How to grow a navel orange tree from seed


Where Can I Buy Some Seeds to Grow a Navel Orange Tree?

Excuse Me, Do You Have Any Navel Orange Tree Seeds for Sale?

Just the other day I was asked that question. I’ve often been asked that question, after all, the Navel Orange is the most popular orange in the United States so it is not odd that people want to grow their own. But I always have to answer the same way, “Sorry, but you can’t get seeds to grow a ‘Navel’ Orange tree. It cannot be grown from seed!”

Surprised? I was when I first learned this. You see it is a clone and can only be propagated by cloning or grafting! In Fact, all navel orange trees are all perfect clones of one another and all originate from just one single tree in Brazil.

Read more: Promiscuous Plants and the Pollinators they Tantalize

A Brief History of Navel Oranges

In 1820, a mutation occurred in a group of sweet orange trees growing on the grounds of a monastery in Bahia, Brazil. The mutation created a seedless orange that was much sweeter than the original citrus fruit.

In addition, the new specimen had an underdeveloped twin orange growing within the same skin of each fully developed orange. From the outside, this growth looked like a human belly button, which resulted in the naming of the newly grown citrus variety: navel oranges.

Since navel oranges are seedless, farmers couldn’t simply grow another tree from the seeds to get more of the fruit. The only way to grow more navel oranges is to amputate a blossoming bud from an existing navel orange tree and unite it with another compatible fruit tree’s trunk or root.

This process is called grafting and is only successful if the grafted fruit trees are compatible with one another. Since navel oranges are compatible with grapefruits, lemons, and limes, they can be grafted with any of these.

Read more: Can You Imagine Florida without Oranges?

The Navel Orange Comes to America

Two years after the discovery of the navel orange tree, Brazil sent a dozen navel orange cuttings to the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) in Washington DC. Five years later, a woman named Eliza Tibbets planted one of these at her home in Riverside, California and it started producing fruit.

Mrs. Tibbets’ success growing this fruit spread, and other California orange growers decided to take buds from her tree to grow as well, since the California climate proved perfect for navel oranges. This variety of navel orange became known as the Riverside Orange, but its name was later changed to the Washington Navel Orange and it is now the most popular type of navel orange in the world.

Bonus Facts About Oranges

Here are some bonus facts about oranges that I’ll bet you didn’t know…

1. The color orange was actually named after the orange fruit, not the other way around, as one might expect.

2. Orange is the world’s third favorite flavor (number one and two belong to chocolate and vanilla).

3. A navel orange tree can grow 30 feet tall and live for well over 100 years (the exact number isn’t known yet because the variety is relatively young and, for instance, one of Eliza Tibbets’ original navel orange trees is still growing and producing fruit today).

4. There is an orange tree in Europe called “Constable” that is 500 years old.

5. Orange trees will not bear quality fruit until at least the third growing season.

6. The majority of people peel an orange to get at the juicy fruit on the inside. However, even though the peel of an orange lacks the sweet juiciness of the actual orange, it is edible and nutritious. The peel is primarily eaten in environments with limited resources and that require minimal waste to be generated, like on submarines. The peel is also a source of nutritional value, particularly containing vitamin C and fiber. Word to the wise: if you’re planning to eat the peel of an orange, stick to the organically grown or processed oranges that haven’t been treated with chemical pesticides and herbicides.

7. If you choose not to eat the peel of an orange, there are a variety of other ways to use it including repelling the annoying slug and garden pests, producing orange oil for the purpose of adding flavor to food and drinks and adding fragrance to perfumes and aromatherapy.

8. When choosing an orange of ample ripeness to eat, skin color is not a good indicator. Make sure the orange is heavy for its size and has a good fresh odor and isn’t too squishy, nor too firm.

9. In 1848, thousands of people rushed to California after gold was found. This time is known as the California Gold Rush. The “other” California Gold Rush occurred in 1882 when California was home for over 500,000 growing citrus trees. It was during this time that California helped establish the citrus industry.

10. The sweet orange is the most commonly grown fruit tree in the world and accounts for approximately 70% of the world’s citrus production.

Although you can find navel orange trees for sale at any number of online sites, I would advise caution. As far as growing your own navel orange tree goes, the best thing I have found is to talk to your local nurseryman. Finding a “nursery guy” you can trust and rely on is one of the best things any gardener can do!

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Navel Orange Tree Care: Sweet Orange Fruit

Table of Contents

Navel oranges have become severely underrated as the popularity of mandarins has skyrocketed. Growing a navel orange tree will provide delicious, sweet fruit during the winter when most gardens slow down or go completely dormant. A navel orange tree can be grown as a dwarf or standard tree in the ground or a container making it feasible for just about any gardener to grow. They can be grown as a patio tree in almost any growing zone as long as they can be brought inside during harsh winters. 

Navel oranges are naturally seedless and perfectly sweet. They are incredibly versatile as they can be used in an infinite number of recipes, homemade cleaners, and even for DIY home décor. Navel oranges are also remarkably nutritious and healthy. Oranges are packed with vitamin C, potassium, and fiber which provides several health benefits such as preventing heart disease, cancer, and stroke.

Although navel oranges are easily found in stores, there’s nothing more convenient than growing them in your own yard. The amount of produce that one tree can provide is more than enough to share and may encourage you to get creative and try some new recipes.

Get A Navel Orange Tree

Get A Cara Cara Orange Tree

Good Products At Amazon For Growing Navel Orange Trees:

  • Safer Brand Insect Killing Soap
  • All Seasons Horticultural And Dormant Spray Oil
  • MycoStop Biofungicide
  • Southern Ag Liquid Copper Fungicide

Quick Care Guide

The navel orange tree produces sweet, delicious fruit. Source: niiicedave
Common Name(s)Orange, navel, navel orange, sweet orange
Scientific NameCitrus sinensis
Days to HarvestAnnually in the winter or spring
LightFull sun
WaterModerate
SoilWell-draining sandy loam soil
FertilizerCitrus blend
PestsMites, thrips, scales, aphids, lepidopterans, Asian citrus psyllid
DiseasesPhytophthora root rot, Anthracnose, Botrytis, Huanglongbing (HLB)

All About The Navel Orange Tree

Just after flowering, tiny green fruit begin to form. Source: RBerteig

Sweet oranges are classified under the botanical name Citrus sinensis which is a cross between a pummelo and a mandarin. Sweet oranges include navels, valencias, and blood oranges. 

Navels are different from other types of sweet oranges because they are seedless. A mutation on sweet orange caused a small secondary fruit to form on the flower end of the fruit, creating that “belly button” appearance. This secondary fruit is also the reason why navel oranges are seedless. The original mutation was found in the 1800s in Brazil and eventually brought to the United States as the Washington navel orange. Additional mutations to Washington navel orange have been discovered and developed into new navel varieties.

Citrus sinensis is an evergreen tree that ranges in size from 6-30 feet depending on the variety and rootstock. Trees bloom in the spring, the fruit develops in the summer and fall, and it is ready to harvest in the winter or spring. Navel orange trees have dark green, elliptical, waxy leaves. The blooms are white and fragrant. The fruits are green during development and turn a bright orange color when ripe. The average fruit size is around 3 inches in diameter. Navel oranges are self-fertile, so they do not require pollination.

Although there are several navel varieties, there are a few worth highlighting. Even though the Washington navel orange is an old variety, it is still one of the best varieties to grow today. It’s ready to harvest between November and January. If you have ever eaten navel oranges from the store, they were most likely Washington navel oranges. 

Cara Cara is another variety that is also ready to harvest between November and January. Cara Cara is a result of a mutation on a Washington navel orange tree. It has an excellent flavor, and the flesh is deep pink instead of orange. 

Lane Late is a late-maturing mutated bud sport from a Washington navel orange tree. This variety is very similar to the Washington navel orange but it is ready to harvest between February and June. The fruit stores extremely well on the tree extending the harvesting season for a few months.

Planting

The best time to plant navel orange trees is from April through August. Avoid planting when temperatures are above 100°F. Plant in a sunny location in well-draining soil. If the soil has poor drainage, plant in a raised bed or a large container, like the 10-gallon Air Pot we stock in our store.

Since navel oranges are seedless, they must be planted as a grafted tree. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and fill in with loose soil. When you plant, do not bury the graft union and try to leave at least a few inches of the rootstock above the soil. If planting in a container, navel orange trees will need at least a 15-20 gallon container. Young trees can be planted in a smaller container and later transplanted as the tree grows and matures.

Trees should be purchased from a trusted nursery or garden center that follows local regulations in regards to citrus. Citrus-producing states such as California, Texas, Arizona, and Florida may have movement restrictions on young trees. Check with your local Agricultural Extension Office for more information on restrictions in your area.

Care

Oranges turn from green to yellow before they reach their orange color. Source: slworking2

Navel orange trees are known to grow with minimal effort. Applying all the care tips below will result in high-quality produce and a beautiful tree.

Sun and Temperature

Navel orange trees require full or partial sun meaning it needs at least 8 hours of direct sun each day. Hot summers and mild winters yield the best quality fruit. They are hardy to USDA zones 8-11, so they can tolerate temperatures down to 20°F for a short period and temperatures above 100°F. Temperatures below 26°F may damage the produce. 

Navel orange trees can be grown as containerized patio trees in USDA growing zones 4-11 as long as they can be brought indoors when temperatures drop below freezing. You may also be able to provide some alternative method of keeping the tree warm during the winter if you’re in a cooler growing zone. Trees can be protected from frost by bringing indoors or by covering with frost fabric.

Sunburn is common on excessively hot summer days, especially on tender growth, but the damage is minimal and the trees will eventually grow out of it. Sunburn can be prevented by covering trees with light shade cloth or by covering the tree with a whitewash.

Water and Humidity

Water citrus early in the morning once a week. Soil should be kept moist, but not soggy or saturated. Use soaker hoses or drip irrigation to avoid wetting the trunk of the tree. Trees should be well watered during fruit development. Irrigation frequency and/or amounts should be reduced during the cooler wet months to prevent overwatering.

Trees planted in a pot may need to be watered more often. They should be fully saturated and allowed to dry down until slightly moist before the next watering. Potted trees can be watered using drip irrigation or manually with a hose. If watering manually, avoid wetting the trunk.

Soil

Navel oranges grow best in well-drained, sandy loam soils with a pH between 6.0-7.0. If planting in heavy clay soil, amend with organic matter.

Fertilizing

There are a lot of different citrus tree fertilizers available at garden centers. The rates and application frequency depend on the fertilizer blend and whether it is a slow-release fertilizer. Slow-release blends typically need to be applied once or twice a year. Navel orange fruit trees should be well fed from March-August when trees are most actively growing.

Pruning

Navel oranges can be pruned at any time of the year but the ideal time to prune is in the late winter or early spring before bloom. Navel orange trees are not deciduous so their leaves will remain throughout the entire year. They do not require older growth to produce fruit. Flower buds are very noticeable on trees. Pruning off flower buds will reduce the number of oranges for the season.

Suckers and dead or damaged wood should be removed annually. Suckers are shoots that grow from the rootstock. These shoots will look different from the fruiting variety and should always be removed. These shoots will not produce good fruit. Remove suckers by cutting them flush with the main trunk. When removing deadwood or diseased branches, prune back several inches below the dead or diseased branch to ensure the entire infection or dead portion is removed. Old or damaged fruit should also be manually removed. While it should fall off naturally, removing old fruit will prevent diseases. It also preserves resources for shoot development and flowering.

Trees can be trained and pruned as a hedge, espalier, or standard tree. Standard trees should be pruned to keep the center open to optimize sunlight and airflow throughout the canopy. Trees can reach a mature height of up to 30 feet. Pruning is an excellent way to maintain the desired shape and height of your navel orange tree.

Propagation

Before propagating citrus, check for local restrictions on citrus propagation. In some areas like California, Arizona, Texas, and Florida, it is illegal to propagate citrus material that does not derive from a clean stock program. 

Grafting is the most reliable way to grow a strong disease-resistant navel orange tree. Navel oranges are commonly grafted onto C-35, Carrizo, or Trifoliate rootstock. Rootstocks are grown from seed but can be bought as liners. Once the rootstock is thick enough, it can be grafted with the desired variety. Chip budding is the most common method used for grafting.

Harvesting and Storing

A Cara Cara navel orange, peeled and ready to eat. Source: Forest & Kim

Harvesting navels is super easy and can be done as needed. Navels store extremely well on the tree but there are also some great options for storage post-harvest.

Harvesting

Navels are typically ready to harvest in the late winter or early spring. The cold temperatures during the winter trigger the color change from green to orange. The best way to test for readiness is by tasting the fruit. After harvest, navels will not sweeten so it’s important to pick the fruit when it has developed enough sugars.

Do not pull navel oranges off the tree. Pulling the fruit can cause damage to the limbs of the tree. The best way to harvest is to twist up at an angle or cut the fruit off the tree with clippers. Harvesting does not need to occur all at once. Navels can remain on the tree for an extended period before quality declines. Oranges should be washed before storing to prevent any contamination.

Storing

Navel oranges will store for up to a week at room temperature and up to 4 weeks in the refrigerator.

Freezing is an easy and excellent option for long-term storage. There are a few different ways to freeze depending on what part of the orange you plan to use. Juice can be frozen and stored for 3-4 months. Orange zest can be stored for up to 1 year. When storing the fleshy part of the fruit, remove the peel, segment it into slices, and store it in a freezer bag or container for up to 1 year.

Navel oranges can also be canned, used to make marmalade, or dehydrated, extending the storage life to up to 1 year.

Troubleshooting

The “navel” of a navel orange is its belly button like flower end. Source: outdoorPDK

Navel orange trees rarely have growing problems once they are fully grown and established. Below are some common issues that you may encounter as your tree grows and matures.

Growing Problems

Excessive stress from heat or lack of water may cause flowers to abort or early fruit drop. Although some fruit drop is normal, too much indicates stress. Differences in weather such as heavy rain or a warm winter will cause variations in fruit quality. Some years will yield better fruit than others due to natural temperature and rain fluctuations.

Micronutrient deficiencies, especially zinc and iron, are common with navel orange trees. The most common sign of deficiency is yellowing between the leaf veins. If trees are showing signs of micronutrient deficiency, check the fertilizer used to make sure it includes all the essential micronutrients. If it does, check the soil pH before applying more fertilizer. High soil pH can inhibit some micronutrient availability. Acidifying fertilizers can be used to lower pH to an optimal level.

Pests

Mites are small arachnids that feed on the leaves of orange trees. There are several species of mites that feed on citrus. The most common mites cause stippling damage on the leaves. Heavy infestations will cause leaf drop. Mites tend to attack weak or stressed trees. Keeping a healthy navel orange tree is the first line of defense against mites. If mite populations get out of control, use horticultural oils and insecticidal soaps to knock down heavy infestations.

Citrus thrips are small yellow to orange insects that feed on flower blooms and young tender leaves. Feeding damage causes curling and scarring on the leaves and scarring on young fruit. Citrus thrips feed on tender new foliage, so damage does not significantly impact mature plants. Feeding damage can stunt the growth rate on young trees with an abundance of tender new flushes. Thrips are very difficult to control by spraying, so it is not recommended. On younger trees, a good option is to protect the tree with insect screens until the new leaves are no longer tender and attractive to thrips.

Soft and armored scales can be found on the twigs and branches of trees. Damage usually does not come directly from the scale. Scales excrete excessive amounts of honeydew which leads to sooty mold. Sooty mold covers the leaves which inhibits photosynthesis and leads to leaf drop. Scales are usually controlled by natural predators and parasites. If treatment is necessary, weekly oil sprays are effective.

Aphids are small soft-bodied insects that feed on the sap of tender plant tissue. They can cause some deformation in leaves. These also produce honeydew which can lead to problems like sooty mold. Aphids are usually controlled by natural predators; however, populations can still become off-balance and damaging. Control by manually removing leaves with heavy infestations and by hosing them off the rest of the foliage with water. Horticultural oils and insecticidal soaps are also effective.

Lepidopteran pests include several types of moth larvae that cause damage to the leaves. There are a few leaf roller species that cause damage to the tender growing tips. Citrus leaf miner is also a lepidopteran pest that mines tunnels on the undersides of leaves. Lepidopteran pest damage is mostly cosmetic but can stunt growth in young trees. Treatment should not be necessary on mature trees, and larvae can be manually removed on young trees. Pheromone traps can be placed on trees to disrupt mating, effectively reducing the population.

Asian citrus psyllid is a small mottled brown insect around the same size as an aphid. Psyllids inject a toxin during feeding which may cause a burn back on tender new growth. However, feeding damage is not the main concern. They are considered a major pest because it vectors a devastating disease called Huanglongbing (HLB) or citrus greening disease. Depending on your area, the presence of Asian citrus psyllid will warrant different responses. Research the local regulations and reach out to your county office if there are any questions.

Diseases

Phytophthora root rot is one of the most common root diseases in citrus trees. The most common symptoms are a general decline in health and the leaves will turn yellow or pale green. Advanced stages will present “gumming” or sap oozing from the trunk of the tree. Trunks may also exhibit a water-soaked appearance.  Phytophthora is prevented by using best irrigation practices and planting in well-draining soil. Most rootstocks have some form of resistance or tolerance to the disease. Still, it is extremely important to leave at least a few inches of the rootstock above the soil line. Most fruiting varieties are very susceptible to phytophthora, so leaving the graft close to the soil increases the risk of infection. There are beneficial microbes and mycorrhizae products that can be applied to boost plant health and immunity to diseases like phytophthora. However, good watering practices will be enough for prevention.

Anthracnose and Botrytis are both foliar diseases that thrive in wet conditions. Symptoms of these two diseases are twig dieback, leaf drop, and fruit decay. Anthracnose is identified by the dark spores on the leaves and twigs while botrytis spores are a lighter gray color. Both diseases can be managed with good cultural practices. Prune trees to allow adequate airflow to avoid excessive moisture that favors spore development. Removing dead or damaged branches and old fruit will prevent the disease from infecting the following season. Infection is usually mild, so fungicide treatments are rarely needed.

Huanglongbing (HLB) is also referred to as the citrus greening disease. This incurable disease is devastating to the navel orange tree. Citrus with this disease may have yellow mottled leaves, sudden death in young trees, small or deformed fruit, and discolored or green fruit. This disease is spread by the Asian citrus psyllid. Controlling the insect prevents the disease. It can also be transferred when grafting with infected plant material. Once a navel orange tree is infected, it needs to be removed. Ensure that any new trees planted come from reliable nursery sources that are following state regulations. For example, citrus trees grown in California should have a CDFA label that shows they have come from clean nursery stock.

Frequently Asked Questions

Washington navel oranges produce heavy crops. Source: 305 Seahill

Q: How long does it take a navel orange tree to produce fruit?

A: Navel orange trees take about 4 years to produce a substantial amount of fruit. They will yield small amounts of fruit as early as 2 years.

Q: How big does a navel orange tree get?

A: Tree size depends on the variety and rootstock combination. A dwarf tree will grow between 6-8 feet tall, a semi-dwarf tree will grow between 10-15 feet tall, and a standard tree can grow up to 30 feet tall.

Q: Are navel orange trees self-pollinating?

A: Yes, navel orange trees are self-pollinating.

All about flowers. How to grow an orange from a stone

07 03 2012 admin There are no comments yet

Fans of growing citrus fruits in a room doom themselves to many years of waiting and constant troubles, but are generously rewarded with the beauty and fragrance of exotic trees. This is especially true for those who are trying to get homemade oranges from the stone. However, flower growers do not stop and experiment with the whole range of citrus fruits available to us. Grow a lemon? Please! Bone tangerine? Great idea!

Orange seeds do not like open air, dry out quickly and reduce germination rates. Therefore, it is recommended to wash the stone extracted from the orange, dry it a little (no more than an hour) and plant it in the ground.

Young orange trees suffer a lot during transplanting and to avoid this it is recommended to plant them immediately in a large 2 liter pot.

Oranges grown from the seed will bloom and bear fruit only after a few years, and the usual taste of the fruit should not be expected. You can get normal fruits only on a grafted tree. Nevertheless, a wild tree will smell and emit phytoncides no worse than a grafted one.

Orange species

Ribbed orange is the most common variety. Its difference is a convex part similar to the navel at the base of the fetus. When peeling, it is easy to notice that it is formed by a small "inner" fruit, fused with a large orange.

Valenmisky is a very sweet and fragrant variety that is characterized by the summer "greening" of oranges due to the appearance of excess chlorophyll in the peel of the fruit (it is produced) under the influence of heat. This does not affect the taste of the oranges themselves.

Conditions for keeping a stone orange tree at home

Lighting . The home orange needs bright diffused light during the summer. With prolonged exposure to direct sunlight, foliage burns can occur.

Temperature rating . Orange is very thermophilic, it will feel great on a sunny loggia in summer. In winter, it needs rest, the temperature is 12-15°C.

Watering . Like any tropical plant, an orange grown from a stone “likes” high humidity. He needs frequent spraying in summer and remoteness from the heating battery in winter.

Fertilizer . Apply any complex fertilizer at least once a month.

Earth mix . Orange will be happy with the special earth for citrus fruits sold in flower shops, but will be able to be content with a universal earth mixture.

Transplant . Young plants do not like frequent disturbance, so it is better not to disturb the orange during the first two years. Older specimens are transplanted once every two to three years.

Formation . The crown of an orange tree is formed by pinching young shoots as they develop.

Inoculation . An orange grown from a stone is grafted in order to obtain fruits. In nurseries, you can buy an already grafted orange tree.

Possible problems when growing an orange from the stone

Orange grown from seed has drying leaves . The likely cause is not enough moisture in the air. It makes sense to install the pot in a tray with wet moss or expanded clay.

Leaves fall in winter . Natural process, in the spring they will recover.

Irina Surdu specially for the site All about flowers

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Home orange - how to plant and care

House orange

Table of contents

House orange: planting and care tips, varieties

Orange is a citrus fruit tree that was first cultivated in China. Fragrant sweet and sour citrus fruit, orange, is rich in vitamins and other useful substances that help in the treatment of hypovitaminosis, liver, heart and vascular diseases. The bright green citrus leaves are high in fiber and antioxidants.

Planting at home

Since the beginning of cultivation, the citrus plant has become popular far beyond Southeast Asia. In Europe, for orange plantations, they began to create special structures made of glass - greenhouses with a microclimate similar to subtropical.

At home, gardeners grow oranges not only for tasty and healthy fruits. The appearance of the plant with its juicy green leaves is able to decorate and bring a touch of exoticism to any room in the house.

It is not necessary to buy a mature orange tree, you can grow it yourself from the seed of the eaten fruit.

Planting rules

  1. Before planting, the seed is washed, soaked in water for 12 hours, then planted in a pot with earth to a depth of 1 cm.
  2. In order for the sprout to appear faster, the soil with the stone is watered, the vessel is covered with polyethylene.
  3. Before the sprout appears, the pot with the stone is placed in a warm, shady place, from time to time airing and moistening the ground.

The best time for planting orange seeds, as well as other heat-loving plants, is considered to be the end of winter or the beginning of spring. Sometimes planting is done at another time of the year, making up for the lack of sunlight with the help of special lamps.

In the natural environment, an orange tree lives 100 - 150 years, in some cases its crown reaches the size of an oak crown. For a year, an adult plant can produce up to 600 fruits.

Home orange with fruits

How to care for home orange

Orange tree is an easy-to-care crop that needs to be maintained in conditions similar to its natural habitat for proper growth and development. When leaving, special attention is paid to the temperature regime, lighting in the room and soil moisture at the roots. Spraying and top dressing play an important role in the care of an orange.

Temperature . A comfortable temperature for citrus cultivation is 16 ℃ in winter and 20-22 ℃ in summer. Subject to the temperature regime, the tree grows moderately and gives a good harvest.

Lighting . The orange tree does not tolerate direct sunlight, while its leaves turn yellow and fall off. A well-lit place in the apartment helps the fruits to gain the necessary sugar and vitamins. In winter, the lack of a sunny day is filled with light from a special lamp.

Watering . A tropical plant loves moisture. The soil under the orange should always remain loose and moist. In summer, citrus is watered daily, in winter no more than once every 5 to 10 days. Moisten the soil with settled water, temperature 20 - 25 degrees.

Spraying . The most suitable air humidity for citrus growth is 90%. In the summer heat, spraying with water 3-5 times a day helps to maintain the tone of the plant. In winter, the procedure is carried out 2-3 times a week. It is recommended to place a vessel with water next to the orange pot.

Top dressing is not a prerequisite for the development of rhizomes. Fertilize the soil under the plant no more than three times a year. Fertilizers for domesticated crops should be chosen with a natural composition.

Varieties of orange suitable for growing at home

There are currently more than 600 varieties of orange in the world. Some of these species are distinguished by pink or bright red fruit pulp.

Varieties of domestic orange differ from agricultural varieties in their short stature and small fruit size.

The most common house orange varieties
Title Description Features
Washington Nevil A fairly large orange tree with a spreading crown, which is planted in plantations or at home. A plant with white inflorescences. Ripe red-orange fruits are round in shape, with a "navel" at the bottom.
Pavlovsky One of the best varieties of homemade orange, which is well adapted to apartment conditions and has a beautiful decorative appearance. Plant height reaches 1 meter. Yields 9 months of the year with round, bright orange fruits.
Navelina A disease resistant variety with high yield and early maturation.

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