How to make fake cherry blossom trees

DIY Cherry Blossoms

This post may contain affiliate links, which gives me a small percentage of the sale, at no cost to you.

Home » DIY & Tutorials » DIY » DIY Cherry Blossoms

by Kara Cook 63 Comments

  • Share
  • Tweet

Sorry I’ve been MIA for the last few days. It was my anniversary on Sunday, and my hubbie planned a little getaway for the two of us. I left on Thursday and didn’t have time to give ya all a heads up. It sure was nice to get away for awhile!

While we were gone we had some painters come to paint our two story foyer. Don’t be all panicking on me, they happen to be great friends of ours. No, I wouldn’t let complete strangers into my house while we were out of town. I may be crazy, but not that crazy. 😉  I will share the before and after later on this week.

But for today, I have a fun little spring project. DIY Cherry Blossoms. This project came about from necessity. I am in the process of doing a little spring and Easter decorating around my house. I wanted to purchase some faux cherry blossoms for my spring mantel, but I couldn’t find any. Anywhere. What’s a girl to do? Of course I had to make some of my own. I saw some on Pinterest that led me to these cherry blossoms at Good Housekeeping. But the instructions didn’t have photos, and I’m a visual girl. 🙁
It also called for floral wire, which I couldn’t find in my stash and I didn’t want to have to run to the store. So I came up with my own method. It was a super easy project, and I was actually kinda surprised at how beautiful the branches turned out. And I had all the supplies, so it cost me nadda. Always a good thing!

Aren’t they gorgeous? Now if I could just find a way to make them smell like a cherry orchard, I would be in heaven.

Are you decorating for spring? Want to make your own cherry blossoms? You do. It’s easy, promise.

DIY Cherry Blossoms Tutorial

-Tissue paper
-Hot glue gun

1-Stack several pieces of tissue on top of each other and cut out a flower shape. It does not need to be perfect! Mine were about 2 1/2″ across and had five petals, but it doesn’t really matter that much. I wanted to do two colors, but you can just do one. And because I know a few of you are bound to notice. . . yes, my light pink paper has words on it. But it’s all I had and I knew once it was all scrunched up they wouldn’t show. Which they don’t. Thank goodness.

2-For two-toned cherry blossoms, stack two flowers on top of each other with the petals not matched up.
3-Now just scrunch the flower petals up and twist the whole thing together at the bottom.
I thought it would be more realistic if there were variations in the blossoms, so I made some light pink, some dark pink, and some with the two colors together. To make smaller blossoms like the two on the left, just scrunch up one flower at a time.
4-Now it’s time to glue them to your branches. I used branches that I pruned from our apple tree. If you don’t have your own tree, check with your neighbors. You should be able to find some unwanted branches this time of year.
I think it looks best to apply the blossoms to the natural buds of the branch. Just add a tiny dab of hot glue, and press your blossom on.
Continue adding blossoms to all sides of your branches.
5-When you are all finished, just stick them in the container of your choice.  I added some wheat at the bottom to hold them in place.

I picked up the white vase at Tai Pan Trading for five bucks. I adore it! So much that I actually bought 2 of them, plus 2 smaller ones. White vases are so versatile that they can be used almost anywhere, so I couldn’t pass them up!

I hope you have fun bringing a little bit of spring inside your home!

Looking for more Easter decorating ideas? Check these out:

  • Easter Egg Banner
  • Fabric Carrot Tutorial
  • Yarn Wrapped Easter Candles
  • He is Risen Printable
  • Yarn Wrapped Eggs

Filed Under: DIY, Easter, Holiday Tutorials, Paper Crafts Tagged With: spring decorating

Reader Interactions

Faux Trees|Flowering Silk Cherry Blossom & Dogwood Trees|ShopWildThings.


Choose Your Offer - Expires October 19th!
10% OFF ANY Order code TENSHINE
or FREE Ship on $99+ code FREESHIPPING
or 15% off on orders $499+ code WOW15

  • Video

$399. 99 & Eligible for Free Shipping with Coupon!


Current Stock:


How Many Pieces Do I Need?

Dimensions: Sq. FeetSq. Meters




Include a 5% Overage Include a 10% Overage

Number of pieces: 0


Artificial Cherry Blossom Tree with Realistic Trunk and Base! Removable and Bendable Branches!

This tree comes with the branches shown in the main photo but you can ALSO create an entirely different look by swapping out these branches with Interchangeable Flowering and Greenery Leaf Branches. Easily transition your events, seasons and holidays by choosing from the many styles and colors of interchangeable branches that we offer.

For sensational wedding and event decor, we work hard to get only the best so that you get only the best and our line of decorative flowering trees are luscious from top to bottom! It's sure hard to beat the beauty of a cherry blossom tree in full bloom so why not enjoy this elegant flowering tree year round!

Our Cream Flowering Cherry Blossom Tree is 6' tall and so realistic looking that you'll be doing a double-take! 6 Feet of pure delight and one of the best features is that all the branches (and there's a lot) are bendable so you can spread this out to 5' wide or compact it to around 4' wide! Now, that fills quite a large area and the end of each branch dangles down, creating a cascade of dreamy creamy blooms. it's absolutely breathtaking!

At the very base, the trunk is 16" in diameter, around 8" in the mid-section and 6" towards the top. The trunk is fairly straight and looks incredibly realistic. There are 10 main branches that are identical so assembling this tree literally takes under 5 minutes. Easy up, easy down, easy transporting and storing! Each main branch consists of 9 smaller branches that are very durable and completely bendable! Shape it how you'd like and it WILL keep its shape. The base of the 10 main branches is a square metal housing which simply slides into the square holes on the trunk and the look is completely seamless. The branches meld perfectly into the trunk. Very quick and easy! In the center of the base of the top 4 branches there is an area about 1 1/2" in diameter that could easily hold a small bottle of scented oil (like cherry blossom!) or a battery operated DazzLED light!

This tree comes as shown in the picture but you can create an entirely different look by swapping out these branches with Interchangeable Flowering and Greenery Leaf Branches. Easily transition your events, seasons and holidays by choosing from the many styles and colors of interchangeable branches that we offer.

This tree weighs 21.7 lbs. and at the bottom is an 11 3/4" square metal plate. The tree trunk is attached to the base - they are 1 unit that will not come apart. Additionally, the metal base has 4 holes (each 3/4" in diameter) so you can 'permanently' install this tree. It's hard to believe but there are so many branches and blossoms that you could actually remove several of the main stems and use them in a vase and you won't notice them missing from the tree. Seriously, that's just how full it is!

Add fairy string lights...OOH! Hang crystal garlands or crystal pendants and ornaments...AHH! You could even expound on the realistic qualities of this tree by placing in a planter box! Around the house this is perfect for a covered patio, sunroom or foyer. For restaurants, stores and hotels, welcome your guests with eye-popping blossoms and celebrate the holidays by decorating with colored LED string lights! If you're planning a large venue, place on a table and make this the grand showpiece of the room!

You will be amazed by this elegant blooming beauty and when only the best will do for your event, choose the best with this easy up, pleasing to the eye, exquisite accent piece!

Our flowering trees and other florals are intended for indoor use, but if you choose to place them outside, please be sure the area is dry and protected from moisture.   To reduce UV exposure, we advise using a UV floral protectant spray which has a clear finish and protects silk & dried flowers from fading and discoloration caused by damaging UV light rays with a bonus benefit of helping to avoid dust and dirt from settling on the petals!

Please note: When gathering the dimensions for our flowering trees, we take care and time to make sure our advertised measurements are true to the sample we're actually measuring. However, since these are a handmade item, the height, width, trunk & branch shape are not identical from tree to tree; and they aren't intended to be identical. Therefore, the height you receive may vary slightly from the stated height and if you order more than 1 tree, they may not be exactly the same height. Consequently, the actual amount of petals per tree may vary.

Read More
You May Also Like
Customer Reviews

How to grow cherries from the stone, including at home

Quite often, gardeners have questions about growing cherries from the stone. Usually, having bought a large juicy berry, which they would like to have on their site, they ask three questions. Is it possible to grow a cherry tree from the pit of a tasty eaten berry? If so, how to do it correctly, what conditions are needed for the development of a seedling? Will there be the same berries on the tree? We will try to find answers to these questions.


  • Whether cherry from a bone of
  • We collect cherry bones for sowing
  • so that cherry bones rose
    • Autumn natural stratification
    • Stratification before Spring sowing
      • The first method of stratification of cherry 9000 9000 9000 9000 Stratification and germination of stone fruits - video
      • Home stratification - video
    • Planting care

    Will cherries grow from stone

    Some varieties of cherries reproduce successfully by self-sowing

    In nature, cherry stones are designed to grow new trees from them. Some cherries reproduce in this way - by self-sowing. This means that it is possible to grow a tree from the bone of an eaten berry, but whether it is necessary to do this, each gardener makes his own decision, depending on the tasks that he sets for himself.

    It should be said right away that growing cherries from the stone will require quite a lot of time and patience, and the result obtained may not always meet the wishes of the gardener. Three points worth knowing:

    • Firstly, a tree obtained from a stone often does not retain the varietal characteristics and qualities of the parent plant.
    • Secondly, it has a lower yield.
    • Thirdly, the fruiting of a tree grown from a stone occurs only after it reaches the age of 5–7, or even 8–10 years .

    Usually cherries are grown from the stone in order to:

    • then use the tree as a rootstock for grafting a favorite variety or one that cannot be rooted;
    • try to grow a seedling of the variety you like;
    • carry out selection work;
    • get a lot of wild cherry seedlings.

    However, own-rooted cherries, that is, grown from the stone, have a great advantage over grafted trees . It consists in the fact that when the tree completely freezes or dries up, new shoots can go from its roots, which, having matured, will retain their variety.

    In addition, own-root cherries:

    • are better adapted to local climatic conditions and soils, which is extremely important for northern gardening areas;
    • have a strong root system with a pronounced central root, which holds the tree more firmly in the ground and actively supplies the plant with water.

    Gathering cherry pits for sowing

    To protect cherry pits from drying out or rotting, you must follow the rules for their harvesting and storage

    Cherry, like all stone fruits, has a fetal seed coat, which is not easy to open the sprout in it. Therefore, planting material must be properly collected and prepared as much as possible for germination.

    In order to preserve the pits of cherries until the moment of their sowing, to prevent them from drying out or rotting, proceed as follows:

    • cherry pits, extracted from the most ripe and largest berries, are thoroughly washed from pulp and juice with cold water;
    • dry them in a shady place, spreading the bones in one layer on the fabric;
    • is collected in a paper bag, wrapped in polyethylene and stored in a dry place at a temperature not exceeding 20 ºС until the time of sowing.

    For cherry pits to sprout

    Cherry pits can be placed in the soil for germination in autumn or spring, but due to the density of the surface shell, they must undergo a special preparation called stratification.


    soaking seeds of hard-to-sprout plants in wet sand, peat, moss at 1-5°C or under snow to accelerate germination.

    Autumn natural stratification

    Autumn sowing of cherry pits is possible only directly on the site, because only in open ground they will undergo the process of natural stratification, and shoots will appear in spring.

    When sowing cherry pits in autumn, they are first soaked for a week in cold water, which is changed daily. Then the bones are placed in the soil, which, if necessary, is mixed with sand for loosening. Bury the seeds 3-5 cm, leaving a distance of about 15 cm between the stones . This operation is performed at a time when in a particular area about a month and a half remains before the soil freezes. At the end of this period, while the ground still allows a ridge of soil to form above the crop.

    In winter, the seeding area can be additionally covered with snow. In the spring, the ridges are leveled, the shoots are cared for, like first-year seedlings - weeded, watered, loosened the soil. During the season, young cherries can grow up to half a meter. Plants hardened during the winter are much more frost-resistant and strong than those grown during spring sowing. In terms of resistance to low air temperature and diseases, the resulting plants are similar to self-sowing.

    Cherry pits overwintered in the soil sprout in spring

    Stratification before spring sowing

    Cherry pits prepared for spring sowing must be artificially stratified. It is carried out three or four months before the proposed planting of plants in the ground. This can be done in several ways.

    The first method of stratifying pits of cherries

    This method is close to natural stratification in terms of its effect on seeds. To perform it, a clean, sterilized three-liter jar is filled 2/3 with a mixture of a special substrate and cherry seeds soaked a week before.

    The substrate should retain moisture well, not stick together, but loosen easily. It is prepared from sawdust, dry, finely cut grass. Sphagnum moss, crushed peat, fine expanded clay, and some coarse sand are also used. Regardless of the components of the substrate used against mold and decay, the mixture is treated with a hot solution of potassium permanganate or Maxim or Benazol prepared according to the instructions. Then allow excess liquid to drain and mix the substrate with cherry pits in a ratio of 2:1 or 1:1. The jar is closed with a plastic lid and buried in the ground.

    In the spring, when the ground thaws, the jar is dug up and the contents gently shaken out. Cherry seeds with seedlings are planted in soil prepared in the fall or in separate cups.

    The second method of stratification of pits of cherries

    Before stratification, cherry pits are soaked in water and left to swell for 3-5 days. Water at this time is changed every day for fresh water. The pits are then mixed with the substrate described in the first stratification method. Plastic containers are filled with this mixture and kept for 90-120 days on the warmest, where the temperature ranges from 1-3 ° C, the shelf of the refrigerator (the one farthest from the freezer). During this time, the bones will crack, and some of them will hatch. Sprouted seeds are ready for planting in the ground.

    Already in the process of stratification, some bones are broken

    Stratification and sprouting of the bone - video

    Stratification of the house - video

    Care for planting

    when landing of shifted bones in the soil of the diligence of the depths of the dadel. especially when planting in pots. Some advise leaving the stone only a third deep, others recommend covering it with a centimeter layer of soil, others advise deepening it by 5 centimeters. Apparently, finding the right answer that matches the quality of the soil used, the place where the plant is grown, climate, weather and other conditions can only be empirically.

    When sprouts appear from the seeds, you will have to take care of them, like all other plants: weed, loosen, water, monitor their health. When they reach 25-30 cm, the cherries can be planted outdoors . The prescribed care for cherries allows them to grow up to half a meter in a season.

    These small seedlings will turn into seedlings half a meter high in a season.

    By the way, when caring for young plants, you should remember that a cherry planted in soil fertilized in autumn does not need top dressing. When growing cherries in pots, only after 2 months from the time of planting, the plants are fed, but there are no general recommendations for this process. The decisive moments are the nutritional value of the soil, the size of the container, the condition of the plant, and even the purpose of cultivation - growing a seedling to move into open ground or, for example, creating a bonsai.

    Seed-grown seedlings require careful care.

    Cherry pits planted directly in the garden in autumn can sprout as early as early spring. Seedlings will need to be thinned out, leaving only the strongest shoots located at a distance sufficient to grow a tree (4-5 meters apart). It is desirable that they were already in the place of permanent cultivation, and they did not have to be transplanted. Cherry does not like transplanting, it is difficult to adapt to a new place .

    I can confirm the last thought from my own experience. Not far from our site, as well as throughout the village, there are many cherries that have scattered themselves. A few years ago we dug up one of these cherries, she was then about four years old, and planted in our garden. While she came to her senses, we fooled around for a long time, maybe paying more attention than other garden trees. For three years she did not feel very well: she did not get sick, but the growth was very weak, and in autumn the leaves on her turned yellow and fell off earlier than on other trees. This year, the first berries finally appeared on it, a little - a dozen or two. Well, she disappointed us with the taste of her fruits. Unlike the tree under which she grew up, and whose daughter we considered her, our cherries turned out to be incredibly sour. Now we are thinking about what to do with it. And my daughter completely lost the desire to grow cherry trees from stones, although earlier she simply burned with this idea. But back to caring for young cherries grown from seeds.

    Young trees should be watered according to the weather, but in such a way that the soil under them does not dry out. At the same time, throughout the summer, weeds should be periodically weeded out as necessary and the earth should be loosened after watering and rainfall.

    From the second year of life, when the first branches take shape on a young tree, you can begin to form a crown, as recommended for a cherry seedling a. Then annually carry out spring pruning, continuing to build up skeletal branches.

    Three-year-old trees can already serve as stock for varietal grafting.

    Seedlings should be fed twice per season with urea or nitrogen nitrate, halving the concentration recommended in the instructions for fertilizers. Top dressing is applied in early spring and in the middle of summer, combining it with watering.

    Preparing for the first wintering is of great importance for young cherries. They begin the process with abundant (at least 8 liters per plant) water-charging watering of trees after harvesting fallen leaves and digging the earth. Next, the trunk circle is mulched with peat, sawdust, rotted foliage, or instead, the roots are covered with an additional layer of earth. On a layer of such protection of the roots from frost, snow is later piled up. If you put straw or sprinkle sawdust on top of the snow, young cherries will not only comfortably winter, but will bloom later in the spring and avoid spring frosts.

    In the first years of young trees, the roots are covered for the winter and the trunk is insulated

    In areas where winters are very cold, young cherries, sensitive to frost, are insulated for the first few years not only by the roots, but also by the trunk and crown. Perform this operation in the last third of October. The trunk of the tree is wrapped with newsprint or other paper, burlap, the branches are bent to the trunk and covered with a fabric cover. When the heat returns, the shelter is removed.

    As you can see, growing cherries from the stone does not make any special or excessive work. Not the gods burn the pots. The gardener only needs to decide for himself whether he has enough time and patience to do this slow business, and whether he has a need to grow cherries from stones.

    Rate the article:

    [Votes: 1 Average: 5]

    The best varieties of cherries from our collection

    From ancient times until the end of the 70s of the last century, cherries were considered the most popular stone fruit in our country. There was not a single garden, summer cottage or household plot where cherry trees loved by everyone would not grow.

    However, in the early 1980s, our horticulture suffered a heavy blow. Terrible stone fruit diseases that came from Europe - moniliosis and coccomycosis in just a few years destroyed the lion's share of industrial gardens and reached amateur plantings.

    Because of this misfortune, many gardeners have refused to plant cherries in their plots, preferring other fruit crops.

    But domestic and foreign breeders, actively working on the creation of new varieties resistant to coccomycosis and moniliosis at the genetic level, have achieved amazing results.

    They bred varieties that are practically not affected by terrible diseases. These novelties are also distinguished by high yield, large-fruitedness, as well as excellent taste and aroma of cherry berries.

    And today the cherry returns to amateur gardens of Russians. With proper care, the best new varieties of cherries grow beautifully and bear fruit abundantly in most of our country.

    However, when growing them, it is necessary to take into account some biological features of cherry bushes and trees.

    We have already written about the history of cherry cultivation in our country, about the beneficial properties of its berries, about planting and caring for this very popular stone fruit crop in our articles:

    “How to care for cherries”;

    Cherry diseases: description of treatment and prevention;

    How to prune fruit trees.

    In this article we will talk about some of the biological features of cherries, recall the most important points in planting and caring for them, and present you with the best varieties from our collection, which will certainly delight you with their unpretentiousness, high yield and amazing taste of large sweet berries.


    Before we tell you about the best varieties of cherries from our collection, let's figure out which types are best for you. To do this, consider the most popular varieties.

    Cherry wood . The most common variety is common cherry. This is a tree which, if not restricted in growth by pruning, can grow up to 6 to 7 m in height.

    Massive crown with dark green oblong-oval leaves. This is a long-lived tree that, with proper care, will grow well and bear fruit for at least 50 years.

    Fruiting begins in the 4th year after planting.

    Today, a huge number of frost-resistant (up to -36 degrees) and disease-resistant varieties of common sour cherries have been created. The best of them are included in our collection.

    Bush Cherry . It is a multi-stemmed shrub 3-4 m high. The plant is annually rejuvenated due to the appearance of new shoots.

    Fruiting begins in the 2nd - 3rd year (depending on the variety).

    The life expectancy of a cherry bush is no more than 20 years. Then it degenerates, the fruits become smaller and lose their taste.

    The branches of the bush cherry are thin and very flexible. The yield is 2-3 times lower than that of the cherry tree.

    The frost resistance of bush cherries is also quite high (up to -32 degrees). The varieties included in our collection are highly resistant to fungal stone fruit diseases at the genetic level.

    Felt or Chinese cherry . The most unpretentious kind. Just a gift for beginner gardeners! And its sweet berries with a delicate cherry aroma are the favorite delicacy of the children.

    Felt cherry is a low openwork tree or shrub 2-3 m high. It was called felt cherry because the lower part of its medium-sized corrugated leaves, as well as shoots and sometimes fruits are covered with delicate pubescence, similar to velor or silky felt .

    Berries are red or crimson, slightly smaller than those of large-fruited common cherries. And their cherry flavor is weaker, but they taste sweeter and literally melt in your mouth.

    This cherry begins to bear fruit already in the second year.

    Felt cherry practically does not get sick and is not affected by pests. In addition, it does not freeze in winter, as it has increased frost resistance (up to - 40 degrees).

    It can grow in one place for more than 30 years.


    Cherry growing techniques for all varieties are almost the same.

    Fit Features . Solar lighting is of great importance for any cherry. Any shading will immediately lead to a slowdown in the growth of trees or bushes and a sharp decrease in yield.

    It does not tolerate flooding by rain and melt water, as well as the close occurrence of groundwater.

    Therefore, for cherries, choose the sunniest, slightly elevated places. In low-lying areas, plant plants on artificial mounds 60 - 70 cm high and 80 cm in diameter.

    Cherries do not tolerate acidic soils. Neutral or slightly alkaline (pH 7.0 - 7.5) are best suited for it. Neutralize acidic soils a couple of months before planting with dolomite flour (for digging a plot of 2 kg per 5 sq. M).

    So if you want to plant the best varieties of cherries in your garden in autumn, start preparing the site for planting them in July.

    Care instructions for . For rapid growth and early fruiting, cherries need organic and mineral supplements. The first, nitrogen, is carried out with a solution of urea immediately after the snow melts 92 tbsp. spoons in a bucket of warm water for each plant).

    Nitrogen at the beginning of spring gives the cherry a powerful impetus to grow and grow green leaves. Another top dressing with liquid manure in a ratio of 1:10 with water should be carried out during the flowering period.

    After fruit set, cherries need phosphorus and potassium (superphosphate and potassium sulfate - 2 tbsp. in the trunk circles for each plant).

    In autumn, be sure to feed cherries with some ready-made mineral complex for autumn feeding of fruit crops (such as Fertiki), which contains not only phosphorus and potassium, but also a whole complex of microelements necessary for fruit crops.

    In addition to these fertilizers, cherries need calcium, which is necessary for them to form stones in their fruits. If the cherry does not have enough of it, then it will drop all the ovaries!

    Apply calcium three times during the summer: in April, June and August. You can use egg shells crushed into flour (a liter jar for one cherry), crushed chalk (500 g for one plant) or a solution of calcium chloride (4 tablespoons per bucket of water).

    Read more about how to properly plant and care for cherries in our article:

    How to care for cherries.


    We talked about some of the biological features of cherries, recalled the main points that must be considered when planting and caring for it.

    Now we want to present you the best varieties of cherries from our unique collection of fruit crops.

    Our collection of cherries

    Low-growing bush varieties:

    Uralskaya ruby, Brusnitsyna, Biryusinka, Izobilnaya, Lebedyanskaya.

    Learn more