How to feed a red eyed tree frog

Red Eyed Tree Frog Care

by Erica Mede, CVT

Natural History

These arboreal frogs with bright red eyes, green bodies, blue limbs, and orange toes are one of the most popular frogs in the pet trade for obvious reasons but colors do vary based on origins.  These stunning nocturnal frogs are native to the rainforests of the Pacific and Atlantic lowlands and foothills of Central America and have become the poster child for the rainforest!  Most of the animals in the pet trade are exported through Nicaragua.  The calls from the males are heard echoing through the rainforest and homes of keepers through May and December.  These 2-3 inch long frogs (females are generally the larger of the species) live 4-10 years.  


Red eyed tree frogs are insectivores and tend to become obese with over feeding like most frogs.  Adults are frequently fed earth worms, crickets, roaches, horn worms, and silk worms.  Tree frogs under 3 inches should be fed every day to every other day.  Frogs over 3 inches in length should be fed every 2-3 days. 

Placing the food in a dish or on a flat rock is an appropriate option.  Feeding with forceps is a very popular method as well.  Calcium supplementation should be added to the food weekly and a multivitamin supplement every 2 weeks.


These frogs can be housed in pairs or small groups of females with one males.  A 10 gallon aquarium or equivalent sized container such as a Sterilite or Rubbermaid bin is generally acceptable for two adults.  These are arboreal frogs and vertical space is important to consider.  Many keepers find that using non-conventional enclosure such as plastic storage boxes is not only easier to maneuver in their homes but also less stressful for the animal due to the opaque nature of the sides.  Juveniles can easily be maintained in a Critter Keeper style enclosure, a 2. 5 gallon aquarium, or similar sized plastic container.


Paper towel is by far the easiest to clean and cheapest substrate to use.  However, it must be changed daily and doesn’t offer any aesthetics.  Top soil it a common substrate providing a naturalistic look to the enclosure.  Soil must be spot cleaned daily and completely changed out every 2 weeks to prevent bacteria and fungus build-up.  Moistened terry cloth towels are also utilized for substrate since they can be easily changed out.  However, a few backups will be needed and the towels must be washed and dried WITHOUT fabric softener preferably.  The substrate needs to be moistened at all times with dechlorinated water.  Tap water that has been dechlorinated chemically or “aged” is perfectly fine.  Avoid distilled water due to the lack of minerals in the water.


Red eyed tree frogs can be easily maintained in 76-82°F ambient temperatures.  At night, the temperature can drop as low as 72°F.  Heating the enclosure is easily achieved using under tank heaters mounted on the side of the tank.  Heat cable, heat tape, and other methods of heating can be utilized as well.  Basking lights are contraindicated.  The temperature should be maintained with the use of a thermostat and monitored with a thermometer at the level of the substrate.  Sphagnum moss is an excellent way to keep frogs moist but care must be taken that it is changed frequently and is in a place where the frog will not accidentally ingest it attempting to eat.


Humidity is extremely important to the health of tree frogs.  The humidity in the enclosure should be maintained around 60-80%.  This is easily checked with a hygrometer and maintained with a hydrostat.  Frequent misting, moistening of the substrate, large water bowls, and foggers can all be used to maintain higher levels of humidity.


Tree frogs do not have many lighting requirements.  They require a light cycle of 10 hours of light and 14 of darkness.  An ultraviolet (UVB) light such as a ReptiGlo or a ReptiSun 5.0 can be utilized and is recommended.


Water bowls should be kept shallow to prevent accidental drowning as these frogs are extremely poor swimmers.  The water ideally should only be high enough for the frog to submerge itself if desired.  Water should be changed at least daily and only clean, dechlorinated water should be used.  Never use distilled water as this will cause health problems in frogs! Fake foliage such as silk leaves can be used without problems and pose the benefit of being easily cleaned.  Branches should be set in a way that allows climbing for these arboreal frogs.  Large pieces of cork bark provide excellent hiding places that help Red Eyed tree frogs feel more secure.

Sources and Suggested Reading

  • Frogs and Toads, Devin Edmonds
  • Frogs, Toads, and Treefrogs, Philip Purser

If you have any questions, please feel free to call us at 847-329-8709.

Red Eyed Tree Frog Care (Complete Habitat, Diet, & Care Guide)

Red eyed tree frogs are one of the most beautiful and colorful amphibians in the world.

Their typical coloration pattern in captivity includes a bright green body with darker blue sides that are mottled with vertically oriented, white patterns.

If one thing is for certain, it’s that the red eyed tree frog is a true eye catcher!

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About Red Eyed Tree Frogs

The name “red eyed tree frog” is derived from their bright red (almost crimson) eyes. In the wild, these tree frog use their unique eye and body coloration patterns to scare away predators and get out of sticky situations.

As long as you’re careful and informed, red eyed tree frogs generally don’t require anything too complex when it comes to their care.

That being said, new frog owner should do everything they can to provide their frog with basic requirements – these include a suitable substrate, a drainage layer at the bottom of the terrarium, and (of course) steady portions of water and food.

Throughout this complete guide, we will cover everything you need to know about red eyed tree frog care.

By the end, you should be able to set up the perfect red eyed tree frog habitat and care for your new pet.

Natural Habitat

Red eyed tree frogs generally live in lowland rainforests that are close to some kind of water course (river, lake, etc.).  As a “arboreal amphibian,” the red-eyed tree frog tends to dwell in trees and tall leafy plants. 

They spend much of the tadpole stage of their life in the water, only migrating to the trees as they age and mature.


Provided that they’re given proper care, red eyed tree frogs usually have a captive lifespan of at least 8 years (though it is possible for some to live all the way to 12).  10 years seems to be the average life span of red eyed tree frogs.


A fully grown red eyed tree frog will usually measure between 2 and 3 inches (although size may vary).

Females are generally larger than males, especially once they hit breeding age

Setting up a Red Eyed Tree Frog Habitat

There are quite a few things that you need to consider when putting together a red eyed tree frog habitat.

The most important thing to remember is that red eyed tree frogs are most comfortable when their setup closely resembles their natural environment (makes sense, right?).

This may sound tough, but we will cover everything you need to know in this section.

A few of the most important aspect to consider are tank size, temperature, materials, and substrate. Here is a more in depth look at creating a red eyed tree frog setup:

The Vivarium

Red eyed tree frogs are pretty small – as a result, people tend to cram them into enclosures that are way too small for their needs.

At minimum, one adult tree frog should be kept in a terrarium at least 15-20 gallons in size.

Since red eyed tree frogs naturally live in rain forest canopies, they prefer a habitat that has more height than width.

Our habitat of choice for red eyed tree frogs is the 18 x 18 x 24 Exo Terra Terrarium. It offers great height (which tree frogs love) and is actually large enough to house a second red eyed tree frog (in case you want to get your frog a friend in the future).

If you want to go with a cheaper option, 40 gallon breeder tanks can usually be found for pretty cheap at Petsmart (during their $1 per gallon sales) and can house 3-4 frogs.


Choosing a substrate for your habitat is generally pretty simple.

A few of the best red eyed tree frog substrates include moist paper towels (we will discuss this later), Zoo Med Eco Earth, orchid bark, and coco coir.

A lot of red eyed tree frog owners (especially beginners) simply use moist paper towels are their substrate of choice. But why? Here are a few reasons

  • Cheap: Paper towels are extremely affordable compared to other types of substrate
  • Easy to clean/replace: Moist paper towels can be collected and replaces in just a few minutes
  • Safe: Since there are no loose pieces, paper towels pose no impaction risk

Paper towels have one obvious downside – they definitely don’t look the best. If you’re looking for something more natural, I’d recommend going with Zoo Med Eco Earth.

This shredded coconut fiber substrate is 100% natural and helps maintain the humidity in your terrarium. Natural substrates are also preferable if you plan to keep live plants in your terrarium.

Overall, I’d recommend starting out with paper towels in your red eyed tree frog habitat (and switching to a natural substrate once you feel more comfortable).

Filling the Tank

Adding plants, branches, vines, and logs to your red eyed tree frog’s habitat is very important in helping it feel comfortable and secure.

As tree-dwelling animals, tree frogs really appreciate being able to climb throughout their enclosure.

Broad leaf plants generally work best for red eyed tree frogs. Here are a few species that we recommend:

  • Alocasia
  • Philodendron
  • Anthurium
  • Birdsnest
  • Chlorophytum

Keep in mind – these are live plants, so they will need some sort of light to keep them healthy.

If you would rather go with fake plants that don’t require any upkeep, Exo Terra artificial plants are pretty awesome. The Exo Terra Mardarin, Pandanus, Phyllo, are Scindapsus are personal favorites.


Exo Terra Plastic Terrarium Plant, Large, Mandarin

  • Extremely realistic replicas of real plants
  • Creates natural hiding spots for reptiles and amphibians
  • Large, hanging plastic plant

When it comes to branches, bamboo, cork bark, and driftwood all make excellent choices (either real or fake) for your frog to climb on.

When placing the branches, make sure they’re relatively high up in the enclosure so that your tree frog feels as though it’s climbing (as it might in its natural habitat).

Make sure the branches are secure so that your frog won’t fall mid-climb!

Artificial vines are another awesome addition – you can hand these around your vivarium to create an tropical oasis for your frog!

Red Eyed Tree Frog Diet and Hydration

Feeding you tree frog the proper types of food is extremely important for long term health.

Unfortunately, it can be a bit more complicated than just throwing in a few crickets every now and then.

Here is everything you need to know about red eyed tree frog diet, hydration, and supplementation:


Insects make up the vast majority of the red eyed tree frog’s diet. Here are a few types of insect that work well for regular feeders:

  • Crickets (main staple)
  • Silkworms (occasionally)
  • Hornworms (occasionally)
  • Dubia Roaches (occasionally)

Crickets will most likely be the main staple for your red eyed tree frog. They are cheap, readily available, and suitable for tree frogs of all ages. Feed each frog 3-6 crickets every 2-3 days.

It is very important that you “gut-load” your crickets about 24 hours before feeding them to your tree frogs.

Gut-loading refers to the practice of feeding your crickets beneficial foods before they are eaten by your frogs.

But what exactly should your crickets be munching down on?

It is recommended that you feed your crickets a mixture of fresh salad, carrots, veggies, and some sort of Vitamin D3 or calcium supplement (we will discuss this soon with our recommendation).

Red eyed tree frogs generally don’t touch greens by themselves – so feeding the crickets greens before they’re eaten by your frog is a great way to introduce nutrients to your frog’s diet.

Diet Supplementation

Supplementing your red eyed tree frog’s diet with Vitamin D3, calcium, and multivitamin supplements is a great way to keep your pet healthy.

We recommend supplementing your tree frog’s diet with a mix of Repashy Calcium Plus, Repti Cal with D3, and Rep-Cal Herptivite.

One way of getting supplements into your frog’s diet is by dusting its crickets.

Before feeding time, give your crickets a light mist with a spray gun. Next, place them in small plastic/paper bag and sprinkle some calcium powder on top. Shake the bag around (gently) until the crickets look adequately coated.

Another way of introducing calcium into your frog’s diet is by gut-loading crickets with the calcium/multivitamin powder.

Simply sprinkle some power on whatever you decide to feed your crickets (veggies, salad, etc) and then feed them to your frog.

Here is a sample feeding schedule for your red eyed tree frog:

  • Crickets dusted with Herptivite – one time per week
  • Crickets dusted with calcium/D3 – one time per week
  • Plain crickets without any dusting: one time per week

For juvenile tree frogs, we recommend that you dust their insects at every feeding – they need all the nutrients they can get!


Tree frogs stay hydrated by drinking and absorbing moisture through their skin. The best way to keep your frog hydrated is by keeping a large, shallow water dish in their habitat. The dish should be wide enough that your frog can fit inside comfortably.

In addition, the water should be shallow enough that your tree frog can rest inside comfortably without having to swim.

A good rule of thumb is that the water should be no higher than the frog’s mouth when resting.

The water dish should be washed and refilled on a daily basis.

It is also very important that you only use dechlorinated water in your tree frog habitat – both for the water bowl and for mistings.

Tap water should be avoided as it often contains chlorine and other chemicals that are bad for tree frogs. A gallon jug of bottled water will go a long way.

Lighting and Heating

When setting up a read eyed tree frog habitat, you’ll want top make sure you don’t forget the lighting and heating elements. These are important to recreate the light and warmth they would experience in their native rainforests.

Here is everything you’ll need to know about red eyed tree frog lighting and heating

Red Eyed Tree Frog Lighting

A lot of red eyed tree frog owners have recently started advocating the use of UVB bulbs in their frog enclosures.

UVB is important for tree frogs because it helps with the synthesis of Vitamin D3 (with is responsible for calcium absorption). Without UVB light, tree frogs are susceptible to Metabolic Bone Disease.

The best UVB light for red eyes tree frogs is the Zoo Med ReptiSun 5.0 T5. Tree frogs don’t need a ton of UVB light, so even a small bulb should work just fine. Also, make sure to provide them with a lot of shade.


Zoo Med Reptisun 5.0 T5-Ho Uvb Fluorescent Lamp - 24 w - 22"

  • Eliminates the risk of vitamin D3 overdose from synthetic sources
  • Increases appetite and physical activity, while helping to induce reproductive behaviors
  • Safe and beneficial for use with all types of reptiles, snakes, turtles, tortoises and amphibians...

In addition to a UVB bulb, you’ll also want to add some sort of “heat” lamp to one side of the terrarium for additional warmth (I say “heat” because red eyed tree frogs really don’t like it too warm or bright).

A 6500K LED bulb is perfect for red eyed tree frogs and will also help a ton if you plan to keep live plants.

If the ambient temperature in you red eyed tree frog’s enclosure fall below the optimal levels which we will discuss in the next section), you may want to invest in a ceramic heat emitter.

CHEs heat your tank without the use of any visible light, so they’re perfect for daytime and nighttime use alike (since they don’t upset your frog’s sleeping patterns). The Fluker’s Ceramic Heat Emitter is a perfect option.

Temperature Requirements

Digital thermometers are recommended for accurate temperature readings (since dial thermometers tend to be pretty inaccurate.

A 2-in-1 thermometer/hygrometer is a great all in one solution to take care of humidity and temperature readings together.

During daytime hours, ambient temperatures should site somewhere between 75 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

Slightly cooler nighttime temperatures are fine as long as it doesn’t fall below 70 degrees. If night time temperates fall below 70°F, invest in a ceramic heat emitter (as we discussed in the lighting section).


Humidity is especially important for red eyed tree frogs. Native to rainforests throughout Central America, humidity is essential for their health and comfort.

It is also important to ensure that the humidity of your tank stays within the desired range. In this section we will talk about what humidity levels you should aim for and how to achieve these.

Humidity Requirements

An important part of perfecting your red eyed tree frog habitat is knowing how to read humidity levels. Luckily, this can be easily done with a digital hygrometer. Stay away from dial hygrometers as they tend to be very inaccurate.

The optimal red eyed tree frog humidity level should sit anywhere between 70-80%. The best way to raise the humidity level in your setup is through simply mistings. Mist the tank twice a day with purified water until humidity levels reach the desired percentage.

Make sure to mist all of the enclosure’s decorations and branches, as red eyed tree frogs get most of their water by licking foliage and sticks.

Controlling your tanks humidity

Mistings should take place twice per day – once in the morning and once in the afternoon. For larger tanks, you might need to mist another few times throughout the day.

This can be done with a simple spray bottle, although there are also more advanced fogging systems on the market. If you decide to use a spray bottle, make sure that it is brand new and was never used for any cleaning solutions.

Once again, only mist your red eyed tree frog setup with purified bottled water. If you want to go a more advanced route, the Exo Terra Monsoon RS400 Rainfall System is a great option.

Tips and Tricks

Here are a few important tips and tricks regarding red eyed tree frog care:

Keeping your tank clean

Cleaning your red eyed tree frog setup on a regular basis is very important. Any waste that gathers on the bottoms should be removed as soon as possible.

Mold tends to grow quickly in humid environments, so wiping down your tree frog’s enclosure will really help keep it safe.

If you’re using a natural substrate (such as Zoo Med Eco Earth), it will most likely need to be replaced every few months.

Once again, watch closely for any mold growth, especially in substrates.

If you’re using any rocks in your terrarium, remove them occasionally for a good cleaning. Rocks and branches can be baked at 350°F for sterilization purposes.

One of the leading causes of death in red eyed tree frogs is something called “Red Leg Disease”, which occurs mostly from unsanitary habitat conditions.

As you can see, cleaning your frog’s habitat is not just for aesthetic reasons – it is also crucial to the safety of your pet.

Safe Feeding Practices

Adult red eyed tree frogs are perfectly fine eating full sized crickets. That being said, babies will most likely need smaller crickets for safe feeding. Crickets under 1/4 inch long should work well.

A general rule for sizing crickets is that they should be no wider than the distance between your frog’s eyes.


Unsurprisingly, red eyed tree frogs are not huge fans of being handles – most frogs aren’t.

While they can be handled without problem for a few minutes, red eyed tree frogs are too delicate to be handled regularly or for long periods of time. If you want something that you can hold/play with all the time, tree frogs may not be for you.

If you do decide to hold your frog, make sure you thoroughly rinse your hands before contact.

Tree frogs can absorb toxins and other harmful substances through their skin, so make sure your hand are clean as can be.

Other Resources

If you suspect that your frog is sick (or have any specific care questions), take him/her to the vet.

Although we do our best to help out all frog owners, sometimes specialized care is needed. Good luck with your new red eyed tree frog!

Last update on 2022-10-12 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Keeping red-eyed tree frog, care terrarium substrate temperature humidity water red-eyed tree frog, feeding vitamins behavior care breeding stimulation of reproduction diseases photo

Red-eyed tree frogs (Agalychnis callidryas) are very popular among amphibian lovers. These are unusually beautiful frogs and they are easy to keep. For maintenance, you will need a vertical terrarium or paludarium with a size of 80 liters or more (for a pair) with a substrate of coconut fiber or soil with a top layer of live moss. These frogs do not like bright light, especially white lights, so LB fluorescent lamps are used for lighting at night.

Red-eyed tree frog terrarium

Type : vertical terrarium, topped with a mesh cover or paludarium.
Dimensions : from 80 l (for a pair of adult tree frogs), at least 60x30x40 cm. which creates conditions for the development of pathogenic bacteria). If soil is used as a substrate, then its thickness should be 10-15 cm.

Cleaning/cleaning : The terrarium is inspected and cleaned every day. Once every 2-3 weeks, a complete cleaning and disinfection of all decor items is carried out.
Temperature : day - 24-26°C, night - 20-22°C.
Heating : with heating mat with thermostat.
Lighting : Red-eyed tree frogs do not like bright lights, especially white lights. Since these are nocturnal animals, LB fluorescent lamps are used for lighting at night.
Humidity : not less than 75%. One to three times a day, plants and the substrate are sprayed with fresh water.
Plants : The terrarium should contain many live plants, such as non-thorny bromeliads, creepers, tropical ferns, philodendrons and epipremnums.
Pond : a bowl of water (5-7 cm deep) where tree frogs will bathe. Water is changed every day.
Decoration : in addition to plants, driftwood, branches, creepers, stones, waterfalls, hollow tubes for climbing are placed in the terrarium. Make sure that decor items are not with sharp edges. The background of the back wall is made dark.

Feeding the red-eyed tree frog

You can feed : any soft invertebrates that will fit in the mouth of the red-eyed tree frog: (cockroaches, crickets, fruit flies, flies, beetles and their larvae, earthworms, wax moth larvae, small silkworms, springtails, locusts , night butterflies). Adults can eat newborn mice, small reptiles and amphibians.
Frogs are fed at night, the food is placed on a saucer.
Feeding frequency : adults - 3-6 insects every two to three days, young (growing) - every day.
Water : spring or bottled, changed every day.
Mineral supplement/vitamin : For adult insect frogs sprinkle with calcium and vitamins every 2-4 feedings, for young insects 2-3 times a week.

Compatibility / Behavior

Compatibility : You can keep up to five red-eyed tree frogs in one terrarium.
Behavior : Males are not aggressive except during the breeding season.

Related article Red-eyed tree frog (Agalychnis callidryas)

Breeding red-eyed tree frog

Breeding : difficult, often requires human chorionic gonadotropin for stimulation.
Preparation : to stimulate reproduction, an artificial winter is arranged, with an increase in humidity to 70-90% and a decrease in temperature to 21-23°C. After 1-2 months, the temperature begins to gradually rise. The male and female are moved to a terrarium. Amplexus can occur as early as 2-3 days.
Adjustable terrarium : the terrarium is divided into two halves: water (a reservoir up to 13 cm deep with an internal filter, there must be a gentle exit from the reservoir to land) and land (with a large number of living plants hanging over the water). Water temperature 25.5-26.7°C. Since the tadpoles of the red-eyed tree frog are carnivorous, they are sorted as they grow, kept individually or in small groups.

Diseases of the red-eyed tree frog

Diseases : all new amphibians must be quarantined for 20-30 days.
Predisposition: bacterial infections caused by oodiniums.
Gray dots appear on the tree frog's body in case of oodinium damage. In this case, the tree frog is placed in distilled water for a while, and the terrarium is washed and disinfected. If this does not help, the tree frog is bathed in weak chamomile tea for an hour.
Red-eyed tree frogs must be examined for various injuries and skin lesions. If they are found, they are treated with a solution of dioxidine and sprinkled with powdered streptocide.
Major diseases see here. amphibian diseases.

Related article Red-eyed tree frog (Agalychnis callidryas)

Notes : It is advisable to buy captive-bred red-eyed tree frogs.
Do not buy frogs that are less than two cm long.
The skin of red-eyed tree frogs is very sensitive, so it is not advisable to take them in hand.

Tags: amphibians, tailless amphibians, keeping amphibians, tree frogs, red-eyed tree frog

Tree frog as a pet: keeping tree frogs

Tree frogs are still not often found as pets, although residents of southern Russia and other warmer countries have the opportunity to contemplate them in nature. Tree frogs, they are tree frogs, tree frogs or tree frogs differ from the usual Russian forest frog in their phenomenal ability to climb any surface, even glass! In the wild, they live in trees, and many species do not even descend to the earth teeming with dangerous predators all their lives.

The red-eyed tree frog is somewhat similar to the orange-footed phyllomedusa, but it is less common in the terrariums of amphibian enthusiasts.

Both of these species, like other species of the genera Phyllomedusa and Red-eyed tree frog, are brightly colored only in places that can be hidden. They are active, like all tree frogs, at night, so their bright colors are not visible to predators. But in the daytime, if a tree frog showed its, for example, bright paws, this serves as a signal to the predator that the frog is poisonous. But during the day, tree frogs usually sleep, and for sleeping they “attach” themselves to a leaf and fold their paws so that the sides and fingers are not visible, you can only see a green back, which merges in color with the leaves. Bright eyes are closed for centuries and also do not attract the attention of a predator.

Tree frogs vary greatly in size. The smallest is Hyla emrichi, its length is only 1.7-1.8 cm, and Hyla dolichopsis reaches a length of 12 cm!

Lifestyle of tree frogs

Most tree frogs live in tropical forests. In Russia, there are only two species - the common tree frog (wood tree) and the Far Eastern tree frog. They usually live in forests, on trees, respectively, tree frogs climb remarkably and on their fingers they have clinging (“sucking”) discs that allow tree frogs to climb vertical surfaces, including glass. Many lymphatic vessels lie in these discs, and mucous glands are located on the surface. Attachment to vertical surfaces also occurs with the help of skin on the belly and throat.

Depending on the color of the environment, tree frogs, like chameleons, can change skin color. Basically, they are painted in different shades of green, which allows them to mimic the environment. But, as mentioned above, some tree frogs are very brightly colored, as well as an interesting color in, for example, the harlequin tree frog (Phrynohyas resinifictrix) (black and white color) and the clown tree tree (Hyla versicolor) (brown with oblong white or yellow spots) .

Not all tree frogs have color as a defense against predators. For example, Gesleri tree frog (Hyla giesleri) disguises itself as a lichen. Geographical tree frog (N. geographica) camouflages itself as a dry leaf - it clings to the soil, closes its eyes and its skin and color make it look like a leaf.

No less interesting are the vocal data of tree frogs - not only males, but also females croak in them, although the latter, of course, are quieter than males. However, not all types of tree frogs croak. For example, the singing of Australian tree frogs is more like some kind of bleating, while the whistling tree frog from North America whistles.

Tree frogs are nocturnal: they are active mainly at night, feed and sing in the dark. Tree frogs are excellent jumpers, even the smallest amphibian can jump 70 cm in length!

Tree frogs are predators, they eat everything living that fits into their mouth, be it a butterfly, a cockroach, a cricket, or even a chick or a small rodent. They can catch prey with their tongue, and push large food into their mouths with their front paws.

The biology of tree frogs is extremely diverse, for example the golden tree frog (Hyla aurea) does not climb vertical surfaces and prefers to sit in water. The California tree frog (Hyla californiae) and the Sonoran tree frog (Hyla eximia), which live in Mexico, also prefer life in the water, rather than on trees. Some tree frogs prefer open spaces to forests, such as the pearl tree frog (Hyla albomarginata), which lives in South America, and is also remarkable for its bird-like voice and interesting coloration.

All tree frogs are more or less poisonous. So, if it gets into the mouth or into the eyes, the secret of the skin glands of the Cuban tree frog causes a burning sensation. Although, in general, the poison of tree frogs is not dangerous for people, you still need to wash your hands after communicating with them. By the way, tree frogs do not mind sitting in a person's arms.

Tree frogs need water to reproduce, although the amount of it does not always matter - they can spawn even in a small amount of water. And, for example, the Brazilian tree frog (Hyla resinifictrix) smears the hollow with resin. Banana tree frog (Hyla nebulosa) is not called so because it likes to eat bananas; she lays her eggs in frothy clumps around the edges of a banana leaf. Geldi tree frog (Flectonotus goeldii) carries eggs on its back. Marsupial tree frogs (genus Gastrotheca), as their name implies, have a bag on their back, where they hatch eggs until metamorphosis.

Tree frogs live for a long time, up to twenty years they can please their master. Of course, for a long life, pets need to provide good conditions.

Keeping a tree frog in a terrarium

For a comfortable life, tree frogs need a vertical terrarium, the larger the tree frog, the larger the size of the dwelling.

For several Australian tree frogs, the terrarium should be at least 50 liters, and for a pair, for example, red-eyed tree frogs, at least 30 liters. The terrarium must be covered with a mesh cover.

Suitable substrate is coconut fiber or paper towels. And it is best to keep tree frogs in live terrariums with soil from a soil mixture and live plants. In this case, it is recommended to put a drainage layer on the bottom of the terrarium - 4-5 centimeters, and on it the ground with a layer of 7-10 cm. plant a dwarf monstera, ivy, with cindapsus, medium-sized varieties of aglaonem, tradescantia, medium-sized ferns and philodendrons. Plants are planted both in pots and directly in the soil mixture - tree frogs do not break them and do not eat them.

You can put a thick layer of sphagnum moss on the ground - tree frogs dig in there with pleasure.

Snags must be placed in the terrarium - tree frogs will climb on them.

The range of temperatures comfortable for tree frogs is 23-28° C. An incandescent lamp of 20-40 W is used for local heating. A Repti-Glo 2.0 fluorescent lamp will not be superfluous either.

A pond is an indispensable attribute in a terrarium with tree frogs. They spend most of the night and some of the day here. It is convenient to use a ceramic container as a reservoir. If it is too deep, you can put some gravel on the bottom, and let a few bushes of pistia or other aquatic plants float on the surface. The water in it is changed daily.

The terrarium and the plants in it must be sprayed daily. You should also shed the soil as needed so that it is always slightly damp.

Glasses should be wiped every day because tree frogs like to climb on glass. Inside the terrarium, the glass should only be wiped with a clean cloth without detergents, otherwise the tree frogs may be poisoned.

Feeding tree frogs

You need to feed young tree frogs daily, adults every other day or once every two days - the main thing is to make sure that adult tree frogs do not overeat, and young ones do not become exhausted - this is clearly visible in the appearance of tree frogs.

Crickets and large cockroaches are suitable food for tree frogs. You can feed with tweezers, or even with fingers - tree frogs quickly get used to hands and fearlessly take food from them. You can also feed from a feeder, but if you keep several adult tree frogs, they may quarrel over the order of approach to it and someone may remain hungry. It's just as interesting to just throw live crickets into a terrarium and watch the tree frogs hunt - sneak up on their prey and jump sharply. They rarely miss.

Once a week it is recommended to give insects sprinkled with mineral food for reptiles and amphibians.

Joint housing

Tree frogs can be kept together with other animals, as long as they have similar requirements for keeping, and the size does not allow them to eat or injure each other. You can also keep them with such lizards as large mabuis, white-lipped anoles. Since tree frogs are active mainly at night, and anoles during the day, the terrarium is always interesting to watch.

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