How to make oak trees grow fast


How to Make Your Live Oak Grow Faster | Home Guides

By Maureen Malone Updated May 19, 2021

Live oak (Quercus virginiana), also called southern live oak, is a popular shade tree in the Southeastern United States. Live oak tree height is 40 to 80 feet with a spread of 60 to 100 feet. These trees need minimal care and maintenance, but you can help them grow faster by ensuring they have optimal growing conditions. The tree is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 to 10, advises Missouri Botanical Garden.

Optimize Live Oak Growth Rate

Live oak trees are long-lived trees that may live more than 150 years. The live oak growth rate is 24 to 36 inches per year, advises CalPoly Urban Forest Ecosystems Institute. Plant the live oak in a location where it will have room to grow to its full height and width. The roots also need room to grow, so avoid planting the tree too close to sidewalks or other structures that may be damaged by the roots. Also, avoid any construction or digging that may damage the roots.

The live oak will tolerate partial shade but grows best when it gets full sun. It will tolerate a wide range of soil conditions, but for the fastest growth, plant the live oak in moist, well-drained, acidic soil, advises the University of Florida IFAS Extension. The tree will grow in many soil types, including sandy, clay and loam soils. It tolerates alkaline soil, drought, wind and salt spray when grown near the coast. Avoid overly wet soil and standing water around the tree's roots.

Live Oak Tree Pruning

While established live oaks need minimal care, pruning is important during the first 30 years. Initially, you will want to prune a young tree annually. After three years, you can increase the amount of time between prunings to five years, advises the University of Florida IFAS Extension. Prune during the summer or when the tree is dormant.

Prune the tree to train it to grow from a single stem to keep the tree strong enough to reach its full height. As the tree gets taller, you may want to trim the lower branches to ensure there is plenty of clearance under the branches and to improve the appearance of the tree. You should also remove any dead, damaged or diseased branches.

Prevent spreading infections to your live oak while pruning by disinfecting all of your pruning tools before making any cuts. You can do this by thoroughly wiping the blades with a household disinfectant, such as Lysol, advises University of Florida IFAS Gardening Solutions.

Prevent Disease and Pests

While these trees are generally strong and free from major problems, certain conditions may prevent the tree from reaching the full live oak tree height. Root rot, a fungal disease, is a concern, especially when the soil doesn't have adequate drainage. Symptoms include mushroom growth near the base of the tree and a general decline in the tree's health, advises Clemson University Cooperative Extension Service. Remove the tree and be sure to dig out as much of the root system as possible. Avoid planting another oak in the same location unless the species or cultivar is resistant to the fungus.

Live oaks are also susceptible to oak wilt. Symptoms of oak wilt include crinkled leaves or wilting and browning of the leaves starting from the outside edges, advises the University of Florida IFAS Extension. Oak wilt is fatal, and you should remove and destroy infected trees immediately to prevent spreading the disease to nearby oaks.

Things You Will Need

References

  • Missouri Botanical Garden: Quercus virginiana
  • CalPoly Urban Forest Ecosystems Institute: Southern Live Oak
  • University of Florida IFAS Extension: Quercus virginiana: Southern Live Oak
  • University of Florida IFAS Gardening Solutions: Disinfecting Your Garden Tools
  • Clemson University Cooperative Extension Service: Oak Diseases & Insect Pests

Warnings

  • Do not fertilize your live oak for six months after severe pruning or root damage.
  • Excessive pruning may harm or even kill your live oak. Pruning should be done by a certified arborist to avoid overthinning,

Writer Bio

Maureen Malone has been a professional writer since 2010 She is located in Tucson, Arizona where she enjoys hiking, horseback riding and martial arts. She is an outdoor lover who spends her weekends tending her raised garden and small orchard of fruit trees.

5 Tips for Great Oak Tree Health

Canadian entrepreneur and philosopher Matshona Dhliwayo once said, “An Oak tree is a daily reminder that great things often have small beginnings.” Oak trees have been renowned as a ubiquitous symbol of timelessness and strength throughout history.

Oak trees are some of the most magnificent trees found on earth. Across the world, there are more than 300 variations of these majestic forest giants.

They’re often favored over pines in landscaping because of their large, stocky bases, but oaks are also vulnerable to disease, illness, and stress. So if you have oak trees in your backyard, keep in mind these five tips on how to take care of oak tree health.

Fertilization

Fertilizing is the first and foremost step toward taking your care of your oak tree. A mature oak tree doesn’t need to be fertilized under natural or undamaged conditions. However, if there has been planting, uprooting, or nearby land disturbance, it’s essential to add some fertilizer to the tree base. It will help the oak tree grow faster in its new environment.

Fertilizer is also essential for the survival of infected trees, which may require additional nutrients. The fertilization of an oak controls the minerals phosphorus, potassium, and nitrogen. These are needed for greener, richer foliage. Making sure your tree has enough minerals and nutrients to grow healthy branches and leaves will increase its ability to capture sunlight and generate food and energy.

Soil

Soil cover is the second aid you can give to oak tree health and survival. Nutrients, minerals, water, air, and gases are present in the soil, and these will nurture the tree.

It’s vital to keep a few inches of soil over the tree’s roots to prevent erosion or root damage. This covering of soil should start about six inches from the tree trunk and shouldn’t cover the bark. You don’t want the rootstocks to become enclosed.

It’s crucial to remember that planting under the canopy of the oak should be avoided. Azaleas and rhododendrons would be especially harmful because they need a different type of soil and can spread infectious diseases.
If you need to plant something, plant shrubs or trees that thrive with similar soil and water requirements. Native plants like currants (Ribes species) or coral bells are both viable options.

Prevent compaction of the soil around oaks too. Heavy machinery used in construction may damage the root structure permanently.

Last but not least, don’t use rocks around the base of oak trees. Stones and pebbles will absorb moisture and may kill the tree by fungus.

Watering

As far as watering oak trees is concerned, less is more. Oaks enjoy a natural seasonal change, which means they need minimal additional watering. Even during a dry summer, one or two soakings is enough. An oak shouldn’t be watered more than once a month under any circumstances, though if a tree is uprooted or grafted, there may be some extra measures that will help your oak tree survive.

Also, avoid placing plants that need a lot of water near oaks, as their requirements won’t align with the oak trees’ needs. This will harm the trees in the long run.

Young oak trees may need watering once or twice a month to develop in dry seasons, but mature oaks need less. Giving mature oak trees additional, unneeded watering can create a stable environment for pathogens, causing disease. Too much moisture also contributes to oak root decay, whether due to too much rain or well-intentioned irrigation. It can also feed Phytophthora variorum, the fungus affiliated with the sudden oak death, which flourishes in cold, foggy coastal weather.

Pruning

Typically, oak trees require limited pruning, making them a perfect fit for homeowners and property owners who don’t want to spend much time in their lawn maintenance. But while mature oaks don’t necessarily require any pruning, sometimes dead branches or cleaned-off twigs need to be removed.

Pruning less mature oaks is very important so that their branches can grow to be large and the canopies and foliage can expand. In this case, oak trees should be pruned mostly during their dormant period, that is, in the winter. And be careful you don’t over prune your oak tree.

Because of the sheer complexity of pruning, a specialist who’s familiar with proper procedures and techniques should be considered. Think about contacting an arborist to ensure the pruning is done correctly.

Regular Inspection

There is a risk that harmful diseases and insects could damage an oak tree’s health. So regular visual inspections of the bark, leaves, and other areas of a tree are important. The growth of fissures in the bark usually signifies that a tree is healthy. However, discolored or loose bark indicates that the tree is infected or prone to disease. Oak bark should maintain a brownish-green appearance.

If you encounter discolored patches on your oak tree, it could be indicative of disease. In this case you, should try to eliminate the concerning area. Removing is not always an option, especially if the infection has expanded throughout the entire tree or into the upper portion, where it’s not easily approachable. But if you see damage on any small approachable branches, it’s best to remove it when you can to save your oak tree from further damage.

Need a hand to make sure the work is done right? Let Mr. Tree care for your majestic oak trees. With more than 30 years of residential and commercial tree care service experience, we believe in quality service, customer satisfaction, and professionalism.

Our professional arborists will examine your oak trees, find and remedy any problems, manage regular maintenance, and provide you with guidance on the best way to take care of your trees. Just give us a call, and we’ll inspect your trees and give you peace of mind.

Conditions for the successful cultivation of oak

Oak has a huge variety (up to 600) species. They are common in the temperate and tropical zones of the northern hemisphere, they even go to the north of South America. Many species are forest-forming species, others occur as an admixture. According to their requirements for growing conditions, they are very different from each other.

Among them there are both moisture-loving and drought-resistant, light-loving and shade-tolerant, enduring rather low temperatures and very thermophilic species. Oaks can be evergreen and deciduous, and their leaves are entire, serrated, more or less lobed.

Occasionally, oak grows in a bushy manner, some species are low trees, most species are mighty giants with a spherical crown, powerful trunks and a root system strongly developed both in depth and in width. Staminate or pistillate flowers are in different inflorescences. The fruit is an acorn surrounded by a cupule covered with scales on the outside. Oaks are propagated by acorns sown in autumn, as they quickly lose their germination capacity. For spring sowing, they must be stored at a temperature of 2-4 C. Oak can also be propagated by cuttings, but they have a low percentage of rooting. In the first year of life, the resulting taproot makes it difficult to transplant, therefore, to obtain a developed fibrous root system, it should be cut. At first, the oak grows slowly in height, after the 5th year the growth rate of the main shoot increases sharply.

This is one of the most durable breeds. Its bark, wood, acorns are used. The latter contain a large amount of starch, they are used to prepare a coffee substitute, alcohol or feed pigs. In some species of oak, acorns are sweet, edible fresh and roasted. Cork oak bark is used to make cork. The wood, bark, galls formed on the leaves, as well as the plush, contain a lot of tannins (tannins) used for tanning leather. Oak is indispensable in landscaping. It has long been the main tree along with linden in the creation of landscape parks; it is often found in manor parks in the temperate zone. It is planted in clearings with single-standing trees, creates groups, arrays, alleys, and is used in forest belts in the forest, forest-steppe and steppe zones.

Oak in garden landscape design

When we think of oak, we immediately imagine a thousand-year-old fairy-tale giant. It must be admitted that young oaks also have a solid growth ... If they are allowed. So, before settling an oak tree, let's think about what we want to see in 10-20 years. The slender oak can be a solitary lawn, but it is also possible to use its bushy form as a framing or hedge. Keep in mind that oak blooms late, so in spring you will see its openwork crown against the background of young foliage of other plants.

Planting an oak tree

The easiest way to grow an oak tree is from a mature acorn. Acorn, like many large seeds, germinates very easily. This is the most reliable way, and if you entrust this business to a child, then it is fascinating and useful. Just imagine how the child will run every day to check if the acorn has sprouted. And fantasize how he will tell his children and grandchildren that he once planted that huge oak tree himself ...

You can transplant a small oak tree from the forest or from the country street where he himself grew up. But keep in mind that even a very young oak tree has a very long root, it is difficult to dig it out entirely, especially from dense forest soil intertwined with many roots, or from a compacted roadside. The oak tree will not tolerate the slightest damage to the tap root.

Decorative molds are now also on sale. Among them there are species resistant to the main scourge - oak powdery mildew. There are also forms with an unusual color of foliage. By the way, do not get carried away with unusually colored species. Individual plants with red, golden or striped leaves look interesting against a green background. The garden, full of colorful foliage even in summer, looks at least unnatural. When laying out parks and estates, the old masters played subtly with various shades of green.

Care

Weeding and watering in the first years of life. Control and prevention of powdery mildew, especially in very young trees. This fungus does not affect the entire tree, but only affects the foliage. But the loss of foliage is dangerous for fragile plants.

Cutting and shaping

This is important. Without pruning, oak cannot be accommodated in the country house. For many trees and shrubs, I recommend starting molding as early as possible. Not so with oak. Strong pruning of a young oak turns it into an oak bush. If a hedge is not included in your plans - cut later, let the stem form. After that, you can try yourself in topiary art - to form a ball on a leg with a haircut, for example.

What is subtle? Shearing only growth throughout the crown promotes branching and thickening. This is a technique of topiary art. To maintain the natural shape of the crown, the branches must be cut "from the trunk." We remove part of the growth and entire branches. In this case, the crown turns out to be openwork and even lets in a certain amount of sunlight.

Red oak.

Red oak occupies one of the very first places in Russia in terms of popularity among other types of oak. This is not surprising: red oak is the most frost-resistant among its counterparts. Its frost resistance is 40 degrees, and if the root system is solid and the tap root is not cut, then the degree of its frost resistance increases. Despite the fact that oaks do not grow in the wild on the territory of the Tomsk region, there are specific examples of the fact that oak grows successfully in our country!

Red oak - a slender tree up to 25 m tall, with a dense tent-like crown. The trunk is covered with thin, smooth, gray bark, cracking in old trees. Young shoots are reddish-felt, annual shoots are red-brown, smooth. The leaves are deeply notched, thin, shiny, up to 15-20 cm, with 4-5 pointed lobes on each side of the leaf, reddish when blooming, dark green in summer, lighter below, in autumn, before falling off, scarlet-red in young trees, the old ones are brownish-brown.

Red oak blossoms at the same time as the leaves open. Acorns are spherical in shape, up to 2 cm, red-brown, as if chopped off from below, in contrast to English oak, ripen in the fall of the second year. It bears fruit steadily and abundantly from 15-20 years. When young, it grows faster than European oaks.

Conditions for successful oak cultivation are as follows:

- a good place to plant. Red oak loves dry and bright places with acidic soil (pH 5.5-7.5), so there is no need to pour ashes into the planting hole. It can not be planted where the soil is flooded in the spring, as well as where there is constant stagnation of water. Oak does not like stagnant water, so when landing at the bottom of the pit, it is imperative to pour drainage. And so that in a few years, when the earth in the planting pit settles, the root neck does not end up in a depression where water can accumulate in the spring, you need to plant an oak tree so that after the pit is finally filled with earth, the root neck of the seedling is on a small mound (the root neck is something where the roots meet the trunk). Over time, the mound will settle, and the root collar will be flush with the soil level. Oak is photophilous and prone to a disease called powdery mildew, so it must be planted in a bright, well-ventilated place;

- seedling health. So that the oak does not get sick with powdery mildew, it should be sprayed from time to time with an infusion of kombucha (1-2 cups of a monthly infusion per bucket of water) or shungite water, or a mixture of these solutions. But we must remember that this is a means of prevention, not control. When this fungal disease appears, it is already too late. In general, it is pointless to fight fungal diseases with the help of "chemistry", but prevention with the help of the above means gives excellent results;

- in no case should you fertilize plants with fresh manure! An excess of free nitrogen contained in manure forms loose tissues in all parts of the plant, the wood of such branches and trunks with loose tissues does not ripen by autumn, and in winter a plant fed with manure can freeze severely or even die. Also, manure-fed plants are attacked by pests and diseases, especially fungal diseases.

In red oak, unlike pedunculate, acorns ripen not in one season, but in two. And yet, an essential addition that needs to be mentioned for the successful cultivation of oak. Many plants (especially forest plants) grow very slowly without mycorrhiza on their roots. What is mycorrhiza? You probably know the different hat mushrooms that grow in the forest. So, these same mushrooms are already fruits, and the body of the mycelium itself is located in the upper layer of the soil, its hyphae (thin threads of the body of the fungus) spread horizontally for many meters, the roots of plants and forming mycorrhiza on their surface, mycorrhiza is a commonwealth of roots of different plants and fungi. Without this mutually beneficial community, some plants do not grow at all or grow very poorly, especially if they find themselves in unusual conditions. There are myceliums that specialize in some particular plants, and there are universal ones. For example, porcini mushroom grows under pine and oak, boletus under aspen, birch boletus under birch, fly agaric under different plants, common fungus is a very versatile mycorrhizal mushroom, if you manage to have it in your garden, then any plants will be happy with it, and grow and bear fruit very productively. How to infect oak roots with mycorrhiza? Find an old overgrown porcini mushroom or common oyster mushroom in the forest, bring them home, soak them for a day in a bucket of water (preferably rain or from some clean reservoir). After a day, pour this water into the holes made around the oak trunk, mulch the soil around the trunk with leaves from the forest, sow forest grasses or green manure in this place, and in no case ever loosen or dig the soil around the trees. In this case, the growth of the mycelium is disrupted, and it may die. This is the main secret of growing mycorrhizal fungi: they do not grow where the soil is loosened or dug up. When the mycelium grows (about three years later), the first mushrooms will appear. This will be a sign that you did everything right.

Red oak does not need shelter for the winter. It is prone to decay of the root neck, so you need to make sure that the root neck is ventilated and does not get wet from weeds (especially wood lice). In order to avoid root collar rot, spring melt water and ground water should not be allowed to be heated. If you have close-lying groundwater on your site, then you need to plant it on a mound and arrange drainage in the pit (fill in broken brick or expanded clay, pebbles with a layer of 15-20 cm).

Pedunculate oak (Q. robur)

One of the most important forest-forming species in Russia, widely distributed in nature from Western Europe to the Urals. In the north of the forest zone it grows along the valleys, to the south - in mixed forests with spruce, and further south it forms pure oak forests. In the forest-steppe and steppe zones, it grows along gullies and ravines, not reaching such a powerful development as in the forest zone. In urban plantations, oak can be found throughout the territory of natural distribution, with the exception, perhaps, of especially arid places. Not a single forest park, city park, old manor can do without it. The beginning of planting oak forests was laid by Peter I. The importance of oak in the national economy is great. It produces construction timber of very high quality. Beautiful and durable, it is used in carpentry, furniture, cooper production, in shipbuilding and car building, is used for the manufacture of parquet, and is also widely used for firewood.

Oak wood is light, with a beautiful pattern, after lying under water for a long time, it acquires a dark color (bog oak) and is especially valued in furniture production. Oak bark contains up to 20% tannins, wood - 6%. They are widely used for tanning leather. In a zone favorable for its growth, the oak reaches a height of 40 m, the trunk diameter exceeds 1 m. The largest old specimens live up to 1000-1500 years, while having a trunk diameter of 4 m. strong branches. Mature trees have thick, deeply fissured, grey-brown bark. Young shoots are olive-brown, then red-brown. Leaves up to 15 cm long and 7 cm wide, oblong-obovate, with ears at the base, with 6-7 obtuse, long lobes, the depressions between them reach a third of the width of the plate.

Leaves are shiny, glabrous, green above, lighter below. In the spring, in May, when the leaves begin to bloom, stamen catkins become visible at the base of the shoots. Pistillate flowers sit in the axils of the leaves on long peduncles of 2-5 pieces. Acorns are oval, 3.5 cm long and 2 cm in diameter with a spike at the top, brown-yellow, shiny, on the stalk, which is why this species is called petiolate. The plush is shallow, cup-shaped, 1 cm tall, the scales covering it are gray-pubescent. Acorns ripen in October. Oak grows best on degraded chernozems and gray forest loams, with sufficient moisture. It is demanding on mineral and organic nutrition, protection from wind and direct sunlight, especially at an early age, but it is drought and salt tolerant.

The majestic stocky giant of the forest oak is beautiful at any time of the year. In spring, it pleases with its light yellowish-green foliage and long graceful yellow inflorescences-earrings; in summer, he appears as a mighty giant with a dense dark crown, and so dense that it is able to protect both from the scorching sun and from heavy rain. In autumn, the oak appears in a new guise. Its foliage turns yellow, and then acquires a dark brown color. It falls much later than other trees. In winter, oak, even in a leafless state, is able to charm with its power, when against the background of the fallen snow, its deeply furrowed thick trunks loom, and the branches and branches intertwined in a bizarre graphic pattern resemble the fabulous Berendey's kingdom.

In our nursery you can buy oak seedlings wholesale and retail.

Trees with weeping crowns

When designing their plot, many people include weeping forms of deciduous and coniferous trees in their compositions. And, of course, they soon realize that the plant itself is unlikely to take exactly the form that its owner imagined in his head. How to form a tree? How to make it grow up or, conversely, limit growth?

Above-below
In principle, beginners of weeping varieties are within their power, since they have the makings of their wild relatives and are distinguished by their unpretentiousness and vitality. You just need to understand the right approach to them.
When you start to observe a plant that is new to you, you first of all try to feel how it lays roots and shoots, why it is so and nothing else. In our case, we are talking about hanging shoots: the phenomenon of weeping is possible only if the annual green shoots are very soft. Later, they nevertheless become woody, become strong and begin to hold their weight. (In nature, this mechanism is used by some plants: for example, linden and spruce branches tend to “hang”, protecting the trunk from sunburn in winter.) If you understand this principle: green is soft, lignified is hard, then most questions on crown formation, you can now confidently change plants in a given direction.
Let's take an example. Many varieties of weeping trees are sold grafted onto stems ranging in height from 5 cm to 1.5-2 m, so that they lay a characteristic umbrella crown at a given height. Depending on the height of the trunk, our young tree will grow in the form of a “foam” spreading on the ground, or a “fountain”, or an “umbrella” ... How, if necessary, to raise the crown above a given height? We have two options. Firstly, many weeping trees grow quite quickly spontaneously: branches nevertheless appear in their crown, growing upwards, say, at an angle of 45 ° and further into an arc - this is enough for the gradual growth of the tree. Secondly, you can put supports, fixing the shoots in the right direction up to strictly vertical. The supports are removed after sufficient thickening and hardening of the shoot. To create a trunk, choose the most powerful shoot and tie it to a pole stuck into the ground. A few years later, the next floor is created in the same way - and so on up to the desired height.
For greater reliability, it makes sense to raise several shoots at the same time, otherwise the plant may look like it is falling in one direction. A tall tree can be formed into 2-3 trunks, it is easier to maintain crown symmetry.
It is clear that the closer to the trunk the lifted shoot, the better will be its hardening. So, the ends of a weeping willow hanging into the water, no matter how you lift it, will not turn into a strong support! However, even branches remote from the trunk can harden with age to such an extent that the crown with the help of them can keep the shape of a spacious tent. It is only necessary to install temporary props and allow the branches to "cement" in the desired position. If you want the tent to grow wide enough, then when installing the supports, you should slightly raise the branches above the horizontal level. With this technique, we, firstly, support the branches in a state of active growth (as you know, the stronger the shoot is raised, the stronger it grows), and secondly, we create a reserve for lowering the canopy of branches: it will inevitably fall a little later from its own gravity. As you can see, classical pruning techniques are applicable to weeping crowns.
And if the question is not to let the crown up? We can easily maintain a low canopy by cutting off all shoots that rise above a given level. Someone likes a neat weeping shape, and someone - a violent one, in general, “weepers” calmly tolerate a haircut, as they quickly grow back. Usually, the lower the form, the more often it has to be cut, otherwise the branches will spread along the ground. However, for conifers it is even beautiful. Just do not get carried away with shortening the edges of the umbrella and completely remove the “cap” to the trunk of the grafted cultivars, since the grafting may dry out and shoots from the rootstock can grow rapidly.
Some subtleties
We emphasize that grafted plants should be handled with care. Fertilize them only once a year, in May - this is enough for the rapid growth of shoots and not enough to provoke diseases (in the fertilizer, of course, there should be a large proportion of nitrogen to enhance the weeping effect). Keep in mind that if the plant gets sick, then the graft will get sick, not the trunk! Coniferous weeping cultivars, although they are not grafted, are recommended to be planted away from currants and gooseberries, as they have common diseases.
As you probably know, if shoots begin to grow from the rootstock, then the graft is immediately in danger: now all the juices will go past the grafted part in favor of the vigorously growing shoots, and if they are not removed, the graft will inevitably die. How to make sure that the shoots growing upwards belong to the weeping scion? It only requires your observation. It is not too difficult to distinguish the botanical signs of the two different forms: if a new shoot has begun to branch and still does not form weeping, then this is clearly a wild one. Or if through the crown, for example, of the weeping birch Laciniata with narrow dissected leaves, an shoot with leaves of an ordinary birch made its way, then doubts are also superfluous.
Garden plots are decorated with weeping varieties of apple, pear, mulberry, mountain ash, yellow acacia, birch, alder, oak, ash, spruce, pine, arborvitae, larch, fir, etc. Purely from a practical point of view, small weeping forms are preferable for a 6-hundred garden plot than large ones. Because, say, Yoongi's drooping birch, although it is unusually beautiful, will eventually become a 5-7-meter tree - consider that you don't have a hundred square meters. But in large estates, where there is space to create a park and you need to isolate yourself from the “urban” views of your neighbors, full-sized weeping willows, elms, larches are indispensable ...
Beliefs
and omens
If we continue our conversation about weeping conifers, I will share other results of my “trials” with some garden beliefs and omens. Many people know the sign that it is undesirable to plant a Christmas tree on the site, unfortunately. This sign is justified, and I, for example, would refrain from planting a Christmas tree in a small area of ​​​​a few acres (although there are spacious areas where they grow like a forest - the sign has nothing to do with them). At the same time, this does not apply to weeping forms of Christmas trees at all, on the contrary, they are welcome near the house. Such is the "dialectics of nature."
Now let's talk about some of the winning places to plant weeping forms, where they look most beautiful. Well, first of all, on a flat, monotonous background, say, in the middle of a lawn or near a hedge - this is a classic choice of garden designers.
Large weeping trees, standing alone, are successfully combined with horizontal surfaces: trimmed rows of plants, paths or roofs of buildings.
Near "pillows" and "balls" trimmed shrubs or just compact plants, long strands will also look harmonious. At the same time, it is better for a weeping tree to rise above its neighbors. For example, a weeping spruce will find its place on an alpine hill among the plants of a mountain or northern forest: with undersized junipers, pines, heathers, lingonberries, etc.
According to the laws of harmony, an ampelous one should look good not only with a pronounced “non-ampelous” one, but also with an ampelous one of a different kind (contrast based on similarity, or “like attracts like”).


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