How to cut up a large tree trunk
what's the best way to cut up a HUGE tree (already on the ground)
- #1
so i had a pine tree taken down last year and i would guess it's three to four feet in diameter at it's largest spots -
i've been eying it for a while and figure i should cut it up due to the shortage of log length in my area - so what's the best way to cut up a monster tree - do i come down the middle with my saw and then down the top to take pieces off? - i dont have any tools to actually move the thing
thxs
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- #2
Cutting a tree "down the center" or length wise is very hard. It is also not the best for your saw. I cut up a huge maple this past weekend. I cut it like any other log, cut as deep as I could on one side spun around to the other side cut as deep as I could then drove a wedge down to split the round off the log. It would help if you had a 20 or 22 inch bar on your saw. Just be careful not to get too deep and pinch your saw, if you see it start to pinch slide the wedge in above the saw. Now this is a little tricky because you don't want to hit the wedge on the way back out of the log. Also, I would recommend using a plastic shim. The other tip is to make sure your cutting very strait, the worst thing is to have to cut the same spot to and three times due to the cuts not lining up. If you cut the rounds to 10 to 12 inches you should be able to roll them and split them for better handling. That's what I would do, good luck, let us know how it goes. Take your time and be safe.
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- #3
Thanks for the advise - i do have a 24 inch bar for my saw and that's really a great idea about the wedge
i really don't think there's any way i could roll this log so maybe cut through it as far as i can and then drive a maul through the cuts
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a stove, two saws (a big one and a little one) , two splitters (a big one and a little one), and lots of firewood
- #4
Stevebass4 said:
.
.. - i dont have any tools to actually move the thing
thxs
Click to expand...
Well that is a large log...but Pine is pretty easy to cut once the limbs have been removed. And since you had the tree removed I take they also removed the limbs. Just start on one end and begin...don't worry about cutting threw the entire log at once. If you see the cut starting to bind..pullout. also shim up the undersides of the log to reduce pinching.
the important thing is NOT to gauge success on cutting whole rounds...it doesn't matter even if you have 10 or so partial cuts...sooner or later you will achieve a break through and with the aid of a lever be able to roll the log over. Before you know it'll all be cut. Good luck.
The worst thing that can happen is getting your saw binded up in a cut...so just keep an eye on that cut for any signs of closing in on the cut.
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- #5
Call these guys.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E9x8rBKC4BE
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- #6
if the tree is only 4' in diameter then a 24" bar will do the trick. just keep a nose sprocket grease gun handy and use a liberal amount of grease as cutting all the way to the tip of the bar gets the nose very hot. take your time it is not like the log is going to walk off on you.
as far as technique cut one side then you can then walk around and cut from the other side and it should be cut through
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- #7
"what’s the best way to cut up a HUGE tree (already on the ground)"
Franklin, MA- huh?
Tell me where it is and see how fast it gets cut up-LOL
While you're at it- where's your best fishing hole?
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- #8
Also something not mentioned you could possibly rent or borrow a larger saw???
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- #9
Adios Pantalones said:
"what’s the best way to cut up a HUGE tree (already on the ground)"
Franklin, MA- huh?
Tell me where it is and see how fast it gets cut up-LOL
While you're at it- where's your best fishing hole?Click to expand.
..
highland lake in Norfolk and the tree is about 500 yards from the entrance to the lake
i work in franklin and live in Norfolk
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a stove, two saws (a big one and a little one) , two splitters (a big one and a little one), and lots of firewood
- #10
I'd cut all but 3 or 4 limbs on one side and then use those limbs to roll it over. I've used a come-along to pull it over,too. 3 or 4 because sometimes they snap. Nice to have extras to cut off after.
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- #11
Stevebass4 said:
highland lake in Norfolk and the tree is about 500 yards from the entrance to the lake
i work in franklin and live in Norfolk
Click to expand.
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What are you doing on July 5th? I'll be headed back from the Fireworks show I shoot on the Cape on the 4th. If you want help I can buck it up with my 30" bar and bring along a couple of Pevees to turn it.
Will I see you at the Sharon Fireworks on the 3rd? :bug:
- #12
Adk Patroller - THANK YOU VERY MUCH for the offer!! regretfully i will be away for the weekend - i'm going to give it a shot this sunday to see if i can make any headway
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a stove, two saws (a big one and a little one) , two splitters (a big one and a little one), and lots of firewood
- #13
With the tree on the ground I start cutting the limbs off at thhe point where they are too small for fire wood, and clear away the brush. Then start at the top of the tree cutting fire wood lengths from limbs and trunk working down to the butt. This way the limbs hold the tree off the ground making for fast cutting. By the time you reach the butt much of the weight is gone making it easier to move the trunk to accomadate what ever cuts that need to be made there.
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- #14
dy-no-mite
I would recommend... standing it on end and carving it to look like a chair, and putting it on you front lawn.... May not fly in Franklin, but you will fit right in in Norfolk
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- #15
LOL- appreciate the invite but I actually have a bunch of pine and some oak down in my own yard that I have to make time for.
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- #16
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a stove, two saws (a big one and a little one) , two splitters (a big one and a little one), and lots of firewood
- #17
Hello, we have some big logs and we are just getting to old to lift them. So what I did was take a older chain and resharpened it to 12deg. Then if you lay the logs on their side they can be ripped easily. I cut with a friend and it does help to have some one keep the shoot on the saw from plugging up. You might want to give it a try. Just don't let your wife see the nice shavings that you get. I had to pick them up so she could spread them in the garden.
Don
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How to cut a large diameter tree on the ground with a 16" bar
- #1
Looks like I may be bucking a large oak that is laying on the ground. It's got to be at least 30"-36" diameter and probably 30' long....how do I approach this project? All I have is my saw, a couple small plastic wedges and a pry/crow bar. In my feable mind I'm thinking cut as far as I can from the top and hope I can roll it over to cut from the other side.....but, I'm fearful of the saw being pinched.
Any better approach to this? Or should I pass on this since my bar is only 16"?
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- #2
Its all relative. Your experience, creativity, saw power, etc. I could and would do it with the right saw (if that was all I had). However I know quite a few people that should not attempt it.
A man needs to know his limitations.
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- #3
Don't cut the first rounds out of the base. Cut what you can handle first as the trunk is thinner up top and it may be easier to handle reduced weight.
a 4" round piece in the middle after cutting will be a serious pain to break. Get a buddy with a bigger saw to help out on those cuts.
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- #4
I did a similar sized oak last year with a 16" bar. I'm no expert but what I did was make the top cuts first, going as deep as I could - keeping a close eye on the cut pulling out when I saw it starting to pinch. Worked one side of the log, then the other. Once that was done I used a crow bar at a point that I could get the end off the ground to cut off a section. Once the section was off I rolled it over to finish the cuts. Repeated until I finished the tree. Getting the crow bar in place and lifting the trunk was work - once it was off the ground I slid something (like a rock, branch or split) under it. It usually took a few steps to get it off far enough. Real hard to do working alone, having a partner would make it much easier.
Good luck
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- #5
Bob, you fear a pinched bar. As you are cutting, keep an eye on the kerf. If that space shows the slightest sign of starting to come together, jerk the saw out quickly. But I would simply cut as much as possible all the way on the log and then roll that sucker over to finish the cuts. A 16" bar should be okay for that size log. Rolling though might require a cant hook, which most everyone should own. They are a very handy tool.
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- #6
A floor jack (placed on plywood before you start bucking) or pinch point bar are nice to have for the bigguns.
Planning so that the tree balances with the trunk off the ground when possible is the best. Then you slice off rounds that fall rather than having to lift/roll it.
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- #7
Adios Pantalones said:
Don't cut the first rounds out of the base.
Cut what you can handle first as the trunk is thinner up top and it may be easier to handle reduced weight.
a 4" round piece in the middle after cutting will be a serious pain to break. Get a buddy with a bigger saw to help out on those cuts.
Click to expand...
I am trying to imagine cutting something 36" with a 16" bar. Like AP said there would be at least 4" (36"-(16"x2)) in the middle that you would not be able to reach. However, if you were able to cut the top of the log, then roll over and cut the other side, then you would need to cut a wedge out of the log at a min. of 4" deep to allow your saw blade into the middle and finish the cut. Try to be accurate with those initial cuts, it might be difficult to line them up so you end the same place you began.
Maybe the middle of the tree is hollow/rotten? Then it would be no problem.
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- #8
BTDT.
1. Get an old chain that you aren't afraid to send into the dirt.
2. Disclaimer that this requires cutting straight down through a log, that means that you are gonna need to be careful how you approach the log, because if you don't use the right technique you are gonna hit the log with the tip of your saw as you begin the cut. refer to the picture below for how to START the cut safely.
3. first step is to break the log into smaller manageable pieces. this could be 3 10ft pieces, or it may be 5 or 6 pieces. when possible, cut through points that are less than 32" so it doesn't waste wood.
4. refer to picture to see that you can use a smaller bar to get through a large log. pythagorean theorum you can determine that making a wedge shaped cut will give you two 16" sides and a 12" side (or whatever you need to be able to fit your saw in further) this makes a cut that is only 14.8" deep, but allows you to then get your saw into the cut to get the remaining few inches you need. it may be necessary to take a wedge from both sides or only one.
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- #9
A few thoughts: a 30' log 30" wide is not going to roll very easily.
whereever it is currently off the ground you should jam some splits or branches under there to keep the log from falling into the dirt.
start at the small end.
when you get to the point where you can't reach the middle from either side i would suggest finishing it with a hand saw or removing a couple of splits to gain access with your chainsaw.
bring a big truck because that is going to be a lot of wood!
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- #10
I really like Danno's idea too. .. especially if the log is too large/odd shaped to roll.
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- #11
Some good points made, thanx to all. This will probably be a true learning experience for me. I've cut some large trunks before but was lucky enough that they were mostly raised off the round...this one appears to be mostly on the ground and does have a few large branch cutoffs that may make rolling difficult. Once it stops raining I'll be sure to take my camera with me when the cutting begins.
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- #12
Just like my avatar over the top as far as you can get..3 pivot points!
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- #13
Smokinjay
I don't think this tree would be much of an issue with that 880/41 combo
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- #14
BASOD said:
Smokinjay
I don't think this tree would be much of an issue with that 880/41 comboClick to expand.
..
No There's no issue when That thing fires-up. Even spectators go running...lol
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880 traded/460/192mill
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x2-2000 Wood Stove and wood burning furnace (traded) (dhw).
Gf who gets it. priceless!
Skin that one up pilgrim, And I will get you another...
- #15
Danno77 said:
if you don't use the right technique you are gonna hit the log with the tip of your saw as you begin the cut
Click to expand.
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Why would that be a problem with the way you are cutting in the diagram? The danger zone for kickback is at the top corner of the bar tip, isn't it? Looks like the bar would only touch on the bottom corner of the bar in your drawing.
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- #16
Battenkiller said:
Danno77 said:
if you don't use the right technique you are gonna hit the log with the tip of your saw as you begin the cut
Click to expand.
..
Why would that be a problem with the way you are cutting in the diagram? The danger zone for kickback is at the top corner of the bar tip, isn't it? Looks like the bar would only touch on the bottom corner of the bar in your drawing.
Click to expand...
for a split second your bar will only be touching on the bottom, but as soon as your tip is an inch or two deep, then you have only a few inches of the bottom of the bar and the tip is at risk of really catching.
I, personally, only make sure I am a little more aware of my stance and potential danger zone if a kickback would occur, and make sure I'm running wide open and then cut away. It's important to know risky cuts just so you can be extra cautious, not to scare you completely away from doing them.
maybe this picture gets the idea across a little better.
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- #17
smokinjay said:
Just like my avatar over the top as far as you can get.
.3 pivot points!
Click to expand...
That's the way I was shown and have always done it. Lots of vids on YouTube of pros with obviously good technique always seem to do it that way, so it can't be bad. My little 011 only has a 14" bar, so I've experienced plenty of that kind of cutting. Never anything that big, but lots of stuff in the 18-24" range. Never had a problem except how slow my saw was. Of course, I always ran safety chain on that one, but you guys hipped me to full chisel, so me and the 357 are ready.
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- #18
Battenkiller said:
smokinjay said:
Just like my avatar over the top as far as you can get.
.3 pivot points!
Click to expand...
That's the way I was shown and have always done it. Lots of vids on YouTube of pros with obviously good technique always seem to do it that way, so it can't be bad. My little 011 only has a 14" bar, so I've experienced plenty of that kind of cutting. Never anything that big, but lots of stuff in the 18-24" range. Never had a problem except how slow my saw was. Of course, I always ran safety chain on that one, but you guys hipped me to full chisel, so me and the 357 are ready.
Click to expand...
pivot points are only good if you can get all the way around the log. right?
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- #19
Looks like that tomato sitting on a large round rock is a goner! :lol:
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- #20
CJRages said:
Looks like that tomato sitting on a large round rock is a goner! :lol:
Click to expand...
lol, I know you aren't mocking my amazing MS-Paint skills!
Forget photoshop, etc. I'm old-school.
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- #21
Get an 18" or 20" bar for your saw. Even if your saw isn't powerful enough to run it well, take your time. Get yourself plastic wedges. They will eliminate the pinching concern. Wedges are your friend.
As others said, start a the small end of the log and work your way down. When the logs get big, do as smokinjay says. When they get bigger, you can do as Danno says. Just be careful to start your bore cut with the lower quadrant of your bar. Start to cut like you would normally, then pull the tip of the saw to the middle of the log and rotate the handle of the saw up while applying modest pressure at the tip. While you are rotating the saw up, the tip should be starting to bore into the wood. Once the tip is in, you can rotate the saw to 90º and push straight in with no fear of kickback. You can also noodle the logs to take chunks off the sides.
- #22
How about noodling at the end of the log, and then blocking??
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- #23
CaddyUser said:
How about noodling at the end of the log, and then blocking??
Click to expand...
that's a good idea, too. I guess it depends on whether or not he can use 16" long splits. He'd only be able to noodle in 16" so that's all the longer he could make the pieces.
Come to think of it, I've never noodled with the saw buried. I've only noodled with a bit of the tip out and a good space for the noodles to come out at the saw. I'd be inclined to think that noodling would get a mess of noodles clogged in the saw if he's buried to the spikes.
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- #24
Danno77 said:
for a split second your bar will only be touching on the bottom, but as soon as your tip is an inch or two deep, then you have only a few inches of the bottom of the bar and the tip is at risk of really catching.
![]()
Click to expand...
I see what you are saying now, but I would never think of starting a cut that way. Good to point out to folks who might, however.
I went fishing with a couple of buddies this weekend. One of them brought along his 029 and it was pretty funny watching him use it like a hand saw... back and forth, and with a dull chain to boot. Took him about a minute to get through each cut of a 10" punky hemlock log, then right into the dirt and on to the next cut. :lol: No PPE either. He said he didn't need it because he was watching the bar very carefully (with his face right over the saw). All I could do was cringe and hope for the best. You know, you really can't say anything to a buddy in those circumstances because he won't listen. Just make sure I know where the keys to his Jeep were was the best I could do.
BTW nice drawings. How do you do them?
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- #25
Danno77 said:
CJRages said:
Looks like that tomato sitting on a large round rock is a goner! :lol:
Click to expand.
..
lol, I know you aren't mocking my amazing MS-Paint skills!
Forget photoshop, etc. I'm old-school.
Click to expand...
Ah, ah! I'm stuck with Photoshop. My kid bought it for me with his school discount, but won't take the time to teach me how to draw in it. He'd rather shake his head and laugh at the old man. I'm pretty good at photo fixes, but the brat's a wiz at drawing in it and he won't share. lol
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How to cut down a tall tree on the site: rules for removing large trees
Tree removal services: felling, felling and pruning
17 years
on top!
Place an order: 8 (985) 768-64-02 We will answer the phone from 10:00 to 20:00
Tall trees in our area are not a unique phenomenon: under favorable conditions, many species of central Russia grow to heights of 30, 40 or more meters. Increased attention to them is associated with the danger that they can pose to people and buildings in the event of their fall. Especially if the tree is emergency.
Why do they fall?
The first , which is also the main cause of the fall of trees, including tall ones, is a poor, weakened condition associated with diseases and any other damage to the trunk or root system. A healthy plant is able to withstand serious loads like heavy winds, for example.
The second reason is a large windage. Large and tall trees grow in conditions of fierce competition with each other for a place under the Sun. They quickly stretch upwards, and therefore their trunks are usually straight, without branches in the lower and middle parts. The crown, on the other hand, is formed closer to the top and becomes the very “sail” that “catches” the wind, provoking the fall of the trunk.
Accurate cutting of large trees requires a lot of time and patience.
April 2014
Photo: Kaleriya Lapshina
Scotch pine, widely distributed from China to the British Isles, is a good example of great windage. On the territory of the European part of Russia, it can be found everywhere. How can one not recall the paintings of I. I. Shishkin, especially his famous “Ship Grove”, which depicts tall, slender mast pines, with cone-shaped crowns crowning the very tops!
Another reason for the fall can be the root system. Norway spruce, typical of the northern regions of Europe, has a superficial root system that does not securely hold the plant in the ground. Along with a trunk height of several tens of meters, this leads to poor wind resistance.
They decided to cut down the tall pine tree near the glass fence, just in case.
April 2014
Photo: Kaleria Lapshina
What tree is considered tall?
Most of the territory of the Russian Federation is forests: coniferous, deciduous, mixed. They are formed by plants of different species. According to the existing classification, all woody plants in our country, including central Russia, are divided into 9 groups according to height. The first 4 groups are a variety of shrubs: low, high - from 1 to 5 meters.
Here, for example, include: lilac, sea buckthorn, viburnum, mountain ash and other similar plants known to all of us. Following them (in ascending order) are some types of maple, pine, apple, birch, acacia - these are already trees, but they are considered low and medium in height - from 6 to 20 meters. The remaining three groups are high and very high.
Thus, are considered high if they outgrow the mark of 20 meters . In the Central European part these include:
- some types of poplars (pyramidal, white, black),
- Norway spruce,
- Norway and Ash maples,
- aspen,
- English oak,
- common ash,
- gray alder,
- warty birch,
- silver and heart-leaved lindens (small-leaved),
- Scotch pine and some others.
For different breeds, height is a relative concept. For example, an apple tree that does not reach the mark of 20 m can be considered high, but only among apple trees. In this article, we are interested in really tall trees, since the difficulties that arise when working with them are associated precisely with the large absolute height of the trunk.
In the city, it is convenient and practical to cut plants from an aerial platform.
March 2014
Photo: Kaleria Lapshina
Where and in what cases does it need to be removed?
In itself, such a tree is not a problem. But if it is emergency, it can cause great damage when it falls. A fallen tree easily tears the wires and knocks down the poles on which they are stretched, rams the roofs and destroys the walls of buildings, breaks vehicles and blocks the roadway. Not to mention the threat to human health and life! Therefore, in the city, such plants must be removed if they grow:
- near overhead power lines,
- next to residential buildings,
- playgrounds,
- car parks, etc.
Large and dry trees can often be seen in summer cottages. Sometimes they hang over the house, risking falling at the slightest breath of wind. In addition, dry trees are fire hazardous. Standing tall plants, not necessarily dry, can also pose a threat.
How to cut down a tall tree?
If it is necessary to cut down a tall tree, the trunk of which is strong enough to support an adult person - in our case, an arborist equipped with a chainsaw and other necessary equipment - the method of felling the tree in parts is used. The specialist climbs the trunk, first removes all the branches and the top, and then cuts the trunk into separate logs, which he either throws down or gently lowers on a rope. Depending on customer requirements.
The pine tree in Obninsk turned out to be too tall for machinery. I had to call an arborist.
September 2013
Photo: Kaleriya Lapshina
It is difficult to work in holiday villages, where the territory of household plots is limited, as a rule, to six acres. Because only six acres can be located, in addition to a residential building, “a million more necessary and valuable” things. This includes flowerbeds, garden beds, and lawns with gazebos...
Therefore, the problem arises - how to cut down a tall tree on the site without damaging the owner's property, evenly distributed over the entire area? Under these conditions, all parts of a large tree: branches, fragments of the trunk - carefully descend after being removed on a rope. They are picked up below, thereby keeping the site safe and sound.
Thin tall trees
These cases need to be told separately. The work of removing them is often complicated by the inability of the arborist to climb them: the trunk can bend or, in general, break under the weight of a person. Therefore, an aerial platform is often used to fell such plants. If it is not possible to use it: the terrain does not allow, there are no entrances to the object, the neighboring growth is used. An additional rope is hung on them - a safety rope. In addition to all this, thin trees are sometimes felled entirely, under the root.
The thicker the tree trunk, the longer it takes to saw it.
September 2013
Photo: Kaleriya Lapshina
Difficulties and dangers
The dangers of removing tall trees are primarily related to their height. Falling from them can result in serious injury or death. Therefore, when working with large trees, the specialist first assesses their condition: healthy or emergency.
The threat (accident) is often hidden from view. The tree may be diseased, but the disease is seemingly asymptomatic, as it happens in humans. Only a specialist is able to accurately determine the condition of the plant and take into account all the risks. The life and health of a tree climber depends on the correct diagnosis.
Such a tree is also dangerous because the wind load on it is greater than on low ones. Even in good calm weather, the wind blows at high altitude. It swings the top like a pendulum, complicating the feller's work.
When cutting down a tall tree, all the actions of an arborist, even the simplest ones, are multiplied by the height - this is the main danger when working on such objects!
How do we do it?
Nuances of tree removal in the Moscow region
Remember - the work of an arborist is very dangerous, it requires skills, knowledge and experience.
We specialize in tree removal. We take on any orders: we can solve the problem if the branches are located directly above the house and need to be carefully cut, we can safely cut rotten trunks, remove trees that have fallen on buildings.
Read more
Thoughts are material!
Naturally, it all started with agreements and preliminary planning.
During the day, three teams at four sites cut down thirteen trees and cut dry branches from several pines!
Read more
All articles
Trade terms
Broken top of a tree
Can lead to sad consequences. When falling, be sure to hit the most valuable item in your area.
Read more
Arborist
An arborist is a professional who has the technical skills, gained through experience and appropriate training, including climbing, to oversee the treatment of trees and other woody plants in residential, commercial, and public landscapes.
More details
Call for more information:
8 (985) 768-64-02
Related services:
- removal of logging residues.
how to cut down a tree on a plot in parts?
Tree removal services: felling, felling and pruning
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Place an order: 8 (985) 768-64-02 We will answer the phone from 10:00 to 20:00
Before we talk about how to cut down a tree in parts correctly, let's decide in which cases it is dangerous to fell the whole tree, at the root. According to the instruction " on labor protection for a feller and a lumberjack ", the territory within a radius of 50 m from a tree is a danger zone. And all because when felling a tree from the root, even by an experienced feller, the sawn trunk can fall in any direction. For example, due to a sudden gust of wind or, albeit small, rot inside it.
The fibers weakened by rot in the "undersaw" - the part of the cut left untouched by the chainsaw - are torn before healthy ones and change the trajectory of the fall of the tree, regardless of the feller's calculation. It happens that, falling entirely, one tree knocks down another, and the radius of the affected area is greater than the height of the felled tree. Felling a tree in parts reduces the likely risks to a minimum.
The arborist cut down the tree carefully.
Photo: Igor Molchanov
Accurate removal of trees in parts can be done in different ways. And the more options an arborist knows, the easier it is for him to adjust the technology to a specific situation. However, the most simple and common is the following method.
The arborist, using special equipment (harness, steel spurs on the legs (gaffs in professional jargon), rope wraps, carabiners, descender and rope) climbs along the trunk. As he rises, he saws off branches and branches. Depending on the situation, the cut branches either freely fall down (if there is nothing under them), or gently descend on a rope. In the second case, a partner helps the arborist under the tree. And in general, it is safer to work together.
Basic arborist equipment: harness, gaffs (on the legs), harness (around the trunk), rope and a chainsaw.
Photo: Igor Molchanov.
The arborist can climb quite high up the trunk, depending on the strength of the tree. It is better to lower the sawn off crown on a rope. Otherwise, during the fall, the slightest breeze will carry it not at all where we would like.
The remaining post is sawn into logs from 30 - 40 centimeters to several meters long. The size depends on:
- From the area of free space under the tree.
- From the specific gravity of the wood: the larger it is, the shorter the logs should be. This makes it easier to throw them accurately.
From a height of 18-20 m, an experienced arborist confidently enters the area under a tree measuring just a meter by meter. True, at the same time, the partner must remove the fallen logs to the side. Then the next ones will not fly off from the previous ones by ricochet. If you throw logs on a pillow of sawn branches, then not a single dent will remain on the ground, paving stones or lawn!
The finer the arborist upstairs has to cut, the slower the work speed. It happens that, when cutting down a very thick or heavy tree in parts, you have to cut off thin “pancakes” from it or saw logs along the fibers right on the trunk.
Nothing heavy can be thrown on the paving stones under the oak. The arborist had to cut along the fibers almost "on weight". Photo: Ksenia Shuvalova. | The only way to safely cut down this poplar turned out to be "crumbling" it with "pancakes". Photo: Igor Molchanov. |
Before starting work, the following factors should be assessed.
- Wood condition. Dry or live? Are there any signs of an accident: tilt, rot, hollows, etc.? On the one hand, dry wood is lighter. On the other hand, the tree must be strong enough. It must withstand not only the weight of the arborist - an error compared to the weight of the tree - but also the dynamic loads that occur when lifting and sawing off at least the top of the head.
- Barrel diameter. The thicker it is, the shorter the blocks will be.
- Type of wood. For example, dense wood of oak or birch is much heavier than the same volume of pine or linden. And dry birch is more dangerous than dry pine. The birch bark does not pass water. The tree stands as if wrapped in polyethylene, and therefore the dried birch becomes rotten and brittle very quickly.
By the way, for the same reason, in order to save birch for firewood, it is better to chop the “stumps” right away, at least in half.
- Season. In winter, living trees shed water, wood becomes lighter. The ground below them freezes, and therefore can withstand a large load.
However, it is better to see once than to hear a hundred times! For example, after watching a two-minute video: “The profession is an arborist,” filmed about our work by Channel One for the Good Morning TV show.
Now you imagine the process of felling trees in parts. In no case do not try to cut a tree yourself, without having mastered the specialty of an industrial climber and feller! It is easier, safer and, ultimately, cheaper to turn to specialists. You can find prices for this service here.
Nuances of tree removal in the Moscow region
Remember - the work of an arborist is very dangerous, it requires skills, knowledge and experience.
We specialize in tree removal. We take on any orders: we can solve the problem if the branches are located directly above the house and need to be carefully cut, we can safely cut rotten trunks, remove trees that have fallen on buildings.
Read more
Thoughts are material!
Naturally, it all started with agreements and preliminary planning.
During the day, three teams at four sites cut down thirteen trees and cut dry branches from several pines!
Read more
All articles
Trade terms
Broken top of a tree
Can lead to sad consequences. When falling, be sure to hit the most valuable item in your area.
Read more
Arborist
An arborist is a professional who has the technical skills, gained through experience and appropriate training, including climbing, to oversee the treatment of trees and other woody plants in residential, commercial, and public landscapes.