How to grow wisteria tree from seed
All You Need to Know About Wisteria Seed Pods and Growing New Plants
The best part of growing Wisteria is undoubtedly the luscious, blue-purple flower clusters that grace the garden every spring, but Wisteria seed pods are fun too! These pods show up a few weeks after the vine has finished blooming and contain seeds that, if left alone, will burst out to self-seed as they dry. The long, dangling pods appear on Wisteria vines in the late summer or fall.
Green or brown, Wisteria seed pods resemble large beans or pea pods (like peas and beans, Wisteria is part of the legume family), but Wisteria seed pods are NOT edible. Once the pods dry out in the late autumn, they explode, spreading seeds to start the next generation of Wisteria.
Some gardeners remove their Wisteria’s seed pods; others enjoy the aesthetic. There are pros and cons to allowing the seed pods to develop and eventually explode. Keep reading and you’ll learn everything you need to know about these unique looking pods.
What are the Pods on Wisteria Plants?
Like other flowering plants, Wisteria reproduces itself via seeds. As the scented flowers eventually fade, they give way to long pods that hold the seeds that then, quite literally, explode to the ground and grow into new Wisteria plants.
Late summer or early fall is usually when you’ll notice pods that resemble oversized green beans or snow peas appearing on your Wisteria. Like these vegetables, Wisteria is a member of the Fabaceae family, also called the legume family. However, Wisteria is poisonous. You should never allow children or pets (or any animal) to eat any part of the Wisteria plant, especially the seed pods.
Wisteria seed pods start out green and then turn brown as they dry out in the fall. American Wisteria has smooth seed pods, while the pods on Asian varieties are fuzzy or velvety. Chinese Wisteria often doesn’t produce any seed pods at all.
When and Why do Wisteria Pods Explode?
First-time Wisteria growers may get a surprise in the fall when Wisteria seed pods start exploding. You may notice a sound like popcorn popping, the seeds flying through the air, or your dog or cat going nuts at the window.
So why does Wisteria have these wacky exploding pods? It’s how the plant distributes its seeds in nature. If they just dropped straight to the ground, the new seedlings would be in competition with each other (and the parent vine) and wouldn’t be able to reach new places to grow.
Getting seeds to new locations is a common need among plants, and exploding seed pods is just one of the creative ways nature takes care of itself. Some plants, such as Maple Trees, Cottonwoods, and Dandelions, have seeds designed to blow away in the wind. Other plants enclose their seeds in tasty fruit for animals to eat and deposit wherever they go, and sticky seeds like burs attach themselves to people or animals and get carried off to new places that way.
So, Wisteria pods pop, and the seeds shoot out into the air, landing a few feet from where they would have fallen had they just dropped straight down. Wisteria seed pods don’t start to pop until after they’ve dried out. After that, a warm fall day will trigger the pods to explode. Taking the pods inside your warm house can also trigger this.
Should I Remove Wisteria Seed Pods?
It’s up to you whether to remove the seed pods or leave them on your Wisteria. On the one hand, the seed pods have aesthetic appeal, the popping is fun, and you save time by not removing them. However, the seeds may sprout all over your yard, and kids or pets may try to eat the seeds, which are poisonous.
Some gardeners like to leave Wisteria seed pods on the vine because they add visual interest in the late summer, fall, and winter. In the spring, though, the pods could block your view of the flowers, so you may wish to remove them before bloom time. In that case, I recommend removing the seed pods when you do your winter pruning (learn more about pruning Wisteria here).
Removing all of the seed pods from your Wisteria can be a bit of a mission if your vine is large. Just as with pruning or deadheading, you’ll probably need to get the ladder to get at all of the seed pods and snip them off. So leaving the pods on your Wisteria can definitely be a time saver.
I think the exploding seed pods are unique and fun, but some people find them annoying. The seeds ping against nearby windows and walls, and they can also make a bit of a mess underfoot if the Wisteria is growing above a porch, patio, or sidewalk. However, it doesn’t take that long for all of the pods to pop. If you’re not at home on the warm afternoon that triggers the exploding to start, you might miss it.
Depending on the Wisteria variety you have and the growing conditions in your yard, you could get a lot of Wisteria seedlings coming up from all of those seeds. Asian Wisteria varieties can be extremely invasive in some environments. Unless you want a Wisteria forest, preventing self-seeding is a good reason to remove the seed pods before they pop. But some people find that their Wisteria seeds don’t sprout in their yard, so it may not be an issue for you.
If you have small children or animals of any kind sharing your yard, it’s a good idea to get rid of your Wisteria’s seed pods so that nobody tries to eat one. The whole Wisteria plant is poisonous, but the pods and seeds are the most potent part, and kids and pets sometimes make themselves sick by eating them.
Remember, you won’t get seed pods if you deadheaded your Wisteria after blooming. If you don’t want the pods, deadheading is a good choice since it prevents them from growing in the first place.
Can Wisteria Be Grown from Seed?
You can grow new Wisteria plants from seeds, but it’s not the best way to propagate. Wisteria vines that you buy at a plant nursery are usually grafted, and the seeds they produce aren’t really intended for growing new Wisteria vines. Your plants grown from seed may turn out to be very different from the parent.
Also, Wisteria takes a long time to mature, which is important to know if you want to try your hand at starting a new plant from seed. It can take as many as 20 years for Wisteria grown from seeds to start blooming, and some never bloom at all. If you’re lucky, you might start to get flowers after about seven years.
If you want to propagate your Wisteria, you have other options besides planting seeds. Wisteria can easily be grown from cuttings, or you can try air layering. You may choose to grow seedlings as rootstock for grafting.
How to Harvest Wisteria Seeds
If you want to grow Wisteria from seed, the first step is to collect some seeds. It’s best to harvest seed pods before they explode. Otherwise, you’ll have to hunt around on the ground for individual seeds.
Wisteria seed pods are ready to pick once they have dried out and turned brown. This is usually around the time the leaves fall from the Wisteria in the autumn.
Once you’ve collected your seed pods, store them in a closed paper bag or cardboard box so that when they explode, the seeds will be caught in the container. Keep them warm and dry so that the seed pods will finish drying out and pop. You can also break the seeds out of the pods, but exploding is a good indicator that the seeds are ready.Hannes Grobe, CC BY 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
How to Grow Wisteria from Seed
You’ll harvest your Wisteria seeds in the fall, and you can either plant them right away or wait until spring. If you wait to plant your seeds, store them in a cool, dry place. Some people like to keep their Wisteria seeds in the refrigerator (just make sure no one gets confused and eats them).
In the fall, you can start your seeds indoors and take care of the plants inside over the winter, or you can sow the seeds directly in the ground (provided it’s already pretty chilly), though they won’t germinate until spring. If you wait until spring to plant, you can still sow your seeds in the ground or start them in containers.
If you start your seeds inside in the fall, they’ll be ready to plant outside as soon as it’s warm enough come spring. If you start the seeds in spring, it may be summer by the time they’re ready to be transplanted to the garden. Either way is fine as long as the seedlings have at least a month and a half to get established in the ground before the first frost day.
To plant your seedlings outside in the spring, wait until the last frost day has passed and the soil has warmed up. Your Wisteria seedlings won’t like nights below 55° Fahrenheit.
How to Start Wisteria Seeds Indoors
Step 1: Prepare the Seeds
Wisteria seeds have tough hulls. To help the seeds sprout, start by either nicking the hull with a sharp blade or scraping it with a nail file. Then, soak the seeds in warm water for 24 hours.
Step 2: Prepare the Pots
Use large seed starting containers for Wisteria, such as three-inch pots with drainage holes. Fill the containers with seed starting medium (such as coir) or potting soil. Thoroughly moisten the soil or sprouting medium.
Step 3: Plant the Seeds
Push each seed one-half to one inch deep and cover lightly with the soil or seed sprouting medium. Plant one seed in each container.
Step 4: Water and Wait
Water often to keep the soil moist while you wait for the seeds to sprout. Wisteria seeds take between 10 and 30 days to germinate. Make sure your seedlings get plenty of sunshine. Room temperature is ideal for germination.
Step 5: Harden Off and Transplant Seedlings
Once your seedlings have two sets of true leaves and are about five inches tall, it’s time to transplant them to give them more space to grow. If you planted them in a seed starting medium, they’d also need to be transplanted to soil in order to get the nutrients they need to keep growing.
You can transplant your seedlings to the garden or into bigger pots filled with potting soil. If you’re planting your seedlings outside at this stage, be sure to select an appropriate spot with room to grow and plenty of sunshine. Allow at least six inches of space between seedlings (you’ll thin them more later).
If you’re planting your seedlings outside, be sure to harden them off first. Start by moving the seedlings outside for about an hour on a mild day that isn’t windy. Gradually increase exposure to outdoor conditions until your seedlings are used to being outside all day and exposed to wind and direct sun.
How to Sow Wisteria Seeds Outside
If you want to skip the indoor portion of the growing process, you can always sow seeds directly into the ground. First, think through where you want your Wisteria to grow. It will need lots of space, something to climb up, and full or nearly full sun. Then, prepare the soil by loosening it and, optionally, amending it with some organic matter.
To plant seeds directly outside in the fall, simply push each one an inch deep into the ground and cover it with soil. Leave at least three inches of space between seeds.
If you’re planting in spring, follow the nicking/scratching and soaking process you would for germinating the seeds indoors before planting them in the ground. Then water regularly to keep the soil moist.
As your seedlings grow, thin them out so that they have plenty of space. Eventually, you may want to choose just one to be your new Wisteria plant. If you want to grow several Wisteria vines, allow at least ten feet of space between them. You can plant your seedlings ten feet apart to start with, but it’s better to create the space by thinning as your seedlings grow because some of them may not survive.
Unless you deadhead, your Wisteria will most likely produce seed pods, depending on the variety, the weather, and your pollinators. Deadheading will prevent seed pods from forming in the first place.
Wisteria seed pods really do explode! The seeds make a popping noise and come flying out and land a few feet away, which is how Wisteria naturally spreads its seeds. The popping usually happens on a warm day in late fall. But if you don’t want Wisteria seeds all over your yard, you can simply remove the seed pods before they turn brown or totally dry out. And remember– Wisteria pods and seeds are poisonous.
Many gardeners love to keep the seed pods because of the aesthetics in the fall and winter months when so many gardens are dull and brown. There’s also the fun of seeing the pods pop, the option to collect seeds to grow.
On the other hand, you may want to remove the seed pods because they’re poisonous if eaten. Removing them also prevents seeds from sprouting on their own all over the yard. Getting the pods out of the way now will provide extra room for next year’s buds to grow in and give you a better view of their cascading petals.
You can grow Wisteria from seeds, but your plants may take many years to bloom and won’t necessarily resemble the Wisteria you got the seeds from. If you want to plant Wisteria seeds, the best time to collect them is in the fall, after the pods dry up and turn brown but before they pop. Wisteria seeds should be planted in either spring or fall.
How to Germinate Dried Wisteria Seeds | Home Guides
By Sasha Degnan Updated November 28, 2018
Graceful, sweet-smelling wisteria (Wisteria sinensis) adds color and subtle fragrance to gardens throughout USDA zones 5 through 8 with its trailing bunches of soft purple flowers. It produces an abundance of flat, disc-shaped seeds inside each of its distinctive pods, which can be used to grow a new plant. Although wisteria seeds germinate reliably, the resulting plants may take eight to 12 years to bloom, which is why most growers opt for vegetative methods such as cuttings, grafts and layering.
Gathering Wisteria Seeds
Wisteria vines bloom in late spring to early summer and soon produce slender, pealike pods after the flowers fade. The pods start out green and mature to a dark brown color in autumn, at which point the seeds are ready to be harvested. Before handling the pods and seeds, put on a pair of gloves to protect your hands since wisteria pods and seeds are both toxic. Break open the pods and remove the flat, coin-shaped seeds. The seeds can be sown immediately or stored until the following spring in a cool, dry place.
Shake the wisteria pod to determine if it's dry enough to harvest – if the seeds rattle inside, it's ready to be picked.
Prepping Wisteria Seeds
Mature, fully dried wisteria seeds need a little preparation, whether you’re sowing them immediately or storing them until next spring. The tough outer hulls need to be weakened slightly to allow the embryo inside to germinate. Rubbing a file or rasp against the edge of the seed to thin the shell works well, as does pressing the blade of a box cutter against the edge to create a shallow nick. After wounding the seeds, soak them in hot water for 24 hours to hydrate and further soften the shell.
Sowing Wisteria Seeds
Wisteria vines grow quickly, so it’s best to start the seeds in individual 3-inch pots to give the seedlings plenty of space to grow for their first few weeks of life. Choose pots with drainage holes around the bottom and fill them with a soilless seed-starting mixture because it’s sterile, moisture retentive and free from weed seeds, unlike some standard potting soils. Sow wisteria seeds 2 inches deep, which is a depth equal to about four times their width. Set the pots on a tray to catch any water that leaks from the drainage holes; then drizzle water into each pot to settle the soil.
Sow wisteria seeds directly in the ground in autumn or spring, if desired.
Germinating Wisteria Seeds
Unlike many seeds, wisteria seeds don’t require very high temperatures to germinate. Keep nighttime temperatures above 55 degrees Fahrenheit and daytime temperatures around 75 F. Check the moisture level in the growing mixture every day and mist the soil with water whenever it feels mostly dry on the surface. Don’t let the soil dry out completely, but also don’t keep it dripping wet because the seeds might rot. Wisteria seeds take a month or more to sprout, at which point, move the pots near a bright, sunny window to encourage growth.
Wisteria Seedling Care
Once the wisteria seedlings produce two pairs of mature leaves, it’s time to transplant them into larger nursery containers to continue growing until it’s time to plant them in the garden. Opt for 1/2-gallon pots with multiple drainage holes at the base as well as organically rich potting soil with some perlite to help retain moisture. When transplanting the wisteria seedlings, make sure they are planted at the same depth as they were in their starter pots. Grow the seedlings under bright, sheltered conditions outdoors, watering each week when the soil dries out on the surface. Wisteria vines need little to no fertilizer early on, so avoid feeding until after they’re planted in a permanent garden bed.li
Many commonly cultivated wisteria varieties are cultivars that may not reproduce faithfully from seed. For example, white-flowered varieties, such as ‘Alba’ (Wisteria sinensis ‘Alba’), USDA zones 5 through 8, are hybrids, and their seeds may not produce a plant with the same attractive traits as the parent plant.
Wisteria vines are mildly invasive, so prune off the immature seed pods and discard any pruned stems into the green waste bin to keep the vines from spreading beyond your yard.
- Monrovia: Chinese Wisteria
- Park Seed Company Success With Seed: Wisteria Sinensis
- University of Minnesota Extension: Starting Seeds Indoors
- Texas A&M University Department of Horticulture: Propagation of Ornamental Tree, Shrubs and Woody Vines
- Extension.Org: Ask An Expert: When To Pick Wisteria Pods?
- Texas A&M University Department Of Horticulture: Common Poisonous Plants And Plant Parts
- Missouri Botanical Garden: Wisteria Sinensis 'Alba'
Sasha Degnan is a freelance writer and educator specializing in gardening and horticulture. She has nearly 25 years of experience in the propagation and care of plants.
Rules for Growing Wisteria from Seeds
Growing wisteria from seeds is not an easy but exciting process. But, it's worth it, because there is no more beautiful liana in the world than wisteria wisteria. Its luxurious clusters of flowers form heavenly domes filled with a wondrous aroma. Famous gardens in Japan and China are not complete without wisteria.
Once seeing the plant splendor, the gardener firmly decides to grow wisteria on the plot. How is the cultivation of wisteria from seeds, learn more.
- 1 What is wisteria and what it looks like
- 2 Conditions for growing wisteria
- 3 Glycinia Glecy from seeds
- 4 transplantation to open soil
- 5 Caring for adults
what is glycine and how glycies and how she looks like
The plant belongs to the legume family, perennial. Creepers grow up to 30-40 m in length and are tree-like branches wrapping around the host's trunk or any other support.
As adults, the creepers thicken so much that the trunk of the tree on which the wisteria is located dies. Wisteria strangles trees and is considered a parasite in nature. Upholsters the support in a strictly clockwise direction. The plant blooms from June to October, depending on the region of growth.
Inflorescences form a raceme of purple, white or lilac. Lianas begin to bloom at 4-5 years of age, sometimes at 3. The length of the bunches of flowers reaches 70 cm. Wisteria grows very slowly, its average life expectancy is 100 years. Therefore, it is worth giving her a place where she could grow for a dozen years. The foliage of the plant is dense, the leaves are large, pinnate and reach a length of 30 cm.
The main habitat of wisteria is subtropics, South America, Japan, China. She loves warmth, moisture and long daylight hours. In the northern regions, wisteria is grown in greenhouses and winter gardens.
The most popular types of wisteria in horticulture are Chinese and Japanese wisteria, profusely flowering. It is worth considering one drawback of wisteria - it is a poisonous plant. Do not grow it in the case of closely located groundwater.
Growing wisteria from seeds in the garden is not that difficult. The main thing is to provide her with the conditions of "accommodation" and carefully care for the insidious beauty.
Growing Conditions for Wisteria
Because Wisteria is a southern plant, it needs to be grown in the right conditions. The site should be selected so that the wisteria is under the rays of the sun for almost the entire day. She loves sunny and even hot places, but sufficiently moist.
House decorated with wisteria
Wisteria does not tolerate drafts. This must be taken into account when growing in greenhouses, where a draft is a frequent phenomenon. In open ground, select a site protected from strong winds. The main condition for growing vines is a reliable support. In nature, the plant wraps around trees and lives on them, multiplies.
It is necessary to build something similar in the conditions of the site. The foundations are best dug into the ground and poured with cement mortar. That is, they must be strong, otherwise the plant will squeeze them in the second or third year of life. The mass of adult thickets can reach 100 tons in large areas of growth. Keep this in mind.
If you plan to grow a ram tree and keep it at home during the winter, the same conditions should be followed. In winter, the indoor air temperature should not exceed 13 °.
It is imperative to observe the temperature regime, otherwise the whimsical beauty may wither or die. The substrate for wisteria should be nutritious and loose.
Observing simple growing conditions, it will be much easier for the gardener to cope with the capricious wisteria.
Growing wisteria from seeds
Liana can be propagated in many ways - cuttings, shoots, grafting or seeds.
Consider the most reliable and easiest way - seeds. They can always be found in a specialized garden store.
In order to successfully grow wisteria seedlings, it is necessary to prepare the seeds before planting.
You can do this already in December-January. The plant grows very slowly. Having planted the seeds in December, by May the seedlings will be ready for planting in open ground.
Soak the beans in damp cheesecloth for a while. Constantly check the readiness of the seeds - they should swell and hatch a little.
Legume growers will find it much easier to determine when the seed is ripe and ready for planting.
While the beans are in a damp gauze, prepare the substrate for wisteria seedlings, which is important for the successful cultivation of seedlings.
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In addition to gauze, you can take another fabric, the main thing is that it be made of natural material. It is necessary to constantly ensure that the fabric does not dry out. You need to moisten it with a spray bottle and only warm water. You need to check the condition of the seeds several times a day, because if they dry out, then all the work will be in vain, they will no longer sprout.
Open the cloth or gauze regularly during the germination period. Otherwise, the seeds may be banned or mold may begin to multiply on them.
When sprouts appear, ready-made seeds should be immediately planted in the ground. Otherwise, the tip of the sprout may dry out and turn black, such planting material is no longer suitable. In addition, if the sprouts become too long and begin to intertwine, it will be difficult to separate them.
We recommend using tweezers for planting germinated seeds, as the germinates are very easy to damage. You need to put them in the hole with a sprout up, so that it is easier for them to break through the ground.
Prepare a fertile and light substrate for seedlings. It is better to do this in advance and take care of the soil from the summer. To prepare the soil for wisteria, three parts of leafy soil are mixed, and one turf and sand each. Many gardeners add peat to the soil under wisteria. However, it acidifies the earth, which the plant does not like. Therefore, it is better not to experiment with the addition of peat.
Ready mix available from gardening stores. But it is safer to cook everything yourself. So the grower will know for sure about the composition of the soil and its suitability. Humus can be added to the substrate as an organic fertilizer. The bottom of the container is lined with expanded clay or broken bricks.
Drainage will provide good moisture permeability, which is very fond of wisteria.
Having prepared the soil, you can safely start planting swollen beans. This is easy to do, the main thing is to follow the landing process, its technology.
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To make the soil loose, you can add a little sawdust, but we recommend being careful with sand. If you put too much, then the soil will become hard after watering, and you will have to loosen it so that oxygen enters the roots.
As for the drainage, take care of its presence in the container in advance. It is important that the holes are evenly spaced. You can also put sand on the bottom. The soil must be sterilized, otherwise the seedlings may be attacked by pests or fungal spores that have wintered in it.
When adding manure or other organic matter, remember that it must be well rotted. Otherwise, there is a risk of burning the roots of plants, not to mention the fact that there is not much benefit from fresh organic fertilizers.
Wisteria seeds are planted in the ground without deepening. Beans are covered with earth 1 cm thick, no more. A flowerpot or a box with planted seeds is covered with a film or glass.
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It is necessary to monitor the condition of the film or glass, as this is a good indicator of the need for watering. If the coating is completely dry, then it is time to water the seedlings, and if it is so wet that nothing can be seen through it, you need to ventilate the seedlings.
Keep containers in a dark place. The air temperature in the room where wisteria seeds are germinated should be 22 ° -25 °. The first sprouts appear after 30-40 days, depending on the type and variety of the plant.
Seeds are sown in December or January. The main condition for the successful emergence of seedlings is compliance with the temperature regime and the rules of care.
Once the seeds are in the ground, the seedlings need to be monitored and looked after in a timely manner. Watering the soil is a prerequisite for the germination of beans. The soil should always be moist, but not wet.
Be sure to remove the condensation that has formed on the film or glass, and ventilate the container. If you do not follow this simple rule, a fungus may develop on the sprouts that have appeared. This disease can lead to the death of seedlings.
Two formed leaves serve as a signal to start the hardening of seedlings - adaptation to the sun.
Gradually acclimate the seedlings to the light by placing the container on a windowsill facing west or east for a few hours. Direct sunlight should not fall on young plants.
Before transplanting into open ground, the seedlings are hardened off already in the fresh air, taking the containers out for a day on a balcony or garden.
Seedlings need to be fed with a complex of mineral fertilizers once every three weeks. Agronomists generally recommend dispensing with a one-time feeding of seedlings immediately after the appearance of the first three leaves. The next fertilization will be already in the open ground after transplantation.
Follow simple care instructions. So the seedlings will successfully develop, prepare for transplantation and endure it perfectly.
Seedlings are transplanted at the end of May, when the soil has warmed up and the danger of frost has passed. To do this, a pit and soil are prepared in the place chosen for the wisteria. The size of the recess for the plant is 60x60 cm, the depth is 50 cm.
The soil is mixed with humus, mineral fertilizers and sand are added. Instead of humus, you can use compost - wisteria will appreciate it. The soil should be fertile and loose with good drainage.
Wisteria grown from sprouts
Some gardeners cover transplanted young seedlings with foil. However, it is not advisable to do this, the sprouts will not adapt well. If the place is chosen correctly, there is no strong wind, the site is sunny, there will be no problems with adaptation. Wisteria does a pretty good job of transplanting. The main thing is to properly prepare the soil.
Seedlings are planted at a distance of 50 cm. Keep in mind that the plant is poisonous. Do not place wisteria near vegetable crops or fruit trees, fish ponds.
Having transplanted seedlings to the permanent habitat of wisteria, the gardener will only have to properly care for the southern miracle and form vines in time.
Care of an adult plant
Wisteria develops slowly, so in the first years of life, the gardener will only need to feed the plant and water. Later, the wisteria must be shaped and directed. Timely pruning promotes more lush flowering and density of greenery.
The first application of mineral or organic fertilizer is carried out immediately after planting the seedlings. But only if humus and other nutrients were not added to the soil. The second top dressing is carried out during the period of ovary buds.
For a simpler orientation in the frequency of top dressing, it is enough to remember one rule - mineral and organic fertilizers are applied alternately to the soil every 15 days from spring to August. Nitrogen preparations are applied only in May and June. July, August - phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
Feeding is especially important in the first years of a plant's life. At the age of 5, the frequency of fertilization is reduced to once a month.
In the first year of a wisteria's life, pruning is necessary if you want to achieve lush flowering.
The procedure is optional, but many gardeners prefer to do so. The main stem is cut to a strong bud, the shoots are also shortened. In the second year of life, the same procedure is performed.
In the third year, the plant begins to form additional leading stems. They need to be cut to a strong bud. Shoots are pruned. If growth has formed, it is removed. In all subsequent years, pruning occurs in the same way, without changes.
This will result in a lush and dense vegetation, beautifully wrapping around an arch or tree trunk. Pruning may or may not be carried out, it remains at the discretion of the gardener. However, this procedure organizes the bushes and brings some order.
Young plants must be covered for the winter. To do this, you need to prepare spruce branches, mulch and covering material. The soil is carefully shed with rainwater. Covered with mulch of cut grass or bark with a layer of 15 cm. Creepers are laid on it from supports, that is, the branches of the plant should not touch the ground. From above, the wisteria is again closed with spruce branches and covering material. If the winters are too harsh, it is advisable to cover the plant with a wooden box. Adult bushes, from 8 years old, can not be closed like that. However, in the northern regions, it is advisable to always close wisteria for the winter.
How the beauty is covered for the winter will depend on her further development. Often plants cannot stand too low temperatures - -30 °, -35 °. Therefore, many growers grow it in flowerpots in the form of a stem tree, which can be brought indoors for the winter.
While watching the video you will learn about growing wisteria.
Observing all the rules of care, lush flowering and a fabulous look will be provided. Growing wisteria from seeds is an interesting and exciting activity. If everything is done according to the rules, it will be possible to grow an amazing southern liana - the most beautiful in the world!
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planting and care in the open field, growing from seeds, photo
Author: Elena N. https://floristics.info/en/index.php?option=com_contact&view=contact&id=19 Category: Garden plants Reissued: Last edit:
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- Planting and Caring for Glycinia
- Botanical Description
- Glycinia Raising
- Conditioning Conditions
- Care for seedlings
- when to plant 9000 9001 behind wisteria in the garden
- Care instructions
- Propagation of wisteria
- Pests and diseases
- Types and varieties
- Chinese wisteria (Wisteria chinensis)
- Glicene is plentifully flowering, or multi -flowered (Wisteria Floribunda)
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Planting and caring for wisteria
- Planting: sowing seeds in the ground - in early spring, for seedlings - in December, planting seedlings in the ground - in May.
- Flowering: late March to late summer.
- Lighting: bright sun in the first half of the day, then diffused light or partial shade.
- Soil: nutritious, well-drained, slightly alkaline.
- Watering: from spring to late summer - moderate: the soil in the near-stem circle should be slightly damp all the time, and from mid-September, watering is gradually reduced.
- Top dressing: during the growing season once a week alternately with mineral and organic solutions.
- Pruning: in summer to maintain the shape of the bush.
- Propagation: sometimes by seeds, but more often by cuttings.
- Pests: clover mites, aphids.
- Diseases: chlorosis.
Read more about the cultivation of wisteria below
The wisteria plant in nature is a woody deciduous vine with drooping branches, reaching 15-18 meters in height. The leaves of wisteria are imparipinnate, pubescent when young, up to 30 cm long, with the number of leaves from 7 to 13. Fragrant purple, lilac or white flowers are collected in drooping brushes up to 30 cm long. Wisteria blooms in spring, at the end of March and can bloom throughout the summer.
The wisteria tree is in great demand in landscape design, it is grown in various forms - both as a liana wrapping around the walls of an arbor or a fence frame, and as a standard tree. Wisteria is also grown at home in a container way in the form of a tree, but still homemade wisteria is not as common as garden wisteria, so let's talk about growing wisteria in the garden.
Growing wisteria from seeds
Wisteria seeds are planted in late November or early December. Wisteria seeds are sown on the surface of a soil mixture consisting of leafy soil (four parts), soddy soil and sand (one part each), sprinkled with a thin layer of sand on top, sprayed with water from a spray bottle and, having covered the container with glass to create a greenhouse effect, put in a dark warm (22-25 ºС) place, keeping the soil slightly moist all the time. Wisteria sprouts from seeds in 3-4 weeks, and after another week and a half, it will be possible to transfer seedlings to the light by organizing protection from direct sunlight.
When the seedlings have two leaves, they are dived into separate containers together with a clod of earth on the roots and watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
Care of seedlings
Seedlings dived into individual containers must be accustomed to the environment in which they will live. To do this, they need to be taken out for a couple of hours a day to an unheated part of the house or kept under an ajar window, provided that there is no draft in the room.
Wisteria seeds can be sown directly into the open ground in early spring, then seedlings grow adapted to the environment and subsequently please with their endurance.
When to plant
Plant wisteria in the spring after the last frost has passed. All types of garden wisteria are cold-resistant, but it is better not to expose young plants to the risk of frostbite. Before planting wisteria, it is necessary to determine in which area it will grow better - wisteria is not an annual, and if you are interested in the quality of flowering, then keep in mind that it should be in the sun for half a day, so choose the most sunny and protected from gusts of wind, the soil is nutritious, well-drained and slightly alkaline.
How to plant
Wisteria seedlings are transplanted into pits 60x60x50 cm in size, having previously applied mineral fertilizers to the soil in the area for digging at the rate of 25-30 g per square meter of planting area. Be prepared for the fact that wisteria will not show signs of life for some time - it grows for a long time, and in the first years it forms only long thin shoots. In general, you can see beautiful flowers of wisteria grown from seeds only after 4-5, or even after 10 years.
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Care of wisteria in the garden
From spring to late summer, wisteria requires moderate watering so that the soil under it is always slightly moist, but never wet. If the spring is without rain, then you will have to water more diligently, because the buds may crumble, and you will not see the flowers for which the plant was planted. From mid-September, watering is gradually reduced.
In order for wisteria to bloom on time and abundantly, it is fed once a week during the active growing season, alternating liquid mineral fertilizers (Kemira-lux, for example) with organic ones (mullein infusion in a ratio of 1:20). It is useful to pour wisteria with chalk water once a season (100 g of chalk per bucket of water). When the flowers begin to fade, remove the faded inflorescences. In addition, you will have to cut dry branches, tie up and guide the shoots so that they do not fall and grow in the right direction.
Before the onset of winter, you need to spud the rosette high, remove the vine from the supports and lay it on the near-trunk circle, as is done with climbing roses, preparing them for wintering, and then sprinkle with dry leaves and cover with spunbond or lutrasil. You can not do all this, but if there is no snow in winter, the wisteria may freeze.
When does wisteria bloom? Chinese wisteria blooms at the age of three, Japanese - at the age of ten, so wisteria is a plant for those who know how to wait. Chinese wisteria blooms from April, with all buds opening at the same time. Wisteria blooms profusely from May to June. Make sure that there is no excess nitrogen in the soil, otherwise the wisteria will grow green, but will not bloom.
Pruning wisteria to stimulate flowering and to form the plant. To form a standard tree, one strong shoot is chosen, and the rest are removed. If you grow wisteria as a climbing plant, then it is advisable to remove the abundantly growing side shoots so that wisteria does not expend energy on overgrowing greens, but directs them to the formation of buds.
Pruning wisteria in spring consists of removing young shoots sticking out so that their foliage does not hide flower clusters from view during flowering. In addition, a young lateral annual branch of wisteria can produce an inflorescence this year only if you shorten it to 30 cm.
Formative pruning of the plant is carried out in summer: lateral shoots are cut off by 20-40 cm, and at the very end of summer by another 10-20 cm. However, try not to get carried away with the process, otherwise you may deprive yourself of the pleasure of seeing the lush flowering of wisteria.
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Propagation of wisteria
We have already described in this article the propagation of wisteria by seed. It is worth adding that many of the germinated and even grown seedlings may never produce flowers - no one knows why this happens. But we have repeatedly told readers that propagation by seeds is unreliable and it is much better to use vegetative methods of reproduction.
Wisteria is most easily propagated by layering. To do this, in the spring, an annual shoot is selected, an oblique incision is made in the middle of its length, the shoot is bent and laid with an incision on a pot with a clay-soddy substrate, the outlet is fixed in this position and added dropwise, leaving the top of the shoot free. It will be possible to separate the rooted cuttings from the mother plant only next spring.
In various publications they write that it is possible to propagate wisteria by cuttings or grafting on the roots, but I don’t know anyone who actually succeeded, but the layering took root with me.
Pests and diseases
Wisteria is sometimes attacked by aphids or clover mites. Aphids are destroyed by an insecticide, and mites by an acaricidal preparation. If wisteria grows in alkaline soil, it can be affected by chlorosis, from which its leaves turn yellow. In the fight against the disease, root dressing of wisteria with iron salts is used.
Species and varieties
Chinese wisteria (Wisteria chinensis)
Densely leafy liana up to 15-20 m in height. The leaves are pinnate, large, at first pubescent, but eventually becoming smooth. Flowers in loose racemes up to 30 cm long, light lilac. The fruit is a bean up to 15 cm long. This species has a garden form with white flowers (f. alba) and a form with double flowers (f. plena).
Wisteria profusely flowering, or multi-flowered (Wisteria floribunda)
It is also colloquially “Japanese”, because it comes from the Japanese islands - it differs from Chinese in smaller sizes (only 8-10 m in length), larger leaves up to 40 cm in length and the number of leaves up to 19, a large number of inflorescences on the plant, as well as their larger sizes - up to 50 cm in length. The flowers themselves are smaller than those of Chinese wisteria, of a violet-blue hue, bloom gradually, starting from the base of the brush. This species is more cold-resistant than Chinese wisteria. There are garden forms with white, pink, purple double flowers and a variegated form with variegated leaves.
In addition to these two most popular species, there are also beautiful wisteria (Wisteria venusta), shrub wisteria (Wisteria frutescens) and large wisteria (Wisteria macrostachys), on the basis of which Blue Moon wisteria was bred by American gardeners from Minnesota, capable of wintering in the garden even without cover.
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