How to hang a tree swing with rope

How to Hang a Swing From a Tree in 5 Easy Steps


Want a freewheeling summer in your backyard? Add a swing.

by Sal Vaglica

There might be no more carefree activity for a kid than yanking back on the ropes of a swing and letting it rip. Before the training wheels come off the bike, and well before a driver’s license, it’s that first taste of freedom. And while backyard swing sets — like the arms race of the ’80s — are getting bigger, more elaborate, and expensive, they don’t have to be. For less than $100 you can hang a swing from a tree in your yard. What that swing looks like — a traditional plank, a freewheeling disc seat, or the iconic tire — is up to you. It can be intimidating for newbie DIYers to tackle a tree swing. After all, a lot is riding on it should a child have an accident. But the process isn’t difficult. Read on to find out how to hang a swing from a tree — and prepare the yard for a summer of (safe) memories.

Step 1: Find the right tree

Look for a mature tree that looks healthy, meaning the canopy is filled with leaves, there are no cracks or hollows in the trunk, and it’s free of rot or pests. If you’re unsure about the health of the tree, have a licensed arborist give an opinion. Stick to tough hardwood trees like oaks, maples, and sycamores. Avoid evergreen and fruiting trees, which tend to be less sturdy, with limbs that snap easily.

Now look at the space around the tree. You’ll want about 3 feet of room between the swing and the trunk, but not so close to the end of a branch that the weight causes sagging. The path of a two-rope swing is more predictable, so you can install them closer to the tree. Hanging a disc or tire from a single rope? The movement on those is a bit more unpredictable (and fun!), so keep them further away from the trunk. The area under the swing should be level and free of big rocks, tree roots, or other debris that could cause a tripping hazard. Ideally, you want grass or a patch where you can add a 2-to-3-inch-thick layer of wood mulch for a soft landing.

Step 2: Pick the right branch

Play it safe by picking a branch that is 8 to 10 inches in diameter, which would be strong enough to hold an adult. The best branches are mostly horizontal. A steeply angled branch will encourage the seat to twist with a two-rope swing, which you don’t want. But with a single rope disc or tire swing, that might be exactly what you want. Examine the branch for signs of decay: missing bark, areas without leaves, cracks, and rot. Pick a limb that is between 10 and 15 feet off the ground. The higher the branch, the longer the rope and the greater the range of motion, and while that can feel like a lot of fun, it can be unsafe above 15 feet.

Step 3: Get the best rope

Synthetic rope is inexpensive, readily available, strong, and durable, so you don’t need to use metal chains, which will damage the branch if you simply toss it over the limb. You’ll have options at the hardware store, but go with polyester that’s at least ¾-inch in diameter. You want to overengineer the swing to carry an adult’s weight, so when in doubt, go thicker. Natural ropes can absorb water over time and will need to be replaced every few years, so skip those.

Step 4: Make the best connection

There are a few ways to attach the rope to the tree. What you don’t want to do is toss the rope over the limb, and tie it tightly around the branch. As that limb grows the rope will strangle it and eventually kill it. You want to limit the friction of the rope as the swing move back and forth. A simple fix is slipping lengths of rubber tubing over the ropes so they sit on the top of the limb. Then tie a slip knot so the rope’s opening expands as the tree grows and the tubing helps reduce friction.

If the limb’s within easy reach and you can work off a ladder, considering using eyebolts for a more permanent installation. Pick bolts that are at least 5/8-inch in diameter, longer than the branch is thick, made of stainless or galvanized steel, and with an eye that’s larger than your rope. You’ll need a drill/driver with a bit that’s longer than the branch is thick. Measure the distance between the holes on the swing’s seat and drill holes for the bolt vertically through the center of the limb. Make sure the holes are aligned with one another so the swing moves without twisting. Thread the bolts through the hole, and top them off with a stainless-steel washer, and a nut. Then slip the rope through the eyebolt or, if you plan to remove the swing seasonally, connect the rope to the eyebolt using a carabiner clip rated for heavy weight so the seat unclips easily. Use a thread lock inside the nut so it won’t work itself off the bolt. Putting holes in the tree sounds harsh, but a healthy tree should heal itself around the wound and it will reduce friction.

Another way to hang a swing from a tree, if you’re not comfortable with tools, is to use hanging straps that go over the limb. These reduce friction on the branch and connect to your rope easily. Whichever connection you use, make sure the rope is tied off to the seat and the branch securely. And expect to inspect the tree every so often — it can be hard from the ground to tell if the branch is under stress or the rope is wearing thin.

Step 5: Set the swing height

Adjusting the height of the swing is relatively easy by tweaking the knot at the seat. Plan to adjust the swing’s height at the end of the installation so you can fix out-of-level issues with a two-rope seat. A level, or nearly level, seat means a more predictable path for the swing, which is what you want on a two-rope design (though less important with a single disc or tire). Consider the height of the swing’s rider when fixing the height off the ground. For preschool-age children, the seat should be at least 12 inches from the ground and, for school-aged kids, at least 16 inches. For younger kids who need help getting in and out, keep the swing 24 inches off the ground. Once you have the right height, use a level on the seat to adjust the knots until the swing is level.

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How to properly hang a tree swing

Photos courtesy of Raj Chaudhry

Tree swings are funny things. They don’t travel far, but they can carry us way back to simpler times. Even when we’re not the riders, swings take us back to our childhoods. And we want our children to know that such simple joys exist. But for them to be carefree, we need to worry a little for them, to let them experience the small scrapes while protecting them from the big ones. A tree swing is a joy, but it requires care and thought as much as it needs rope and a strong limb. Here’s what I know about hanging one.

Pick the right tree

The right tree for a swing is a straight, strong, mature, and healthy hardwood. Some species are better than others. Good prospects include beech, oak, and maple. Others, like black willow, poplar and birch, are relatively weak and brittle.

Photo 1: Mature hardwoods with open crowns have the sort of thick horizontal limbs needed for a two-rope swing. It’s far easier to find a suitable limb for a single-rope disc swing.

A healthy tree will have no signs of rot or fungus; no cracks, hollows, or wood boring insects. It will have green, unspotted, and properly shaped leaves; a balanced, even distribution of limbs; and a minimum of dead or broken branches. Thump the tree with something solid and listen for the hollow sound of decay.

While you’re evaluating, check overhead for any broken limbs hung up in the branches, called widowmakers by loggers, or any other threats from above over any portion of the play area. These will have to be removed to make the site safe.

Choose the right limb

The perfect limb for a tree swing depends, in part, on the type of swing you’re hanging. For a traditional two-rope swing, it’s important that the limb be horizontal. For a single-rope disc swing, the limb need not be level. Look for a limb at least 8” in diameter.

The limb must be healthy. As with the tree as a whole, symptoms of compromise might include cracks or holes, fungus, missing bark, dead or broken branches or limb tips, and sick or missing leaves. Pay particular attention to the union of the limb and trunk for cracks or signs of weak attachment, including crowding by other limbs. Even after the swing is hung, keep an eye on the tree and limb for changes in their health.

Photo 2: Despite the green foliage, this old maple limb is a disaster waiting to happen. Compromised limbs might have missing bark, dead or broken branches or limb tips, cracks or holes, fungus, sick or missing leaves, and staining. This limb exhibits several of the warning signs. Best to move on to a healthier tree, well away from this one.

Higher is better, within reason. A limb 20 feet up will create a swing with a longer arc and a better rhythm than a limb only 10 feet off the ground. Of course, this objective needs to be tempered by the imperative to work safely, with confidence, and within your own abilities. Something in between will work just fine. Hiring a tree specialist is always an option.

If a limb looks good from the ground, then inspect it up close and from above.

Consider the landing zone

The landing zone for a tree swing should be clear of hazards and relatively soft. Natural surfaces usually provide sufficient cushion. But rocks, stumps, and exposed roots could pose risks. Intruding branches should be trimmed, and the landing area cleared, both behind and well ahead of the swing’s maximum travel.

Photo 3: Rocks and exposed roots, like this, create the sorts of trip hazards and hard landing spots you want to avoid or address when selecting a swing site.

Sloping ground can present its own problems. As grade drops away, the potential fall height from the swing also increases. So does the chance the rider will stumble on dismount or tumble after a fall. Level is safer.

In general, you want to hang the swing as close as possible to the trunk without creating a collision hazard with the tree. The limb is a long lever. The further from the trunk you place the swing, the greater the stress you place on the limb union. Typically, you will want the swing 3 feet to 5 feet from the trunk. A two-rope swing is a large pendulum, with a regular path, which means it can be hung nearer the tree, at the lower end of the range. A single-rope swing has more freedom of movement, which means you will need more distance from the trunk.

Select the right type of rope

Safe swings require strong rope. Many types are suitable, but a few stand out. Here’s how the four most common rope varieties stack up:

Polyester. From a performance standpoint, polyester is probably the all-around best rope for a tree swing. It is one of the strongest, at more than twice the strength of natural manila. It stretches very little, has excellent natural UV and weather resistance, is supple, and holds knots well. It is commonly available in white or black, but if you look, you can find it from boat rope suppliers in manila tan.

Photo 4: The basics for clean cuts in rope: a utility knife with fresh blade, electrical tape and a surface you don’t mind scratching. Tape the rope and cut in the middle.

Manila. Natural manila rope works for a tree swing but has some significant downsides. Manila is soft in the hand, holds knots extremely well, stretches little, has a great traditional look, is reasonably priced and, being made from plant fibre, is biodegradable. But it is only moderately strong, a third less than polypropylene and less than half as strong as polyester. And cycles of wetting and drying will cause it to shrink some.

Moreover, because it is a natural product, it is not unusual to have some variability in diameter from rope to rope. You may find a 1” manila rope may not fit in a 1” hole. (Ask me how I know.) But easily its biggest liability is the rate at which it decays. If you use it, understand that it will degrade and lose strength fairly quickly when exposed to sunlight and weather. You will need to inspect and replace it regularly, perhaps at the beginning of each swinging season. A smaller inconvenience has to do with fraying. All ropes need some sort of intervention to prevent the ends from unravelling. But whereas the ends of synthetic rope are easily fused with heat, natural rope generally requires string wrappings, called whipping. As a traditional craft, whippings are fun to learn and practice, and they look great, but they also take work.

Photo 5: Natural rope generally requires a string whipping to keep the ends from fraying. This style is called palm and needle. It’s attractive, doesn’t add much in the way of girth, and is less prone to slipping than surface whipping.

Polypropylene. The most common general purpose rope — found in waterski tow ropes and the like — polypropylene is inexpensive and stronger than natural manila. If you purchased a tree swing, odds are this is the rope it came with. It is not as strong as polyester or nylon, but plenty strong for a tree swing. It is a little stiffer than other synthetics, which means it is harder to knot well and less pleasing in the hand. Unlike polyester, it is not naturally resistant to ultraviolet radiation; therefore it requires additives during manufacture to boost its UV resistance. If you use a polypropylene rope, make sure it is the UV resistant type. On the plus side, it’s easy to find polypropylene rope with the look of manila.

Nylon. The strongest common rope, nylon has many of the attributes that make polyester a great material for a tree swing, with one notable exception: It is very stretchy. This means, for one thing, the empty swing will need to hang higher, which may make it harder to board safely. It also is slightly less UV resistant than polyester, and loses some strength when wet. For me, the elasticity is the deal breaker.

Photo 6: One good method for whipping synthetic rope involves melting the end with a small butane torch or lighter, which fuses the fibres.

Choose the right rope size

Usually, swing ropes will range from 5/8” to just over 1”. For a two-rope swing, 5/8” synthetic ropes might be plenty. If using natural rope, which is weaker, you may find 3/4” more suitable. Likewise, for a single-rope swing, you may want a 3/4” synthetic rope or a 1” manila rope. For me, 3/4” twisted polyester, which has a safe working load north of 1,000 pounds, is the ideal all-around swing rope.

Strength is not the only factor in choosing a rope diameter. Thicker ropes provide a better grip and are usually more comfortable than thin ropes. For the same reason, twisted ropes usually work better for rope swings than braided ropes. And unlike braided ropes, twisted ropes can be spliced, if you have the skills, which is a great way to make strong eyes and loops. Owing in part to the simplicity of manufacture, twisted ropes are less expensive.

Attach the swing in a way that protects the tree and rider

When it comes to hanging your swing, you have several options. Here’s what you don’t want to do: Tie a swing rope tightly around a limb. Tree limbs need room to grow. A tight rope around the limb will eventually strangle it. In the meantime, abrasion opens the tree to disease and infestation.

If you hire an arborist to hang your tree swing, odds are they will use eye bolts through the limb. Although this sounds destructive, the tree will heal around the bolts. There are simpler methods, but this one certainly avoids the issues of direct rope attachment.

Here’s how the eye bolt method works:

For each rope you are hanging, you’ll need one galvanized or stainless steel shouldered eye bolt, 5/8” in diameter or larger, one matching dock or fender washer, and two nuts. The bolts need to be long enough to protrude through the top of the limb and accommodate one thick washer and both nuts. To install, you bore a hole for a one-rope swing, or holes, properly spaced for your two-rope swing, through the limb. Then slide a bolt into place from underneath. Add a washer on top, and tighten a nut against it. Tighten the second nut on top of the first. This locks the nuts together and prevents them from working loose. Repeat as necessary. As an alternative, you can use a single nut on each bolt, with a liquid thread locker to keep it in place.

A properly rated locking carabiner, or lifting rated quick link, is added to each eye. And the swing rope attaches to the carabiner. The right way to do this is to splice an eye in the end of the rope and add a stainless steel or galvanized rope eye to prevent wear to the rope. If you have the means and the skills, no commitment issues, and want a truly lasting installation, the bolt method might be for you.

On the other end of the spectrum, some people tie the swing rope directly to the limb, but employ a loop made with a secure slip knot like a running bowline. Under load, the loop chokes up, but when the swing is empty, the loop relaxes. Because the loop can open freely, it will never girdle the branch. It’s the right idea, with a few potential flaws. One is that the rope is still relatively thin, which means the load and friction are concentrated. Over time, it might still cut into the bark and damage the delicate tissue underneath. Likewise, while the rope is abrading the tree, the tree is returning the favour. It will be hard to tell from the ground how fast the rope is wearing. As time passes, you may need to get up in the tree to inspect it. You can improve this system by using a short split length of hose around the rope where it passes over the limb. Despite some drawbacks, the slip-knot method is simple and economical.

Photo 7: One swing-hanging system that protects tree and rider relies on a round lifting sling, hung in a choker configuration, with one eye through the other. The swing rope attaches to the sling with a figure 8 follow through knot, which has a backup knot tight against it. The soft, wide sling won’t cut into the limb, and the loop is free to open as the limb grows.

The third method is fairly simple and the one I favour. It uses straps looped around the limb, which are wide enough to keep from cutting into the bark but also free to open as the limb grows. It’s not an original idea. Commercial swing straps are available online.

I prefer to buy round lifting slings, with an eye in each end, from companies that supply industries involved in rigging, hauling and heavy lifting. The quality of these continuous slings is top notch; they are available in a variety of lengths; I can get them in polyester, which I prefer; and I can usually find them in green, which blends nicely with the foliage. Nominally, they are 2” straps, but their scuff resistant covers make them closer to 3” wide. As used here, each sling is rated to support more than 4,000 pounds.

Generally, you’ll want to choose either a 3’ or 4’ length. An 8” diameter limb is about 25” around, which gives you about the right margin with a 3’ strap. A 10” limb is about 31” in circumference, so 4’ is a better fit, with plenty of room to grow.

The sling encircles the limb in what is called a choker configuration, that is with one eye through the other. It tightens when the swing has a passenger, and loosens when the swing is empty. As the limb grows, the loop opens.

Attach the swing rope to the eye with a secure knot. I use a figure 8 follow through knot, which has a backup knot tight against it. If you’ve ever done any climbing, you’ll know the knot, sometimes by the name trace-eight. If not, you can look it up on any of the many excellent knot tying websites. Practice before you need to execute it at height.

The same figure 8 follow through is just as good for tying the loops that attach the seat of the two-rope swing. Another good loop knot for the seat is the double bowline, again with some sort of stopper knot as insurance. I prefer to tie the seat knots first and make all length adjustments from the tree.

For a single-rope swing, the disc seat sits on a bulky stopper knot. One that works is a double overhand, which is level across the top and super easy to tie.

Photo 8: The double overhand knot is easy to tie and makes an effective stopper knot for a single- rope swing. The white polyester rope is a good match for a whimsical, colourful or contemporary swing.

Consider the height of the rider

How high should you hang the swing? The right height for a tree swing depends on the size of the person or people who will be using it most.

The swing sits higher when it is empty. It also sits higher when the rope is new, before everything has stretched out and tightened up. In general, about 24” is a good starting point for an unloaded swing, and a good target ground clearance when the swing is under load is about half of that. Adjust from there. The swing should be easy to climb on and step off. It helps to have the primary swingers on hand when you’re hanging it. It also helps to have assistance on the ground. This way, one person can measure the swing height, and for a two-rope swing use a level, while the other adjusts the rope or ropes from the tree.

Photo 9: A two-rope swing needs to be fairly level. A beam or torpedo level can get you close. It helps to have one person on the ground, to steady the swing and check the height and level, and another in the tree, adjusting the ropes as needed.

Work safely

Working at height carries substantial risks. For many do it yourselfers, the obvious answer for reaching a tall limb is a big extension ladder. It’s one of the more hazardous ways to do the job. Now, that doesn’t mean you can’t. But if you go this route, know the risks and take extra care.

Photo 10: Safety gear is cheap insurance when working at height. A dedicated safety rope with fall- arresting rope grab and lanyard (left) attaches to the D ring on the back of a standard safety harness. Other useful items include a climbing helmet, centre top; and a throw line and beanbag for getting your safety rope over a high limb from the ground, top right. If you are using climbing gear to get into the tree, mechanical ascenders and descenders make general purpose safety systems like these redundant.

Make sure that the ladder has four solid contact points, and that the ladder extends several feet past the limb you will work on. Set it at the proper angle, 75 degrees, often depicted on the side of the ladder. Take pains to ensure it is stable. Sometimes you can drive stakes, like sections of rebar, into the ground by the feet and lash the legs to them so they can’t move. Similarly, you can lash the top of the ladder to the limb. Make sure that there is nothing in the tree above you that can shake loose and knock you off.

If professional tree care workers ever use ladders to get into a tree, they tend to be sectional ladders, chained to the trunk, with stand offs between trunk and ladder to provide toe room. Lighter, less expensive versions are made for hunters to climb into their tree stands.

Even with a stable ladder, falls can happen. A safety line is worth considering, as is a climbing helmet. A basic fall arrest system might include a safety line with a rope grab. The rope grab slides along the rope as you climb but will engage to stop you if you fall. It is attached via a short lanyard to the back D ring of an appropriate safety harness. It won’t help much as you climb a ladder, but it might at height. Once in the tree, it also is easy to flip a sling around a sturdy nearby branch and tether to it. There are many options. No time spent learning about safety equipment and how to use it is wasted.

One way to get a rope into a tree is to use a throw line. It consists of a long thin line with a weighted bag on the end. The line is tossed over a strong limb or crotch above the highest point you’ll be working. Then the rope is tied to the line and pulled over. Tie one end of the rope securely around the tree. The other must be long enough to reach over the anchor point and all the way to the ground. Clip onto it and you’re off.

The best, safest way to climb into a tree is the way professionals do. With rope. If you’ve done any climbing, even at the gym, you’ve probably got the basic skills and maybe even the equipment for a simple operation like hanging a tree swing. They are fun, useful skills to learn and have. Today, innovations like foot ascenders let you use your leg muscles to zip up the rope, while braking descenders let you glide back down to earth. Arborist harnesses are extra stout and built so that you can hang and work comfortably.

After you’ve hung your swing, test everything. Start cautiously, but make sure you give everything a rigorous workout. Pull hard on the ropes in all directions. Press down on the swing. Sit on it. Check your knots. Take a test drive. Watch how the limb reacts. Listen as well. If you notice significant bowing of the limb when the swing is in use, or unusual shaking, you may need to move the anchor point closer to the trunk or select a new limb. Make sure the swing has all the clearance from the tree you expected. Think about the dumb things you did on a swing as a kid, and assume the worst about today’s children. Check the knots again for any signs of slippage. When everything checks out, it’s play time. Call the kids over. Or maybe not.

Photo 11: For a traditional swing, a natural finish wood seat pairs well with synthetic manila rope. Here, the rope is 3/4” polypropylene, and the loops are created with double bowline knots. Overhand stopper knots in the tails ensure they can’t pull through. Another solid choice is the figure 8 follow through knot with a backup knot around the standing end of the rope.

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how to make them yourself

Rope swings are easy to make with your own hands. Such an enterprise is a great idea if you have a fairly massive tree growing on your site. Children, and sometimes adults, will not mind swinging on a swing in fine weather!


  • 1 Rope Swing: Materials Needed
  • 2 Step 1: Swing Seat
  • 3 Step 2: Add Mounts
  • 4 Step 3: Holes for Rope
  • 5 Step 4: Add Loops to Swing0008
  • 6 Step 5: Attach the rope to the seat
  • 7 Step 6: Attach the rope to the board
  • 8 Step 7: Thread the rope through the board. The swing is ready!

Rope swing: materials needed

  1. 35×90 mm board for the seat.
  2. Plank 35×50×600 mm for mounting from above.
  3. Strong rope.
  4. Clamps or just heavy objects.
  5. Drill and drill of sufficient diameter to allow the rope to pass through the hole.
  6. Wood screws.
  7. Screw carabiners.
  8. Sandpaper.
  9. Paint.

Step 1: Swing Seat

Saw two long boards 60 mm long and two short boards 18 mm long from a 35x90 mm board. Lay two long boards next to each other and glue them together. Then take two short planks and glue them across the long ones, as shown in figure number 2. When doing this, make sure that their edges are flush with the ends of the long planks. Fix the boards with clamps or press down with heavy objects from above. Check that the parts are even.

Step 2: Add Fasteners

Wait approximately 20 minutes for the adhesive to dry. Then drill holes in each of the four corners of the short plank. Be careful not to drill holes too close to the edge. Do the same with the second short plank. Insert self tapping screws. See the process in picture 3.

Step 3: Holes for the rope

Drill two holes on each side of the seat as shown in picture 4. As in the previous steps, make sure that the holes are not too close to the edge , and the wood did not exfoliate. Sand the surface and paint the swing or varnish if desired.

Step 4: add loops to the swing

Cut two pieces of rope about 1. 5 meters long to make loops to the swing. Tie one end of the rope with a double knot. Then thread it from bottom to top into one hole in the seat, and then from top to bottom into the second hole on the same side. Tie the other end in the same double knot. Do the same for the other side of the seat. Figure 5 will help you complete this step.

Step 5: attach the rope to the seat

Fold the rest of your rope in half. In each half you should have about 45 cm. This is an average value. The specific size depends on the height of your tree and the location of the branch on which the swing will hang. Tie a loop at one end of the rope and attach it to the loop on the seat as shown in Figure 6. Do the same with the second rope.

See also: How to choose a place for a playground on your site

Step 6: rope attachment board

Drill two holes in a board 35x50x600mm. The holes should be placed symmetrically about the center of the plank and exactly in the middle along its width, as in Figure 7.

Step 7: thread the rope through the plank. The swing is ready!

At a distance of about 150 cm from the seat, tie a knot on each rope. Then thread the free ends of the ropes through the holes in the boards, as in picture 8. Tie each rope to a tree branch using a tent knot (also called molting). Check all the bindings on your own weight before letting someone swing.

The rope swing is ready! It is very pleasant to swing on such a swing, especially made with your own hands. In addition, according to research, such a pastime significantly reduces stress. Another reason to try making something like this!

Even if you don't have such a powerful tree in your garden (or maybe you don't have a garden at all), you can make such a swing in your house! For example, you can hang them in the nursery by installing an additional beam to secure them. Many hours of fun are guaranteed for your children (and you)!

If you want to learn more about wood crafts and the tools used for this, be sure to check out the material at this link.

The article was translated and finalized from the site

how to make it for a summer residence, fix and hang it, photo

Practically every parent made a rope swing with their own hands for a child. The popularity of the design is due to the ease of manufacture. The attraction consists of a piece of board suspended by ropes from a tree branch. However, the variety of riding devices is not limited to this. Rope can be used to make other types of swings. 9Ol000

  • How to hang a rope on a swing
  • How to hang a swing on ropes
  • Helpful tips
  • Conclusion
  • Pros and cons of rope swings

    Ease of manufacture is the main, but not the only, advantage of rope swings.

    The following points stand out from the advantages:

    1. The versatility of the swing is confirmed by the area of ​​use. The rope product is compact, takes up little space, and is light. It can be hung anywhere: street, house, terrace, indoor pavilion. For the premises, a swing is convenient, where instead of a wooden board a cloth seat is made. During swinging, the possibility of damage to furniture or wall cladding from accidental impact is excluded.
    2. Long service life due to the absence of complex components. The swing does not have ball bearings that can jam from heavy use. The product will last as long as the quality of the rope for hanging is chosen.
    3. Rope attraction is profitable from an economic point of view. When making your own hands, you will not need expensive material for support racks. Small expenses will go only for the purchase of a rope.
    4. In terms of ease of making with your own hands, a rope attraction comes first. Even a woman can make a design.
    5. Environmentally friendly rope construction is an important factor. The absence of paints, protective impregnations, chemical materials will positively affect the health of the child.
    6. The design can be adjusted to your liking. Craftsmen who weave rope swings with their own hands create exclusive masterpieces. Products are decorated with ribbons, colored laces, beads.

    Faults are hard to find. The disadvantages include the impossibility of a year-round stay of a swing in the open air. From frost, snow, rain and sun, the ropes gradually fade. However, this issue is quickly resolved. The swing is easy to remove and bring into the barn, where they take up little space.

    Types of hanging rope swings

    The principle of the device, operation and operation of rope attractions is the same. The swing consists of a seat suspended by ropes on a support. The attraction works from swinging due to the rhythmic movements of the body. However, the design of the seat itself divided the hanging rope swing for summer cottages into several types:

    Bench is a well-known entertainment since childhood. The seat is a piece of board 40-50 cm wide. Ropes are attached to its edges. The structure is usually suspended from a high branch of a tree. In the modern version, rope benches are produced even by some manufacturers. The seats are made of plastic.

    Tip! When making a children's attraction with your own hands, it is best to consider the option of a bench. It is easy for a summer resident to make such a swing in a couple of hours.

    The armchair is a complicated but comfortable rope structure. Due to the presence of the back and armrests, it is comfortable to sit. The back does not get tired. You can ride on a swing for a long time, just sit and relax, read a book. The armchair is made by hand single or wide in the form of a bench, designed for 2-5 people. The material of manufacture is often wood. Factory-made rope chairs are found in plastic. Such children's rope swings are designed for a small load.

    Tip! A popular decor element of a rope bench is pillows or mattresses specially tailored to the size of the seat.

    A rope bed is the dream of every summer resident. The base is a large platform where you can ride sitting and lying down. Often these are wickerwork from a vine or the same rope. As a finished base, two interconnected pallets are sometimes used. To sleep or just lie down, you definitely need a mattress. The bed is made by hand with sides or just a flat area.

    Cocoon is a special type of rope swing. The seat is made in the form of a bag with a window. Cocoons are often hung with a single rope, which allows them to spin around their axis. The shape of the bag is indefinite, or it is given the image of an onion, a drop of water, or another figure. To do this, a rigid frame is used in the cocoon. For example, a wire base is braided with a rope or sheathed with a cloth. Factory-made rope cocoons are found in plastic. They are designed for children.

    There is a circle between a cocoon and a bed. A metal hoop is used for the swing seat. Its diameter determines how many people can fit at a time. The large circle can be used as a bed. So that you can sit or lie on the swing, the hoop is braided with a rope. Create a pattern resembling a web. It is inconvenient to ride for a long time without a backing on the braid itself. Ropes press the body, crash. It is advisable to put an old blanket on the circle or sew a mattress to size.

    Tip! The simplest children's swing for giving on ropes in the shape of a circle is easy to make from a car tire. With the help of eye bolts, the wheel is horizontally attached to ropes suspended from a tree.

    All considered types of swings are divided into two main groups: outdoor and indoor. There is no particular difference between them. It's just that the method of fixing to the support changes from the place of use.

    What you need to make a hanging swing on a rope

    Before you make a rope attraction with your own hands, you need to think about how to attach it. Usually, carabiners, springs, eyebolts are used for such swings. The choice of fasteners depends on the place of suspension, the type of support, the expected load. For example, if a tree branch acts as a support, it is optimal to use carabiners. It is more convenient to hang the swing with eyebolts to a metal or wooden crossbar specially made with your own hands. The spring can be used indoors, but it will withstand a small load. Such a knot is designed for children's swings on ropes, most often factory-made.

    Important! Rope swings can simply be tied to a tree branch or a crossbar. However, when swinging, friction of the ropes occurs, which affects their rapid wear.

    For other hanging materials, you will need a strong rope. The length depends on the height of the support. Usually 7 m of rope is enough for a swing. The material for the seat depends on its execution. If you decide to make a swing out of a rope and a board, then, naturally, you need a piece of treated lumber 60 cm long, 20 cm wide, 5 cm thick. A metal hoop is needed for a circle. Making a bed with your own hands will require the preparation of pallets, lumber or vines for weaving the base.

    In addition to the suspension unit to the support, it is important to think over the fastening of the rope swing on the seat itself. You can simply tie it with ropes, use the same carabiners or eyebolts.

    Drawings of a children's swing on a rope

    Which rope is better to use for a swing

    To hang a swing, you need a strong rope that can withstand heavy loads. In addition, it should not stretch, crack at sharp bends, or unravel in separate threads. Climbing rope or sisal cable is best. The optimal thickness is 13 mm.

    Rope ends may fray. To prevent this from happening, they are tied with twine. Various options for strapping schemes are shown in the photo.

    How to make a rope swing with your own hands

    The complexity of making a rope attraction depends on the type of design chosen. It will take 1-2 hours to hang a simple board, and a patterned weaving of a cocoon or a net for a circle will take a couple of days.

    In the video, an example of making a swing:

    How to attach a rope to a swing

    The assembly of any type of swing begins with the manufacture of the seat and fixing the ropes to it. The technology is based on the following steps:

    1. A seat is made from two pieces of round timber 70 cm long and 8-10 cm thick. Stepping back from the edge of 10 cm, the rope is passed between two logs, wrapped around each with one turn and tied with three knots. A similar action is performed at the second end of the seat. There should be a distance of 50 cm between two tied ropes.
    2. Do-it-yourself flexible swing seat is cut out of tarpaulin, rubberized fabric or other durable material. The length of the piece is 50-60 cm, the width is about 20 cm. Holes are made at both ends of the seat, carabiners are put on.
    3. To tie a do-it-yourself rope swing made of wood, you will need to drill two holes in the board. They are placed strictly against each other, stepping back from the edge of 5 cm. Eyebolts or ordinary threaded studs with an eye are used as a fastener. The bolts are inserted into the hole so that the loop is located on the working side of the seat. Fasteners are firmly tightened with nuts, placing washers under them. The ends of the ropes are tied with three knots to carabiners. Now it remains to connect the collapsible node. Carabiners cling to the swing seat by the ears of the bolts.
    4. The circle-shaped seat can simply be tied by hand with ropes to the hoop in four places. The inconvenience of such fastening is explained by the fact that the ropes will move out along the ring during intensive skiing. Ropes wear out quickly from friction. It is optimal to weld small loops in the form of ears to the steel hoop at the same distance from each other. The ring is braided with a net of rope. The hoop itself is wrapped with soft material. Each ear of the seat is hooked with a carabiner with a rope tied with three knots.
    5. Prefabricated plastic seats have holes in the body. Usually there are two of them on each side. To fix the seat, it is enough to stretch the ends of the ropes through the holes, tie into three knots. Sometimes the manufacturer provides special clamps. They look prettier, plus there is no need to tie knots.

    Each method of attaching the rope to the seat is simple and easy for anyone.

    How to hang a swing with ropes

    After we managed to fix the rope on the makeshift swing, it was time to hang the attraction on a support. It is optimal to make it with your own hands from a pipe, timber or logs. However, additional funds are needed for such support. Assembly will take a long time. Accurate drawings required.

    In the case of rope swings, a tall tree has always been the ideal support. A branch about 25 cm thick was chosen at a height of 2-3 m from the ground level. The swing was tied with a rope so that it was possible to push off the ground for swinging, but not to catch on it with your feet while riding.

    Important! A branch on a tree must be chosen so that other branches do not grow below that interfere with swinging.

    The problem of fasteners is not always the availability of a suitable branch. If it is not there, an artificial support is made on the tree with their own hands. The principle of fastening displays a photo of a swing on a rope, where a home-made branch is a beam or a log 3 m long and 13 cm thick. They should be on the same level, but with a small gap from each other. The normal height of the forks is 2.6 m from the ground. The support is placed so that a departure of at least 1 m is formed outside the tree trunk. Most of the support, and this is an average of 2 m, rests on forks.

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