How to fix ge pre lit christmas tree lights

Pre-lit Christmas Tree Lights Not Working

You plug the tree in but not all the lights are shining. This can be a frustrating situation, especially if the tree is only 2-3 years old. Often, a Christmas light tester is the easiest way to locate the problem area. This page is about pre-lit Christmas tree lights not working.


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Ask a QuestionHere are the questions asked by community members. Read on to see the answers provided by the ThriftyFun community or ask a new question.

Question: Malfunctioning Pre-lit Tree?

November 25, 2014

I need some electrical help! I am trying to replace burnt out bulbs on my tree. However with one row of branches, every time I replace a bulb, the whole branch turns off. I have even tried putting the old burnt bulb back in, the one that still kept the whole strand on the branch working originally, and it still won't turn the rest of the strand on that particular branch back on :(

I gave up on the one branch and found another burnt out bulb on the branch beside it. Guess what happened when I replaced it? Yup, you guess it, I broke the whole strand on that branch too. I thought it was just a fluke and said I'll just throw that end of the tree up against the wall, but I still didn't learn. I found one more burnt out bulb on the next branch over... and yup, I broke that strand too.


Now I'm stuck with 3 dark branches and it stands out, badly.Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong? Please help! This tree is for a unit I work on at the hospital. My good deed is driving me crazy :p

By SincerelyReallyFrustrated


Matthew T.

December 1, 20143 found this helpful

Best Answer

I'm not an expert, but I was having a similar issue and finally broke down and bought a Light Keeper Pro from Home Depot for $20. Problem solved! Very easy to use, and paid for itself within 5 minutes. Now I'm going back to all my old decorations that use mini lights and fixing them, too.
Hope it helps. Good luck!

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December 2, 20141 found this helpful

Best Answer

I saw the answer above and purchase the Light Keeper Pro from Home Depot for $20+tax. Just as above Problem solved! Very easy to use, and paid for itself within 5 minutes.


There were 9 bulbs out with 3 burnt shunts (keeping the string dead). It would have taken an hour to solve if I was able to get them all out of the string. Wow.

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Question: Pre-lit Christmas Tree Bulbs Not Working?

January 2, 2012

My pre-lit tree is 2 years old; one section is out and it seems like almost every bulb has blown at once. What causes that?

By Carmine


Best Answer

It may be a fuse in the light set. They have a fuse in the line. Check what kind and most drugstores and walmart sale them. Sometimes you can get one out of another old set of lights.

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Pat Phillips

January 9, 20120 found this helpful

Best Answer

It is very important to make certain that none of the bulbs are loose. That is usually the problem. They can become loosened in shipment or just getting them out of the box and putting them up.


If you have ONE bad bulb and it's still in tight, the others will remain lit, and of course check the fuses in the plug, if all else fails...

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Question: Lights Not Working on Pre-lit Tree?

December 22, 2014

We bought a pre-lit xmas tree about ten tears ago. We set it up this year and all was well until a week later. We plugged it in and all the lights were out. Any first aid suggestions other than to get another tree?

By Theresa from Chicopee, MA

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Question: Pre-lit Tree Lights Not Working?

The clear lights on the top part of my pre-lit tree are dim. What can I do?

By Anthony from RI


Best Answer

The little gun zapper worked great and we could only find it at Walgreens. We got most pre-lit lights back on but not all. thanks so much for the info.

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January 10, 20110 found this helpful

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I have a 7ft GE pre-lit tree that I bought in November '10. One row of lights went out just after Christmas. Discovered one of the non-replaceable bulbs blew. Lost the warranty card so I paid GE $15 for a new section of lights. Figured since I'm basically out of warranty, I would try pulling the white bulb before trying to rewrap the wires (Read some of the horror stories below).


Pulled the bulb and white base, swapped the bulb with one from a green, replacable base and plugged it back in. The tree is as good as new. Does anyone know if there is a difference between the replaceable and non-replaceable bulbs, besides the base? Besides being more difficult to get out of the socket, I see no difference in the bulb.

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January 31, 20120 found this helpful

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I was just told that the 'non-replaceable' bulb has a built in fuse. When the fuse blows, they purposely don't want you to be able to remove the bulb and white base for safety reasons. That's apparently why they say replace the whole string.


That said, it seems to me that the bulb could blow without the fuse blowing. I'm assuming that the bulb in the white socket is the same as all the others. (True?). But you can't replace that bulb if you can't get the white base out of socket! Some folks have talked about forcing the base out and replacing the bulb that way, but I think you're asking for safety issues.... 'you're playing with fire'... maybe literally! :) Any time you try to bypass or play with a designed safety mechanism you're asking for trouble. You're in an unknown area where you are using something in a way which it was not designed to be used.

Bottom line, to me at least, is that all these light sets on prelit trees (and loose strings too) are not meant to last forever. Some, maybe all, of these light strings have labels that say they are only to be used for 90 days! So putting an unremoveable fused base in a light string serves the purpose of making sure that these lights are not used 'forever' and are taken out of service after a while: Either when the fuse blows or when the bulb in that base burns out.

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November 24, 20122 found this helpful

Best Answer

I came across this issue and read all the online info. Found myself in a similar situation, out of warranty and with dead bulbs. Bought a light keeper pro with no improvement. Decided to try to pull the white ringed bulbs in desperation. First after unpluging the tree, I took a heat gun (a hair dryer would probably work just as well or better as I needed to be careful not to melt the actual tree) the soften the socket area slightly.

Once the white ring socket was warm I twisted the clearly burnt up bulb off. I was able to wedge a plexiglass etching tool in between the bulb socket and the base. Then a narrow/ thin needle nose was manipulated into the same space. A little tug and it was out damage free. I then inserted a new replacement bulb into the base and reinserted the white ring. Did this x 2 and my tree is fully operational! I think the heat made a big difference in making things more malleable.

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Question: Trouble Connecting Lights on a Pre-lit Christmas Tree?


December 7, 2009

No one seemed to understand the problem with my pre-lit Christmas tree. Anyway my tree has a main hot wire that runs up the center of the tree. The tree also has lots of plug-in ones that will connect to the main wire on each section, then the other plug-ins that will connect to each other so each section will burn.

My problem is getting the main one plugged in the right socket so I can work my way up the tree. All fuses and lights are OK. Will someone give me some idea how to get all these plugged in? Or tell me which one plugs to the main hot wire on each section? There are no color codes on the plug-in. Thanks

By Reba from Bristol


Bronze Feedback Medal for All Time! 186 Feedbacks

December 7, 20090 found this helpful

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When I assemble my tree, I always plug in the bottom section, that way as I put each additional tier on it, I can plug it in making sure that each section is plugged into the right place. I hope this is what I understood your problem to be.

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I did what redhatterb suggested, but then I made a diagram showing which branch numbers get plugged into the tree plug and which get plugged into the previous branch's plug. I keep this diagram in my tree storage container in a plastic sleeve. It's made putting the tree up each year much easier.

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Question: Pre-lit Christmas Tree Lights Keep Going Off and On?

November 16, 2012

The top section of my newly bought tree keeps going on and off. It seems when they are on and I try to adjust the branches the lights go off. Then when they go on again they stay on indefinitely as long as I don't touch the branches. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

By Celeste O.


Anthony G.

December 13, 20141 found this helpful

Best Answer

While it is common to hear the term 'short' in the wiring, it is often used incorrectly by laymen and when they mean exactly the opposite of a short; a short would be a connection in a place it is not intended, and would probably blow out fuses, circuit breakers before it causes a fire. While it may help pass over the problem quickly with afternoon tea and biscuits, in a technical or troubleshooting discussion, it should not be used incorrectly. In this instance, nothing said indicates a short. Rather, it sounds like an opening in the wiring or a poor connection at a junction. Wiggling the wires should help you find the area with the poor or open connection.

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Question: Pre-lit Tree Won't Light?

So I have a GE 7.5ft pre lit Christmas tree. It has a foot pedal to control three different settings. What is the foot pedal connector part called? The tree is not lighting up at all. I have replaced all the bulbs and even replaced the connector that the lights plug into.

But when I hit the foot pedal to turn it on/off I'm not hearing a click. So needless to say I believe the foot pedal portion needs to be replaced, but can not find anything online. I really don't want to cut them off and replace them if I don't have to.

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Question: Prelit Christmas Tree Not Working?

What if there is no white socket light?



November 20, 20160 found this helpful

Cannot find a white socket. ..What do I do now

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Question: Some Lights Out on Pre-lit Tree?

December 18, 2011

I have a pre-lit tree and noticed that some of the lights are out and have turned black. Does that mean that I need to replace that strand? Can you do that on these?

By pj


Bronze Feedback Medal for All Time! 186 Feedbacks

December 18, 20110 found this helpful

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I don't know why the bulbs have turned black, or do you just mean they don't light up. If some of them have just burned out, you should be able to replace the bulb. Anyway any pre lit tree that I have had have been that way. I don't know if you can replace the whole string or not, to me they look like they are attached to the tree in places. I kind of decided that when this happens to mine, I will just pretend it is one that didn't come with lights and string strings of new lights on it. The pre lit trees are kind of expensive to replace.

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Question: Problems Getting Pre-lit Tree to Light?

Is there a certain way to plug pre-lit Christmas trees in.

By liz from Idaho


Best Answer

I'm beginning to hate my pre-lit tree 8). But this year we bought one of those 'guns' that you can use to 'restart' the lights. They have helped with about half of the un-lit strands. It's called a "Light Keeper Pro". Can't remember the cost, but well worth it! Found it at the big box store.

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Question: Some Lights Out on Pre-lit Tree?

Our pre-lit "Barcana" artificial Xmas tree is 10 years old, and has functioned very well until this year. I just noticed that a section of the lower part of the tree doesn't light, although the rest of the tree does. I also saw that almost all the mini-bulbs in that section are burned out. I replaced maybe 30 of the bulbs, using the correct 2.5 volt bulbs. On the last one, the section lit up, but it was abnormally bright, lasted maybe 3 seconds, then went out.

Most of the new replacement bulbs were burned out. What seems to be happening is, that section of lights is drawing too much current for the bulbs, but not enough to burn the fuse; i.e., the bulbs are acting like fuses. Anyone know what is happening here, and what I can do to fix it?

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Question: Replacing a Strand of Lights on Pre-lit Tree?


December 6, 2015

My dog chewed the wire on the bottom strand of lights on our prelit tree. Can we unplug this strand from the one it's connected to and replace it with a new strand?

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Question: Christmas Tree Lights Not Working?

December 10, 2014

Christmas tree light manufacturers claim that if one light goes out the rest stay lit, this is not true. I have at least 20 sets with this claim that don't work including 2 prelit trees, why?

By scw



December 12, 20141 found this helpful

Best Answer

Buy the "Light Keeper Pro!" I thought it first it was a gimmick, but it works fantastically. It's like a little gun and you shoot it into the socket of light strand - it actually clears the current. It is a must especially with these pre-lit Christmas trees. We found ours at English gardens. But check online just Google and you'll be able to find other retailers that sell it ... sometimes drugstores have it too I would not have pre-lit trees or Christmas lights without it. My husband thought it was a joke, until it cleared out areas of lights not working on our pre-lit tree.

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Question: Pre-Lit Christmas Tree Has a Short?


January 5, 2010

We have a pre-lit Christmas tree that has worked for years beautifully, but this year the whole tree has been going out on us. The first time it happened we figured it was the main 5 amp fuse. We bought another and we were right, it lit again beautifully, but only for 1 day.

We again put in a new fuse and have found that the tree will light for a few hours and then everything goes off. As soon as I change the main fuse it goes on again. Obviously we must have some sort of short somewhere but how do I find it?

By Sara from NJ



January 5, 20100 found this helpful

Best Answer

First and foremost, if I were you, I'd check with an electrician and make absolutely positive that your tree isn't going to short out and maybe cause a fire. If it were me, I'd trash the tree and find a new one. Sorry but the cost of a new tree is nothing compared to what the cost would be if it caused even a small fire. I once had a toaster short out and I was standing maybe 10 feet away. It scorched a spot on my wall about a foot wide and almost twice that up the wall before I could get to the electrical box and flip switches which took probably less than 90 seconds.

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Pre-lit Christmas Tree Lights Repair/Replace • Queen Bee of Honey Dos

Home » Renovate & Repair » Pre-lit Christmas Tree Lights Repair/Replace


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istmas tree ornamnetsSeven years ago, I purchase a beautiful 9′, Vienna Pine. You know, the kind with the pre-lit Christmas tree lights? Well, it was wonderful for the first five years. Then, a few years ago the lights began to gradually twinkle out. So, last year after putting the thing together, wouldn’t you know it! Several rows wouldn’t light up.

(This post may contain affiliate links (*). That means that I make a small commission from sales that result through these links, at no additional cost to you. You can read my full disclosure here.)

So, after spending hours trying to find and replace the burnt out bulbs, and after checking all the fuses, I was about to give up. Then, I decided to try one of those light repair guns*. Luckily, that got me through the Christmas season, but it was still a struggle. With me having to constantly get the gun out and click multiple lights every day, only to have to do it all over again the next day, I decided no more. The lights had to be replaced.

Pre-lit Christmas Tree Lights Repair/Replace…

When I unpacked the tree this year, I knew that I had a project ahead of me. My tree was still in very good shape, but the 1300 plus lights were shot. I guess I could have just bought a new pre-lit tree, but mine cost a pretty penny. Even with replacing the old lights with all LEDs, I would still be spending less than half the cost to replace the tree. Plus, LEDs will be perfect for when I get around to flocking my tree, and eventually, I will.

So, LED lights it is! I looked long and hard before deciding on a GE brand in soft white. Of course, a LEDs soft light is nowhere near as soft as the old incandescent bulbs. But, at least they do not have that bluish tint that the regular LEDs have. I bought my lights at Lowe’s, but if you can’t find those, Amazon sells these warm LED lights*.

I have also noticed that Walmart has some GE lights* available on their website. To be precise, the lights that I used were the GE warm white in the green packaging.  However, regardless of the brand that you choose, the most important is to be consistent.

If you need five strands, make sure all five are the same brand, style, and color temp. Otherwise, your tree will look funky. Also, if your tree comes in sections like mine, you will likely need a brand that comes in both 100 lights and 50 or 150 lights per strand. You’ll see why when you look at how I determined my light distribution in step 2.


Where to begin? Oh, yeah. First, let’s lay out all the sections of the tree. (Mine has five sections).

Now, remove all of the old lights. Since I felt that mine were pretty much useless, I am using wire snips to cut through the jumble of crisscrossed wires that make up my trees old lighting system. Be prepared to spend an entire afternoon just taking all the old lights off. It’s not hard, just a bit tedious.


Then, to determine how many lights that I was going to need, I decided on about 5-6 bulbs would be dispersed on the top sections of each branch. So, I counted the branches (the very top doesn’t have individual branches. So, I just allotted 40 bulbs).

The bottom of the top section had 12 branches. That makes 12 x 5 = 30 + 40 more for the top tips. In other words, the top section gets a strand of 100. From there, I increased the bulbs per branch as I moved down the sections. (as the branches get longer, it will take more lights). This is how I worked out the lights on my tree. (click any image to enlarge).

To make things easier, I used the tree stand to hold each individual section as I wrapped the lights. On most sections, the lights needed to go from the interior towards the tip. Then, back along the length and cross over to the next branch. However, on a few sections, the branches were staggered. So, it made more sense to jump from branch to branch, in an up-and-down direction.

Try to make it so that male and female ends will connect at the interior of the tree. If that is not possible, use an orange colored zip-tie to mark the location of the plugs. You will be glad that you did next year when you have forgotten where you ended each strand.

When starting each section make sure that you begin with the female end on the top branches of the section and keep the male end on the bottom branches of the sections. That way you will finish with the plug (male) at the bottom of the tree. Doing this makes it easy to connect your 1st stand to an outlet and leaves a female hook-up at the top of each section.

Tip – to help keep things in place, use zip ties. You especially will want to zip tie the light connections that are made within a section. (i.e. anyplace where you plug the next strand into the previous one). That way the connections that are made within a section are easier to locate should they come unplugged in later years.


As you work your way along the branches, separate the needles so that the wires can be wrapped right up against the metal branch. This will help to hide the wires. Then when you reach the outer tips, just intertwine the lights loosely and to your liking. This will also be beneficial if you ever decide to flock your tree.

Reverse the process and go back down the length of the branch before crossing over to the next branch. (FYI – a few strategically placed band-aids will protect your fingers from becoming cut and raw. ) :-) Make sure you leave enough slack at the end of each strand to reach the plug on the next tree section.

Continue stringing the lights, one tree section at a time. Once you finish with one section, set it aside and start on the next section, using the allocated strand length.


Assemble the tree sections and plug in each male to the corresponding female jack. I ended up using exactly 1000 lights to get this result. However, the number of lights will depend on your tree size and your personal taste.

When you disassemble your tree this year, just unplug the strands between each section. (The same way that you did with the old lights). Good luck!

UPDATE: Three years later and my lights are still working perfectly. You can check it out on my 2018 Southern Home Christmas Tour. You will also notice that I have flocked my tree, as well. I just did that this year, and will post those instructions next week.

– PIN IT –

– PIN IT –



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About Rachel Lynn

Rachel is a home improvement expert with more than 20 years of experience in renovations, carpentry, and interior design and has more than 10 years experience in graphic and web design. She used the combination of her experience and knowledge to start her own digital media publishing company where she shares her knowledge across three different websites.

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How to fix a garland - Lifehacker

December 28, 2018LikbezDo it yourself

Do not rush to throw away old lights and run to the store for new ones.



As a rule, garlands have a rather simple design and typical faults that are easy to fix even without special skills and tools. But in some cases, you may need a soldering iron and a multimeter. Therefore, you may still have to turn to a familiar radio amateur.

The cause of a garland malfunction, like any electrical engineering, is the failure of one or more circuit elements. Everything is usually repaired by replacing a faulty part, which can be found in another garland or some kind of broken equipment.

Careless handling of the electric garland can result in electric shock or damage to the device. You perform all actions at your own peril and risk. Lifehacker does not bear any responsibility.

How a garland is arranged

All electric garlands are arranged in the same way. In older samples, these are light bulbs connected in one circuit that light up or flash when connected to the network. In modern ones, a controller is added to glow in different modes and the bulbs can be replaced by LEDs.

Usually, old or decorative garlands have two wires, or to be more precise, one, which is connected in the form of a ring and twisted. Modern models have five wires. Four LEDs are located - these are branches. The fifth - general - remains empty.

At the far end, they all connect together, and their other ends go into a small box with a button and a plug.

Inside the box is a controller - a small board that contains a chip for creating effects and a few parts. A diode bridge, a capacitor, a pair of resistors and four (or two) thyristors that control the glow of each of the branches with lights of the same color.

In the photo on the left, the four black parts are thyristors. The blue one next to it is a capacitor, small light-colored edges are resistors, behind the scarves with a microcircuit are a diode and a button.

In the photo on the right is the reverse side of the board, two wires from the bottom - mains power, a row of wires from the top - lines of branches of each color and a common one.

How to fix a garland if it does not turn on

Cause 1. Broken power wire

Thin wires are often damaged by breaking at the plug or coming off the board inside the control box.

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How to fix

Move the wire at the plug and next to the box. If the garland works, then the problem has been found and all that remains is to replace the cable by disassembling the controller unit.

If not, troubleshooting should start with the power cable. Open the cover, unsolder the two wires going to the board and replace them with a working wire with a plug.

If there is no visible damage to the board, this should help and the garland will work. Otherwise, the problem must be sought in the power diodes.

Cause 2. Burnt diode bridge

Power surges can destroy one or more diodes of the diode bridge. As a result, the board will not be powered and the garland will not turn on.

How to fix

Check all diodes with a multimeter and replace the non-working ones with good ones. Details can be taken from another garland or found suitable at the denomination indicated on the body.

How to fix a garland if one of the colors does not work

Cause 1. An open circuit in one of the branches

Due to poor quality, the wires can break off either at the board itself or somewhere between the LEDs. In both cases, the circuit opens and the LEDs stop glowing.

How to fix

Separate the dead branch from the rest and carefully inspect the wire to check its integrity. If it has moved away from the board, strip it, re-solder it and fix it with hot glue for reliability.

If there is damage on the cable between the LEDs, strip the ends of the wire and solder or twist them together, then insulate with heat shrink or electrical tape.

Cause 2. Burnt LED

Low-quality LEDs often light up. With a serial connection, this means the same open circuit as in the previous case.

How to fix

Finding a broken LED or light bulb in a series circuit is more difficult. One option is to ring each element with a multimeter.

You can also make a jumper of two needles connected by a wire, and alternately close the incoming and outgoing wires on each LED with them. The garland must be turned on. The LED, when closed, all the lights of the branch will light up, and will be defective.

To restore the circuit, a non-working LED can either be replaced, or simply removed and connected the ends of the wires to each other, insulating them. Without consequences, you can throw away up to five LEDs in one branch.

Cause 3. Thyristor failure

If the control thyristor of one of the lines fails, all LEDs of the same color stop working.

How to fix

You can fix the breakdown only by replacing the thyristor with a working one from another garland or a suitable one at face value. To check, you need to use a multimeter or resort to the following method.

Identify the wire of the non-working branch and swap with one of the good ones by unsoldering or cutting and connecting with a twist. If the defective line then works, then the problem is in the thyristor.

The wires that go to the thyristors are usually arranged in a row at one of the edges of the board. On the opposite there will be only two wires - this is power. It's hard to confuse them.

How to fix a garland if one of the colors is dimly lit

Cause 1. Branch wire tear

Due to a break in the wire inside the wire, contact is broken in the circuit of one of the branches. The current still passes, but it is no longer enough to light all the LEDs.

How to fix

Carefully inspect the entire branch. Move the wires at the board and each of the LEDs of the switched on garland to determine the damaged place. As soon as you find it, all the LEDs will light up in full force. Next, it remains to restore normal contact by soldering the wire or stripping and connecting it.

Cause 2. Broken thyristor

Due to a faulty thyristor, one of the lines may not have enough current for the normal operation of all LEDs.

How to fix

This breakdown is treated only by replacing the thyristor with another one. You can check the performance with a multimeter, or by transferring the wire to one of the working lines.

How to fix the garland if it flashes randomly in any mode

Cause 1. Failure of the capacitor

Drying, leaking or swelling of the electrolytic capacitor causes malfunctions of the controller.

How to fix

Carefully inspect the capacitor. If it is swollen, darkened, or electrolyte streaks are visible on it, then a replacement is necessary. Examine the case to find out the rating and voltage, and then find an analogue with parameters no less than the original ones. Carefully unsolder the old capacitor and install a new one, observing the polarity.

Cause 2. Broken resistor

Burnt resistors also cause controller malfunction and unstable lighting modes.

How to fix

Check the resistance of the resistors with a multimeter and replace the faulty ones with working ones of the same rating. If visually the parts are intact, it is still better to replace them to rule out a malfunction.

How to fix the garland if all LEDs are on at the same time and do not blink

Cause 1. Chip failure

Damage to the controller chip causes all LEDs to light simultaneously and without blinking. The modes stop working, and when you press the button, the lights turn on and go out when you release it.

How to fix

Unfortunately, garlands with this problem cannot be repaired. A working controller from another garland will not work. It is designed for a different number of LEDs and resistance, thyristor current. Therefore, at best it will not work, and at worst it will cause a short circuit.

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    We are all familiar with Christmas tree garlands, consisting of multi-colored light bulbs. However, in recent years, products based on led light-emitting diodes have become very popular.

    How they are arranged, what connection scheme they have and what to do if the garland stops glowing, we will consider in detail in this article.

    What does a Christmas tree garland consist of

    What is a garland of LEDs?

    Outwardly, it is almost the same product as before - wires, light bulbs (LED), control unit.

    The most important element is of course the control unit. A small plastic box on which all kinds of backlight operation modes are indicated.

    They change at the touch of a button. The block itself can be with a fairly well protected level of moisture and dust protection IP44.

    What does he have inside? To open it, use the sharp tip of a knife or a thin screwdriver to pry the latches from the bottom and take off the protective cover.

    By the way, sometimes it is glued, and not just sitting on snaps.

    First of all, inside you will see the wires soldered to the board. A thicker wire is usually a mains wire that supplies 220V.

    Soldered on the board:

    • controller that creates all the lighting effects
    • thyristors, each of them goes to a separate channel of the garland
    • resistors
    • capacitor
    • and diode bridges

    The number of board elements depends primarily on the number of light channels of the garland. More expensive models may have a fuse.

    LED garland circuit

    Mains alternating voltage through resistors and a diode bridge, already rectified and smoothed through a capacitor, is fed to the supply controller.

    In this case, this voltage is supplied through the button, which is open in the normal state. When you close it, the controller modes switch.

    The controller in turn controls the thyristors. Their number depends on the number of backlight channels. And after the thyristors, the output power goes directly to the LEDs in the garland.

    The more such exits, the more diverse the color patterns the product can have. If there are only two of them, this means that only two parts (or halves) of the garland will work in different modes - some bulbs will go out, others will light up, etc.

    In fact, these two strings of diodes will be connected in two channels in series. They will be connected to each other at the end point - the last LED.

    If for some reason you are annoyed by the flashing of the garland and you want it to glow evenly with only one color, it is enough on the reverse side of the board to short-circuit the cathode and anode of the thyristor using soldering.

    The more expensive garland you have, the more outgoing channels and wires will leave the control board.

    At the same time, if you follow the tracks of the board, one of the mains voltage outputs is always supplied directly to the final LED of the garland, bypassing all the elements of the circuit.

    Causes of malfunction

    Situations with malfunctions of the garland are very diverse.

    At the same time, remember that the most important element - the microcircuit on the board, "burns" very, very rarely.

    Approximately 5-10% of all cases.

    You can even make a conditional rating of LED garland malfunctions (in order and frequency of damage):

    • Poor contact on the wires
    • LED in one of the bulbs
    • Capacitor
    • Resistors
    • One of the
    • diodes
    • One of the thyristors
    • Controller IC

    Poor soldering

    If your backlight suddenly stops working, always check the soldering of the supply and outgoing wires first. It is possible that the entire contact was held only by hot melt adhesive.

    It's worth moving the wires and contacts anyway.

    The most common problem with Chinese garlands is the use of very thin wires that simply break off at the solder points on the board.

    To prevent this from happening, all contacts after soldering must be filled with a thick layer of hot melt adhesive.

    And when stripping such veins, it is advised to use not a knife, but a lighter. Instead of chipping away the insulation with a blade, heat it up a bit and melt it with a lighter fire.

    After that, simply peel off the outer layer with your nails without damaging the strands themselves.

    Damage to the LED

    If the wire contacts are in order and you sin on one of the diodes, how can you check its malfunction? And most importantly, how to find it among the whole series of light bulbs?

    First of all unplug the garland from the socket. Start with the last diode. A power cable comes to it directly from the control unit.

    Outgoing conductor soldered to the same leg. It goes to the next branch of the light channel. You need to test the diode between its two power wires (input-output).

    You will need a multimeter and its slightly upgraded probes.

    To the tips of the probes of the tester, tightly wind thin needles with a thread so that their tip protrudes by a maximum of 5-8 mm.

    From above, wrap everything with a dense layer of electrical tape.

    Since the LEDs are soldered, simply pulling them out of the light bulb as in ordinary garlands will not work here.

    Therefore, you will have to pierce the core insulation to get to the copper cores of the wiring. Switch the multimeter to the diode continuity mode.

    And you begin to sequentially pierce the supply wires near each suspicious diode.

    If your garland is not 220V, but 12V or 24V, which is connected from such a power supply:

    then a working LED from the multimeter battery should light up.

    If this is a 220V backlight, then check the multimeter readings.

    On the working elements, they will be approximately the same, but the faulty one will show a break.

    The method is certainly barbaric and damaging to the insulation, but it is quite working. True, street garlands after such punctures are better not to be used outdoors.

    Chaotic blinking

    There is a situation when you turn on a garland and it starts blinking randomly, sometimes brighter, sometimes dimmer. Changes channels by itself.

    In general, one gets the impression that this is not some kind of factory effect, but as if the garland "has gone crazy".

    The most common problem here is the electrolytic capacitor. It may swell a little, swell, and this will be clearly visible even to the naked eye.

    Everything is solved by replacing it. The denomination is indicated on the case, so you can easily purchase and pick up a similar one in radio parts stores.

    If you changed the capacitor, but this did not give an effect, where to look next? Most likely one of the resistors burned out (broken). Breakdown visually determine quite problematic. You will need a tester.

    Do measurements of resistance, having previously recognized its nominal (normal) value by marking. If it doesn't match, change it.

    Part of the garland does not light

    When any of the channels on the garland does not work completely, there can be two reasons.

    For example, a breakdown on one of the thyristors or diodes responsible for it.
    To be sure of this, simply unsolder the wires of this channel on the board from your place and connect the adjacent channel there, which is obviously working.

    And if at the same time another channel also stops working, then the problem is not in the garland itself, but in the components of its board - a thyristor or diode.

    Check them with a multimeter, find suitable parameters and change them.

    The garland shines dimly

    There are also not quite obvious accidents when the LEDs of a separate channel seem to be on, but rather dimly compared to the others.

    What does this mean? The controller circuit is working fine. When the button is pressed, all modes are switched.

    Dialing diode bridge parameters and resistance tester also does not reveal any problems. In this case, it remains to sin only on the wires. They are already quite frail, and when such a stranded wire is torn, its cross section decreases even more.

    As a result, the garland is simply not able to start the LEDs in the nominal brightness mode, since they simply do not have enough voltage. How to find this torn vein in a long garland?

    To do this, you will have to walk along the entire line with the handles. Turn on the garland and start moving the wires near each LED until the entire backlight lights up in full force.

    why the Christmas tree lights are dim

    why the Christmas tree lights are dim

    According to Murphy's law, this may be the very last section of the garland, so be patient.

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