How to keep banana trees over winter


How to Overwinter Banana Plants

Before we talk about how to overwinter banana plants, the first thing we need to get straight is that the banana tree (Musa spp.) is not actually a tree. It’s an herb! A rather sizeable herb.

Its “trunk” is actually a cylinder of tightly layered leaves called a pseudostem.

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The banana is an attractive herbaceous flowering plant that grows to a mature height of 12 to 18 feet tall. Its large leaves, purple flowers, and brightly colored fruit make a dramatic statement in the garden.

How to Overwinter Your Banana Tree

  • It’s a Tropical Plant
  • Keeping Your Banana Plant Alive
    • Container Growing
    • Cover It
    • Dig It Up

It’s a Tropical Plant

There are about 70 species of the genus Musa, and they are indigenous to tropical areas of India, Southeast Asia, and northern Australia.

They are now grown in more than 135 countries, mostly for their fruit, which is enjoyed around the world.

Given their native climate, it is unsurprising that banana plants are cold intolerant. They need mild temperatures in order to grow; their leaves will stop growing at around 55°F.

They will suffer leaf damage at 32°F, and their underground rhizomes will die at sustained temperatures of 22°F or lower.

Having said that, we would be remiss if we didn’t mention that there are indeed a few cold-tolerant varieties available.

For example, the ‘Japanese Fiber’ variety (M. basjoo) can withstand sub-zero temperatures. It’s hardy to Zone 5 or 6, and can be overwintered in colder areas by cutting it back and providing a protective mulch around the stem.

Nevertheless, most banana plants like it hot, and if you don’t live in USDA Hardiness Zone 9 or higher, you may wonder how you can add one of these tropical beauties to your landscape and keep it alive over winter.

Let’s learn more!

Keeping Your Banana Plant Alive

Here, we’ll offer three ways you can protect and preserve your banana plant over the winter months:

Container Growing

Perhaps the most obvious way to successfully overwinter a banana tree is to grow it in a container and bring it indoors when temperatures drop.

It is best to select a dwarf variety for container growing. A 15-foot “tree” in a pot would be a bit unwieldy!

Simply enjoy your potted plant on the patio or deck all summer, and then bring it indoors when outdoor temperatures begin to drop.

You have a couple options in terms of where you place it indoors.

If you’d like to adorn an empty corner of your living room, make sure it’s a sunny spot and be sure to keep the soil moist, but not soggy.

Provide humidity by misting the leaves via a squirt bottle filled with water.

Expect to see slow growth during this period.

If an attached garage or crawl space makes more sense for overwintering your container grown banana, begin preparing the plant by gradually reducing irrigation as the weather cools.

Before the first frost, cut the stem back to about six inches tall, and place it in a cool, dark place – approximately 40-50°F.

Water just enough so that the soil doesn’t separate from the sides of the container.

It will go dormant through the cold months, and you can take it outdoors again and start watering it properly once temperatures start to climb and all risk of frost has passed.

Cover It

If your plant is growing in the ground, one option for safely overwintering it is to protect it with thick layers of mulch.

The goal here is to protect the large rhizome at the base of the pseudostem, which is known as the “corm.” The corm has several growing points that will sprout new rhizomes – or “pups” – which can be transplanted.

Cut the plant back to about 4-6 inches above the ground, and then pile on at least a foot of leaves, straw, or other mulching material.

You might also cover the pile with plastic sheeting, row cover material, or a cloche for more protection, and to keep the mulch in place.

If you can’t bear to cut your plant down, you can leave it intact and fashion a wire cage around the pseudostem, leaving one to two feet of horizontal clearance from the stem to the cage.

Make the cage as high as the amount of pseudostem you want to protect.

After the first light frost, fill the cage with shredded leaves or straw. Make sure you pack it in well, so it completely surrounds the stem.

You may lose any portion of the plant that sticks out above the cage, but the covered portions and the rhizome underground should be protected.

You can also wrap hessian or row cover material around the outside of the wire cage to add insulation and keep the material in place.

Remove the cage and mulching material when warm weather returns and the plant shows signs of regrowth.

Trim off any dead material and start watering.

You can spread the shredded leaves or straw around the base of the plant to provide some extra organic material to the soil.

Dig It Up

Another way to protect your banana plant during wintertime is to dig it up and move it to a cellar, crawlspace, or similar area where the temperature is consistently 45-50°F. Ideally, this should be done before the first frost.

Before you start moving earth, though, you’ll want to cut the plant back to about six inches tall. When that’s done, carefully dig out the rhizomes and roots. Make sure you dig out at least 6-8 inches on either side of the base of the stem.

Place the root ball in a container of slightly moist sand. The tree will go dormant so it won’t need light, and you shouldn’t water it at all during this time.

Banana trees with pseudostems that are larger than five inches in diameter can be dug up and stored without lopping off the top first. Shake the soil from the roots and lay the plant on its side on top of a tarp or newspaper in your chosen location.

Replant when all danger of frost has passed. You’ll want to give your tree plenty of water to revive it.

A Statement Plant that Deserves a Second Life

With their large leaves and impressive height, banana plants can make a spectacular statement in the landscape. But for most of us in the United States, the beauty fades when the winter’s chill approaches.

Rather than simply abandoning your bananas to the whims of weather, you have several choices for protecting them for a return engagement come springtime.

Have you successfully overwintered one of these tropical beauties? How do you revive them after winter? Share your tips in the comments section below.

Do you have other plants you need to protect from the cold? Check out these guides:

  • Guide to Clematis Winter Care: Protect Your Vines From Freezing and Frost
  • Lemongrass Winter Care: How to Prepare for the Cold
  • How to Protect Rosemary Plants in the Winter
  • How to Prepare Fruit Trees for Winter

© Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published on December 29, 2019. [lastupdated]. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock.

How to Dig Up Banana Plants for Winter | Home Guides

By SF Gate Contributor Updated November 11, 2020

Even if your climate isn't exactly tropical, you can still grow banana plants (Musa acuminata). These plants, with their large, lush leaves, thrive outdoors year-round in frost-free areas of U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11 according to Missouri Botanical Garden. However, you can also grow these herbaceous perennials in cooler climates with appropriate banana tree winter storage.

Since most banana plants are not cold-hardy, you generally will have to dig up the plants and and store them indoors before temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. They need to be stored in a space where it is dark and the temperature doesn't dip below freezing. If you grow the plant as an ornamental, cutting back the stem makes for easier storage. But those hoping for fruiting banana trees should not do the big trim.

  1. 1. Cut Back Banana Plant

    Cut the stalk or trunk of the banana plant back to a stump anywhere from half its height to just above the ground with a knife or a tree saw. The height depends on the amount of space you have for storing the plant and the height you want the plant to achieve the next season. New growth emerges from the center of the cut trunk.

    Cut off the lower leaves of a banana plant you want to fruit with a knife if they obstruct the base of the plant. Avoid cutting into the stalk.

  2. 2. Dig Up Banana Plant

    Dig a circle around the base of the banana plant with a shovel. It should be about 10 to 12 inches from the trunk and go down deeper than the root ball itself. As you do this, you will need to cut through some of the outside roots. This makes the banana plant easier to move and store. That's important since, according to Walter Reeves, the stem and roots may turn to much if left outside unprotected.

    Insert a garden fork into the circle cut then wiggle it until it is beneath the root ball. Gently pry the banana plant out of the hole. Move the fork to different spots in the circle as you work on the root ball. When it is loose, lift the root ball out of the soil and lower the plant down on its side as you do.

  3. 3. Caring for the Root Ball

    Examine the banana plant's root ball. Prune out any roots that extend out of the soil mass with a knife or garden pruner so they don't rot over winter. Work a large plastic bag like a garbage bag over the root ball. Secure the bag loosely around the top of the trunk.

  4. 4. Storing the Plant

    Move plants with pruned trunks into the storage area. If you have opted for fruiting banana plants instead of ornamentals, you haven't cut the trunk. On these plants, straighten out the foliage and secure it close to the trunk with twine.

    Wrap the trunk and foliage of your banana plant with several layers of newspaper and secure it with twine. Lay the plant down in the storage area until spring.

    Things You Will Need
    • Knife

    • Shovel

    • Loppers or tree saw

    • Plastic garbage bag

    • Newspaper

    • Twine

    Tip

    Any pups or small sprouts at the base of the banana plant trunk should not be separated until spring.

    Plants do not need to be watered, but the root ball should not dry out entirely.

    Small banana plants can be potted up and brought into your home as houseplants.

    Cut plants back and insulate the trunks and area over the roots with a heavy layer of mulch when you don't want to dig up the plants and your soil does not often freeze solid.

References

  • Missouri Botanical Garden: Musa Acuminata
  • Walter Reeves.com: Overwintering - Bananas
90,000 banana Japanese - how to raise in the house and in the garden, how to save

Content

  • description
  • Useful qualities
  • Flowering
  • Conditions for growing winter hardiness
  • Temperature mode
  • Other moments
  • PROBLEMING, POSSISE, CALL
  • How to save in winter
  • Possible difficulties
  • cultivar413 / Flickr. com

    Banana is one of the most recognizable plants in the world, which by its presence instantly creates tropical color in the garden or in the apartment. Of the 70 other species Japanese banana is the most hardened, cold-resistant, has a preferred medium size, and as a highly ornamental plant, it actively breaks out from the warm Black Sea region to the north, into the abode of snows, up to the Moscow region.

    The theme will be important to anyone who loves tropical landscapes , creates a garden in the style of Borneo, Victorian or Japanese style, who wants to capture the amazement on the faces of guests.

    Where it grows, varieties

    In nature, banana trees grow in most of North America. Wild plant species can be found in wet places: in swamps, along river banks. For cultivation, pow-pow was brought to Europe, Russia, and the Japanese islands. Now pawpaw grows in South America, Africa, on the Indonesian islands. In our country, these trees have been grown since the beginning of the 18th century. The pawpaw is distributed in the Krasnodar Territory, the Rostov Region, in the Stavropol Territory, in the Crimea. There the tree brings a good harvest. In other regions, it is also planted, but its care is more thorough. About 60 species of banana tree are cultivated. Moreover, the selection is carried out by American and Canadian specialists. Popular pawpaw varieties:

    • Martin. Frost-resistant species with medium-sized juicy fruits;
    • Davis. Small trees with high yield. Berries have a good taste;
    • Dessert. View with tall trunks, large and sweet fruits;
    • Sochi. An early maturing species with tall trees bearing large fragrant fruits;
    • Dwarf. Bred for home cultivation. The height of the trunk is from 30 to 150 cm. The fruits are also small - up to 4 cm in length.

    Description

    Japanese banana , or Basho, Basio (Musa javonica, or Musa basjoo) is a large perennial herbaceous plant with several false palm-like trunks maximum height up to 2. 10 m. the size of the plant is gaining to flowering.

    • Banana has powerful rhizomes - rhizomes (live for about 40 years) - with roots up to 5 m to the sides and 1.5 m deep.
    • Gorgeous soft foliage is growing very rapidly, up to 5 sheets per month. Oval sheet plates reach 1.5 m in length and 0.5 m in width. In the Middle lane, you can expect 10-15 leaves for the season .
    • In the wind the leaves are easily torn along the veins into narrow strips, which immediately reduces the decorative effect of the culture. On such a sacrifice, reducing the windage of the leaves, the banana goes, because with a gusty wind it can be uprooted.

    Benefits

    • Any garden large saturated green leaves banana are striking, so they can attract or, conversely, distract attention by planting a plant in representative or unpresentable places.
    • Banana leaf is used in handicrafts, fiber, paper, cooking as a non-food element.
    • All parts of the Japanese banana are used in medicine : flowers - for bronchitis, diabetes, ulcers and indigestion, juice - for epilepsy and severe bleeding, young leaves - for burns and cuts, roots - for indigestion, fruits - for hypertension and depression, fruit peel - from warts.

    Torquay Palms / Flickr.com

    Pests and Diseases

    - Pests White dots on the underside of banana leaves are a sign of tomentose infestation. If there are few pests, we remove them manually, otherwise we use an insecticide.

    - Diseases If brown spots appear in the center of the leaf and the edges of the leaves turn brown, then the soil in the flower pot is too dry and the air humidity is very low. Water the plant more abundantly. During active growth, we provide regular abundant watering to the banana, often spraying the leaves with water. Torn banana leaves (sometimes the gap reaches the midrib) is normal. Surely such damage appeared not through the fault of diseases or pests. If this phenomenon is observed, then your plant is standing in a windy place or it has been poorly looked after. Immediately transfer the banana to a place protected from strong winds.

    Flowering

    • In the phase of about 40th leaf banana blooms , which in conditions with mild winters without frost usually occurs in September of the following year.
    • A large peduncle appears from a false stem among a bunch of leaves.
    • Inflorescence bears female simple flowers at the base, smaller bisexual infertile flowers in the middle of the peduncle and a large bud at the end, under each petal of which there are many small male flowers.
    • In subtropical regions, the Japanese banana is an excellent honey plant , bees visit it very well. One flower produces up to 0.5 g of nectar, which is equal to 100 g of honey for each banana palm.
    • Sometimes in room or greenhouse conditions, with artificial pollination banana even sets fruits . After fruiting, the entire false stem dies off, so it is worth keeping 1-2 young ones for replacement.
    • The fruits of Japanese banana are reddish-purple, up to 25 cm, inedible when raw, but after frying they become like potatoes. During self-pollination, the seeds usually do not set. Seeds hard, round or faceted, 3-5 mm in diameter.

    David Beasley / Flickr.com

    Recipes

    To prepare pawpaw for cooking, wash, peel and remove the stones. This is done just before the start of cooking, so that the pulp does not start to deteriorate.

    Biscuits

    To bake a dessert, you will need: a glass of wheat or flax flour, 100 g of granulated sugar, 75 g of butter, one chicken egg, walnut kernels (can be replaced with peanuts), one pow-pow. The pulp is blended or kneaded with a fork if the berry is very ripe. Softened butter should be rubbed with sugar, mixed with flour. Half of the nuts are also poured there. Berry puree is put into the mixture, an egg is driven in. The mass is brought to a homogeneous state. The dough is laid out on baking paper in small portions. The top of the dessert is decorated with the remaining nuts. Cookies need to be baked at 160 degrees until brown.

    Ice cream

    One banana fruit is taken and made in a blender. A liter of high-fat cream is mixed with six eggs, a glass of sugar is also poured into it. The mixture is put on the stove, brought to a boil, but it is not necessary to boil it. On low heat, the composition is boiled until thickened. After that, the mass is cooled, put in the refrigerator. In pau-pau puree, add the juice of half a lemon, a teaspoon of vanilla sugar. This mass must be mixed with chilled cream, decomposed into molds. Ice cream is placed in the freezer until it hardens.

    Smoothie

    To get a tasty drink, prepare the pulp of one banana tree, 5-6 large strawberries, pieces of papaya, peach. The ingredients are mixed in a blender with the addition of a small amount of granulated sugar and milk. The finished drink can be garnished with mint leaves.

    Growing conditions

    Japanese banana is a surprisingly unassuming and hardy plant.

    Winter hardiness

    • The aerial green part retains elasticity up to +3-5 °С and even grows at +5-6 °С, but dies after short-term frosts down to -1-3 °С.
    • However, with good winter warming of the rhizome, which in no case should freeze, atmospheric temperatures down to -30 ° C are not a problem for this plant.
    • Without insulation, the rhizome survives after a short frost down to -15 °C.

      +5+15 °С. It is this mode that must be observed when growing indoors.

      Other points

      • Banana withstands short-term droughts and summer floods, but grows luxuriantly only when high air humidity (about 80%) and constant soil moisture.
      • Likes sunny, well-lit places develops 2 times slower even in partial shade.
      • Soils should be acidic (pH 5.5-6.5), loose, fertile; on poor soils, a banana will grow well with periodic top dressing.
      • A prerequisite for growing bananas is wind protection during the warm period. A great place for him will be the southern wall of the house, the northern corners of the site in front of the hedge, a quiet place by the pond.

      F. D. Richards / Flickr.com

      Reproduction, planting, care

      Japanese banana is propagated vegetatively by dividing the rhizome, since it usually does not reach fruiting. In the spring , the rhizome is divided into pieces 20-25 cm with several buds or 10 cm each with an offspring 10-15 cm high ( division of hive ). Chopped places are powdered with wood ash for disinfection.

      • It is better to plant banana, both as a container seedling and as a rhizome, after all spring frosts are over.

      At home , the first 3-liter pot is selected for a banana, doubling the volume every year. Homemade banana blooms with a pot volume of more than 30 liters.

      Indoor bananas are more commonly used bright red banana (M. coccinea), velvet (M. velutina), purple (M. violacea), dwarf varieties Cavendish Dwarf’ and ‘ Super Cavendish .

      • For planting a banana, make up soil mixture from peat, sand and garden soil (leaf or sod mixed with compost) in equal parts.
      • In poor garden soils, plant is fertilized with every 2 weeks from late May to October. Banana is violently responsive to any fertilizer. For the active growth of the green crown, preference should be given to nitrogen fertilizers and composts, alternating them with phosphorus-mineral and peat chips.
      • In hot weather watering is necessary every other day, 10 liters of water for every 1 sq. m and daily crown sprinkling. Homemade bananas are regularly sprayed 3-4 times a day. Mulching with straw or other organic matter reduces evaporation from the soil and the need for watering by 2 times.

      The plant needs weeding only at the beginning of the season. Since July, the banana itself has been oppressing the weeds, creating a dense shadow over them. Japanese banana reaches its peak of its luxury in the Middle Lane in August-September, waving its large leaves at a height of more than 2 m.

      Henryr10 / Flickr.com

      Details

      Methods of growing home banana

      Banana's home palm is grown almost without complications, but you still need to have patience and organize some certain conditions

      To germinate the seeds of an ornamental banana, it is necessary to take into account some of their features:

      If everything is done according to plan, germination of seeds can be expected in 3 weeks, but sometimes it can take longer.

      When the banana grass reaches a height of 12 cm, it is transplanted into large pots. Transplantation is carried out by the transshipment method, together with an old earthen clod. In this case, only the bottom and voids on the sides are filled with new soil.

      Important! Suitable soil should be used for planting. It is good to use the soil under mature deciduous trees. It is best to take it from under acacia and linden, and avoid chestnuts, poplars and oaks. The top layer is suitable for use, going to a depth of a maximum of 10 cm, it is considered the most fertile.

      Planting banana root shoots

      Given that banana is not a tree or palm, but a grass that grows from an earthen bulb, it gives many shoots for propagation. Any young shoot can be carefully broken out and placed in a container.

      Breaking out a shoot, sometimes you can harm an adult plant, so that this does not happen, you should know a few rules:

      You can grow a banana palm according to the following algorithm:

      Properly followed steps ensure a quick adaptation and successful growth of a young banana plant.

      How to properly care for banana grass?

      Banana palm leaves are large enough to interact with the environment and the conditions provided. That is why the plant must be provided with heat, light and moisture.

      How to save in winter

      • After the first frost, cut off the stems of the banana leaving stumps 5-10 cm high (new leaves will sprout from these stumps next year).
      • Agrofibre is laid on the ground in 2-3 layers, the wider the better.
      • A thick layer (more than 50 cm ) of dry mulch (leaves, sawdust, straw, husks, hay, reeds, etc.) is poured on top and covered with thick oilcloth , which will not tear during the winter.
      • It is important to keep the mulch dry so it warms better.
      • It is important to prevent the ground from freezing and from saturating the soil with cold winter moisture, which causes banana roots to rot. Therefore DO NOT plant a banana in a hollow .

      F. D. Richards / Flickr.com

      Possible difficulties

      • In the tropics on plantations, bananas are subject to a variety of fungal, bacterial diseases, attack by nematode worms, black weevil. In temperate climates, these diseases do not occur.
      • Only freezing and decay of the rhizome can cause fungal infection . Then the rhizome needs to be dug , cut affected parts, sprinkle with ash and land in a new place.
      • On house bananas there is spider mite , this is from the dryness of the air.
      • In country bananas with a thick layer of mulch, the main enemies are moles and mice that can dig holes in the roots of the plant all winter.

      If you want to have the "most tropical" exotic in your garden, plant Japanese banana . This will not only create a feeling of Hawaiian comfort, cheer up the whole family, surprise guests, but also emphasize your gardening taste and gardening skills.

      Discuss video

      Japanese banana - how to grow in the house and in the garden, how to keep it in winter

      Content

      • Description
      • Useful qualities
      • Flowering
      • Growing conditions
        • Winter hardiness
        • Temperature rating
        • Other items
      • Propagation, planting, care
      • How to save in winter
      • Possible difficulties

      cultivar413 / Flickr.com

      Banana is one of the most recognizable plants in the world, which with its presence instantly creates tropical color in the garden or in the apartment. Of the 70 other species Japanese banana is the most hardened, cold-resistant, has a preferred medium size, and as a highly ornamental plant, it actively breaks out from the warm Black Sea region to the north, into the abode of snows, up to the Moscow region. trunks up to 2.5 m high, up to 10 cm thick. The plant gains its maximum size by flowering.

      • Banana has powerful rhizomes - rhizomes (live for about 40 years) - with roots up to 5 m to the sides and 1.5 m deep.
      • Gorgeous soft foliage grows very rapidly, up to 5 leaves per month. Oval sheet plates reach 1.5 m in length and 0.5 m in width. In the Middle lane, you can expect 10-15 leaves for the season .
      • In the wind the leaves are easily torn along the veins into narrow strips, which immediately reduces the decorative effect of the culture. On such a sacrifice, reducing the windage of the leaves, the banana goes, because with a gusty wind it can be uprooted.

      Useful qualities

      • In any garden large saturated green leaves of a banana catch the eye, so they can attract or, conversely, distract attention by planting a plant in representative or unpresentable places.
      • Banana leaf is used by in handicrafts, fiber, paper, cooking as a non-food item.
      • All parts of the Japanese banana are used in medicine : flowers - for bronchitis, diabetes, ulcers and indigestion, juice - for epilepsy and severe bleeding, young leaves - for burns and cuts, roots - for indigestion, fruits - for hypertension and depression, fruit peel - from warts.

      Torquay Palms / Flickr.com

      Flowering

      • In the 40th leaf phase, banana blooms usually without frost in the following year with a mild winter
      • A large peduncle appears from a false stem among a bunch of leaves - a brush with different shades of green and purple, with a pearly sheen.
      • Inflorescence bears female simple flowers at the base, smaller bisexual sterile flowers in the middle of the peduncle and a large bud at the end, under each petal of which there are many small male flowers.
      • In subtropical regions, the Japanese banana is an excellent honey plant , bees visit it very well. One flower produces up to 0.5 g of nectar, which is equal to 100 g of honey for each banana palm.
      • Sometimes in indoor or greenhouse conditions, with artificial pollination banana even sets fruits . After fruiting, the entire false stem dies off, so it is worth keeping 1-2 young ones for replacement.
      • The fruits of Japanese banana are reddish-purple, up to 25 cm, inedible when raw, but after frying they become like potatoes. During self-pollination, the seeds usually do not set. Seeds hard, round or faceted, 3-5 mm in diameter.

      David Beasley / Flickr.com

      Growing Conditions

      The Japanese banana is a surprisingly unassuming and hardy plant.

      Winter hardiness

      • The aerial green part retains its elasticity up to +3-5 °С and even grows at +5-6 °С, but dies after short-term frosts down to -1-3 °С.
      • However, with good winter warming of the rhizome , which in no case should freeze, atmospheric temperatures down to -30 ° C are not a problem for this plant.
      • Without insulation, the rhizome survives after a short frost down to -15 °C.

      Temperature regime

      The optimum temperatures for the growth of a Japanese banana are +25-35 °С in the summer day in the sun, +20-25 °С in the summer night, +15-25 °С in the sun in the winter day, + 15-25 °С in the winter night - + 5+15 °С. It is this mode that must be observed when growing indoors.

      Other points

      • Banana withstands short-term droughts and summer floods, but grows luxuriantly only when high air humidity (about 80%) and constant soil moisture.
      • Likes sunny, well-lit places develops 2 times slower already in partial shade.
      • Soils must be acidic (pH 5.5-6.5), loose, fertile; on poor soils, a banana will grow well with periodic top dressing.
      • A prerequisite for growing bananas is wind protection during the warm period. A great place for him will be the southern wall of the house, the northern corners of the site in front of the hedge, a quiet place by the pond.

      F. D. Richards / Flickr.com

      Reproduction, planting, care

      Japanese banana is propagated vegetatively, by dividing the rhizome, since it usually does not reach fruiting. In spring the rhizome is divided into pieces 20-25 cm with several buds or 10 cm each with offspring 10-15 cm high ( dividing bush ). Chopped places are powdered with wood ash for disinfection.

      • It is better to plant banana, both as a container seedling and as a rhizome, after all spring frosts are over.

      At home , the first 3-liter pot is selected for a banana, doubling the volume every year. Homemade banana blooms with a pot volume of more than 30 liters.

    • For planting a banana, make up soil mixture from peat, sand and garden soil (leaf or sod mixed with compost) in equal parts.
    • In poor garden soils, plant is fertilized with every 2 weeks from late May to October. Banana is violently responsive to any fertilizer. For the active growth of the green crown, preference should be given to nitrogen fertilizers and composts, alternating them with phosphorus-mineral and peat chips.
    • In hot weather watering is needed every other day, 10 liters of water for every 1 sq. m and daily crown sprinkling. Homemade bananas are regularly sprayed 3-4 times a day. Mulching with straw or other organic matter reduces evaporation from the soil and the need for watering by 2 times.

    The plant needs weeding only at the beginning of the season. Since July, the banana itself has been oppressing the weeds, creating a dense shadow over them. Japanese banana reaches its peak of its luxury in the Middle Lane in August-September, waving its large leaves at a height of more than 2 m.

    Henryr10 / Flickr.com

    How to save in winter
    • After the first frost, the banana stems are cut off , leaving 5-10 cm high stumps (new leaves will sprout from these stumps next year).
    • Agrofibre is laid on the ground in 2-3 layers, the wider the better.
    • A thick layer (more than 50 cm ) is poured on top of dry mulch (leaves, sawdust, straw, husks, hay, reeds, etc.) and cover it with a dense oilcloth , which will not tear during the winter.
    • It is important to keep the mulch dry as it warms better.
    • It is important to prevent the ground from freezing and from saturating the soil with winter cold moisture, which causes banana roots to rot. Therefore DO NOT plant a banana in the lowlands .

    F. D. Richards / Flickr.com

    Possible difficulties