How to get rid of locust trees

Black Locust Control | Missouri Department of Conservation


NOTE: Although the following guideline is written for black locust, the control methods will also be effective for honey locust (Gleditsia triacanthos L.). Honey locust can be controlled more easily than black locust using the methods outlined below because it does not readily form root sprouts.

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Black locust invades dry or moist open woodlands, stream valleys, pastures, thickets and roadsides. It can be found in upland forest natural areas where it becomes established along ridge-top logging roads, at old home sites, or in openings following natural tree fall. Eroded areas along streams also provide potential habitat for seedling establishment.

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Black locust leaves and seed pod



Dozing may be practical consideration on some sites. A black locust of 300 plants was established in 1963 at the Elsberry Plant Materials Center near Elsberry, Missouri. Removal of the mature stand occurred in about 1987. Bulldozing, piling, and burning of trees followed by cultivation and planting of soybeans effectively eliminated root sprouts and seed germination. Monitor dozed sites for sprouting from roots or seed germination and follow-up with mechanical or chemical treatment. Roundup, Krenite or Garlon may be used to treat any sprouts that appear.

Aerial application of herbicide

Aerial spraying with Krenite works well on degraded sites having dense, tall infestations.


Black locust is difficult to control due to its rapid growth and clonal spread. Mowing and burning largely have proven only temporarily effective due to the tree's ability to spread vegetatively. As a result, management has concentrated on chemical control with variable success. Whatever control measure is adopted, a follow-up treatment is usually necessary.


Spread of black locust can be hindered by repeated cutting during the growing season. All stems should be cut, and new stems that appear subsequently should also be removed in the same growing season. This treatment will probably need to be repeated for several years to achieve adequate control. Annual haying may be adequate to control first year seedlings and prevent spreading in prairie communities.


Best success with herbicides has resulted from basal bark application of herbicides to live standing trees. This should be done when trees are small and thin-barked (6 inches or less DBH). It is not as effective on larger trees. This method minimizes re-sprouting from roots and stumps when applied between mid-July and the end of December. Remedy (a formulation of triclopyr) is recommended at a 2-percent solution in diesel fuel. Spray basal part of brush or trees to a height of 15 to 20 inches above the ground. Thoroughly wet all basal bark areas, including crown buds and ground sprouts. A thorough spraying that includes spraying until run-off at the ground line is noticed is necessary to hinder re-sprouting. Applications in periods of dry weather will aid in root control.

Basal bark treatment with Garlon 4 (triclopyr) can also be effective, although re-sprouting has occurred in at least one instance with this treatment. Two to two and one-half oz. of Garlon 4 is added to one gallon of diesel fuel. Follow same directions as with Remedy. Great care should be exercised to avoid getting any of the mixtures on the ground near the target plant since some non-target species may be harmed. Diesel fuel may kill vegetation around the target tree. Avoid using triclopyr if rain is forecast for the following one to four days; otherwise runoff will harm non-target species.

Pelleted herbicides are discouraged because leaching could occur, affecting native woody plants. A variety of sprays are available for foliage or cut stump treatment, but these methods will probably require more follow-up treatments than the basal bark applications. Krenite (a formulation of forsamine ammonium) is a non-volatile, contact, brush herbicide, applied as a spray to leaves usually during the two-month period before fall coloration. Krenite should be applied only in July through September. Thorough coverage with a soft water carrier is required and a nonionic surfactant will improve results. A 1-percent solution applied as a foliar spray is effective. Krenite inhibits bud expansion in the spring, and control effects are not seen until the following spring. Slight regrowth may occur the following season but saplings will die during summer. Follow label recommendations to obtain best results; minimize drift. Care should be taken to avoid contacting non-target species.

Garlon 3A (a formulation of triclopyr) is a selective translocated herbicide that can be applied as a foliar or cut-surface treatment. Cut-surface treatment provides a high level of control of tree root systems, especially for suckering species such as black locust. Cut-surface application can be made during any season of the year, but application during the dormant season reduces the potential for drift injury. Undiluted or diluted Garlon 3A at a rate of 50-percent water can either be sprayed on the cut surface using a hand sprayer or else wiped on the cut surface using a sponge applicator (sponge-type paint applicators can be used). Either a stump or a girdle can be used for the cut surface. Girdles around the stem can be made quickly, using a chainsaw. Application should be within a few hours of cutting, adhering closely to label precautions and directions.

Crossbow may be sprayed on cut stumps at a 1-percent or 1.5-percent rate in the early fall, well before freezing. This kills small saplings, however suckering, partial greenup of treated trees and germination of seed may continue for a couple of years.

Glyphosate (trade name Roundup) can be foliar-sprayed on black locust leaves as a control when trees are actively growing. For good control, all leaves on all shoots should be treated. Roundup should be applied by hand sprayer at a 0.5- to 1.5-percent solution (0.6 to 2 ounces of Roundup per gallon of clean water). Spray coverage should be uniform and complete. Do not spray so heavily that herbicide drips off the target species.

Black locust stems can be cut at the base with brush-cutters, chainsaws or hand tools, followed by treating the stump with a 20-percent solution of Roundup. While the Roundup label recommends a 50- to 100-percent concentration of herbicide for stump treatment, a 20-percent concentration has proven effective. The herbicide should be applied either by spraying individual stumps using a hand held sprayer or by wiping each stump with a sponge applicator. Treatment should occur immediately after cutting for best results. Application in late summer, early fall or the dormant season has proven effective.

Glyphosate is a nonselective herbicide, so care should be taken to not let it come in contact with non-target species. Foliar spray of glyphosate should not be used in high quality areas because of problems with spraying non-target species.

In general, foliar spray application of herbicides should not be used in high quality areas because of potential damage to non-target plants. Herbicide application to cut stumps or cut surfaces is preferred in high-quality natural areas because this minimizes damage to non-target plants.

Any herbicide should be applied while backing away from the treated area to avoid walking through the wet herbicide. By law, herbicides only may be applied according to label directions. As mentioned earlier, follow-up treatments are usually necessary because of black locust's prolific sprouting and rapid growth.

Biological Control

The locust borer, Megacylline robinine, can cause serious injury and disfigurement to black locust. However, no information is available on the use of the borer as a control method.


Tordon RTU (picloram) is a premixed general use herbicide labeled for cut-surface applications only. This herbicide kills treated black locust stems, but vigorous sprouts develop from roots. Stump treatments that do not effectively control the tree's root system may necessitate several additional years of foliar treatment of root sprouts. Tordon RTU has high soil mobility and persistence, and is no longer labeled for use on sandy soils.

Girdling kills the black locust stem that is girdled, but it does not prevent the formation of suckers.

Mowing areas around mature trees where seed pods have dropped seems to promote seed germination.

Fire kills the main stems but prolific sprouting results.


How to Stop Locust Trees From Spreading | Home Guides

By Doug Johnson Updated October 05, 2020

Locust trees (Robinia spp.) have become a real problem in areas where the locust trees sprout everywhere as an invasive species. According to the Missouri Department of Conservation, mowing and burning attempts to remove the trees from the regions in which they are invasive have been successful only in the short term. If you live in one those places where the trees are undesirable, however, some methods are available to help keep them away from gardens and lawns. Ridding the landscape of the locust trees can also aid in conservation.

Locust Tree: The Basics

According to Encyclopaedia Britannica, locust trees are members of a genus containing around 10 members of flowering trees and shrubs that grow in North America. Black locust (Robinia pseudoacacia), which, according to the Missouri Botanical Garden, grows in USDA zones 3 to 8, is, in some cases, grown as an ornamental. The same is true for the honey locust (Gleditsia triacanthos), which also grows in zones 3 to 8. The trees are members of the pea family.

These deciduous trees have long compound leaves, made up of up to 21 leaflets, and many species contain thorns. They flower in loose clusters and produce long legumes as fruit. The trees are also easy to grow, which has helped them spread and become invasive in many areas, including the Midwest.

Honey Locust Control

The best way to kill black locust is also the best way to kill honey locust. Controlling either species is a difficult task, considering their rapid growth and, in the case of black locust trees, their ability to spread quickly through self-seeding and root suckers. As a first, preemptive step, try to identify root suckers quickly and remove them equally as quickly. Sadly, in most cases, regardless of the treatment chosen, performing it again to control the trees is usually required.

One method of honey locust control and black locust control is to cut back the trees every growing season. Cut both new stems and new growth—you likely will need to repeat this step several times over the years. Spreading hay over the area could help prevent new trees from sprouting. In areas where it's possible, bulldozing, pilling and burning methods the trees have also been employed, but this seems less practical for most home gardeners.

Other Methods of Control

Honey locust control using herbicides works best when applying the compounds to the basal bark, particularly when they are small and thin. It does not work at all for larger trees. The best herbicides for honey locust control or black locust control contain Triclopyr. Using pelleted herbicides is not a good idea since leaching could occur and harm desirable plants in the region. Instead, opt for sprays, but bear in mind this effort could take several years.

Glyphosate, or Roundup, can also be sprayed on black locust foliage while the trees are still growing. Spray heavily, but not heavy enough that it begins to drip off the black locust tree onto other plants, as glyphosate is a non-selective herbicide. It kills everything it touches. Research studies suggest that the locust borer insect can seriously harm the trees, but so far, there is no information about its viability as a control method. It's important to stay patient when dealing with these trees.


  • Missouri Department of Conservation: Black Locust Control
  • Missouri Botanical Garden: Robinia Pseudoacacia
  • Missouri Botanical Garden: Gleditsia Triacanthos
  • Encyclopaedia Britannica: Locust Tree


  • While it might seem a detriment to the environment to kill any tree, you actually help the environment when you kill invasive species. Invasive species are introduced to environments where they have no natural control measures, which allows them to spread quickly and in many cases, choke out or kill native vegetation.
  • Honey locust (Gleditsia spp.) is another locust that can become an invasive pest, although it belongs to a different genus than black locust. Also grown in zones 3 through 8, you can employ the same control measure to kill and stop the spread of this tree species.

Writer Bio

Doug Johnson is a Canadian writer, editor and journalist.

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Removing extra trees and bushes from a garden plot is not an easy job. With one shovel, this process is difficult to complete. However, there are special chemicals to destroy unwanted vegetation. They are able to cope with the problem in a short time and with minimal effort.


  • Herbicide Applications
    • Ground Application
    • Bark Application
    • Slit
    • Injection
    • Foliar Spray
  • How to water trees to dry them out
  • How to prepare poison for plants at home
    • Using salt section
      • Features of uprooting willow
    • Answer
      • Effective methods
    • How to destroy weeds on the site (video)
      • Decisive methods

    Herbicide applications

    Herbicides for the destruction of shrubs and trees act directly on the structure of the plant, help to get rid of it without cutting it down. After the action of such substances, it remains only to uproot the remaining stump.

    Herbicide spraying is carried out in protective clothing

    Fast-acting herbicide is best used to kill several bushes at once. It can be used in several ways: treat the soil at the roots, apply to the bark, inject through holes in the wood and as an injection.

    Adding to the soil

    Water the soil before adding the product to the soil. This promotes better absorption of herbicides. A dye is sometimes added to the solution to mark the treated areas. Means watered the soil around the trunk.

    The substance can also be applied in powder form by covering the soil next to the trunk. But it is more effective to bury it in the soil and water it.

    Important! When processing, it is necessary to avoid getting the chemical directly on the roots. You also need to work in protective clothing, making sure that the herbicide does not get on it.

    Application to bark

    This method is useful in situations where it is necessary to selectively destroy unnecessary woody vegetation. The agent is applied to the bark. This method does not work on trees with thick bark.

    The preparation is mixed with oil before application for good absorption. The herbicide is applied in several layers so that the required amount of the substance can be absorbed into the tree bark.

    Incisions for pouring the solution are best done with an ax

    Through cuts

    This method, like the previous one, is suitable for removing bushes and thin trees. However, the chemistry will also affect the thick bark if deep cuts are made. The agent is applied to dry wood. The solution must be plentifully processed precisely incisions.


    Excess vegetation can be destroyed by injection. This method spares nearby growing plants from chemical ingress.

    First make holes in the bark. Herbicide is injected into these holes with a special spraying device.

    Please note! This method is effective against shrubs. It helps to get rid of extra trees pointwise, without damaging the ones growing nearby.

    Injection through holes in the trunk

    Foliar spraying

    Foliar application is required in spring or early autumn. In the heat, the effectiveness of the method decreases. The procedure is carried out in calm weather. It is necessary to carefully spray the foliage, not missing a single area. If everything is done correctly, the leaves will begin to turn brown after a short time.

    Other chemicals for killing trees

    In addition to herbicides, other chemicals for killing trees are used: arboricides and homemade solutions.

    Arboricides for the destruction of trees

    Arboricides are herbicides and are aimed at controlling unwanted shrubs on the site. Arboricides are distinguished by a high concentration of substances acting on vegetation. Before starting treatment, you must familiarize yourself with the dosage and safety measures.

    Important! After treatment with arboricides, you can not pick berries or mushrooms nearby.


    To clear the site of unnecessary vegetation, a special preparation is used - arboricide, which is called "Arsenal". The chemical is used to destroy deciduous as well as coniferous trees.


    Widely known arboricide for the destruction of large weeds called "Roundup". It is used in garden plots, as well as plantings and public parks. The tool copes well with both deciduous and coniferous species.

    • must not be mixed with other drugs.

    Sodium nitrate

    Sodium nitrate is widely used in stump removal. She processes the soil around the trunk and the stump itself. Regular treatment with sodium nitrate destroys it in a year. It will dry completely and be ready for disposal.

    Ammonium nitrate

    The urea contained in ammonium nitrate is very dangerous. The tool destroys wood well. Tillage kills the root, which then turns into a useful fertilizer.


    Treatment with a chemical disrupts the process of photosynthesis in plant cells, and also stops the synthesis of bioactive acids. Soon the plant withers, dries up and dies.

    Tree Killer Roundup

    This chemical requires special attention. It was invented in America, but gained popularity all over the world. The unique potent composition of the arboricide effectively fights unwanted vegetation.

    Product Description

    Roundup is sold in three different versions:

    • Regular, with the lowest concentration of the active ingredient - 360 grams per liter of water.
    • Maximum - 450 grams per 1 liter of water.
    • Extra, with the highest concentration - 550 grams is added to 1 liter of water.

    Ingredients and how it works

    Arboricide contains a surfactant that increases the stickiness of the substance and glyphosate, which slows down the growth of vegetation.

    After spraying, the substance penetrates into the plant through the foliage and trunk. Active ingredients help stop growth. A week later, the plant dries up and dies.

    Please note! The strong composition of Roundup kills all plants, so it is necessary to handle it very carefully.

    Which weeds Roundup fights

    This arboricide is intended for the following weeds:

    • cereals;
    • spines;
    • dandelions;
    • weed bushes and trees;
    • thistle;

    It is also suitable for other annuals and perennials that are unnecessary on the site.

    How to use the drug

    The treatment is done in calm, dry and clear weather. The older the tree, the more the drug is consumed. When processing, it is necessary to wear protective clothing, be sure to cover your hands and face from getting arboricide on the skin. It is important to follow the correct dosage of Roundup indicated on the package.

    Roundup is a very effective tool with many advantages

    Pros and cons of Roundup


    • high efficiency;
    • ease of use;
    • low cost;
    • long acting;
    • soil safety;
    • effectiveness against weeds.


    • high toxicity;
    • careless contact with other crops quickly destroys them;
    • must not be mixed with other drugs.

    How to water the trees to dry them out

    If you can't choose from commercial products how to water the shrub so that it dries out, try alternative options. Strong agents will be required: urea, a strong concentrate of nitrogen fertilizer or gasoline. Instead of gasoline, kerosene can be used as a means for the rapid destruction of trees and shrubs.

    Important! Oil products quickly destroy trees, but poison the soil.

    Bushes are well destroyed by urea. The process will be long, but this substance will not poison the soil. For small bushes, oxygen is blocked to the root system, that is, the near-stem areas are filled with cement.

    How to prepare plant poison at home

    A good way to get rid of unwanted vegetation is to treat with vinegar solution. 100 grams of citric acid or lemon juice is added to a liter of 20% vinegar. This solution is sprayed on the top of the plants.

    Use of salt

    Sodium chloride or table salt is an enemy of vegetation. To prepare the poison, you need to add 2 cups of salt to 4 liters of water. After the crystals are completely dissolved, you need to sprinkle the ground part of the plants.

    In fact, getting rid of weed trees and bushes can be done quickly and easily. You can prepare an effective poison for plants at home. The main thing is to competently approach the procedure, and carry out the treatment with chemicals very carefully so as not to damage the “necessary” plants.

    Willow and other fast-growing wild trees are a real disaster for summer residents, because the fight against undergrowth can last for many years in various ways. The rapid development of shoots is especially observed in areas with high humidity and rich in minerals and organic matter. The problem of how to get rid of willow in a summer cottage concerns almost every summer resident, because. shoots can "come" even from neighboring adjacent territories.

    In what cases and why it is necessary to get rid of willow and shrubs

    how the site will be used and what are the conditions for the events:

    • drugs don't choose who to act on. The herbicide is relevant only in large areas or when used locally with security measures.
    • In cases where there is a well on the site and water is used, the use of herbicides is generally not possible, because. chemicals penetrate deep into the soil, which leads to pollution of groundwater. For the same reason, it is extremely rarely allowed to use caustic reagents with a high location of groundwater, because. even local use leads to a large distribution of the drug.
    • When a large site planning is planned with the creation of landscape design and soil filling, only mechanical destruction is promising. This is especially easy to implement in cases where heavy equipment is driven onto the site.
    • If a site with overgrowth and willow will be used for building or organizing a hard surface, then it is enough to cut down all the trunks and kill the root system. This can be done fairly quickly in a variety of ways.

    It is worth considering that since it is quite difficult to get rid of willow in a summer cottage, in some cases it is promising to apply several methods of vegetation destruction at once. At the same time, one should not forget that the lack of regular struggle leads to the re-growth of shrubs with renewed vigor, and sometimes even with enhanced growth.

    Lack of control of unwanted vegetation leads to constant depletion of the land, but it must be remembered that the extermination of moisture-loving plants can lead to a rise in the groundwater level, which is recommended to be controlled or measures taken in advance to drain the soil. Clearing the site of plantings also leads to weathering of the soil without replenishment of organic matter, which leads to the need for periodic soil fertilization.

    Ways to get rid of willow in the summer cottage

    There are so many effective ways to deal with fast-growing trees and shrubs, and they are divided into related categories:

    • Professional, when methods are used that are suitable even on an industrial scale. These include chemical reagents and specialized devices, mechanisms.
    • Folk methods - in principle, time-tested and quite affordable for every summer resident, therefore, before getting rid of willow in a summer cottage in professional expensive ways, they are used first of all. Household chemicals, garden tools and improvised means are the basis of such methods.
    • Chemical methods are highly effective, but a strong toxic effect requires restrictions, dosage and application rules. It is actively used in large-scale preparation of the territory, when there is at least a year left to disperse harmful substances.
    • Mechanical methods require both physical effort and financial costs for fixtures. Efficiency directly depends on the soil treatment technique used, as well as the effort invested. For example, the scale of removal of rhizomes and the technique used can lead to completely different results.

    Peculiarities of uprooting willow

    Digging up the rhizomes of undergrowth and trees can lead to different results, but it must be remembered that the main goal is not to remove the roots themselves from the soil, but to kill them. For this reason, the removal of the root system is not always carried out after the removal of the trunks, but on the contrary, leaving the stumps makes it possible to put the root buds to sleep.

    Exposure of the trunk to strong herbicides allows the chemical to penetrate deep into the root system, which does not lead to local death of a part of the plant, but to the death of the entire plant. Digging up hemp is promising after a month or at least a week. You can not dig out the stumps at all, but burn them, for which deep large-diameter holes are drilled in it, into which saltpeter (fertilizer) is placed with abundant watering. In this state, it is necessary to leave for several days so that the saltpeter penetrates deeply, and the wood itself dries up. Ignition of a stump leads to its slow burning (smoldering), which continues even underground. It is promising to remove the shoots and water with herbicides in the fall, when there is a natural outflow of juices into the rhizomes, which ensures the deep penetration of the chemical deep into the plants. It is possible to kill the rhizomes of most trees without the use of chemicals - it is enough to dig up the rhizomes in the form of a large hole and leave them to dry, which will lead to the death of the entire plant.

    We received a question from Olga: “Several years ago we bought a plot of land. On its territory there are several bushes of old rose hips, which we cannot get rid of. What can you advise us?"

    We answer

    Effective methods

    There is such a drug "Tornado". It is a herbicide. You can buy such a tool in the same place where they sell chemicals or poisons for the garden.

    Use this preparation as follows:

    • Small incisions are made on the plants, and a solution of the substance is applied to them.
    • After 7 days, both the plant and its roots will die.

    This is the easiest way to get rid of wild rose bushes. If it is not possible to completely remove the bushes, cut the slate around it from all sides to the depth of the roots, then the wild rose will not germinate further.

    The surest way is to dig up all the growth. The thing is that the root offspring of the wild rose can germinate over long distances, capturing the entire territory of the site. The only way to remedy the situation is to dig by hand. Other methods do not guarantee that new young rosehip sprouts will not appear next year. Before removing the roots, cut the shrub itself.

    You can find out more about the use of herbicides.

    How to kill weeds on the plot (video)

    Decisive methods

    If an ax and a shovel did not give the desired effect, it is worth trying chemical methods, but in a special way. As herbicides, you can use not only the above drug, but also those products based on glyphos: Secateurs, Roundup. They are also sold in gardening and gardening stores.

    During the procedure, some rules must be observed:

    • increase the dosage by 5 times compared to the instructions;
    • all herbicide treatments are carried out in autumn;
    • after processing, there is no need to water the shrub or cut its branches.

    Rosehip will not die instantly. The next year, he can again give growth. In this case, you will have to repeat the procedure. After that, the issue will be finally resolved.

    If none of the above methods help, you will have to call the tractor. He uproots the bush with a bucket like a shovel. This is the most effective method in overgrown areas. In other options, you will have to use manual labor, and it is not a fact that the result will please you.

    To make sure everything works out, collect the rosehip roots left on the surface after processing with the technique. If this is not done, the shrub may sprout again.

    You can also try to burn the wild rose, but in this case you will have to act very carefully.

    This method is only suitable for areas where there is a minimum number of plants and they are located away from the bush.

    Do we leave the young shoots in the garden or do we remove them?


    Acacia: leave the young shoots in the garden or remove them?

    • Useful properties of
    • Use in food
    • How to get rid of the root growth of acacia


    • Life hacks and tips for gardeners
    • Acacia: leave the young shoots in the garden or remove?


    Acacia is distributed throughout the world. The flowering of the tree falls in mid-May, when it is covered with clusters of yellow or white flowers. Now the acacia does not particularly impress anyone, but earlier gardens were planted with this tree, and flowers were actively used in the treatment of certain diseases.

    In our time, science knows about 800 different types of acacia, which differ from each other. Few people will specially plant an acacia in the garden, but if the tree has been growing on the site for a long time, then it can give young shoots. And if you are not in a hurry to part with an adult acacia, then there are probably doubts about the young growth: leave it in the garden or clean it up. The fact is that the plant actively propagates by self-sowing, therefore, in just a couple of years, if no action is taken, the site will be completely overgrown with young growth.

    Today we will talk not only about the benefits of acacia, but also about how to get rid of its young shoots.


    • Health benefits
    • Food use
    • How to get rid of acacia root shoots

    Health benefits

    Useful properties of acacia are used to treat many diseases in both folk and traditional medicine. Pharmacies offer a wide range of fees, which include various parts of the plant: bark, leaves, flowers. From raw materials produce infusions, compresses, decoctions. In alternative medicine, acacia-based products are used to treat colds, coughs, gastrointestinal diseases, and diseases of the genitourinary system. As for alcohol tinctures, they are successfully used to alleviate the condition with rheumatic pains, sciatica, and osteochondrosis. Suitable tinctures for external use.

    Food use

    It is worth noting the use of different parts of the acacia for food. For example, in Mexico, the seeds from the green pods of the tree are eaten raw, and sauces are prepared based on them. Acacia is included in the composition of many soft drinks, chewing gums, sweets and even beer. The seeds of this crop are eaten in Israel. And in countries such as Thailand, Laos, Burma, acacia shoots are added to first courses, omelettes, roasts, curries.

    We should also mention acacia honey. It is valued for its light taste with floral notes, attractive appearance and pleasant texture. This honey does not crystallize.

    We also advise you to read how to get rid of plum growth on the site forever.

    How to get rid of acacia root shoots

    We have already found out that young acacia can cause a lot of trouble. To control the growth of the plant, you should annually dig up the root shoots in the places where you prefer to get rid of them.

    Herbicides such as Glyphos, Tornado can also be applied. If you use the drugs, following the instructions, manufacturers guarantee the complete destruction of unnecessary woody vegetation. Processing is done in the spring, after the leaves have fully blossomed. Choose clear, calm weather for the procedure. Please note that you should not expect an instant result, the death of young animals will occur gradually, over a couple of months.

    Another way to get rid of root growth is to water it with gasoline or diesel fuel.

    Learn more