How to make miniature cherry blossom tree
Easy DIY Cherry Blossom Flowering Tree
Here's how to make your own easy DIY Cherry Blossom Flowering Tree. It's based on the same tree structure as the Halloween Twisted Trees, but prettier. Then just add cute little spring blossoms.
Really, it's easy. I've included a free PDF with written tutorial on how to make this cute Cherry Blossom Flowering Tree in the Paper Glitter Glue library.
So let's get started making the Easy DIY Cherry Blossom Flowering Tree.
Spring flowering paper tree with the Paper Mache Easter Egg Diorama and the Pull Toy Bunny
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Materials to make the Easy DIY Cherry Blossom Flowering Tree
- Floral wire
- Wire Cutters
- Newspaper or brown packing paper
- Collage medium
- Paint - shades of yellow and brown:
- Fossilized Amber
- Scattered Straw
- Frayed Burlap
- Brushed Corduroy
- Walnut Stain
- Ground Espresso
- Crepe paper
Cherry Blossom Flowering Tree with the Miniature Irish Stone Cottage
Steps to make the Easy DIY Spring Blossom Tree:
- Make the Spring Flowering Tree
- Paint your Spring Twisted Tree
- How to make the Cherry Blossoms
- Glue your Blossoms on your little twisted tree
Make the Spring Flowering Tree
First make the Spring tree using the instructions in the Twisted Tree Tutorial.
Briefly, I'll go over the basic instructions here just to emphasize the main steps, but the Twisted Tree Tutorial has much more detail.
Cut the wire to size
So you need to cut your floral wire long enough to make the roots and the branches. Most of my trees are about 7 inches long with the trunk about 3-4 inches tall. That means you add 1-2 inches for the branches and roots.
The photo below shows the height of the Spring Blossom tree.
Twist several strands of wire together to make the branches and roots.
Vary the length of the branches so your tree will look more realistic.
Tear Strips of Paper to wrap around the wire
For the twisted trees I like to use brown packing paper that I save from packages I receive. Newspaper or tissue will work as well.
Use collage medium as the glue to secure the twisted paper around the wire
I like to use collage medium because it's in a little jar and is so easy to smear on the paper. But you can use plain white glue if you want.
Twist strands of paper-wrapped wire together
Now here is how you build the structure of the tree itself - by wrapping the paper-wrapped wire sections together.
If needed, add more branches or more thickness on the trunk
Sometimes I realize that I didn't make enough branches or that the trunk isn't thick enough, so I add extra paper-covered wires wherever needed.
Trim any exposed wire
On the Cherry Blossom Tree it's not as necessary to trim any exposed wire ends because you can just glue blossoms on the ends of the branches. Still I like to trim them just so the branches won't poke somebody.
Paint the Spring Blossom Tree
It's important to paint the Spring Tree so that it looks like a growing tree unlike the creepy, dead-looking trees I use on my Halloween houses.
Here's how to do it.
First here is the gesso primer layer.
If you look at tree bark closely, you notice that there is a lot of dimension, depth, and color variation in the bark. To mimic that color variation, I layer the paint starting with lighter colors gradually moving to darker ones just like I do when I paint a stone texture.
You can see the gradual build-up of color in the photos below.
Make the Cherry Blossoms to decorate your Spring Tree
Now that you have your tree done, make the cherry blossoms. You can see how I make the leaves in the photos and the video.
What are your Material options for the blossoms on your little tree?
You have some material choices for the cherry blossoms. One option is to use tissue paper which works, but it is a little more difficult to use because it tears easily.
For the second option you can use the crepe paper streamers you buy at a paper store or dollar store. This paper is easier to work with than tissue paper and is still very inexpensive. But it is also a bit fragile.
What is the best option? It's a higher quality crepe paper that has more weight and body to it. Since this crepe paper twists beautifully and doesn't tear as readily, it is much easier to work with. I ordered it online since I didn't have a local store to purchase from.
See how much nicer this crepe paper twists. I love the way the wrinkles on the paper look like veins on a leaf.
Now cut a strip of green crepe paper to make the leaves
I cut a long strip of green crepe paper to make the leaves. Cut the paper along the grain of the wrinkly part of the crepe paper. The leaves look better that way.
Fold the green crepe paper strip back and forth about 1.5 inches long. That will be the part you cut to make the leaves.
Next cut the folded crepe paper into a diamond shape
What's nice here is that you don't have to worry about cutting individual leaves, just cut the corners off your folded rectangle for the leaves.
Here's the magic part of the making the leaves for your cherry blossoms
Just twist your crepe paper in the middle and now you have two leaves. Because of the twist, it makes an oval shape like a regular leaf. And the wrinkles in the crepe paper mimic the veins on the leaves.
Sometimes the leaves tear a little bit, but don't worry about it. When you glue your blossoms on the leaves or onto the tree you can cover up that torn part.
Now to make the cherry blossoms
I experimented a little bit here. For this step I found the easiest way to make the blossoms for our springtime paper tree is to just cut a small rectangle of crepe paper and just roll it into a ball. It makes a very convincing little blossom with no stressful fussy cutting or folding.
Finally glue the cherry blossom to the center of the leaves
Plop down a blob of glue in the center of the pair of leaves and place the blossom in the glue. That's really all there is to it. Now you can be as picky as you want about tucking in edges of the paper, but I don't worry it. After all this is still a twisted tree - not some precise work of art.
And just glue your blossoms on your tree
This is the easiest step of all. Just glue your blossoms wherever you think they are needed on your little Springtime twisted tree. For this step you can totally cover the tree with a burst of blooms or just add a few blossoms. Now it's all up to you.
I just squeeze some glue on the branch where I want the blossom to go and place the spring blossom there. Sometimes they move a little bit, but it's ok.
So you have finished your Easy DIY Cherry Blossom tree! What to do with it? Use it around one of your little glitter houses, your Easter decor, or even to decorate a cake. You'll find that people just like to look at it.
If you would like to download the Easy DIY Cherry Blossom Tree PDF:
- Access the Paper Glitter Glue Library
- Click the blue link in the middle of the page to get to the password-protected page
- Type in the password to the library on the password-protected page
- Now you are in the actual library part.
- Click on the download you would like. They are listed with the most recent first. You can click on as many as you would like.
If you don't have the password, just subscribe to my newsletter below and you will get the password immediately and in every email. Don't worry, I hate spam too. I will never share your address or send you any spam.
Thank you for reading. I hope you have a lovely, creative day.
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Folk remedies to increase the yield of cherries
Summer residents often observe lush cherry blossoms, which please the eye and saturate the air with a delicate aroma, but as a result, few berries appear. It seems as if something is preventing the tree from bearing fruit, but usually the opposite is true - it lacks something. Popular wisdom will tell you exactly what.
It is very difficult to make an adult cherry tree grown on loamy and poorly prepared soil abundantly bear fruit. Experienced gardeners know that this crop prefers light sandy soil with a neutral acid-base reaction. On acidic soil, cherries become ill with coccomycosis, a fungal infection that drastically reduces productivity, undermines the tree's immunity and can cause its death in winter.
If the ground in your area is dense, then the bottom of the pit for the seedling should be tamped down and a layer should be made to neutralize the excess acidity of the soil. Furnace ash is perfect for this purpose. Pour a liter jar into the prepared pit, and on top you can add another layer of charcoal (about 5 cm).
This filter will prevent acidification of the soil at the roots of the tree.
The soil extracted from the pit is mixed with ash, rotted compost, sand and complex fertilizer for cherry trees. The proportions are as follows: 3 parts of earth, 1 part of sand, 1 part of compost, a liter can of ash and fertilizer, the amount of which is measured in accordance with the instructions.
In order to maintain the neutral balance of the soil around the tree for all subsequent seasons, twice a year (in spring and autumn) pour a half-liter jar of ash onto the near-stem circle and mulch the surface with dry grass or compost. The potassium contained in the ash is quickly absorbed, promotes the formation of ovaries and abundant fruiting.
An additional effect of reducing the acidity of the soil is given by preparations that have calcium in their composition. Ready-made fertilizers can be replaced with crushed eggshells. It is used both for mulching and for making liquid top dressing.
To prepare an infusion, add powder from 4-5 crushed shells to a liter of boiling water and leave for several days, stirring regularly. The earth along the perimeter of the near-stem circles is pierced with a pitchfork and this area is watered with the resulting infusion (0.5 l of concentrate per bucket of water).
The hard shell of raw eggs is considered more nutritious for plants. In any home, this material accumulates in abundance if the family loves scrambled eggs.
A shell of boiled eggs is not too rich in trace elements, but it is quite suitable for mulching the garden.
Very often, when planting bushes or trees, a coin is tossed to the bottom of the pit. It is not known whether this is only due to belief, or whether the metal (the copper composition from which the Soviet penny was made) really enriches the soil.
At the end of the last century, scientists from the city of Kirovograd IP Ivanko carried out serious research in this direction. With their help, it was found that metal objects placed in the soil at some distance from each other (several pieces of steel wire or tin cans) under the influence of the Earth's geomagnetic field and catalysts in the form of water, sun and fertilizers create a kind of battery for electrical appliances.
The movement of microcurrents accelerates chemical reactions occurring in the soil, breaks down nutrient molecules and forms free ions, which are more easily absorbed by plant roots, heal trees and increase yields. Therefore, it will be useful to use such an unusual method of feeding cherries.
It is only necessary to keep in mind that metal objects buried in the ground rust and collapse under the influence of moisture. After about three years, new tin cans or pieces of scrap iron will have to be buried in the garden.
Another original way to make cherries bear fruit is to throw a handful of pure river sand into the crown of a flowering tree. Experienced gardeners find this simple technique very effective.
Fine sand particles will not damage branches or petals, and pollen will be shaken off the stamens. This action will improve the cross-pollination of the cherry tree and, as a result, will spur the formation of fruits. The method is somewhat similar to tapping on the stems of vegetable crops growing in greenhouses, where insects rarely fly.
Ocean plants and inhabitants are rich in iodine, a rare microelement in nature. Therefore, fishmeal and algae are often used to feed garden trees. In addition, fertilizers from these natural materials contain hormones, enzymes and vitamins that contribute to the flowering and fruiting of cherries.
In the warm season, a large amount of algae can be found in the surf on the beaches of any coast. Marine plants should be collected damp. Only fresh and not too strong-smelling specimens are suitable.
The found material is washed with running water to get rid of sand, dirt and excess salt. The washed seaweed is put into a large container (barrel, bucket), completely filled with cold water and left to cook for about a month.
The formulation should be thoroughly mixed every 2-3 days and its odor assessed. If the fertilizer has ceased to smell sharply of ammonia, then it has acquired the desired consistency and is ready for use. After filtering this nutrient liquid, fruit trees can be watered.
Since the fertilizer contains phosphorus, it will be most useful at the end of August, when the crop is harvested and the tree is preparing for a difficult winter and a new season. The rest of the algae in the barrel can be reused, but the value of such a composition is reduced.
Residents of central Russia, far from seaside resorts, can use dry kelp bought at a pharmacy or an Asian grocery store to feed the garden. The powder is simply poured onto tree trunks. It gradually softens, and nutrients are absorbed into the soil.
- Author: iarriba
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How to grow cherries from the stone, including at home
Cultivation of cherries from seeds does not allow for reliable preservation of varietal characteristics. Therefore, gardeners prefer vegetative methods: root shoots are separated, cuttings are rooted, and grafted. But sometimes you can’t do without seed propagation. For example, you need to get a plant that is well adapted to local conditions, you want to form a bonsai or get a rare variety, and other propagation methods are not available.
1 How to plant a cherry from the stone: step by step instructions with photo
2 Preparatory work: bone processing
3 Cherry pit stratification - the most important stage of germination
4 In what land to plant a stone
5 Plant Care
6 Felt Pit Cherry
How to plant a cherry from the stone: step by step instructions with photo
The process of growing one of the most delicate fruit crops in the Russian garden from seeds involves the following simple steps:
- Select the most ripe, beautiful, large berries.
- Remove pulp from cherry pits, rinse with water, then with a pink solution of potassium permanganate, dry in a shady place. In the photo below, the bones are cleaned of pulp using a simple device - a stone pusher. Housewives are well acquainted with him, who prefer to prepare pitted cherry jam.
The best way to remove the pits and keep the berries as whole as possible is with the
- Mix the bones with damp sand, put in a cool place. Here they will be located from the end of August to October.
Attention! Most often, only building sand is available to urban residents, but it is undesirable to take it. It is distinguished from the river by the lack of the necessary friability, water and air permeability. When moistened, it sticks together, blocking access to air. In such sand, there is a high probability of damage to the bones. Coarse-grained river sand should be taken. It is also called quartz.
River or quartz sand is the best substrate for storing bones
- In October, sow into the ground, digging 3 cm deep.
- During the winter, the bones naturally stratify.
- Seedlings will appear in spring.
This method has its disadvantages - it is difficult to control the process. This method is not suitable for those who have only a few seeds of a particularly valuable cherry variety. Also, it will not work if the region has unstable frosty winters with weak snow cover - nevertheless, the cherry culture is quite tender. Some cherries, for example, varieties Troitskaya, reproduce well by self-sowing in Siberian conditions. But in such cases, we are talking about bones obtained from a tree already adapted to the difficult conditions of the region.
Therefore, you can save the cherry stones until December, and then artificially strafitize. When storing, observe the required humidity and temperature - up to 20 ° C. Bones should be periodically inspected for damage and mold. You can mix them not only with sand, but also with peat, and with moss, and with sawdust - any bulk material, the main thing is that the bones do not dry out, and at the same time do not become damp. Of course, it is optimal to plant stone fruits immediately after they have been eaten, but this is not always possible. It is important not to overdry them - this is one of the common reasons that the seeds do not germinate at all. It is enough to dry the bones slightly, and then immediately place them in the desired substrate. Keeping the bones dry is not recommended - they sprout worse. There is such a thing - post-harvest seed ripening. Cherry pits, like many crops that are forced to survive a long winter, also tend to ripen, so sowing dry seeds before winter is a mistake.
Sphagnum moss grows everywhere in mixed and coniferous forests, but it can also be bought
Instructions for growing cherries from the stone for those who want to control the process looks like this:
- Take pits from frozen cherries to be defrosted in early March, or simply store pits in the refrigerator until then. Thus, the bones will already be stratified.
- In March, put the bones in coarse (river) sand or wet sawdust. Cover with glass, put in a bright place. Cherry pits are not used to heat, find a cool window sill with a temperature of 15–20 ° C
- Periodically, crops should be ventilated and moistened.
- In two months the bones will sprout.
- Now they can be sorted, the strongest ones can be planted several times in holes prepared in the garden or in pots. A cracked bone with the main root showing up is laid on its side, sprinkled with soil so that it is not visible, and after a couple of days the excess soil is removed, exposing the bone by two-thirds. Or you should immediately dig in half. It is important that the root "understand" that it needs to grow down, but the bone can be observed.
This method is more convenient because you can immediately select the strongest plants and plant them in a permanent place.
Young, just sprouted cherry plant with cotyledons and two true leaves
Below we will consider the two most important stages of growing cherries from the stone: what other options for stratification are there and how to speed up germination by properly processing the stone.
Preparatory work: bone processing
The faster the stone bursts, the faster the plants will germinate. Therefore, to accelerate the germination of stone fruit seeds (apricots, peaches, cherries), a lot of techniques are used. The hard shell is affected thermally, physically, chemically. The easiest way to speed up the germination of cherries is to soak the seeds in water for several days before stratification. The water must be changed frequently. After 4-5 days, they begin to stratify.
It has also been observed that the acceleration of germination is affected by temperature contrast. The higher the run-up between the highest and the lowest temperature, the faster the seeds wake up. The popular treatment of seeds with boiling water is based on this observation. Seeds are spread on a mesh material and poured with boiling water, they are exposed to temperature shock for just a few seconds.
High temperatures can be useful if the seeds were acquired late, for example in the spring, and there is no time for a long seed stratification. Before the emergence of seedlings, you need to allocate a month. And before that, contrast pre-sowing preparation is used. The bones should be soaked in warm water, keep them in it for 3 days, periodically changing the water. Then soak for 20 minutes in a solution of pink potassium permanganate. Then you need to put the bones in the freezer (temperature -6C) for 1.5–2 hours. After that, pull out the bones, transfer to a warm room, pour water at about 50–55 ° C (warmth that is pleasant for the hand). If the bone does not crack, repeat the procedure. Now you can sow the seeds and wait for germination.
Scarification is a mechanical action on a rigid shell. Usually it is carefully filed with a file to make it easier for the plant to break the barrier. You can try piercing. In nature, the shell becomes thinner under the influence of a mass of factors - moisture, temperature changes, bacteria. Such a long and varied exposure without the risk of mold is not always possible at home. Just keep in mind that scarification does not cancel stratification and the entire landing sequence. To wake up the embryo and stimulate its growth, temperature dynamics are needed, and scarification only makes it easier for it to get out. Perform scarification before stratification and soaking.
Hard seed scarification with file
Cherry pit stratification - the most important stage of germination
Stratification is required! Cherry is a garden plant whose seeds go through a phase of deep dormancy. In such seeds, the germs of the seeds are not only protected by a strong shell that is not very susceptible to natural destroyers, but they are exposed to the action of special substances that slow down the maturation of the embryo. Natural wintering for them is a signal for gradual preparation for germination - substances begin to be produced, on the contrary, stimulating growth. As soon as the amount of these substances reaches a certain level, the seed germinates.
If it is not possible to place cherry pits outside, they are artificially hibernated.
Treated stone is mixed with loose substrate. It can be sawdust, moss, sand, vermiculite, peat, or mixtures thereof in any proportion. Some take ready-made soil for cacti. Nutritional value is not yet required from the mixture, its mechanical properties are important - it should be loose, well-permeable to moisture and air. The mixture with the seeds is put in a container, preferably transparent, covered with a lid, in which several holes have been previously made, put in the refrigerator for 2–3 months (4–5⁰C degrees). Be sure to regularly inspect - at least 1 time per week. Although it all depends on the microclimate and the initial data of the substrate, you can forget about planting for the whole winter, and neither mold nor fungal diseases will affect the planting material. If, nevertheless, the first signs of mold are found, the bones should be removed, washed, treated with potassium permanganate, planted again in a sterile substrate.
This is a dry stratification variant. After it, the bones are soaked and sent for germination. But a variant of wet stratification is also possible - the soil with bones is slightly moistened, and then put in the refrigerator. Which way is better is debatable. For apple and apricot seeds, the “long dry wintering + subsequent soaking” scheme gives really excellent results: already on the seventh day in water, the hard shell of the apricot bursts and sprouts begin to appear. A clear plus of the dry method is less risk that the bone will begin to rot. On the other hand, wet stratification is closer to natural conditions and, presumably, such pits will germinate faster. There are no experimental reliable studies on this topic.
Seeds in plastic containers, prepared for refrigerated stratification
In what land to plant a stone
The optimal soil for planting cherry seeds is that in which the mother tree grew. In its absence, you can use nutritious store soil for growing seedlings. For sprouting cherry seeds at home, pots of small volume, no more than 0.5 liters, are suitable. If there are a lot of seeds, they can be planted in bowls, keeping a distance of at least 20 cm when planting.
The seeds must be buried 2–3 cm into the soil. To maintain moist conditions, plantings are covered with a plastic bag and placed on a bright, cool windowsill. Regularly ventilate and inspect. Bones germinate in a month. If you planted seeds with a cracked shell, then they can germinate within a week after planting.
If we are talking about growing sakura (small serrated cherry), then the choice of soil is approached more carefully. The soil should be capacious, nutritious - humus, nitrogenous and potash fertilizers are introduced.
Cherry serrated or sakura shaped like bonsai
If the stones were sown immediately in open ground, then after the emergence of seedlings in the spring they will require standard care, as for seedlings obtained by vegetative methods. The trunk circle is loosened, watered, the plants are inspected for the appearance of pests, weeds are removed. By autumn, seedlings can grow up to half a meter. Now they can be transplanted to a permanent place.
If the plant is planted in a pot, they look for a very bright, not hot place, protected from drafts. Regular wet cleaning is required in the room.
Watering is best ... with snow. Melt water has a special purity and structure; it has not yet absorbed salts and heavy elements from the earth. Fresh snow is spread on the ground without touching the sprouts.
Clean, fresh snow is best for watering young seedlings
It is not necessary to fertilize young plants if they are planted in nutrient soil - on the contrary, there is a risk of overfeeding. Only potted plants are fed 2 months after planting, but there are no general recommendations for feeding in this case - it all depends on the goals of growing and the initial data (bonsai formation, growing for the purpose of transplanting to a permanent place, pot size, soil nutrition, plant health ).
Felt Pit Cherry
Felt cherry inherits traits well when propagated by seed, so it is often grown from seeds. This method allows you to get calibrated, aligned and highly adaptive plants. The germination of the seeds is almost one hundred percent - out of 10 seeds sprout 8. The principles of planting do not differ from those described above. Detailed step by step instructions:
- The most healthy plants with large fruits and high yields are selected in advance.
- Collected seeds are sown in autumn in fertile light soil 45–60 days before the onset of frost.
- For spring sowing, store, stratify and germinate as described above.
- Some seeds germinate faster. To stop their growth and get friendly shoots, a container with seeds is added dropwise to the snow. Keep at 0°C until sowing.
- Prepare the soil: per 1 sq. m. - 10–15 kg of humus, 40 g of double superphosphate, 20 g of potassium sulfate.
- Make a groove. Seeds are spread side by side at a depth of 2-3 cm.
- Sowing is mulched with a thin layer of humus. Max. 1 cm.
- Seedlings will appear within 2-3 weeks.
- As soon as the seedlings have 3 true leaves, they are thinned out for the 1st time, leaving the strongest plants.
- Thin out a second time when 4-6 leaves appear. As a result, at least 6 cm should remain between the seedlings.
- Standard care - weeding, loosening. Some recommend feeding twice a season.
- By autumn the seedlings will reach 60-70 cm. They can be planted in a permanent place.
Felt cherry seedlings, two years old
The weakest plants are grown in the same place for another 1 year, and transplanted to a permanent plant only next autumn.
Young cherries grown from pits are cared for in the same way as trees obtained by other methods. The only difference is that the trees will bear fruit for 3–4 years, and not for 1–2, but the loss of time will pay off. Cherries obtained by seed are much more likely to take root even in difficult conditions, reach maturity and bear fruit for the entire period allotted to them - 30-35 years.