How to fell a tree leaning the wrong way


How to Fell a Leaning Tree [Tips for Against and With the Lean]

In order to cut down a leaning tree, extra precautions must be taken. Directing the fall of a leaning tree to prevent dangerous breakages requires patience and taking the right steps to control the tree’s fall.

  • Felling Against the Lean: Use felling wedges to correct the lean when felling.
  • Felling with the Lean: Use a chainsaw to make special bore cuts, to prevent dangerous breakage and kickback during felling.

Felling large trees near houses, as well as felling smaller trees (10 inches diameter or less) also requires specialized steps, precautions, and orders of operation. It’s key to follow these processes in order to protect yourself, as well any structures, equipment, or other people in the felling area.

Table of Contents

How to Get a Leaning Tree to Fall Where You Want

A leaning tree will naturally want to fall in the direction of the lean when cut. This may not be desirable as the tree may be leaning toward your house, fences, or other trees that you don’t want to be damaged. To control the direction a leaning tree falls when cut, do the following:

  • Cut branches off large trees prior to felling.
  • Use felling wedges to correct tree lean.
  • Contact an arborist to safely fell trees with heavy lean that cannot be corrected with wedges.

Cutting the branches off a large leaning tree prior to felling the trunk can help reduce weight and leverage, making it easier to correct the lean of the tree with felling wedges in future steps. The goal is to correct the tree lean with wedges so that the tree stands straight. If this can’t be accomplished with felling wedges, then the tree may not fall as desired. In this case, it’s best to consult a professional arborist.

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10/14/2022 09:19 am GMT

How to Fell a Tree Against the Lean

Cutting a tree so that it falls in the opposite direction that it is leaning is a common goal and one that you can achieve on your own. For this job you will need:

  • Tripod Ladder or Extension Ladder
  • Rope
  • Chainsaw
  • Felling Wedges
  • Sledgehammer or Mallet

With these tools, you can direct a tree to fall against its natural lean. This will protect your property and yourself.

Remove Branches

Leaning trees often have more branch and leaf growth on the side that is leaning towards the ground. This puts increased leverage on the tree, making it more likely to fall in the direction of the lean when felling. To compensate for this, remove the branches from the tree before cutting the trunk.

  • Using your tripod ladder or extension ladder to reach upper branches.
  • If you are using an extension ladder, secure it to the tree with a rope, to prevent it from slipping or falling.
  • Tie a rope to the handle of your chainsaw. Climb to the top of the ladder, then haul your chainsaw up to you. This is safer than attempting to climb with your saw in hand.
  • Remove tree branches using the 3-cut method.

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10/15/2022 12:09 am GMT

This process will reduce the weight of the tree, as well as lower the center of gravity, making trunk felling safer and easier.

Notch in Direction of Intended Fall

Cut a notch into the side of the tree in the direction you want it to fall. Make the notch by first making a flat cut 1/4 of the way through the trunk. Then, make a slanting cut above the first, so that the two cuts meet and a triangular notch is removed from the trunk.

  • Cut a right-angle notch in the side of the tree opposite the lean.
  • The notch should be 1/4 of the tree’s diameter.
  • The notch can be made at about knee height.

For ease of cutting, make your notch at a height that allows easy cutting and safe handling of the chainsaw. This is typically between ankle and waist height.

Begin Felling Cut

Begin a straight cut through the tree, toward the notch from the opposite side. Make sure to only go deep enough that you can drive felling wedges in behind the chainsaw bar without interfering with the saw. About 1/3 of the tree’s diameter should still remain in between the felling cut and the notch at this point.

  • Begin your felling cut from the ground-facing side (leaning side) toward the notch.
  • Cut just deep enough to allow wedges to be driven into the cut without interfering with the chainsaw bar.
  • 1/3 of tree diameter should remain uncut between the notch and felling cut, to prevent unexpected falls at this point.

If your tree is too small to cut in this way without risk of falling before you drive in the wedges, see below for our tips on felling small leaning trees.

Drive in Felling Wedges

Without removing the chainsaw from the felling cut, leave it running with the chain locked to prevent accidents. Then, using your sledgehammer or mallet, drive your felling wedges into the felling cut.

  • Do not remove the chainsaw from the cut. Leave chainsaw running in felling cut with the chain locked. This way, you can drive in wedges and then begin cutting again.
  • Use a sledgehammer or mallet to drive felling wedges into the felling cut.
  • Use multiple felling wedges to correct lean. Use additional shims if necessary.
  • Drive felling wedges into the cut until the tree is standing straight upright.
  • If tree lean cannot be corrected with felling wedges, it is unsafe to complete felling. Contact a professional arborist for help with tree removal.

Make sure your felling wedges do not contact the chainsaw bar or chain, as this can cause damage or breakage. Drive several wedges into the cut until the tree lean is corrected and it is standing straight.

Complete Felling Cut

Now that your tree is standing straight and the lean has been corrected, you can complete the felling cut. To do so:

  • Unlock the chainsaw safety.
  • Continue your felling cut toward the notch.
  • Remain out of the tree’s intended fall path at all times.
  • Stay alert. Establish at least two exit paths in case the tree begins to fall in an unexpected manner.

It’s important to stay vigilant at all times. Although a properly wedged tree will fall in the direction of the notch, stay cautious and retreat to a safe distance if there is any sign of uncontrolled fall.

How to Fell a Tree in the Direction of the Lean

Although it seems much easier than felling a tree against the lean, felling a tree in the direction it is leaning can be just as dangerous. If felled incorrectly, leaning trees can split and kick back toward the chainsaw operator at high speeds. This can cause serious injury. It’s essential to follow the right steps.

For this job, there are no wedges required. The only tool you’ll need is your trusty chainsaw. Although it is advised that you use a ladder and remove tree branches before felling.

Make a Notch in Direction of Fall

Cut a notch in the ground-facing (leaning) side of the tree. Maneuvering the saw and angling the cuts may be difficult due to the tree’s lean, so take your time.

  • Cut a notch on the side of the tree that is leaning toward the ground.
  • The notch depth should be 1/5 of tree diameter.
  • Cut the notch at knee height or lower.

Do not cut the notch too deep, as the tree’s weight and lean may cause it to fall unexpectedly. Cut the notch about one-fifth of the way through the trunk.

Make Bore or Plunge Cuts

After notching, do not make a standard felling cut from the side opposite the notch. This leads to dangerous tree falls and breakages that could injure you or any others nearby. A large tree cut this way can kick back toward you with deadly force. To cut safely, do the following:

  • Make a “bore” cut into the side of the tree. Essentially, you will slowly stab the chainsaw into the tree from the side, midway between the notch and the side opposite the notch.
  • After making a bore cut from one side, repeat from the other. Now, there should be a “hinge” of wood between the notch and the boring cut, plus another “strap” of wood between the boring cut and the side opposite the notch.
  • Make your bore cut slightly above the notch, as seen here.

This step is essential when cutting a leaning tree with the intention of letting it fall in the direction it leans. Don’t make the mistake of taking leaning trees lightly, no matter what direction you intend to fell them.

Make Felling Cut

After making the notch and bore cuts, make your felling cut through the “strap” on the side opposite the notch. Saw toward the bore cuts.

  • Saw through the side opposite the notch. The goal is to cut through the “strap” to join the felling cut with the bore cuts.
  • The “hinge” near the notch should be 10% of the tree’s diameter. This will result in a safe felling without unexpected tree breakage or kickback.

As always, make sure you and any assistants are clear of the falling tree’s path. Remain alert for any unexpected circumstances.

How to Fell Smaller Leaning Trees Against the Lean

Leaning trees 10 inches (25 cm) or smaller in diameter are simply too narrow to accommodate a process of notching and wedging without cutting through them completely. If you want to fell a small tree against the lean, follow the steps below.

Make Your Felling Cut First

Make a cut on the ground-facing (leaning) side of the tree first. This cut should be about 1/2 of the way through the tree’s diameter.

Drive in Wedges

Drive wedges into the first cut until the tree is straight. It will be much easier to wedge and straighten a smaller tree than a large tree.

Make Your Notch

Make a small notch on the side of the tree opposite the first cut. This notch does not need to be any deeper than 1/4 of the tree’s diameter.

Fell the Tree with Wedges

Return to the wedges you used to straighten the tree. Standing well clear of the tree’s intended fall path, continue driving the wedges into the tree. It will begin to tilt in the opposite direction of the natural lean and will fall where you intend it to.

How Do You Fell a Leaning Tree With a Chainsaw?

To cut down a leaning tree and cause it to fall in the opposite direction of its natural lean:

  • Cut off large branches, to reduce weight and leverage.
  • Make a notch on the tree, in the direction you want it to fall.
  • Begin a felling cut from the opposite side of the tree.
  • Drive wedges into the felling cut. Pound them in until the tree stands straight.
  • Complete your felling cut.

This process will allow you to direct trees to fall against their natural lean. It will help to protect your house and other structures. Leaning trees of all types pose challenges during removal, however. Although it may seem simple, felling a tree in the direction of its natural lean also requires special steps to prevent dangerous and unexpected tree breakage. With the right process and tools, you can take down leaning trees on your own, safely and effectively.

How To Cut A Leaning Tree In The Opposite Direction

If you are a woodworker, then felling trees is probably one of those jobs that you have to face irrespective.

There is no way that woodworker would compromise on the quality of the job, either. A tree that is felled in an incorrect way can even be thrown in the garbage. However, there are situations where felling trees can be tougher than usual. And one of these cases is when felling a tree in the opposite direction is required.

So the question remains, how can you cut a leaning tree in the opposite direction?

Well, the short answer is that it is not easy; however, it can be done with correct tools and some required knowledge of tips and tricks in the trade.

In the following guide, we’ll take a closer look at exactly how you can go about cutting a tree in the opposite direction and do it in the best possible way.

Although it’s not necessary to know exactly why a tree is leaning before you cut it down, it is interesting to know exactly why they choose to lean in a specific direction.

One of the most common reasons why trees lean in a second certain direction is because the weight of those branches will cause the tree to lean in a particular direction. So leaning trees are more often than not large, heavy trees or trees with long and heavy branches.

Ultimately, it seems quite dangerous to fell a tree that is leaning, especially if it’s in your backyard. However, by taking a few precautionary steps, you can ensure that it falls in the right direction.

If you are in doubt if you can do the steps below you can always ask the professional. If you are in Iowa, our dear friends back at LocalTreeExperts can help with finding tree removal experts in Des Moines area.

Contents

  • 1 The tools you will need
  • 2 Step-by-step guide on how to cut a leaning tree in the opposite direction
    • 2.1 Step 1
    • 2.2 Step 2
    • 2.3 Step 3 
    • 2.4 Step 4
    • 2.5 Step 5
  • 3 Conclusion

The tools you will need

No matter what tools you use, you need to keep them in perfect shape.

Unfortunately, felling trees cannot be done with your bare hands, even if you wanted to. Additionally, you will need to make two different types of cuts on the tree using an axe. However, you’ll need a few other tools to work with as well.

Two of the basic and most essential tools that will be needed is an axe for cutting the tree down and rope for pulling the leaning tree.

Step-by-step guide on how to cut a leaning tree in the opposite direction

Step 1

You need to start by assessing the situation.

Before getting into it, it’s a wise idea to actually assess the type of work required as well as the amount of work that will be needed in order to fell a leaning tree. So your first move is to figure out the center of gravity, and if the tree is leaning over your house, this assessment may be trickier than usual.

So what you need to do is figure out the offset center of gravity and ensure that if you cut it by the root, so it will fall in that specific direction.

The next step will be to mark the offset center of gravity and clear up the area underneath. After this, you are free to move on to the next step.

Step 2

This step will require a lot of mathematics. So after determining the direction of the fall and the offset center of gravity, it’s time to calculate the amount of back lean that she is going to give. These measurements are even more crucial when felling a heavily leaning tree.

If you’ve never heard of a back lean before, it’s basically the distance from the point that you have marked on the ground in order to apex the undercut. The apex point is the front side of the hinge and also the pivot point of the tree.

Once you’ve done the above, you should take the next steps:

You then want to measure the diameter of the stump with measuring tape. This measurement will determine the distance between the frontal hinge on the back edge of the tree. It will also help you when it comes to measuring the number of key segments once cut.

You’re are now ready to move onto step three.

Step 3 

Next, take an axe that is appropriate for the job and make the undercut. This cut should be made on the same side as the direction of the fall. So ultimately, it should be in the opposite direction of the lean.

You should make two cuts. The first cut should be at an angle of 90° to the tree and the second one should be about the first one.

Ensure that you’re not cutting more than a 1-inch portion of the thickness when you’re making these cuts. The second cut should also connect to the inner portion of the first cut.

The purpose of doing both these cuts is to create a wedge-shaped piece in the direction of the lean of the tree. Ultimately this makes the entire task easier.

Step 4

Next, you need to make the back cut in the tree. This is one of the most crucial steps in the process and especially if you going for a no-wedge approach.

The back cut should be at least an inch above the face cut notch. After making the back cut, keep a sharp eye on the tree because it can start falling from this point on.

Step 5

In the step, the first thing you want to do is ensure that you are somewhere safe.

The tree will start felling, so make sure that you are in a place of safety. This tree is also quite big and heavy, and if it accidentally falls on you, it can lead to a severe accident that possibly even death.

So these are basically the most crucial and fundamental steps that you need to take in order to fell a leaning tree in the opposite direction. Also, take note of the weather conditions and make sure that it’s ideal when choosing to perform this time.

In the event that you have multiple trees that need to be felled in the opposite direction, start with the smaller trees first and be 100% of the weight of the tree. This will ultimately give you an idea of the lean force. Once you’ve cut the tree down, remove the tree stump as well.

Conclusion

Felling a tree leaning in the opposite direction can tend to be challenging; however, it’s not impossible.

If you just remember to make a proper assessment of the situation and use common sense in the process, it will ultimately lead to successful felling.

How to Cut a Tilt Tree to the Other Side

Peculiarities of leveling a house with a rise

Prevention of tree tilt

roll:

  • regularly monitor the growth of the plant in the correct vertical direction;
  • immediately planting seedlings do not be too lazy to dig in pegs;
  • take measures to eliminate rodents in your area;
  • Monitor the level of soil erosion during heavy rainfall to prevent damage to the root system or outgrowth of its shoots.

How to level an apple tree that grows at an angle.

Removal of dangerous trees, saw cut in parts, crowning, pruning of dry branches, cabling, bracing. Felling a whole tree using a quickdraw

, Domodedovo. Egorievsk. Zhukov. Zhukovsky. Zvenigorod. Zelenograd. Istra. Kashira. Kirzhach. Klimovsk. Wedge. Kolomna. Korolev. Krasnogorsk. Cuban. Kurovskoe. Lobnya. Lukhovitsy. Maloyaroslavets. Mozhaisk. Moscow. Mytishchi. Naro-Fominsk. Noginsk. Obninsk. Odintsovo. Orekhovo-Zuevo. Pavlovsky Posad. Podolsk Protvino. Pushkino. Ramenskoe. Ruza. Sergiev Posad. Serpukhov. Solnechnogorsk. Stupino. Troitsk. Khimki. Khotkovo. Chekhov. Shatura. Shchelkovo. Shcherbinka. Elektrostal.

Loosen the wires on the rings on the side of the tree so that the tree tilts to allow 5 to 6 inches of slack in the wires on that side. Make sure the wood is well supported with the other side before loosening the wires or the wood may tip over.

Unwind the wires from the planks on the opposite side of the tree. Use the wires to gently pull tree towards you until it stands up straight. If wood heavy, you may need help. Allow for more slack on the side of the tree that the tree rests on if you pull the wires to that side taut, but tree is still not upright. Check again that tree is well secured on the opposite side or that other people working with you have a firm grip on tree before loosening the wire.

Aligning the walls of the old house

This work is carried out using metal corners 60 mm thick, but the length should correspond to the length of the opening. First you need to cut off a piece of wood and prepare a place for the rack, and only then you have to start a metal corner. Aligning the walls can provide:

Cut down birch with a strong slope towards the house. Felling a tree with a guy wire Ekaterinburg Sverdlovsk region
  • aesthetic;
  • reliability;
  • home longevity.

Well, to ensure high anti-corrosion properties, the surface of the boards should be treated with a special composition

Thus, the alignment of curved block walls guarantees the quality, strength and safety of the building.

How to level a curved wooden beam

It is often possible to encounter such a situation when building boards made of timber are deformed. The fact is that a tree under the influence of moisture or heat can lose its shape and deform. However, each situation has its own solution and the surface of a curved wooden beam can also be leveled.

When should the

bonsai tree be built?

It will take several months before the branches are installed in their new form; the copper wire must be removed. During the growing season, the twigs become very thick very quickly, and as a result, the wire will cut off the bark, creating ugly welts.

Check your tree regularly and remove the wire in time. Using the right material is essential to the formation of bonsai trees. In principle, two types of wire can be used: anodized aluminum and annealed copper. The wire is available in a range of different thicknesses from 1mm to 8mm. No need to buy all available wires; buying 1mm, 1.5mm, 2.5mm and 4mm thick wires should be ideal to get started. When grazing thick branches, it is recommended to first wrap them with raffia, which will protect the branches from being damaged by the wire when they are bent.

If the leveling was carried out in the spring, then during the entire summer season the tree needs special attention and careful care.

If a small tree is bent up to 5 meters

Icing of the branches of a small plant can be removed by pouring warm water from a watering can. For this purpose, you can not use boiling water, only warm water. On tree 3 m high, you will have to pour more than a dozen watering cans of water. You can shake the branches only if snow has stuck to them. Ice cannot be broken. Strongly shaking a thin trunk is also undesirable - you can damage the wood. All work must be carried out very carefully, remembering that the plant is already experiencing an enormous load. Excessive deformation can damage young wood and lead to breakage, the consequences of which most often cannot be corrected.

Stop tree fall.

Greetings masters of the garden!
Asking for advice on how to stop a tree from falling. Cedar 35-40 years old. Grows in the garden. In recent years, it has been getting worse and worse. Are there ways to stop the fall? Sawing is the last option.

Yann: - Wrap the cedar with a piece of rag, put a plank, tie a rope to this place, another the end of the rope must be fixed, (it can be for a building, for a fence or for scrap hammered into the ground). Between the cedar and the fasteners of the rope, lead a bucket of sand. In general, you need to stretch with effort. In the spring, the earth will move away and the stretching force will cause the tree to straighten up. That's how I straightened apple trees. It turned out

Thank you! I'll try to apply your idea. There is something to grab onto. The mighty birch grows 20 meters away.

That is, at first it will hold on to the rope, and then it can fall sharply? As I understand it, the meaning of the described method is not to keep, but to straighten and leave alone.
I thought about the options - to support with a log. But the cedar is already tall. Yes, this system will be unstable.
It just occurred to me to tie it to a birch, but I did not think of the YANN method.
I also thought about digging and pressing down the roots from above from the side opposite to the slope.

Burgan What is the height of the tree? And why leans, the reason is not understood?
Under no circumstances is it necessary to dig, otherwise it will collapse towards the dig.

The height is now 8 meters. In the photo of 3 years ago, it is not inclined so much. In addition, the slope is not very visible in the photo, because. Not the same shooting angle. Heeled gradually. But lately (we assume that after a strong wind) the slope has become quite menacing.
In general, the original feature worsened when the cedar grew. I don’t think that the birches “crushed” him.
Fruits every year.

Burgan wrote:
I mean, at first it will hold on to the rope, and then it can fall sharply? As I understand it, the meaning of the described method is not to keep, but to straighten and leave alone.

Yes, I just thought that it is possible to straighten it, but the possibility of the tree falling in the future is not excluded. Especially if there are problems with the roots.

Burgan wrote :
The height is now 8 meters. In the photo of 3 years ago, it is not inclined so much. In addition, the slope is not very visible in the photo, because. Not the same shooting angle. Heeled gradually. But lately (we assume that after a strong wind) the slope has become quite menacing.
In general, the original feature worsened when the cedar grew. I don’t think that the birches “crushed” him.

It may seem like a crazy idea, but if the turf in the root zone (usually along the projection of the crown on the ground) is strengthened with stones, slabs. Press down, will not let go further. As I understand it. that the wind began to twist the roots.

The idea was to crush it with a concrete slab. It's just kind of unnatural. And there is little hope.
I like the rope and bucket idea. Help the tree to heal. That's just tree - a living organism. And it needs to “want” to get better. Somehow it began to cling to the roots of this side. How can root growth be promoted? Loosen? Fertilize? Persuade and threaten?

Stretch.
On the trunk just above the middle, the hoop is slightly larger in diameter than the trunk and there are loops on it. Wrap the hoop with burlap or something similar soft so as not to damage the bark. At a distance of approx. 3 meters (even probably 4) in a circle to drive in very strong stakes (metal is better) and cables or ropes from the eyes in the hoop to them.

In the meantime, burlap on a strong board and under the trunk also in the middle area.

What makes you think the tree is falling? The cedar just grows crooked.

plowman wrote:
What makes you think the tree is falling? The cedar just grows crooked.

The problem is that every year it grows more crooked. At best, it will slowly fall to the ground over time. But more fears are caused by his sudden fall.
Perhaps initially the crooked growth was aggravated by the weight of the grown tree, by the storm.

Yann: - I usually have trees leaning because of the proximity of other trees, shade.

The nearest tree is a birch. And she's far enough away. In addition, cedar is a shade-tolerant tree .
And most importantly, the slope began to increase only in the last 2-3 years.

Burgan wrote:
The nearest tree is a birch. And she's far enough away. In addition, cedar is a shade-tolerant tree.
And most importantly, the slope began to increase only in the last 2-3 years.

Hello! Burgan, did you manage to stop the fall of the cedar (the topic is January 2010)? I have a similar problem, the pine is 8 years old (after planting), it began to collapse. Tied up with a stretch, stood for 2 years, tightened the garter 3-4 times a year. Straightened up. I took off my garter last summer. Yesterday (I have not been to the dacha since January) I discovered that tree again with a slope of 10 degrees and in the same direction. What do you recommend: a garter again and forever? or cut the branches from the side where it falls? Have you tried to load the roots “from the top” side (for example, a concrete slab, and paving slabs on top of it = 4.5 tons?), something else?

The whole problem is in the roots. I pulled the trees like this - I took 2 cables, one working , the other , the backup was tied to something and the other ends to the falling tree through the planks. then grew pulled up with “lambs” to tension the cables. when they “converged” one cable left as is another shortened, pulled and then shortened the second. this whole procedure was stretched for 5 years until the tree was leveled for 3 years and for 2-3 years until the roots sprout again. so he raised 2 apple trees and, of course, before removing the cables, he cut the branches “in opposition” it turned out one-sidedly clumsy but.

How to fell a tree if there are houses nearby?

If you are a beginner, felling trees (especially large ones) near nearby houses is not recommended. There are many factors related to a particular felling of trees.

The inclination of the stem must not be less than 45 degrees;

The plant will have both a thin and tall stem;

There may be decayed areas, cracks, hollows, which can be seen visually.

If there are a lot of houses, engineering networks, communications next to a tree, then we will have very little space for work (otherwise, something can be hurt). Therefore, specialists under such circumstances prefer to fell trees in parts. That is, the element is cut down, suspended, then descends. Without special equipment and professionalism, such work is not worth doing! The descent of the cut parts of the tree occurs with the help of other trees located nearby - they are needed to bind the fragments of the tree.

How to

cut down a tree with a chainsaw

cutting and warehousing.

There are certain rules you need to follow when felling a trunk by hand:

  • the longer the blade of a hand saw, the more springy it becomes, which can make cutting through hardwoods, including ash, maple and oak, much more difficult;
  • it is necessary to determine the length of the hacksaw blade in accordance with the rule that says that the length of the saw should be a couple of times the diameter of the trunk;
  • Too short hacksaw teeth stick inside the wood, and uncomfortable work will cause rapid fatigue.

As a rule, the manual method is used to cut young and not too tall trees.

How to

cut down a tree and fell it in the right direction

Landscaping a site and caring for a garden is not complete without cutting down old trees. Without proper organization of work, there is a risk of damage to buildings or serious injuries. Today we will tell you in detail how to cut down tree and fell it in the right direction.

Felling trees in the right direction

The technology for felling large and young trees has some differences, but there are general rules that must be taken into account in the process of work:

  • into which the sawn plant must fall;
  • make an incision on the opposite side and fell the tree;
  • When felling large trees, an inclined top cut is made at an angle of sixty degrees with respect to the base of the fall side. The sawing of the stem part is carried out at 20-25% of the diameter;
  • at the next stage, a horizontal lower cut of the notch is made, converging with the upper cut, which will make it possible to obtain a side frame;
  • then the next horizontal notch is made above the first and always on the opposite side;
  • a wedge is inserted into the second cut and after finishing the cut tree must be felled with a spatula.

Work is best done from November to mid-December, when there is not too much snow yet, but the ground is already quite frozen. The chainsaw must be held with both hands during operation.

What to do with the stump?

To eliminate it, as a rule, uprooting is used. Thus, without "digging" the soil, it will be possible to get rid of the stump and leave a flat earthen surface. To make felling trees less time and effort, root cutting is recommended. The procedure is carried out at an angle and strictly to the direction of root growth. To quickly dig up the roots, use a shovel. But from the visible part of the roots, you need to remove the bark. It is advisable to tap the soil, otherwise it will be difficult to work with the ax, as it will become dull.

Today, a classic saw, an ax is rarely used for such work. Because with the help of electrical equipment, felling trees can be done much faster. When the time is short, it is worth contacting the experts. Since it is possible to perform the work quickly and as efficiently as possible only if you have special equipment and skills to work with such equipment.

How to cut the trunk, from which side - diagram

To saw the trunk, the following steps must be taken:

  • From above, the trunk is cut approximately in half.
  • The saw turns off (see why the chainsaw stalls), but remains in the tree. At this time, a wedge is driven into the hole obtained at the first stage, which must be qualitatively tamped with a hatchet. This is necessary so that the saw is not twisted by the weight of the two trunks, but is between them in a free position.
  • The stem is finished to the end point.

Sometimes the chainsaw bar remains in the trunk, especially for not only massive, but also hard woods. In this case, pulling it out is pointless. You need to quickly turn off the motor, and then you should act on both sides of the barrel from the cut from below, trying to simultaneously pull out the device. For this action, you will need the help of a partner.

Take a closer look at

How to fell a tree in the right direction?

Any specialist knows that felling large and young trees is a completely different job. But there are nuances that need to be considered in both situations.

How to fell

a tree in the right direction

Basic felling technique

The basic felling technique is simple and consists in making an angled or straight cut 1/4 or 1/5 of the trunk diameter deep on the side where it will be carried out tree felling, after which the main cut is made from the opposite side.

If the tree is upright, and the thickness of the trunk at the base is no more than 15-20 cm, then there are no special tricks here. But if tree stands at a slight slope, or the trunk diameter exceeds 20 cm, the process must be treated as responsibly and competently as possible. Otherwise the tree may fall in an unpredictable direction, even if the notch is correctly cut.

What, how and why

The guide chip is the undercut between the main cut and the notch. It is she who allows you to direct tree with high precision in the right direction.

Remember, guide chips are never finished! Otherwise, the direction in which the tree falls will become unpredictable. Always leave 10 to 5 cm (or about 10% of the thickness), after which the barrel is pushed in the right direction.

If the saw bar is shorter than the trunk diameter, the main cut can be made in several passes.

Push and steer the trunk using a pole, a pre-installed winch, or cables longer than the height of the tree. And also with the help of a special lever, wedges or even a jack.

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Usually the question is not only how to cut down a tree , but also how exactly to put it in the right direction so that it does not cause any damage when it falls. We will also talk about the cases in which it is possible to do this, and when it is worth looking for other solutions.

How to cut

a slanted tree

An important point! If the slope of the tree does NOT exceed 5-7° from the vertical, i.e., for example, the projection of the top point of a 10-meter tree is at a distance of no more than one meter from the center of the future stump, then this is tree can be conditionally considered upright. It is sawn according to the scheme described above, but if the felling needs to be done in the opposite direction from the slope, two things should be taken into account:

  • chips. It is exposed, as described above, with the help of cables and other means. Also, a guide chip can help with this if one of its edges is made wider.
  • The force on the ropes at some point may be too high, so it is necessary to use a chain hoist or winch to prevent backswing.

If the slope of the tree exceeds 5-7°, it is better not to try to fell it in a direction other than its slope, but to resort to other methods (cutting in parts or simply spend time clearing this direction if possible).

A few words about safety

When felling rotten or rotten trees, the guide chips should be left thicker than usual. Otherwise, it may burst at the most unexpected moment, and the tree will fall along an unpredictable trajectory.

The safety zone and the retreat zone for the operator are on the sides of the felling direction, and not in the opposite direction. If there is an error in calculating the thickness of the chips during the fall, the trunk can abruptly go back.

How we sawed down a tree

"Dry theory, my friend...". No matter how much you read the instructions, but until you step on your own, practically, and not theoretically, on all the rakes, there will be little sense.

We had a tree in our yard. Big, thick and completely dry. It is not known what kind of attack happened to him, but for some reason it withered in the prime of his life and stuck out like a huge dry, spreading snag. The tree was visible from the road, and it did not please the eye, that is, it did not decorate the site. And how much longer it could stand like that, no one knew.


Here it is, the tree

Of course, from the very beginning of life in our house we wanted to cut it down. It's only now that the time has come to do this.


Tree and February sky

Since the unfortunate tree was outside the area of ​​buildings (both ours and neighbors), wires and other things that could be damaged when it fell, we decided not to resort to the services of specially trained people.

The husband is fluent in various tools, but he does not yet have enough practice as a lumberjack. Of course, this is not the first tree he sawed down, but the old large pears and apple trees, cut down earlier, in comparison with this spreading snag looked almost like bushes.


Sawn old pear tree

There are instructions that popularly explain how and in what sequence to cut a tree.

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First digression: how to cut down a tree.

Instruction

First you need to examine the tree itself and the surrounding area and choose a place where the fallen trunk will lie.

If the tree is twisted, tilted in any direction, its branches do not grow evenly and symmetrically, or the trunk is not round, but a flattened, elliptical shape, then you need to fell the trunk in the direction of curvature or inclination, in the direction of the greatest development of the branches or the smaller diameter of the elliptical trunk.

Step one: cut the wedge

After the felling direction is chosen, the first cut is made - at an angle of 45 degrees to the horizontal surface on the side where the trunk is planned to fall.


45 degree cut. Photo from the site leroymerlin.ru/

Then a horizontal cut is made until it is connected to an inclined one in order to remove the wedge. The cut is made to a depth of 1/4 of the trunk diameter. After that, the wedge is removed: there will be a “fold” here - the trunk will “fold” towards the sawn wedge.

Having made sure that there are no strangers, animals and valuable objects in the area of ​​the expected fall of the tree, which may be damaged in the fall, proceed to the next step.


Step two: felling cut

Another felling cut is made on the opposite side of the removed wedge. It is made horizontally to a depth of about 2/3 of the thickness of the trunk, but 20-50 mm above the horizontal cut from the side of the sawn wedge.


felling cut. Photo from leroymerlin.ru/

It is important not to cut the trunk completely, otherwise the trajectory of the trunk will be unpredictable. It is necessary to leave an undercut, the thickness of which will be approximately 1/10 of the thickness of the trunk.

After that, it remains to take the last step.

Step Three: Felling the Tree

A wedge, wood or plastic, is inserted into the felling cut and the trunk falls in the specified direction. Sometimes the use of a wedge is not required - in case the calculation of the length of the cut is accurate. After you hear the crack of a breaking tree, you need to move to a safe distance in the direction opposite to the fall of the tree.


Insert the wedge into the felling cut. Photo from the site leroymerlin.ru/

Everything is described in the instructions so simply. The main thing is to observe safety precautions and the rules for sawing a tree.

How to cut down a tree. Practice

Our tree was at an angle. The angle of deviation of the trunk from the vertical was about 10 degrees. And all its branches were also directed towards the slope. The instruction says to fell the tree in the direction of the slope. And towards the main direction of the branches.

True, in the same instructions it is written that the place where the barrel fell should be directed away from what could be damaged when it falls. The tree was tilted towards the garden, and we did not want it to break the apple trees when it fell.


Dry tree and garden

The photo shows how small four-five-meter apple trees are compared to the tree supposed to be cut down. It's on the right.

Therefore, we decided to make a guy in the opposite direction from the garden, so that the tree would fall against the slope, away from the garden. You can also read the instructions on the Internet about the guy.


We sawed and sawed it... First day

On the appointed day "D" we once again examined the area around our tree. After an hour and a half of exercises with throwing a rope on a tree, the husband finally threw it in the place that was marked for fixing the stretch.

We fixed the rope, stretched it with the help of a tightening mechanism on the belt to secure the weights to a tree growing twenty meters from the doomed dry one. Since we spent a long time throwing a rope at a tree, we decided to start sawing the next day.

Day Two

As it should be according to the instructions, first a wedge was cut from the side where the tree was planned to fall - from the side opposite from the garden.

Here the first hitch appeared: the tree turned out to be an oak. Perhaps this was the reason for his death in the prime of his life: another oak grows nearby, only bigger, in the photo it is on the left. Maybe the older and bigger “killed” the opponent, they grew too close?


So far everything according to the instructions

In general, quite mature, although long dead oak turned out to be very hard.

Retreat two: chainsaw

During our professional construction activities in the city, we have accumulated a decent amount of different tools. But there was no chainsaw - somehow there was no need for this tool. I bought it just before leaving for the village, and it moved with us in a store-bought unpacked box.

I usually buy the instrument. I know pretty well what exactly is needed: what manufacturer, what power, with what functions, and so on. And I chose the chainsaw too.

Everyone knows that the Swedish company Husqvarna produces the best chainsaws. But of course they are expensive. I didn’t choose the first chainsaw from the expensive segment - if you master the tool, you need to buy something more budgetary, “for trial”, in order to understand what you need from the tool. It is useless to rely on other people's reviews. PARTNER, ECHO, CHAMPION and STIHL are overhyped brands, which is not always good either. Therefore chose DDE.


DDE CS4216PS 16

I chose it because the saw is quite powerful - 2.5 hp, because it has a farmer's purpose (felling seemed superfluous to me, we did not plan to cut down the forest, and the garden saw is too low-powered). At the same time, it is lightweight. She also has an auto-sharpen.

The saw turned out to be quite decent - the fact that it leaks oil does not count. It has been working without problems with a decent load for the third year already and coped with all matters, including felling trees up to 40 centimeters thick.

As a result of operation, it became clear that the issue of fuel suction was not entirely successfully resolved on this model. There are also small flaws related not to the device and functionality, but to personal preferences in ergonomics. Although as a small saw for ordinary cases, it is quite suitable.

And one more conclusion: in our lifetime, we need a second chainsaw, more powerful, with a longer and more powerful tire. That's just for such situations, as in the described case.


Second day. Continued

As already mentioned, our dry tree turned out to be hard oak. And much thicker than 40 centimeters - its diameter is more than 80. Our chainsaw for such a trunk has a short and narrow tire - 16".

enough for the entire thickness of the trunk. Therefore, instead of a beautiful wedge, as in the instructions, it turned out like this:


0007

Well, not for a tree-felling competition, but this one will do - how the wedge should work. On the reverse side, they made a felling cut of the required depth - approximately 2/3.

With the help of a puff, the trunk was tilted in the direction of fall - the tree did not fall. We loosened the rope, replaced the luggage puff, designed for a load of 500 kg, with a two-ton winch, and repeated it again. The barrel, which had a slope of 10 degrees, stood up almost vertically, but remained standing.


Two-ton winch

When using a winch, it was decided that the selected rope was too thin. But they left everything as it is - without weakening the stretch. And they postponed the next day, because it got dark.

Third day

During the night the tree did not fall, the rope did not break. We repeated the “dances with a rope” - they brought in a new, thicker rope.


Wonderful day three. The tree is standing

We pulled the guy line again with a new rope - the winch completely pulled out the chain, the tree remained standing. The husband sawed out another wedge, now from the back, to try to get deeper into the trunk - the tire is short. Trimmed more that you can - both from the back and from the sides. To no avail.

If you pull on the rope (the one that was tied first, now free), the tree swayed like a tumbler, rolling on a stump, but did not fall.

We fixed the rope in the position to which it was pulled out with a winch, removed it, transferred it to a tree that was further away, and again pulled it to the stop on the winch. The tree began to lean away from the vertical in the direction we wanted it to fall. But it didn't fall.


Fully selected winch chain. Position #2

In an attempt to swing the trunk, cut off the excess, pulling up with a winch, removing it and moving the winch even further, another day passed - the third. Again, they left everything as it is until the next day.

Fourth day

In the morning we again made sure that the stubborn tree was still standing, stretched out. Once again, they “consolidated the achieved result”, fixing the rope in the position to which they reached it with a winch. Once again they removed the winch and fixed the hook higher along the stretched rope so that they could still pull it up.

Somewhere in the middle of the winch, the rope burst. And the tree, despite the sharp weakening of the stretch, was pumped back to its previous position and still remained standing. Now its slope towards the garden has increased even more - from the original 10 degrees to almost 20. After all, on the other side, from the side of the garden, a wedge was also sawn out. But this did not affect his “sustainable position in life” at all: the tree continued to stand.


The position of the trunk after the rope break

We decided to give up trying to save the apple trees from a dry oak falling on them: this epic was exhausting, and there was no way out, the rope broke. Attempts by pulling on the rest of the rope to put the trunk in the opposite direction to the original plan - towards the garden, along the slope, also did not lead to anything: it swayed, but did not fall.

In the cut (where the wedge was cut according to the instructions), not even wedges (plastic, for example, as in the instructions), but 5-7 cm thick sticks were driven into the cut - the trunks of sawn alder bushes.


Wedges

The stubborn tree withstood five such wedges and only then began to crack menacingly. Retreating (according to the instructions) to a safe distance, we froze for another thirty minutes, watching the barrel slowly tilt, shifting literally millimeters, and crackle. Only half an hour later, finally, the four-day operation called “cutting down a dry tree” ended - the oak trunk collapsed into the garden.


Downed tree

Oak turned out to be an extremely staunch enemy: he withstood a four-day siege with the use of "heavy artillery".


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