How to keep christmas tree watered while away


5 Weird & Easy Ways to Water Your Christmas Tree « Christmas Ideas :: WonderHowTo

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Christmas trees, once decorated and brightly lit, are the penultimate holiday decoration, but authentic pines lose their brilliance fast without any nourishment. Plus, they are major fire hazards without regular hydration. But watering one requires a lot of sliding around on the floor, and it can be hard to tell how much water is in the bowl beneath the dark, prickly branches. These five hacks can help!

1. Break Out Your Beer Bong

What's better than a tree watering device that requires zero bending and little effort? If you have a beer bong lying around or hiding in your box of old college stuff, pop it in your Christmas tree's stand and create an instant irrigation system. By placing the end of the beer bong's tubing into the tree stand's bowl, holding the funnel outside of the branches, you can quickly pour in any amount of water and refresh your tree.

Image via Imgur

2. Use a Funnel for a Quick Irrigation System

Happen to have a funnel and some plastic piping in your garage? You're just a few steps away from creating your own Christmas tree irrigation system. As Karla Archer of Living the Life Fantastic demonstrates, you don't need to be an expert handyman to rig an easy-to-use watering setup. All you need are two pieces of straight PVC pipe, two elbow connectors, and a cheap funnel.

Once your piping is put together, stick the end into your tree stand's bowl, and place the funnel in the top opening. Now, each time you'd like to add a little water, you can drop a dash or two right into the funnel.

Images via Living the Life Fantastic

3. Drink Up & Use a Wine Bottle

Forget crouching down or crawling around; with an empty wine bottle, you can tilt and pour easily to refill your tree's water bowl quickly.

Alyssa of My Clever Nest demonstrates the tactic on her blog and notes that the long neck of a wine bottle makes watering from a distance easier — and it'll keep you from spilling all over your fancy tree skirt. Those slim extra inches on the bottle offer a convenient pour spout that other containers, like water bottles, can't match.

With their similar design, empty beer bottles are also an excellent choice, though they obviously won't hold as much water.

Image via My Clever Nest

4. Break Out Your Pool Noodle

Pool noodles don't have to sit around unused during the winter. As seen on Create Craft Love, they can be pretty handy at Christmastime. Stick your pool noodle into the tree's bowl or stand, then pop a spare funnel on top, centering it in the toy's opening. Now, you're ready to add water without any effort.

Image via Create Craft Love

5. Set Up an Automatic Watering System

Plastic tubing and piping make the task of tree watering simple no matter how they're used, but with a few extra additions, you can rig a tube to keep your Christmas tree hydrated without refilling its bowl.

As Reddit user mgnichol explains, setting up an automatic tree-watering system takes some spare plastic tubing, a zip tie, and an empty plastic bin. Place one end of the tubing into the tree's stand and the other into the bin, making sure to secure the tubing to the container with the zip tie. Fill your bin with water, and you won't need to add a drop of liquid underneath the tree's branches throughout the holiday season.

Image by Mgnichol/Reddit

The only problem is trying to figure out where to put the plastic bin, which is where Ricky Spears' idea comes in. He used a bucket and actually disguised it inside a box as a Christmas present. No one will be able to tell the difference, except for maybe the day after Christmas.

Image by Ricky Spears/Instructables

Whichever watering method you choose, it's easy to avoid rolling around on the floor beneath your tree and its priceless decorations. You might even wind up with a more hydrated tree thanks to the ease of your new system.

If you're really lazy, you could always just buy something like the Smart Tree Keeper, which is similar to the PVC method above except it gives you a warning system to let you know when your tree needs water.

Don't Miss: How to Fill in Ugly Bare Spots on Your Christmas Tree

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How to build an automatic watering device for your Christmas tree

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A few years ago, I got tired of having to pour water from a tiny cup into the base of my Christmas tree stand two or three times a day.

I want to show you how you can build your own automatic tree watering device for about $25.

And the best part: it has no motorized parts or anything. Its powered by simple physics.

What you’ll need

  • 10 feet of clear vinyl tubing (like this)
  • Two 5/8 compression fittings (like these)
  • A bucket or storage container, preferably with a lid (like this one)
  • Optionally, a siphon starter pump (this one is perfect)

How to build the tree watering device

  1. Put a compression fitting on each end of the vinyl tubing.
  2. Put one end of the tube in the bucket, and the other in your tree stand.
  3. Fill the bucket with water. Be careful not to fill it higher than the top of your tree stand or you’ll get water all over the floor.
  4. Create a siphon by filling the tube completely with water.

Important: A bucket of water is a safety issue if you have children in the house. I strongly recommend one with a locking cover. You might even want to duct tape it shut for extra safety. Children can drown in just a few inches of water!

This works entirely with gravity and water pressure.

When the water level in the bucket is higher than in the tree stands, water in the tube is pulled down into the stand. Because there is a vacuum in the tube, water is pulled “uphill” out of the bucket. Here’s a video on how siphons work if you want to learn more.

Its super important that there’s no air in the tube. If there is, the siphon will break.

Refilling the bucket

How often you need to refill the bucket will vary depending on how big it is and how much water your tree drinks.

I find that the first few days I bring my tree into the house, I need to refill the bucket once in the morning and once at night. After that, I fill it once in the morning for the first week or two.

Once the tree slows down, I can fill it once every few days.

Safety

An open bucket is a drowning risk for children.

You can put a locking cover on the bucket with the tube coming out the side an maintain your siphon Put the tub as far away from the locking parts as you can to minimize how much it gets crushed by the cover and you’ll be fine.

You might want to duct tape the cover down for even more safety.

Tips and tricks

Starting the siphon

Getting the tube filled with water and completely air free, and then putting it in the tree stand while keeping air out, is kind of a pain.

I strongly recommend picking up a siphon starter pump. They’re inexpensive and make the process a lot easier.

You submerge the pump in the bucket, put the end of it into the tube, and pump three or four times until the tube is completely filled with water (make sure the other end is already in the tree stand). And that’s it. You’re done.

Prevent overfilling and underfilling

If you overfill the bucket, you’ll end up with water on the floor. If you underfill it, the base of your tree will sap over, it will stop drinking, and it will die.

On your bucket, you can mark off max fill and min fill lines with permanent marker.

Set the max fill line to a quarter inch or so below the top of your tree stand. Set the min fill line to a half inch above the bottom of the water reservoir in the stand.

Hiding the bucket

The bucket and tube setup is pretty ugly. You can disguise the bucket as a present under the tree.

Cut the flaps off an empty box that’s about the same size as your bucket (or tape the flaps up to make a box that’s too short a bit taller). Then wrap it in wrapping paper.

You can cover the tubing with your tree skirt.

home care, photo, varieties, replanting, flower diseases

These plants are native to Central America and live in the wild on high ground along the Pacific coast. The Christmas star was first described in 1834 by the German scientist Johann Kloshz (1), who also gave it a Latin name - in honor of the botanist Joel Poinsett, who was the first American ambassador to Mexico. But you, in Russian botanical literature, this flower has a more prosaic name - the most beautiful spurge (Euphorbia pulcherrima). Yes, yes, poinsettia belongs to the genus Euphorbia and is a member of the Euphorbiaceae family (Euphorbiaceae).

In nature, poinsettias reach a height of 3 m, but in culture they are much more modest, and modern varieties are completely undersized - no higher than 30 cm. They bloom from December to February, the peak of their decorative effect falls on the main winter holidays - hence the name "Christmas star". In Europe and America, this flower is a symbol of Christmas, and about 60 million potted poinsettias are sold around the world every year on the eve of the holiday. By the way, the main supplier of these plants is not Holland, as many people think, but the USA - they provide 50% of the world market.

The most interesting thing is that poinsettias are sold only at the time of flowering, but the flowers themselves are of no interest - they are small and inconspicuous. But the plant has come up with a trick - when the buds appear, the upper bracts turn bright red, which attracts pollinating insects. It is these leaves that give the Christmas star its unique look.

Varieties of the Christmas star flower

There are not so many varieties of the Christmas star, but their number is growing from year to year. They differ mainly in the color of the upper leaves. The very first - Red Star - introduced in 1919 (2). And now the following varieties are most popular:

  • Carousel Pink - with pale pink bracts, which have green veins;
  • Da Vinci - delicate pinkish variety with red patches;
  • Jester Red has bright red leaves with dark veins;
  • Jingle Bells - with red upper leaves, on which there are white patches, similar to snow flakes;
  • Marble - with cream bracts and heart-shaped pink-red inflorescence (3);
  • Premium Miro - with white-pink bracts;
  • Premium Red - classic variety with red leaves at the top;
  • Strawberry and cream is a very unusual cultivar with pink-purple leaves with a heavily cut white edge;
  • Winter Rose White - with white bracts that are slightly compressed and resemble rosebuds.
Carousel Pink. Photo: wikipedia.orgJingle Bells variety. Photo: wikipedia.org Da Vinci variety. Photo: wikipedia.orgJester Red variety. Photo: wikipedia.orgPremium Miro variety. Photo: wikipedia.org

Caring for a Christmas star flower at home

You probably see these luxurious flowers at your friends' homes for the New Year holidays. However, in spring or summer you will not find them on the windowsills. Why? Yes, because poinsettias are very whimsical plants. Pleasing them is an art! Not even every greenhouse undertakes to add their collection. By the way, in America and Europe, the Christmas star is considered a disposable plant: they treat it the same way as with bouquets - they admired it on holidays and threw it away.

But if you still decide to fight to the victory, then take into account all the whims of this flower.

Important! Christmas star juice is poisonous! If it is accidentally licked by an animal or child, it can cause poisoning - vomiting, diarrhea, severe irritation of the gastrointestinal tract, and even contact dermatitis. Therefore, you need to transplant and propagate the plant only with gloves. Also, the flower can cause allergies in people who react to plant pollen.

Soil

Poinsettia likes slightly acidic soil (pH - 6 - 6.5), so high-moor peat should be added to the soil. There are 2 varieties of soil mixes (2) that are used to grow the Christmas star:

  • peat or compost, leafy soil, soddy soil, crushed pine bark and sand in a ratio of 1:1:1:1:1;
  • peat, soddy soil, humus and sand in the ratio 1:1:1:1.

Temperature

The Christmas star does not like cold and heat, it needs a temperature no higher than 20 °C. During the flowering period, it should not fall below 17 ° C. During the dormant period, which, unlike other flowers, the poinsettia occurs from March to October, you can remove it to a cool, shady place where the temperature will be at least 12 ° C.

Poinsettia does not tolerate drafts and sudden temperature fluctuations, so always remove the flower from the windowsill when airing.

Lighting

The Christmas star loves plenty of sun during its flowering period. And this is the main problem, because from December to February in the middle lane there are the shortest days and there is a catastrophic lack of light for the plant. Therefore, if you are going to save the plant, you will have to illuminate it with fitolamps - they must be turned on by 8 - 9hours per day. But in the summer, poinsettias, on the contrary, need to be shaded from the scorching sun (3).

In order for the poinsettia to bloom, it is important that the daylight hours be no more than 8 hours - if it is 12 hours, the buds will not be laid, and beautiful colored leaves will not appear.

Humidity

In winter, poinsettias need to be watered frequently, about 2-3 times a week, but it is important not to overwater - the flower does not like excess moisture. Let the top layer of soil dry out a little between waterings. In the summer, in the heat, you need to water abundantly, because the peat-based soil dries out very quickly.

Poinsettia leaves need constant moisture. Photo: wikipedia.org

Water must be warm, at least room temperature, and certainly not from the tap. Water the poinsettia under the root. But the leaves also need constant moisture, otherwise they may lose color. Therefore, it is necessary to spray the flower, especially in winter, often.

Fertilizers and top dressings

The vast majority of indoor plants are fed from March to September, but the opposite is true for poinsettia - the active period is simple and it blooms in the winter, so it needs to be fertilized from November to March every 2 weeks. Any liquid complex fertilizer will do.

In the summer, during the dormant period, fertilizers are also needed, but they are rarely given - about once every 1.5 months.

Pruning

In March, the poinsettia usually fades and a dormant period sets in - at this time the flower should be cut off about 1/3, leaving 10 centimeters above the ground. After pruning, the plant should be removed to the shade and not watered until May (3).

At the beginning of May, the Christmas star should be transplanted into a new pot and well watered. When new shoots appear, you need to leave 4 - 5 of the strongest, and cut the rest.

Propagation of Christmas star flower at home

Poinsettia is propagated by top cuttings - shoots left after pruning in May are suitable. However, rooting them is not so easy.

Cuttings cut with 4-5 leaves. The lower ones are removed, leaving only the 2 upper ones. After that, they are placed for 30 minutes in warm (30 - 40 ° C) water so that milky juice comes out of them. After that, the cuttings are powdered with a root formation stimulator (Heterauxin or Kornevin) and planted in pots, in loose, moisture-intensive soil. The ideal option for rooting is a mixture of peat and sand in a 1: 1 ratio (2).

Cuttings are buried in the soil by 1.5 - 2 cm, no more - when planted deep, they begin to rot. Pots with cuttings should be kept in a warm room (20 - 25 ° C) with moderate lighting. It is also important that the soil temperature is about 20 ° C, so do not put the pots on the windowsill if it blows from the window.

After 10-15 days, callus forms on the poinsettia cuttings, roots appear on the 20th day, and after 25-30 days the cuttings are fully rooted (2) and can be transplanted into larger hills.

There are not so many varieties of a Christmas star. Photo: wikipedia.org

Christmas star flower transplant at home

Poinsettia is transplanted in early May, after its dormant period is over. The new pot should be slightly larger in diameter than the old one - about 2 cm.

Leaf edges turn yellow and dry. The reason is dry air.

Poinsettias need to be sprayed frequently to avoid problems.

Leaves wither. There may be opposite reasons - insufficient watering or, conversely, excessive soil moisture, especially if the plant is standing on a cold windowsill.

Correct watering will help solve the problem.

Christmas star flower pests

Poinsettia is susceptible to pest attacks and it is important to detect them in time so that the plant does not die.

Spider mite. If the infection is small, it can be recognized by numerous whitish dots on the leaves. If there are a lot of pests, the leaves turn yellow and fall off, the plants are covered with cobwebs.

You can get rid of spider mites with the help of Kleshchevit (4).

Mealybug. The main signs of this pest are white lumps on the leaves, similar to cotton wool, and sticky honeydew.

To combat this pest, Fitoverm or Actellik preparations are used (4).

Thrips. Signs of damage can be found on the leaves - they are covered with oblong spots and curled.

Actara will help in the fight against thrips (4).

Popular Questions and Answers

We talked with agronomist-breeder Svetlana Mikhailova about the choice of poinsettia and problems in growing this plant.

How to choose a Christmas star flower?

In the store, pay attention to the appearance of the plant: the leaves should be lush and completely cover the shoots. Bracts - bright, without green blotches (unless these blotches are varietal features). Green spots on colored leaves are a sign of poor care.

Why do the leaves of the Christmas star flower fall off?

As a rule, they fall off for 3 reasons:

the plant has been overwatered;
· it stands in a draft;
· it lacks light.

Why doesn't the Christmas star bloom?

There can be many reasons, but if you summarize them, the poinsettia was not properly cared for. To achieve flowering, you need to carefully follow all the recommendations for growing.

Sources

  1. Klotzsch, J. F. Beschreibung zweier neuen Euphorbien aus Mexico // Allgemeine Gartenzeitung magazin. - 1834, Bd. 2. – S. 27.
  2. Visyashcheva L.V., Sokolova T.A. Industrial floriculture. Textbook for technical schools // M.: Agropromizdat, 1991 - 368 p.
  3. Dr. Hession D.G. All about indoor plants // M .: Kladez-Buks, 2002 - 256 p.
  4. State catalog of pesticides and agrochemicals approved for use on the territory of the Russian Federation as of July 6, 2021 // Ministry of Agriculture of the Russian Federation https://mcx.gov.ru/ministry/departments/departament-rastenievodstva-mekhanizatsii- khimizatsii-i-zashchity-rasteniy/industry-information/info-gosudarstvennaya-usluga-po-gosudarstvennoy-registratsii-pestitsidov-i-agrokhimikatov/

Poinsettia or Christmas star flower at home: how to care for it, save it until next year and make it bloom again

Plants that bloom in the coldest and darkest winter months can be counted on the fingers. One of these “uniques” is the most beautiful poinsettia (the most beautiful euphorbia, the Christmas star). In winter, it blooms with small button-flowers, framed by bright bracts of red, pink, and white tones. It is they who give the plant a festive, recognizably "Christmas" look.

Poinsettias are usually bought on New Year's Eve or Christmas Eve as a temporary decoration. After flowering ends and the bracts fall off, the plant is discarded. This happens because poinsettia is very capricious. For many unlucky flower growers, it rots already in the first months of being in the house, for others it never blooms again. The Christmas star needs special care, taking into account its tropical origin, clear periods of rest and vegetation. In this case, it will delight you for many years, blooming anew every December. And it can bloom as much as 3-4 months! Therefore, it is still worth making friends with her and keeping her, despite the difficulties.

Poinsettia flowers are small, inconspicuous, but they are framed by bright colorful bracts

Contents

  • 1 Christmas star flower: character traits
  • 2 Christmas star: care during flowering (December - February)
  • 3 Rest period (March-April)
  • 4 Vegetation period (May-September)
  • 5 Preparation for flowering (end of September-November)
  • 6 Finest poinsettia: video

Christmas star flower: personality traits

Poinsettia has a complex character. She is extremely thermophilic, prefers a temperature range of 12-25 ° C. The summer heat above 25°C is negative. It does not tolerate dry air, so in winter, with running batteries, it has to be sprayed often. Any cold, draft can also be fatal for the Christmas star. Imagine: this flower in winter needs to be moved away from the window pane so that delicate leaves do not accidentally touch the cold surface. Here is such a sissy!

Varieties of the most beautiful poinsettia

Poinsettia is usually acquired in winter, during the flowering period. It is impossible to buy it on the street, at temperatures below 5 ° C. Even a short stay in such conditions is often detrimental to the poinsettia. After purchase, you can not transfer an open plant in the cold. Wrap it in paper, cover with a cloth, and only then take it outside. Otherwise, the poinsettia will get frostbite, the consequences of which can be the most unpleasant: from falling leaves to the death of the plant.

Poinsettia characteristics

Christmas Star: Care in Bloom (December-February)

So you bought a blooming poinsettia and brought it home. What's next? Follow these simple steps:

1. Place the poinsettia on a bright south, east or west window sill. In winter, the southern window sill is ideal for her, but with obligatory shading from direct sunlight.

2. Maintain temperature between 16-25°C. Do not open the vents so that cold air does not enter the plant.

3. Maintain high humidity. It is desirable that there are no hot batteries under the windowsill that reduce humidity. Dry air has a very bad effect on the plant, reducing its decorative properties (leaves dry, turn yellow, fall off). Therefore, in winter, spray poinsettia with warm settled water 1-2 times a day. Or use other methods to increase humidity. For example, place a plant pot (with a tray) in a wide extra tray filled with wet expanded clay. Or get a humidifier.

4. Water the poinsettia as needed. She prefers moist soil, but without stagnant water and dampness. Watering should be carried out with warm settled water only after the topsoil has dried. The water from the pan must be drained, otherwise the soil will become damp and the roots will begin to rot.

5. One month after purchase, if the poinsettia continues to bloom, feed it with a complete fertilizer for indoor flowering plants. So you prolong its beauty, add strength for further flowering.

Poinsettia with proper care can bloom up to 4 months!

Rest period (March-April)

After flowering, the bracts of the Christmas star fall off, and the leaves may also partially fly around. The first sign of the end of flowering is the appearance of green leaves on top of the bracts. During this period:

1. Place the poinsettia in a shaded, cool place with a temperature of 12-15°C.

2. Trim the plant. It is enough to leave shoots 7-10 cm high on the poinsettia.

Pruning poinsettia allows you to later form a compact, well-flowering bush0002 3. Minimize watering. Between waterings, the earth ball can dry out completely, this will only benefit the “sleeping” plant.

At rest, the home flower of the Christmas star should stay 1.5-2 months.

Vegetation period (May - September)

With the advent of warm weather, poinsettia begins active growth: new shoots and leaves appear, the root mass increases.

With the onset of warm and sunny days, the cut poinsettia bush begins to be covered with young leaves

The plan for caring for the Christmas star during the growing season is:

1. Transplant the poinsettia to new soil. It should be loose and moisture permeable. This composition is well suited: leafy soil, soddy soil, peat, sand in a ratio of 2:3:1:1. The pot can be taken a little more than the previous one. But remember that the larger the pot, the taller the poinsettia can grow. At home, up to 35-50 cm.

2. Place the plant pot on a warm, light window sill. Ideally, take it out to the balcony or garden. The place of detention should be light, but with shading from direct midday rays. The hot sun can scorch tender leaves. It is unacceptable to install a pot of poinsettia in a draft.

3. Keep the poinsettia at 16-25°C.

4. Water the plant sparingly, after the top layer of earth has dried to a thickness of 2-3 cm. Drain all the water that has spilled through the wood holes into the pan. If waterlogged, root rot is possible!

5. As top dressing in the spring and summer, use universal fertilizer (with the same content of N, P, K) or fertilizer for ornamental foliage (with a high content of N). With a violent growth, poinsettia responds to the introduction of humus, bird droppings, and humus.

6. Start shaping the poinsettia. As soon as the plant begins to grow, select the 4-6 strongest shoots, cut the rest (cut cuttings can be used for rooting). Thus, a compact, dense crown is formed and a decorative look of the flower is provided.

Preparation for flowering (end of September - November)

Under normal room conditions, without following certain conditions of maintenance, flowering of poinsettia can be difficult. In order for the laying of flower buds to occur, it is necessary to create conditions for the plant that are close to natural. In its homeland, in Mexico, the flowering of poinsettia begins after 2 months of short daylight hours with a duration of 10 hours. When keeping poinsettia in living rooms, such conditions are provided artificially. There are several options for how to do this:

Option #1 - Protect the poinsettia from light

Beginning in late September, from 6 pm to 8 am, cover the poinsettia with a cardboard box or an opaque plastic bag.

Option #2 - Provide a natural cycle of darkness and light

In the fall, place the poinsettia in a heated greenhouse or non-living room where there is no artificial light. Naturally, a short daylight hours during this period will be sufficient for her.

Option #3 - use light barriers

Unfortunately, under normal room conditions, electrical appliances (lamps, TV screens, etc.


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