How to get rid of elder tree


How to kill Elderberry trees?

Table of Contents

Elderberry trees or Sambucus were initially categorized within the Honeysuckle family but were later re-categorized as Adoxaceae. They are a great addition to anybody’s garden for both their aesthetic quality and also their health benefits. Elderberry trees are also known for their fast growth which can also turn into excessive growth.

Let’s take a look at some of the ways to remove your Sambucus as well as kill their root system.

How to kill Elderberry trees?

Although a lot of the Sambucus varieties grow as vines, the Elderberry can reach up to a height of 10-13 feet. When it comes to killing Elderberries, you can choose from a variety of options. Each of them has its pros and cons both in terms of cost and efficiency. Let’s take a look at some of these methods.

  • Foliar Spray: This method is most suitable for smaller trees that are shorter than 14-15 feet. To use this method, simply spray the foliage of the tree with a weed killer of your choice. Make sure there is no wind that day as the chemicals can be carried away by the wind.
  • Cutting the tree down and treating the stump: This tree killing method is one of the oldest and most effective. Once you cut the tree down, depending on the species,there is a chance it might sprout back. Treating it with herbicide like tordon will prevent the tree’s further growth and kill the root system.
  • Gridling or ring barking: To use this method you simply have to remove a strip of bark around the circumference of the tree and treat it with a herbicide of your choice. If you prefer not to use herbicide, make sure the strip of bark is at least 4-6 inches wide. This will cut out any nutrients travelling from roots to the leaves.
  • Basal Bark treatment: To use this method, spray the bottom 20 inches or more with a basal bark rated herbicide.
  • Injecting the tree with killing chemicals: You will need to drill 1-2 inches deep holes along the circumference of the tree at a slight downward angle. After this, simply spray or squeeze in some herbicides into the holes. Diesel can also do the trick in this case.
  • Cut surface treatment: To use this method, make cuts every 2-3 inches of the circumference. Make cuts in the bark deep enough to expose the inner white surface. Then spray the cuts with a chemical like Tordon or Roundup.

It should be noted that even though any of the above methods can be used to kill Elderberry, depending on the location of the tree, it will still have to be taken down later on.

Another thing to note is that even after you kill the tree, you will have to watch out for sprouting. If the stump starts sprouting, it indicates that the tree was not killed completely.

The best way to kill a small Elderberry tree

Usually, a small Sambucus tree only grows up to be a shrub, vine, or a 4-5 feet tree. Besides uprooting the small bush, Foliar Spray would be most suitable here.

The most effective season to use this method is summer and spring as the foliage cover will be high and nutrients are actively flowing through the tree.

  1. Make sure there is no wind during this as the herbicide can get carried away.
  2. Use an effective herbicide like Roundup or Ortho. (Read more about them here)
  3. Spray the foliage or the leaves of the Elderberry with the herbicide.

The herbicide will be absorbed by the leaves and transported to the roots, killing the tree over time.

Alternatively, you can cut the tree down and treat the cambium layer with recommended herbicides like Tordon.

The best way to kill a big Elderberry tree

A mature Sambucus tree only grows up to be about 10-13 feet. Therefore, most of the killing methods will be fast and efficient here. There can be two varieties of Sambucus trees, one where the main bark and base are covered by dense foliage and vines, making it inaccessible, and the other with a clear base or a stump.

For the first variety, the Foliar Spray method as explained above would suffice. The large foliage and lower height will make the killing process fast and efficient. For the second variety, you can go for ringbarking.

Ringbarking would be the easiest, safest, and most efficient method for killing a large Elderberry or Sambucus as it will stop the nutrient flow from the roots to the stems and the leaves, killing the tree over time.

  1. You will need to either get a hatchet, or a chainsaw for this method.
  2. Simply remove a ring of bark around the entire tree.
  3. Spray some recommended herbicides along the exposed bark.

Removing the bark around the tree exposes the cambium layer to external conditions, which itself can be fatal to a tree. By applying herbicide you will increase the chances of killing the tree.

Killing a small Elderberry compared to a big Elderberry – What are the differences?

Usually in other species, some methods of killing trees might just not work with larger trees. But this is usually not the case with Sambucus. This is because the maximum growth of this species is only up to 10 feet. For example, the Foliar Spray method should work with both small and large varieties.

Hire a professional tree removal service

Hiring a professional can take care of a lot of your problems especially if you are dealing with a large tree. Even if Sambucus does not grow up to be very large, its dense foliage and extensive vines can be a pain to deal with. Another factor to keep in mind is that Sambucus can also be invasive, they can start growing rapidly within a short period of time. A professional can make sure that the tree does not sprout back to life.

Take a look at my tree removal cost guide here.

Things to consider while removing a tree on your own

If you are not experienced with killing or removing trees, there are some unexpected challenges that can come your way.

Sambucus trees will start decomposing once they have been killed, which increases their chance of falling down. Even though these are not very large trees, decomposing vines can create a mess.

If you kill the Sambucus tree during its fruiting season, there can also be an extremely bad smell once they start decomposing. This smell can take a very long time to go if it gets into the soil.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are Sambucus roots invasive?

Sambucus roots can be invasive if the conditions for their growth are right. They don’t take a lot of time to grow and spread. You will have to be very throughout while removing any new shoots or stems which might start growing during the spring.

Do Sambucus Trees have deep roots?

Luckily, Sambucus trees have shallow roots. This makes the killing and removing process faster and easier.

Conclusion

The easiest method to kill Elderberry trees would be the foliar spray method. The herbicides sprayed on the tree will be absorbed into the leaves, carried to the roots system, slowly but surely killing the whole tree and its root system.

Recommended reading:

  • How to kill Yew trees

Robert

Hi!
I am the guy behind Theyardable. com. I grew up on a homestead and I am here to share the knowledge I have and things I learn while living in the countryside.

Ultimate In-depth Guide & How to Get Rid of it

Most people are not even aware that they have a common elder in their garden. Common elders can be found virtually anywhere there is an open space of soil, and they will thrive if given the right conditions.

In this article, we’re going to discuss what the common elder is, how it grows and spreads, and what you need to do to get rid of it once and for all.

Common Elder, or Sambucus nigra, is a shrub that can grow up to 10 feet tall and have dark-purple berries. The plant is an aggressive competitor for light, water, nutrients, and space. If left unchecked, it will create dense thickets of woody stems that crowd out other vegetation.

This blog post will provide an in-depth guide on what Common Elder are, how they grow, and how to eradicate them from your garden.

Quick Facts
Common names: Elderflower Tree, Arn Tree, Black Elder, Boon Tree, Boor Tree, Bore Tree, Bour Tree, Elderberry, European Elder, Pipe Tree, Elder, Bourtree, Creeping Eider, Eldererwort
Scientific name: Sambucus nigra
Family: Viburnaceae
Origin: native
Flowering season: July to September
Habitat: alongside borders, forest edges, near roadsides, streambanks, riverbanks, footpaths and railroad tracks, or other places where water tends to collect after heavy rains.

Common Elder Identification

Common elder is typically found in areas with rich, wet soil. Common Elder is most often found growing near wooded areas with moist soil but it can also thrive in open spaces where drainage from rain runoff creates wet conditions.

Common Elder is commonly found on land that has been uncultivated for some years but can be found in residential gardens.

Common Elder is a very large shrub or small tree that reaches heights up to 14 feet tall. The leaves have serrated edges with white flowers growing at the end of each branch in clusters.

The most obvious sign of a common elder infestation is the yellow flowers that bloom each spring and summer.

Common elder is so invasive it can grow beyond that of a shrub to becoming more like a tree

What does Common Elder look like?

Characteristics that make up the Common Elder leaf, stem, root and flower are detailed below.

Common Elder is not always easy to identify, as it shares many characteristics with other plants. It grows from a single stem and can grow up to 12 inches in height.

Its oblong fruit clusters hang down under their heavyweight when ripe; they resemble grapes but have small spines at their tips instead of seeds.

Common elder is a perennial weed that can grow up to six feet tall. The plant has long, slender stems and leaves that are rough or hairy in texture with serrated edges.

It blooms from July through September producing clusters of small yellowish-white flowers growing on spikes at the end of branches.

The long elongated leaves of the common elder weed

Leaves: Common elder leaves are lance-shaped or elliptical in shape.

The leaves are typically between one and two inches long with a pointed tip, which is why they’re also called “Lamb’s tongue.”

The leaves are green on top and silver-greyish underneath, which makes them hard to spot against the botanical litter common in parks or along pathways.

The underside of the leaf has very fine hair running along with it, whereas its upper side lacks any hairs at all.

This can make identifying common elder against other plants like lamb’s ear tricky because the only way to tell them apart based on looks alone is that common elder has teeth while lamb’s ear does not.

Stem:  It has long rod-like stems topped by clusters of oval dark green leaves that are asymmetrical and coarsely toothed.

Stems grow quickly but not as fast as bamboo; there will often be yellowing between leaf joints where they come off the stem.

Roots: The main reason why it has become so pervasive is because of its ability to grow back quickly from small root fragments left behind after being cut down or pulled up.

It also spreads by taking advantage of disturbed soil where other plants have been removed allowing space for new growth.

The large clumping of white flowers belonging to the common elder weed

Flowers: Flowers are scented and creamy-white in colour, appearing from early summer. Flowers lead onto small, black, berry fruits.

These flowers are easily identifiable due to their distinctive shape; they look like small lilies with long stems and large petals.

The plant produces small clusters of greenish-white flowers, each with five petals in the shape of an urn. These blooms appear from May until August but will be more prevalent during June and July.

Common Elder Sambucus nigra Berries. Elderberry blackberries in the woods.

Fruits/Seeds: Common Elder also produces seedpods called “elderberries” which range in colour from green to black depending on ripeness before eventually turning brown when they dry out and fall off their respective plants.

Smell: Common Elder is characterized by its unpleasant smell which some people describe as similar to mouldy carrots or wet leaves.

Common Elder Seasonal Changes

Some common elder weeds are called such because they tend to show up in the late summer and early autumn. Although some of these plants might not be too much trouble, others can wreak havoc on a garden or lawn if left unchecked!

One way that you may tell an elder weed from other similar-looking species is by looking at their leaves; many members have large, often heart-shaped foliage with scalloped edges while others boast more rounded shapes.

Common Elder in Spring

Common elder, also known as Sambucus canadensis and European black elderberry is a plant that blooms in the springtime. The flowers are yellow-green with five petals each about one inch long.

They grow on green stems which produce small berries or fruit when they turn red along their entire length to purple-black over time if left unattended by humans (though not usually).

Small scented, white flowers appear in spring, The leaves and flowers of this weed release pollen in the springtime that can cause allergies. However, these symptoms are not present during other seasons because less pollen exists due to the lack of blossoms on the plant.

Common Elder in Summer

Summertime is a busy season for the common elder. The large leaves of the tree grow and change colours in response to increased daylight hours, so they’re more easily found from an aerial view. In addition, its fruit becomes ripe and easier to spot during this time of year.

The foliage is also attractive, with green and dark, almost black-leaved varieties available, some with very finely cut and highly ornamental leaves.

During early summer, it flowers flat sprays of small creamy-white flowers. However, these are then followed by red, white, or blackberries.

Common Elder in Autumn

Elder weed is a type of plant that looks like it has fallen victim to the changing seasons. When autumn approaches, their leaves start turning an attractive yellow colour and fall off in preparation for winter’s wrath.

Common Elder in Winter

Common elder weed is a perennial plant that grows in shady areas. In the winter, it’s often found with damp, mossy leaves and looks like small shrubs or bushes.

Common elder weed is a plant that withstands the winter cold with little difficulty because of its ability to shed leaves and enter into dormancy. The weed’s form in winter can be easily mistaken for an ornamental tree or shrub, making it difficult to know what type of foliage you’re looking at.

Blooming elderflower in garden Sambucus nigra.

How to get rid of Common Elder

If you have small children around, be careful because they may want to eat these tasty-looking yellow flowers which are poisonous and can cause stomach aches, vomiting and dehydration among other serious symptoms – especially if eaten raw.

The most effective control for this weed is removal before flowering occurs because it can then spread seed prolifically throughout your garden if left unchecked.

This weed spreads through broken roots so removing them at ground level where they touch soil while wearing gloves may help reduce contact dermatitis symptoms.

Method One – Herbicide Treatment

One way that seems to be rather effective for homeowners without much space or landscaping to deal with is spraying them down with any type of herbicide like Roundup® Weed & Grass Killer Plus Dye™ which contains roundup plus dye.

This is easier to see as well as kill-it should take effect right away after coming into contact with foliage while still allowing time for rain runoff during application; once dry, new growth will have been cut at its roots preventing future sprouting from occurring because the diluted solution remains active for up to four days until dissolving back into the soil.

Method Two – Cutting it out

Another option is to use a push mower on its highest setting, or a rotary mower set at their lowest level of cut height if you have one: weeds like Common Elder grow low and close to the ground which makes them relatively easy targets during this type of operation while still providing a sense of accomplishment from taking care of it yourself without using chemicals.

Check the lawn for any leftover remnants with your eyes and then use clippers on taller weeds as needed.

If this is done quickly it should take less than 30 minutes per 500 square feet but could be longer depending on how much time has elapsed since last trimming (especially in summer) or the size of weed stalks-it’s also important to note that these recommendations are based off levels equivalent to what you would see around here, adjust according to local conditions such as climate and temperatures; some recommend using fertilizer after cutting down

Common Elder because they can interfere with nutrient absorption by grass blades due to their roots’ ability to take up more nutrients than other weeds.

Common Elder Management

Common Elder is a perennial plant that will grow back even after being cut down or pulled up, but it can be slowed with repeated cutting, digging out the roots and using herbicides to reduce regrowth from root fragments.

For those who want to keep these pesky plants away for good without pesticides but still enjoy beautiful gardens all year long (not just when it’s convenient!), there is an alternative solution: cover your landscaping area with mulch after first watering thoroughly then let time do its thing until next spring.

In Conclusion

Common Elder are a tough plant but with this guide outlining all areas for attack, we hope you’re ready to fight back against this enemy before they get too far into your garden again!

Common Elder are a very adaptable weed that grows in our gardens today and is one of the most resistant. However, using one of the products mentioned below will eliminate it.

How to remove elderberry from the garden - popular and effective ways

Table of contents

  • Why remove stumps?
  • Breeding at different times of the year
  • Proven ways to get rid of old elder (bushes and trees)
    • How to get rid of weeds in the garden - video
  • Video
  • Planting with a closed root system: using herbicides
  • fight dandelions in the country
  • Other ways
  • Preparation of the Earth
  • How to protect the tree from pests
  • Surgical work
  • Safety measures
  • Characteristic features of black Black
    • Features and description
  • If there are many blackberries
  • Methods of uprooting
    • Mechanized method 9000
    • Manual method of manual method
    • Chemical method
  • Advantages and disadvantages of Agrokiller
  • Shrub description
  • Stump removal technology with saltpeter
  • Stump burning.
  • Total

Why remove stumps?

But really, why? There is a stump and it stands, you can even masterfully beat it in landscape design. I wanted to leave it, but they dissuaded me in time, citing a number of significant arguments:

  • a dead tree will gradually collapse, attracting pests from all around to rotten wood, which subsequently migrate to healthy individuals;
  • in case of sawing a stump below ground level and then backfilling the soil, the solution will become temporary, since over time the roots and the rest of the trunk will rot and the soil will sag;
  • If a fruit tree has been cut down due to disease, the stump left behind will serve as a source of "contagion" for other crops.

Removal at different times of the year

It is possible to get rid of garden brambles efficiently and discreetly at any time of the year. In summer, spring, it is better to use the methods indicated above. In winter, autumn it is worth trying something else. First determine what kind of blackberry it is, and also whether it has cold resistance. Below are ways to deal with plants of different cold tolerance.

  1. Strong resistance. Do not cover with spunbond or other materials. It's covered with snow, dig it out. Now it is necessary to cut the stems during the cold weather so that they stick out from under the snow. Dig up the roots only if the soil is soft. You also need to clean the blackberry from the snow during the winter. By doing this, the chances are increased that the rhizomes will freeze in the ground and die.
  2. Poor stability. Trim the growth, leaving only thick trunks. Cover with a cloth, tie tighter so that nothing grows. Then protect it all. When the snow melts along with the root, dig out the connected stems.

Proven ways to get rid of old elderberry (bushes and trees)

If you have a whole tree growing on your property, you can't just pull it out. Firstly, the dimensions are not the same, and you will need to use brute force paired with an ax, or even more serious equipment. And secondly, the root system of an elder bush or tree occupies a large perimeter. It is difficult to uproot everything, and the remaining fragments of the roots will again give growth.

It is possible to remove the old elder tree from the site by carrying out complex measures. First of all, it is necessary to cut down adult bushes to stumps and, as far as possible, dig up the young ones. Then apply "chemical weapons", but wisely, so as not to harm cultivated plants.

Preparations based on glyphosate will help to destroy the elderberry, namely:

  • Roundup;
  • Octopus Extra.

You need to spray the young shoots that will appear if not all elderberry is uprooted. If stumps remain, they must be lubricated with undiluted herbicide. You can drill holes in the stumps and pour herbicide or diluted urea into it, and wrap it with black film on top. "Chemistry" will spread through the roots and kill them.

How to get rid of weeds in the garden - video

Hello. I turn to you with a request and ask for your help. Elder overcame on the site. If you know a way to get rid of it, please post. I will be very grateful.

Respectfully yours, pensioner, Gorikova T. V., b. Adygea, Enem village

To get rid of the most tenacious plants, the method used by the Americans in the jungles of Vietnam is suitable. Sprayed from helicopters with roundup and all vegetation dried up within 2-3 weeks. You do not have a helicopter, but there is a sprayer. Cut off all branches of the elderberry, and spray the regrown young shoots with herbicide in the spring. If there are the necessary landings nearby, then you can not spray. Therefore, arm yourself with a syringe and drive the solution under the bark - the effect will be no worse. And do not forget to thoroughly rinse the sprayer with water and washing powder after the herbicide, as vegetable crops can die even at low concentrations. When they want to get rid of an unnecessary "tenant" for sure, they mix two different herbicides together. For example, dodder parasite plant foci were treated with a mixture of Roundup and Lontrel. Such a mixture beats most of the various weeds, while separately, part of the plants remains immune to the poison.

Video

Experienced gardeners share their opinions on how to deal with the American maple and the need to eradicate it in the following videos:

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Did you know that:

In Australia, scientists have begun experiments to clone several varieties of grapes growing in cold regions. Climate warming, which is predicted for the next 50 years, will lead to their disappearance. Australian varieties have excellent characteristics for winemaking and are not susceptible to diseases common in Europe and America.

Closed-rooted planting

Closed-rooted seedlings can be planted almost throughout the year. Of course, no one will plant small and medium-sized plants in a snowy winter, but for large-sized trees, winter planting with a frozen lump has long remained the only method widely used in Russian practice.

The technology of planting container seedlings is quite simple and fundamentally not much different from the planting of seedlings with an open root system described in detail above. Therefore, taking it as a basis, we will consider the specific features of planting container plants.

First, you should know that the soil (land mixture) is included in the list of quarantine materials prohibited from being transported across state borders, and therefore, for the official delivery of seedlings from abroad, they are placed in containers with peat or other material allowed for transportation, completely unsuitable for the further growth of these plants. Such seedlings should be removed from containers as soon as possible and planted in a permanent place in open ground or containers with a normal soil mixture.

In recent years, organizations supplying seedlings from abroad have established the process of re-rolling planting material at their bases, and as a rule, plants with a good soil mixture in containers go on sale.

However, there are cases of direct deliveries.

Recommendation

Therefore, before purchasing a plant in a container, you should make sure that the mixture is good in case you have to keep it in it for 2-3 weeks before planting in a permanent place.

Immediately before planting, the seedling must be carefully removed from the container. If the roots have come out of the coma and spun along the walls of the container, they must be cut with repeated vertical movements of a sharply sharpened knife around the entire circumference of the coma or several shallow triangular slits should be cut out in the coma along its lateral surface.

Further operations are not much different from planting seedlings with an open root system:

  • first, the soil mixture is poured into the planting hole so that the surface of the clod placed on it protrudes 5–10 cm above the soil level;
  • then water is poured into the pit and backfilling is carried out with tamping of dry earth mixture into the gap between the lump and the edge of the planting pit along its entire perimeter.

In conclusion, we can recommend for better survival of seedlings planted in the two ways described above to use root formation stimulants, the most famous of which is "Kornevin". Working solutions are prepared at the rate of 0.0001% concentration. Solutions of a higher concentration can lead to burns of root tissues and their death.

Using herbicides: how to deal with dandelions in the country

Before using herbicides to deal with dandelions in the lawn and garden, you need to make sure that crops and lawn grasses do not suffer from chemicals.

Manual weeding or the use of mechanical devices is labor intensive and time consuming. Another thing is the use of modern chemical compounds that inhibit weeds. Herbicides are indispensable if dandelions have filled the site, and it is simply impossible to deal with them manually.

The range of available preparations suitable for controlling dandelions in the garden includes preparations:

  • which kill all types of green plants that are sprayed;
  • selective action, destroying only cereals or rhizomatous weeds.

Means of wide action, for example, Roundup, Tornado, Agrokiller and other preparations, will save the garden not only from dandelions, but also from couch grass, thistle thistle and other annoying plants, which can be extremely problematic to remove in other ways. However, the effect of such herbicides does not end immediately after spraying. For a few more weeks, the composition oppresses everything that grows in the neighborhood. This applies to seedlings and seedlings planted in the beds. Therefore, large-scale chemical weeding is carried out:

  • by covering cultivated plantings and soil under them beforehand;
  • in early spring, long before vegetables, flowers or other useful plants are planted;
  • in autumn, when everything useful is removed from the beds.

Specialized formulations act selectively. But when purchasing this or that remedy, you need to remember that the wheatgrass chemical does not necessarily help get rid of dandelions, but it can kill lawn grass.

Before you permanently get rid of dandelions on the site, you need to choose the most useful drug, read the instructions and follow it, not exceeding the permitted dosages.

To destroy dandelions in beds with potatoes, garden strawberries or on the front lawn, you can use the herbicide Lontrel-300D, which also suppresses the growth of sow thistle, perennial sorrel and other weeds. Especially for lawns, formulations have been developed that do not affect the growth of cereals, but in a few hours suppress the development of dandelions, meadow chamomile, plantain, buttercup and thistle.

Herbicides kill the aerial part of the dandelion and its rhizomes, but cannot affect the seeds

Therefore, it is important to carry out all treatments before the weed has faded and flying seeds have ripened on the heads. Plants pulled out of the ground are put into compost, sprinkled with soil, since the seeds can ripen here too

How to deal with dandelions in the country, if it was not possible to prevent the resettlement of dandelions? In this case, you will have to remember about regular weeding. The spitting of dandelion seeds begins as soon as the soil warms up to 10-15 degrees. As long as the seedlings are small and the roots are weak, removing dandelions by hand is not difficult. In the future, loosening the beds will help.

Significantly reduce weed populations by mulching or using a sheet covering the entire area of ​​the ridges, except for planting tomatoes, zucchini or other useful crops. This solution will be especially useful when growing strawberries.

Other ways

There are other ways to get rid of stumps or use them effectively on the site:

  1. Planting a young tree in a stump. The rest of the trunk is sawn off at ground level, then a “landing pit” is organized in the center using tools that are suitable for the root system of the young growth. The recess is filled with nutrient soil, in which a small seedling of a fruit tree is planted. As it grows, it will feed on the decaying roots of the sawn tree.
  2. Filling with water before winter. It is necessary to drill several holes in the stump, into which water is poured before the first frost. If you have the opportunity to come to the site in early winter, continue to water the rest of the sawn tree with water, as if “glazing” it. The ice formed inside the wood will destroy it, and in the spring you will only have to manually remove the rotten stump.
  3. Table salt. This method is suitable for eliminating overgrowth in places that you do not plan to use in the coming years for planting crops. The average stump takes about 300 grams of salt, which must be poured into the drilled holes in the wood, and then spilled with water. After wintering, the rotten part is removed, and the remains are covered with earth.
  4. Herbicides. Apply a herbicide solution to a fresh saw cut, wrap the stump in polyethylene and leave it for the winter. In the new season, you can easily remove dead residues from the site.

Ground preparation

Preparation should be started in advance, preferably six months before planting lawn grass seeds. The best time to do this is in August or early September.

Outline the future lawn and, on a cloudless day (preferably with no chance of rain in the following days), treat the area with suitable herbicides. Tornado and Agrokiller have proven themselves well. They are capable of destroying all vegetation, so use them very carefully, not forgetting about protective equipment.

After 2-3 days, the plants begin to turn yellow and dry, and after 5-7 they die off completely. The site can be dug up and the stems of dead plants removed.

After that, wait about a month - the weed seeds left in the ground will germinate. Repeat the punitive action, destroying the remnants. Dig up the ground again, removing the remains of weeds. Leave the site until next year - in mid-April-May (depending on the region and the weather in a particular year) it will be possible to continue work. During this time, the herbicides are completely neutralized.

How to protect a tree from pests

Shrubs are especially vulnerable to mites and aphids. In Europe, where elderberry is grown on plantations, diseases of unknown etiology can be observed, caused by physiological disorders or the work of pathogenic fungal species. The root system is attacked by rodents who like to make cozy minks there. Harvests can suffer from birds that also like elderberries.
Young seedlings can also be susceptible to various viruses, so before planting they must be carefully examined and checked for diseases and diseased cuttings removed.
In early spring, before bud break, the garden is sprayed. In this case, the air temperature should not be lower than 4 degrees. With a small number of harmful insects, it makes no sense to use pesticides. But if there are many of them, then drugs such as:

  • fozalon are used to get rid of them;
  • fenitration;
  • dimethoate;
  • deltamethrin;
  • lambda-cyhalothrin and others.

Surgical work

Unfortunately, even in subsequent years, weeds will make themselves felt. For example, the ubiquitous dandelion. Its seeds are carried by the wind for many kilometers, and it is impossible to protect oneself from them.

Here you have to work exclusively by hand and very carefully. It is necessary to remove the entire root - leave a shoot and in two weeks you will get a new weed

This is best done after rains, when the ground is thoroughly wet. If there is no rain, a special root remover should be used.

Gently stir up the soil under the lawn with little to no damage to the grass itself and easily remove the weeds along with the root. Of course, keeping the lawn in perfect condition is not easy

But its beautiful view completely compensates for all the time and effort spent

Of course, keeping a lawn in perfect condition is not easy. But its beautiful view fully compensates for all the time and effort spent.

Safety Precautions

Taking into account the fact that ammonium and potassium nitrate are classified as explosive combustible substances, it must be handled with extreme caution. When using it, smoking is prohibited. Within 1-3 months after filling the holes with reagents, processes begin to actively occur in the wood, the result of which is the release of combustible gases

If you ignore the recommendations regarding making a fire, smoking near the place of processing, then you can provoke negative consequences - an explosion, a fire

Within 1-3 months after filling the holes with reagents, processes begin to actively occur in the wood, which result in the release of combustible gases. If you ignore the recommendations regarding making fire, smoking near the place of processing, then you can provoke negative consequences - an explosion, a fire.

In order to prevent the tree skeletons and their root system from flaring up when burning out, it is necessary to equip a shaft of earth about 50 cm high around. m from the processing area.

It is mandatory to have a fire extinguisher nearby. A watering garden hose connected to the water supply will also work. If such funds are available, then it will be possible to cope with the fire at the very beginning. It is also dangerous for a person to stay on the leeward side of a burning stump, since it releases harmful substances during the combustion process.

It is impossible to pour into the holes, even in a large, even in a small amount of funds, where the active ingredient is glyphosate (Typhoon, Roundup, Santi). They completely destroy wood, but are not able to decompose in the ground. Through plants, their fruits, they penetrate into the human body, and cause serious harm to his health.

Remove stumps quickly and efficiently with saltpeter. This is an easy way to deal with them, which does not require the use of physical effort. The main thing is to follow the basic recommendations, and observe safety measures.

Characteristic features of black elder

Black elder is perhaps one of the most common plants growing in the wild in Ukraine and central Russia. Despite the richness of the chemical composition of the plant, a rather paradoxical situation has developed regarding it, since the plant has not yet been fully studied. Thus, it is worth noting that the advantages and disadvantages of black elderberry have not been fully studied and formulated.

The vast majority of the local population believes that the black elderberry is a representative of poisonous plants, as a result of which plantings of a wild plant are deliberately destroyed. Erroneous ideas about the plant entail a decrease in the population of the crop in human habitats.

Features and description

Visually, the culture is a miniature tree or shrub, the height of which reaches no more than seven meters, but, as a rule, is limited to two or three meters. The plant is characterized by a neat rounded crown, which is formed due to large oblong leaves. They are painted in dark green shades on the front side, as for the back, it may look lighter there. The bark has ash-brown tones, on the old representatives of the black elderberry there are multiple deep cracks.

The flowering period begins in May and lasts at least two subsequent ones. Flowering is accompanied by the formation of numerous inflorescences in the form of flat brushes, which are formed from many miniature flowers of rounded shapes. The flowers can be colored yellow or beige, hang down under their own weight and have a rich sweet aroma.

Starting from August and ending in September, three-stone berries are actively formed on the bushes instead of flowers. The fruits in the process of ripening acquire a purple-black hue, the pulp is poured with juice, the diameter of a ripe berry reaches ten millimeters.

If there are a lot of blackberries

If there are a lot of blackberries, then you have to get rid of them differently. Methods will have to be combined, as well as using more tools for the garden. By the words a lot, it means half the garden, more. In this case, you will first have to work with a scythe and secateurs. That is, cut everything until the stem is equal to 15 centimeters, and the shoots disappear. Then treat with a weed killer. Then cover with spunbond the remains (what is left sticking out).

How to clean the garden from weeds

As long as the chemistry is in effect (about a month), blackberries will crawl out from under the fabric. This cannot be allowed, as there will be no result. A good solution would be to protect the treated area (this is described above). If, for some reason, this cannot be done, then cut off everything that crawls out with a pruner, a shovel. Wait a month. If you follow the instructions it should help. Otherwise, repeat the process, but do not use chemistry, spunbond, but immediately dig out the root.

Methods for uprooting stumps

Experienced gardeners know that getting rid of tree remains is troublesome and difficult, but necessary

And here it is important to choose the most convenient and practical way to uproot stumps. The choice of method is determined by the size of the site and the core of the tree

The main methods of stump removal include:

  1. Mechanical. With the help of technology or special technical devices.
  2. Manual. With the use of small working tools.
  3. Chemical. With the help of chemicals.

Mechanized method

The use of mechanized devices and equipment speeds up the process of removing stumps from the site. Large carcasses of old trees with deep roots can only be removed with the help of machinery. The main thing in the question of how to uproot trees on the site with a tractor remains the criterion for the entrance of equipment to the site

It is also worth noting that the tractor or bulldozer must have a manipulator or truck crane

For mechanical removal of wood residues, you can also use:

  1. Chainsaw. Using this tool will allow you to easily remove old stumps, while saving a lot. With the help of a chainsaw, you can carry out uprooting stumps with your own hands. But with this tool, only the above-ground part of the tree can be eliminated. If you need to remove the root system as well, you will have to use other tools.
  2. Pneumatic crusher. This device has a small size and weight, which allows it to be conveniently carried around the garden plot. It will become indispensable when removing stumps in the territory of densely growing fruit trees. The principle of operation of the rooter is as follows, it crushes wood to the state of sawdust to the entire depth of the stump. After that, the remains are raked out, and the pit can be covered with earth.

Since the use of technology is relatively expensive, you should think about how to get rid of stumps in the country in a simpler and more affordable way.

Manual method

Uprooting stumps in a small household plot can be done with an ordinary shovel and an ax that can be found in any household. If the stump is small, dig it around to a depth of 1 meter. Until the roots are completely exposed, then chop them, and pry the crowbar under the rest. Press firmly on it, and the stump will be completely removed.

Considering more ways to uproot a stump without effort quickly, some resort to the help of fire. To do this, it is necessary to drill holes inside the stump, pour ignition fluid into the openings formed and set fire to it. It is necessary to monitor the access of oxygen to the fire and promptly remove the remaining ash from the burnt part.

If the stump is fresh and there is no way to drill holes, make a fire right on the saw. Over time, the top of the stump will burn out, gradually reaching the roots and the stump can simply be uprooted.

Small single stumps can be removed with a winch. To do this, fasten a cable or a thick rope to the stump, and install the winch on the nearest tree. First dig the tree at a distance of 1-1.5 m from the base to expose the roots. Chop them off with an axe. Now you can use the winch.

If you want to know how to remove tree roots without using machinery, you can use ordinary water. At a distance of one meter around the stump, they dig a hole and begin to wash out the soil under the pressure of water. After the roots are well washed out, the stump will hang and the roots can be cut. After that, the stump is easy to remove.

Chemical method

Remaining felled trees can be removed using special chemicals. This method is very simple and convenient, does not require a lot of money and time. But it should be remembered that the use of any chemicals leads to contamination of the soil.

After the chemical removal of stumps, the soil will not be suitable for sowing for 3 years.

To remove the remains of saw cuts in the garden, use:

The use of saltpeter among summer residents is the most popular way to get rid of stumps. The meaning of the use is that saltpeter is added to the stump, and a year later it is set on fire. Thanks to saltpeter, the top saw cut and the roots of the tree burn out completely in a short time, after which the remaining ash is removed.

Urea is used in a similar way. Urea is filled into the drilled holes, the stump is wrapped with plastic wrap and nothing will remain of it by the next season.

If you are making room for future construction, you can use ordinary table salt. To do this, after sawing the skeleton of the tree, sprinkle it abundantly with salt. Mixing with rainwater, it will saturate the wood and turn the stump into dust.

Advantages and disadvantages of Agrokiller

Herbicide is characterized by fast action - it destroys weeds after the first treatment.

Agrokiller has several advantages over other preparations:

  • high concentration of the active substance ensures the rapid destruction of perennial weeds that are difficult to remove;
  • the drug does not cause any harm to the seeds, it only affects the stems and foliage, so it can be used immediately after sowing;
  • the withering away of the root system and the death of the weed plant occurs within 6-8 days after the treatment of the garden or vegetable garden;
  • sudden changes in air temperature do not affect the effectiveness of the herbicide, so it can be used both in early spring and summer.

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The active substances contained in Agrokiller do not cause any harm to the soil, do not reduce its productivity, and do not harm the future harvest. After contact with the soil surface, the herbicide breaks down into separate components that do not worsen the composition of the soil. Cultivated plants on the site can be planted already 14 days after spraying with Agrokiller.

Shrub description

The plant can be found in the Northern Hemisphere, where the temperate and subtropical climate prevails, as well as on the Australian continent. Its qualities have been known since ancient times. For the ancient Greeks, the plant was the material for making musical instruments. It is believed that the Latin name comes from the oriental instrument sambuca. For many peoples, elderberry is sacred and helps protect the house from evil spirits.
Elderberry, popular among the people, also has popular names: sambuk, elderflower, buzovnik, pishchalnik and wasteland.
Black elderberry is the most beneficial species for humans. For its cultivation, planting and care, no special skills are required, and the garden will acquire an unusual chic look.
The black elder plant is of two types:

  • shrub;
  • low tree, the height of which varies from 2 to 6 meters.

Black elder needs a description. Remember that at a certain period of time it can be easily confused with the red variety of elderberry. Therefore, wait until the berries are completely ripe.
Branched stems have a white porous core, covered with a thin woody sheath, which is green on young branches, later changing to brownish-gray. The leaves, located opposite on the roots, have an elongated pointed shape. Their length ranges from 10 to 30 cm. Multi-flowered flat inflorescences reach a diameter of 25 cm. The flowers of the plant have a creamy or dirty yellow tint and exude a pleasant aroma. The flowering period is May - early June. Berries, reaching a diameter of 7 mm, have dark red flesh and several seeds. The fruits ripen in late August - early September, at which time they become almost black. People appreciated the tree. Elderberry fruits contain many substances beneficial to human health, such as:

  • glucose;
  • carotene;
  • vitamin C;
  • fructose;
  • potassium;
  • amino acids;
  • tannins.

Stump Removal Technology with Saltpeter

In order for a chemical preparation to destroy quickly and effectively, it is necessary to adhere to the relevant rules. This method is suitable where it is possible to burn the rest of the tree. Since the action of saltpeter (potassium, ammonium) is not aimed at the destruction of the plant object, but only at increasing its degree of combustibility. As a result of using this reagent, the roots begin to ignite even from a spark, a weak fire.

The principle of using saltpeter is to perform the following actions:

Using a drill, make holes on sawn stumps, vertically, with a diameter of 10-15 mm. If the trunk is damaged, then it is drilled, covering the entire perimeter. The optimal distance between the recesses is 5-10 cm. When drilling from the outside, they maintain an angle of 20-40 ° C, so that saltpeter crystals will not spill out of the holes.
Fill the recesses in the stump to the top with reagent.
Spray with water to settle.
Seal the holes with cork (wooden, plasticine, clay). For the manufacture of a wooden plug, a thick branch is suitable, it should fit tightly, if necessary, it can even be hammered. Excess branches are not cut, otherwise you can loosen the cork. For clay stoppers use clay mixed with a small amount of water

Here it is important to achieve the consistency of a thick dough.
After a couple of years, the stump must be dug up and a fire made around it. It is important to control this process in order to prevent the spread of fire to nearby buildings, garden plantations, and grass.

While the stump is maturing under the influence of saltpeter, the soil around it will be saturated with nitrogen. Due to this, fruit and berry crops planted at a distance of 4-5 m will actively grow and produce abundant crops. It is at this distance from the place of burning the stump that the nitrate indicator is at a safe level.

When the stump has already been destroyed, the resulting pit should be filled with old or new earth, after which crops with a rapid increase in green mass should be planted. In the fall, all foliage must be collected from such plants and disposed of in order to get rid of nitrogenous compounds.

For the next season, the cultivated area will be suitable for growing both agricultural and ornamental crops. If this is not provided for in the future, but work is planned on the construction of various kinds of buildings, then you should not wait, you can start in the same year, as soon as the pit cools down.

Chemical stump removal is not recommended for peaty soils. Since peat can quickly ignite, a fire will start underground, which is unlikely to be extinguished. Especially if the scale is huge.

Stump burning.

This
is a fairly quick way to remove a stump. Unlike soaking the stump with saltpeter,
this method does not require much time and leaves intact roots from the stump in
soil. To avoid an underground fire, this method cannot be used on
peat soils.

There are two ways to burn
stump.

A metal barrel without a bottom can be mounted on the stump
. In this barrel, you need to periodically burn
garbage and over time the stump will burn out completely. This method is best for
for a fresh, freshly sawn stump.

It is possible to make a so-called Finnish candle from a stump
. This method is suitable for dry stumps.
Fresh stumps will go out frequently.

First, a hole is drilled in the center of the stump. The hole diameter should not be too small. A diameter of 20mm is best.

We drill a hole in the center of the stump.

After the side of the stump, a second hole must be drilled so that it connects with the first hole. This side opening is necessary to supply air to the combustion zone. For better air supply, several side holes can be drilled.

Drilling side holes in the stump

Pour 100-200 ml of diesel fuel or charcoal lighter liquid into the hole, which is used when cooking barbecue.

Pour flammable liquid into the hole.

We make a wick from cotton fabric and moisten it with a combustible liquid. We lower the wick into the hole.

Making a wick.

We set fire to the wick and wait until the whole stump burns out.

Ignite the wick.

If the stump does not ignite the first time, then you need to add small dry branches and repeat the arson again.

The stump flared up.
Stump flared up.
Only a pile of ash remains from the stump.

Total

In order to get rid of the stumps of felled trees along with the roots, you can use several methods:

  1. Mechanized uprooting. In the presence of a convenient entrance for special equipment and the absence of closely growing crops, it is best to use the services of a tractor driver or bulldozer operator.
  2. Manual uprooting. This method is quite labor-intensive, but it is safe for crops growing on your site.
  3. Chemical methods. Saltpeter, urea, salt and herbicides will help you destroy the stump and root system of a sawn tree, but not immediately, but after 1-3 years.

Choose the method that works best for you based on your plans for the use of the vacant lot. If time does not “burn”, wait until the stump with roots decomposes under the action of urea, and if you urgently need to do some landscape work, uproot the stump and bring beauty to the country house.

Black elderberry is a bright and useful addition to the garden. Photo — Botanichka

You may have seen elderberry in the wild along roadsides, forests and stream banks. Until quite recently, we did not think of elder as an ornamental shrub. But today there are many varieties with attractive green, almost black or yellow foliage. In addition to the role of a bright addition to the garden, elderberry has a lot of other useful properties. I suggest you learn more about it.

Black elderberry - a bright and useful addition to the garden

Botanical information

Black elderberry (Sambucus nigra) is a dense large shrub or small tree up to 6 m tall. Native to Central Europe and North America, the shrub usually grows along roadsides, forest edges and abandoned fields. Elderberry has complex, feathery dark green leaves that turn pale yellow in autumn. Each leaf consists of 3-7 serrated, ovate or elliptical leaflets (up to 15 centimeters in length). When cut or crushed, elderberry leaves have a characteristic unpleasant odor.

At the beginning of summer, flat fragrant bunches bloom on the bush. Each inflorescence contains hundreds of tiny, five-petalled, radially symmetrical flowers. These delicate flowers attract pollinating insects such as bees and butterflies.
After flowering, the flowers are replaced by almost black small berries, which are edible and quite pleasant in taste, but they can only be eaten when fully ripe.

Black elderberry (Sambucus nigra) is a dense, large shrub or small tree up to 6 m tall

Black elderberry varieties

Along with the red elderberry varieties, there are several decorative black elderberry varieties used in landscape design.

Black Elderberry 'Black Lace' (Sambucus nigra ‘Black Lace’) . The shrub has intense purple-black foliage, thin and carved like lace. This form of foliage gives the elderberry a strong resemblance to the Japanese maple. Some designers do use it instead of more sensitive plants to mimic a Japanese garden. Pale pink flowers appear in early summer and contrast effectively with dark leaves. In autumn, the foliage turns deep red. The height of the bush is 1.5 - 2 m, the width is 2 meters.

Black Lace Elder (Sambucus nigra ‘Black Lace’)

Marginata Elder (Sambucus nigra ‘Marginata’) – variegated elderberry variety. In spring, small white flowers bloom on the plant, smelling of musk. They are replaced by spectacular clusters of glossy black berries in late summer. But the main attraction is dark green leaves with a yellow border. The height of the bush is 3 m, the width is 2.5 m. There is also a variety "Madonna" (Sambucus nigra ‘Madonna’), which looks very similar to it.

Golden Tower Elderberry (Sambucus nigra ‘Golden Tower’) . This is an unusual columnar elderberry with a narrower and more upright habit, making it suitable for small gardens. The foliage is deeply dissected pinnate, bright golden-green. Blooms in summer with clusters of white flowers. The height of the bush is up to 2 meters with a width of 80 centimeters.

Marginata elderberry (Sambucus nigra ‘Marginata’) © farmyardnurseries Golden Tower elderberry (Sambucus nigra ‘Golden Tower’) © starrosesandplantsBlack Tower elderberry (Sambucus nigra ‘Black Tower’) © ornamental-trees

Black Tower Elderberry (Sambucus nigra ‘Black Tower’) . Columnar form of elderberry with dark purple foliage. The pinnate leaf segments are quite wide with a serrated edge and a glossy sheen. Blooms with pink flowers. Bush about 2 meters high, up to 90 cm wide.

Black Beauty Elderberry (Sambucus nigra ‘Black Beauty’) . The shrub has jagged dark purple dissected foliage. Unlike the 'Black Lace' variety, the 'Black Beauty' elderberry foliage has broader segments and the leaves are not as carved. This variety also blooms pink flowers, while they have a pronounced lemon aroma. The height of the bush is 2.5 meters and 2 meters wide.

Black Beauty Elderberry (Sambucus nigra ‘Black Beauty’)

In addition to its decorative value, all the varieties described above produce abundant clusters of edible black berries. However, the elderberry is a cross-pollinated plant: in order for the berries to appear, it is required to plant several varieties.

Black elderberry cultivation

Elderberry can often be found in the wild along the banks of rivers and streams. It does not really mind heavy watering or flooding for short periods of time, but since its root system is shallow, excess moisture must evaporate as quickly as possible, otherwise the shrub will die.

Choose an area with full sun or light shade for your plants to grow well. Elderberry produces more flowers and more attractive foliage color when grown outdoors.

Elderberry tolerates clay soils better than many shrubs, but will grow best when planted in well-draining, slightly calcareous, and high humus soil.

Feed elderberries with a balanced fertilizer twice a season: once in spring and once in summer.

When pruning elderberry, keep in mind that the plant flowers and bears fruit on the young shoots of the current year. This means that the correct time to prune this shrub is late winter or early spring. Shearing will ensure vigorous growth and will keep the shrubs from overgrowing.

As the bush matures, the woody stems become weaker, making the plant less attractive. Removing old stems will direct more energy to young ornamental shoots.

Landscape Elderberry

Elderberry may vary in size and density depending on growing conditions. In deep shade, the shrubs can be up to one and a half meters tall and sparse and sparse, while their counterparts growing in rich soil in full sun can reach three to four meters in height and be up to three meters in diameter.

It's a showy, vibrant and flexible plant, so why not include it in your landscape design as an accent plant, a shady garden plant or even a hedge? Elderberry will also look good in a mixborder as screen plants and backgrounds. Bright foliage is eye-catching throughout the season, while lush buds and glossy berries serve as an additional decorative accent.

These shrubs are definitely beautiful enough to be the centerpiece of any garden. They are also excellent candidates for wind and dust protection when planted along roadsides and fences. Elderberry is an excellent plant that attracts songbirds, butterflies, bees and other wild animals to the garden.

Although some varieties can grow quite large, they are easy to shear. You can easily prune young plants and shape them into a single stemmed tree. When the elder turns into a "tree", it takes up less space in the garden.

In addition to its high decorative qualities, the elderberry makes a valuable contribution to the ecosystem. The plant provides food and shelter for many bird species and nectar for pollinating insects. Elder also helps repair areas damaged by construction, logging, construction vehicles, or fire.

Elderberry is an excellent plant that attracts songbirds, butterflies, bees and other wild animals to the garden. They are also a good candidate for wind and dust protection when planted along roadsides and fences

Elderberry natural pesticide

Elderberry can also be useful in the garden because its dried leaves can be turned into a natural pesticide that repels sucking and chewing insects. To do this, boil a glass of dried black elderberry leaves in a liter of water for 15-20 minutes, keeping the pot covered. Remove saucepan from heat and cool completely. Strain the decoction through a double layer of cheesecloth.

To use the infusion, add a liter of cool water and a few drops of any biological dishwashing detergent to make the decoction stick to the leaves of the plants. Use this spray to control aphids, cabbage bugs and other chewing, sucking pests. Also, a decoction of elderberry leaves has some effectiveness in fighting fungal infections, including downy mildew and black spot.

Black elderberry in cooking

Elder flowers are more than just beautiful, they are also delicious. Candied elderberry flowers are easy to prepare and have a long shelf life. Freshly picked flowers can be sprinkled on greens or fruit salads, frozen into flower ice cubes, and added to drinks.

Wine or light liqueurs are particularly tasty when added with elderflowers. They can even be made into syrup or fermented with pears to make a light, flowery fruity wine.

Elderberry makes for a variety of tempting treats, including pie and pastry fillings. Juices, jams, preserves, seasonings, compotes, sauces, syrups, elderberry "raisins" and much more are made from them. Elderberry wine is popular in some places.

Juices, jams, marmalades, seasonings, compotes, sauces, syrups, elderberry "raisins" and much more are made from elderberry berries. In addition, elderberries make delicious wine

Healing properties of elder

Elder flowers are traditionally used by herbalists to make a mild medicinal tea. It is used to treat diarrhea, fever, headache, and conditions associated with inflammation in the body. Topically, elderflower infusions have been used to reduce freckles, age spots, and improve the overall condition of the skin. Dried elder flowers can also be used as a hemostatic agent for wounds.

In addition to being tasty, elderberries are also healing. Historically, elderberry has been used to make cough syrups and sore throats. Elderberries contain more vitamin C than any other fruit (except black currants). They are rich in protein and contain vitamin A, B1, B2, B3, calcium, iron and phosphorus. Black elderberry extract is a proven immunostimulant with antiviral and anti-inflammatory properties.


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