How to grow pomegranate trees from cuttings

The Best Methods to Propagate Pomegranate Trees

There are several reasons why you might choose to grow your own pomegranate trees at home.

Obviously, there’s the fresh factor – homegrown produce seems to taste better when it’s just been picked than store-bought fruit that’s been shipped from afar and left to sit, doesn’t it?

Then, there’s ease of access. Perhaps your local store doesn’t carry the produce you want, so you’re taking matters into your own hands.

It could also be that you’ve shopped around for commercially available trees and you’re either experiencing sticker shock at the prices you’ve seen, or you’re having trouble finding the variety you want most.

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Maybe you want to start a bunch of plants at once to create your own orchard, and you need to do it affordably, with reliable results – or you want to plant more than one tree for cross-pollination, which is recommended for bigger yields.

Propagating your own trees or shrubs at home is fairly easy, and there are several methods available to you. In this guide, we’ll go over your options, and explain the necessary steps to get started.

What You’ll Learn

  • The Best Pomegranate Propagation Methods for Home Growers
  • Suitable Growing Conditions
  • Rooting Cuttings and Suckers
  • Air Layering
  • Transplanting Potted Nursery Saplings and Bare Root Plants

As you might imagine, there is a lot to cover. But you’ll be more than ready to start your own plants at home by the time you reach the end of this article.

Without further ado, let’s get to it!

The Best Pomegranate Propagation Methods for Home Growers

Each of the techniques described here will result in new plants, or allow you to give ones that you’ve purchased a successful start.

We’ll cover rooting cuttings and air layering, as well as transplanting saplings and bare root plants that you’ve purchased.

Please be aware that propagating pomegranates from seed will produce a plant whose fruit or growth habit is unlike that of the parent plant. We cover this particular propagation method in more detail in a separate guide.

Even with the potential for a wide range of variation in results, it can sometimes still be worth it to experiment with seed-grown trees, as many of the more than 500 named cultivars of pomegranate are derived from variations produced by growing them from seed originally.

But if you want a more reliable result, it’s best to use other methods of propagation.

Please note that grafting or propagating via tissue cultures may also be possible, but these options are generally rare for pomegranates, and typically reserved for commercial use.

Tissue culture propagation requires a sterile lab environment and special equipment, and grafting is not generally preferred since pomegranates are particularly prone to suckering.

Suitable Growing Conditions

Even though these trees can withstand quite a bit of variation in their environment, and sometimes less than ideal soil conditions, they prefer nutrient-rich, loamy soil.

Pomegranate trees that are grown in healthy soil with lots of organic material will generally produce better quality fruit and bigger yields than those growing in less favorable conditions.

Choose a location where plants will receive at least eight hours of direct, full sunlight and where the soil drains well. I suggest testing the soil prior to planting, as these plants prefer slightly acidic to neutral conditions. A pH of 5.5 to 7.0 is best.

It’s also important to allow adequate space between plants, so plan to provide at least 15 feet between each tree if you’re planting multiples – unless you’re planning to form a hedge, in which case six to eight feet should be adequate with proper pruning.

Don’t plant the trees close to structures such as your house, fences, or outbuildings. Allow at least 15 feet between the tree and the structure, unless you plan to do some serious pruning.

Now that you know how to provide ideal growing conditions, read on to learn about the best propagation options for home growers.

Rooting Cuttings and Suckers

If your goal for planting pomegranate trees is to clone the fruit of a mature parent plant, then starting with cuttings works well, and offers a few advantages.

Hardwood cuttings taken from a plant that is already producing fruit will generally produce flowers and fruit in less time than starting from seed.

Healthy, disease resistant, productive trees are the best source of cuttings, especially if you’re growing yours in the same region as the parent is growing in, as opposed to a purchased plant that was grown elsewhere.

Rooting is an easy process if it’s done at the right time. Be aware, however, that some cuttings may not root despite your best efforts. Plan to start with a couple extra to make up for any failures.

It’s best to cut dormant branches for rooting if possible, taken when the plant is not actively growing in late winter. At that time, the natural growth cycle of the plant will encourage rooting and leaf growth in late winter and early spring.

In regions where dormancy does not occur, where year-round temperatures remain above about 50°F, cuttings can be taken at any time of year.

Pomegranates flower at branch tips, so be sure to remove any buds before rooting. Don’t cut too many at a time, particularly if your tree is small, as removing budding branches can reduce your overall harvest the next season.

Look for healthy branches in areas where pruning will open up space in the plant, whether that’s in the canopy of the tree or the interior of the shrub. Extra space encourages airflow and can help to prevent some diseases, like powdery mildew.

You can also use suckers that grow from the roots of a pomegranate tree or shrub for rooting, because these plants are rarely propagated by grafting.

Suckers pruned from trees and shrubs that are grafted, on the other hand, will not typically produce plants that produce fruit like the parent, since they will share the characteristics of the rootstock instead of the scion, or the productive top of the plant.

Rooting the suckers can be especially attractive – not to mention resourceful – if you’re going to prune them anyway to maintain your plant’s tree form, and to prevent them from drawing energy and resources away from the parent.

They’ll have the opportunity to be put to good use, rather than being cast onto the debris pile!

Branches that are about as thick as a pencil generally work best for rooting purposes.

It’s not necessary to select branches that have leaves, as these will need to be trimmed away. Dormant trees in areas where pomegranates are deciduous won’t have any leaves anyway.

Use sharp pruning shears or a knife to cut the branch between leaf nodes at about four to six inches in length. Trim off any leaves or flower buds, so the new plant’s energy will be directed into rooting, rather than supporting above-ground growth.

Suckers can be cut using sharp pruning shears as well, but make sure to cut them above the collar, or the area where the branch begins to widen where it’s attached to the tree.

Be sure to keep your cuttings oriented upright, so the cut portion will be planted and the tip will remain above ground.

Wrap the cuttings in a wet paper towel to keep them moist while they await planting; dried out branches are less likely to take root.

Prepare a planting flat or four-inch pots by filling them with one part soil to one part coarse silica sand. The rooting medium should be porous and loose in texture with good drainage.

Spray the mix with water until it feels slightly moist, but not wet to the touch.

You can scrape half an inch or so of bark off at the base to expose the green cambium layer of the cutting and then dip it in rooting hormone powder if you like, to promote rooting.

Stick the branches about one-half to one inch deep in the rooting medium, but don’t compact it around the base. Make sure they’re deep enough to stay upright.

Place the tray or pots in a warm location; temperatures should be a consistent 70 to 85°F for optimum results.

It’s not necessary to expose the cuttings to sunlight until they begin to form leaf buds, but plan to mist the potting medium at least one a day to keep it moist, as drying out will inhibit rooting.

If you don’t have access to a greenhouse, you can place the flat or pots inside a clear plastic storage tote with a lid to maintain humidity, or wrap individual pots in clear plastic bags.

Humidity is very important for cuttings as they’re not able to take up water without roots, so they absorb it from the air instead.

It can take anywhere from one to two months for cuttings or suckers to root, but you’ll notice the formation of leaf buds when the roots have become established.

After the first few leaves unfurl, you can harden them off to transplant outdoors, or move them to larger pots to continue growing until it’s time to plant them out.

When they’re ready to be planted in their permanent home, choose a location with at least eight hours of sunlight per day.

Pomegranates need lots of sun, but young plants may need some protection for the first year until their canopies are more established.

The site should have good drainage as these plants can’t tolerate soggy soil. And while they can withstand poor soil, they’ll grow and produce better in soil that is rich in nutrients.

You should also be prepared to protect saplings from strong winds, heavy rain, and foraging animals.

Prepare a hole that is twice as wide and one to two inches deeper than the root system, and place the plant in the hole. Backfill around the roots and press the soil with your hands to stabilize the plant.

Water it well to settle and be sure to provide about one inch of water per week for the first year, unless there has been adequate rainfall.

Air Layering

Air layering is another option that’s available to you. This is the process of encouraging roots to develop on a branch that is still attached to the parent plant, and then cutting the rooted branch free to plant elsewhere.

It’s important to note that you shouldn’t use more than two or three branches per tree to layer simultaneously, because the rooting process can be taxing on the tree, leading to poor health overall.

For plants that are composed of both semi-hardwood and hardwood growth, such as the pomegranate, air layering works very well.

It is almost always the easiest and most highly guaranteed method as compared to the other options, for several reasons.

First, air layering allows roots to develop prior to separating the branch from the parent plant, as opposed to taking cuttings – a method that has a moderate rate of failure.

In addition to this, there’s no need to wait like you would for a cutting to develop leaves and then go through the process of hardening off, since the plants will already be acclimated to outdoor growing conditions.

Another advantage is that the propagated portion can potentially be larger, hardier, and ready to produce blossoms and fruit more quickly after being planted in its new home – and the fruit it produces will be clones of that of the parent plant, with the same characteristics.

It’s also the lowest-maintenance propagation method, as compared to the others. After the initial setup, you’ll only need to check on it periodically until it’s ready to be cut and planted, unless it’s disturbed by animals or insects.

If animals or insects do manage to unwrap or penetrate the plastic, check to make sure they haven’t eaten or infested the forming roots. If either occurs, you should remove the wrapping, cut the branch off below the roots, and start over with a new branch.

To begin, all you’ll need is a sharp sanitized plant knife, some sphagnum moss, plastic wrap, and a twist tie, zip tie, or tape.

Or, if you want to simplify the process even further, you can spring for inexpensive and reusable air layering devices such as one of these, available in a set of six from Amazon.

Air Layering Kit

Choose a healthy hardwood branch of 12 to 24 inches in length that is at least one year old.

A branch that shows signs of new growth is ideal, so plan to begin air layering in late winter or early spring in warmer regions, or mid- to late spring in cooler regions.

From the tip of the branch, move down eight to 18 inches, leaving several inches of the branch free between the site and the trunk, and use your knife to cut through the outer layer of bark in a ring all the way around the branch.

About an inch below the first cut, make another parallel cut in a ring all the way around.

Between those two rings, cut only the bark open with a slit, but do not cut into or through the interior of the branch. Pull the ring of bark off and scrape away most of the remaining underlying green cambium layer.

You can dust the exposed portion with rooting hormone powder at this time, if you wish to use it.

Lay a 10- to 12-inch piece of plastic wrap on a flat surface. Moisten a handful of sphagnum moss and place it in the center of the clear plastic wrap.

Or, if you’re using a purchased device, use the moss to fill both sides of the air layering device instead.

Wrap the plastic or snap the device together around the branch to fully enclose the exposed portion, and secure it in place with zip ties, twist ties, or waterproof tape.

It will take at least a few weeks for roots to form, but you’ll be able to tell either by feeling the plastic, which will feel noticeably more firm, or by opening the plastic or the layering device and taking a look.

The roots will be white to light brown, and as they grow, you’ll want to make sure the medium remains moist but not wet.

Adding an eyedropperful of water when you notice the medium feels nearly dry to the touch – about once every one to two weeks – is enough to moisten the medium without causing rotting.

Once the roots fill out in the available space until they’re visible on the outside of the moss, it’s time to cut the branch free of the parent plant.

Use sharp pruning shears and make a clean cut below the wrapped roots, between the root ball and the trunk of the tree. Keep the roots wrapped until you’re ready to plant.

Prepare the planting site – which should have good drainage, loamy soil with lots of organic material, and at least eight hours of full sunlight – with a hole as deep and about twice as wide as the root system. Loosen the soil to allow the young roots to grow easily.

Carefully unwrap the roots and place the plant in the hole, pushing the soil in around it, and pressing with your hands to seat it firmly. Water it deeply to settle it in.

Transplanting Potted Nursery Saplings and Bare Root Plants

The most popular way to propagate pomegranate trees at home is to start with a sapling purchased from a nursery. This allows you to select a healthy cultivar of your choosing.

These are typically between one and three years old, and one to four feet in height. Potted and bare root plants are both available to home gardeners.

Pomegranate trees or shrubs have a relatively shallow root system, with the exception of a taproot that can grow to two to three feet long in mature trees.

Plants purchased from a nursery can also be grown in containers, which we cover in a separate guide. (coming soon!)

Prepare a hole at the planting site that is the same depth and two to three times as wide as the root system of the plant. If the soil is heavy or dense, such as that which contains a large amount of clay, or if it’s compacted, take some time to loosen it up with a hand rake, and consider amending with compost to add organic material.

If your transplants are potted, carefully turn them out of the pots and seat them in the hole at the planting site.

Bare root plants should be seated in the hole at a depth of about two inches above the root system so that most of the stem is positioned above ground level.

In both instances, backfill the space around them with soil and press with your hands to secure into place. Water deeply and monitor moisture levels until they are acclimated to their new home, providing supplementary water as needed.

Ideally, highly productive pomegranates receive about 50 to 60 inches of rainfall or supplemental watering per year to produce the best yields.

In arid climates, you’ll want to make sure you provide enough water throughout the first year in particular. One to two inches of water per week will be adequate to support sapling growth as the root system continues to mature.

Gradually reduce the amount of water you offer toward the end of the first year of the plants’ lives in your garden to encourage the roots to reach more deeply.

One inch of water per week is enough in most regions in the absence of rain.

Now You’re Ready to Start Your Own Pomegranate Plants!

As you can see, there are several ways to begin growing pomegranate trees or shrubs at home, and all of those described here are pretty straightforward.

With a carefully chosen planting site in a sunny spot and some attentive care, your plant will grow healthy and happy, churning out delicious, nutritious seed-filled globes every season.

Have you decided which variety you plan to grow? How will you propagate it? Let us know in the comments section below!

Still seeking more information about growing these ancient fruits? These titles might be of interest for your pomegranate planting perusal:

  • How to Grow and Care for Pomegranate Trees
  • How to Identify and Control Pomegranate Pests and Diseases
  • What Causes Pomegranate Fruits to Crack or Split?

How to Grow Pomegranates From Cuttings | Home Guides

By SF Gate Contributor Updated September 27, 2021

Most pomegranate trees (​Punica granatum L​. ) found in the home landscape started as bare-root, balled-and-burlapped or container-grown specimens, or they were grown from stem cuttings. Growing pomegranate from cuttings reliably reproduces a pomegranate plant without the hassle of growing from seeds, which rarely grow true, and develop the desirable qualities of the parent plant. Pomegranate trees grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11, and have an affinity for fertile, deep, well-draining loam or sandy loam with a pH between 5.5 and 7.0. Although a relatively low-maintenance plant, pomegranates require diligent pruning, regular watering and optimal fertilization to grow from a cutting to a healthy, hardy tree capable of producing vigorously for 15 years or more.

  1. 1. Propagate Pomegranate from Cuttings

    Propagate pomegranate by taking 8- to 10-inch-long cuttings from 1/4- to 1/2-inch-wide shoots or suckers from last year’s growth using pruning shears. Harvest and plant the cuttings in late winter just before the threat of frost passes. Wipe the blades of the pruning shears with a cloth moistened with isopropyl alcohol between cuts.

  2. 2. Plant the Cuttings

    Plant the cuttings in well-draining loam or sandy loam in an area that gets full sun, making sure the top node sticks above the soil line. Plant cuttings 3 to 9 feet apart if growing to shrub form and at least 18 feet apart in all directions if growing to tree form. Alternately, the University of Florida IFAS Citrus Extension suggests planting the cuttings in moist sand or a peat moss and perlite mix.

  3. 3. Water the Cuttings Regularly

    Water the soil you planted the pomegranate cuttings in every seven to 10 days with 2 gallons of water per square foot during normal periods of rainfall. Keep the top 2 inches of soil perpetually moist near the end of the growing season in late summer and before the threat of frost in fall. Pomegranates can tolerate a bit of flooding, so don’t worry about keeping the soil too moist.

  4. 4. Fertilize Young Trees

    Top dress the soil with 1 to 1 1/4 pounds of 8-8-8 fertilizer just before the first frost in late fall and just after the threat of frost passes in early spring during the first two years of growth.

  5. 5. Feed Maure Trees

    Top dress the soil with 2 to 3 1/2 pounds of 8-8-8 fertilizer each year just before the first frost in late fall and just after the threat of frost passes in early spring after the first two years of growth.

  6. 6. Prune When Dormant

    Prune back all the large stems with sterilized lopping shears except the strongest one during the first year’s dormant period to develop a central leader if you want to grow a tree-type pomegranate. Pinch back the new shoots except three to five that grow symmetrically during the first year to serve as the tree’s scaffold branches.

  7. 7. Remove Suckers Immediately

    Grasp suckers and twist them while pulling to remove them from the roots. Use pliers to grasp and twist suckers too dense to twist off by hand. Twisting the suckers off instead of cutting closes the wound and helps prevent them from growing back. The University of Georgia Extension recommends removing suckers as soon as you see them.

  8. 8. Top for a Shrub Form

    Top the pom off to 2 or 2 1/2 feet tall during the first two years of growth to grow a shrub-type pomegranate. The lowest branch on a shrub-type pomegranate should be no lower than 8 to 10 inches above the ground.

  9. 9. Trim All the Branches

    Trim back all the branches to three-fifths of their length and prune back any branches that come in contact with other growth during the first dormant period after planting. Remove old, over-ripe fruit from the pomegranate tree or shrub when you prune, as well as any fruit lying on the ground. Pull weeds growing around the pomegranate when you see them.

    Things You Will Need
    • Pruning shears

    • Cloth

    • Isopropyl alcohol

    • 8-8-8 fertilizer

    • Lopping shears

    • Pliers (optional)


  • University of Florida IFAS Citrus Extension: Starting a Pomegranate Enterprise
  • University of Georgia Extension: Pomegranate Production
  • 4 How to propagate pomegranates at home with seeds
  • 5 Tips and tricks
  • 6 Conclusion
  • Pomegranate, or Punica, that is, the Punic tree, is a deciduous plant that lives up to 60 years, with orange-red flowers and small glossy leaves . In stores, he is a rare guest, so the reproduction of homemade pomegranate is important for flower growers.

    How the pomegranate breeds

    Homemade pomegranate, due to its small size, has gained recognition among lovers of indoor plants. It grows to a height of no more than a meter, is a hybrid, singled out as an individual species Punica nana. It is well formed, therefore it is often grown in the form of bonsai.

    The pomegranate tree can be propagated in two ways:

    • by seeds;
    • cuttings.

    Seed propagation of domestic pomegranate preserves varietal characteristics. For a 100% result of obtaining a particular plant variety, a cutting of the desired variety of homemade pomegranate is grafted onto a shoot grown from a grain.

    Peculiarities of propagation of indoor pomegranate

    Most varieties of pomegranate are propagated vegetatively. The domestic pomegranate tree is a hybrid, hence the germination rate of its seeds is low.

    Another advantage of indoor pomegranate propagation by cuttings is that flowers and fruits appear earlier on such a plant.

    A tree grown from seed blooms later than one obtained from cuttings.

    Attention! When propagating homemade pomegranate with seeds, as a rule, splitting of signs occurs. This means that the seeds ripened in one fruit are heterogeneous.

    How to propagate pomegranate cuttings at home

    There is nothing complicated about it. All guidelines and rules must be followed.

    Terms of cuttings

    It is necessary to propagate homemade pomegranate by cuttings in the spring, when all nature, under the influence of the sun, begins to wake up. For central Russia, this is the end of February - the beginning of March.

    A tree that has rested during the winter is pruned, leaving 3-5 pairs of leaf blades on the shoots of the current year. The cut branches left after the formation of the crown are used for breeding.

    Procurement of cuttings

    To obtain high-quality planting material for propagating domestic pomegranate, choose branches that meet the following requirements:

    1. Cuttings are taken from adult bearing plants.
    2. Of the twigs remaining after shearing homemade pomegranate, leave those that have already begun to be covered with bark, but it is still very thin.
    3. The cutting must have at least 4-5 internodes.
    4. Planting material must be free from disease and pests.

    When trying to root green shoots of domestic pomegranate, a very large percentage of decay, and if you take older branches, the growth of the root system will be slower.

    Rooting cuttings

    Preparation is carried out before rooting cuttings of homemade pomegranate. To do this:

    • remove the four bottom sheets;
    • the stem is cut at an angle, retreating 2-3 mm from the internode;
    • leave 2-3 pairs of leaves on top, remove the rest;
    • be sure to pinch the growth point, if any;
    • bottom is treated with Kornevin or Heteroauxin;

    Propagate decorative pomegranate cuttings by planting them in the ground or placing them in water.

    In water

    To do this, take a transparent glass vessel. The plastic is very light, and if handled carelessly, it can turn over, which will damage the young roots. Water is poured just enough to cover the second internode. The vessel is placed in a bright, shaded from direct sunlight, warm place.

    Important! It is necessary to monitor the transparency of the solution. If it begins to become cloudy, then the stalk of a homemade pomegranate is taken out and washed in a slightly pinkish solution of manganese.

    The container is also washed, poured with fresh settled warm water, and the sprigs of homemade pomegranate are placed back.

    When roots appear after 2-3 weeks, the cutting is planted in the ground. This method of pomegranate propagation at home has one significant drawback: the roots that have grown in water partially die when planted in the soil, and the plant spends time adapting and growing new roots.

    In the ground

    The substrate for rooting cuttings of domestic pomegranate can be any, but sufficiently loose and breathable. It could be:

    • purchased primer for general use;
    • prepared independently from peat and river sand, with the addition of soddy soil or leaf humus;
    • perlite or vermiculite.

    For planting homemade pomegranate cuttings, you need to prepare plastic 100 gram cups, preferably transparent, so that the formation of roots can be seen. Glass jars or 1-1.5 liter plastic bottles cut into 2 parts.

    Planting takes place according to the scheme:

    • pour the substrate into the cup;
    • Insert the stem at a slight angle into the ground so that both internodes are in the ground;
    • press soil around the handle;
    • moisten the substrate well;
    • cover a glass jar with a handle of a decorative pomegranate or place it inside a cut plastic bottle;
    • place in a bright, warm place, but not in direct sunlight.

    Until the root system begins to grow, the cuttings of homemade pomegranate are kept under the "hood", airing once a day, and making sure that the soil is slightly moist. Roots appear in 2-4 weeks.

    Further care

    Since the Punic tree is a tropical plant, successful cultivation of pomegranate cuttings at home requires a microclimate as close as possible to its natural habitat:

    1. Bright diffused sunlight. On the southern windows, the plant should be shaded at lunchtime. Pomegranates are accustomed to the sun gradually.
    2. High humidity. If the apartment is too dry, then homemade pomegranate is sprayed, or the humidity is increased artificially.
    3. Air temperature in the range of +20-25°С. At higher values, domestic pomegranate begins to lose leaves, growth and development slows down. You can lower the temperature by spraying with cold water or by placing a plastic bottle with ice nearby. In summer, it is recommended to keep the plant outdoors.
    4. Timely and adequate watering. Moisten the soil should be when the top layer of the earth dries.
    5. Top dressing. Fertilize homemade pomegranate should be 2 times a month. In the spring, top dressings with a high nitrogen content are used, and since July - with a preponderance of phosphorus and potassium.

    In winter, a dormant period begins for domestic pomegranate. A plant that has not reached the age of 3 years is kept at a temperature of + 12-16 ° C, watered less often and not fed.

    Attention! The crown of a homemade pomegranate begins to form from "infancy". After 3-5 pairs of leaf blades have grown, the growth points are pinched to induce branching.


    The first transplanting of a domestic pomegranate is done when the roots entangle the entire earthen ball in the cup. Transplanted into a pot, the diameter of which is 2-3 cm larger than the previous one, in early spring.

    The root system of a homemade pomegranate is superficial, so it is not recommended to take a deep container, as the ground below will begin to turn sour.

    Important! If the pot is taken in a larger volume, then the plant will slow down its growth until the root system has mastered the entire capacity.

    Move the homemade pomegranate into a new pot using the transshipment method:

    • drainage must be poured into the bottom;
    • Sprinkle a little soil on top;
    • place an earth ball with a handle in the center of the pot;
    • Spread the substrate on the sides and compact.

    Until the domestic pomegranate is 3 years old, it is transplanted annually.

    How to propagate pomegranates at home with seeds

    In addition to cuttings, pomegranates can be propagated at home by seeds. To do this, use the bones of a fresh, fully ripe fruit. They do not lose their properties up to 6 months. Seeds of varietal types of homemade pomegranate are sold in garden stores.

    Select the largest fruit for propagation and do not pluck it from the tree until the skin has hardened. Grains use the largest. If planting is delayed for some time, then the pulp from the seeds is removed and dried.

    The substrate for the germination of pomegranate seeds is prepared from equal parts of peat and river sand. Planting is carried out according to the scheme:

    • a layer of soil 6-8 cm is poured into the container and it is well moistened;
    • spread the seeds on the surface at a distance of 2-3 cm from each other;
    • cover with soil to a height of 0. 5 cm, compact it and moisten it;
    • the container is covered with glass or cling film and placed in a warm place;
    • Seed germination occurs at a temperature of +25-27°C.

    After the appearance of green sprouts, the glass or film is removed and the container is placed in a bright, warm place, but not under direct sunlight. Seedlings dive after 4 true leaves appear on them. For this, plastic transparent cups of 100 ml are suitable.

    Care, pruning and replanting, in the future, are the same as for young pomegranates obtained as a result of cuttings.

    Tips and tricks

    Before starting homemade pomegranate in an apartment, you need to be sure that there are all conditions for growth. The pomegranate comes from the southern latitudes, where there is a lot of sunlight, so it will not feel very comfortable on the eastern and western windowsills. Northern windows are contraindicated for him. For its successful cultivation, southeast, south or southwest window sills are required.

    The pomegranate tree grows well on neutral soils, so acidification of the substrate should not be allowed. For this reason, oak soil cannot be used.

    The clod of earth must not dry out, otherwise the pomegranate will shed its leaves and the root system will die. But you shouldn’t plant a swamp in a pot either - the roots will begin to rot. Especially carefully it is necessary to monitor the watering regime during the dormant period.

    Before planting, dry grains are soaked for several hours in water with growth stimulants.


    Propagation and cultivation of homemade pomegranate will bring not only aesthetic pleasure, but also useful results. You just need to follow the rules for caring for the plant. Make sure that the tree does not hurt, is not attacked by pests. Carry out preventive treatment with appropriate drugs.

    Pomegranate cuttings - rules and principles care, planting, watering, photos, varieties

    vyacheslav vyacheslav 27 September 2012

    There are hardly any people who are indifferent to such a magnificent plant, its grace and beautiful flowering, not to mention the appetizing fruits that attract many gardeners like a magnet. Many dream of a pomegranate decorating their well-groomed areas. However, many are stopped by elementary ignorance of the rules for growing this crop and caring for it. Although in practice there is nothing supernatural in these processes, and the pomegranate itself is surprisingly unpretentious. With some care, its shoots are quite viable and strong, and subsequently they are transformed into magnificent seedlings.

    Pomegranate is propagated both by seeds and vegetatively. If you want to grow pomegranates from seeds, they must be obtained exclusively from fully ripe fruits with the appropriate taste, large size and high quality - this is the only way you will have guarantees that the daughter plant will have all the characteristics of the mother, however, for this for at least two or three years, it is necessary to correctly form the crown of the plant and provide it with proper care.

    Primer universal Fasco 10l

    Liquid fertilizer Ogorodnik Barrel and four buckets organic-mineral potassium humate 0.6l

    However, gardeners still prefer vegetative propagation of pomegranate - in other words, they use cuttings to plant the plant.

    Pomegranate is also propagated using root shoots, with the help of which the plant is rejuvenated, due to which the branches that have lost their flexibility are restored to a state that allows them to cover the plant for the winter.

    Cuttings of a pomegranate tree

    With the help of cuttings, high-quality pomegranate seedlings are obtained, based on the plant's ability to actively regenerate, that is, the plant is able to quickly restore not only life-supporting functions, but also restore both damaged organs and their individual parts. By the way, it is regeneration that contributes to the formation of additional roots by cuttings.

    Many factors can affect the process of root regeneration. So, what should be taken into account in order to obtain really high-quality and promising seedlings? First, only strong and healthy shoots from quality mother plants should be rooted. It is advisable to choose frost-resistant crops. Harvesting is carried out at the end of the collection of fruits, in the autumn.

    For cuttings, it is ideal to use one-year-old or, in extreme cases, two-year-old shoots. Shoots are cut and cleaned of lateral branches, as well as thin, dry, upper and non-lignified ends and thorns.

    Next, the prepared shoots must be tied in bunches, and then laid horizontally on the bottom of a pre-formed trench, the depth of which exceeds the level of the soil frozen during frosts. From above, the shoots should be covered with moist soil and covered with a 20-centimeter layer of straw. Thus, the shoots are stored until spring. You can take out the shoots only after the soil has completely thawed.

    After you dig up the shoots, they should be carefully examined and shrunken or damaged specimens sorted out. The remaining shoots are cut into pieces up to a quarter meter long. In this case, the lowest cut is carried out under the kidney in order to accelerate the formation of callus, as well as the development of the root system. The upper cut is made, stepping back two centimeters of the kidney.

    Choosing a place for planting pomegranate seedlings

    When choosing a site for planting pomegranate , flat terrain should be preferred. If there is still a slope, it should be directed to the south side. Also, this area should be well protected from the winds. Pomegranate soil needs fertile, and regular moisture.

    So, pomegranate cuttings should be planted in May - so you will be sure that your seedlings will not die under the influence of insidious frosts. Before planting, soak the seedlings in clean running water for twelve hours. When planting, observe a 12-centimeter interval between seedlings, tilting them slightly to the south side - so young plants will be better lit during development. When planting, cuttings need to be deepened, and only one bud is allowed to be left on the surface, after which the seedling must be spudded, covering the tops with earth.

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    At the end of the planting process, water the seedlings - ideally by sprinkling - so that the soil settles well and the cuttings take root. Further care is quite standard: regular watering, periodic loosening of row spacing and the application of organic fertilizers to the root area of ​​plants. It is necessary to stop watering no earlier than the end of October, or even mid-November, when the foliage has completely fallen off.

    When the seedlings have grown a little, they must be carefully dug out, trying to maintain the integrity of the root system. After digging, the seedlings are carefully sorted again in order to destroy all damaged or diseased plants in time. If the seedling reaches a height of at least half a meter, has up to four shoots and a well-developed rhizome, it is suitable for further cultivation.

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