How to cut down a rotten tree
Tips to Safely Cutting Down Dead Trees
It’s in our nature to love trees. We love how green they make our community and the many benefits they provide, from fresh air to fruit to flowers. Trees are assets that increase our home value and improve our mood. But, just like all beautiful living things, their long lives eventually come to an end.
So, what do you do when you notice a tree in your yard has lived its long life, but now it’s time for removal? Cutting down dead trees is no easy task, so you should probably consult an arborist to confirm there is no way to save the tree and then have your tree expert use the proper tools and technique to safely cut down any dead trees on your property. And, here at Mr. Tree, we are ready and willing 24/7 to assist with this process.
However, if you are a skilled do-it-yourselfer and have the knowledge and equipment to take on the task, here is our best advice for cutting down dead trees.
Remember, safety always comes first.
Even before you secure the necessary tools, ask yourself, “Am I ready to safely tackle this project? Do the people assisting me know the necessary precautions to take?”
At Mr. Tree, our focus is always safety. First, we ensure that by felling a tree we will not cause harm to ourselves or the people or animals around us. Then, we make a carefully devised plan to avoid potential damage to nearby structures or other trees.
These safety measures include safe chain saw etiquette. Rule number one: never work alone with working with a chain saw.
Do you have the correct tools & supplies?
Once you know you’ll be taking on this project safely, and with a partner, do you have all the right equipment? Here is our recommended list:
-Saw gas & bar oil
Is your chain saw in good condition?
To ensure safety, check to main sure the chain saw you’ll be using is working properly. This means checking to note that the chain brake is working, saw dogs are attached to the saw housing, the bar is as long as the diameter of the tree you’ll be cutting, and that the chain has recently been sharpened.
If you notice that the chain saw is dull, damaged, or just not cutting straight, immediately stop cutting down your dead tree.
Make a plan.
Don’t just step up to a dead tree and start cutting. First, make a plan that includes felling-to-lead. This means that you are cutting in a way that ensures the tree will fall in a certain direction. In this case, the tree is angled 30 to 45 degrees to either side of the skid trail.
Keep an eye out for potential “widow makers”. These are tree fragments that could potentially fall and cause serious injury (hence the name) during the felling process.
Notice the weather. Gusting winds can cause trees to tip in the wrong direction. If you see trees moving, do not attempt this project. Also, avoid fog and smog. This can hamper vision at the tree crown, as well as obscure potential widow makers. If the tree sits on a
steep or uneven slope, this can also quickly turn into a dangerous situation. Skip DIY felling altogether and call in the professionals. Better safe than sorry.
Think about the tree itself.
Dead or rotten trees are more likely to cause an unsafe situation when felling. They often have loose limbs and bark and unstable tops. These loose limbs are more susceptible to outside forces and are more likely to fall unpredictably. If you know your tree is dead or rotting, it is strongly recommended that you leave cutting down dead trees to the professionals.
Additional unsafe conditions include trees with sharp curves near the base, which are more likely to uproot during felling; alder and maple trees, which are susceptible to hidden rotten heart wood; and trees near utility lines, roads, or other houses.
Make an escape plan.
Felling trees is inherently dangerous, so think ahead of time about how you and your workers will escape potential emergency scenarios. Your path should lead as far away from the stump as possible and be clear of shrubs, rocks, or any other obstacles. You also want the path to be in the opposite direction of where you expect the tree to fall.
If you are unable to create a clear escape path, call in the professional tree fellers.
Now, start with the undercut.
So, if after reading the above you still want to cut down your tree, then you’re ready to begin, and this first step is the undercut. This is the notch cut in the tree that allows it to safely fall. This is the cut that determines the direction the tree will fall, so it’s one of the most important steps. Based on your goals, you’ll either want to go with the conventional undercut, Humboldt undercut, or open-face undercut. Note that the undercut is the proper depth, the cuts are level, and that the cuts match-up.
Next, it’s time for the back cut.
This is the cut that actually causes the tree to fall. It’s made horizontally and must be at least as high as the horizontal undercut. Do not make the back cut lower than the undercut. This could cause the tree to move backward toward you.
Before this cut, stop the chain saw and give a warning call to those around you. Do not intersect the back cut and the undercut. Instead, leave a bit of uncut wood between the two cuts. Then, as soon as possible, insert a falling wedge into the back cut. The wedge will help ease the tree in the right direction and can also help you adjust if it starts leaning the wrong way.
If the tree doesn’t fall after these steps, drive in the wedge using an axe until it does.
Keep an eye outduring this process.
Don’t forget to continually look around and ensure the environment is safe. Watch for overhead hazards, clear up any hang-ups, and notice if any limbs or tree tops are left in adjacent trees.
Felling trees is a dangerous task that should not be undertaken lightly. If at anytime you are hesitant about this tree removal process, call in our service at Mr. Tree. We are available 24/7.
16 Things You Should NOT Do When Cutting Down a Tree
When felling a tree, it is imperative that you take the necessary precautions (and avoid these 16 no-nos) to keep you and the structures around you safe.
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Don’t Forget Safety Gear
Safety isn’t a throwaway word when it comes to felling trees and running chain saws. You must take it seriously. There are a few absolutely essential safety gear items you need to wear for any chain saw work:
Buy safety gear and wear it. Special chaps will often stop a moving chain and save your thigh. A helmet with a face screen and ear protection is a convenient way to keep head, eye and ear protection handy in one comfortable package. Wear steel-toed, cut-resistant boots and a long-sleeved shirt to protect against the inevitable scratches. You’ll find this gear at chain saw dealers. Plus: Check out other safety gear every DIYer should own.
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Don’t Use a Chain Saw That Should Be Retired
Cutting down a tree is no small task, and it requires a powerful tool. To keep you and your helpers safe during this project, be sure that your chain saw is in tip-top condition. But if your saw is past the point of repair, it’s worth buying a new one.
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Don’t Work Alone
You’ll be a lot safer if you have a trusted assistant standing a few feet behind you watching the top of the tree for falling branches and letting you know when the tree starts to fall. Have your assistant tap you on the shoulder with a stick to alert you when it’s time to vacate the area.
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Don’t Just Wing It
Do your research on how to cut down a tree safely. And before you even start your saw, stand back and size up the situation. Think about how you’ll cut each branch and what will happen when you do.
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Don’t Lean You Ladder Against a Tree
It might be tempting to lean a ladder against a tree to do some pruning. Don’t do it. This stunt accounts for a large percentage of chain saw injuries.
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Don’t Run Out of Oil or Gas
Fill the gas and chain oil reservoirs before dropping a tree. The last thing you want is to run out of gas in the middle of a felling cut.
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Don’t Lose Your Grip
Never take either hand off of a running saw. If the saw kicks back, there’s nothing to stop it. Use an encircling grip with your thumbs wrapped around the handles.
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Don’t Attempt Cutting Down a Rotten Tree
Leave rotten trees to the pros. If the heart of the tree is rotted out, the felling direction can be extremely unpredictable. In addition, it most likely has many dead limbs above that just might shake loose and land on you during cutting.
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Don’t Use a Dull Chain Saw
We’ll show you how to sharpen a chain saw, making the job of cutting down a tree much easier.
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Don’t Forget to Recheck Chain Tension
Before starting, check the chain tension. Recheck it after every hour or so of use, and adjust it if necessary. New chains stretch and need to be checked after 20 minutes of use. Loose chains can fly off the bar, causing serious injury. A loose chain also damages the drivers BAR on the chain and prevents them from fitting back into the bar groove.
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Don’t DIY Around Power Lines or Near Structures
If there’s even a small risk that you won’t be able to fell a tree away from power lines or structures around your house, it’s not worth it to DIY. Hire a pro.
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Don’t Cut in the Kickback Zone
This spot, called the kickback zone, is the top half of the bar’s tip. If the kickback zone comes in contact with something while the chain is moving, the saw will kick up and back toward you. That’s why modern chain saws are equipped with a chain brake designed to stop the chain if a kickback occurs.
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Don’t Pinch the Saw
When cutting up your felled tree into smaller pieces, the saw can become pinched if you cut too far through a branch that supports the trunk. If this happens, stop the engine and use a stout branch as a lever to lift the trunk and free the saw.
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Don’t Cut the Ground
When cutting up a felled tree, avoid touching the ground with the chain because even a brief encounter will severely dull the cutting teeth on your chain saw. If possible, cut partially through the tree and then rotate it to cut the rest of the way through.
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Don’t Leave the Stump
You can remove a stump by renting a power stump grinder, but another way is to buy a can of tree stump removal.Most tree stump killer brands are made of powdered potassium nitrate, which speeds up the rotting process. You simply pour the granules into drilled holes and fill the holes with water. The stump will become pretty spongy after four to six weeks. Keep kids and pets away. Then you can break out the rotten wood with an ax.
Originally Published: May 29, 2018
How to cut down a tree on your property
No matter how gardeners take care of the plants, it is sometimes necessary to cut down or uproot trees. How to cut down a tree on your site without big problems? All this is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. Let's figure out how to do it easier and better.
There are various reasons why a tree needs to be removed. Old diseased or emergency trees, shrubs in new areas are often subject to sawing. Sometimes you have to uproot old fruit trees that are not suitable for their varietal characteristics or strongly obscure young plantings.
In any case, the task of cutting down unwanted and large trees on the site must be approached intelligently and prepared accordingly so that there are no problems with the law.
So widespread is the erroneous opinion that if the land is in their ownership, then trees can be cut on their plot without permits. This approach applies only to fruit trees and shrubs in suburban areas.
It turns out that if you want to uproot an old apple tree or bush, then you will not need permission. But if it comes to an adult oak, a large maple or any other tree growing on your site, then it is not always possible to do without the execution of the relevant documents.
Don't want to be fined or otherwise punished? - read the document in your region, which stipulates the rules for the maintenance and protection of green spaces. Perhaps by cutting down an adult tree, you will break the law.
Of course, you can uproot a tree quietly, but no one is safe from compassionate neighbors who will not fail to write and report where they should be about your illegal actions. And cutting down trees at night is not very exciting.
What kind of trees should be uprooted?
Trees also have their own lifespan, so even varietal fruit trees sometimes need to be removed and uprooted. It is especially important to do this on your site if the tree is sick, rotten or staggering.
These trees usually have a broad and rather dense crown, they are tall and can threaten buildings and people. At any moment, with a strong gusty wind or under the weight of snow, the tree can collapse. To protect yourself from such a case, these trees need to be removed.
How to cut down a tree on the site?
The easiest way out is to turn to specialists who are engaged in such work. Then you will quickly and painlessly get the finished result for a fee. If you do not want to bear the costs and are confident in your abilities, then you can cut down the old tree yourself. For this you will need:
- long strong rope,
- work clothes,
- and definitely an assistant.
If possible, prepare the work area first. Determine the height of the tree and remove from the area equal to two tree heights everything that can be broken and damaged when the trunk falls. Cut down the largest branches first. Then carefully inspect the tree. Often, old trees, under the influence of prevailing winds or uneven crowns, are tilted to one side. It is better to make sure that when cutting down the tree falls in the direction of the slope.
Cut off all branches on the side where the tree will fall. This way you will protect yourself from branches and chips that have bounced off when falling. If the crown of the tree has “fallen apart” into two parts, then it is better to first saw off the branch that pulls down, and then deal with the rest of the crown.
If a whole tree needs to be cut down
If you are going to fell the tree right away, tie a rope around the trunk as close to the top as possible. The assistant will pull the rope and direct the fall in the right direction. From the side of the fall on the trunk you need to cut a triangle. To do this, washed down at an angle of 45 degrees per quarter of the girth of the trunk and washed down under it parallel to the ground. This piece is taken out. Further, on the reverse side, one person saws at the level of the cut slice, and the other pulls the tree by the rope in the direction of the fall.
If the tree is cut in pieces
Sometimes it happens that it is not possible to make room for the tree to fall. Especially if there are buildings or power lines nearby. In this case, you need to use a stepladder or a high ladder to cut the trunk in parts. In no case should you “cut the branch on which you sit”, namely, you should not saw while sitting, hanging or clinging to this tree. Limbs and health are more important.
How to uproot a stump
Of course, after cutting down a tree, you need to do something with the remaining stump. If the cut tree was small, then uprooting will not be a problem. But if the tree was old and the stump resembles a good coffee table, then you have to tinker with it.
The easiest way out is to fit the stump into the interior of your site or cottage. A good designer and a smart gardener can make a beautiful garden table, bench, or flower vase out of the remaining stump. However, such a table cannot be moved, and in most cases the stump is not located very well. Stump removal works can be divided into two groups: mechanical and chemical.
Chemical stump removal
- Potassium saltpeter. This method is long, but not laborious. Many holes are made in the stump, into which saltpeter is poured. The stump is covered with a film from the rain and they wait for many days until all the wood is saturated with saltpeter. After that, the stump is set on fire and it merrily and quickly burns to the ground, including all the roots (I strongly advise against doing such a procedure if your site is located on a peat bog).
- Roundup and other herbicides. A tree, even a sawn one, has underground a root system almost the same in area as a crown. And the sawn tree is trying to make up for the lack by a large amount of root shoots. If you do not need it, then the stump should be treated (several times) with a roundup. Be careful if the solution gets on the cultivated plant, it will die.
Mechanical stump removal
- Tractor with grubber. This is perhaps the fastest and easiest way to uproot. Find a tractor, show a stump, and in a few minutes enjoy the uprooted roots, the earth scattered around and the ruts from the tractor wheels (if your soil is soft). I do not recommend removing stumps in this way in spring and autumn in rainy weather. Otherwise, you can then also do uprooting the tractor.
- Hands. Take a shovel, a saw, more volunteers and begin to systematically dig in the stump and cut the roots. After that, you act with a good crowbar, like a lever and the stump flies out.
- Winch. You wrap the stump with a cable and act as a winch (you must act carefully, sometimes the cables have a bad property of breaking).
I wish you a quick disposal of unnecessary trees, easy uprooting of stumps and, almost forgot, PROTECT NATURE!
8 methods to cut down a tree. 🌳 Correct cut technology. ✅ Blog SpilKursk.PRO
8 ways to cut professional arborists
Author: Korovin Maxim Comments: 0 Reading time: 7 minutes
There are situations in life when the head of an organization, the owner of a site, a tenant or just a tenant of an apartment building needs to understand how to cut down a tree correctly. There can be many situations of necessity. It is important to remove the tree in accordance with the law and regulations so that people and the site where it is located do not suffer.
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Professional arborists from the SpilKursk.PRO company will help you safely cut down a tree!
Sawing with hand tools
- Chainsaw operation
- Cutting the trunk and branches
- Stump removal
Professional tree removal
- Free felling cut
- Using the natural slope of the trunk
- Guided cut with guy
- Free throw swath
- Cut in parts with curtain
- Complete removal
- Sawing when the tree is fully hung
- Use of vehicles
Sawing with hand tools
The technology of manual removal of trees seems to be the simplest and cheapest, especially on your site. Let's see, is that right?
Working with a two-handed saw or an ax today is the "last century", which can only be used without health risks on shrubs or thin trees. Therefore, such "technologies" are not discussed.
You can not work with a traumatic angle grinder or a hacksaw for metal, designed for other things.
Almost any owner of equipment is sure that he knows how to cut down a tree with a chainsaw. In fact, this work is dangerous and requires a clear alignment of actions.
Tool : the chainsaw must be fully prepared before operation - sufficient level of gasoline, oil, chain integrity and tension checked (when the chain is pulled from the top of the bar - it is necessary that the guide teeth do not come out of the groove), switching on and off without jamming.
Wood : determine the fall area of the felled tree, clear the area in that direction, cut all knots up to shoulder height. The fall zone of the object is planned 2 times more than of it crowns.
If you are going to fell a tree for the first time and it is not possible to determine the fall zone by eye, you can hold a carpenter's ax or any object 60-70 centimeters long (the standard length of a carpenter's ax handle) at arm's length, move towards the tree until the ax and tree become "of the same height". In the place where you stopped and there will be a point of contact with the top of the earth tree.
- Oblique cut of wood from the side of fall from top to bottom at an angle of 60 o , to the base. Sawed to a depth of up to a quarter of the diameter of the trunk.
- Notching horizontal or at an angle of 30 o - made from the bottom on the same side, until it connects to the top, until a wedge is obtained. The cut angle should be 45 o . Full sawn wood prohibited!
- felling cut. Clearly on the opposite side of the future fall trajectory. It is carried out parallel to the second cut, but with a distance of 5-10 cm above it and leaving 10% of the diameter uncut. Not finished between the main cut and the saw cut is the guide chip. It is left at the corner of the broken tree. If left incorrectly, part of the barrel bounces back violently and can pierce a person's chest.
Saw in 3 stages - the basic basis of any tree sawing.
Possible options for cutting from the side of the fall: the first is a horizontal notch, then the second goes to the connection to the first from above at an angle of 45 degrees. All the time it is important to work smoothly, without jerks, but at maximum engine speed. When the final cut is nearing completion, a wooden wedge is inserted and hammered into it so as not to jam the chain guide. You can use a pole, pre-installed cables, and even a jack to guide the barrel.
At the final stages, it is especially important to follow the direction of movement of the trunk in order to cut the tree with a chainsaw in the right direction, if necessary, correct or run back. As soon as there is a crack trunk, you need to urgently remove the saw, turn it off and move as far as possible. It is important to calculate in advance so that a fallen tree does not get stuck in the branches of neighboring trees or power lines. There should be enough space left on the ground so that you can come up for sawing branches and cutting the trunk.
Peculiarities of sawing sloping trees
A tree whose slope from the vertical does not exceed 10 o is considered upright and is sawn in the usual way. If felling is to be carried out on the opposite side of the slope, it is important to consider the following:
- After the main cut, it is important to level the tree in the right direction, while coping with the resistance of the guide chip. You can align with cables or make one edge of this chip wider.
- To block the reverse movement, you can use a winch or chain hoist.
- If the slope of the trunk is more than 10 o , it is better to choose a different way of cutting, without the need for leveling.
For old, rotten trees, it is better to leave the guide chips thicker so that they do not burst at the most unexpected moment. If this happens, the trajectory of the tree's fall cannot be predicted. If possible choice in space, it is better that the cut tree falls on the side where it has more branches and branches.
Safety and retreat areas for fellers are located on the sides of the fall path at approximately 45 o . It is impossible to remain in the place opposite to the fall. If a person makes a mistake in the thickness wood chips - the trunk will sharply go back and cripple.
If you need to cut a small tree, there will be no particular problems. But if the tree is of a decent age or rotten, big troubles can arise. A person may not accurately calculate the direction of the fall, make a mistake with the depth of the undercut or even jam the saw in the cut. At the most unexpected moment, the appearance of wind or a change in its direction is possible. All this is fraught at best with a broken tool, a branch flying over the head or shavings in the eye, and at worst - a broken roof of a structure that has turned up under the trunk and even broken ribs or a neck.
Cutting the trunk and branches
The branches are cut down starting from the bottom of the lying tree. Each branch, first from the bottom, then finished it from above. In large branches, a large part is first cut off, then the remainder is finished.
If you don't have enough experience, then it's better not to start dismantling large trees alone. It is very difficult to calculate the forces, and you will get tired very quickly, which will increase the risk of error.
Maxim Korovin Arborist. Head of the company SpilKursk.PRO
The cutting of the trunk begins with a cut to half in depth. Without taking out the saw, a wedge is hammered with an ax. This is a guarantee that the equipment will not be squeezed between parts of the tree. Then comes the doping.
Only a person with serious experience can use a chainsaw for sawing in a stump. There is a high probability of a strong rebound of the saw!
|Stump type||Working technology|
|Small||Use a shovel under the root in a circle like a lever. If a tearing sound is heard - well, the process has begun.|
|Medium||Dig a hole 2-3 times wider than the trunk. Hard roots must be cut or cut off with an ax from both sides. You can use a chainsaw, but first thoroughly clean the roots from the ground in the place of the saw.|
|Large||Can be used as a crowbar lever. If it is possible to install - use a lever hoist or a 3-4 ton winch, if there is a strong support for its attachment.|
|Any||Use a wood chipper that will cut the stump into shavings with disc blades.|
If it was not possible to overcome the stump, you do not want to make special efforts to cut down, and time is not in a hurry - you can use the "old-fashioned" method, which works great:
- Use a drill with a long drill bit to drill many vertical holes in the stump, 15-20 cm deep.
- Pour one of the agents into each: carbide, potassium or ammonium nitrate. The first remedy works best. For a stump diameter of 60-75 cm, 1 kg of carbide is enough.
- Pour the agent with water, strictly without splashing.
- Seal the openings securely to prevent rain from getting in. You can use chops, but it's easier to wrap the stump with construction polyethylene and tie it with twine. In order not to fly away the edges - press them down with stones or sprinkle with soil.
- A year and a half mixture will "dissolve" the stump.
- Remove the polyethylene, spread the "bonfire" on the stump and move away. A very active burning of wood will begin. Such a fire goes inside up to 2 m and burns even thick roots.
See also: 8 ways to remove stumps.
At first glance, the simple removal of a tree is fraught with many surprises and additional physical work. You need a sober assessment of the risks and time spent on this for a person who has never felled trees. serious work can be done quickly and safely only by specialists with constantly updated experience.
Industrial tree removal
It is really dangerous to cut down a tall, thick and sprawling tree by yourself. It is no less unpredictable to work with an old and rotten giant, who can “treat” not only a healthy branch on the forehead, but also fall down entirely in any direction. Therefore, we are not talking about self-cutting here at all. Unless, of course, a person does not want to risk his life.
Are you from ?
Professional arborists from the SpilKursk.PRO company will help you safely cut down a tree!
For hazardous work, there are professionals who do it every day, have vast experience and will not hurt anyone. But even they work with climbing equipment, usually with an assistant, and stop any actions in case of sharp gusts of wind or its speed is more than 11 m / s. For each object, the most appropriate method of cutting is selected, taking into account safety.
Free felling saw cut
The object is cut down immediately. Beforehand, it is important to calculate the direction of the wind and its strength, the distribution of branches from the center of gravity, the presence of cracks or large holes. From the side of the fall, traditional 45 degrees, on the opposite - felling cut. The method is used when there are no power lines, houses and other obstacles to the felling nearby. After falling, the tree is sawn into pieces for disposal. The easiest and cheapest way, but for professionals.
Free-felling variant - sawing to railings. It is suitable if there are at least 2 trees in the direction of the intended fall, comparable in diameter and size to the saw cut object. Between them at a level close to horizontal ropes (“railing”) are pulled on the ground, which slow down the tree when it falls. A problem is possible - a tree that accelerates “in flight” tears the ropes. Experts calculate the distance to the tree, its mass, the length of the fall, the strength of the ropes, the feasibility of using a quickdraw from behind to slow down the fall, and other possible nuances.
Climbing rope "standard" with a diameter of 10-11 mm in a new condition withstands a breaking load of 2-3 tons. Over time, it wears off and becomes much weaker.
Using the natural slope of the trunk
The method is suitable for even trees with an average height of up to 4 meters, a trunk diameter near the ground up to several tens of centimeters, an inclination angle of 2-3 degrees - so that there is no chance of falling in the other direction.
Scheme of work:
- Sawing all branches up to the height of growth - before making cuts. It is important that in case of an accidental course of the trunk with a deviation of the branch, they do not interfere with bouncing to the side.
- Produce classic 45 degree fall cuts.
- Remove sawn wedge.
- Carry out a standard felling cut, leaving approximately 10% of the diameter of the cut out.
- Ropes are fixed at the top with special “big shot” slingshots, a line thrower or a stick with a hook.
- With ropes, a pole and wedges, they fell the trunk.
Recommended felling cut for strong trees - up to 50%, for sick and rotten trees - from 20 to 40% of the diameter. In the worst condition of the tree, the cut is made less so that the tree does not break before.
The height of the cut from the ground, depending on the further purpose of the stump:
- 70-100 cm, it can be a little higher - if the stump is uprooted, for the convenience of working with a winch.
- 30-50 cm - with further destruction of the stump with chemicals.
- Minimum possible - when the stump will be destroyed by a crusher.
If the tree is not clearly displaced, or the center of the displacement is difficult to determine, experts control the fall with wedges.
Guided cutting with guy
The method of destruction is suitable for a tree that can be completely felled into a selected area using a rope attached close to the top of the tree. To secure it, the rope with the load is thrown as high as possible onto wood. This is usually done with the help of a huge slingshot, which shoots loads with a thin braided line.
See also: How to legally cut down a tree.
Suitable for tall and mature trees with heavy branches or a large number of them, even a slight slope in the opposite direction. This creates difficulty in determining the direction of "leaving" at the time of saw cut. You can work with most trees, there would be opportunities for installing quickdraws and strong ropes.
Scheme of work:
- The crown is tied with a pole or an equipped climber, depending on the height of the tree.
- The rope is pulled tight by hand, winch or chain hoist (with rope backstop). First of all - side stretches.
- Make standard counter cuts.
- Felling cut in progress.
- A tree falls into a precisely defined region of space.
See what it looks like felling a tree with a quickdraw:
A good choice of actions for a tree in the park, forest and even on the site. Professional companies attract high-level specialists who calculate the level of tension, eliminate the risk of splitting the trunk and fall with unpredictable consequences.
Free throw swath
A method for cutting down a tree in pieces and dropping them down. It is chosen when a tall and thick tree cannot be felled freely, but there is free space under it for dumping sawn-off fragments.
- The arborist climbs the tree on gaffs (“claws” worn on the feet, with which the climber digs into the tree) and a girth, “along the way” cutting down all large parts of the branches to the very top, if conditions allow. Also he can "hang up" and lower.
- Before cutting down the top of a tree, the climber ties a rope to its top and throws it off to a partner.
- He pulls the rope in the direction of fall with the force of his hands or a chain hoist.
- The climber cuts off the top and finally throws it off.
- When descending, all the remains of branches and the trunk itself are cut down.
- When the arborist reaches a height of 2-2.5 m, the workers clear the free space below the trunk for him.
- The specialist descends and cuts the remains of the trunk into plates of the desired length.
A specialist works on a tree with two belays. Having worked one tier, he fixes the second insurance to a higher level. Only after that removes the mount from the lower tier. During the descent, the trunk is processed and cut an average of 2 m per tier. The stump is left no more than a third of the diameter high, if you work according to the standards of the Kursk region.
Hydraulic lift possible. Actions are performed in the same sequence, with mandatory insurance. If a sufficiently large and heavy tree is cut down, the ground below can be severely broken.
Cut in parts with curtain
The method is suitable when they do not know how to properly cut down a tree hanging over a fence, wires or a roof. When sawing, part of the branches that threaten important objects or buildings will be carefully lowered on the ropes. The rest of the cut will be thrown down in small fragments. A qualified assistant can lay down a shock-absorbing “pillow” on the ground from the branches, and then the falling parts of the trunk will not hit the ground / lawn so much. If space the bottom cannot be damaged - the tree will be removed with the descent not only of the branches, but also parts of the trunk on a rope.
The felling technology is the same as the free throw felling method. Next is the descent:
- A rope is pulled between the thickest branches, and a block is fixed to it.
- A tree specialist secures part of the branches or trunk with a rope.
- Cuts them down.
- At his command, assistants on the ground begin to smoothly lead the rope down, lowering the felled fragment.
This is the way to deal with all dangerous parts of the tree. As a result, the safety zone under the tree is reduced, since the fragments do not "blow up" the ground, but land in a precisely specified place. If the saw cut of a tree comes with aerial platforms, everything is done in the same way, including the fastening of the block.
It is desirable that at least two specialists work together. This reduces the operating time and makes it safer.
Expensive, but the safest way for the owner, balance holder or tenant of the site to delete the object. The best option is to cut down a large tree in a limited space where there are buildings, people and animals may suddenly suffer.
- A climber on gaff climbs a tree, cutting branches and lowering them on a rope.
- Attaches a carabiner with a rope for future hanging of sawn parts.
- An assistant fixes the same construction on a neighboring tree, but below.
- An arborist is tying a rope to a piece of wood to be cut.
- Leads the rope through the upper carabiner to the lower carabiner, where it is fixed.
- Cuts down the selected part of the tree, and it hangs on the rope.
- An assistant brings the felled part to the ground through the lower structure.
When two to 5 (for a large specimen) meters remain to the ground, the technology of work changes. A potential threat arises - the “pendulum” from the lowered part of the tree can damage the building, wires or residues the trunk on which the person is fixed. When the tree is rotten and split, the climber can fall from a sufficiently high height and with all the tools. Therefore, in order to avoid troubles and accidents, the remains are cut down along small particles and lowered manually or folded gently from above.
Hanging cut is not recommended in winter when the wood becomes brittle.
Sawing when the tree is completely hung
The method is especially suitable for emergency specimens that have fallen on buildings or adjacent plantings. Reminiscent of cutting with a guy, but requires a minimum of free space. Be sure to have a strong wood.
- The climber reaches the top of the tree being cut down and ties the rope so that it is about a fifth of the height above it, provided that the tree is not in danger. A rope is installed on the emergency trunk remotely - with the help of "big shot" slingshots, line thrower or pneumatic gun. The principle of operation of the most common slingshot is simple: a cord with a weight is thrown through the base branch, under the influence of which it falls down.
- Throws a rope over a "helping" tree and descends.
- The rope is stretched and fixed.
- The removed trunk is cut down and the old tree hangs on a nearby tree by a rope.
- The sawing of a hung tree starts from the bottom, with a shortening of 1-1.5 meters. The action continues until the top and bottom are balanced, to prevent the leaf cover from flipping down.
- The remains of the stem part are placed on the ground.
The method is time-consuming, suitable for a situation where it is not possible to lay down the entire specimen to be cut.
Use of vehicles
When an arborist cannot climb a tree, it is better to use the services of specialists who have additional automotive equipment: a tower or a crane.
This work is estimated to be cheaper, since it is easier and faster to work from a tower. But the “approach” of technology is not possible everywhere. More often, professional arborists with ropes are required, of which there are few. They work in dry weather without wind. It is better to call specialists in the first days of spring or late autumn, when the crown is the rarest and juices do not play in the trunk. All work is carried out in accordance with the instructions approved by Ministry of Labor and Social Protection of the Russian Federation.