How to make a red eyed tree frog

Red-eyed Tree Frog Care Sheet

Red-eyed tree frogs do well with a glass terrarium as their enclosure. This is because glass is great at allowing heat to escape ensuring that the enclosure stays cool enough. Other enclosures such as wooden vivariums are far too efficient at retaining heat.

The red-eyed tree frog's vivarium should be at least 450mm in length and 600mm in height. There are 2 main reasons for this; firstly the red-eyed tree frog is going to grow to around 3" so they need a space large enough for them to move around in. Secondly they are an arboreal frog so they need an enclosure with enough height for them to climb.


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Red-eyed tree frogs require a near constant air temperature of 75oF. This is best achieved by sticking a large heatmat on one side of the glass enclosure. This heatmat is regulated using a thermostat to make sure the temperature stays constant.

As the glass is only being heated on one side this also creates a small temperature gradient within the enclosure allowing the frog to warm itself up or move away to cool down.

If the enclosure is not able to get up to temperature with the heat mat alone a small basking bulb may be implemented in the canopy as long as the temperatures do not exceed 75-80oF.


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Red-eyed tree frogs are arboreal frogs from Central America. Animals that inhabit jungle regions do have some natural cover but still receive a fair amount of UV. Their UVB source should reflect this. In this kind of enclosure lights are generally held in a canopy above the mesh ceiling. In this canopy you can either implement a 5-6% UV tube or the equivelant compact light.

Red-eyed tree frogs require UVB in order to synthesise vitamin D3 inside their skin. The vitamin D3 helps the frog to absorb calcium which crucial for bone structure and growth. This is why reptiles can suffer from metabolic bone disease (MBD) when not provided with adequate UVB.

It is recommended that t5 tubes are replaced every 9 months and compact lamps are replaced every 6 months.


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Red-eyed tree frogs should be kept on a slightly moist substrate to increase the humidity inside the vivarium. Whilst any loose substrate has the potential to be accidentally swallowed, we have found this to not be a problem with coarse orchid bark and that is what we keep our red-eyed tree frogs on. It is also very easy to clean. If the humidity is not high enough with just this substrate we would recommend adding a small amount of moss to the enclosure.

Red-eyed tree frogs are an arboreal frog and they do like to climb on top of things to survey their surroundings. The terrarium should be decorated with various pieces of wood or vine to enable them to do this.

The tree frogs vivarium can be decorated with artificial plants for a more natural look. Natural wood ornaments look very effective and also provide further perches for the frogs. Trailing plants are very good at disguising electrical wires and equipment, as well as providing cover for young amphibians.


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Red-eyed tree frogs are carnivorous and have a diet consisting of mainly livefoods. The core of the livefood diet should be high in protien and relatively easy to digest. We have found that brown crickets are the most readily accepted, but you can also use black crickets or locusts (hoppers). On occasion, for variation you can offer other bugs such as mealworms, waxworms or calciworms.

The vivarium should be misted with water every morning to provide hydration. A water bowl may also be introduced as a source of freshwater.


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To provide the red-eyed tree frog with optimal nutrition and to keep them in the best of health, they will require diet supplementaion in the form of calcium, vitamins and minerals. These are most commonly available as powders

Any livefood for the gocko should be 'gut-loaded' with an insect food. This basically involves feeding the livefood a nutrient rich diet before they are fed to the red-eyed tree frog. Our livefood is delivered to you already gut-loaded but this should be continued at home.


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Red Eyed Tree Frog Care (Complete Habitat, Diet, & Care Guide)

Red eyed tree frogs are one of the most beautiful and colorful amphibians in the world.

Their typical coloration pattern in captivity includes a bright green body with darker blue sides that are mottled with vertically oriented, white patterns.

If one thing is for certain, it’s that the red eyed tree frog is a true eye catcher!

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About Red Eyed Tree Frogs

The name “red eyed tree frog” is derived from their bright red (almost crimson) eyes. In the wild, these tree frog use their unique eye and body coloration patterns to scare away predators and get out of sticky situations.

As long as you’re careful and informed, red eyed tree frogs generally don’t require anything too complex when it comes to their care.

That being said, new frog owner should do everything they can to provide their frog with basic requirements – these include a suitable substrate, a drainage layer at the bottom of the terrarium, and (of course) steady portions of water and food.

Throughout this complete guide, we will cover everything you need to know about red eyed tree frog care.

By the end, you should be able to set up the perfect red eyed tree frog habitat and care for your new pet.

Natural Habitat

Red eyed tree frogs generally live in lowland rainforests that are close to some kind of water course (river, lake, etc.).  As a “arboreal amphibian,” the red-eyed tree frog tends to dwell in trees and tall leafy plants. 

They spend much of the tadpole stage of their life in the water, only migrating to the trees as they age and mature.


Provided that they’re given proper care, red eyed tree frogs usually have a captive lifespan of at least 8 years (though it is possible for some to live all the way to 12).  10 years seems to be the average life span of red eyed tree frogs.


A fully grown red eyed tree frog will usually measure between 2 and 3 inches (although size may vary).

Females are generally larger than males, especially once they hit breeding age

Setting up a Red Eyed Tree Frog Habitat

There are quite a few things that you need to consider when putting together a red eyed tree frog habitat.

The most important thing to remember is that red eyed tree frogs are most comfortable when their setup closely resembles their natural environment (makes sense, right?).

This may sound tough, but we will cover everything you need to know in this section.

A few of the most important aspect to consider are tank size, temperature, materials, and substrate. Here is a more in depth look at creating a red eyed tree frog setup:

The Vivarium

Red eyed tree frogs are pretty small – as a result, people tend to cram them into enclosures that are way too small for their needs.

At minimum, one adult tree frog should be kept in a terrarium at least 15-20 gallons in size.

Since red eyed tree frogs naturally live in rain forest canopies, they prefer a habitat that has more height than width.

Our habitat of choice for red eyed tree frogs is the 18 x 18 x 24 Exo Terra Terrarium. It offers great height (which tree frogs love) and is actually large enough to house a second red eyed tree frog (in case you want to get your frog a friend in the future).

If you want to go with a cheaper option, 40 gallon breeder tanks can usually be found for pretty cheap at Petsmart (during their $1 per gallon sales) and can house 3-4 frogs.


Choosing a substrate for your habitat is generally pretty simple.

A few of the best red eyed tree frog substrates include moist paper towels (we will discuss this later), Zoo Med Eco Earth, orchid bark, and coco coir.

A lot of red eyed tree frog owners (especially beginners) simply use moist paper towels are their substrate of choice. But why? Here are a few reasons

  • Cheap: Paper towels are extremely affordable compared to other types of substrate
  • Easy to clean/replace: Moist paper towels can be collected and replaces in just a few minutes
  • Safe: Since there are no loose pieces, paper towels pose no impaction risk

Paper towels have one obvious downside – they definitely don’t look the best. If you’re looking for something more natural, I’d recommend going with Zoo Med Eco Earth.

This shredded coconut fiber substrate is 100% natural and helps maintain the humidity in your terrarium. Natural substrates are also preferable if you plan to keep live plants in your terrarium.

Overall, I’d recommend starting out with paper towels in your red eyed tree frog habitat (and switching to a natural substrate once you feel more comfortable).

Filling the Tank

Adding plants, branches, vines, and logs to your red eyed tree frog’s habitat is very important in helping it feel comfortable and secure.

As tree-dwelling animals, tree frogs really appreciate being able to climb throughout their enclosure.

Broad leaf plants generally work best for red eyed tree frogs. Here are a few species that we recommend:

  • Alocasia
  • Philodendron
  • Anthurium
  • Birdsnest
  • Chlorophytum

Keep in mind – these are live plants, so they will need some sort of light to keep them healthy.

If you would rather go with fake plants that don’t require any upkeep, Exo Terra artificial plants are pretty awesome. The Exo Terra Mardarin, Pandanus, Phyllo, are Scindapsus are personal favorites.


Exo Terra Plastic Terrarium Plant, Large, Mandarin

  • Extremely realistic replicas of real plants
  • Creates natural hiding spots for reptiles and amphibians
  • Large, hanging plastic plant

When it comes to branches, bamboo, cork bark, and driftwood all make excellent choices (either real or fake) for your frog to climb on.

When placing the branches, make sure they’re relatively high up in the enclosure so that your tree frog feels as though it’s climbing (as it might in its natural habitat).

Make sure the branches are secure so that your frog won’t fall mid-climb!

Artificial vines are another awesome addition – you can hand these around your vivarium to create an tropical oasis for your frog!

Red Eyed Tree Frog Diet and Hydration

Feeding you tree frog the proper types of food is extremely important for long term health.

Unfortunately, it can be a bit more complicated than just throwing in a few crickets every now and then.

Here is everything you need to know about red eyed tree frog diet, hydration, and supplementation:


Insects make up the vast majority of the red eyed tree frog’s diet. Here are a few types of insect that work well for regular feeders:

  • Crickets (main staple)
  • Silkworms (occasionally)
  • Hornworms (occasionally)
  • Dubia Roaches (occasionally)

Crickets will most likely be the main staple for your red eyed tree frog. They are cheap, readily available, and suitable for tree frogs of all ages. Feed each frog 3-6 crickets every 2-3 days.

It is very important that you “gut-load” your crickets about 24 hours before feeding them to your tree frogs.

Gut-loading refers to the practice of feeding your crickets beneficial foods before they are eaten by your frogs.

But what exactly should your crickets be munching down on?

It is recommended that you feed your crickets a mixture of fresh salad, carrots, veggies, and some sort of Vitamin D3 or calcium supplement (we will discuss this soon with our recommendation).

Red eyed tree frogs generally don’t touch greens by themselves – so feeding the crickets greens before they’re eaten by your frog is a great way to introduce nutrients to your frog’s diet.

Diet Supplementation

Supplementing your red eyed tree frog’s diet with Vitamin D3, calcium, and multivitamin supplements is a great way to keep your pet healthy.

We recommend supplementing your tree frog’s diet with a mix of Repashy Calcium Plus, Repti Cal with D3, and Rep-Cal Herptivite.

One way of getting supplements into your frog’s diet is by dusting its crickets.

Before feeding time, give your crickets a light mist with a spray gun. Next, place them in small plastic/paper bag and sprinkle some calcium powder on top. Shake the bag around (gently) until the crickets look adequately coated.

Another way of introducing calcium into your frog’s diet is by gut-loading crickets with the calcium/multivitamin powder.

Simply sprinkle some power on whatever you decide to feed your crickets (veggies, salad, etc) and then feed them to your frog.

Here is a sample feeding schedule for your red eyed tree frog:

  • Crickets dusted with Herptivite – one time per week
  • Crickets dusted with calcium/D3 – one time per week
  • Plain crickets without any dusting: one time per week

For juvenile tree frogs, we recommend that you dust their insects at every feeding – they need all the nutrients they can get!


Tree frogs stay hydrated by drinking and absorbing moisture through their skin. The best way to keep your frog hydrated is by keeping a large, shallow water dish in their habitat. The dish should be wide enough that your frog can fit inside comfortably.

In addition, the water should be shallow enough that your tree frog can rest inside comfortably without having to swim.

A good rule of thumb is that the water should be no higher than the frog’s mouth when resting.

The water dish should be washed and refilled on a daily basis.

It is also very important that you only use dechlorinated water in your tree frog habitat – both for the water bowl and for mistings.

Tap water should be avoided as it often contains chlorine and other chemicals that are bad for tree frogs. A gallon jug of bottled water will go a long way.

Lighting and Heating

When setting up a read eyed tree frog habitat, you’ll want top make sure you don’t forget the lighting and heating elements. These are important to recreate the light and warmth they would experience in their native rainforests.

Here is everything you’ll need to know about red eyed tree frog lighting and heating

Red Eyed Tree Frog Lighting

A lot of red eyed tree frog owners have recently started advocating the use of UVB bulbs in their frog enclosures.

UVB is important for tree frogs because it helps with the synthesis of Vitamin D3 (with is responsible for calcium absorption). Without UVB light, tree frogs are susceptible to Metabolic Bone Disease.

The best UVB light for red eyes tree frogs is the Zoo Med ReptiSun 5.0 T5. Tree frogs don’t need a ton of UVB light, so even a small bulb should work just fine. Also, make sure to provide them with a lot of shade.


Zoo Med Reptisun 5.0 T5-Ho Uvb Fluorescent Lamp - 24 w - 22"

  • Eliminates the risk of vitamin D3 overdose from synthetic sources
  • Increases appetite and physical activity, while helping to induce reproductive behaviors
  • Safe and beneficial for use with all types of reptiles, snakes, turtles, tortoises and amphibians...

In addition to a UVB bulb, you’ll also want to add some sort of “heat” lamp to one side of the terrarium for additional warmth (I say “heat” because red eyed tree frogs really don’t like it too warm or bright).

A 6500K LED bulb is perfect for red eyed tree frogs and will also help a ton if you plan to keep live plants.

If the ambient temperature in you red eyed tree frog’s enclosure fall below the optimal levels which we will discuss in the next section), you may want to invest in a ceramic heat emitter.

CHEs heat your tank without the use of any visible light, so they’re perfect for daytime and nighttime use alike (since they don’t upset your frog’s sleeping patterns). The Fluker’s Ceramic Heat Emitter is a perfect option.

Temperature Requirements

Digital thermometers are recommended for accurate temperature readings (since dial thermometers tend to be pretty inaccurate.

A 2-in-1 thermometer/hygrometer is a great all in one solution to take care of humidity and temperature readings together.

During daytime hours, ambient temperatures should site somewhere between 75 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

Slightly cooler nighttime temperatures are fine as long as it doesn’t fall below 70 degrees. If night time temperates fall below 70°F, invest in a ceramic heat emitter (as we discussed in the lighting section).


Humidity is especially important for red eyed tree frogs. Native to rainforests throughout Central America, humidity is essential for their health and comfort.

It is also important to ensure that the humidity of your tank stays within the desired range. In this section we will talk about what humidity levels you should aim for and how to achieve these.

Humidity Requirements

An important part of perfecting your red eyed tree frog habitat is knowing how to read humidity levels. Luckily, this can be easily done with a digital hygrometer. Stay away from dial hygrometers as they tend to be very inaccurate.

The optimal red eyed tree frog humidity level should sit anywhere between 70-80%. The best way to raise the humidity level in your setup is through simply mistings. Mist the tank twice a day with purified water until humidity levels reach the desired percentage.

Make sure to mist all of the enclosure’s decorations and branches, as red eyed tree frogs get most of their water by licking foliage and sticks.

Controlling your tanks humidity

Mistings should take place twice per day – once in the morning and once in the afternoon. For larger tanks, you might need to mist another few times throughout the day.

This can be done with a simple spray bottle, although there are also more advanced fogging systems on the market. If you decide to use a spray bottle, make sure that it is brand new and was never used for any cleaning solutions.

Once again, only mist your red eyed tree frog setup with purified bottled water. If you want to go a more advanced route, the Exo Terra Monsoon RS400 Rainfall System is a great option.

Tips and Tricks

Here are a few important tips and tricks regarding red eyed tree frog care:

Keeping your tank clean

Cleaning your red eyed tree frog setup on a regular basis is very important. Any waste that gathers on the bottoms should be removed as soon as possible.

Mold tends to grow quickly in humid environments, so wiping down your tree frog’s enclosure will really help keep it safe.

If you’re using a natural substrate (such as Zoo Med Eco Earth), it will most likely need to be replaced every few months.

Once again, watch closely for any mold growth, especially in substrates.

If you’re using any rocks in your terrarium, remove them occasionally for a good cleaning. Rocks and branches can be baked at 350°F for sterilization purposes.

One of the leading causes of death in red eyed tree frogs is something called “Red Leg Disease”, which occurs mostly from unsanitary habitat conditions.

As you can see, cleaning your frog’s habitat is not just for aesthetic reasons – it is also crucial to the safety of your pet.

Safe Feeding Practices

Adult red eyed tree frogs are perfectly fine eating full sized crickets. That being said, babies will most likely need smaller crickets for safe feeding. Crickets under 1/4 inch long should work well.

A general rule for sizing crickets is that they should be no wider than the distance between your frog’s eyes.


Unsurprisingly, red eyed tree frogs are not huge fans of being handles – most frogs aren’t.

While they can be handled without problem for a few minutes, red eyed tree frogs are too delicate to be handled regularly or for long periods of time. If you want something that you can hold/play with all the time, tree frogs may not be for you.

If you do decide to hold your frog, make sure you thoroughly rinse your hands before contact.

Tree frogs can absorb toxins and other harmful substances through their skin, so make sure your hand are clean as can be.

Other Resources

If you suspect that your frog is sick (or have any specific care questions), take him/her to the vet.

Although we do our best to help out all frog owners, sometimes specialized care is needed. Good luck with your new red eyed tree frog!

Last update on 2022-10-23 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Red-eyed tree frog. Red-eyed tree frog description report abstract information message photo presentation Feeding the red-eyed tree frog

Even if a person is not very friendly towards frogs, seeing him will completely change his initial opinion. This small bright frog with huge red eyes will not leave anyone indifferent and is called the red-eyed tree frog. Photos of these wonderful amphibians are presented in the article. The frog is small in size, its length does not exceed 7.5 cm. Its color is usually bright green, and yellow-blue stripes on the sides. The eyes, from which the frog gets its name, can range from orange to ruby. In addition to red eyes, frogs also have bright orange paws with large pads on their fingers.

Habitat and lifestyle

Tree frog house

These frogs are arboreal animals, they need a place to climb the branches, so the red-eyed tree frog prefers keeping in a spacious terrarium of rather big height. A pair of adult frogs will feel more or less comfortable in a seventy-liter aquarium with a height of 40 cm. But this is already a minimum. It is better to purchase an aquarium more spacious.

To prevent the frogs from escaping, the aquarium must be tightly closed. The lid can be solid, but it is better to use a partially mesh one. This way it will be easier to maintain the required level of humidity.

For the ground, special moistened foam rubber or coconut fiber can be used. If necessary, even a paper towel moistened with water, folded in layers, will do. This option will be very appropriate for keeping young frogs or frogs that are in quarantine. You can equip the terrarium with real soil with live plants. True, the complexity of caring for such a terrarium increases many times, but its beauty and naturalness fully compensate for the inconvenience. In addition to the soil, the terrarium must be equipped with twigs and snags for climbing and relaxing. To make the frogs hide and feel as natural as possible, you can add artificial or even live plants, grottoes and other decorative shelters.

Finally, you should pay attention that it is undesirable to use small pebbles and crushed bark for decorating the terrarium, since this material can harm the frog if it accidentally swallows it.

First of all, you need to remember that the red-eyed tree frog comes from the jungle, the tropical part of Central America. Based on these climatic features, humidity with temperature should be appropriate. The temperature is up to 28 degrees during the day and up to 24 - at night. Humidity can range from 80 to 100 percent. A very good solution to maintain the required temperature would be to use a small infrared light bulb. By the way, in its light you can watch the frog at night, when it is most active.

To maintain the required humidity, you can simply spray the terrarium 2-3 times a day. You also need to remember the need for the constant availability of clean water in the drinker. Water is not recommended to be used from the tap. Bottled is better for this purpose.


The red-eyed tree frog, like most other frogs, feeds on insects and other invertebrates. They are fed with crickets, moths, small silkworms, wax moth larvae. Flying insects and night moths - hawks can also be eaten. The main thing is to collect insects in places with no pesticides and herbicides. There are also special minerals designed for reptiles. When feeding adult tree frogs, these minerals provide every third or fourth feeding. And for young frogs, these additives are added to food all the time. This is done simply by sprinkling the main feed with mineral supplements.

Tree frog breeding in captivity

Red-eyed tree frog breeds reluctantly in captivity. It happens that you can not do without special chemical additives called human chorionic gonadotropin. Also, for tree frogs to breed, you must first create the illusion of a tropical winter. Humidity rises from 90%, and the temperature drops to 20-22 degrees. After one and a half to two months, it's time to raise the temperature to normal, and transfer the male and female to the terrarium for breeding. This terrarium should be half water. Water should be at a temperature of at least 25-26 degrees. The life expectancy of tree frogs in captivity is about ten years.

The red-eyed tree frog lives in South and Central America: in Guatemala, Mexico, Honduras, El Salvador, Costa Rica, Colombia, Nicaragua, Panama and Colombia.

The species was described by Cope in 1862. The Latin name of the red-eyed tree frog translates as "beautiful tree nymph."

Description of the red-eyed tree frog

Females are larger than males: the body length of females reaches 7.5 centimeters, and males - no more than 5.6 centimeters.

The red-eyed tree frog has a slender build. The body is covered with smooth skin. The main color of the body is green, on the sides of the body and on the base of the paws there is a blue color with a yellow pattern. The belly is cream or white, and the toes are orange. The coloration of red-eyed tree frogs may vary within their range. Certain individuals have small white spots in the back of the body.

The fingers are short, with pads at their tips, so red-eyed tree frogs climb rather than swim. The head is rounded, the eyes are large red with vertical pupils. The eyes are protected by a nictitating membrane that prevents dust from entering.

It is noteworthy that in Panama, juveniles are able to change color: during the day their bodies are green, and at night they turn red-brown or crimson. The eyes of the young are not red, but yellow.

The red-eyed tree frog is also called the "tree nymph".

Red-eyed tree frog lifestyle

The main habitats of these tree frogs are piedmont and lowland tropical forests, which most often grow on the banks of water bodies. These tree frogs live in the middle or upper tier of the forest, and settle there on lianas and plant leaves.

Tree frogs are nocturnal, and in the daytime they sleep on the underside of leaves, hiding from predators. When the tree frog is resting, a transparent membrane covers its eyes, while the frog can see. If she is in danger, she instantly opens her eyes and confuses the predator with her bright red color. These seconds are enough for the frog to instantly hide.

The main enemies of red-eyed tree frogs are snakes (mainly parrot snakes), small mammals, birds and tree lizards. The average life expectancy of the red-eyed tree frog is 3-5 years.

The bright color of the red-eyed tree frog deters predators.

Tadpoles are eaten by fish, turtles and various arthropods. And caviar is an object of food for wasps, cat-eyed snakes, fly larvae, monkeys and other living organisms. In addition, caviar dies from exposure to a fungal infection.

Red-eyed tree frogs, like other frogs, are carnivores. They feed on a variety of beetles, mosquitoes, flies, spiders, lepidoptera, frogs and small lizards, meaning they will eat any prey that fits in their mouths.

Red-eyed tree frogs are able to swim, have a good sense of touch and parabolic vision. At night, the tree frog wakes up, stretches and yawns.

Although red-eyed tree frogs have a frightening bright coloration, they are not poisonous, but their skin contains a large number of different peptides: caerulein, tachykinin and bradykinin.

Red-eyed tree frogs are actually non-poisonous frogs.

Red-eyed tree frog breeding

In the wet season, with the arrival of rains, tree frogs start breeding. The peak of activity falls on May-November. Mature males have resonator sacs, thanks to which they can make loud sounds.

Listen to the voice of the red-eyed tree frog

Competing with each other, males sing, thereby attracting a female. On dry nights they make sounds from the plants, and on rainy nights they sing on the ground, sitting at the base of the bushes.

When a female approaches a male whose song she has been attracted to, several males attack her at the same time. Then the female, with one male sitting on her back, descends into the water, and stays in the water for about 10 minutes, absorbing water through the skin. One female lays 30-50 eggs. The eggs are green, 3.7 millimeters in diameter, and by the time the larvae emerge, they increase in diameter to 5. 2 millimeters. Outside, the eggs are covered with an elastic gelatinous membrane that performs a protective function, since thanks to it the eggs become inconspicuous.

When the eggs are laid, the female returns to the water, where she restores the water balance. In one season, the female manages to mate with several partners and make about 5 clutches.

The incubation process takes 6-10 days. If the tadpoles are in danger, for example, a wasp attacked the clutch, or the pond is flooded, then they come out several days ahead of schedule. Most often, tadpoles from one clutch hatch at the same time, and the liquid released from the eggs washes them all into the water.

This tree frog uses its large, bulging red eyes as a defense mechanism called "fright color". When the frog closes them, its green eyelids help it blend in with the palette of green plants around it. If you approach a nocturnal frog during daytime sleep, it suddenly opens its eyes, which instantly discourages the predator, providing itself with a few seconds in order to escape. So big red eyes are by no means a tribute to fashion.

To emphasize the color of their eyes, these red-eyed frogs are bright green, sometimes with a yellow or blue tinge. Depending on the mood, the red-eyed tree frog can change skin color, becoming dark green or reddish brown. The belly and throat are usually white, and on the sides there is a pattern of vertical stripes of blue with a white border. The fingers are bright red or orange and equipped with suckers that allow them to sleep during the day, clinging tightly to the leaves in the rainforest, and at night to hunt insects and small frogs.

Females reach a size of 7.5 cm, males are slightly smaller - 5.6 cm. Like other amphibians, red-eyed tree frogs begin their lives as tadpoles in temporary or permanent reservoirs. As adult frogs, they are still dependent on water, and in order to keep their skin moist, they prefer to always be near water sources, which are abundant in tropical rainforests.

Red-eyed tree frogs can be found clinging to branches, trunks and even under tree leaves where they hide from predators. Adults live in the upper and middle tiers of tropical forests, sometimes they can be found inside bromeliads. Red-eyed tree frogs are predators, feeding mainly on insects. They prefer crickets, flies, grasshoppers and butterflies. Sometimes they do not disdain smaller relatives.

Frogs have historically been indicators of the health of an ecosystem or its impending vulnerability. Not surprisingly, the world's frog population has declined significantly in recent years, research shows that factors including chemical pollution from pesticide use, acid rain, and mineral fertilizer use weaken the ozone layer, increasing UV exposure, and can damage fragile eggs. Although the red-eyed tree frog is not endangered, its habitat is under constant threat.

Red-eyed tree frog (lat. Agalychnis callidryas) is one of the most beautiful frogs. It belongs to the genus Bright-eyed tree frog (Agalychnis) of the Hylidae family. She has a very funny muzzle with red eyes and a contrasting green-blue-yellow body. This wonderful creature has been living on our planet for about 10 million years.


Most of the frog spends in the trees, having learned how to skillfully hide from the ubiquitous predatory animals, and in case of detection, frighten them with his amazing outfit. The sly one is masterful at using bright colors to her advantage. Sitting on a green leaf, she pulls her legs close to her body, closes her eyes and becomes almost invisible. When a predator approaches, the amphibian opens its eyes and shows it its bright outfit in all its glory. So she confuses the enemy, and she herself is quickly removed.

Although the frog relies mainly on protective camouflage, it also has poisonous skin. The poison is not dangerous, but leaves a very unpleasant taste in the predator's mouth.

This little amphibian defies gravity by holding onto sticks, leaves and even glass.

On her legs are hexagonal nanopillars that cling to any surface. Between them there are channels through which mucus enters, giving the legs a wet adhesion, allowing, together with friction, to stick to any surface. The red-eyed tree frog inhabits areas near ponds and rivers in tropical forests and wet lowlands from Mexico to the central regions of Panama and northern Colombia. The optimum temperature for these amphibians is 25°-39°С, and at night 18°-26°С.


During daylight hours, the frog sleeps among the foliage, hiding its bright colors and covered with small yellow spots like a leaf. At night, when the risk to life is minimal, she becomes more active and goes hunting.

Moths, crickets, flies and other insects form the basis of her diet. To quickly swallow food, she closes her eyes. Its tiny teeth hold onto prey while its eyes retract into its body and push food down its throat. Although a tree frog can simply swallow food, this technique greatly speeds up the whole process.


The male uses vibrations to mark the territory and scare off competitors. Sitting on a branch, he creates waves that spread 1.5 m around. This place is enough for him to live comfortably.

The mating season begins with the advent of the rainy season and lasts from autumn to the first days of spring.

At this time, males descend to the ground and occupy areas near water bodies, over which branches of trees or shrubs hang.

They begin to give love signals at dusk after rain. On dry nights, the calls of gentlemen are heard from high branches in the canopy of trees. When the ponds are filled with water, a sonorous croaking is heard from the ground or from low-lying twigs. Often during singing, males change their location and send their arias in different directions. The females, having heard the croak, descend from the trees and choose partners, apparently guided by their singing and size.

The cavalier jumps on the lady's back and they go into the pond. There she draws water through the skin and wets the eggs. Then the couple climbs a tree and looks for a suitable place for masonry. For this purpose, the leaves of plants hanging over the water surface are suitable.

Eggs are attached to the underside of a wide sheet with a sticky mass.

If the clutch is on top of the leaf, then the parents hide it from the sun or predators by covering the top with the free part of the leaf. Then fertilization takes place. Sometimes a pair of frogs in love is attacked by a lone male and tries to nestle on the female's back. Such a strategy is successful, and then the eggs are fertilized by two males at the same time. From evening to morning, the female is able to make several clutches. Before each laying of eggs, she, together with the male, descends into the reservoir for the next set of water.

Since the clutch with eggs is attached to the vegetation hanging over the pond, the hatching tadpoles fall directly into the water. Some of them may end up on land. They have a chance to survive if it rains in the next 20 hours and washes them into a puddle. Embryos in eggs develop synchronously, but are born within 6-8 days. Some species of wasps and snakes like to dine on jelly-like masonry, so future tadpoles, feeling vibrations or movement, hatch prematurely and fall down.

In a few weeks they will turn into adult frogs and climb up the trees on their own. The amphibian becomes sexually mature at the age of 1-2 years, depending on the quantity and quality of food consumed. Body length does not exceed 5 cm. Females are larger than males.

Depending on the mood or environment, the frog is able to change the intensity of its color. The lifespan of red-eyed tree frogs in the wild is about 5 years, although they can live longer in captivity.

The red-eyed tree frog (Agalychnis callidryas) is an anuran amphibian of the tree frog family. The species was first described by Cope in 1862. The Latin name of the species is derived from the Greek words - kallos (beautiful) and dryas (tree nymph).

The red-eyed tree frog is a small animal with large bright red eyes with vertical pupils and a nictitating membrane. The fingers are short, with thick pads, on which there are suction cups that help to move along the leaves.

The red-eyed tree frog is widespread in Central and South America (Mexico, Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Belize, Colombia, Panama). It mainly lives in tropical rainforests, near water. Inhabits the upper and middle tiers of trees. During the day and during the dry season, they hide on the underside of broad leaves.

The color of these amphibians varies within the range, the main color is green, on the sides and at the base of the paws is blue with a yellow pattern, the fingers are orange. The belly is white or cream. Some individuals have small white spots on the back. Young tree frogs (in Panama) can change their color: during the day they are green, and at night they turn purple or red-brown. Juveniles have yellow eyes instead of red ones.

Size: female - 7.5 cm, male - 5.6 cm. Life span: 3-5 years.

The main enemies are reptiles: snakes (eg parrot snakes Leptophis ahaetulla), lizards and turtles, birds, small mammals (including bats). Cat-eyed snakes (Leptodeira septentrionalis), wasps (Polybia rejecta), monkeys, fly larvae Hirtodrosophila batracida and others prey on eggs. Fungal infections, such as Filamentous ascomycete, affect eggs. Tadpoles are preyed upon by large arthropods, fish and water fleas.

The red-eyed tree frog is a carnivore that eats various animals that are placed in the mouth - insects (beetles, flies, moths) and arachnids, lizards and frogs.

Red-eyed tree frog is nocturnal. They have parabolic vision and a good sense of touch. During the day, frogs sleep on the underside of green leaves, hiding from predators. While resting, their eyes are covered with a translucent membrane that does not prevent the frogs from seeing. If a predator attacks a red-eyed tree frog, it sharply opens its eyes and their bright red color confuses the attacker. At the moment when the predator froze, the frog runs away. When night falls, tree frogs wake up, yawn and stretch. Despite their bright frightening color, red-eyed tree frogs are not poisonous, but their skin contains a large amount of active peptides (tachykinin, bradykinin, caerulein and demorphin).

Breeding begins with the first rains at the beginning of the wet season. Mating occurs throughout the season, but is especially frequent in June and October. At this time, males make aggressive calls to distance other males and calls to attract females. The dominant frequency of emitted sounds ranges from 1.5-2.5 kHz. Vocalization begins with the onset of twilight and is especially intensified during rain.

When a female goes down to the males, several males can jump on her at once. As soon as amplexus occurs, the female, with the male sitting on her back, descends into the water and remains there for about ten minutes in order to absorb water through the skin. After that, the female lays her eggs on the leaves (one egg each, 30-50 in total), which hang over the water. During the breeding season, a female may mate with several males and lay up to five clutches.

The total number of red-eyed tree frogs in nature is decreasing due to habitat destruction.

Scientific classification:
Kingdom : Animals
Type : Chordates
Class : Amphibians
Detachment : Tailless
Family : Frogs
Genus : Bright-eyed tree frogs

Compatibility Aquarius (female) - Libra (male)

Why does a fur coat dream in a dream?

Red-eyed tree frogs - the most popular terrarium frogs

Red-eyed tree frog or red-eyed tree frog (Agalychnis callidryas) - one of the most popular and beautiful domestic terrarium frogs. Its most noticeable and characteristic feature is its bright red eyes, which gave the tree frog its original name.

The body of the red-eyed tree frog is light green with blue stripes on the sides, interspersed with white, although the frog can change its color to blend in with its surroundings.

And she can also give odds to the Olympic champion in jumping.

Content of the article:

  • 1 Description with red -eyed Kwakshi
  • 2 Kvakshshi red -eyed Kvakshi
    • 2.1 Terrarium
    • 2.2 Light
    • 2.3 Bess and decorations 902 9

Description of the red-eyed tree frog

For their ability to make long jumps, the red-eyed tree frogs were called "frogs-monkeys". With their small size (body length of females up to 7.7 cm, males up to 5.9cm) red-eyed tree frogs can make very long jumps - up to 1.5 meters.

These are nocturnal frogs, so it is difficult to see their activity during the day. But if you lightly touch its skin, the frog will wake up and look at you with its huge red eyes.

Red-eyed jumpers live in tropical rainforests. As befits amphibians, frogs swim well. During the day and during the dry season, beauties hide on the underside of broad leaves.

Frogs are not poisonous as one might think, and their bright colors are just camouflage, the only way they can protect themselves. In general, the small size makes frogs almost invisible to snakes, spiders, bats and birds.

The long legs of these frogs are better suited for climbing trees than swimming, and the suction cups on each toe make it easy to move on vertical surfaces, including wet leaves and tree trunks.

Interestingly, the average number of stripes on the sides of frogs of different populations increases from north to south from 5 in Mexico to 9 in Panama.

How long these frogs live in nature is not known, but they are very hardy when kept in a home terrarium. Under the right conditions and care, these terrarium tree frogs will delight you for up to 10 years or more. The average life expectancy in a terrarium is 10 years.

These lovely red-eyed frogs are not difficult to keep if all requirements are met. They are active at night, so they wake up just in the evening when the whole family is at home.

They are funny, interesting to watch, and especially interesting to watch their color change. Red-eyed tree frogs can change color while hunting from light green to dark brown, depending on their environment.

The red-eyed tree frog is an excellent home terrarium frog, suitable for both beginners and experienced breeders. For the first time in the home terrarium, these frogs appeared in the middle or late 80s, they were brought from Honduras. It is assumed that there are several species of these frogs.

Red-eyed tree frog keeping


All standard glass reptile terrariums are ideal for keeping red-eyed tree frogs. Ready-made frog cages are easy to clean, available in a variety of sizes, retain heat well, and maintain moisture.

The recommended volume of the terrarium for keeping an adult red-eyed tree frog is 75 liters. In such a terrarium, you can keep 3-4 frogs at home. In a smaller terrarium, frogs can be injured when they jump against the glass.

Young animals can be kept in a smaller container, but they grow quickly, so a larger one will be needed very soon.

Light and warmth

Red-eyed tropical tree frogs should be kept at moderately warm air temperatures during the day. In the room where the terrarium is located, the temperature should not exceed 27°C, the optimum temperature in the terrarium is 25-28°C.

Temperatures can drop to 15°C at night, but as they are nocturnal animals, a warmer nighttime environment is recommended.

If you live in warm regions, or during the summer months when the temperature is quite high, additional heating may not be required. However, if the temperature drops below those recommended, an additional heat source is needed.

Low power incandescent lamps, up to 60 W, or heaters that provide gentle heat without excessive drying are suitable for heating. Red lamps are great as they can be left on at night to keep the frogs warm 24 hours a day.

Dedicated full spectrum lighting is not necessary for red-eyed frogs to live normally in captivity, but weak ultraviolet (UVB) lamps will be useful. Such lamps will not only help you observe animals, but will be useful for planted live plants in the terrarium and provide frogs with UV rays.

Substrate and decorations

There are several requirements for the substrate used for the red-eyed tree frog. It must maintain the required level of humidity, but it must also be easy to clean, resistant to mold and fungus.

Coconut products such as EcoEarth, CocoSoft and others pressed into coconut bricks or coconut flakes are ideal for this purpose. Orchid bark or sphagnum moss is also suitable. All this can be found in specialized stores.

Red-eyed tree frogs are tree frogs and require a variety of climbing climbing aids. Branching sticks, decorations made from tree bark, live and artificial plants must be used to create a comfortable natural environment for frogs. You can recreate a real living tropical corner that will decorate your home.

Plants (living or plastic) choose with large, broad leaves as they are more in line with the frogs' surrounding plants in nature, and are suitable for hiding and sleeping. Live plants need to be tolerant of high temperatures and high humidity, as well as your lighting conditions. You may need an additional source of light if the plants wither.

Water and humidity

In the terrarium, the red-eyed tree frog must have a large shallow dish of water. These frogs rarely swim, however the large surface area of ​​the water is needed to increase the humidity of the environment in the terrarium and will provide the frogs with an emergency retreat if the temperature gets too high.

The humidity level in the frog room should be moderate to high. However, the room should not become damp. In most cases, two sprays of water per day are enough to maintain the required humidity.

Water is sprayed from a spray gun onto the substrate, decorations, terrarium walls, etc. You can spray the liquid manually or you can use automated systems, especially if you are away for an extended period of time.

Food and nutrition

Red-eyed tree frogs are insectivorous frogs, in captivity will feed on crickets (grasshoppers) and other feeding insects. Some adult frogs will eat a variety of worms, but most prefer grasshoppers at any age.

On sale you can find specialized food for terrarium frogs - canned grasshoppers. These are specially dried grasshoppers that retain all the nutrients. But you can feed live food, if possible.

Make sure the food is the right size for the frogs to eat. An adult tree frog is able to swallow even the largest cricket, but babies need tiny grasshoppers, no more than 0.5 cm long.

All foods are regularly sprinkled with high quality calcium and vitamin D3. This is especially important for young, growing frogs, who should be supplemented at every feeding. Adult frogs may take this supplement less frequently.

In addition to the calcium supplement mentioned above, reptiles also need a multivitamin. They are given in powder form once or twice a week.

Always read the instructions for use of both calcium and vitamin supplements for correct dosing, as they differ from manufacturer to manufacturer.

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