How to get rid of trees
How to Get Rid of Cut-Down Trees: Tree Stump Removal IdeasHow to Get Rid of Cut-Down Trees: Tree Stump Removal Ideas
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Dispose of unwanted cut-down trees with these eight tips
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When it comes to cutting down trees in your yard, the most obvious part about planning for the removal as a property owner is preparing to have them removed. One final step that might not be so obvious, however, is how to dispose of the branches, roots, stump, and trunk once they’ve been cut down. Here are eight tips on how you can get rid of the pieces from cut-down trees.
1. Store for Firewood
Storing chopped-down trees as firewood is a fairly simple way to get rid of the branches of your former trees. Not all trees can be used for firewood, however. Poplar, for example, is hard to split and is very smoky if you burn it when it’s not completely dry.
Even splitting low-quality wood with a power splitter can take a lot of work. If the wood is soft and wet from being freshly cut, you will also have a harder time splitting the wood. On top of that, you’ll need to cut the pieces to fireplace length, which may be a challenge depending on the species of trees.
2. Use as Furniture
Depending on the species and quality of wood, you might be able to use stumps and straight branches as legs to chairs, tables, and even stair railings. This is a great way to add some custom furniture to your home while also preserving the memories of the trees that used to be on your property, making it a win-win.
3. Turn Into Mulch/Wood Chips
For the same reason that you can’t use all wood from chopped trees as firewood, you also can’t just turn any old branch or stump into mulch or wood chips. If the wood in question is larger than 24 to 27 inches in diameter, you’re going to have to invest in more to chip the wood.
Towable chippers that are capable of chipping entire four-foot trees are mainly used for major land-clearing jobs and run at about $500 per hour or more.
With that in mind, if your trees are smaller, or you’ve already hired a tree service company to come on-site, turning your chopped trees into wood chips may very well be the right option for you. You can also take the brush to a brush chipping company in your area if you’ve already had the trees cut down.
4. Create a Property Line
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Another idea on how to get rid of cut-down trees is to get your DIY on. Create a charming rustic fence or go for the eco-friendly, low-maintenance route by simply rolling the logs in a single-file line to the edges of your property as a property line barrier. Bear in mind that any untreated wood will become insect, mushroom, toadstool, and fungus havens as they decompose.
5: Burn Brush on Site
Another option for getting rid of cut-down trees is to burn the wood in place. This option may be more time-consuming, as you’ll need to dry the wood somewhat. However, for leafy branches, this may be more time-efficient than sawing off individual branches and figuring out what to do with them.
Keep in mind that some species of open-pore “cottonwood” or “alamo” varieties soak up water very easily from rain if left out too long, so you might have to place a tarp over these species to let them air out. Leave airflow space underneath for airflow and let dry for 6-12 months or use fuel to help the wood burn more effectively.
Note: using fuel to burn wood is not legal in all areas, so always check with your local area first, and practice safety measures to ensure that the ground does not become contaminated by fuel if used.
6. Use as Compost
If you don’t mind adding a bit of wood to the natural scenery on your property, one way you can dispose of tree cuts is by simply stacking them and letting them rot away. Better yet, you can create compost sites from the stacked wood and pile up unsightly branches on the inside.
Or, if you want to conceal the stack, consider planting some shrubs around them. Just be sure not to place the wood too close to any property that has ants, termites, or venomous snakes, as this might encourage these unwelcome critters.
7. Give It Away
This might sound straightforward, but if you know neighbors, lumber mills, woodworkers, or others who could use free wood, why not just give it away? You might have to encourage a company or a few friends with trucks to come out and do some heavy-duty lifting, but you can rest at the end of the day knowing the wood is no longer in your hands.
8. Have a Professional Do the Job
Last but not least, if you want your tree demolition to be out of sight and out of mind quickly, then the easiest way to do it is to hire a tree service company to do the job. This option might cost more in the long run, but it will almost certainly save you time—especially if you are removing many trees and will have a lot of cut-down pieces remaining afterward.
A pro knows how to get rid of cut-down trees efficiently and can also use a stump grinder to remove stumps, remove roots, and ensure that power lines are clear of large trees.
Not to mention, a professional can inspect all trees on your property to help identify any sickly or unhealthy trees and remove them at the same time, saving you the trouble of having to repeat this process if another tree were to fall or become a hazard.
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Some of the most serious biologists agree that if they had to choose a single tool for managing and manipulating habitat, it would be a chainsaw. Thankfully we live in a world with more options. The possibilities are virtually endless when you arm a habitat manager with a chainsaw, the right herbicides, and a well-laid plan. This work can make existing trees and foliage healthier, promote the growth of more nutritional and desirable plants, and ultimately make the land more attractive to wildlife.
One critical note, safety is paramount when cutting trees. It can become a matter of life and death in the blink of an eye. You never know precisely where that tree will fall. The proper safety gear is a must to execute these practices effectively. This means wearing chaps, a helmet, hearing protection, and a face shield–not just safety glasses.
The Girdle Cut Girdling a tree can be a great solution when you want to thin an area but don't want immediate ground litter from cutting down a tree completely. A girdle cut is a very shallow slice around the tree's circumference. The key is to saw into the tree's cambium layer, just slightly deeper than the bark. The cambium layer of a tree is where all the nutrients flow, feeding the tree and keeping it alive. Upon cutting, spray the circumference of the cut with a herbicide solution of glyphosate and water. It's essential to spray the cut within a couple of hours of making it. Otherwise, the tree will start to heal, making the herbicide ineffective in killing the tree.
I recommend carrying a spray bottle with you and spraying as you go. If you're treating a large area or more than a few trees, it's helpful to use some bright colored dye or food coloring in the bottle to quickly and easily identify the trees you've treated. The tree starts to die as soon as you spray the herbicide into the cut. Once the tree dies, the dead stem will usually stand for a couple of years but will not grow foliage. More sunlight reaches the floor, encouraging early successional growth for food and better cover for wildlife.
The Hinge Cut The advantages of hinge-cutting trees are plentiful. It provides eye- to ground-level food and habitat where wildlife live. They need head-high cover for bedding and security as well as food. It also lets more sunlight through a more open canopy for early successional growth, more forbs, and nutrient-rich plants deer and other wildlife will eat. It can make bedding areas more attractive and useful. Like any management practice, there's a time and place for hinge cutting. Proper technique and execution are essential.
Not all trees are appropriate or safe to hinge cut. Consider alternate management techniques like felling or girdling if the wood is too brittle and prone to cracking, splitting, or breaking. No tree or management is worth risking your or anyone else's safety. Do your research through professional wildlife biologist resources, such as the National Deer Association, for tips on the best trees to hinge cut. When selecting trees, it's best to only cut ones of a size you can confidently control the landing. The goal is to cut the tree such that it falls over while still leaving enough of the cambium layer attached or hooked to the main stem, keeping the tree alive and producing foliage for seasons to come.
I prefer to cut waist- to chest-high on the tree when hinge-cutting. Cut straight in about 75% through, leaving enough fiber and sapwood to keep the tree alive for multiple seasons. Angled or 45-degree cuts are not favorable for hinge cuts. These cuts promote dangerous kickbacks, and it's easier to go too deep into the tree and damage the cambium layer.
Felling “Felling a tree” is a fancy way to say cutting a tree down. Carefully assess where you want the tree to fall and ensure the surroundings will allow it to fall there. Let gravity help you out and cut the tree with the way it naturally leans if possible.
Once you've determined the direction the tree will likely drop, cut a horizontal notch about a quarter of the way into the tree on the side of the fall direction. For larger diameter trees (15 inches or more) it's wise to cut out a wedge by placing a diagonal plunge cut a couple of inches below the notch. Then cut through to the wedge through the other side of the tree. Once the tree starts to fall slowly, step away and let gravity take it down.
Big or small, once the tree is down, you have options. You can leave the stump untreated, allowing new stems to sprout that can be attractive and nutrient-rich food for wildlife, depending on the tree species. Otherwise, use the glyphosate and water mixture to spray around the cambium layer of the stump, ultimately killing the tree and root system.
Freature image via Captured Creative.
all possible ways to get rid of tree plantations, as well as remove their growth, without resorting to felling
There are situations in which it is necessary to stop the growth of a tree or completely remove it, but sawing and felling are not applicable.
If you decide to destroy a tree, you must understand the possible consequences, including a high likelihood of a fine or even criminal prosecution .
However, these methods can be used legally, for example, to control the growth of a felled or uprooted tree that has been removed with permission.
In addition, cessation of growth or removal may be required when:
- a young shoot from a wild root is growing near the foundation;
- among trees of one species, a wild plant of another species appears and suppresses other plants;
- after clearing the field and uprooting the stumps, wild growth appears.
Let's figure out how to destroy a tree without cutting it down.
- What is the difference between cessation of growth and removal?
- How to stop growth?
- Treatment of leaves
- Treatment of trunk
- Treatment of roots
- How to get rid of a tree?
What is the difference between cessation of growth and removal?
The cessation of growth leads to the death of the plant, but the trunk and branches can retain their shape for decades. Such a plant turns into deadwood and dries quickly , because the sap flow in it completely stops.
Removal means the destruction of the trunk or roots in any way, after which the restoration of the tree is no longer possible.
However, after removal of the trunk, it is possible that roots remain active and new shoots appear. It is also possible to simultaneously remove the trunk and roots, but it is impossible to remove or destroy the roots before removing the trunk.
How to stop growth?
All methods of stopping growth can be divided according to their effect into:
- soil and roots.
Foliage is treated with various herbicides, the most popular of which is Roundup .
Although marketed as a weed killer, this product is well suited for killing most deciduous trees.
The main component is glyphosate, which blocks the synthesis of certain critical substances, which leads to the death of all parts of the plant.
Roundup is applied to the leaves with the Sprayer using protective clothing, respirator and goggles, as glyphosate is highly toxic. In addition, any glyphosate-based preparations should not be used where animals of any kind frequently appear.
Foliar spraying with Roundup or other herbicides can be done at any time, but will be most effective when spraying early foliage.
When applying the preparation to the plant, it is necessary to proceed very carefully, if possible avoiding material falling on the ground . Once in the soil, glyphosate will poison it and groundwater passing through it, then with them it will get to other plants, as well as into a well or well. Due to the high toxicity of the drug, it should be used only in exceptional cases, when no other methods of dealing with the young growth of the tree give a result.
Impact on the trunk
To stop the growth of the plant through the trunk, use the same methods that we talked about in the article about removing stumps without uprooting.
Due to the fact that the wood of the trunk is almost indistinguishable from the wood of the roots, these reagents act on the trunk in exactly the same way.
It is most convenient to drill holes for laying reagents at a height of 1.5 m from the ground, this will allow you to perform all work with a minimum level of discomfort. If necessary, the height can be changed in any direction, because reagents spread along the tree along with the movement of juices .
When choosing a reagent, it must be taken into account that urea and saltpeter loosen the wood and deprive it of strength, due to which the tree may fall under the influence of wind.
Treatment of roots
The effect on the roots differs from the effect on the trunk only in that the preparations are not injected into the wood, but poured around .
This method is only applicable where no other plants are planned to be planted after the removal of the tree.
Therefore, you do not have to worry about the negative effects of reagents.
This method has several significant disadvantages :
- increased consumption of reagents, because it is necessary to create a high concentration in the area of the root system;
- total barrenness of the soil;
- pollution of high-lying groundwater.
How to get rid of a tree?
In cases where you need to destroy a tree without cutting it down, you can:
- Knock it down in various ways.
- Remove the root from the ground (if required).
- Dispose of leftovers.
Only young trees of small height and diameter can be felled. If the height exceeds 4–5 m, and the diameter of the trunk exceeds 10 cm, it is better to cut it down, because larger plants can only be dumped using heavy equipment , i.e. an excavator or a bulldozer.
At home, you can knock down the trunk using a car or truck. The heavier the machine, the easier it will be to break the trunk or twist the roots out of the ground.
Felling requires rope or cable twice the height of the tree. A cable or rope is tied to the trunk at a height of 2/3 of the trunk length, then tied to a towbar or transport hook.
It is desirable to load the trunk as much as possible in order to increase the weight of the car and the grip of its wheels with the ground. Then they start the car and, turning on the first gear, slowly pull the cable or rope and continue moving forward.
This job should not be done without many years of driving experience, as pressing the accelerator pedal too hard will result in wheel slip and reduced traction .
In addition, it is undesirable to use machines with an automatic transmission (automatic transmission) or a variator for this operation.
It is also very important to use the clutch pedal correctly, because mistakes will lead to rapid wear of the clutch disc or engine stalling.
If the trunk has broken off from the root, the root must be removed from the ground. If you leave it in the ground, then there is a high probability of both the appearance of a new shoot and the development of pests and pathogens of various diseases in it.
We have already talked about the different uprooting methods here. After that, it is necessary to dispose of all the wood in any acceptable way, which can help you with the article on the removal of trees and branches.
It is possible to get rid of a tree without cutting it down only if it is small, using both herbicides and other methods for this. However, most of the methods pose a threat to the soil, as well as animals and people.
Therefore, resorting to such extreme measures is necessary only if it is not possible to remove the tree or its growth in any other way.
How to get rid of trees and stumps in the area
How to get rid of trees and stumps in the area.
Removal of trees and stumps from the site. In this article, you will learn how to get rid of trees in your yard and how to get rid of stumps in your yard. How to get rid of trees and stumps on the site.
How to get rid of trees in the area.
When developing forest plots, trees are not cut by the usual method, but thick rhizomes are cut from one side of great length, hooking the rope to 1 of the upper branches, and the tree is felled in the direction opposite to that from which the rhizomes were cut. It is necessary to strive to throw the rope as high as possible, and in this case 2-3 people very easily twist a huge tree. It is necessary to cut the rhizomes with a similar calculation: suppose that the tree has a slight slope to the north, in this case the rhizomes are cut from the south side and the tree is felled to the north side, this is facilitated by the own weight of the tree, of course, leaning in the direction where you will begin to fell it .
With this method of work, you immediately clear the land from both trees and stumps, thicker rhizomes are dug up and cut down, and medium-sized roots can be easily handled by an excellent double plow with a sharp knife, and small roots are destroyed by decay much faster. Thickets need to be dug up a little and cut down at a depth of at least 12-20 centimeters from the surface layer of soil. In particular, it is necessary to carefully cut down the rhizomes of various species of willow and elm, which are extremely difficult to rot and drive out multiple young shoots even from the smallest roots remaining in the ground.
Initially, on trees designated for felling with roots, it is necessary to cut off the main roots extending to the sides, for which the turf and stones are cleaned 45-60 centimeters around the tree in advance, and then the rhizomes are cut off right next to the trunk. Accurate execution greatly facilitates the success of felling. If the roots are cut off not close to the trunk, but retreating, then the rhizomes remaining near the trunk itself will make it difficult to fell the tree, as well as the subsequent extraction of the rhizomes themselves.
Rhizomes of deciduous trees are cut in a circle, and conifers - 1/2 - 1/3 of the circumference near the trunk, other rhizomes - 10-15 centimeters from the trunk.
How to get rid of stumps on the site.
Stumps can be destroyed in the following way: in the stump, a borehole is drilled two centimeters across and 45 centimeters deep and filled with water with 50 grams of saltpeter; the slot is plugged with a cork or smeared with clay with a missed wick. Under the influence of water pressure, which is distributed during freezing, the stump is crushed into pieces, and subsequently in the spring it is doused with kerosene and scorched.
Usually, in order to uproot the forest on the site at a lower cost and more successfully, one must have the skill to use leverage, horse power, partly and wedge, as well as manual labor. If the forest has not yet been brought down, then the tree itself is a powerful lever. It is allowed to act like this: from the edge of the forest area, from the windward side, the most important tree roots are cut through again from the windward side, 30-35 centimeters from the stump. The first powerful wind will knock down the forest and turn all the stumps out. Pine and black alder, which have the strongest tap root, are not suitable for this procedure.
Very thick stumps of already felled trees are split in advance with iron and wooden wedges into two equal parts. Subsequently, each half, without exception, is split exactly into two by a similar custom. These quarters of a split stump still sit quite firmly in the ground, held back by lateral roots. It is enough to tie a short chain with a roll to each quarter in turn, harness the horse and pull it out with all the roots. The uprooting made in this way simplifies by more than half the subsequent sawing of the stump for firewood.
Other stumps, of medium size, are uprooted with the help of long levers and horses or working oxen harnessed to them. In addition, the most important rhizomes are initially cut off 40 centimeters around and hooked onto the roots of each side of the stump, one large hook attached to a strong ring, in the opposite direction. The ends of the levers are threaded through the rings, which rest against the stump on both sides of it. Horses are harnessed to the outer ends of the levers, which twist the stump.
The cheapest and most elementary method of transforming a felled forest into income is to turn it into a garden by planting fruit trees, while keeping the stumps uprooted, which do not interfere with planting in the least. Forest bedding, which gives a layer of fertile humus, ashes from burnt scrap are valuable, free fertilizer for the garden.
Subsequently, the disc harrow is launched into several tracks along the length and transversely, while the roots that remain in the ground do not interfere with it at all - and the soil is ready for planting.
If the work is completed before the beginning of June, barley may be sown; if later, winter rye or wheat. In any case, it is necessary not to allow re-sowing, but to take two pounds less than usual.
When choosing places from under the forest, practical for clearing, for transformation into a field or mowing, observe the precious indications of plants, pay attention to natural vegetation.