How to graft a maple tree branch

How to Graft Red Maples | Home Guides

By Teo Spengler

North American native red maple (Acer rubrum) is an easy-growing tree that thrives in virtually any soil in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9. The "red" in its name is easy to understand since the tree produces red flower clusters in springtime, followed by red-toned new growth, red buds and red samara fruit. Perhaps most attractive is the red-orange hue of the leaves in autumn, although the quality of the fall foliage color varies between individual specimens. Since many cultivars offer more brilliant and reliable autumn colors than the native tree, both growers and gardeners are tempted to graft the cultivars on hardier red maple rootstock.

  1. Prepare a red maple rootstock. Select a young red maple whip with a trunk diameter of about 1/2-inch. If recently purchased, plant in a container or in the garden where you want the tree to grow.

  2. Clean and disinfect a sharp knife or pruning shears with denatured alcohol. Clip off a 6-inch shoot from the maple to use for the scion, the part of the tree that produces the trunk and branches. Act while the tree is dormant and select healthy new growth about 1/2-inch in diameter.

  3. Clip off the top half of the rootstock whip with the pruning shears. Using a sharp knife, slice the top of the rootstock in a deep diagonal about 2 1/2 inches long. Make a second short cut near the top end of the diagonal parallel to the first cut to serve as the "tongue" in a "tongue-and-groove" connection between the two maple stems.

  4. Slice the bottom of the cultivar scion in a similar diagonal. Make a shorter cut on the low end of the scion's diagonal. This will serve as the groove in the "tongue-and-groove" connection.

  5. Join the two pieces of maple so that that the taller end of the scion's diagonal is in contact with the lower end of the rootstock's diagonal cut. The "tongue" on the rootstock fits into the "groove" cut on the scion. This locks the pieces together.

  6. Cut a piece of grafting tape or twine several feet long. Wrap this around the entire graft area repeatedly as if you were bandaging a wound. Apply grafting paint over the twine or tape to seal the area.


  • Missouri Botanical Garden: Acer Rubrum
  • California Polytechnic State University: Urban Forest Ecosystems Institute: SelecTree: Red Maple
  • Fine Gardening: Acer Rubrum (Red Maple, Scarlet Maple, Swamp Maple)
  • North Carolina Extension: Genetic Potential of Red Maple for Urban Use
  • University of California: Propagation -- The California Backyard Orchard
  • North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service: Grafting and Budding Nursery Crop Plants


  • Fine Gardening: Around the Base of a Large Red Maple
  • U.S. National Arboretum: Fall Foliage 'Autumn Colors' Photo Gallery
  • Napa Valley Register: Tips on How to Share Your Favorite Plants


  • Be sure the cambium layers of the trees touch one another. The cambium layer is the green layer of wood just below the bark. The "marriage" of the cambium layers permits the scion to grow into the rootstock.


  • Wear tough gloves to protect your hands when you make the grafting cuts. It is all too easy to slice a finger when you are slicing the maple.
  • Red maples can be difficult to graft. The industry is turning away from red maple grafting because of frequent graft failure attributed to graft incompatibility.

Writer Bio

From Alaska to California, from France's Basque Country to Mexico's Pacific Coast, Teo Spengler has dug the soil, planted seeds and helped trees, flowers and veggies thrive. World traveler, professional writer and consummate gardener, Spengler earned a BA from U.C. Santa Cruz, a law degree from Berkeley's Boalt Hall, and an MA and MFA from San Francisco State. She currently divides her life between San Francisco and southwestern France.

How to Graft Japanese Maple Trees

You are here: Home / Growing Japanese Maples / How to Graft Japanese Maple Trees


Japanese Maple Waterfall (fall color)

Lots of how to photos on this page.

Grafting is done during the winter months when the scion wood is completely dormant.  In order to graft your own Japanese maple tree you’ll need a few supplies as well as a Japanese maple seedling that you can use as a root stock.

Growing Japanese maple from seed is actually quite easy to do.  The ideal size seedling for grafting is usually a seedling that is 3/16″ in diameter.  But a little smaller or bigger will also work.  In the fall, after your seedlings have gone into dormancy, pot them up and store them outside in a protected area until you are ready to prep them for grafting.

Prepping your Japanese maple seedlings for grafting is easy.  Just bring the potted seedlings inside where it’s nice and warm and keep them watered as needed until they start to break dormancy.   Watch the buds on the seedlings.  When you first bring them in they’ll be really small and tight.  After being inside at about 70 degrees F. for 10 to 14 days the seedlings will start coming out of dormancy.  The buds will start to swell, then open, and soon you’ll see signs of little tiny leaves.

The ideal time to graft them is right before they start to produce new leaves.  That’s the only preparation that your seedlings need.  Don’t fertilize them or anything like that, just bring them inside and let them warm up for 10 to 14 days.

The other supplies that you’ll need are a really sharp knife, some grafting wax and some rubber bands that are made for grafting.  Grafting rubber bands are pretty much degradable so after being in the sun for several months they start to break down and fall of the plant.  That’s important.  You should remove the rubber bands manually about four months after you make the graft, but in case you forget it’s better to have grafting bands that are likely to fall off on their own.

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If you do Google search for “grafting kit” you should be able to find a kit that comes with a grafting knife, a bar of grafting wax and a nice supply of grafting rubber bands.

The knife that you use for grafting needs to be really sharp because a dull knife will make cuts with ragged edges and those ragged edges will cause your graft to fail.

Scion.  What’s a scion?  Scion is the term used to describe the cutting that you remove from the parent plant.  A scion should only be taken from the end or tip of the branch because the scion you use should be from the current seasons growth.  You don’t want to use any wood that is older than one season when you are grafting.

Let’s get started!

Making a Grafting Cut

The goal when making a graft is to match up cambium layer to cambium layer.  The cambium layer is the light green colored tissue right below the bark.  The cambium layer is the life support system of the plant.   It would do no good to make a graft into the wood of a plant.  Your graft must be made in such a way that you are putting cambium tissue against cambium tissue.  In the above photo you can see that I am exposing the cambium tissue.

You can also see that I have wrapped my thumb with several layers of heavy duty tape.  Make sure you wrap your thumb and or any finger that could be in the way as you make your grafting cuts.  Remember, the knife that you use is really, really sharp.  Protect your thumb and or fingers by wrapping them with tape.

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Trimming the Scion for grafting.

To prepare the scion for the graft you have to cut the end of the scion to a taper so it fits snugly into or against the rootstock.

Scion Wood Prepared for Grafting.

In this photo you can see how I have made the cut on the scion wood to prepare if for grafting.  The very center is wood inside the center of the plant.   If you look closely you can see the cambium tissue between the bark and the wood of the tree.

A scion ready to be inserted into the graft union.Making a veneer graft.

This is called a Veneer Graft because you are actually grafting the scion to the side of the plant and not inserting it into the center of the plant like you would with a saddle graft or a reverse saddle graft.  I like doing veneer grafts because this process allows you to match up a lot more cambium tissue than you do with other types of grafts.

Notice how snug the scion fits into the graft union.  Air space is your enemy when grafting.  You want tissue against tissue with no air space.

Wrapping the Graft Union.

Once the scion is inserted into the graft union you have to hold it firmly in place, then start wrapping the graft with grafting rubber band.  This wrap must be tight because you are trying to apply enough pressure to firmly press the two cambium layers together.  Just wrap the band around and around, then terminate the wrap by making a little slip knot with the end of the rubber band.

A completed Japanese Maple Graft.

Almost done!  The only thing left to do is apply the grafting wax.  See my little slip knot?  Isn’t that cute?

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Applying grafting wax to a Japanese maple graft.

The finishing touch is to coat the entire graft union with melted grafting wax.  When melting the wax you have to be careful to not get it too hot.  You want it just hot enough so it melts so as you apply it, it sets up quickly and doesn’t run down the stem.  If the wax is too hot it can do harm to the plant tissue.  Be sure to cover the graft union completely so no air can get into the graft union.  Air causes the tissue to get hard and brittle and the two pieces of tissue will not bond.

The little brush that I am using to apply the wax is called a flux brush.  You can pick one up that the hardware store.  A flux brush is normally used for apply flux to copper pipes before you solder them.   I think I paid 29 cents for the one that I bought.

Melting grafting wax.

I found this little candle warmer and glass dish at Walmart.  I think I paid about $8.00 for both of them.  This set up worked great.  I just cut off a chunk of the grafting wax, stood it up in the little dish, and turned on the heat.  It probably took about two hours for the wax to melt all the way down so I could work with it, so make sure you get the wax melted before you start grafting.

Questions or comments?  Post them below.  -Mike McGroarty


✅ What can be grafted onto maple


  • 1 What can be grafted onto maple
    • 1.1 With your own hands - How to do it yourself
    • 1.2 How to do something yourself, with your own hands - home master site
    • 1.3 How to choose the right one rootstock and when is the best time to graft trees
    • 1.4 Grafting trees on time and choosing the right rootstock
    • 1. 5 Rootstock and scion - possible combinations
    • 1.6 About rootstocks
    • 1.7 On Trucks
    • 1.8 On vaccination periods
    • 1.9 Apple vaccination
    • 1.10 Group vaccination
    • 1.11 Slum vaccination
    • 1.12 Cherry and Cherry Vaccination
    • 1.1 Vaccination of maple
    • 9000 1.1 Karagana 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000. 1.16 On what rootstocks can an apple tree be grafted?
    • 1.17 What can be grafted onto a maple tree
    • 1.18 Unusual grafting, or What can be grafted onto in the garden
      • 1.18.1 Adding an article to a new collection
    • 1.19 A tree with different varieties
    • 1.20 Berry bushes on a bole
    • 1.21 Why do unusual grafting of garden plants?
    • 1.22 Fruit tree grafting secrets you didn't know about
    • 1.23 Fruit tree grafting: what is it and what is its purpose
    • 1. 24 General rules and concepts of tree crossing
    • 1.25 Which fruit trees can be crossed with each other
      • 1.25.1 Brighting of apple trees
      • 1.25.2 Crossing pears
      • 1.25.3 Crossing of the plum
      • 1.25.4 Crossing of cherries
      • 1.25.5 Currants of currants
    • 9000 1.26 How to choose a pallet and half
    • 1.27 tools, used for grafting
    • 1.28 When can fruit trees be grafted
    • 1.29 Harvesting and storing cuttings for grafting
    • 1.30 Grafting methods
      • 1.30.1 Per bark
      • 1.30.2 In the upset
      • 1.30.3 in the split
      • 1.30.4 Copulation
      • 1.30.5 OPARTION
      • 1.30.6 Ablaking 9000.7 CHICES
    • 1.31 How long is the vaccination
    • 1.32 Care for care behind fruit trees after grafting
    • 1.33 Tips for the grafting to take root perfectly

Do it yourself - How to do it yourself

How to do something yourself, with your own hands - the site of a home master

How to choose the right stock and when is the best time to graft trees


Grafting trees on time and choosing the right rootstock



Rootstock and graft - possible combinations

About rootstocks

Rootstock is the root, and sometimes the stem of the grafted plant. Properly selected stock increases the winter hardiness of the variety, adapts it to various soils, and increases resistance to diseases and pests. The strength of growth, the beginning of fruiting and the appearance of the tree often depend on the stock. The same variety on different rootstocks can have different characteristics.


Incorrect selection of rootstock is fraught with incompatibility - the graft does not grow together or in the future leads to weak growth or to the breaking of the tree. So that the work is not in vain, you need to use well-tested combinations or select closely related plants. The most reliable option is to graft cuttings onto seedlings grown from seeds of the same tree. Although in practice this does not always work out: the desired tree may not produce seeds or be insufficiently winter-hardy.

For ornamental species, the choice of rootstocks is small, but fruit trees can boast of a rich variety. The more significant the culture and the wider the geography of its distribution, the more rootstocks exist that can adapt it to various conditions.

About grafts

It is better to prepare cuttings of the desired variety in late November - December, before frost hits. Usually they take the growths of this summer, last year's at least, tie them in bunches, sign the variety, wrap it in foil and bury it in the snow in a place where it will not melt during thaws. Cuttings should lie in the cold until the vaccination. The cuttings that have started to dig take root very poorly.

About the timing of grafting

The graft grows well when the stock is in an active state - there is increased sap flow, leaves bloom, new shoots grow. Calendarly, this is April-May (grafting with a cutting) and July - the beginning of August (budding). In August, work is completed by the 10th-15th, so that the buds have time to grow together well before the onset of cold weather. Grafting dates for most plants are universal and only in some cases are slightly shifted or are more compressed.

Grafting of apple trees

Apple trees are grafted in order to propagate, to obtain multi-varietal trees or decorative forms, to replace an unfavorable variety with a new one, to increase the winter hardiness of heat-loving varieties. Various types of grafting are used: cutting (copulation) and bud (budding) . Vaccinated at the usual time. As a rootstock, seedlings of ‘Antonovka ordinary’, ‘Borovinka’, ‘Cinnamon striped’, other winter-hardy varieties or clone rootstocks, of which there are currently quite a lot, are often used. The height of the future tree and its frost resistance will depend on the stock.

In the middle lane, the dwarf clonal stock 62-396 and medium-sized 54-118 are most widely used. They have excellent winter hardiness, well compatible].! with most large-fruited varieties, have strong wood.

Apple trees on bedbug rootstocks grow no more than 3 m tall and begin to bear fruit abundantly already in the first years after planting. Apples on such trees are larger, and crops are more even over the years. In addition, caring for a small tree is not so DIFFICULT. However, such apple trees need more attention: a shallow root system requires watering in the dry season and mulching for the winter, the crown often thickens. These trees live 20 - 25 years. Apple trees on a dwarf rootstock can grow in areas with high standing groundwater.

On the seed rootstock, apple trees grow tall, begin to bear fruit in the 5-7th year and slowly increase the yield, more often they are prone to periodic fruiting. These are long-lived trees with a deep root system. But they do not tolerate damp areas.

In hobby gardens, more readily available rootstocks are usually used. They are obtained from the seeds of local resistant varieties. After 1-3 years, seedlings are grafted. Clonal (vegetatively propagated) rootstocks are used less often, since they can only be purchased in specialized nurseries.

Pear grafting

In the middle lane, pear is grafted only on seedlings of forest pear (Pyrus pyraster) or local resistant varieties (Tonkovetka, 'Bessemyanka' and others), obtaining tall, durable trees that begin to bear fruit on the 5th-8th year. In areas with a harsh climate, cuttings can be grafted onto the willow (P. salicifolia) or the loholist (P. elaeagrifolia) - they are very frost-resistant and drought-resistant, but they do not tolerate wet winters. Sometimes, to obtain undersized trees, a pear is grafted onto a hawthorn or mountain ash, but not all varieties are compatible with such rootstocks, and the trees are very short-lived.

Do not graft trees in early spring (in cool weather, growth is very slow), and also in the second half of May, when it gets too hot and the air humidity drops noticeably. To reduce evaporation, plastic bags are put on late vaccinations, but the risk of overheating is still very high.

Plum grafting

Plum grows well on seedlings of the domestic plum (Prunus domestical, blackthorn or P. spinosa), cherry plum or P. cerasifera. The main problem is the formation of unwanted growth. rootstocks do not have this problem, but their winter hardiness is lower.High frost resistance and short stature will be given by grafting on seedlings of felt cherry (P. tomentosa).It is suitable for most known varieties.

Cherry and sweet cherry grafting

Cherry and sweet cherry grow well on seedlings of winter-hardy varieties of common cherry (Prunus cerasus). The height of the resulting plants is often determined by the vigor of the varieties used. For example, on seedlings the trees of the ordinary variety ‘Rastunya’ will turn out to be large, the seedlings of ‘Vladimirskaya’ will provide medium height, and undersized varieties will convey their diminutiveness. However, it is better not to use the latter for sweet cherries, as well as seedlings of self-fertile varieties. Their main drawback is the formation of overgrowth. It is good to graft cherries on seedlings. antipki (P. mahaleb): trees are strong, durable, winter-hardy, although this stock is not SUITABLE for some varieties.

When harvesting cherry cuttings, keep in mind that lateral buds may be flowery, unable to form shoots. After fruiting, they will die off - this is a common property of varieties with drooping branches. Only tops or cuttings taken from young, vigorously growing trees are suitable for grafting.

Grafting maple

This is a difficult crop to graft: abundant sap makes it difficult for the components to grow together. Therefore, the work is carried out at a clearly defined time: in the summer, when the apical bud has formed on the rootstocks (late July - early August), and in the spring, when the leaves unfold on the rootstock; is grafted by budding into the butt or by cutting into the butt . When shortening the stem over the graft, leave one knot so that the leaves draw the juice towards them. If the cut is made just above the graft, it will dry out. Cut off the remaining part of the stem after a year, during which you need to make sure that strong shoots do not form from the upper buds.


Yellow locust, or Karagana, has a very beautiful variety with small leaves, as well as an exquisite weeping shape. It is grafted onto a trunk 1–2 m high. As a rootstock, two-three-year-old seedlings of the tree-like (Caragana arborescens) are used. It is better to graft in the spring with a cutting with 3-4 buds.

Rowan and chokeberry grafting

All variety of fruit and ornamental forms of mountain ash will grow well on rowan (Sorbus aucuparia) seedlings. It is grafted at the usual time with a cutting or budding. For a weeping form, seedlings with the required stem height are selected.

The black chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa) grafted onto the bole of the r. ordinary. Usually a stem 1-2 m high is left. The resulting tree not only attracts with its shape, but also brings rich harvests.

  1. Undersized rootstocks should not be grafted with naturally vigorous varieties.
  2. Semi-culturing seedlings are used for grafting ranetki.
  3. Ranetok seedlings are not suitable for grafting large-fruited varieties.
  4. The same rootstocks are suitable for ornamental apple trees as for fruit trees. Only varieties of apple trees are grafted onto seedlings of apple trees.
  5. For crown grafting, it is better to select trees with late fruit ripening.

On which rootstocks can an apple tree be grafted?

Grafting of fruit trees is one of the methods of their reproduction. By placing the shoot of one plant ( scion ) on another ( rootstock ), gardeners can create completely unusual crops that simultaneously have many varieties and different fruit ripening periods.

The main thing in this matter is how to master the simple technique of grafting, not to be afraid to experiment and remember that this procedure is usually carried out before the flowering phase of the trees.

Even the great breeder Ivan Michurin said: " You can graft everything on everything, the main thing is to do it right ".

Usually, gardeners use wild apple or its root stock as a root stock, which shows good resistance to adverse weather conditions and resists various diseases and pests well.

Sometimes specialists purposefully breed apple tree seedlings from "wild" seeds in order to subsequently graft cultivars onto them. Plants grown from seeds reach the required age in a year and allow them to be grafted.

The technique in this case is not so important and any of the existing methods of grafting will do. Usually, for this purpose, such types are used as budding , copulation , grafting in a lateral incision or in a split.

As a rule, apple trees are grafted onto the entire group of pome fruit trees, since these crops have a genetic similarity, which leads to good compatibility and quick survival of plants.

Cases of incompatibility include both the absolute impossibility of growing together, and the short-term connection of the rootstock with the scion, in which a small number of internal conductive vessels are created, which as a result leads to a lack of nutrients, drying out of the scion, or its breakage.

Of course, the chance that an apple tree will take root well on an apple tree is very high, but it does not mean at all that other types of rootstocks are not suitable.

Interesting experiments of breeders and biological paradoxes

Even in the annals of the ancient Romans and Greeks there is information about successful experiments in grafting pear on ash, rose on oak, grape on walnut and orange on pomegranate.

For a long time, these facts were questioned by botanists and considered fiction. But at the beginning of the 20th century, some scientists confirmed the possibility of the existence of such vaccinations.

For example, it took Michurin about five years to graft a pear onto a lemon.

Not so long ago, Japanese biologists managed to graft a mulberry onto an acacia.

There are known attempts to graft apple shoots onto poplar, maple and aspen. In practice, such multi-species vaccinations usually do not take root. Each culture has its own rootstocks, on which they take root better and bear fruit abundantly.

On the one hand, we can assume that this activity is absolutely meaningless, but on the other hand, it is thanks to the efforts of enthusiastic gardeners that new varieties of fruit crops appear. Therefore, at present, scientists' experiments on grafting distant and very different plants are continuing, and we are looking forward to new interesting results of their work.

Apple-to-apple grafting

Successful grafting results, even for closely related plants, are primarily affected by the quality of the rootstock. It is he who feeds the plant with useful elements and water.

At the same time, the varietal conformity of fruit trees is a very important factor. Even the grafting of an apple tree to an apple tree is not always successful, and the best result is recorded when using scion and rootstock of the same varieties.

Usually grafting an apple tree on an apple tree is used in two cases:

To renew old trees that have ceased to bear fruit

To propagate released varieties

growth of fruit trees

Plants with different growth rates usually give a short-lived graft, which can dry out or break off as a result of an advance in the development of the rootstock or scion.

· Fruit size

Among the small-fruited varieties of apple, there is a huge variety of varieties that are resistant to adverse conditions. As a rule, they are short and form a very compact crown, which simplifies the care of the tree and facilitates the harvesting process.

In any case, the gardener has to choose plant varieties for grafting based on various indicators (frost resistance of the tree, size of fruits and their degree of keeping quality, fruiting time, taste of apples, and so on).

· Terms of ripening and fruiting of apple trees

This is perhaps the most important factor to consider when choosing a rootstock and a scion, since only varieties of apple trees that are close to each other in terms of fruit ripening are well combined.

The fact is that the synchronous beginning of the vegetation phases and the same growth rates give more chances for the normal development of plants. For example, a winter variety of an apple tree grafted onto a summer variety may experience a clear lack of nutrition at the time of fruit ripening, as a result of which apples may not fully ripen and fall prematurely.

As for the number of inoculations on one plant, here, as they say, the master is the master. Graft at least 250 varieties per tree!

However, it should be remembered that the more varieties there are on one plant, the more difficult it is to care for it, since varietal shoots compete with each other for nutrients and light, which inevitably leads to the oppression of some and the overdevelopment of others.

Usually, to avoid this negative phenomenon, gardeners form the crown of the tree in the form of a bowl, thus providing the entire plant with equal access to sunlight and an even distribution of nutrients.

In any case, it is preferable to plant several trees and graft them with a couple of varieties of similar maturity than to plant one tree and then graft about ten different grafts on it.

Gardeners rightfully consider seedlings of the Antonovka variety to be the best stock for cultivated varieties of apple trees.

When is it best to graft apple trees?

Fruit trees are grafted most often in spring, sometimes in summer.

In the first case, the grafting material is prepared in advance and then stored in a cool room or refrigerator. The cuttings are in the dormant phase at this time, so it is advisable to wrap them in a slightly damp cloth or polyethylene to reduce the process of moisture evaporation. As soon as the buds come to life on the rootstock and the first leaves begin to bloom, you can start grafting.

If grafting is carried out during the summer period, then the stalk should be harvested on the same day, before direct work.

It is best to work in the morning or in the evening, after sunset.

Grafting Apple to Pear

Although apple and pear belong to the same Rosaceae family, pear cultivar cuttings do not take root very well on apple, and grafting apple to pear is even more difficult. The same applies to cherries and cherries. Most cherry varieties can be easily grafted onto cherries, but backgrafting is much more difficult. Alas, science still cannot explain this fact.

However, most often gardeners try to graft an apple tree to a pear tree, since both of these plants are genetically quite compatible with each other.

Usually, apple trees are grafted onto pear trees in order to obtain a tree that would eventually bear two types of fruit at once. But gardeners should remember that apple grafts on a pear most often do not live up to seven years, and they do not give a very high yield. This is primarily due to the difference in the growth and development of plants, since the pear grows much faster than the apple tree, which does not allow the scion to receive the required amount of nutrients normally. As a result, ugly and vulnerable growths often form at the site of the inoculation.

However, today there are already examples of how an apple tree grafted on a pear gives a quite stable crop and normally bears fruit for several decades. But a large role in this case is played by the genetic degree of compatibility of different varieties.

Grafting pear cuttings on an apple tree can also show good results and quite acceptable longevity. The only condition is the timely pruning of trees, the purpose of which is to curb the growth of pear shoots.

Grafting apple trees on other crops

As a rule, interspecific grafting is rarely successful, and even if the plants eventually take root with each other, they rarely bear fruit.

Grafting apple cuttings to quince often shows good results, especially if seedlings are used as rootstock. Apple fruits grown on quince have a pleasant note of astringency.

An apple tree is well grafted to a plum tree, since it also belongs to the Rosaceae family, but, alas, it does not form fruits, so the expediency of such a grafting is a big question. In addition, the life cycle of a grafted plum is very short-lived, and an ugly outgrowth often forms at the junction of the rootstock and scion, provoking the breakage of the shoot.

Cherry also belongs to the Rosaceae family, so grafting an apple tree on this plant is also quite feasible, but further development of the shoots is fraught with rejection, since the fragile branches of the cherry are often unable to withstand the weight of the apple trees.

Sweet cherry is even more whimsical than cherry, so the survival rate of apple scion on this crop is very low.

The apple tree also does not take root well on cherry plum and apricot, although many enthusiasts use the splicing of these two crops in warm climates.

Many gardeners experiment with grafting an apple tree on a turn, although this combination of plants does not bring much success. Therefore, grafting an apple tree on the above crops is rather an exception to the rule and is carried out by gardeners exclusively as part of an experiment.

Gardeners often use seedlings of chokeberry and red mountain ash as rootstock. At the same time, the survival rate of apple tree shoots is quite high and the tree can stably bear fruit. Unfortunately, such a stock is not very durable (about 10 years on mountain ash and about 7 years on chokeberry), but the plant has a low crown and has good frost resistance.

There are known cases of grafting apple trees on bird cherry, birch, sea buckthorn, hawthorn, mulberry, aspen, viburnum and even grapes, but the varietal affiliation of the apple cutting plays a big role in this case. In addition, grafted plants require careful care, since apple tree shoots grow quickly enough and can break off fragile rootstock branches.

Grafting an apple tree on mulberry crops has a positive effect on the taste of the fruit, but such a plant does not live long.

Nevertheless, these experiments of gardeners have a solid foundation, because they are, firstly, quite an exciting activity, and secondly, they provide an opportunity to develop crop production, so this game is worth the candle.

What can be pressed on maple


Registration: 9.7.2004
Posts: 2246
from: Protvino, Mosk.obl

The desirable combinations of experiments
for distant vaccinations of fruit, berry, forest and decorative plants

rootstock scion
1. Aronia chokeberry Pear - cultivars
2. Common barberry Myagonia holly
3. White warty birch Karelian birch (inhabits forests
Spas-Demensky district of the Kaluga
4. White warty birch ‘Birch; pyramid shape
5. White warty birch Birch; Board-shaped form
6. Bulberries soft pear-cultural
(North American)
7. hawthorn (different species) Moravian Vishnya Vladimir cherries

Cherry wild steppe ; Form
10. Cherry Vladimir Cherry Japanese
11 .. Vishnya felt Persian - Early Nedny varieties
12. Cherry of felt
13. cherries Almond Posrednik Michurin
15. Common wild pear Henomeles (quince low)
16. Pear - cultivars Aronia chokeberry
17. Pear - Cultural varieties Henomeles (Aiva Low)
18. Pear Ussuriyskaya Wild Henomoles (Aiva Low)
19. Honeysuckle Tatar Honeysuckle
Irga (native) Pear - cultivars
22. Irga spiked Pear - cultivars
23. Irga round-leaved Pear - cultivars
24. Irgayster (cotoneaster) Pear - cultivars
25. Tree-like caragana (yellow acacia) Altai dwarf caragana

26.. Tree-like caragana (yellow acacia) Karagana; Deathmate form

27. Horse cashtan ordinary horse cashtan pavi
28. Horse cashtan ordinary horse cashtan meat-red
29. Horse cashtan caste cashtan Chinese
30. Plain-shaped or ishone0154 Plane maple; shape
variegated (bordered)
31. Sycamore or Norway maple Sycamore maple: Reitenbach's shape

32. Sycamore or Norway maple Sycamore maple; shape
33. Sycamore or Norway maple Sycamore maple;
Schwedler shape
34. Sycamore or Norway maple Sycamore maple: Stoll shape
35. Ash-leaved or Negundo maple Ash-leaved maple; form
with white-variegated leaves (from Chernihiv)
36. Bean almond Apricot - early ripe varieties
37. Bean almond Plum - local varieties
38. Plum - local varieties Cherry Plum - local varieties Cherry plum - Altai hybrids
40. Plum - local varieties Plum (plum) Pissarda purple-leaved
41. Plum - local varieties Almond three-lobed Chinese rose-double
(Prunus triloba)
42. Golden currant (American) Gooseberry - cultivated varieties

43. Currant (American) Black currant - cultivated varieties low) Pear - cultivars
45. Bird cherry Laurel cherry officinalis
46. Bird cherry Bird cherry
47. Bird cherry Maaka Sweet cherry - early ripe varieties
48. Common ash Lilac - cultivars

Unusual grafting, or What can be grafted on in the garden and garden

Adding an article to a new collection

Grafting is most often used to propagate varietal trees. This technique allows you to get more productive and decorative crops. But not many people know that plants can be grafted not only in the garden, but also in the garden.

By mastering the technique of grafting, you can create an unusual garden with unique flora. But keep in mind: on some crops and certain varieties, grafted cuttings and buds do not take root well. Therefore, it is better to do several vaccinations in the hope that at least one of them will be successful.

Tree with different varieties

If you only have a small area for your garden and you want to grow crops of different varieties, try placing them on the same plant. Such a "family" tree is best obtained from an apple tree.

Select a winter variety apple tree as a rootstock and graft 2-3 varieties with different ripening times onto it. So you can enjoy fresh fruits throughout the season.

Grafting should be done only on young trees and on skeletal branches close to the trunk. Otherwise, the tissues on the stock and scion will not grow together.

If you want to surprise your relatives and neighbors, try grafting a pear on an apple tree. It will be easier to harvest from this plant, since apple trees tend to grow lower than pears. But on the contrary, it is unlikely that it will be possible to do it: an apple tree on a pear takes root very poorly.

You can also try to graft several varieties of pear on the crown of a varietal mountain ash. So you get a very unusual and winter-hardy tree.

Pears of varieties take root well on mountain ash: Cathedral, Lada, Martovskaya, Moskvichka, Pamyati Yakovlev, Chizhovskaya.

Experimental gardeners graft pear on hawthorn, shadberry and even chokeberry. On them, pear fruits are distinguished by excellent taste and large size, but such trees are short-lived: they live only up to 8 years. Therefore, every year in spring it is recommended to plant 2-3 new cuttings to replace aging shoots.

Irga and aronia are able to grow in areas with close groundwater, so grafting on these trees helps to grow pear in unsuitable conditions for it.

In the spring (usually in the second half of April), the pear is grafted using improved copulation methods, in a T-shaped incision or in a split. And in the summer you can also vaccinate with an eye.

Berry bushes on a bole

Such unusual berry trees attract the eye of even those people who are indifferent to any plants. Most often in the gardens you can find the standard chokeberry (up to 3 m high), but the standard forms of gooseberries and currants look more exotic. This effect can only be achieved with the help of grafting, since the formation does not bring the desired results due to the abundant growth and fragility of the branches.

These small trees not only bear excellent fruit, but also look very decorative. Large, clean and juicy berries ripen on them.

It is recommended to graft gooseberries and currants on a 2-3-year-old golden currant seedling. It can be bought in a specialized nursery or grown independently from seeds that are sown in the fall. Grafting should be carried out in the spring with cuttings prepared in the fall and the improved copulation method should be used for this.

Why do unusual grafting of garden plants?

You will find the answer in our table. In it, we indicated the correct combinations of rootstocks and scions and the result that you will get after grafting.

Graft (cutting)

Rootstock (plant on which it is grafted)

Fruit tree grafting secrets you didn't know about

Fruit tree grafting is a creative process, but requires adherence to strict rules. In this direction, you can experiment endlessly, if you do not feel sorry for the trees and the time spent. But it is better to know the experience of those who have been doing this for a long time, so as not to learn from their mistakes. For the first time, it is better to practice on unnecessary branches - this will give self-confidence and allow you to understand how to handle a knife, cut a tree. When a pear grows on an apple tree, or fruits of different varieties grow on an apple tree, it seems like a small miracle. At such moments, when the efforts are finally crowned with success, you feel like a creator, you are proud of the achievement, and this is quite justified.

Grafting of fruit trees: what is it and what is its purpose

Another purpose of this procedure is to increase resistance to frost. In pursuit of this goal, the basis (stock) will be a tree whose variety is adapted to the conditions of the area, and the scion will be a more southern variety.

General rules and concepts of tree crossing

For grafting fruit trees, the following concepts are typical:0003

When using any crossing method, it is necessary to follow the general rules:

  • Preliminary preparation of both parts to be crossed. The soil of the main tree must be cleared of weeds, loosened, and the scion hardened.
  • All instruments to be used for making cuts must be clean and sharp.
  • If duct tape is used, it must be wound with the sticky side away from the plant to reduce the flow of harmful substances from it into the trunk.
  • If the stock or scion was transplanted from one place to another, then it is necessary to wait 1-2 years before the crossing process. When grafted, some successfully cross even with a scion that was in the freezer.
  • It is undesirable to use wild forms of apple trees, pears, etc., since then the tree may have a tendency in this, not very desirable, direction. "Dichka" is very popular as a rootstock, but if it is possible to use a better quality rootstock, it is better to use it. The Antonovka apple tree is also considered not a very successful rootstock, which does not allow you to get the best result in terms of fruits.

Help. Crossing of trees is carried out only in spring or summer.

What kind of fruit trees can be crossed with each other

“Oranges will not be born from an aspen” - this statement is true for all natural space: people, animals and plants. No matter how hard you try, you won’t be able to grow tangerines on a Christmas tree. You can see the compatibility of plants by their botanical relationship. Consider the most popular crossed plants.

Apple cross

A very popular garden tree that grows on almost everyone in the garden. Even from the usual "wild" you can make a noble tree with fragrant fruits. Types of scion:

  • Apple tree, varieties Antonovka, Anis, Kitaika, plum-leaved apple tree, clone rootstocks A2, MM 106, 5-25-3, 54-118, M9, 62-396.
  • Pear.
  • Plum.
  • Hawthorn.
  • Cotoneaster.

Crossing pear

Do not forget that the rootstock and scion must be suitable for the local climate. On a pear, you can only graft a pear of a different variety - Tonkovetka, Limonka, Aleksandrovka, Vishnevka. Whereas it can be grafted on a whole range of trees:

Plum crossing

If desired, it can be grown even in the northern areas, this, of course, will affect the taste of the fruit, but for compote or jam it will be quite a suitable option:

  • Apricot, main stock - apricot itself, poles, seedlings of cherry plum, blackthorn and sand cherry. Unsuccessful as a rootstock.
  • Cherry, the most successful seedlings: Izmailovskaya (PN), Muscovy (P-3), AVCh-2, VP-1, Rubin.
  • Teren, also good for apricot.
  • Cherry plum, also compatible with perique.

Crossing cherries

In this case, you can only graft cherries on cherries, but not vice versa.

Crossing currants

  • Gooseberries are compatible with currants as a rootstock and scion, when crossed they are frost-resistant and drought-tolerant.
  • Josta.

How to choose a rootstock and scion

Rootstock is the basis for grafting. Nutrients and water will flow through the root system of the stock, the longevity of the tree and, to some extent, productivity depend on the rootstock. The choice of rootstock must be taken responsibly and pay attention to the fact that the rootstock must be:

  • compatible with the scion;
  • frost resistant;
  • adapted to local conditions;
  • resistant to high or insufficient moisture;
  • have a strong root system.

The quality and quantity of the crop depends on the scion. Basically, cuttings are cut from trees that are already bearing fruit. When choosing a tree as a scion, you should pay attention to the purity of the variety and the quality of the crop. Cuttings are cut from the south side, in the sun - there they are correctly formed. It is better to do this from the branches of the middle tiers. The most suitable cuttings are 35-40 cm long.

Exception! Cherry cuttings should be longer - about 70 cm, all because the upper buds are flower.

Tools used for grafting

When can fruit trees be grafted

Can be grafted throughout the year, but it is best to do this in the spring from March to the first half of June. Usually cuttings are harvested in the fall, but can be cut in the spring, but before the buds swell.

Procurement and storage of cuttings for grafting

Scion harvesting must be completed in a timely manner. In order to instill in the spring, harvesting is carried out in the fall before frost. It is better to sign each cutting - attach a piece of paper with the name of the variety. Cut cuttings are buried in a bunch in the ground to a depth of 25-30 centimeters, covering with straw or dry foliage from severe frosts. They do this in order to keep the kidneys in a "sleeping" state.

Important! In order to protect cuttings cut and buried in the ground from mice, a layer of glass wool is laid under and above them.

Cuttings are taken out not earlier than one day before inoculation. For grafting in the summer, the cuttings are cut off immediately before the procedure itself. It is better to stock up on an extra number of cuttings - suddenly some sections will be of poor quality, or some of the cuttings will not tolerate wintering well.

Grafting methods

There are several methods for grafting fruit trees.

Per bark

This method is suitable for grafting mature trees or plants with thick rootstocks. Such an inoculation is carried out during a period of good separation of the bark from the wood - during sap flow. The inclined cut of the cutting is completely thrust under the bark of the tree.


This method of grafting is mainly used by amateur gardeners. A cut is made on the tree trunk, which decreases towards the bottom. The scion, which has 2 buds, is cut obliquely on both sides and wedged into the notch. After that, they are tied and covered with garden pitch.


This method is used for grafting where the stock is at least 5 cm thick. The stock is cut so that a stump is obtained, and an incision is made. A stalk with 2 cuts in the form of a wedge is inserted into this incision. Processed with var and tied. The method is applicable to mature trees.


The copulation method is used if the plants have the same stems, and mainly young trees are grafted with this method. On the scion, a cut is made at an angle of 30 degrees, the same cut is performed on the rootstock branch. The scion and stock are connected by cut points and wrapped with polyethylene or other special material.

Important! To use the copulation method, the thickness of the scion and rootstock must be the same.


Budding is the easiest way to convert a wild apple tree into another, more desirable species. The method is very simple, and even a novice gardener can easily master it.

Seedling or 2-year-old seedling, 5-6 ml thick. it is necessary to make an incision as follows:

  • a notch is made on the bark, a kind of checkmark;
  • 2-3 cm higher along the bark, a thin layer of bark is cut through to the first cut;
  • the bark is removed up to the first cut;
  • it turns out a kind of incision with a "tongue".

We cut out the bud from the scion, the plant that needs to be grafted, getting the so-called "shield".

  • An incision is made above the kidney from top to bottom;
  • An incision is made below the kidney from top to bottom;
  • From below - upwards, the bark is cut with a kidney.
  • We insert the “shield” into the “tongue” of the seedling.
  • We fasten the two parts, for this purpose you can use a stretch film, wrapping it with a thin layer over the entire budding surface, including the kidney itself.
  • After 2-3 weeks, shorten the seedling at a distance of 10-15 cm from the grafting site. If the kidney is still alive after 2-3 weeks, then it is necessary to cut it immediately above it. It is carried out by splicing branches by cutting bark or wood. At the same time, the root systems of plants remain their own. As soon as the scion begins to grow rapidly, it is cut from the root.

    By cuttings

    This method is more difficult to perform, but after several executions it will no longer seem so.

    • Two grafted shoots are selected with the following characteristics: twig with leaf buds - they are thinner and sharper than flower buds (flowers are fuller).
    • We cut off the branch with a file, to which it will be necessary to attach the process. Carefully clean the movements of the knife away from you.
    • From cutting at a distance of 5-7 cm, wrap with electrical tape to prevent further splitting.
    • We split the base to which we will graft to a depth of 2 cm, the lower part of the cut will be in the form of a “laceration”, which will allow the trunk to grow together faster.
    • The grafted shoots need to be made a “wedge” on both sides — they should be trimmed 2-3 cm. the tubercle could grow. The appearance of the cut and two processes will resemble a "Y".
    • From the bottom up from the original winding, it is tightly wrapped with electrical tape - always with the adhesive side outward, away from the wood. First, it is recommended to wrap the place of the cut and only then cover it up so that it grows together better. From above, it is more efficient to cut the cut with pieces of electrical tape, and then wrap the barrel with a spiral again.
    • Exposed process shoulders, ends and cuts must be covered with garden putty. You can walk with putty and along the tips of the plant so that they do not dry out.
    • Use a vine or reed to connect the tips of the branches.
    • A white bag is put on top and wrapped with electrical tape at the base. The use of dark packages should be avoided, as this can lead to the creation of a greenhouse effect.

    How long does the grafting take root

    If the grafting itself is carried out correctly and the plant that is grafted is properly cared for, in about 2-3 years you will enjoy a new harvest.

    Caring for fruit trees after grafting

    After grafting, the plant needs care. As soon as the scion has taken root, the bandage is removed, sometimes it is made weaker. The plant itself is tied to a support, protecting it from the wind in this way. A grafted tree needs moisture and should be watered regularly. It is necessary occasionally to loosen the earth around, very carefully so as not to damage the root system. Fertilize with humus and potassium salt.

    Tips for a successful vaccination

    • Grafting by any method must be carried out quickly so that the edges of the cuttings do not dry out.
    • Needs a sharp cutting knife.
    • Tools must be clean.
    • When grafting an adult tree, grafting is done every few years. Start grafting from the highest branches.
    • The procedure is not carried out in rainy or extremely hot weather.

    Thanks to the grafting of fruit trees, it becomes possible to grow several different varieties of pears, apples, plums and other fruits on one trunk. To do this, you need to have only a few fruit trees in the garden. Thus, an improvement in the quality and quantity of the crop is achieved. There is no need to uproot old trees that have become less fruitful in order to plant new ones in their place. It will be a long time before the first harvest. It is more effective to graft already growing trees in the garden, and after 2-4 years enjoy the harvest of a new, tasty and large crop.


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    Growing maple on stem

    What can be grafted onto in the garden: a description of the most effective grafting methods with step-by-step instructions, a table of crops that can be grafted together.


    What is the best rootstock?

    The best rootstock is the same type of plant as the scion branch. This means that apple tree should be grafted on apple tree, pear on pear and so on. However, selection work and the development of nursery expanded these boundaries. To date, there are a large number of breeding rootstocks for cherry, bred by hybridizing it with bird cherry and other methods. There are dwarf and clone rootstocks for apple, pear, cherry, plum.

    What is grafting and what is it used for

    Grafting allows you to combine several species or varieties of plants into a single crop. The resulting hybrids have increased yields, better tolerate adverse environmental factors, such as drought or frost, and are also resistant to diseases and pests (Figure 1).

    Note: Grafting is also carried out for old trees. This procedure helps to rejuvenate them and increase productivity.

    The grafting method has several other important advantages:

    1. A tree grown from an ordinary seed often does not have varietal characteristics of the species, and its fruits have no value. Proper vaccination will help maintain the viability of the game, but increase its yield. In addition, grafted trees begin to bear fruit much earlier than ungrafted ones.
    2. This technique allows you to grow capricious horticultural crops in unsuitable climatic conditions. For example, with the right peach rootstock, you can maintain crop productivity and increase its resistance to frost.
    3. Grafting allows you to increase or decrease the height of the crop by adding dwarf or giant rootstocks to the mother plant.

    Figure 1. Grafting helps to increase the yield of trees and their resistance to adverse climates

    In addition, this procedure is ideal for summer residents who do not have a spacious plot at their disposal. By growing several rootstocks on one tree at once, you can get a rich harvest and save space in the garden.

    Grafting of fruit trees: what is it and what is its purpose

    Grafting of fruit trees is the engraftment of cuttings of another plant on one plant. This procedure is carried out when there is a desire to improve the harvest - to renew an old tree that has reduced fertility, as well as in order to obtain several varieties of crop on one trunk.

    Another purpose of this procedure is to increase resistance to frost. In pursuit of this goal, the basis (stock) will be a tree whose variety is adapted to the conditions of the area, and the scion will be a more southern variety.

    About grafts

    It is better to prepare cuttings of the desired variety at the end of November - December, before frost hits. Usually they take the growths of this summer, last year's at least, tie them in bunches, sign the variety, wrap it in foil and bury it in the snow in a place where it will not melt during thaws. Cuttings should lie in the cold until the vaccination. The cuttings that have started to dig take root very poorly.

    About the timing of grafting

    The graft grows well when the stock is in an active state - there is increased sap flow, leaves bloom, new shoots grow. Calendarly, this is April-May (grafting with a cutting) and July - the beginning of August (budding). In August, work is completed by the 10th-15th, so that the buds have time to grow together well before the onset of cold weather. Grafting dates for most plants are universal and only in some cases are slightly shifted or are more compressed.

    What is the best rootstock for an apple tree

    When growing seedlings, rootstocks grown from seeds of the species that are going to be grafted are most preferred. For an apple tree, the seeds of Antonovka or Anisov are sown on the rootstock. For pear rootstock, seedlings of Tonkovetka, Bere yellow, Bessemyanka varieties are suitable. Cherry rootstock is grown by sowing seeds from varieties Vladimirka, Shubinka. Seedlings of Tern or Ternoslivy are suitable for a plum rootstock. Grown seedlings of the above varieties have sufficient winter hardiness and are almost completely compatible with all varieties of fruit trees.

    In nurseries, clonal semi-dwarf and dwarf rootstocks are most often used, which is justified by the ease and speed of their reproduction. When sold, plants on such rootstocks are positioned as suitable for planting in areas with close groundwater. This question is rather controversial. The surface root system is more vulnerable to drying out, wetting and freezing in snowless winters than the taproot system of vigorous (grafted onto seedlings) trees.

    Why do unusual grafting of garden plants?

    You will find the answer in our table. In it, we indicated the correct combinations of rootstocks and scions and the result that you get after grafting.

    Scion (stalk)

    Rootstock (plant to be grafted onto)

    Effect achieved


    Hawthorn, Japanese quince

    Precocity, reduction in tree height


    Increase winter hardiness

    Irga, chokeberry

    Precocity, ability to bend branches to protect against frost



    Increasing winter hardiness, reducing gum disease


    Felt cherry

    Tree height reduction


    Growing on dry soil

    Cherry plum

    Wet cultivation


    Plum, felt cherry

    Increase winter hardiness

    Cherry plum

    Plum, turn


    Felt cherry

    Japanese quince

    Rowan red, hawthorn



    Root resistance to frost



    Sweet fruit

    Aronia, Japanese quince

    Rowan red

    Standard plants

    Gooseberries, red and black currants

    Golden Currant

    Tools used for grafting

    Garden knife for cutting thin twigs.

    • Secateurs for cutting cuttings.
    • Pruning saw - if you need to cut a thick branch.
    • Garden var to cover cuts.
    • Insulating tape for tying the vaccination site.
    • Alcohol to disinfect instruments.

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    How long does the grafting take root

    If the grafting itself is carried out correctly and the plant that is grafted is properly cared for, in about 2-3 years you will enjoy a new harvest.

    How to graft decorative maple

    This photo was taken in Ufa a few years ago. It depicts a fragment of an alley where spherical maples (ACER PLATANOIDES “GLOBOSUM”), brought from a foreign nursery, are planted. Now the trees have grown, the crowns have become more lush and have the shape of a flattened ball with a diameter of about 3 meters.

    We liked these plants very much, and there was a great desire to grow the same beautiful trees in our summer cottage. It should be noted that this type of maple has a height of 4 - 5 m, does not require forming pruning. tolerates our Ural winters well. The leaves are large, five-lobed, orange-red when blooming, green in summer, and turning yellow with a reddish tint in autumn. Prefers sunny or semi-shady places of growth. Resistant to heat, drought and wind.

    How to graft maple

    Globular maple is propagated by grafting onto a rootstock of the same species. We used 3-year-old common maple rootstocks, which can be found at any forest edge in Central Russia. The cuttings were cut from the mother plant on the day of vaccination, which was carried out at the end of March. It should be borne in mind that the maple has an early period of active sap flow, which can interfere with a good fusion of the components.

    For grafting, the method was used, budding the buttstock with a germinating eye (kidney). As a rule, spherical maple is grafted onto a stem with a height of 1.5 to 2.5 meters. It is important to regularly remove any fresh growths below the grafting site that may appear on the rootstock trunk. If you graft a cutting near the root neck, you can get an interesting round-shaped plant lying on the ground.

    The photo below shows the maple grafting that took place this year. After the awakening of the kidney, the new shoot begins to grow very quickly and in a month reaches a length of 50 cm. For insurance, 2 buds were grafted onto one stock, in order to leave a stronger shoot in the future, and remove the weak one.

    More information on maple grafting can be found here.

    And now, we want to turn to gardeners who have had a similar experience in grafting and ask if the grafting of the central shoot of the scion is necessary for better tillering this year, or should it be postponed until next season?

    Please write your answers in the comments.

    All the best to you!

    How to graft maple

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    If the growth of grafting is good, then it makes sense to cut the shoot by 3-4 buds for branching and faster formation. the sooner this is done, the more time will be for the growth wood to mature. If the vaccination shoot is weak. it is better to leave it until next year without shortening and shaping to carry out next year.

    Thank you Arkady, the growth is strong, I'll try to cut it.

    For the first time I hear about grafting non-fruit trees. But such original trees would greatly decorate the lawns near the offices.

    Thank you for an interesting article, but why graft trees that don't bear fruit? What's the point in that?:)

    Dmitry, your question puzzled me. And why do amateur gardeners grow roses with thorns and many other ornamental plants? Maybe they like it and they enjoy the process and contemplation of the result?

    I have been grafting apple trees for 20 years. I have 25 varieties in my garden, and 30 pieces of apple trees. There are 2-4 varieties on one. I have been thinking about grafting wild plants for a long time and even tried it - cedar on pine and other things.

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