How to make a tree frog habitat


How to Set Up a Tree Frog Terrarium

Tree frogs are arboreal, which means they spend most of their time in trees. In captivity, they don’t have access to trees but branches, sticks, vines, and plants will keep them happy. Vertical space is a must. Terrariums at least 18 inches in height will suffice.

The overall size (width, depth, and height) depends on the number of frogs you’re keeping. As for the setup, well, that’s what this post is for.

I’ll explain everything you need to set up a great tree frog enclosure; from terrariums sizes and brands to helpful tips for decorating, and everything in between.

Page Contents

  • 1 Basic Cage Setup for Tree Frogs
    • 1.1 Step 1: Choosing Your Terrarium
    • 1.2 Step 2: Preparation
    • 1.3 Step 3: Add the Substrate
    • 1.4 Step 4: Add Branches, Sticks or Logs
    • 1.5 Step 4: Add Plants and Vines
    • 1.6 Step 5: Add the Small Water Dish
    • 1.7 Step 6: Add the Lights, Thermometer, and Hygrometer
    • 1. 8 Step 7: Mist the Enclosure
  • 2 Introducing Your Tree Frog to its New Enclosure

Basic Cage Setup for Tree Frogs

Setting up a tree frog enclosure consists of creating climbing areas in a vertically oriented terrarium. Through the usage of branches or sticks, vines, and plants, a person can create the ideal habitat for any arboreal species.

It’s important to remember, this guide won’t work for every type of tree frog. Each one is different, requiring different temperatures and humidity levels.

The basic build will get you started, but it’s up to you to learn the precise conditions needed to keep your pet treefrog happy and healthy.

This can be accomplished by reading care sheets. Find out the recommended temperature, humidity level, and whether or not your special lighting is required.

These factors will determine whether or not you need more equipment like automated misting systems, foggers, UVB lighting, a heating mat, etc. Use this guide as a base example on how to set up a treefrog terrarium.

Step 1: Choosing Your Terrarium

Before you can do anything, you need a terrarium. Chances are, you’ve already got one but if you don’t, I’ll point you in the right direction. As I already mentioned, you need a tall terrarium. That is, something taller than it is wide. As for the terrarium size, well that depends on the number of frogs you’re keeping and their overall size once they’re full-grown.

  • 12″ x 12″ x 18″ terrarium will house 1 – 2 treefrogs. Again, this depends on the type of tree frog and how big they get. You can put 2 full-grown Red-Eyed Tree Frogs in a terrarium this small because they’re not very big. On the other hand, White’s Tree Frogs grow much larger, so two of them would need a larger enclosure.
  • 18″ x 18″ x 24″ terrarium can hold 3 – 4 tree frogs. So it really comes down to the full-grown size of the frogs you’re keeping, and how many you want in the same cage. Keep in mind, you can use just about any size container 18″ in height or taller. However, the two sized mentioned above are the most common sizes for tree frogs. They’re also relatively inexpensive compared to larger terrariums.

So, here are my recommendations. If you’re a first-time amphibian owner, I recommend getting a tree frog terrarium kit. Exo Terra, Zoo Med, and Zilla all have kits that work well for arboreal frogs.

You will probably still need to buy a few items, but as a whole, it comes with most of the things you need to get started. Otherwise, if you’re not a new herpetoculturist and you’ve got some extra supplies lying around, you may opt for getting just the terrarium itself.

ImageDescription
Exo Terra Rainforest Habitat Kit, Small
This is an excellent starter kit. Great for 1 – 2 tree frogs. (12x12x18)
Exo Terra Rainforest Habitat Kit, Large
My favorite starter kit. Houses 3 – 4 tree frogs. (18x18x24)
Zilla Tropical Vertical Kit
An awesome starter kit from Zilla. 1 – 2 adult tree frogs. (12x12x18)

I did a review of the various frog terrarium starter kits and, in my personal opinion, the Exo Terra Rainforest Habitat Kit offers the best deal. Especially at the time of writing this guide, the small habitat kit is on sale for $85.06 on Amazon, plus free shipping if you have Prime.

I don’t know how long the sale will last, but it’s worth checking the link to see if they’re still on sale. As for the Zoo Med Naturalistic Terrarium Frog Kit, it’s kind of hard to find.

They’re sometimes available in pet stores but I wasn’t able to find one online. Anyway, once you’ve got your terrarium, move on to step 2.

Step 2: Preparation

Once you’ve purchased your terrarium and you’re ready to set everything up, place the terrarium in the spot you want to keep it. When everything is set up, the terrarium will be heavy. Heavy enough you won’t want to be moving it anywhere. It’s a good idea to do the set up where you plan to keep it forever. Or at least for a while.

Before we begin adding things to the enclosure, it’s a good idea to clean the glass with a towel and distilled water. The only point in doing this is to remove any lingering dust.

Be mindful not use to chemical cleaners as it might be harmful to your delicate amphibians. Also, tap-water high in calcium will eventually lead to calcium build up. To avoid this, use distilled water instead.

Step 3: Add the Substrate

Now we’re ready to start adding everything into the enclosure. The first thing is the substrate. In most cases, this will be coco fiber or similar substrates. Because tree frogs are arboreal, they won’t be spending much time on the ground.

Either way, it’s best to give them a non-particulate substrate to save them from impaction. Eco Earth and Plantation soil are both great options. They’re cheap and come in compressed bricks like the one in the picture above. Follow the directions to prepare the substrate for use.

Depending on the requirements of the treefrog you’re keeping, it might be wise to set up a drainage layer. Typically this is only required when dealing with a lot of water. A custom waterfall, misting systems, etc. High humidity is a requirement for some frogs, but not all.

If you know you need a drainage layer, keep reading the rest of step 3. Otherwise, you can fill the terrarium with 2 – 3 inches of substrate and continue to step 4.

For setting up a drainage layer, you need a filter medium. Most people use hydroballs, which are great. I, on the other hand, recommend something else. Matala Filter isn’t designed specifically for terrariums, but it’s one of the best products I’ve ever used for a drainage layer.

So first, fill the bottom of the enclosure with 1. 5 – 2 inches of hydroballs or use a custom cut piece of Matala filter. On top of that, add a substrate barrier; a mesh screen. It should allow water to flow through but keeps your substrate above the first layer. On top of the mesh screen, add your substrate.

Step 4: Add Branches, Sticks or Logs

Treefrogs and other arboreal species appreciate vertical climbing space. In the wild, they spend most of their time atop trees and other vegetation. As such, it’s recommended that you provide several climbing opportunities in the form of branches, sticks, or logs.

Which type of terrarium wood you choose is entirely up to you. High humidity enclosures would benefit from a hardwood, something that can be waterlogged without becoming moldy or breaking apart.

Should the enclosure not require super high humidity, a large grapevine will look nice. Regardless of the conditions, cork bark is always a good option.

You should strategically place the branches and sticks in a way to allows your treefrog several different climbing and resting areas in different heights of the enclosure.

Step 4: Add Plants and Vines

Plants are a must-have for tree frogs. Not only do they provide more climbing options and great hiding locations, but they prefer to sleep on leaves. My red-eyed tree frogs have their favorites, but most often I find them on the long, thin leaves that seem to wrap around them perfectly.

Whether the plants are real or fake, it doesn’t matter. Obviously, with real plants, you will need a low-powered grow light. Something designed for terrarium usage, with no greater than 5.0 UVB.

Another thing plants provide is a storage place for water. Frogs drink water droplets from plant leaves more often then they do from a water dish. It’s a good practice to mist the plants especially to ensure there are drops of water all over the terrarium.

Aside from live or fake plants, adding vines is a great way to create more climbing places. I personally haven’t tried all the different brand’s of terrarium vines, but I’m sure they all do a good job.

Step 5: Add the Small Water Dish

Even though tree frogs are amphibians, they’re not the best swimmers. They enjoy shallow water. So a dish small, shallow water dish will suffice (click here to see one on amazon). Having said that, the size of the water container doesn’t really matter.

What matters is the depth of the water. It’s important to note that tree frogs won’t spend a great deal of their time in the water. They’re more likely to drink water droplets left on leaves from the last misting. If no droplets are available or they simply want to soak their skin, they will find their way into the water dish.

Fill the water dish with clean, dechlorinated water. The water should be free from toxins. Tap-water often contains chemicals like chlorine, which are harmful to frogs and other amphibians.

So, if you chose to use tap-water, I recommend treating it with ReptiSafe or a similar water conditioning agent. For more information on this topic, check out my safe-water guide for amphibians.

Step 6: Add the Lights, Thermometer, and Hygrometer

At this point, you’re nearing completion of your tree frog terrarium. All that’s left is to add any remaining gadgets you need. These items depend on the individual needs of the treefrog you’re keeping.

Should your frog or live plants require special lighting, you can install that now. Other products include automated misting systems and foggers.

Those items, as I mentioned, may or may not be required depending on the species you’re building the habitat for. For all frogs, I recommend a nice digital thermometer & hygrometer.

Thermometers & hygrometers are fairly inexpensive and they measure the humidity level and temperature inside your terrarium. With this information, you can manually adjust the temperature by use of a heating pad or basking light. As for humidity, well, simply mist the enclosure using a spray bottle.

A hygrometer & thermometer combo can be placed in the top corner while an additional thermometer can be placed in the bottom. Checking the temperature at the top and bottom of the enclosure gives you a better understanding of what’s going on in the terrarium.

This is ideal for checking a temperature gradient, where the top of the enclosure is meant to be warmer than the bottom. Achieving a temperature gradient like this is most effective by the use of a basking lamp, which is positioned above the enclosure.

Anyway, don’t worry about doing this unless it’s a recommendation for your tree frog.

Step 7: Mist the Enclosure

Now that you’re finished with the setup, it’s a good idea to thoroughly mist the entire terrarium; the substrate, branches, leaves, and everything else. Don’t be shy, get the entire enclosure wet.

This is a great opportunity to ensure you’re hygrometer is working. If you notice the humidity level is dropping too fast, you might consider covering a portion of the screen lid with a piece of plastic or custom-cut piece of glass to increase the humidity in the terrarium.

After this, you’re ready to introduce your frog to his or her new home.

Introducing Your Tree Frog to its New Enclosure

It’s always a good idea to be gentle and patience when introducing your frogs to a new home. In most cases, your pet will be in a small, plastic container, especially if you just bought one from a pet store.

Otherwise, you may be transferring them from an old terrarium to the new. Either way, open the plastic container and set it inside the new enclosure.

Allow your pet to hop out of the plastic container on their own. Once you’ve noticed they’re venturing out into their new home, gently remove the plastic container and close the terrarium doors.

All done! I hope this guide has helped you in setting up the perfect enclosure for your tree frogs.

How To Setup A Tree Frog Habitat? [Step by Step Guide] – Acuario Pets

As a low maintenance pet, tree frogs are one of the considerable pets for beginners. Tree frogs can be a great choice if you are willing to adopt a pet friend that will accompany you for a long time.

Ensuring a proper habitat for any pet is mandatory for their well being and increasing survival rate. Tree frogs are not indifferent to this factor. You’ll have a brief but trustworthy trip of suggestions and guidelines in this article before setting your tree frog’s home.

When we are saying “tree frog”, that doesn’t indicate only one species with certain features. Almost 800 species of tree frogs, containing different types of characteristics, are available for adoption.

You can either set an artificial environment or you can choose a bioactive set-up for your tree frog.

Bioactive system: Bioactive system refers to a vivarium that has its very own ecosystem. Everything will be dependent on nature’s rules.

Artificial system: An artificial environment based vivarium’s system will be manual which means you have to control everything (temperature, humidity, soil, lighting) by yourself.

While developing a bioactive vivarium is tough and time-worthy as well as maintaining, most people go for the artificial one. It’s not that tough and bad for your pet either.

Things to consider depending on the species characteristics before setting an artificial enclosure for your tree frog:

  • Space management
  • Temperature
  • Humidity
  • Decoration
  • Lighting
  • Compatible fellows

Here is a step by step process to set the enclosure properly:Setup Pic From Annette Milbank

Table of Contents

Step 1: Choosing The Correct Vivarium

To choose your correct vivarium, you need to look forward to the number of frogs you have and their ultimate body growth.

As mentioned before, a huge number of tree frog species exist on this earth. They have different body sizes and growth. So to speak with an example, a lion can not adjust in a cat’s cage.

A 12″ x 12″ x 18″ enclosure can ensure 1-2 Red-eyed tree frogs proper living space with their full-body growth. The 18″ x 18″ x 24″ enclosure can contain three to four tree frogs.

A minimum 10-gallon tank is preferred to start your journey with tree frogs. As tree frogs love to jump, you need to make sure the minimum height of 18″ for their home.

Another thing to consider is, if you want to keep other species with them as well, you should think about it first. You can add tropical lizards or same sized species together but it’s always preferred to provide them with an individual place.

Also, make sure that the vivarium has a screened lid as tree frogs love jumping. You don’t want them to hop out of the tank, do you?

Fact:  Here is a list of popular pet tree frogs’ ultimate grown body size:

  1. American Green tree frogs: 2.5 inches
  2. Pacific tree frogs: 2 inches
  3. Red-eyed tree frogs: 2 inches

If you are just starting out, I’ll highly recommend going for a starter kit like Zilla Vertical Starter Kit. With this starter kit, you’ll get almost everything you’ll need for setting up the tree frog habitat.

It comes with Hinged screen top, locking latch, locking pin, textured background, halogen dome, 25W mini halogen bulb, feeding dish, humidity & temperature gauge, coconut husk bedding, & complete setup guide.

Step 2: Buying Necessary Elements And Decorations

After getting the right tank, a few items need to be collected in order to set your pet’s desired home. 

You can either collect them individually or buy them in packages as kits. Here is the list of necessary items which are required to purchase.

  • Distilled water and towel. (To clean the tank)
  • Fresh, non-chlorinated water (for the water dish)
  • Substrate 
  • Medium filter for drainage (Only if extra water or mist may cause high humidity in the tank)
  • Branches, sticks or logs. (Any of artificial or non-artificial)
  • Plants and vines.
  • Small shallow water dish.
  • Lights, thermometer
  • Mist.
  • Heat pad
  • Basking light
  • Automatic misting system
  • Froggers

When you are making the list, make sure you have researched enough on the frogs’ needs. Different species requirements are different.

Make sure to buy firm quality products as these amphibians are very active. Or else, they can face accidents such as crushing themselves under e rock or log.

Step 3: Setting The vivarium

Cleaning The Enclosure:

Cleaning the enclosure is a mandatory thing before putting everything inside it. Use a towel and distilled water to remove dust. Don’t use any chemical substance in order to protect your pets. Chemical products can make your pets ill.

Selecting The Spot

Set your vivarium in a permanent spot or else it will be tough to replace it later after setting it up. You don’t want to move a heavy thing from here to there consisting of different types of mechanical devices, decors as well as electrical connections, do you?

Adding The Drainage Layer

If you have a custom waterfall, misting system or any other sources which can cause high humidity, you have to add a drainage layer.

Process: You’ll need a medium filter to set a drainage layer. For example, hydroballs. Add a 1.5-2 inches layer of hydroballs on the bottom of the tank. Add a mesh screen on top of that as a substrate barrier which will separate your substrate from the first layer and let the water flow through as well.

Keeping substrate in a white paper towel will make your cleaning work easier. It will also help you to detect poops and unusual parasite overloads.

Adding A Background

Add a dark green background behind the tank. Usually, you will get a plastic foam background while purchasing the vivarium. You can also attach cork bark slabs on the back wall with a suction cup.

These will add a nice natural green touch and more jumping space for your frog.

Adding Substrate

Then you need to add your substrate. Any mulch-type substrate can be used such as Zoo Med Eco Earth Coconut Fiber, bark bedding or Zilla Moss Bedding.

Gravel and artificial turf should be avoided because they can be too harsh for your frog’s skin.

You have to line the ground of the tank with 2 to 3 inches of bark bedding or coconut fibre.

Adding Climbing Decors

Now you need to add some logs, sticks or branches . Try to arrange them in order so that your pet can have enough space to climb and rest in those branches.

Arboreal Species as tree frogs spend the majority of their time on trees and plants naturally. So, it’s a must to add some climbing spots to the vivarium for them.

Try to get hardwood if you are setting a high humidity terrarium. Moldy texture or breakage due to moisture can cause extra pain for you. So, it’s better to get a better one in the first place.

Here’s some of my recommendations:

  • Natural Looking Bendy Branches
  • Zoo Med African Mopani Wood

Adding Plants

The next step is adding plants and vines. Apart from ensuring hiding and climbing spots, they ensure a sweet spot as your pet’s sleeping area. You can bring any artificial or non-artificial leaves and plants.

But with natural plants, you have to arrange some extra things for them as well. You will require a low powered grow light which must be with less than 5.0 UVB. Your frogs would prefer drinking water from the leaves more than from the water dish.

Their natural process of absorbing moisture from the habitat is through their skin. So, always mist the plants and ensure spreading water all over the tank.

Put A Water Container

Put a water container with shallow water. When we are saying the word “shallow” that means the size of the container is not a thing to consider but the depth of water is.

You can add pebbles to the container as well. Make sure to change the water on a regular basis.

Frogs are not excellent at swimming and they love to roam in shallow water. Still, make sure that the tank does not have any chlorinated water or tap water.

Drinking from the water dish is the last choice they would make. They will haunt every last water droplet in the plants but still not go to the water dish. It’s a place where they spend a very short amount of time.

Remember that enough water supply is a must for your tree frogs or else they will dry out and may even die.

Adding Necessary Gadgets

The very last step of setting up your vivarium is adding the necessary gadgets such as lights, thermometer, hygrometer, automated misting system, froggers, heating pad, basking light etc.

These are the products that depend on your frogs’ natural needs. If your frogs need special lighting, adjust the lights.

Tree frogs are nocturnal but in order to make them realize the day and night circle, you may need a lighting system of 12-hour cycles. During the summer, you can increase this cycle up to 14 hours.

Make sure to add some dark space as well for your frogs. This will provide them scopes of hiding themselves willingly.

Temperature conditions have different requirements for every species. However, you can adjust the temperature low at night compared with the daytime.

Hygrometers and thermometers are cheap in comparison but they will provide you with huge facilities by letting you know the humidity and temperature level of the tank. If you want to measure both humidity and temperature in one device, get Exo Terra Combometer.

You can place the combo pack in the top corner and install an individual thermometer at the bottom left. This will help you to acknowledge the environment of the tank because the top and bottom levels have different temperature ranges.

All the devices mentioned in this step are totally dependent on your frog’s needs. So, if your frog doesn’t need one, you can skip it.

We can have a common example of green tree frogs.

What Do Green Tree Frogs Need In Their Tank?

A green tree frog enclosure must contain (75°-80°) F constant temperature, UVB lighting, slightly moist substrate, moss (if there is not enough humidity), plants and barks, shallow water bowls with chlorinated water, hygrometer, thermometer etc.

A glass enclosure normally works fine for green tree frogs as it allows the heat to escape the tank. The temperature should always remain constant and should not raise more than 80°F.  

Creating a temperature gradient will help your frog to decide its positions according to its body needs. When one part of the tank is highly heated and the other part contains low temperature in comparison, it’s called ‘temperature gradient’.

A basking lamp is highly effective to create temperature radiance. Put a basking lamp at least 1-2 inches above the enclosure lid which will protect your frogs from facing any unusual accidents due to high heat.

Hygrometers and thermometers are needed as it’s a must to maintain both temperature and humidity.

You have to install a UVB lighting system with 5-6% UVB tube or similar compact light as green tree frogs receive some amount of UVB in the wild naturally. Also, if you have natural plants inside the tank, they will need UVB to survive.

Green tree frogs need fresh water. So, it’s better if the water is non-chlorinated. Adding moss will help you to increase the humidity level.

Step 4: Misting The Enclosure

After you are all done with setting up the vivarium, mist the whole tank including the plants, vines, branches, leaves etc. Being stingy isn’t an option here, get everything moist and wet.

You can check your hygrometer’s activity in this case as well. If the humidity range is too low within a short time, make sure to cover a part of the screen lid with a piece of plastic or glass. This will increase the humidity range of the tank.

Step 5: Introduce Your Friend To His New Home!

Are you excited to introduce your friend to its marvellous terrarium? But hold on! You have to be patient and calm in this part.

Let your frog get familiar with the place on its own. Let them adapt to the new environment. Don’t rush and try to handle them. Just let them enter the tank, and if you see they are hopping on their own, silently close the terrarium.

Make sure you do not handle them more than once in a week, don’t touch them after using hand sanitizer or any other chemical products and try to use a glove before touching them as they have super absorbing skin.

Conclusion

So, we are putting a full stop here. This whole process will lead you to successfully set a terrarium for your tree frog. You are all done after following these steps.

Make sure your frogs are healthy, happy and taken care of. Overall, a long term buddy needs enough appreciation indeed!

Setting up a terrarium for tree frogs (tree frogs)

In their natural habitat tree frogs (tree frogs) spend a lot of time on tree branches so they should be provided with a vertical terrarium. It is best if it is a high parallelepiped or a hexagonal prism. Place branches in it, on which your wards will climb.


Tree frog (Hyla arborea)

Tree frog size

The size of the terrarium depends on the type of frogs that will live in it. Small frogs feel great in a small terrarium. Naturally, its capacity should increase if the number of your pets grows. Small tree frogs thrive in a 50x50x75 cm terrarium. As a rule, a 100 liter terrarium is enough for most species.

Humidity

Many people mistakenly believe that if a frog feels dry, it will dive into its pond. Some species are very dependent on the humidity of the environment. It can be supported in several ways. First, get a sprayer and regularly spray the terrarium with settled water. Spray everything. Live plants are especially good at retaining moisture, but if you have artificial plants, then moisture will not harm them either.
Note . It is not always necessary to spray a terrarium in which toads live, which prefer a dry climate.
You can also put moss in the terrarium and keep it moist; keep the soil moist, and if you don't have soil, you can use vermiculite (available at gardening stores).

A terrarium cover that keeps it dry and keeps it ventilated is a very good idea. Some terrariums have something like a greenhouse, which is ideal for some types of frogs.

If you have a pool of running water in your terrarium, then spraying is not necessary, as splashing water has the same effect. Again, it all depends on the species you have.

If your frogs require very high humidity, you can lower the compressor into the pond. Floating air bubbles very well increase the level of humidity. For more information on this subject, contact the place where you purchased your pets.


Vertical terrarium for frogs

Terrarium lid

The lid for a terrarium containing frogs must fulfill two conditions - to prevent your pets from escaping and to provide them with good ventilation. It would be nice if it was made of some kind of non-rigid material. There are two reasons for this. Firstly, especially active frogs will not get hurt by hitting the ceiling while jumping. Secondly, such a coating provides better ventilation. There are many varieties of terrarium lids available in pet stores that are ideal for frogs.

Lighting

Lighting for frog terrariums is still a controversial issue . Many hobbyists claim that frogs, unlike lizards, snakes, turtles, and other reptiles, do not need full spectrum lighting to stay healthy. This kind of lighting helps some animals to produce vitamin D3, and frogs get it from their food, so normal light is enough for them. Of course, special lighting sources that can be bought at pet stores will not cause harm if turned on for a maximum of 4-5 hours a day.

It is best to follow these rules

Do not use too bright light . It can damage the eyesight of frogs. Even if it does not harm the eyesight of your wards, it can simply cause them discomfort, and the frogs will constantly hide in shelters, which is very uninteresting for their owner.

The best artificial lighting for frogs is the fluorescent lamp. On the one hand, it does not get very hot. Many frogs ended their days by burning themselves on a hot light bulb. If you are using a light source that gets very hot, make sure the frog cannot jump on it.

Many frogs need daylight to tell what time of year it is, as they do in their natural environment. The daylight period should be approximately 12 hours.


Red-eyed tree frog (Agalychnis callidryas)

It's best to keep your terrarium out of direct sunlight as this will cause algae to grow rapidly on the walls of your pond and make it a nightmare to clean.

Terrarium heater for tree frogs

If your frogs require a different temperature than you live in, the terrarium will need additional heating. If the terrarium has a large body of water, then it will also need to be heated.

Related article Keeping common tree frog (Hyla arborea)

Air heating

The easiest way is to heat the air of the entire room to the desired temperature. In this case, you can leave the water a little cooler so that the frogs have a place where they can cool off. If this option doesn't work for you, consider a few others.

Buy an ordinary incandescent lamp. It is best used outside the terrarium. If you put the lamp inside, then protect your wards from burns. You will need to alternate between using an incandescent light bulb and an infrared light bulb to allow for natural diurnal temperature fluctuations.

A heating mat can be used to heat the terrarium, which is placed under the part of the terrarium. Never place a mat under the entire bottom of , the frogs must be able to escape the heat. Do not install a heating device directly in the terrarium, frogs can easily get burned.

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Tags: amphibians, keeping amphibians, terrarium, terrarium for amphibians

Australian tree frog (white, blue, coral-toed)

Tree frog (tree frog): keeping at home. How to care for a tree frog?

Today it is becoming fashionable to keep exotic pets at home, including tree frogs. Although these amphibians are unpretentious, for a comfortable stay they need to create conditions that are as close to natural as possible. Usually tree frogs are kept in tall vertical terrariums with a lot of plants, various snags and vertical branches. It should be remembered that the volume of the vessel should be selected at the rate of 40-50 liters per pet.

A layer of hygroscopic substrate is poured on the bottom of the tree frog terrarium, a drinking bowl and a spacious bathing container are installed. In order for pets to feel good, it is necessary to maintain a stable temperature inside the container of no more than 25 ° C and a humidity of about 80%.

Tree frog (Microhyla pulchra species)

Any insects are given as food for tree frogs: crickets, bugs, marbled cockroaches. It is necessary to regularly clean the terrarium from food debris, change fresh water in the drinking bowl and bathing containers, and also wipe the inner surface of the glass from mucous accumulations, as they can be poisonous. With the right content of the tree frog, the duration of its life in captivity can reach 22 years. Each type of tree frog has its own nuances in content, so it is better to consult with specialists before buying a pet.

In any case, after contact with a tree frog, it is imperative to wash your hands. Also, do not forget to hide the tree frog from other pets - cats or dogs. According to American sources, there have been cases when pets ate tree frog, after which they experienced profuse salivation and in some cases even epileptic seizures.

Lithoriums, like many tropical species, are popular hobby pets. Bright changeable color, large size, not fastidiousness, interesting behavior and easy tameability attract the interest of amateurs and professionals to overseas curiosities.

Tree frogs are quite easy to care for by creating a tropical climate corner in a terrarium, or in an aquaterrarium and a paludarium. The temperament of domestic frogs is quite good-natured and they quickly get used to hands. They are picky about food, content with various insects and their larvae, as well as newborn babies of small rodents and fish (quickly learning to take food from the hands of their owner and owner).

Genesis

Australian tree frogs, photos of which are given in the material, are very diverse. Two near-living species may differ not only in color, but also in size. For example, the smallest among them is the spear frog, whose size does not exceed 1.6 cm. The most noticeable is the giant frog, which can grow up to 13.5 cm. Every now and then, the size and appearance of tree frogs is closely related to their environment a habitat. Small dark individuals are more often found in the ground, they climb trees very rarely. And there big green litories live all their life on trees and descend from them only during the breeding season.

Tree frog – domestic Frog Princess


Tree frog is perhaps the most popular object for keeping among amphibian lovers. Quite a large family of Hylidae (720 species) gave many of its representatives for our terrariums - unpretentious, active, of course, beautiful - why not frog princesses? If you still believe in fairy tales, then a tree frog is a good choice. Tree frogs are the inhabitants of the forest. They are distributed in North, Central and South America, in the west and east of tropical Eurasia, in northwest Africa, in Australia, in New Guinea. Devices in the form of suction cups and brushes on the tips of the fingers and glands on the belly and throat, which secrete a sticky secret, allow them to move freely both on horizontal and vertical surfaces. Of course, for a safe life at height, certain skills and special tools are required. Disks on the fingertips act as such biodevices.

These extensions on the underside are covered with five-to-six-sided tubercles, the number of which can reach 20,000 on one finger! According to the mode of action, the discs resemble rubber suction cups; their structure is so efficient that tree frogs are able to sit for hours on an absolutely smooth surface (for example, glass) without much effort.


Most tree frogs have strong voices. Mostly males croak, although the word “croak” does not accurately convey the range of sounds that these frogs make. Their range is from the pleasant trills of the common tree frog to the dog barking of the Australian white tree frog. The sounds of tree frogs are made with the help of resonators of the throat sacs, which are usually imperceptible, but when singing, they can swell almost to the size of the frog itself. Common, Australian and Cuban tree frogs are most common in terrariums.

Like chameleons, these frog princesses change skin color depending on humidity and temperature. With a decrease in temperature and an increase in humidity, animals darken, by the way, even under not too favorable conditions. If the tree frogs feel good and comfortable, then their color is bright green (in the case of the common tree frog, for example, there are also frogs colored differently).

If you want to take tree frogs from nature, the best time to catch them is in spring, the breeding season, when they gather near water bodies. But, there are no tree frogs in the Leningrad region, you will have to go at least to Ukraine. But in pet stores or in the bird market, you can find the animal you are interested in.

First of all, you should take care of your home. Tree frogs need a vertical type terrarium, i.e. one in which the depth will be greater than the length and width, with a shallow body of water and dense vegetation. Unlike their foreign relatives, common tree frogs do not break stems and leaves, only the largest individuals can occasionally harm a particular plant. Therefore, you can get creative with the design of the terrarium. True, it should be remembered: the terrarium should be equipped so that it is convenient to clean it.


It is best to put a drainage layer on the bottom (for example, fine expanded clay), and on top - sphagnum moss. It is more rational to plant plants in flowerpots, which are installed at the bottom and decorated outside with the same moss. The most suitable for a terrarium with tree frogs are numerous representatives of aroids and bromeliads; in the latter case, it is necessary to avoid specimens with leaves on which spines grow.

Woodworms do not need a deep pool, so it is enough to place a small photocell into the terrarium, where fresh settled water at room temperature should be added as necessary. It is also advisable to spray the terrarium with a sprayer several times a week and water the plants daily. Do not get carried away with snags - in conditions of high humidity, they can rot and be a source of animal diseases.

Depending on the volume of the terrarium, lighting is selected - fluorescent or incandescent. The main thing is that all the wires are outside, otherwise a short circuit may occur due to water. It is better to build a door in a terrarium on the side and at least not leave the top open - you are dealing with first-class climbers. Otherwise, you will have to look for fugitives throughout the room.

Now about the animals themselves. You select their number depending on your own capabilities - remember, the more tree frogs you have in the terrarium, the more food they need and the larger the terrarium itself should be. Try not to keep many males at once if possible - unless, of course, you need a free morning alarm clock.

Natural populations and conservation measures[edit]


Lithorium toes

The population of Australian blue tree frogs is not threatened, but some measures are taken to study and control them. Lithoriums are in great demand and popular among lovers of exotic and domestic animals, and - as in most such cases, due to the growing commercial demand and the natural limitation of the distribution of certain morphological forms in their natural habitat, natural populations of frogs can be reduced and even disappear - disturbing thus ecological natural balance. Strict government measures to ban and regulate trapping—the removal of animals from countries—could help conserve the species in such a case. Coral-toed litoria breed well in captivity, and therefore - at present, they are not even threatened by private poaching for export and sale, both through the zoo trade network of economically successful countries, or, through individual - small private business offices and firms. Some wild animals are sold under the guise of a domestic population or in the form of babies obtained from a wild form of an animal caught during the mating season.

The decline in frog populations is also affected by deforestation due to the development of industrial and agricultural production.

FOOD FOR AUSTRALIAN Frogs

I offered food to the Australian tree frogs of this living corner every day. I try to give food from tweezers, and then from my hands, so that the frogs become completely domestic. Sometimes I put food in the feeder. In the latter case, tree frogs sit around it and take turns snatching out cockroaches from there, pushing them into their mouths with short paws. Not without quarrels. Sometimes one of the individuals, without a twinge of conscience, completely climbs into the feeder and does not let relatives go there. When I feed blue tree frogs with crickets, I simply release them into the terrarium and watch how the tree frogs hunt - slowly sneak up and jump sharply on their prey.

Photo of an Australian tree frog

There is a drinking bowl in the terrarium - a compact ceramic reservoir in which frogs can fit entirely. I change the water in it as needed, usually once a day. Plus, once a week I wash my own drinker.

The bottom of the terrarium is covered with a layer of drainage, on which lies the usual soil for plants from a flower shop. On top of all this is sphagnum moss, on which driftwood from a vine is installed vertically.

At the time of settling into the terrarium of Australian blue tree frogs, fittonia, syngoniums grew in it ... But as the animals grew, the plants had to be replaced, since Australian tree frogs are large amphibians, and the leaves of delicate syngoniums were easily torn under their weight, and they simply trampled the fittonia. Therefore, now that tree frogs have grown to 10 cm, their dwelling is decorated with dwarf cyperus, ivy, philodendron, hard-leaved fern and aglaonema. Although the latter is poisonous, this is not a problem for smiling frogs, since they do not feed on flora.

Australian blue tree frogs, or Litoria caerulea in Latin, are excellent animals for beginner terrarium keepers. In specialized literature, they can be found under different names: White’s tree frog (named after the discoverer), coral-toed litoria (amphibians’ spread fingers caused an association with corals in someone), thick-set frog, green giant tree frog, and, finally, smiling frog (in order to to understand the meaning of this name, just look at the photo of amphibians). Another name often used in everyday life - the Australian white tree frog - has an incidental origin. Of course, these frogs are not entirely white. But someone once, apparently, confused the name of the discoverer (“White” in English - white) with the species name of the animal.

Photo Australian tree frog

These tree frogs live in Australia, as well as in Indonesia, New Guinea, on nearby islands, they are also introduced to New Zealand. A typical range of amphibians are subtropical forests. They hunt and live in trees, deftly and quickly jumping on branches and leaves.

Australian littorinas are highly adaptable and can live near humans. They are often found near water tanks located both outdoors and directly in homes.

Animals have certain mimicry abilities, changing color from brown to different shades of green depending on the surface on which they are currently sitting.

There is also a mottled brown-green color morph. It should, however, be noted that the abdomen and throat do not change color under any circumstances - they are always milky white. Unless the inner part of the thigh in some individuals may be pinkish.

The skin of littorians is smooth, although large (maximum 13 cm) individuals sometimes develop folds on the sides.

Australian tree frogs have quite pronounced sexual dimorphism. Firstly, males are larger, secondly, their throats are colored gray, and thirdly, they croak loudly, mainly at night or in the morning. During the "concerts" the throat sac swells up among the gentlemen, which is almost invisible at other times.

The fingertips of the Australian blue tree frog have discs with special glands that secrete a sticky secret that allows the animal to climb even on glass. And on the hind limbs of Australian tree frogs there are membranes that give amphibians the ability to move quickly in the water.

Photo Australian blue tree frogs

Their head is very large and broad, but short. In nature, a tree frog feeds on what can fit into its mouth - invertebrates, rodents, lizards, other frogs, including its own species.

General information about the genus of tree frogs[edit]

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Distribution area of ​​the genus Australian tree frogs lat. Litoria

In the biological genus of Australian tree frogs - Litoria (lat. Litoria), various researchers in the field of biology and systematics of animals include from more than 100 to 200 species of amphibians (lat. Amphibia), distributed in various territories and in various ecological zones of the continent of Australia, New Guinea, New Zealand and the Malay Archipelago.

Frogs are quite large in size: some of the species reach 12-13 cm in body length, and even more than that. The pupil, in the golden-reticulated iris of the eyes (which is the reason for the later allocation of some representatives to the genus - Retina - lat. Nyctimystes) of the Litoria tree frog (lat. Litoria), is located horizontally. The external color of animals varies in various shades of monotony and variegation, depending on the species. They are adapted to mimicry and easily change the tone of the skin color to match the color of the surrounding space.

They lead a nocturnal and twilight lifestyle. Tree frogs spend most of their time in the crowns of trees and shrubs, only occasionally descending to the ground or into a pond. The structure of the wide pads of the toes of the paws of animals allows tree frogs to securely hold their body on vertical surfaces and move freely along sheer walls and trees; they easily move along thin twigs and leathery leaves of plants.

They feed on various types of invertebrates: mollusks, insects and their larvae, arachnids, and also do not disdain small birds, lizards, rodents and their cubs, small fish.

In dry and cold seasons, they hibernate, which can last up to 4 months a year - hiding in hollows, tree crevices and in moss.

Australian tree frog shelter

The best way to equip the terrarium is with various branches and snags, while it should be rather high and narrow. A size of 0.5 * 0.4 * 0.4 cm is quite suitable. The terrarium should be increased by 40 liters, calculated for each new inhabitant.

Due to the fact that the Australian tree frog has suction cups on its limbs and can easily move on any surface, it is necessary to have a cover on the terrarium when kept at home. A Few Highlights of Keeping an Australian Blue Tree Frog:

  • Sand with peat, as well as sphagnum moss, is quite suitable as a flooring.
  • Cleaning should be done every two to three weeks, using special products that have a disinfecting effect.
  • The temperature regime must be observed within 24-26 ° C during the daytime, and 19-21 ° C at night.
  • It is also necessary to heat the terrarium, including the soil and water.

Lighting should be done for 10 hours. Humidity in the terrarium should be between 60-80%. It is necessary to spray moisture 2-3 times a week, as well as provide constant ventilation in the terrarium.

Monstera, ficus, philodendrons, and other plants with dense leaves are the best vegetation for the Australian white tree frog. The pond should be made spacious, but its depth should not exceed the height of the pet itself. The best size of the water environment will be 15-20 cm at a depth of 10-13 cm. Change the water once a day.

The terrarium of such an exotic pet should be arranged in the form of a tropical forest. It is best to provide the dwelling of the Australian tree frog with stones, vegetation, snags, so that the pet has the opportunity to hide if desired.

Flora and fauna of the Blue Mountains

Many of the plants are considered rare and endangered. They are able to live only in the conditions of Australia, most attempts to acclimatize them on other continents have completely failed and now they carefully keep intact the riches of nature that exist on the Australian continent.


Mountain slopes grow:

  • tree ferns;
  • mint;
  • blue eucalyptus;
  • Volemi pines;
  • acacia.

INTERESTING:

Queensland - Australia

Eucalyptus trees lead the longevity of the Blue Mountains. Volemsky pines were considered extinct for a long time, until the first travelers, having set off from Sydney to conquer the mountain peaks, found them on the slopes of the ridge.


Animals include several species of kangaroos, koalas, rabbit bandicoots, wombats, ring-tailed opossums, swamp wallabies, spotted-tailed marsupial martens, golden littoria. The world of birds is represented by a unique cave warbler living only in the Blue Mountains, fire-chested petroics, warty and yellow-fronted honeyeaters, diamond finches, Wong pigeons.

Who are tree frogs?

Frogs, or tree frogs, are called frogs that belong to the type of chordates, the class of amphibians (amphibians), the order of anurans, the family of tree frogs. The researchers who discovered these frogs at first considered them very beautiful. The reason for this was the individual color of these amphibians. The Russian-language concept of "frog", best of all, appeared due to the loud voice of frogs, characteristic of (avoidance of representatives of this family only.

Due to the fact that a huge number of species belong to these amphibians, it is impossible to give a clear presentation of their appearance, since it is over diverse.

Attractions

First of all, tourists pay attention to the gentle blue haze hovering over the slopes of the Blue Mountains. During sunrise and sunset, its color changes to create an ethereal scenery


Tours to the Blue Mountains National Park include:

  • sightseeing of the rock formations of the Three Sisters and a giant staircase of 800 steps leading to the very top;
  • Aboriginal camp in Lyrebird Hollow;
  • Red Hands cave with rock paintings and handprints of ancient people;
  • "singing paths" leading to sacred places;
  • the Gros Valley, flanked by 2 of the most popular routes;
  • Wentworth rainbow waterfall.


In the ancient underground cave of Jenolan there are huge mines, the bottom of which no one has seen. Open for viewing 9karst voids. They are illuminated in an original way, musicians were seduced by excellent acoustics, and symphony concerts are regularly held in the caves. The Jurassic pine, one of the rarest plants in the world, grows in the botanical garden.

At this time, nature calms down, the mountains begin to glow with a barely perceptible inner light. Against the background of almost complete silence, only the screams of the night inhabitants are heard and the powerful even rustle of relict eucalyptus trees is heard, mentally transferring many millennia back.

WILL BE INTERESTING:

The main attractions of Australia


You can travel to protected areas on foot, by bicycle and all-terrain vehicles. Tourist trails resemble a tangled web, most often tourists are accompanied by guides.

Reproduction

They are egg-laying amphibians. In most species, direct development occurs, that is, there is no tadpole stage - small frogs hatch from eggs. Some members of the family have forms of parental care that are unique in the animal world. Genus 9 females0301 Rheobatrachus

hatched frogs are swallowed, and they develop in the stomach to metamorphosis, after which the female regurgitates them. Male marsupial toads have peculiar bags on their hips, into which they take tadpoles after they hatch, and there the cubs undergo further development. Rounded toads and turtle frogs bury their eggs in wet sand. Other species build foam nests.

WHAT TO FEED THE Frog

In the conditions of the terrarium, tree frogs are fed mainly with insects, which I recommend to roll in mineral top dressing once a week. Young tree frogs are given food daily, adults - once every 2-3 days.

Australian tree frogs have a very good appetite, for example, mine “beg” every evening: they crawl out onto the front glass of the terrarium and try to draw attention to themselves and beg for a handout. But in this situation it is necessary to show stamina, because the animals are prone to overeating, and connivance here will lead to undesirable consequences for their health.

Tree frogs are active at twilight and at night. During the day, they sleep with their paws neatly folded under them and painted for camouflage in the color of the background. In case of danger, the tree frog first freezes, hoping that it will not be noticed. If the threat has not passed, the animal jumps sharply and far.

Australians are easy to tame. To do this, it is enough to communicate with them daily. They quickly get used to the owner and willingly climb on the substituted hand.

Video Australian tree frog

But the possibilities of communication with blue tree frogs are not limited to this. By the time these funny creatures lived with me for about a year, I noticed interesting changes in their behavior. Animal care took place strictly according to the schedule: spraying the terrarium daily in the morning, changing the water in the afternoon on Thursday, feeding on Wednesday evening.

So, when I open the terrarium to spray it, the tree frogs do not pay any attention to me at all, but as soon as I appear near the terrarium on Wednesday evening, the frogs jump together from the snags and the lamp and sit down at the front glass, sometimes even eloquently while opening his mouth. It is enough to open the lid, and all the frogs jump on me, and then they quickly return to the terrarium so as not to miss the meal.

Of course, I cannot give food to all the frogs at once, but, of course, I try to reward each one with a cockroach as quickly as possible. However, no matter how I hurry, my pace clearly does not suit the pets: as soon as one of them gets a treat, her companions get closer and quietly but persistently croak.

Well, when happiness falls to the second frog, the patience of the rest runs out: they rush to bite either one of the lucky ones or me ... And first they grab a finger from the side, and then they try to swallow it whole. And, I must say, their grip is quite tenacious - the frog can be lifted, because it holds the prey tightly, trying to push it deeper into the mouth. And only later, realizing that the food is disproportionate, let her go.

Photo of an Australian tree frog

In addition to feeding and spraying, caring for tree frogs includes obligatory, preferably daily, wiping the glass of the terrarium with a damp cloth. The fact is that the outer integument of tree frogs (and not only Australian, but also other members of the genus) are covered with thick mucus containing toxic substances. As a result, the walls of the container quickly get dirty, and if they are not cleaned, then not only will they soon lose their transparency, but they will also pose a real threat to the health of amphibians, which can easily be poisoned by their own metabolic products.


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