How to grow nuts tree

Grow Your Own: Nuts - Maine Organic Farmers and Gardeners

By Roberta Bailey

The wild nut forests of North America are gone, having succumbed to weather, blight, and the heavy harvesting of their valuable lumber. No longer can families go into the woods and gather burlap sacks full of nuts for winter keeping. Yet many nut trees are hardy in the northeast, and a few nut trees can produce bushels of nuts. Chestnuts, filberts, filazels, hazelnuts, tree hazels, ginkgo, hickory, nut pines, heartnuts, buartnuts, butternuts, black walnuts, and many oaks, including the edible, acorn-producing burr oak, can be grown in the Northeast.

Space is a consideration with nut trees. With the exception of filberts, hazelnuts, and their various relatives (which reach 7 to 15 feet), nut trees will mature to 50 feet tall and close to that in width, more than most suburban lots can accommodate. Another consideration is that butternuts and black walnuts emit a toxic substance (juglone) that prevents many plants from growing underneath them. Conifers are particularly sensitive, but grass and blackberries are not. A large yard or a few acres can accommodate nut trees. Most nut trees need a pollinator. Single black walnuts, butternuts, and shagbark hickories can produce nuts, but will yield more if a second tree of the same species is planted within 100 feet. The flowers are pollinated by wind.

Less breeding has been done with nuts than with other fruits, but excellent cultivars are available. Nuts can also be planted from seed. Intentional crosses of choice trees have produced cultivars with especially large or flavorful nuts, or high yields, or nuts that crack more easily, or, in the case of American chestnuts, potentially more blight-resistant cultivars. In Maine, where hardiness is a consideration, one might opt to plant seed from a hardy Northern tree instead of purchasing an improved nut cultivar that may not be as cold hardy. On the other hand, if the species you want to plant is reliably hardy in your area, you may want to go for the selected cultivar. Cultivars tend to bear a few years earlier than seedling trees, which may take 8 to 10 years to bear. If you are planting all cultivars, rather than seedlings, chose different cultivars of the same species to pollinate each other. Two of the same named cultivar will not pollinate each other, because they came from the same tree, essentially. Each seedling tree is genetically different, so two walnut seedlings could pollinate each other.

To start a nut tree from seed, gather sound nuts from a tree with favorable traits. The nuts can be planted directly into a garden or nursery row and covered with a few inches of soil. To protect against squirrels, the seed should be covered with hardware cloth or metal screening, which must be removed before nuts sprout in spring. Nuts can also be overwintered in a plastic bag with moist leaf mold, sphagnum moss or potting mix. They need to stay moist. Plan them out as soon as the ground can be worked. Nuts will sprout over the next few months. If sprouting has occurred before transplanting, be extremely careful not to break the delicate tap root.

Planting a nut tree is similar to planting most fruit trees, except that they need plenty of space, away from driveways, sidewalks, roads and overhead wires. Nut trees grow best in deep, well-drained soil on a sunny site with some wind protection. Dig a hole large enough to set the tree to the level at which it grew in the nursery and a few feet wider than the tree roots they are spread out. Place the best soil in the bottom, around the roots, mixing in a small amount of compost if the soil is poor, and gently tamping to eliminate air pockets. Continue to fill the hole, ending by making a slight rim of soil around the hole to hold water. Water your tree thoroughly at planting and provide at least 1 inch a week for the first year when rain doesn’t do the job. Trace minerals, such as azomite, menafee humates or compost, can be spread around the surface of the planting area, then covered with a thick organic mulch.

Once established, nuts need little care. Spread a thick layer of compost out to the drip line each spring. Prune the trees to one central leader and, eventually, to have no branches for the first 8 feet. Diseases and insects seldom infest backyard nut plantings.

Harvesting and Curing

The years of watching your trees reach skyward will fly by, and a year will come when you notice nuts, actual nuts on your trees. Once fall comes, you can wait for them to drop and readily gather the nuts before they deteriorate quickly on the ground. If squirrels are a problem, shake the trees and gather the nuts. This process may take a few harvests.

Nuts need to be dried or cured before their meats ripen enough to eat. Spread them out one layer thick on screens or in the barn, attic, garage or greenhouse. You will need to protect against squirrels. Turn the nuts so that they dry on all sides. Depending on the nut, curing takes two to four weeks.

Species to Grow

Black walnuts, Juglans nigra, generally are hardy to zone 4, with some strains hardy in zone 3. They have a distinct, nutty flavor. The seedlings have very hard shells and thin nutmeats, but some hardiness is lost in softer shelled, meatier cultivars. The trees produce excellent wood, and the nut hulls make a rich brown dye.

Butternuts, Juglans cinerea, are quite hardy into zone 3, and their oily nuts are absolutely delicious. Cultivars have larger nuts with softer shells. Lewis Hill says wild butternuts shell easily if you pour boiling water over them and allow them to sit for 15 minutes, then drain and dry them. One easy hammer blow will pop the halves apart intact. Trees tend to bear heavily, then take a year to three off.

Buartnuts are a cross between the Japanese heartnut and the butternut, combining the butternut’s hardiness with the heartnut’s easy shelling, larger nutmeats and disease resistance.

Hazelnuts (Corylus americana) and filazels, which are filbert-hazelnut crosses with larger nuts than hazelnuts, are hardy in zone 4. They both bear sweet, round, filbert-type nuts. Filazels reach 10 to 12 feet and turn gold to orange and red in fall.

Although hickories are supposed to be hardy only to zone 5, I know of two shagbark hickories (Carya ovata) growing in central Maine. If you can plant seed from Northern trees, your chances of eating homegrown hickory nuts are fairly high. These large, moisture-loving trees produce a gumball-size nut within a thick husk.

Not sure what to do with those back acres? Consider planting a few nut trees, or a stand of trees that will mature into a valuable stand of lumber for a future generation – giving nuts in the meantime.


Nut Growing Ontario Style, a publication of the Society of Ontario Nut Growers, 1993. 172pp. Available from Fedco, PO Box 520, Waterville ME 04903-0520 (order deadline April 13, 2001).

Fruits and Berries for the Home Gardener, Lewis Hill. Storey Books, 1992. 266pp.

Six nuts you can grow at home

Good things do come in small packages - like nuts! These bite-sized nibbles are available in a variety of rich flavours, each with their own unique taste and texture and packed full of healthy goodness.

While certain trees, like walnuts and pecans, will need a considerable amount of space, almonds, macadamias and pistachios will happily grow in an average-sized garden. Have a crack and go nuts!

1. Pistachios 

These beautiful green, purple and pink nuts may be small, but pistachios (Pistacia vera) are packed with flavour and loads of nutritional goodness. They grow on a small shrubby tree, approximately 5m high and wide, and are ideal for suburban gardens.

However, they're dioecious, which means male and female flowers grow on separate trees, so you will need to plant two trees if you want to produce nuts.

TO GROW: Pistachios grow best in areas with long, dry, hot summers and cold winters. The trees are quite hardy and will happily tolerate poor soils, provided they are planted deep enough to accommodate their lengthy taproot. Plant male and female trees close together to help promote pollination.

TO HARVEST: If looked after, pistachio trees can produce nuts after four to five years. Harvest in autumn, when hulls begin to split. Remove hulls as soon as possible and dry nuts (still in their shells) in the sun or oven.

2. Macadamias

The luxurious, velvety texture and taste of macadamias make them one of the most-loved nuts in the world. An Australian native, macadamias (Macadamia sp.) are one of the few bush foods sold on a commercial level - and it's great to have a go at growing your own.

Macadamia trees can grow up to 20m in the wild, but will grow between 8-10m tall in most gardens. You can grow them from seed, but they can take years to fruit and can be extremely variable, so it's best to buy grafted trees of known varieties like 'A286' or 'A4'.

TO GROW: Macadamia trees thrive in tropical and subtropical climates, but they will also grow well in frost-free, warm-temperate areas. However, there are certain varieties that will tolerate cooler climates and light frosts. Plant young trees in full sun and protect from strong winds. Ensure the soil is moist, well drained and enriched with organic matter prior to planting. In spring and summer, feed with a complete fertiliser and water in well. Trees will also benefit from a fortnightly liquid feed during the growing season.

TO HARVEST: Seedling trees can take up to seven years to fruit, but grafted trees will fruit in as little as three to four years. The nuts mature during late autumn and winter, and will fall to the ground when ripe. Pick nuts and remove husks as soon as possible, then air dry in the shade for at least two weeks.

3. Almonds

Whole, blanched, slivered, flaked and ground, almonds (Prunus dulcis) are one of the most useful nuts for adding texture and taste to your meals. The nuts grow on gorgeous compact trees, only 3m tall and wide, making them ideal for the average home garden. They provide colour in the form of delicate pink or white blooms from mid-winter, giving shade in summer, and produce nuts after three years. You will need two varieties for pollination but for suburban gardens look for self-fertile varieties like All-in-One or Dwarf Almond.

TO GROW: Almonds grow best in temperate or warm temperate climates. They can grow in cold areas, provided the site is protected from cold wind. Plant in full sun and in moist, well-drained soil. Water well, especially during summer, ensuring the soil is moist, but not waterlogged. Feed trees in autumn and late winter.

TO HARVEST: Nuts will be ready for harvest after three years, however, after eight years, the tree should be bearing a significant crop. Harvest nuts when the outer coating splits and the fruit drops. Collect as they fall and sun dry for a few days.

4. Pecans

It's hard not to fall in love with the unique rich, buttery taste of pecans - just one bite will leave you craving for more! However, you will need a large garden to grow them, as pecan trees (Carya illinoinensis) can reach up to 30m tall. These trees can produce nuts for more than 100 years, so they are well worth the investment if you have the space.

Like macadamias, nuts grown from seed are not true to type, so it's best to buy a known or preferred variety that's grafted onto seedling rootstock.

TO GROW: Pecans grow best in areas where summers are long and hot and winters are cold. If growing in warmer zones, a cool, elevated site is best. Grow in part shade or full sun and plant in deep, moist and well-drained soil. Most cultivars are self-pollinating, but planting two different cultivars will ensure optimum cross-pollination and nut development. Water well in late spring and early summer when the tree is setting nuts.

TO HARVEST: This slow-growing tree can take between 10-12 years to fruit. Nuts mature in autumn and winter; pick when they start to fall, then air dry.

5. Peanuts

They might be referred to as nuts, but peanuts (Arachis hypogaea) are actually highly nutritious legumes. They form on a small bushy shrub that grows only 30cm tall and 20cm wide, making them the perfect size for growing between other plants in the vegie bed. But where and how the nuts form is most unusual - they are not simply picked off the branches. Instead, the flowering stems elongate and bury themselves in the soil, and that's where the nuts develop.

TO GROW: In warm climates, seeds can be sown from early spring, but in cooler climates it's best to sow in late spring once the soil is warm. In a warm, sunny position, plant fresh nuts with their papery covering intact. Ensure the soil is moist and well drained.

TO HARVEST: Once the leaves on the plant turn yellow, the nuts are ready to harvest. This can take anywhere between 17-20 weeks, depending on the cultivar. Use a fork to carefully lift the entire plant with nuts, discard the taproot and hang to dry. Leave to dry for several days and discard any nuts that show symptoms of fungus or mould.

6. Walnuts

You have to love their odd wrinkled shape, but as well as their unique look, walnuts (Juglans sp.) are sweet, have great texture and make a fab addition to cooking and baking - hello brownies! They can grow up to 25m tall, but they're highly ornamental and are beautiful specimen trees. Walnut trees are partially self-fertile, so one tree will eventually bear fruit, but the chances will be improved if you plant two. If you have the space, walnut trees are well worth growing.

TO GROW: Walnuts grow best in climates with long, hot, dry summers and cool winters. Plant in an open sunny site, in deep and well-drained soil enriched with organic matter, and protect young trees from strong winds.

TO HARVEST: Nuts will be ready for harvest after four years and can be picked from mid-April. Remove the hull as soon as possible, then sun dry on racks for several days.

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"RG" tips: How to grow a walnut in the suburbs

That was a year ago. No, of course, I knew that a walnut tree planted by my mother grows in our garden in the north of Moscow. But she treated this as a parental whim: when her parents lived in Alma-Ata, they grew grapes and nuts, and, having moved to Russia, everyone tried to grow something thermophilic in our area. But it turned out that my skepticism was in vain: walnuts and other originally southern nuts grow well and bear fruit in the middle lane. True, you need to know some secrets.

From a nut

Our first harvest last year was almost entirely sold for gifts: all my friends, colleagues, neighbors immediately wanted to grow a walnut.

I also planted a few more nuts. Experts advised to plant in the spring and be sure to stratify for 2-3 months before planting (keep in wet and cold conditions in the refrigerator). My refrigerator is always full, and I didn’t want to mess around. Why is the autumn earth not a refrigerator?! Therefore, at my own peril and risk, I decided to neglect the recommendations, in October I dug holes in the garden, put two or three nuts on a barrel and, having covered it with earth, mulched sawdust on top. So that the earth does not freeze longer.

One of my friends planted the donated nuts according to the rules: in spring and after stratification. From May to mid-June, we regularly called him back: "Well, how did you get up?" They didn't come up. Frustration grew. And then I somehow didn’t come to the dacha for three weeks, and when I arrived, I saw lush 30-centimeter walnut bushes. Everyone went up. A friend, by the way, also, but a little later. So we didn’t see much point in fussing with stratification. The result is almost the same.

At the same time, an important question: where to get planting material? Mom bought the original seedling in the usual market from a seller who swore that he had brought a zoned walnut from Michurinsk. Well, I'm just lucky I didn't cheat. In the Timiryazev Academy, as I was told, there is also a mother tree - nuts are planted from it, and those seedlings that survive the winter are sold. It is better not to mess with southern nuts: the experiment will be several years long, and the chance that the tender tree will not freeze out is small.

Walnut - not from Greece

I went to the Internet to look for "northern" planting material. And thanks to him, I met enthusiastic nut growers: Alexei Gorbunov and his friends have been successfully growing seedlings of walnuts and other nuts on the border of the Moscow region and the Tula region for several years.

"We have the most famous walnut," says Aleksey Gorbunov. "Everyone knows that it is a southern plant, it grows well in Central Asia, the Caucasus, the Krasnodar Territory. Nevertheless, there are walnut relatives from the same family that can withstand frost up to -50 degrees, and -44 - quite calm. But what's the catch? The more frost-resistant the nut, the thicker the shell, and the core is small. Conversely, thin-skinned nuts tolerate frost worse. Here, for example, the Manchurian walnut. Frost-resistant, tasty, but the kernel is small, you are tormented to pick it out. Black walnut is a very beautiful tree, besides it is considered the most powerful in terms of medicinal properties. Gray walnut is often planted in Moscow, it releases phytoncides, perfectly cleans the air. "

And now about what few people know so far: there is an excellent variety of walnut "Ideal", adapted to our completely non-southern conditions. Its wild predecessor was discovered during an expedition on the border of China and Kazakhstan in the foothills of the Tien Shan in the 60s. The trees were unusually compact - up to 5 meters. Nuts are thin-skinned, tasty. Scientists have sown them already in our conditions and for many years selected the most frost-resistant seedlings with the most delicious nuts. What happened in the end is called "Ideal".

"Ideal has three excellent qualities," explains Aleksey Gorbunov. "Wood withstands up to -36. Buds up to -32. Even if the tree freezes, in the spring it gives "whips" - powerful shoots and quickly recovers. The second quality is precocity. "Nuts can give as early as 2-3 years after planting. The third plus is short stature: it is easy to grow, easy to harvest. At the same time, our short summer is enough for the nuts to ripen. Our seedlings successfully bear fruit in Vyazma, Moscow region, near St. Petersburg."

Grey, black, heart-shaped

Just as good as walnut, although much less common, heart-shaped. He has smaller nuts, but there are no partitions inside. Therefore, the nucleolus is quite large, in the shape of a heart. “It has a plus over walnut: it can sometimes be bitter, but heart-shaped bitterness has no bitterness at all,” says Alexei Gorbunov.

Heart-shaped walnut comes from Japan. Now it is already being cultivated with might and main in Canada. It is better than walnut, tolerates waterlogging. And his winter hardiness is quite suitable for our conditions. There are other promising varieties: large-fruited black, large-fruited gray. Kariya is also a type of pecan. These nuts taste like southern pecans, although they are smaller in size. But on the other hand, the trees grow well, and the nuts ripen in our conditions.

How to plant and take care of

  1. The location for the nut should be chosen as sunny as possible: the longer the day without shade, the better. But the seedling must be protected from strong winds. The size of an adult tree ("Ideal") is 4 by 4 meters. The heart-shaped nut is higher, up to 8 meters. Based on this, he should be given a platform.
  2. "Ideal" is tolerant of the lack of moisture. He doesn't like waterlogging. For example, in this wet summer, a lot of ovary crumbled. Therefore, we plant where groundwater is low, and water moderately - in case of drought, there will also be no harvest or the nuts are crushed. From the second half of July - August, watering should be completely stopped: this way the wood will ripen better and suffer less from frost.
  3. Walnut soils are alkaline. These are rare in the middle lane, we mostly have acidic soils. Therefore, when planting in the soil, you need to add ash, dolomite flour, fluff lime. This is very important: with the "correct" composition of the soil, the nut absorbs nutrients better and does not get sick. On acidic soils, nuts also grow, but they winter worse, suffer more from frost. Aleksey Gorbunov believes that the best way to maintain the desired composition of the soil is to add it when planting in a hole and mulch on top with lime gravel, the smallest fraction, the so-called screening. It slowly decomposes, maintaining the desired acid-base balance of the soil in a constant mode, which is very convenient.
  4. It is important not to overdo it with fertilizers. Nitrogen, if the tree grows well, the foliage is bright green, is not needed at all. In extreme cases, nitrogen can be fed in early summer. But potassium-phosphorus can and should be given - they help the wood to mature, facilitate wintering.
  5. The first year the seedling grows freely. In the second half of summer, we pinch the top of the head: this way the wood will have time to ripen before the onset of cold weather. If next year the tree begins to branch, we choose the central strong shoot, pinching the rest from early summer, but not cutting them off completely. So let's form a crown.
  6. But, in principle, the walnut does not need much pruning, it forms the crown itself well. Help is needed if some shoots freeze and, recovering, the nut begins to bush. Then you have to form a crown, leaving one trunk.
  7. Walnut is a self-fertile plant. He doesn't need a pollinator. Still, it is better to plant at least two identical nuts: male and female earrings are located on the same tree, but bloom a little at different times. If there are several trees, the probability of pollination increases. There is the concept of "fertility of pollen" - the ability to fertilize. It is better when other genetic material is introduced, this has a positive effect on the number of ovaries.

How to grow a walnut from a nut?. Preparing nuts. Sowing. Transplanting seedlings in open ground. Photo - Botanichka

I think everyone knows about the taste and benefits of walnut fruits. Surely, many, taking tasty kernels out of the shell, wondered: “Shouldn’t I grow it on the site, moreover, from the nuts themselves, because in fact these are the same seeds as other plants?” There are many horticultural myths and legends around the cultivation of walnuts. Half of them turn out to be false. Therefore, plant and check with your own experience. We will talk about the features of growing a walnut from a nut in this article.

How to grow a walnut from a nut

In autumn or spring - when is the best time to sow a walnut?

There are, by and large, two options: sow in the fall or sow in the spring. Autumn sowing, it is very simple - you take nuts, bury them on the site and wait until spring, when they sprout, or maybe not sprout. Much depends on the region and its climatic features. In southern regions with mild winters, perhaps this option is quite acceptable.

And in the north, where winters are long, frosty and also with little snow, autumn sowing is not an impossible thing, but a risky one. Long lying in the ground may not do them any good, and there will certainly be those who want to sharpen their teeth about them. So, although autumn sowing is simple, it is still better to do everything in a controlled and guaranteed success, which means sowing in the spring. And we'll talk about this in more detail.

Read about the cultivation of the Manchurian walnut (a close relative of the walnut) in the article Manchurian walnut at their summer cottage.

Artificial stratification is a mandatory stage of spring sowing

In order for the nuts to sprout in spring, they must undergo a long stratification - treatment with cold and humidity for about 100 days.

Read more about stratification in article 6 of the rules for stratifying seeds at home.

For this, we take a container, a bucket, a pan, a basin, a container, a flower pot will do, depending on the number of nuts that you want to lay for stratification. At the bottom of the tank we pour a layer of wet sand, not very wet and not completely dry, from the street. This layer is about 5 cm thick (not essential). Put nuts on top of it.

We lay with a distance so that the gap between adjacent ones is at least 1 cm, and again we fill it with sand. On top, you can lay out a second layer of nuts and again cover with sand. You can make a multilayer "pie" of nuts and sand, but the bottom and top layers should be just wet sand.

We place this container for 100 days in the cold. The temperature should be within + 3 ... + 7 degrees (basement, refrigerator, unheated garage, etc.) At this temperature, the sand will remain wet for a long time, but if necessary, sometimes it can be slightly moistened.

Now let's calculate the best time to start this process. You can, of course, from the fall, but then you will have additional troubles with shoots that appear too early, you will have to keep them at home and equip them with additional lighting.

It is optimal to start everything right after the Old New Year has been celebrated. For example, we woke up on January 15 in the morning and start. 100 days will expire by April 25, and there is already a lot of heat and light outside. Of course, these dates can be shifted, depending on the region and your desire.

Stratification of walnuts. © Igor Bilevich

How to sow a nut in the ground?

After 100 days, we take out the nuts from the sand and, in fact, we sow them either in a special school or immediately in a permanent place. Seeding, in the case of the walnut, is placing the nut in a hole. To what depth? The general rule works here: the depth should be equal to three diameters of the nut itself. In practice, this is 7-10 cm. Moreover, it is desirable to put the nut in this hole correctly so that the resulting sprout does not waste extra time and effort on getting out of an uncomfortable position.

As practice shows, laying the nut is not tip up or tip down, but on its side, (tip to the side), so that the seam is on the top and bottom. After about a couple of weeks, shoots will appear from the already warm earth.

When planting, put the nut into the ground so that the seam is on the top and bottom. © Igor Bilevich

Features of sowing thin-skinned nuts

There is one nuance here that can nullify all your efforts. You must have heard that there are thick-skinned nuts - “greedy”, and there are thin-skinned ones. This concept is not entirely accurate, but nonetheless. If the nut breaks easily when squeezed with fingers, then it is considered thin-skinned. Such nuts may not reach the prescribed 100 days before the heat and simply rot. They can be dealt with differently.

Approximately on the border of March and April, such nuts are placed in a glass, enamelled, plastic or stainless steel container and filled with water for 5-7 days. Water, most importantly, should not be taken from chlorinated tap water, but natural, from a river, lake, rain or melt. Change the water once a day and do it all at room temperature.

Such soaking allows breaking the integrity of the shell (water gets to the core) and partially removing substances contained in the nut that block germination. After this procedure, the stratification process takes less time. Soaked nuts, too, are laid in wet sand, but only for 20 days, and kept at room temperature about +20 degrees. Sprouts appear directly from the sand. Sprouted nuts must be carefully removed and planted in prepared holes to the desired depth, naturally with the roots down, and the shoot up.

That's actually the whole process of germination, the seedlings are given one year to grow up in a shkolka, and then carefully, trying to keep the root, they dig up and plant them in a permanent place.

Thin-skinned nuts are soaked in water for 5-7 days before stratification. © Igor Bilevich

Peculiarities of transplanting walnut seedlings from shkolka

Walnut is a large plant and takes up a lot of space on the plot. When planting one nut, you should not plant other plants and trees within a radius of about 10 m from it. In addition to a large shadow, walnut leaves have another feature. They contain the substance juglone, which has a depressing effect on other plants (even weeds under the nut do not grow well).

See also Which garden plants should not be planted nearby?

I think that fertilizer for nuts is superfluous. Moreover, it has been observed that on highly fertile land, the walnut does not tolerate winter frosts well.

Why is it better to plant seedlings in a school? Even if you only need one seedling, lay a few nuts for stratification and germination. Transplant the seedlings into a shkolka, with a distance of 40-50 cm, and only after a year from the shkolka choose the strongest seedling and plant it in a permanent place.

Walnut often self-sows (and the birds actively sow it around the plot), so you can simplify everything and just dig up ready-made seedlings under a familiar walnut. There are especially many of them where the foliage is not raked. In foliage, nuts undergo natural stratification and the strongest survive.

It is worth planting a nut according to the rules. To do this, they dig a hole 60x60x60 cm. A stake is placed at the bottom and a seedling from a school with a clod of earth is placed next to it. It is recommended not to change the orientation of the seedling to the cardinal points and in no case bury the root collar. Immediately after planting, the seedling must be securely tied to the stake and watered abundantly. Reliable fixation and the absence of air voids at the roots contribute to quick and easy survival.

The formation of the crown is started one year after planting, leaving the central conductor and three branches extending to the side.

Walnut often self-sows, so you can just dig up ready-made seedlings under a familiar walnut. © Igor Bilevich

What should be done to make the walnut fruits large?

Gardeners often argue about whether the properties of the walnut mother plant are preserved when sowing seeds? In other words, if I plant a large nut, will there be large nuts on the future tree? Opinions differ. Apparently the truth, as always, lies in the middle. It's just that those who have planted a large nut and are harvesting the same large nuts will claim that they keep it. Those who, having planted a large one, ended up with a trifle, will deny this. Apparently, you need to plant 100 nuts in one area and find out the percentage of repetition of maternal properties.

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