a bit different strategy. You can just leave the hanger alone if it is not threatening anything, but you must mark off the area surrounding the hung-up tree so others don’t wander into this dangerous area. Unfortunately, people have died when a hung-up tree has suddenly come crashing down.
The safest way to get a hung-up tree on the ground is to use a tractor or truck and a long rope to pull it down. Sometimes it is possible to push or pull the hung-up tree to free it. But be sure to work from the butt of the tree. If you are going to push it by hand, set down your saw and push with both hands for greater force and stability.
You can also try rolling the hung-up tree free using a cant hook. To do this, partially cut the holding wood (or hinge) of the hung-up tree on the side adjacent to the supporting tree. For example, if the hung-up tree is leaning into the right side of another tree, cut the holding wood on the left side of the hung-up tree and roll the hanger clockwise (as facing the butt) to your right. But whatever you do, never try to bring down a hung-up tree by felling another tree onto it or by cutting the supporting tree. Such attempts usually result in a bigger problem or a trip to the hospital.
At the end of the day, my relatives were a bit more sober about the work they were doing and they took better care to be as safe and efficient as they could be in the woods.
How to remove a hung-up tree – Husqvarna Chainsaw Academy
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Husqvarna
Chainsaw Academy
AuthorHusqvarna Chainsaw Academy
Last edited
March 30, 2021
Last editedMarch 30, 2021
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If you accidentally fell a tree into another – always start by taking a break and thinking through the situation calmly. Removing a trapped tree is always a hazardous undertaking and there is no need to rush. Choose the safest solution to the problem even if it takes longer. There are several options. Do not be afraid to call for help – your safety is more important than anything else.
Below are two methods that you can use to easily bring down a hung-up tree – as long as it is not too big or too entangled in the second tree. But first let’s take a quick look at recommended tools and some very important safety rules.
Tools
These are tools that will come in handy when removing a hung-up tree:
• Turning strap
• Turning hook.
Often comes with the breaking bar.
• Winch (advanced, not covered in this topic)
• Forwarders or tractors fitted with grapple loader or winch (advanced, not covered in this topic)
Safety first!
Working with or close to hung-up trees can be very dangerous. Never leave a trapped tree unmarked. Mark the area with highly visible marking tape if you must leave the area to get other tools or assistance. Follow these rules and make sure to never put yourself or any other person in danger:
Method
Rolling the tree method
Slightly leaning hang-ups are usually easy to roll down.
Use the turning hook or turning strap if you think that the tree is not too stuck. Here’s how to do it.
Step-by-step
1. Asses the tree
2. Adjust the hinge
3. Roll down the tree
Expand all steps
1. Asses the tree
Assess the tree to decide in which way the tree can be rolled down.
2. Adjust the hinge
You need to adjust the hinge to make is possible to roll down the tree.
Start with sawing off the middle of the hinge so that two corners are saved. Then cut off the corner on the opposite side from the direction in which you intend to roll down the tree. Cut this corner with repeated saw cuts diagonally from above. Make sure to leave the corner on the same side that you intend to roll down the tree.
3. Roll down the tree
Take the turning hook (or use the turning strap to attach a branch as a lever) and roll the tree away from you. Lift straight with a straight back and knees bent.
If the tree is large or has hung really tightly, you can increase the rolling force by using the turning hook or turning strap with a longer piece from a thin tree.
Collapse all steps
Method
Step down method
Severely leaning hang-ups can be difficult to roll down, and must be levered or pulled backward. The method is based on removing the tree from the stump or the place where the tree is stuck with the butt end in the ground. The trunk should have a good sliding surface and fall off cleanly.
Be aware that the trunk could sever too early – never stand in the direction of movement or under the trunk.
It is important that the two saw cuts are not made too high up on the trunk as it could “fold down” at the breaking point. If the tree is too tightly hung, you should use a tractor, winch or other machine.
Here’s how to perform the step down method.
Step-by-step
Animation
1. Create a slider bed
2. Make the backside cut
3. Place a wedge
4. Saw the front side cut
5. Knock the wedge
6. The hung-up tree slides backwards
7. If needed, lever with a pole
8. If needed, repeat the process
Expand all steps
1. Create a slider bed
Lay branches and poles on the ground in front of the trunk to form a surface /slider bed.
2. Make the backside cut
Cut into about half the diameter of the rear of the trunk. Continue cutting from the other side if the guide bar is shorter than the tree diameter.
3. Place a wedge
Insert a wedge to prevent the backside cut from pinching.
4. Saw the front side cut
Saw the next cut from the front, parallel to the previous cut, but 3-5 cm below. Cut into about half the diameter of the trunk. Taper the front of the trunk.
5. Knock the wedge
Knock in the wedge until the wood fibres split between the two cuts. Stay alert – the trunk usually slides off the stump at the same time.
6. The hung-up tree slides backwards
Performed correctly this is the result of the step down method. The tree splits from the stump, slides backwards on the sliding surface, releases from the tree it got hung-up on and falls to the ground.
7. If needed, lever with a pole
If the hung-up tree did not come loose by knocking in the wedge: Lever the tree with a 2 – 3 m long rod/pole in the direction of movement until the tree breaks loose and slide down.
8. If needed, repeat the process
If the tree does not come loose, repeat the process from step 1. Remember: safety first. If in doubt, seek help from a hung-tree expert.
Collapse all steps
10 sec
Your browser does not support the video tag.Last edited
March 30, 2021
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Practical advice
"People can't go outside from their houses. Trees can fall on you while you're working." Woodman Speights, a firefighter in stormy Mississippi, has extensive experience with chainsaws in harsh conditions. Certain hazardous tasks, such as clearing trees downed by a storm, should only be performed by suitably trained professionals. "I've seen when a storm has done really serious damage," Spates says.
| Woodman Speights |
|---|
| Age: 23 Occupation: Starkville Fire Department Hometown: Ponotok, Mississippi |
Clearing an area that has been blown down by a storm is one of the most dangerous tasks a chainsaw can do. According to statistics, the number of injuries during the clearing of the territory after a storm exceeds the number of injuries directly during it. Woodman Spates and his colleagues at the Starkville Fire Department always have chainsaws on hand to help.
During the last task of clearing trees after a storm, the team had to work in an emergency situation: a large oak tree collapsed on a private house.
"We got a call saying that a tree had broken the roof of one of the houses. But before we could get to it, we had to clear the streets of a lot of other fallen trees."
Woodman's team used chainsaws to accomplish this task. The task was challenging, as they had to work with debris and broken wires that pose a fire hazard.
"The most important thing is to always remain calm. If you start to act rashly, you will probably get hurt. And you don't want to get hurt in such a situation," says Spaites.
Thanks to the volunteers who helped remove the cut branches and debris, the first part of the clearing work was completed in 30 minutes. After that, firefighters were able to get to the right house. They found that the crown of a huge tree completely blocked the passage and the family was blocked in one of the bedrooms on the second floor.
"First, we checked to see if there were any live branches in the crown. There were no such branches. Then we started sawing off branches to clear the way for the residents of the house."
"The most important thing is to always remain calm. If you start acting rashly, you will probably get hurt."
What advice would you give chainsaw owners about felling downed trees?
"Remember, if you're not sure you can handle a task, don't take it on. If you feel like you don't have the resources, the experience, and the situation isn't urgent, it's best to get the job done by a professional."
7 tips from the pros for clearing trees downed by a storm
| Before starting work |
|---|
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Make sure all your colleagues involved in clearing the forest are professionals and know their job. This task should only be carried out by suitably trained persons. 1. Choosing the right equipment
Make sure you have the right protective clothing for your chain saw. It is also necessary to regularly check how quickly the protective functions of your equipment work. Carry a first aid kit with you at all times, as well as extra fuel and oil for your vehicles.
Remember, the most important thing you can take with you when you go to work with a chainsaw is a partner. Try never to work alone.
"Usually a team has a foreman who distributes tasks. In addition, volunteers often help us. It is extremely important that all participants have a good conversation before starting work, because then it will be almost impossible to hear anything because of the noise chain saws and ear protectors," Spates explains.
| Storm Forest Equipment |
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2. Work planning
Before starting work on a forest site with trees felled by a storm, you should carefully assess the situation. Are there broken wires or debris in the treetops? Is there stress in the trunks or trees uprooted? You should not start work without looking around properly and without determining the scope of work.
It is also extremely important to consider an escape route in case of an emergency.
"The only time it's better to rush when clearing a site is if a tree falls on you. At that point, you just need to throw the saw away and jump back along a pre-planned escape route," comments Spates.
3. Making cuts where stress is present
The most common problem encountered when clearing downed trees is stress in fallen trunks. Stress can cause the tree to move unintentionally during sawing. As a result, springy branches can jump out and injure you, damage equipment, or move the trunk, which in turn can cause the saw to get stuck.
Woodman Spates explains how to deal with stressed fallen trees:
"First, we cut off all the small branches to improve visibility. Then we cut off the areas of the trunk that have the most weight before moving on to the stressed branches. On the next In this step, we make a small cut on the stressed side to release the tension, and then slowly and carefully make three or four additional small cuts until the tension is completely released.
It is extremely important to release the tension slowly and in stages."
This is a dangerous job that only professionals can do.
Overstressed: Pressurized side cut
Cut through the inside of the bend (because this side is under pressure). Make an open guide notch with a wide opening angle. File a little at a time on both sides at the same time until the tension is relieved. With full control of the situation and the right direction, the tension gradually decreases. Handle the rounded top of the tire with care to avoid kickback.
Medium tension: open reverse cut
- Make an open guide notch on the inside of the trunk bend to a depth of approximately one third of its thickness.
- Remaining on the inside of the bend, make small cuts on the outside of the bend at the center of the guide notch until the trunk breaks. fell trees in the correct sequence
Avoid risky actions and always think over escape routes.
Start with taller trees to reduce the risk of falling trunks that can trap you.
The trees shown in the picture should be removed in the following order: 1, 2, 3 and 4.- Leaning tree
- Broken tree, hanging/fallen tree
- Uprooted tree lying on the ground
- Trunk without crown, high stumps
4. Felling a tree with a natural slope
Start with a tree that has a natural slope. The roots of the tree are probably under tension on one side and the position of the tree is unstable. For this reason, in no case should you walk in the felling area. Fell the tree with a safe straight corner cut. On a steep slope, a regular or deep wedge cut should be made. After that, the tree will begin to slowly fall. In this case, the trunk will be integral with the stump, which reduces the likelihood of splitting or damaging objects in the immediate vicinity.
5. Felling broken trees with hanging crowns
- Saw off the top of the tree first to make the trunk easier to unroll.
- It is necessary to lower the broken part of the barrel using a swivel hook or strap, or to free it using a special technique.
- You can now knock down a tall stump in the normal way. However, it should be remembered that a bare trunk falls faster, can bounce off the butt and roll back in any direction.
6. Handling fallen trees uprooted
Uprooted trees should never be sawn from the butt if there is the slightest danger of the trunk falling towards you. If you need to process the whole tree with a chainsaw, it is better to start from the top. This will relieve tension before you get to the roots. Start by delimbing so you can see if there is tension in the trunk.
Estimate the length of the top of the trunk and cut where it ends. Or saw off the butt of the log in such a way that the roots cannot rebound. After that, use a tractor with a grapple or a winch to tilt back the uprooted tree with a high stump.
Warning .
After the trunk has been sawn off, the uprooted tree must not be left upright. If the tree is not completely felled, it could fall on bystanders and cause serious injury or death. Saw off the roots by hand before the harvesting equipment arrives, only if there is no risk of the uprooted tree turning over. You must be in a safe place in case the barrel falls.
After sawing off the roots, the trunk can move to the side with great force. Therefore, a clear escape route should always be provided. Stand with the root system to your left, and cut the trunk to the right at a distance of about 0.5 m from the starting position. This will protect your legs in case the trunk falls to the side during the sawing process.
7. Felling of broken trees without hanging crowns
Broken trees and high stumps are felled in the usual way - just like normal trees. However, it should be remembered that a bare trunk falls faster, can bounce off the butt and roll back in any direction.
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Hanging tree during felling
Even if the feller is a professional, constantly involved in logging, has a lot of experience, I am sure that in his practice there were many such cases as hanging tree when felling trees.
Novice fellers have already “met” in their practice with hung trees (or else they will “meet”). We have talked about "hanging" more than once in articles on the blog, especially in the topic of safety. We dismantled the battery roll, single hanging and knocking down. All this is deadly, but it is met and applied in a life situation. Nevertheless, lumberjacks continue to ask such questions, you can see this in the screenshot I provided, which came to my site. Of course, a feller's cut tree can hang not only in the cutting area, but also in the city, when clearing power lines and other facilities, when a specialist is working to remove emergency trees, "extra" plantings. Let's try to sort out these questions together.
Causes of a hanging tree
The reasons for hanging trees during felling are obvious, and it is not always possible to avoid them. These are both the mistakes of the feller himself, and the features of the felling technology, the features of the plantations.
The feller's errors include the following points:
- incorrectly (inaccurately) washed down the tree;
- sawing the tree incorrectly;
- weather conditions are not taken into account;
- relief features are not taken into account;
- site features (neighboring trees).
The first point is banal and common. The feller is deprived of skill and experience, or is tired of working on time or weather conditions (heat/frost). It does not cut accurately, and as a result, the tree being cut down hangs on a nearby standing tree. In addition, trees are “riveted”, that is, they grow with an inclination in the opposite direction of the roll, or to the side - to the right or left in relation to the fall. It is necessary to take this into account and correct washed down.
The second point, like the first one, was that the feller did not competently cut it. As a rule, this often occurs with inclined trees, when it is necessary to adjust the thickness of the undercut (“hinge”) of one of its sides.
The third item depends on the weather. For example, the wind. Gusts of wind, especially lateral and oncoming winds, lead the cut tree to the side and, as a result, “hanging”. It also happens that after a heavy snowfall, one of the sides of the tree crown, under the heavy weight of adhering snow, leads the cut tree to the side, and it freezes.
About the relief. Sometimes lumberjacks have to develop a cutting area on the slopes. Or some sections of the plot have logs, watersheds. In this case, the feller is forced to cut trees, being at a disadvantage. If he works in tandem with an assistant, then it is often insurmountably difficult for a partner to push the tree being cut down. The feller makes a mistake - he cuts down the tree completely, as a result, it goes to the side and freezes.
Features of the site. The forest can be different: short and long, heavy and not very heavy, even and crooked (growing to the sides), with a small crown and spreading. All this and more affects the features of felling trees.
And the feller should keep this in mind. Moreover, there are different situations. For example, when working in a clear-cutting area. Lumberjack safely drops the forest for a long time: specially “millimeter” for a more accurate felling of the forest and smooth, rambling pines successfully fly even through the foliage of the trees in front. “Prochuhav” is a feller in another area repeats his tricks, but most of the trees freeze. A less heavy and shorter forest with a spreading crown will inevitably hang if the feller takes risks and "beats" into small gaps. On the contrary, a heavy forest on a site with a small density of plantings (a sparse forest) successfully flies through the neighboring tree crowns.
Selective final felling requires more serious skill. As a rule, portages are marked here, the trees are tall, and the corridors are narrow. The crowns are closed, and the feller finds himself in a situation where the "hanging" is obvious in advance.
For example, aspens with a spreading crown cover the gap above the portage. An experienced feller removes a problematic tree from the apiary so that it does not interfere with felling. But if this problem can be prevented in selective final fellings, but in thinnings, such a technique cannot always be used. After all, each tree is marked (stamped) on the thinnings, therefore it is not always possible to remove a disturbing tree. Therefore, the cultivator (forest master/forester) must himself see such a possible problem and prevent it (select it for felling). Are all rangers professionals? There are also emergency trees - dead, faut, with a split trunk. When they fall, they can also go to the side. In this case, it is necessary to use special tools (bandage, winch) and equipment. If the feller ignores such actions, then this refers to his professional mistakes.
Below we will discuss how to remove a hanging tree safely, according to the instructions and prohibited methods that can cost the lives of loggers.
How to drop a hanging tree
According to the feller's instructions, the hung tree must be pulled down using a skidder or hand winch. No knocking down and heaping is not allowed. However, the fellers should find out who ignored the TB points, or remember and repeat the point from the OT. Quote:
Actually, these were points from the TB on the "pendants". Now let's look at ways to remove hanging trees, the safest and most reliable, but at the same time the most tedious and troublesome, is the use of a skidder. The picture is clear from the outset: the “hanging” is hooked by the main cable choker to the butt, the tractor moves, unwinding the cable from the winch to its full length, and pulls the tree. As a rule, fellers ignore this method so as not to be distracted themselves and not to distract the tractor driver from work. With small amounts of work, lumberjacks use this method, according to the instructions, with impressive volumes, they ignore it, that is, they violate safety regulations.
The use of a hand winch to remove hanging trees is extremely rare, since it is most often not in the "ammunition" of felling teams! Today, a forest user rarely equips workers with this device. If the winch is available, then it is fixed on a strong healthy tree with a strong root system, with a butt diameter of at least 24 cm at a distance of at least 10 meters from the "hanging". Then you can pull the hung tree by the butt.
When there is no manual winch, you can use a home-made device (gate), consisting of a cable (rope) and a lever, which is used as a durable dry round timber (sub-product / balance). One end of the cable/rope is fixed to the butt of a hung tree, the other end to the end of the lever, which is brought behind a healthy tree. The lever is turned around the trunk and the hung tree is dropped.
If a feller uses a felling shovel with a kontak (hook), then a hung tree can be dropped by rotating the trunk around its axis, catching the trunk with the kontak.
But this is only in the case when the tree is not "tightly" hung and is feasible for such an operation. In such a case, you can also use a felling fork, when the assistant feller, standing away from the "hanging" by swinging, resting the fork on a tree, pushes it off another tree. Please note that before starting such operations, it is necessary to completely cut the hung tree (butt from the stump), otherwise the canting will not work. At the same time, keep in mind that cutting off completely “hanging” you can get a serious injury. The butt can play back, because the hung tree rests on the top of the head and presses in the opposite direction. Common injuries in this feller: crushed feet, broken knees. The barrel can also hit in the chest, which is deadly! In addition, it can clamp the saw bar on the chainsaw. This method is also prohibited. It happens that a hanging tree has a cut that is relatively low from the butt. In this case, it is necessary to make cuts (from 4 to 6 cm) on both sides at the point of breaking, hook the choker above the cuts and pull the tree off.
This operation is recommended even by OT. If the scrapping is high, but it is necessary to pull the tree with a tractor, while the equipment should be positioned at 90 ° to the longitudinal axis of the top of the tree.
It happens that a feller has hung a tree, started fussing, knocking it down with another tree, and as a result, hung up this tree as well. Then another tree - another "hanging". The result is a "bonfire". In this case, it is necessary to disassemble this "bonfire" only with a tractor. In this case, the order of removal is as follows: the tree at the top is pulled off first, after the one on which the first rested, and then in order. Of 2 or more nearby inclined and hung trees, the one that is easier to land is pulled off first.
Common tree removal methods
Common tree removal methods should be classified as prohibited operations. Nevertheless, they are used everywhere by many lumberjacks. Have I used prohibited methods in my practice? Yes, and repeatedly! This is bad? Yes, definitely! I won't make excuses - I'm a bad feller.
But even that feller who runs after the tractor to remove the “hanging” cannot be called a good non-specialist. If someone says that you need to be able to hit accurately! ))) Guys, I beg you))))))). Above, I gave an example about thinning and selective felling - you can’t take too much there, and dumping trees into closed gaps is not always realistic. I had a case where a tall two-peaked pine grew on the edge, and these trunks began to grow about two meters from the main trunk. And the trunks diverged far from each other. In this case, it is necessary to separate (cut off) the trunks one by one (separately). Hanging is unrealistic, since there are practically no crowns, and the trunks are bald. The lumen covers one of the trunks. According to the instructions, I am a feller, I had to fell the tree in the direction of the tree's slope - in the direction of one of the trunks. And this is perpendicular to the line. There was little experience - about 2 years at the most. I decided to file this two-top and knock it down with the next tree, because the next tree will not pass in any way.
He aimed at the top, began to drop, but the "bit" slid along the top and fell between the trunks. The saw cut was insufficient, and the two-peaked pine did not fall, but another huge pine fell between its trunks, and its butt was lifted up by 6 meters. Such a rocker! I climbed under the double top - I decided to finish it as much as possible. But the overlying pine crushed the two-peaked one and that's it! As a result, I decided to take the tree to the side - almost perpendicular and piled on "his invention". All this, of course, fell safely - but it was such a pogrom, such a blockage that the tractor driver swore and cursed me, unhappily tearing the choker. It’s good that they were pines, and the branch cutter didn’t take so painfully long to sort out my art (they removed branches in apiaries, and not in a warehouse). It was annoying, but as I got older and more experienced, I thought it was good that I was alive then.
From my point of view, just a hand winch should be in the arsenal of a feller.
It is especially necessary in the case when the tree "tightly" hung with its trunk on the trunk of the tree in front, where, in addition to the trunk, the "hanging" is also held by the crown. It is risky to knock down such a tree - you can “sharpen” it so that you can’t even make it out with a tractor. You can break the cubature, or make it difficult to skid / move the tractor. You can cripple or injure other lumberjacks. If a sawn tree hangs with its trunk on the crown of a far-standing tree, then in this case most fellers saw off blocks from the butt part of the hanger. Thus, the problematic tree becomes shorter and during the impact of the butt when sawing off the block, it flies off the “hook” and falls safely. When sawing off a block, the feller makes a shallow cut from above, and then - the final cut from below. The tree breaks in the saw cut area and separates into a block. The risk lies in the possible clamping of the saw bar, and these chances are quite high. Some fellers do not take risks and do not make the top notch, but immediately cut down from the bottom.
In this case, premature scrapping is dangerous and there is a risk of injury. This method is forbidden, but often used! The "churak method", as I said above, is more often used when "hovering" on distant trees. When a tree hangs on a nearby standing tree, the feller tries to knock down the “hanging” with the next tree, or saw down the one on which it hung. Knocking down with a slight tilt of the hover is fraught with the fact that the next tree may also hang. Now the feller will no longer stop, and will hang consistently until all this immense gigantic round dance is thrown into an avalanche on the portage (if only on the portage)! As a result, some members of the brigade will come to an indescribable delight! If branches are cut off in apiaries, then the delimber is provided with an extraordinary pleasure to enjoy the “haircut” of his “wards”, who are pressed into the general heap. The tractor driver will hang himself!
More "thoughtful" fellers in this case saw down a tree against which a hung tree rests.
Very dangerous method and unpredictable outcome! If birch and pine still “may give time” for leaving during a fall after a saw cut, then spruce may not give this time, and aspen (the most insidious tree) breaks instantly! In this case, it is necessary to evaluate the cubic capacity and weight of the trees you are working with. If a hung tree is many times lighter than the one on which it hangs, then the chances of a successful outcome increase. If it's the other way around, then "the case smells like kerosene." In winter, when the depth of the snow cover is great, the risk is unimaginable! Even if you make exit paths, there is no complete certainty that the trees will not fall on them at the time when you "dive" along them. I won't describe the hanging sequence and landing here. Who wants to get acquainted with this, let him read the article the secrets of skill, where these operations are described in detail by me.
City limits Linear objects
Parks, squares, power lines and similar non-industrial forest objects - all this is a high-risk area.
