How to grow a jujube tree from seed

How to Germinate Jujube | Home Guides

By SF Gate Contributor Updated November 09, 2020

Sometimes called Chinese date, the common jujube (Ziziphus jujuba) is a deciduous tree grown for its light green foliage and sweet, edible fruit. According to the Urban Forest Ecosystems Institute, it grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 to 10, where it will reach a mature height of 25 feet with an open, rounded canopy. Although most commonly propagated using vegetative methods, jujube trees will also grow dependably from seed. The seeds require little monitoring or care once sown, but they must be thoroughly cleaned and pretreated before planting to ensure successful germination.

  1. 1. Harvest the Seeds

    Gather jujube seeds in late summer or fall after the fruit ripens to a glossy, reddish-brown color and there are no hints of green left at the ends. Collect three or four fruits to increase the chances of finding one with a viable seed.

  2. 2. Extract the Brown Stone

    Score lengthwise around the fruit with a paring knife and pry the two halves apart to extract the large, light brown stone. Soak the stone in warm water for an hour. Gently scrub away any clinging flesh. Rinse them thoroughly and lay the seeds on a paper towel to drain.

  3. 3. Wait for the Seeds to Ripen

    Store the jujube stones in a paper bag away from moisture and direct light to allow the seed to finish ripening. Keep them in an area where temperatures stay around 70 degrees Fahrenheit, such as inside a kitchen cupboard. Move them to cold storage in two to three months.

  4. 4. Cold Stratify the Seeds

    Wrap the jujube stones in moist sphagnum moss and place them inside a sealable plastic bag. Leave the bag open 1 inch to allow excess moisture to escape. Store the seeds in the refrigerator for two to three months to cold stratify. Moisten the sphagnum moss whenever it feels barely damp.

  5. 5. Soak the Seeds

    Remove the jujube stones from the refrigerator after the cold stratification period has ended. Place them in a bowl. The Zhong Wei Horticultural Products Company says to cover them with just-boiled water and soak them for 24 hours.

  6. 6. Scarify the Seeds

    Rub the side of each jujube stone with a steel rasp until a small hole forms or gently crack the endocarp with a handheld nutcracker. This is known as scarifying the seed. It weakens the endocarp, or hard outer layer, so the seed inside will germinate faster.

  7. 7. Sow the Seeds

    Sow the processed jujube seeds in individual 4-inch pots filled with sterile potting mix. Sow them 1/2 inch deep. Water each pot after sowing to help settle the soil.

  8. 8. Use a Germination Mat

    Place the potted jujube seeds inside a greenhouse, insulated cold frame or indoors near a large, sunny window when growing jujube in container. Warm the pots with a germination mat set to 80 F during the day and 60 F at night.

  9. 9. Keep the Soil Moist

    Monitor the moisture level in the potting mix closely because it will dry out quickly with the warm temperatures. Add water whenever it feels mostly dry in the top 1/4 inch. Water until it feels moderately moist but not soggy in the top 1 inch.

  10. 10. Watch for Germination

    Watch for germination in three to four weeks. Keep the germination mat in place for another two weeks, then begin turning it off during the day. Warm the pots at night for another week, then remove the germination mat completely.

  11. 11. Transplant the Seedlings

    Move the jujube seedlings outdoors to a warm, sheltered spot when outdoor temperatures are above 55 F at night. Transplant the seedlings into 2-gallon pots filled with potting soil once they produce several sets of mature leaves.

    Things You Will Need

    Grow the jujube trees in containers with direct sun exposure and 1 inch of water weekly for their first year. Transplant them into a permanent bed with full sun exposure and fast-draining soil in fall of their second year.


  • Urban Forest Ecosystems Institute: Chinese Jujube
  • Zhong Wei Horticultural Products Company: Ziziphus Jujuba Seeds

How to Grow Jujube Plant from Seed

Want a plant that gives you the fruit with little or no effort. Then you need to know how to grow the Jujube plant from seed. This Chinese native plant, also known as Chinese date, is very easy to take care of and is resilient. It provides comfort and fruit to the gardener after the process of planting is done properly.

Jujube Fruit

Are jujube and dates the same?

Jujube fruit has been used as a medicine for more than thirty centuries. Nowadays this fruit is popular all over the world. This plant is native to China. This is also known by some other names such as Chinese date and red date. Native to Chinese areas, it has been grown in the US areas for around one and a half centuries.

The fruit ranges in shape and size. It can be as small as a cherry or as big as a plum. It has edible skin like dates and whitish flesh inside. When ripened it turns red and has wrinkles on it. Jujube is still edible when it turns into hot red.

Moreover, this plant has green and white flowers which create a good sense of decoration. Also, this plant’s fruit has many health benefits. You can use it as medicine in many cases in consultation with a doctor or proper physician. The reason for this is that it is known as ancient medicine.

Why a Jujube Fruit Plant?

How big do jujube trees get?

Consider growing this plant in your home garden as it has many benefits. This plant can grow up to 30 to 50 feet high. Which makes it one of the shade-providing trees for the gardeners. Also, the ornamental value of flowers and these flowers turn into red dates, which have many medical benefits and are delicious to eat.

Secondly, this plant is native to China, but it has been grown in other parts of the world for quite some time. Especially in the United States, it has grown for more than a century. Its hardiness zones are 7 to 10. It is widely grown in sub-tropical areas and even in temperate zones like the Northwest.

Also, this plant is easy to take care of. You just have to follow the set of information from the start of the germination process till the plantation. Then it can grow in any soil, without minding any pH in the given soil. It needs sunlight to effectively grow. 

So, these available benefits and little or no care to grow this beautiful fruitful Jujube makes it a more desirable plant for gardeners. These Jujube plants are also drought tolerant and prickly.

Adding further to its easiness, these Jujube plants are pests and disease resistant. There is not much to take care of in this regard. So once planted successfully, you can enjoy it for a longer period of time.

How to Grow Jujube Plant from Seeds

Can you grow a jujube from seed?

Growing the jujube fruit is not so difficult. You have to follow some normal steps and you are good to go. Most people have found it very easy because of the results (in the shape of trees and fruit) it has produced. Follow these steps to grow this plant. 

Getting the Jujube Plant Seeds

How do you germinate jujube seeds?

First of all, get the jujube fruit which is ripened enough and has a red color. Peel it and take the seeds out. Wash it and scrub the seeds in the running water to remove any of the flesh.

Cold Stratification of Seeds

Get the seeds in the sealable plastic bag and wrap them in the sphagnum moss. Leave the bag half-open to get the excess moisture out. Then store the seeds in the refrigerator for two or three months to stratify. Moisten the sphagnum moss when you feel it damp inside.

Soaking and Scarifying the Jujube Plant Seeds

Then soak the seeds in the bowl of water for around 24 hours. Jujube fruit doesn’t need any special treatment to break dormancy. Rub the sides of the jujube seeds and crack the endocarp with a nutcracker. It breaks the harder core outside and helps in the fast germination of seeds.

Soil Preparation and Sowing Jujube Fruit Seeds

Mix half of the soil and half of the organic compost material. Make sure the pot has enough drainage holes so that excess water is out and does not cause any problems inside the pot or a container. You should also check for any weeds in the mixture of the soil. Get the soil moistened by spraying or pouring the water.

Now fill the pot with the mixture that you have prepared. Sow the jujube seeds about half-inch to one-fourth inches deep. Keep a small layer of soil on the seeds. You can press the seeds down in the soil. After it has been sown, water the soil and keep the pot in a sunny place where it should get a temperature around 65 to 75 F.

Now everything is in place. You need to keep watering to keep up with the moisture until the seeds have germinated. Once the seeds have started sprouting, allow the sprouted seedlings to dry between the two periods of watering.

Transplanting the Jujube Seedlings to Beds

Now if the seedlings of jujube fruits have grown about 5 to 7 inches tall, you need to transplant them to the beds or the area where you want to plant the jujube.

Preparing the Soil and Planting Jujube Plants

Select the location wherever you want. This plant can survive very harsh cold weather up to -29 F. But it is good if the selected place has warm temperatures and sunny weather. Because this plant prefers such conditions.

Amend and till the soil by digging the soil up to 5 inches deep. Now sow the seedlings at the same level as they were in the pot. Make sure the soil is moistened before sowing and the holes have covered the root balls of the seedlings.

Water the plants enough until the soil puddles. Make sure to keep a reasonable distance among the plants while planting. As mentioned previously this plant can grow up to 40 to 50 feet long. So, the distance between the plants is necessary to keep up with the required space.

Taking Care of Jujube Fruit Plants

Care for the jujube is not very intensive. This plant is drought-tolerant, and it can survive in the harsh winters also. It can survive at low temperatures., but it prefers warm and sunny weather.

Watering Schedule for Jujube Fruit Plants

How often do you water jujube trees?

In the start when planted, watering is necessary. You have to keep up with the required amount of moisture. You can check the moisture in the uppermost layer of the soil with the help of your fingers.

Once established, you can reduce the frequency of watering the plants to once a month. It is drought tolerant, but proper watering in the early phase is required. It has been observed that those plants performed well, that were watered well in the early phase of growth.

Use of Fertilizers for Jujube Fruit Plants

As the seedlings were planted when they were the size of 5 cm. You should add fertilizers to ensure consistent growth. Once the plant has grown up to 60 to 65 cm long you can decrease the frequency of adding fertilizers.

Keep a keen eye on your plant. Pale and yellow leaves show a deficiency of nutrients. If you see such symptoms add fertilizers that have iron, manganese, or magnesium. You can also consult with nearby horticulturists.

Grafting the Jujube Fruit Plants

Most of the time jujube plants get to the fruiting without grafting. Sometimes it misses because of not being grafted. You can graft it to make sure it produces fruits. You can remove the branches from the side and perform the process of grafting on the main stem also as you want. Plants will be ready for grafting in about two years.

Pruning the Jujube Fruit Plant

Jujube fruits are fast-growing plants, as it is drought tolerant, when it is under the care of the gardener it grows faster. You can prune it to keep a nice shape and make it look good. You can prune the jujube plants when they are dormant, in the late fall or early winter.

Picking the Jujube Fruit

These fruits are ready to be picked and eaten when their color changes from light green to brown. To enjoy it, pick it up in the morning for the finest flavor. These fruits can be used in many ways. You can eat it raw, or you can use it in many recipes as it tastes like apples.

The majority of jujube fruits ripen in the month of October. If picked green, it will not get to the full ripening stage. If it is picked pale yellow, it will ripen to the full stage of red. When sealed in a plastic bag and exposed to ethylene gas it will get fully ripened. The ripened fruit is more delicious to eat.

In a nutshell, by planting the jujube you will not only add one fruitful tree to the garden, but you will be able to get many benefits in different aspects from this tree with little effort.

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Torenia growing from seeds at home (+ photo)


  • Varieties of torenia and photographs of flowers
  • Growing torenia from seeds
  • Rules for caring for torenia
  • Use in landscape design
  • Diseases and prevention measures

Torenia is a small annual plant native to Southeast Asia. It is valued for its bright and unusual flowers, lush foliage and long flowering - from June to August. This flower from the norichnikov family can be colored in purple, purple, blue, pink and red, grown mainly at home.

Varieties of torenia and photos of flowers

Before growing torenia, you should decide on the most suitable variety. Most often, the Fournier variety is grown at home - low, lush shoots, very plentiful and long flowering. There is also yellow and heart-leaved fraying, they are more suitable for planting in open ground.

Fournier also has several varieties, Duchesse and SummerWave. Duchess has an unusual color - the upper half of the petal is pink, and the lower one is white, decorated with one bright yellow spot. This variety is slightly taller than the others, 20-25 centimeters in height.

SummerWave is best grown in hanging pots. Their shoots are not directed upwards, they descend to a length of up to 30 centimeters.

Growing threnia from seeds

The temperature of 21-25 degrees is required for the germination of threnia.

The planting of threnia starts in March. To ensure good germination, you need to prepare the correct composition of the substrate.

For this you will need:

  • a small amount of vermiculite;
  • clayey, fertile soil;
  • hydrogel.

First, sterilize the soil with a weak solution of potassium permanganate to disinfect it and protect the seeds from diseases and parasites. Mix 30 hydrogel granules into the sterilized soil so that they are close to the surface. Hydrogel helps to retain soil moisture for a long time.

Seeds are sown in watered, well-moistened soil, and sprinkled with a small layer of vermiculite on top. To maintain the temperature and reduce the evaporation of moisture, containers with soil are covered with cling film. The optimum temperature for seed germination is 21-25 degrees.


As soon as the first shoots appear, the cling film is no longer needed. Now young plants need a lighted and cooler place, about 16-18 degrees.

Important. Torenia loves light, so on cloudy days you need to provide it with additional lighting.

Tender sprouts aged 2-3 weeks should only be sprayed to avoid damaging their fragile structure. After the appearance of the third leaf, sprouts and small pots can be transplanted. The composition of the substrate remains the same, only vermiculite is mixed into the soil in a ratio of 1/5 instead of a thin top layer.

After the appearance of the third leaf, the sprouts can be transplanted.

After a while, when small plants get stronger, they can be transplanted into large pots along with the soil from small ones. The composition of the soil does not need to be changed, and plants can be planted several times in one pot, they coexist well.

In order for the plant to have its famous volume, you need to pluck the upper active leaves. This stimulates the growth of side shoots and enhances the foliage.

If planting fraying in open ground, this can only be done at the beginning of June. The weather must become consistently warm so that sudden frosts at night do not destroy the carefully grown seedlings.

Rules for the care of torrenia

Torenia is a photophilous plant, however, it suffers from direct sunlight. The flowers are very delicate, so the sunlight should be diffused. Without regular watering, the plant withers in record time, you should always monitor the moisture content of the earth in a pot. Hydrogel is well suited for the accumulation of moisture. You can’t put fraying near the battery either, this will create too much temperature difference that the plant cannot tolerate. You should also not put the pot in a draft.

Place the Torenia flower where there is no sunlight but diffused light.

When watering the flower, make sure that the soil does not rot due to abundant moisture. Also, water droplets should not fall on the flowers themselves if the plant is in the sun - the droplets serve as something like a small magnifying glass, helping the sun burn the petals.

Important. In order to keep the air around the flower moist, on particularly hot days it is sprayed a little with water from all sides.

The plant is quite demanding on the soil, it needs to be loosened regularly, once every two weeks to improve growth, feed with complex mineral or liquid flower fertilizers. Loosening the soil helps to ventilate the roots, preventing rotting. So that fraying does not waste energy on withered flowers, they are removed as they dry, since they themselves do not fall off.

Landscape use

Landscape designers especially appreciate this flower for its very profuse flowering and splendor. Small bright flowers fit well in almost any environment, making good contact and combining with other flowers.


Torenia best of all coexists with lobelias, hostas, balsams, zinnias, nasturtiums and sulfinias, but alone it perfectly decorates the territory. These colors are good to focus on various important and eye-catching buildings in the garden - verandas, gazebos, etc.

Torrenia looks good in the garden - porches and gazebos.

Different varieties of torenia can create a whole sea of ​​different shades, colors, patterns, while surprisingly combining with each other.

Torenia can be propagated only by seeds, but it does not require particularly careful handling and conditions, so it is easy to purchase several species to decorate the site with them.

Diseases, pests and preventive measures

If the plant has a spider mite, it is necessary to wash the plant and the pot, then treat it with a mite agent.

Torenia is surprisingly resistant to various pests and diseases, but some can still damage it:

  • Spider mites are very small spider-like pests. They are easy to miss, they live on the reverse sides of the sheet and are very similar to simple lumps of dirt, specks. You can judge their appearance by the withering, yellowing of the leaves, which can soon cover the entire plant. To get rid of them, the plant and pots are thoroughly washed, and then treated with special means to kill ticks.
  • Leaf spot is most often caused by bacteria, viruses or microscopic fungi. Infected torenia is quite difficult to cure, so this annual flower is most often simply thrown away. To prevent the appearance of spotting, you should disinfect the soil before sowing, monitor the appearance of the slightest signs of spotting on the leaves. Leaves even with a hint of infection are removed.

Torenia is beautiful, quite unpretentious and suitable for both home and garden. This plant can decorate and complement any area with just a little care and attention.

variety description, planting and care, pests, reviews with photo

Due to the variety of strawberry varieties, farmers and gardeners face a difficult choice every year. Indeed, through the efforts of breeders around the world, many hybrid varieties of garden berries have been created. Strawberries of the Marmalade variety, although not a development of domestic selection, have managed to fall in love with gardeners and farmers for their unique characteristics, the possibility of long-term storage and long-distance transportation.


The main requirements for horticultural crops are their productivity, unpretentiousness in care and high palatability.

History of Marmalade strawberry breeding

Garden strawberry Marmalade was bred by Italian breeders specifically for cultivation in private household plots at the end of the last century. Strawberry Gorella and variety Holiday were used for crossbreeding.

Fruit crop recommended for cultivation in mild, warm climates.

The new variety is not included in the state registers of fruit crops, but has become very popular among gardeners, gardeners and farmers in Russia and the CIS countries.

The main advantages and disadvantages of the variety

To make a decision on growing strawberries of the Marmelada variety, you need to get acquainted with all the advantages and possible disadvantages of the fruit crop.

Advantages of the variety:

  1. Marmalade easily tolerates frost and sudden changes in temperature, and the variety is also resistant to drought.
  2. The fruit crop has a natural immunity to fungal infections and pests.
  3. Early maturity.
  4. Taste qualities of berries are estimated by experts on the highest score.
  5. The variety is universal, suitable for consumption, both raw and processed.
  6. High yield. With proper care, the variety is able to produce 2 crops in 1 season.

Important! The ripened harvest of berries is perfectly stored, which allows transporting tasty, healthy berries over long distances.


  1. Influence of weather conditions on the taste of ripe berries.
  2. Fruit culture is demanding on the composition of the soil.
  3. With a dense planting of bushes, a decrease in the size of the berries is observed.
  4. From lack of moisture, the berries darken and deteriorate.
  5. Every 2-3 years of planting strawberries require renewal.

Variety Marmelada shows a high yield only for the first 2-3 years of growth, and then fruiting decreases.

Description and characteristics

Mankind has long known about the benefits of garden strawberries. Berries contain a huge amount of vitamins and nutrients necessary for the proper functioning of the body.

Shrubs and shoots

Berry bushes are low, compact, but powerful, with numerous shoots and large leaf plates of dark green shades. The leaves are located high above the soil surface, which allows the plant to receive a sufficient amount of sunlight, and makes it easier to harvest ripe berries.

Flowering and fruiting

At the end of spring, strawberry bushes develop inflorescences that open with large white flowers. The stems of the peduncles are dense and strong, rise above the bushes, which allows the ripe berries not to come into contact with the soil surface.

The variety begins to bear fruit from the first year of growth.

Although Marmalade is not a remontant variety, but from the second year of fruiting, the culture is able to produce 2 crops in one season.

The main harvest of ripe berries occurs at the end of June. Up to 900 g of ripe, fragrant berries weighing from 20 to 40 g are collected from one bush.

Taste and scope of berries

Due to the rich taste and pronounced aroma, strawberries of the Marmelada variety fully correspond to their name.

Ripe fruits of bright red color with juicy, dense pulp of sweet-sour taste and pronounced aroma.

Important! For transportation, the berry is removed at the stage of technical ripeness, when the fruits turn red, but not sweet enough.

Variety Marmalade universal, used fresh. Also, juices, nectars, compotes, jams, jams are made from berries. In cooking, berries are added to pastries, desserts, dairy products, dried and frozen.

Disease immunity

Strawberry hybrid variety has a stable immunity to root rot, powdery mildew, chlorosis and verticillosis. With proper care, berry bushes are rarely attacked by pests.

Frost and drought tolerance

A hybrid variety of garden berry easily withstands winter frosts down to -15 degrees. Further cooling requires additional warming of plants.

In dry times, fruit crops are additionally watered. The bushes will withstand the drought, but the lack of moisture negatively affects the taste of berries and yields.

For reference! In snowy winters, under large snowdrifts, Marmalade strawberries can withstand temperatures as low as -30-35 degrees.

Planting secrets

In order to grow Marmalade strawberries on a personal plot and get a high-quality harvest of healthy berries, you need to familiarize yourself with the rules for planting and further caring for the fruit crop.

Climatic conditions and growing area

A hybrid variety of garden berries has been released for cultivation in the continental climate of northern Italy. Perfectly takes root and ripens in a temperate climate and southern latitudes of Belarus, Ukraine and Russia. According to gardeners, due to their high resistance to low temperatures, Marmalade strawberries can also be grown in northern latitudes.

Predecessors and neighbors of the berry crop

One of the main conditions for growing strawberries is crop rotation. Fruit crops are not recommended to be planted on land where potatoes, eggplants or tomatoes previously grew.

Garlic, beets, lettuce and cucumbers are the best precursors for garden berries.

Garlic is considered a natural soil antibiotic that kills most fungal spores and pests in the soil. It has been scientifically proven that strawberries planted after garlic are less susceptible to viral and fungal infections and bear fruit better.

Site selection and soil requirements

A site is carefully selected for planting garden berries.

  1. Open, level, well-lit areas in the southern or southwestern part of the garden.
  2. Strawberry does not tolerate strong drafts and cold winds, also, the culture will not grow on steep slopes and in lowlands.
  3. Shrubs grow quickly and will require a lot of free space to grow and develop.
  4. Absence of large trees and shrubs on the site, shading the strawberry beds.

Horticultural culture is not demanding on the composition of the soil, the main thing is that the soil is loose, with a neutral content of acids.

Dates and schemes of planting

It is recommended to plant berry bushes in open ground in late summer or early autumn. Before the first frost, the plant will have time to take root and begin to bear fruit in the summer season. In the spring, seedlings are planted as soon as the air temperature stabilizes at a level not lower than +15 degrees.

In the closed ground of a heated greenhouse, fruit crops are planted all year round.

  1. Beds for planting berry bushes are prepared 2-3 weeks before the start of work. Organic and mineral fertilizers are applied to the soil.
  2. Before planting, strawberry roots are treated with antibacterial drugs.
  3. Holes are dug in a carefully loosened bed. The depth and width of the pits are made based on the size of the roots of the plant.
  4. Leave 20-30 cm between holes, 40 cm between rows.
  5. A mound of earth is poured into the hole, on which the seedling is placed.
  6. The rhizomes are spread evenly in the hole and covered with soil.
  7. After planting, the bushes are thoroughly watered.

Important! In the process of growing bushes, side shoots, tendrils, sprinkle with earth, and at the end of summer they are cut off and planted as separate plants.

Care specifics

To get a large and high-quality crop of ripe berries, Marmelada strawberries require timely and thorough care.

Fertilizing and watering

The main amount of watering falls on the beginning of the vegetative period. Before the beginning of the flowering period, the bushes are watered completely, washing off dust and dirt from the leaf plates. As soon as the plants bloom, watering is transferred exclusively under the rhizome. Watering is carried out no more than 1-2 times a week, and during the ripening period of berries, they are reduced to 1 time in 2 weeks. Irrigation work is carried out with warm, settled water.

Garden strawberry Marmalade does not tolerate high soil moisture. The bushes begin to hurt, and the yield drops.

For better development and fruiting, strawberries need additional nutrition with organic and mineral substances.

  1. In early spring bushes are fed with organic matter and mineral complex.
  2. Urea solution is applied to the soil before the beginning of the flowering phase.
  3. Bushes require nitrogen and calcium during flowering.
  4. Before winter rest, berry bushes are fertilized with mineral supplements.

Also, in spring and autumn, beds with strawberries are fertilized with humus.


Garden strawberry bushes grow quickly. Therefore, excess shoots are cut off as the beds grow.

Also, pruning of unnecessary leaf blades and tendrils is carried out before the onset of winter rest.

Disease Control

Although Marmalade Strawberries are naturally immune to some fungal and viral infections, gardeners and farmers should always be prepared to deal with unexpected diseases.

  1. Gray mold on berry bushes is often carried by weeds. At the first manifestations of a fungal infection, the affected plants are removed from the garden, and the rest are treated with fungicide-based preparations.
  2. If dark spots appear on the leaves of the shrub, the plants are treated with Bordeaux mixture.

To avoid the appearance of fungal and viral infections, it is enough to clearly and timely follow the rules for caring for the fruit crop.

Prevention against pests

It is difficult to protect fruit crops from pests, but it is possible to prevent the attack of intruders by spring preventive spraying of bushes.


Nematodes are resistant to all insecticides. To avoid infection by a pest of a fruit crop, the beds with plants are weeded and loosened in a timely manner. Also, nematodes avoid the neighborhood of calendula, so these unpretentious flowers can be planted between strawberry bushes.


Ticks not only damage fruit crops, but also berry crops. To combat the pest, insecticide-based preparations or tobacco dust are used.


If the strawberry bushes do not bloom, most likely they were attacked by a weevil that feeds on unopened buds.

Insecticides or traditional methods are used for control and prevention.

How to loosen and weed

Not only the health of the fruit crop, but also its yield depends on the presence of weeds and loose soil.

Weeding and loosening of beds is usually carried out together with irrigation.

Loose soil enriches the roots of strawberries with oxygen, and the elimination of weeds contributes to the active growth and development of horticultural crops.


Strawberry transplantation is carried out with a mustache or bush division.

Several shoots, or tendrils, grow from the mother plant, which, in the process of growth, are sprinkled with earth and rooted. At the end of summer, the shoot, along with new roots, is cut off from an adult bush and planted separately.

Adult, 3-4 year old strawberry bushes are dug up and divided into equal parts. The main thing is that a central kidney remains on each root. From one bush, it turns out, from 3 to 4 new plants. New strawberry bushes are planted in separate beds.

Shelter for the winter

Although Marmalade is declared as a frost-resistant fruit crop, but in the absence of a sufficient amount of snow, the bushes will freeze.

Berry beds before winter rest are mulched with a thick layer of humus, sawdust and peat. The second layer is laid out with dry foliage or spruce branches. From above, the beds are covered with burlap or special material.

Reviews about the variety

Svetlana Sergeevna, 44 years old. city ​​of Novorossiysk.

My little daughter advised me to plant Marmalade strawberries because of the name. We decided to try. Already in the first year, the whole family enjoyed fragrant, sweet and most importantly large berries. The daughter said that the strawberry is fully consistent with its name.

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