How to lower tree limbs with rope


It’s Not as Difficult as You Think

What you think, cutting or falling down a tree limb is so much easy? Never, trust me it is not an easy task for anyone. If you are alone or have no experience and, if you are a slow coach, then please hire a professional for doing this. But if you’re a hard worker and love to gather any new experience then does it as your own. Of course, you will enjoy it; how to rope down a tree limb .

Ideally, you do not need many instruments for doing this. You only need some home tools to do this task. Besides, this task is not so easy if the limb has massive weight. At the same time, if the tree limb is a big sized and its position is not secure as it beside any wire supplies, or there have any kinds of the apartment under it.

So, read this  content carefully, hope after reading this, you will do it quickly without outside help.

Procedures : How To Rope down a Tree Limb

From the basement, a big tree limb may look to be small-sized and also insubstantial, but trust me, it is your wrong thinking; you also can’t assess its full mass and the massive weight till it’s not been trimmed down. Another important fact is that, although, if you’re enabled to cutting down a big shaped and weighty limb yourself, then maybe you don’t want to fall it on you or someone else.

According to any old apartment, a massive limb weighing about 150 pounds and which is also can hit the basement about 250 pounds of torque force from any types of short distance. For this reason, you need a safe process due to avoid any hazards.

By following this content, you can quickly shift such a big branch by securing it with the sturdy rope from the tree top before cutting the limb.  Not only that, this process will assure you that, the tree limb may remain pendent till you are forward to put it down.

Step 1: Positioning the ladder

At first, set an extension ladder on a tree as it confirms the secure position. Select the location, which will provide you more safety and easy to complete the task. Mind that, always keep the coiled rope with you, whenever you climb the branch for removing it. Do this step at first. Never lose your confidence anymore. Do this task confidently. Now prepare for the next level.

Step 2: Cutting the branches

Now, you need a  echo pruning saw for removing the small branches. We recommend the pruning saw because its working capacity is better than others. Not only that, it is so much easy to control the pruning saw. Your goal is to remove all the small branches from the climb as it becomes so much lightweight and easy to fall it down.

Step 3: Positioning the sturdy rope

In this step, make a slipknot loop in one side of the string and then drape the tight circle over the tree limb which you want to remove. You also need to, positioning the firm line. And always check it as it at least from the main tree trunk. Now, leaving enough places from the limb tree to the active line, which will allow that, you should cut the midway position between the two parts.

Step 4: Cover the secure lo

op

Now enter the free part of the sturdy rope over the tight circle, and you need to haul the strong line for making it more tighten. Now, you tend to coil the sturdy rope as back up, then pass through it above the tree limb as many times.

Step 5: Robust the limb

After that, place another robust limb junction. You also crotch it above the tree limb, which you want to cut or pull down. Then, toss the coiled rope end. Now the rope coil end is towards the basement. Now, time to pick up the sturdy rope again an wrap it t the same time, and do it around the 2nd  tree limb for 2 or 3 times.

Step 6: Creating tension and wrapping it out

What do you want to do now? Well, now climb down carefully from the extension ladder. Then you need to keep the rood for creating tension. Not only that, you tend to wrap it many times now around its base, where you are walking on. You also cover it if you have another tree beside you or any light post or steady stick. Hen, weave another free end of the sturdy rope to the section for making it more secure as well.

Necessary Equipment:

This is an easy task. For this task, you need some material which is available around you. You need best Sturdy rope. Then you need one extension ladder for climbing the tree. For safety issue, you also need to manage one work gloves. The best item for this task is pruning saw, which has the awesome power from the branches correctly.

Furthermore, you need one chainsaw, or one bow saw to finish the chapters successfully. Hopefully, you will get the equipment in your house already. If you have not this collection, then please rent it from any craftsman. And if you find it so much involved, then please hire one skillful person to do it.

Tips and advice

Here have a few suggestions for you whenever you try to rip down a tree limb. If you are unable to get the free rope end over the higher arm, then you should attach much weight on it as it will be easier for you to do the task.

For this reason, you also can use few throw weights on it like arborists type weight. Or you should attach any heavy materials on it, for catch the end.

Final Word:

So, finally, we learn how to rope down a tree limb. Here we almost try to discuss the easiest and the safest way for you as you do it quickly at your home without any outside help. If you find it is possible to you, then please follow these procedures step by step.

Cutting down 30 foot high tree branches

Believe it or not, there is an easy way to cut down high tree branches (we’re talking 30 feet plus) without training to be an acrobat, buying climbing equipment or paying a professional hundreds of dollars.

For many of us, that high tree branch is obstructing an otherwise beautiful view, adding wear and tear to our roof shingles or is simply dead and unsightly.

Whatever the reason, that tree branch has got to go! So let’s get to work…

What You’ll Need

Direct links to the products on Amazon are included. Total cost is about $35 – $40.  Most folks will already have everything they need, except the pocket chainsaw. In that case, you’ll only need to invest $20.

  1. Pocket Chainsaw
  2. Rope (100ft.)
  3. Gloves
  4. A 1.25 or 2.5 pound weight

I don’t have a 1.25 pound weight. I’m not trying to brag, but I only have 2.5 pound weights.
If you don’t have a plate weight, any object weighing around 1 lb. that you can tie the rope around or through will work.

Time Commitment

This happens a lot quicker than you might think. Once you get the hang of it, you’ll be taking branches down in 5 to 10 minutes.

Of course, cutting up and disposing of the branches will take additional time.

How to Cut High Branches From the Ground

Step 1 – Cut the Rope

Cut your 100 foot length of rope in half to create two 50 foot pieces.

The easiest way to do this is to tie both ends of the rope to an object, then stretch the rope all the way out to find the center point. From there, just cut it with a knife or blade of some kind.

For extra credit, you can use a lighter to burn the end of the rope so it doesn’t fray any further.

Step 2 – Warm Up Your Shoulder

This is where that very light weight comes in that I mentioned in the beginning.

Tie the rope to the weight and throw it up over the tree branch you are trying to take down. You want to try to get as close to the trunk of the tree as possible.

Personally, I found this difficult with anything above 25 feet high. Believe it or not, the weight of the rope itself actually hindered the throw a bit.

For anything above 25 feet, I usually start with kite string and a small rock. Once you throw the kite string over the branch, you can tie the rope to the string and pull the rope over.

With extreme heights, you can try using a slingshot, or bow and arrow if you have that kind of skill (I do not).

Step 3 – Attaching the rope to the pocket chainsaw

Once you have one of your ropes hanging over the tree branch, it’s time to tie one end to your pocket chainsaw.

At this point, you’ll also tie the other rope (that is not hanging from the tree) to the other end of your pocket chainsaw.

Now, continue to pull the rope until the chain is sitting firmly on top of the branch you are cutting.

If you’re lucky, the teeth of the chain will be facing down on top of the branch. Otherwise, you’ll have to pull the chain back down a bit, then real it up again trying to make sure the teeth are facing down. This may take a few tries!

Step 4 – Start Sawing!

This is actually the easiest part. It just takes just a little bit of shoulder muscle.

Put on your gloves and start pulling the ropes back and forth at a consistent speed.

Do not exert any downward force on the ropes by pulling hard while you saw. Let the teeth on the chain do the work.

When you hear the branch start to crack, get ready to run!

If the branch did not come down cleanly, chances are that the chain is still hanging from the tree, and you can continue to saw the branch off until the cut is clean.

Congratulations, you just did something that you may have never thought possible without hiring a pro!

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Why and how to bend the branches of fruit trees? Photo — Botanichka

Spring has come, which means it's time for the formation of our fruit trees. Most gardeners traditionally use pruning for this. But it turns out that there is another way to give the trees the desired shape and get good yields. In this article I will talk about how to form a tree not by pruning, but by bending its branches.

Why and how to bend branches of fruit trees?

Why branches should be formed horizontally?

Let's start a little further. If somewhere in the neighborhood there is a fruit tree that no one cares for, or no one has stopped caring for, then come up and carefully examine it. Most likely, you will see a large number of vertically growing branches that race towards the light. Gardeners have long ago noticed that there are practically no fruits on such vertical shoots, flower buds do not form on them. But a large number of growth buds are formed, which, thickening each other, by all means strive upward.

Naturally, this state of affairs does not suit us gardeners, we need a harvest from a fruit tree. And again, gardeners noticed that a horizontally located branch, on the contrary, bears fruit very abundantly.

So, the first thing you need to bend the branches of fruit trees is to increase the yield. But not only…

By bending the branches away from the vertical position, we open the crown, as it were, allowing sunlight to penetrate inside the crown and evenly illuminate each branch. And this leads to the formation of more flower buds, and, as a result, the tree will bear fruit better. Moreover, an open, unthickened, well-ventilated and heated crown is less susceptible to any diseases, because moisture does not stay there for a long time, and it is more difficult for insect pests to survive.

Well, the third important point. After all, we (most of us) grow fruit trees for harvest. And this means that a lot of operations need to be carried out with a tree during the season: cut, spray, heal wounds, harvest. Agree, all this is much more convenient, easier, and most importantly, more efficient to do if you can reach each part of the tree with your hand and not climb ladders, stepladders and other shaky structures.

I don’t know about you, but for me everything that can be reached by hand receives maximum care, and what is far (high) receives care according to the residual principle, they say, then ... it will be in time. Even the most pleasant moment of harvesting on a tall tree turns into a test, and often the fruits remain there or fall to the ground, break and are no longer needed by anyone. It turns out, it seems, that there is a tree in the garden, and it gives a harvest, but there is little sense from it. I believe 2.5 meters is the maximum height for a fruit tree to be used and processed effectively.

The optimal bending angle of the branches will be approximately 60 degrees

How and when should the branches be bent?

So, the reasons have been sorted out. Now about how to bend these same branches correctly. Remember? Vertical ones grow well, but bear fruit poorly, while horizontal ones, on the contrary, bear fruit well. But there is one caveat. They bear fruit, then they bear fruit, but their age is short, precisely because they do not give growth. The branch quickly depletes its strength and gradually dies off. We are also not interested in this.

So the right compromise must be found. Optimal, as it turned out, would be an angle of about 60 degrees. Between what and what? Between the vertical of the trunk and the branch being bent, but the angle is on top (see figure). Such a branch will both bear fruit well and give small, moderate growths, which means it will live for a long time.

As practice shows, branches can be bent at any time of the year, but there is one important point. If suddenly for some reason you decide to do it in winter, then keep in mind that the wood of many species in the cold becomes brittle, brittle and excessive effort can lead to trouble, and not to an increase in fruiting.

Therefore, we bend the branches smoothly, slowly, in several passes, achieving the desired angle. By the way, in addition to frost, the wood of some trees is fragile in itself, even in spring. For example, if you bend pear branches, follow all the same precautions.

Read also our article The main mistakes when pruning fruit trees.

Necessary tools for shaping the tree. © Igor Bilevich The best option for bending a branch is to use wide strips of strong synthetic material. © Igor Bilevich

What accessories will be needed?

In principle, if you are a responsible gardener, you can use a strong rope or wire, tying it around a branch. And what about responsibility? The fact is that the tree grows, and the branches thicken, sooner or later this rope or wire of yours will begin to dig into the wood and block the outflow of nutrients from the crown to the roots (by the way, this will also increase productivity).

It is better not to do this, then this construction will grow into the bark and cripple the branch. The best, in my opinion, option is to use wide strips of strong synthetic material, about 20 cm long and 3-5 cm wide, on both sides of which metal eyelets are installed. I use them with a diameter of 14 mm. You can install them either in a special workshop, or on your own, using simple tools.

This mount has a large gap and does not interfere with the growth of the branch, moreover, it is reusable. Easily installed, removed, rearranged from branch to branch, from one tree to another. By the way, professional gardeners all over the world use these "collars".

In the right place, in order to maintain the correct angle of departure (approx. 60 degrees), a peg is driven into the ground at a slight angle, and the second end of the rope is attached to it. Of course, it turns out not very convenient - the ropes interfere with the passage and, most importantly, it becomes inconvenient to mow the grass near the trunk circle. You can try (and sometimes succeed) to attach the end of the rope to the stem of the tree itself. Then it turns out compact and even beautiful in its own way.

Usually branches are fixed for one season. They put it in winter or spring, so let it stand until autumn, as a rule, the branch “remembers” this position in a few months.

By the way, branches can be bent not only for fruit trees to increase yield, but also for ornamental ones, to eliminate “one-sidedness” and give the tree the desired crown shape.

Usually branches are fixed for one season. © Igor Bilevich

Read also our article Formative pruning of an apple tree - from a seedling to an adult tree.

Can I cut and fold?

Everything at first glance is good and simple, but there is a fly in the ointment in this barrel of honey. The fact is that the tree, by and large, "does not care" what you want from it, it wants and will grow upwards, towards the light. In practice, this leads to such a picture. You bend a branch, and the tree (usually closer to the bend) has released a lot of vertical shoots, as if in exchange for the bent one.

Therefore, the most important conclusion for a gardener is that once you start shaping a tree, whether it's pruning or bending, you can't throw it away. It is necessary from year to year and even more than once a year to continue what has been started - to remove the unnecessary or to bend down the next portion of vertical shoots.

The best option for me turned out to be a combination of two methods for the formation of fruit trees - pruning and bending branches. I mostly bend the branches of young trees, forming peculiar tiers, and on older trees I combine bending with pruning, trying to form a low bowl. In my opinion, this is the most successful and convenient form for any fruit tree.

There is still plenty of time before the start of the growing season and you can slowly study and try this “new” method on your trees, and you will always have time to prune, if anything.

By rejecting branches, we increase the yield

Sometimes you plant a tree, you wait a year, you wait two, three, but still no fruit. At least you take the axe. Do not hurry! Yes, there is a problem, but it is easily solved!

In the old days, peasant gardeners may not have much knowledge of biology, but they knew that a tree that did not want to bear fruit should be put to shame. To do this, pieces of bricks, cobblestones, old bast shoes were hung on its branches. And so, ashamed, it stood in front of everyone.

Of course, the age of fruiting depends on the biological characteristics of the plant, its type and variety, rootstock, climate, soil fertility. The cause of infertility can be both an excess of nitrogen, and an incorrect ratio of mineral-carbohydrate nutrition, thickening of the crown. Yes, and other nuances are possible.

In order for a tree to grow well and bear fruit, its crown must be properly formed. You can correct the errors of nature (and your own inept agricultural technology) in various ways. Most gardeners traditionally use pruning for this. But it turns out that it is possible to give the trees the desired shape and get good yields in another way. In particular, bending branches. This technique is often used Vladimir Krylovich creating his dream garden.

Usually fruit tree seedlings are sold completely unformed. Therefore, when planting, their branches must immediately be given the correct position - that is, as horizontal as possible.

The main thing that a novice amateur gardener should know is that a tree lays fruit when it does not have the opportunity to direct its vital forces in another direction. If nothing prevents the plant from reaching up, giving more and more new shoots, it will continue to grow, forgetting about fruiting.

It is important for us that the tree initially spreads out in width, and does not grow up, so that the main branches are located as horizontally as possible. It is in this position that they actively bear fruit.

In summer, the outflow of plastic substances to the roots slows down near bent branches. Nutrients are concentrated in horizontal shoots, which, in fact, contributes to the formation of flower buds.

The vertical branches of the tree are more busy with growth, while the horizontal ones direct all their forces towards fruiting. When the shoot begins to deviate from the vertical, the kidneys receive a signal to lay flowers. But if the branch is lowered too low, its growth may stop altogether, and after a few years it most often dries up.

- Vertical shoots grow well, but bear fruit poorly, while horizontal ones, on the contrary, are always strewn with crops, - Vladimir Anatolyevich confirms. - The number of planted flower buds depends on the length of the branching zone. She, in turn, is associated with the angle of departure of skeletal branches from the trunk. That is, the closer the departure angle is to 90 degrees, the more productive the shoot, albeit weaker in growth strength.

- How does bending work? What causes more flower buds to form?

- The thing is that the concentration of carbohydrates and proteins increases in the bent branch. Changing the angle of inclination affects both the distribution of growth hormones - auxins, and other substances that affect the formation of flowers. The slope of the branches is akin to banding.

Therefore, if you need to increase the growth of a branch, give it a position close to vertical. If, on the contrary, it is necessary to weaken it and thereby accelerate fruiting, bend it to the horizontal.

— How does the branch angle affect its growth and productivity?

- The optimal upper (!) angle for fruiting between the trunk and the bent branch is 60-90 degrees. Branches extending at an acute angle grow rapidly and bear fruit later. And since the bark is clamped and damaged in such forks, they easily break off.

A rift is a serious and painful wound for a plant, which is very difficult (almost impossible) to heal. Moreover, this applies to all fruit crops without exception, including cherries and sweet cherries - albeit to a lesser extent.

Do not leave shoots with an angle of departure less than 30 degrees as the main shoots: very often they begin to compete for leadership with the trunk and thicken the crown.

If sharp corners have been missed and the tree has been for many years, then cut such branches one at a time.

The larger the angle, the more securely the branches are fastened together or with the central conductor. As for the obtuse angle, such branches develop poorly.

- How and when to bend the branches?

Basically, at any time. But as practice shows, it is best to do this in the spring - when the sap flow begins. Wood at this time is soft and elastic. By autumn, the shoot will become woody and will forever remain in the position given to it. If for some reason you decide to bend the branches in winter, then keep in mind that the wood of many species becomes brittle in the cold. In some cultures, it is fragile even in spring. In the same pear, for example. So bend the branches smoothly, slowly, even in several passes.

- What are the easiest ways to achieve the desired deflection angle?

- There are many of them. The easiest and safest is to pull the shoots with a thick and soft rope. True, bending (such a strange term) is only suitable for young trees - 1-2 years after planting. It is important to have time before the lignification of the shoots, when they are still flexible and easy to bend, so as not to injure or break. Thick and old branches, alas, will not be able to spread like that.

A young shoot can be attached to neighboring, older branches, to the trunk or hanging loads on it - the same pebbles in rag knots. You need to tie the rope approximately in the middle of the branch. By no means beyond its top: it will bend in an arc. And the effect will be the opposite - tops will begin to actively grow on the hump, and flower buds will not be laid.

The loop around the shoot must be free. If the string is thin, then over time (as the branch thickens) it will cut into the bark. To prevent this from happening, put a piece of rubber, a plank or just sticks under it.

Tight dressing will immediately increase the yield, since the outflow of nutrients from the crown to the roots will be blocked. But over time, the branch above the constriction may dry out altogether.

They straighten the shoot, tying them to the pegs. In the spring, under the crown of a tree, drive four pins into the corners of the square and pull a rope or soft wire over them. Also, such a frame can be made from slats or thin poles by tying branches to them with twine that grow at an acute angle to the trunk.

Although this solution is simple, it is inconvenient from the point of view of further care of both the tree and the garden. The ropes will interfere not only with the passage, but also with the mowing of grass in the trunk circle. You can try (sometimes it succeeds) to fasten the end of the rope to the trunk of the tree itself: both compactly and even beautifully in its own way.

Wide rubber bands can also be used to fix branches. For example, I cut old car tires into rings.


- You can also correct the angle of the branch with spacers.

- Of course, by placing them between the trunk and the shoot. The best, in my opinion, option is wide strip-boards with holes along the edges. Such a homemade mount has a large gap that does not interfere with the growth of the branch. Not only that, it is also reusable. Easily installed, removed, rearranged from branch to branch, from one tree to another.

Some gardeners try to give the right direction to a bud that is just beginning to sprout with mini blanks made of durable plastic. First, they cut plastic into strips 2.5 cm wide. Every 2.5 cm round holes are made in them with a diameter of 0.5 cm to 1 cm - for branches of different thicknesses. Then the strip is cut into squares 2.5 × 2.5 cm with a hole in the center. After that, they are cut on one side to make it more convenient to work, and set above the kidney. Thanks to such plates, the branch angle is usually about 70 degrees.

- The principle is the same as when using a clothespin.

- Yes, it can also adjust the angle of departure, fixing it 2-3 cm above the place where the shoot grows. I spied on this technique from the doctor of agricultural sciences, professor, a well-known specialist in pruning fruit trees and the formation of different types of crowns Augustin Mika from Poland.

In order for young shoots to grow at an angle of 90 degrees, he fixes an ordinary clothespin (preferably wooden) over the bud. When it germinates, the shoot will hit the barrier and go at the right angle we need. In another way, that is, vertically, he simply will not be able to grow. And so that in the event of a strong wind the clothespin does not damage the bark, it wraps the shoot at the place of its attachment with a thin strip of cotton fabric.

- And if the branch has already grown and is 2-3 cm in diameter?

— Yes, it is already more difficult to bend such shoots: they break off, tearing up the bark. You can increase their angle of departure from the trunk only by first sawing. We make cuts from the bottom near the very base of the branch by about 1/4 of its diameter. With a thin sharp file at the bottom of the branch near its base, make 6-8 cuts at a distance of about 2 cm from one another. After the branch is bent, it must be fixed with two stretch marks to the pegs. Wounds from filing when tilted are clamped and quickly overgrown.

Usually a branch is fixed for one season. During these few months, she becomes woody, remembers her new position and does not return to the previous one.


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