How to make a spooky tree
DIY Halloween Creepy Tree - The Craft Crib
Say hello to the newest addition to my Halloween yard decor… the Creepy Tree.
Isn’t he freaky!?!? I’m so stoked about how he turned out. I often take on big projects that don’t turn out the way I expect them to and I’m bummed, but this one really makes me smile.
Check out my materials list and instructions if you want to build one of your own. Read through all the instructions, because I learned a few things along the way that I’d do differently a second time.
Steel Wire Fencing
Newspaper or Brown Paper Bags
PVC Piping (I used 1/2″)
3 PVC Elbows (I used 1/2″)
Wooden Dowels (to fit inside PVC)
Foam Paint Roller
Foam Paint Brush
First thing I did was build out the body of the tree. I used some steel garden fencing I had leftover from another project. I think I originally got it at Lowes.
I essentially shaped the wire into a tube and used my floral wire to “sew” the seams together.
Suggestion: You could also use heavy duty cardboard concrete tubes to make the base. That’s what I was originally planning, but I couldn’t find any. I settled for whatever I already had.
For the roots, I used some brown paper grocery bags I got from my very helpful neighbors. I crumpled the paper to give it some dimension and twisted and shaped it to look like roots (thick at the top and tapering out to a point).
I wrapped my roots in floral wire and used the wire to attach them to my tree body. If you end up using the concrete tubes, you can always duct tape the roots to the body.
I decided I needed a flat base. I found a wooden circle I had in my scrap wood pile from another project. I drilled itty bitty holes in it to put the floral wire through and secure it to my base.
Suggestion: I used a very thin piece of wood. If I could do this again, I’d use something much thicker and heavier. My tree is top heavy and I can’t put it anywhere but on a completely flat surface.
I ran out of my steel fencing at some point, so I borrowed some chicken wire from another helpful neighbor and used that to complete the rest of the body. I don’t suggest using the chicken wire if you can help it, but it was all I had at the time.
Once I secured the chicken wire, I built out the arms. I used PVC pipes I already had. I connected two longer pipes together with an elbow piece and threaded them through the chicken wire so they were pointing up and out. I used my floral wire to secure the elbow to the inner back part of the tree’s body. Then I put two more elbows at the end of each pipe to act as… well, elbows. I connected two shorter pipes to the elbows.
I went into my back yard and picked out a bunch of sticks.
I snapped a few to get them the lengths I wanted. Then I wired two sets of five together to create creepy hands.
Then I secured a dowel rod to the end of each hand. I forgot a picture of this specific step, but some of my future steps will show you what I mean. The dowel rod hung off the end of the hand so it could slide easily inside the PVC for the arms. I did this to make storage and transport of the tree easier. I didn’t want the twig hands catching on everything, getting in the way, or snapping and looking silly.
Next, I used my wire cutters to cut out a face from the chicken wire. I used my floral wire to reinforce the chicken wire and give the eyes and mouth a definitive shape.
Next, I added a wooden crown to the top of the body. This part is optional. I just wanted something that made it look even more creature-like, while still clearly being a tree. I pulled some triangles out of my scrap wood pile and drilled little holes in them with my Dremel and used the floral wire to attach them.
Next, I started applying the foam spray to the whole piece. I started by using it to secure the roots to the base of the tree. The foam expands as it dries, so it’s great for filling in cracks and empty space.
I sprayed the foam in long strands all the way up the tree.
It worked great for the steel fencing. It attached well to it. However, the spaces between the chicken wire were too big and the spray wouldn’t attach. This is why I suggested not using the chicken wire. I ended up wrapping the chicken wire in plastic wrap.
That honestly wasn’t the best option either. The foam was peeling right off it when it dried.
Suggestion: Just use the steel fencing for the entire body or use the cardboard concrete tubes I mentioned. If chicken wire is all you have, then wrap the chicken wire in newspaper or brown paper bags before adding the foam spray.
I used more foam spray than I originally anticipated. Since I was using steel fencing, the foam was adhering well, but it was also seeping through the gaps, causing me to need more. I should have covered the entire body in newspaper before spraying. I think I would’ve needed much less. The paint covers any gaps anyway.
I rolled up and taped paper over the PVC pipes to make the arms thicker.
I spray every surface with foam spray, even the arms and wooden crown. Again, I probably could’ve used a lot less if the base had been more solid. See how the paper arms didn’t need to be fully covered in foam? They had paper underneath that provided it’s own layer of texture.
Once the foam dried, I used a coping saw to remove some of the larger foam bubbles. It also served to rough up the surface a bit and make it more rustic and tree-like.
Next step was painting. I started by trying to spray paint a layer of black. However, I was going through paint too quickly and I wasn’t happy with the coverage.
So, I busted out a pint of black paint and a cheap brush and just got to work covering the entire thing. It took much longer than spraying, but it was totally worth it and much more environmentally friendly.
I let the black paint fully dry. I made sure to paint my creepy hands as well (see dowel rods I mentioned in an earlier step).
Once the paint was dry, I mixed up some brown paint. I didn’t have brown on hand, so I mixed some red and green together until I got the shade I wanted.
I poured the brown paint into a tray and used a foam roller to start rolling it over the roots. I didn’t want the tree fully covered like the black paint. Just enough to give it dimension and bring out the roots.
I did a heavy-handed roll over the entire tree, arms and hands included.
I let the entire thing fully dry again. Then I busted out a foam brush and some white/cream paint (a sample I had on hand).
I dipped the brush in the white paint and wiped as much of it off as I could. Then I lightly scraped the brush up and down the tree, grazing the bark. Just enough not to cover up the black or brown.
Then I cut out a piece of black fabric and taped it to the inside of the tree where the eyes and mouth are.
This creepy tree is freaking awesome! His crown kind of makes him look like the Night King in Game of Thrones. And the roots that curled up a bit when the foam dried in the heat make him look a bit like Ursula from the Little Mermaid. Those are two terrifying creatures, so I think maybe I did something right.
Happy (almost) Halloween!
Check out my creepy tree I made out of gingerbread, too!
Other Halloween Posts:
Giant DIY Spider
Spider Web Lanterns
Pallet Wood Pumpkin
Harry Potter Wands
Thrift Store Candelabras
Wrought Iron Fence
Magic Potion Bottles
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DIY Spooky Tree (How to Make Spooky Halloween Trees)
by Gina · Published · Updated
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DIY Spooky Tree
Here is a DIY Spooky Tree I created as one of my Halloween decorations. I love the look of trees as they transition into fall so thought it would be fun to create a creepy Halloween tree. Even though he has a scary face, I think he came out kind of cute.
He is easy and very inexpensive to create. I used recycled items and things I had around the house. The only materials I had to buy were LED lights for the inside of the stump. The trunk is made from an oatmeal container, the branches from twisted brown paper bags and the bark texture is crumbled tissue paper painted with a solution of white glue and water. I also used thin wire to position the branches. It is a paper and wire Halloween Tree.
Download my printable pattern for the spooky tree creepy face.
Here is video showing how I made the DIY Creepy Tree.
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I upload new DIY videos every week!
Here is how to make a spooky tree (Step-by-Step Instructions)
- Pattern for the spooky tree creepy face
- Oatmeal Container
- Brown Packing Paper
- Tissue Paper
- White Glue
- Dark Brown, Light Brown, Black and Yellow Acrylic Paint
- Thin Wire
- Faux Leaves
- LED Lights
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How to Make Spooky Halloween Trees:
- Draw a spooky face on a piece of paper or print my pattern for the spooky tree creepy face. Tape it to the oatmeal container.
- Cut out the face with a craft knife.
- Twist pieces of brown packing paper or a paper bag to make the branches and arms. Add pieces of wire in the arms and branches to give them a good shape. Attach to the oatmeal container with craft glue.
- Glue the oatmeal container to a cardboard base and add twisted pieces of paper to the base to form roots. Attach strips of tissue to the container using white glue.
- Paint the entire tree with white glue and let dry…this will secure everything and keep the branches from unraveling. Glue twigs to the end of the branches to give the tree a more lifelike look.
- Paint the tree with different colors of brown to make it look like bark and paint the inside yellow.
- Glue leaves and moss around the base and fill with lights.
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Cut down a tree. How to do it safely and effectively? | Construction and design | Dacha
Estimated reading time: 5 minutes
3495"AiF. At the dacha" No. 22. Kitchen garden: discoveries of the 2017 season 21/11/2017
Alexander Goncharov, a leading specialist of a company producing chainsaws and gardening equipment, tells .
Think through the whole process from start to finish, prepare tools and equipment. Dress appropriately for safety. Don't get down to business without a hard hat, earmuffs and goggles. Comfortable closed shoes should be on the feet, and thick non-slip gloves on the hands.
Required tools: saw (best chain, gas or electric), felling shovel (for medium-sized trees) or special aluminum or plastic wedges (for large trees) and hammer.
Do not try to use improvised tools as a wedge or felling shovel, for example, an ax or a nail puller. Everything related to felling a tree is potentially associated with an increased danger to human life. In this regard, tools and accessories must be used exactly those that are specially designed for this purpose.
Determine the affected area
Carefully inspect the tree and estimate in which direction it will be pulled when it falls. Usually in the same one where it is deviated from the vertical (there are practically no even specimens). A one-sided crown also indicates the direction of natural fall - to the side where there are more branches and they are longer, it is easiest to fell a tree. Adjust for wind strength and direction. Make sure that buildings, power lines or other large obstacles do not interfere with your task.
If the natural direction of felling does not suit you, it is better to abandon plans to do everything yourself and invite specialists. The same should be done if diseased bark, rot or dust is visible in the lower part of the trunk - in this case, it is more difficult to predict the trajectory of the tree's fall.
Clear the area
Prepare the area for the tree to rest on. On its opposite side, prepare a retreat path (sector with an angle of 45): when the trunk starts to fall, nothing should prevent you from quickly stepping back. At the moment the tree falls, you cannot stand next to it - it happens that the butt abruptly throws the lumberjack in the direction.
Level the trunk
Cut off all branches and branches that are from the ground to shoulder level. The safest way to cut them with a chainsaw is from top to bottom. Do not forget to remove everything cut from the waste zone. Make sure that there are no people in the danger zone.
Saw the right way
If you just cut the trunk completely, the tree will fall in an uncontrolled direction, which is very dangerous. Therefore, everything is done in three steps. First, cut a wedge from the trunk from the side of the intended fall (see figure), and then make the main cut from the opposite side, which will make the tree fall. At the same time, it is very important that an untouched section of the trunk remains between the wedge and the cut - the so-called undercut, which will play the role of a hinge and hold the tree, allowing the felling process to be directed and safe. Please note: the underdip must have the same width along its entire length.
To prevent the trunk from jamming the saw guide bar during sawing, insert a guide wedge or felling blade into the cut in good time. Use them also to complete the felling process: having reached the desired width of the undercut, remove the saw and use a spatula (using its handle as a lever) or drive in a wedge to fell the tree. As soon as it starts to fall, quickly move back a few meters.Click to enlarge
Make a notch 1 (cut a segment in the direction of the expected felling direction). The notch length should be about 80% of the trunk diameter.
Make the main cut 2.
Leave a cut 3. Stop sawing and use only special tools such as a wedge or spatula to complete the directional felling process. It is this segment that should be of a regulated size and have an equal width along the entire length (about 10% of the diameter), which will ensure safety at work.
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How to grow an avocado at home
February 6, 2019LikbezDo it yourself
Step-by-step instructions for those who want to get a real tree.
1.Buy an avocado attuale.ru
Choose a dark green fruit that is quite soft to the touch.
If you don't find a ripe avocado, don't worry. Take an unripe fruit. Put it together with bananas or apples for a couple of days. The ethylene they release will help the fruit ripen faster.
2. Separate the seed from the pulp
Carefully cut the fruit into two halves.
Remove the seed from the pulp with your hand or a spoon. Rinse it under warm water.
Use the pulp the right way 🥑
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3. Sprout the seed
You can plant an avocado at any time of the year. If the bone is not damaged, the probability of seedlings is quite high.
Using a knife, awl or thick needle, make three or four small holes 2-3 mm deep in the stone. Insert toothpicks or sharpened matches into them.
Pour filtered or, for example, settled water for watering flowers into a small container.
Position the bone so that the blunt end is in the water. Toothpicks resting on the edges of the container will not let it sink.
Keep the water at the same level and change every few days. But make sure that the puncture sites do not get wet.
Instead of water, you can use hydrogel, which is sold in shops with houseplants. Its level should also be below the punctures.
Place the container of avocados on a windowsill or other well-lit place.
The root will hatch in one and a half to two weeks, although its appearance may be delayed for a month. When it reaches 3-4 cm in length, remove the toothpicks and transplant into the ground.
Remove the outer shell from the bone, being careful not to damage it.
Place in a small narrow vessel so that it is about halfway in the water and not tipped to one side.
When the root reaches 2-3 cm a couple of weeks after germination, transplant the seed into a pot.
Simply place the stone in a pot of soil so that ⅔ of it is on the surface. If you dig deeper, it might just rot. The pot should be as described in #4 and the soil as described in #5.
Water every 2-3 days. This method is the easiest, but you will have to wait a few months before the first shoots appear.
4. Choose the right potornamentalis.com
Take a plastic or ceramic pot with drainage holes in the bottom. Its depth should be no more than 10–15 cm. For the first time, this will be enough.
5. Fill the pot with the right soilhvorast.com
Mix universal potting soil with coarse sand and peat in proportions 1 : 1 : 1. This will make the soil loose.
When choosing, keep in mind that the soil for avocados should be neutral (pH = 7), not acidic.
Use gravel or expanded clay as drainage.
6. Plant the seed if you germinated it in water or hydrogel. Fill in the soil and loosen well. Make a small indentation on the surface.
Plant the seed so that it is about half in the ground, no more. Try not to damage the roots during planting.
Water your seedling. Make sure the soil is moist but not swampy. From excess moisture, the bone can become moldy.
7. Put in a bright and warm placeattuale.ru
Position the pot so that it has enough light. Ideal for window sills. The temperature should be room temperature.
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8. Proper care
Do not put the pot in the shade, otherwise the plant will not develop normally. Water the avocado once every 3-4 days in the warm season and a little less often in the cold. Don't let the soil dry out completely.
Spray regularly when seedlings appear. If the air in the room with avocados is very dry, you can put a small container of water next to it to increase humidity.Monika Baechler
In the first months, the avocado will stretch rapidly upwards and can reach 50 cm. Then the growth rate will slow down. When there are more than eight leaves on the shoot, pinch it. Carefully remove the very top with a knife or scissors. After do not forget to rinse the instrument.
As soon as you notice that the avocado starts to stretch, pinch it. So you get a tree with a neat crown.
If possible, keep avocados outside during the summer. With the onset of autumn coolness, return the plant to a warm room. Do not leave outside if the temperature drops below +10 °C.
9. Fertilize and transplant avocadosnewderevo.ru
In the warm season, fertilize once or twice a month with houseplant products.
Replant young avocados annually for the first five years. Then the interval between transplants can be increased to three years. Each time choose a pot with a slightly larger diameter.
When transplanting, take care not to damage the root system. Just transfer the earth ball into a new container and add the right amount of earth.
10. Help an avocado bear fruitlivejournal.com
With proper care, a tree can start to bloom.