How to make your tree taller
How to make your Christmas tree look taller
Wondering how to make your Christmas tree look taller? Here is a step by step guide and easy hack to do it on a budget!
When I was a kid, my dad and I always got into a fight at the Christmas tree lot.
See, my parents have a 2-story foyer, and I hated how “small” trees looked in it.
I wanted a 10-footer, at least.
My dad wasn’t trying to spend that kind of money on a dead tree. I also doubt he felt like man handling a 10 foot tree by himself.
We always fought about it at the tree lot, but it ended up being OK once we got the “smaller” tree home and set up.
That is because my dad actually used this hack to make their tree look taller.
And even though the room that we now put our tree in is much less grand than my parent’s entryway, Sean and I do this as well!
Click here to see our 2017 Christmas trees!
This is a fantastic holiday money saving hack.
See, you pay for Christmas trees based on height.
This DIY Christmas tree stand will add at least a foot to your tree.
So, you are literally saving money by using this stand and buying a shorter tree!
Here’s how to make a Christmas tree seem taller!
How to make your Christmas tree look taller
The trick to making your Christmas tree look taller is to build a raised stand. A DIY Christmas tree box stand lifts the tree up an extra foot or more! An elevated tree looks larger than one right on the floor.
This stand isn’t gorgeous, sure. But, it is easy and inexpensive to build from plywood and makes it easy to raise your Christmas tree.
Looking for a prettier stand? Here is our DIY wooden tree stand that also raises your tree! This one doesn’t need a tree skirt over it.
This stand is super easy to build with just a few tools. Attach your plastic stand to it and your tree will be raised!
You could also do this with a fake tree. You will just need to examine the base of that tree and determine how to best attach it to the box.
You do NOT want your tree to fall off this box. It’s stable, but you should attach the stand to the box to be safe.
How to make a Christmas Tree Riser PlatformWhat you need to build a raised Christmas tree stand:
- 1 sheet of 1/2″ or 3/4″ plywood
- Plastic Christmas tree holder
- Start by cutting a square of plywood about six inches wider than your tree holder to serve as the top
- Cut two 12″ wide strips of plywood the full length of two sides of your top
- Cut two more 12″ wide strips of plywood the length of the sides, but subtract twice the thickness of your plywood
- Attach the two longer strips to the top first using screws, then attach the two shorter strips, forming a box
- Use screws to attach the sides to each other for stability
- Use screws to attach your plastic Christmas tree stand to the top
I cover the whole stand with a tree skirt. My favorite hack is to use a beautiful blanket or tablecloth as a cheaper alternative to a real tree skirt.
Be sure to check out 7 DIY Christmas tree collar ideas!
Once it is surrounded by presents, no one even notices that it is on a raised box.
Plus, it makes more room for presents and gifts underneath the tree.
I love this Christmas tree hack and hope that it helps you to save money and have a taller tree this Christmas!
Our DIY box Christmas tree stand (that also raises your tree!)
Click here to see my tutorial for a DIY Christmas tree skirt.
Other ideas to use as a DIY Christmas tree platform:
Use any of these items and cover with fabric, a sheet, a table cloth, etc, then top with a tree skirt!
- Stacked wood boards (very securely stacked)
- Crates upside down
- Wooden pallet, cut in half maybe
Any other Christmas tree hacks?
Active Time: 30 minutes
Total Time: 30 minutes
Estimated Cost: $10-50
Check out my tutorial for how to make your Christmas tree look taller by building a DIY plywood stand. The stand is fully covered by a tree skirt.
- 1 sheet of 1/2″ or 3/4″ plywood
- Plastic Christmas tree holder
- Circular saw
- Cut a square of plywood 6 inches wider than your plastic tree holder.
- Cut 2 12" wide strips of plywood the full length of your square. These will be the sides of your 12" tall box.
- Cut 2 additional 12" wide strips of plywood the length of your square MINUS twice the thickness of your plywood.
- Attach the 2 longer strips to the top using screws.
- Attach the 2 slightly shorter strips to the top and sides using screws to form a box.
- Use screws to attach your plastic Christmas tree stand to the top.
- Add your tree.
- Cover the stand with a skirt - blankets work great.
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DIY Christmas Tree Hack - Make Your Tree Taller!
DIY Christmas Tree Hack – Make Your Tree Taller!
I love tall Christmas trees, and I love to decorate them in different ways, and easy hacks for decorating them. Like, when I showed you How to string on Christmas lights the Decorator way! This time, I am going to show you my DIY Christmas Tree Hack – Make Your Tree Taller! Method for giving your Tree more height.
Through the years, we have always gotten big, tall trees, and they were all so beautiful. I used to make my own DIY Disney ornaments, by gluing two smaller ornaments, to a bigger one, to create a Mickey silhouette ornament. Our relatives who would come over, would stand in awe, next to our Disney Christmas tree, and they asked me, how much it must have cost me, for all of these ornaments. When I told them the truth, that I got the ornaments at the dollar store, and made them myself, they were in shock. I miss our tall Disney trees, with Tinker Bell as our tree topper. Those were the days.
DIY Christmas Tree Hack – Make Your Tree Taller!
These days, my kids are no longer babies, and so now that they are almost adults, making all of those handmade ornaments, and getting tall trees, becomes, tasking, because lifting it of the roof of the car, then after the new year, taking it to the curb, or chopping it down, and placing it into green can, is getting kinda hard, so I am on the hunt for a better solution, without giving up the beauty of a big, fat Christmas tree. And I think I found it!
Use Storage Crates
Now, this is not a sponsored post for Big Lots, but I just wanted to let you know where I got what I needed for this project. I found these bins, that are kind of like crates, and I bought four of them. Just make sure that the bins you get, can hold the weight of your tree. That is VERY important. First, I cleared out my corner in my living room.
After, my space is cleared, and cleaned, I place the bins upside-down, and together, to make a big square stage. I then use zip ties, using 3 together, to create a large zip tie, and tie the crates together, so that they will stay attached, and not move around so much. See pic below.
Now that we have our platform, I just placed a large wooden board, and two large poster boards on top, to create a flat surface.
Then I covered the whole thing with an old white tablecloth, that I no longer use for my table, and I tucked it under the edges. This creates a blank slate for your tree.
I places a tree skirt on the platform, just to give you a visual on how the tree skirt will kind of look. Once you have your Christmas tree, on this platform, you can place any color tree skirt, and it will cover most of the tablecloth on the platform. When I place my tree on top, I always secure the tree to the base, to be sure the tree doesn’t tip over, so be sure to do that. I also secure the tree to the wall behind it, for extra measure.
Very important: Please do not leave children or pets around the tree unattended.
So now, I can get a 5 foot tree, and it will look like it is over 6 feet tall. And all around the base of the platform, is where I set up my presents, that look so beautiful. Below, you can see our purple flocked Christmas tree from last year, where it was placed on this platform, and the presents, are displayed around the tree, and you can’t even tell, that a platform is there.
And, with this awesome Christmas Tree Hack, I am able to get a light enough tree, and make it look big, tall, and heavy — when in reality, this tree, is very light, short, and easy to discard when the time is needed. No more hassles! And the best part….You can get a less expensive tree, and make it look more expensive! Save more footage, save more money, am I right?
DIY Christmas Tree Hack – Make Your Tree Taller!
Do you have a clever trick for your Christmas tree? Let me know in the comments below.
*Disclaimer – please note that this post may contains affiliate links, meaning that if you were to make a purchase through one of these links, I would receive a small commission. Please see my disclosure
Ecological instruction: How to plant trees in the city?
There are only a few days left until the end of winter, spring smells are already caught in the air, and the birds outside the window are calling spring with their trills. This is the time when you can plan a good deed - plant your family tree and give the city a useful gift. In this article, I give detailed recommendations for planting trees in an urban environment, but if you don’t have time to study them at all, then you can check out the infographic.
The first thing to do is to decide on the place where you want to organize the planting of future trees. Green areas in the city are divided into public areas (parks, boulevards, highways and streets from the roadway to the sidewalk), here all actions must be coordinated with the Zelenkhoz municipal enterprise or the City Parks municipal enterprise, in order to ensure that the future the tree was taken on balance and subsequently carried out appropriate care for it.
Territories of limited use - these are courtyards of multi-storey residential buildings, adjacent territories - are consistent with the HOA or MTU, and the territories of schools, hospitals and other institutions are under the control of the administration of these institutions and coordination is needed with them.
Why do I need to coordinate the landing? First of all, in order to decide who and how will take care of the future tree, and secondly, an agreed planting is a guarantee of the future life and development of the tree, and it lives long enough and it must be accordingly fixed on the territory so that in the future it will not be cut down due to disagreement or interference with city communications. If you want to plant a tree in the yard and decide to take care of it yourself, then no approvals are required.
After all the approvals, we proceed to the very planning of landing on the site. The next 5 steps are mandatory and consistent.
STEP 1: Determine the planting site
Before determining the planting site of the future tree, you need to know exactly what communications are underground. The best solution for this is to familiarize yourself with the topographic survey of the site. Usually, the organization that manages the given territory has it. The future tree should grow from the building by at least 5 meters, the distance to underground utilities (water supply, heating network, high-voltage cable) - 2 meters, from the underground gas pipeline and sewerage - 1.5 meters. Air communications are more difficult. They hang throughout the city and there are wires over almost all free areas. The distance from the wires should be more than 2 meters, and from the support (pole) by 4 meters. But this is not always possible, therefore, under air communications, it is proposed to plant low-growing trees that do not exceed 5 meters in height, their list will be presented below.
When organizing the planting of several trees or an alley, the distance between them should be 5-7 meters for tall trees, 3-5 meters for short trees. A tighter fit is unacceptable, because. when growing, the trees will interfere with the normal development of each other's crown.
Before choosing a site, determine how the tree will look in perspective, how it will cast a shadow, whether it will be shaded by a high-rise building, how group planting of trees will look in perspective, whether it will prevent light from entering classrooms and offices .
STEP 2: Preparing the planting hole
you will have no more than 20 minutes to plant the tree itself, so as not to dry the roots of the seedling. Therefore, everything should be ready: a pit, soil, soil, spacers and water.
The dimensions of the hole should be determined taking into account the characteristics of the root system of the seedling, but it is usually sufficient for planting the tree to be 1 meter in diameter and 80 cm deep. Taking into account that most of the city's territories are located on the rocky soils of the rivers, or there is construction debris under a thin layer of earth in the conditions of storey buildings, it is difficult to organize the dimensions of a large deep pit. But it is worth remembering that the main nutrition of the seedling is carried out by lateral roots, therefore, the wider the pit, the better the opportunity for the development of lateral roots, which, constantly branching, master the upper, nutrient-rich and well-aerated layers of the soil horizon at a depth of 40 cm. In these layers, the main network of nourishing tree roots develops and a huge number of soil bacteria, fungi and invertebrate organisms live, without the vital activity of which plant roots cannot develop. Therefore, the width of the landing pit should be made as large as possible.
When digging a hole, first the sod is cut through - the top layer of soil around the perimeter and the top fertile soil layer is removed along with the sod and folded on one side of the hole on a previously prepared awning or fabric. Then the lower horizon of the soil is dug, which differs from the upper one in humus content (color) and mechanical composition. In some cases, it is lighter (sandy), and most often heavy - loamy or is a continuous pebble and large stones. There will be much more soil from the underlying horizon, and it is piled up on the other side of the pit. The walls of the pit are made sheer, the bottom is loosened to a depth of 15–20 cm.
Pre-prepared pits should be filled with one third of the earth mixture immediately after excavation. The fertile layer of soil with sod folded on one side of the pit needs to be crushed with a shovel and laid on the bottom, and on the other side of the pit we have left less fertile soil from deeper soil horizons, which must be cleaned of stones and construction debris and subsequently mixed with humus . If the soil is clayey, you can add a little sand to it, but if the soil is too sandy, then mountain black soil is added to it. When cleaning the soil from stones and construction debris, you should immediately estimate whether it is enough for planting a seedling and, if necessary, purchase additional soil, which can be bought in bags on the market when buying seedlings or ordered from an ad. After all the pits are prepared, you can go to purchase seedlings
STEP 3: Purchasing a seedling
In the spring, so-called “green markets” are formed in the city markets, where a wide range of seedlings is presented. For urban landscaping, a large selection is presented at the market located along Mederova Street, west of the street. April 7 (former Almaty), at Osh, Alamedin, cattle markets, as well as seedlings can be purchased at private suburban nurseries, forestries and the botanical garden. Before you buy a seedling, you need to know exactly what kind of tree we want to buy, so that later you don’t get confused when you see the whole range. For the conditions of the urban environment, trees must have the following criteria:
- Capable of creating favorable conditions for an urban environment: able to develop a wide crown and have a maximum leaf index. Such plants evaporate a large amount of moisture, cool the air and create the maximum shade area. Due to the leaves (mainly rough and sticky), they are able to retain dust and purify the air from exhaust gases;
- Adapted to the urban environment: able to tolerate temporary drying out of the soil, too much moisture, resistant to dust, exhaust gases, scorching sun, poor soils.
- Durable and resistant to wind and snow loads: be relatively durable, providing long-term use of the urban landscape element. Thanks to their biological features and proper care, such trees are able to ensure the environmental safety of the city for many years.
Only seedlings grown in a microclimate similar to the city in urban and suburban nurseries meet these requirements. These include the following types of trees:
Tall, giving life-giving shade: Elm (pinnate-branched and Androsov), better known as Karagach, Poplar Bolle (silver), Linden (heart-shaped, broad-leaved and American), Maples (false sycamore, holly and field), Ash (green, common and American) Oriental plane tree (Chinara), Catalpa bignonevaya (common), Silver birch, White mulberry, Gledichia, Robinia, Crimean pine.
In damp places and in the lower part of the city, landing is possible: Various types of willow (white (Vetla), yellow-stemmed, Matsudan and Babylon) and birch.
Medium-sized, planted along roads, with growth limitation due to air communications: Sumakh, Hawthorn, Cercis (Purple), Bird Cherry, Skumpia, various varieties of lilac, Silver and narrow-leaved lohi (Jigida).
And if you want a blooming city in spring, plant decorative forms and varieties of fruit trees: almonds, hawthorn, apricots, small-fruited and decorative flowering apple trees, plums and cherries.
When choosing a seedling, you should pay attention to its shape and the condition of the roots. The seedling should be even, its skeletal branches should be evenly distributed along the trunk. The root must have a sufficient number of small roots and a sufficient clod of earth, the upper bud must be strong and intact.
Seedlings, no more than 2 meters high, take root and grow better. the ratio of the root system and shoot they have much more. Tall trees, more than 3 meters, grown in the open field, as a rule, get sick longer and grow only after 3-4 years.
After buying a seedling, be sure to wrap its roots with a damp cloth and put a plastic bag on top or wrap with a film and fix the roots well with a lump of tape, and only then transport them to the planting site. Do not forget to purchase enough humus and black soil so that there is enough soil when planting a seedling.
STEP 4: Properly planting and fixing the seedling
After bringing the seedlings, estimate on the spot whether everything is prepared, whether there is enough soil and water, prepare the necessary tools and supports to fix the seedling. Before you remove the seedlings from the bag and fabric, try on its root system to the prepared pit.
When preparing a seedling for planting, pay attention to the transition of the bark from the roots to the trunk - this is the root neck of the seedling. It is important to ensure that it is located on the horizon or slightly above the surface of the earth. After the soil shrinks, the root neck should be at ground level, for this, pre-prepared soil is added or removed to the bottom of the pit, and a tubercle is made on its surface to evenly position the roots at the desired level.
Next, the roots of the seedling are released, and it is installed in the center of the pit in such a way that its roots do not bend and do not rest against the walls of the pit, and evenly diverge in different directions. If the roots are too long, then cut them a little with secateurs.
After planting the seedling in the hole, approximately two-thirds of the total depth of the hole is filled with earth mixture, covering most of the plant's root system. Then a large amount of water is poured. Filling should be continued until the water level is set at two-thirds of the depth of the landing pit, after which the pit is finally covered with a dry earth mixture. All this time, the seedling must be maintained in an upright position, slightly supporting and pulling it up. So that during shrinkage, the root neck of the seedling does not turn out to be below the level of the soil surface, after which the pit is filled up 15–20 cm above this level, the soil is leveled, and a soil ring is formed around the seedling, which will retain water in the root zone during irrigation. Its diameter is made slightly smaller than the diameter of the pit 70-80 cm.
This method of planting practically guarantees the establishment of plants, since the slurry formed in the root zone envelops the roots, ensuring that the suction root hairs come into contact with the soil. If you pour out the water after planting the seedling, then the survival rate of the seedlings is reduced due to poor contact of the roots with the soil and the formation of air pockets in the area where the roots are located.
It is also useful to mulch the surface of the mound with last year's foliage from the front garden or straw in order to prevent the formation of a crust on the soil surface, causing a violation of its aeration, as well as slowing down the evaporation of moisture.
After planting around the seedling at a distance of 20-30 cm from the trunk, three vertical supports of pegs or reinforcement are installed, to which the seedling is fixed. It is necessary to fix the seedling with a patchwork tape so as not to damage its delicate bark, and the fixation should not be tight, but with a slight backlash, but sufficient so that the seedling does not fall down due to the wind.
STEP 5: First care and trimming
Congratulations! You have done a great job, but it is worth remembering that the future tree needs care, which must be provided in the first year of planting. These activities are aimed at restoring the normal vital functions of trees after their planting, as well as at accelerating adaptation to environmental conditions. At first, seedlings are exposed to many environmental factors. These include excess or lack of light, exposure to wind, high or low air temperature, compacted soil, reduced air humidity, and so on. In this regard, post-planting tree care should be, first of all, aimed at eliminating adverse effects and adapting the plant to new conditions.
In the case of spring planting, the plant needs regular watering. Restoration of the root system is carried out by introducing growth stimulants into the root zone of the tree, simultaneously with watering. A very effective stimulant is heteroauxin and rootvin. At least 15 waterings are required per season, depending on the weather. The hole should be completely filled with water. As soon as the water is absorbed, the hole is trimmed and mulch is applied so that the surface does not dry out ahead of time. It is very important to water during the growth of foliage and shoots, as well as the formation of active roots. It is especially important to do this in the autumn to protect plantings from winter desiccation. Soil moisture should be maintained at 60-70% (this is approximately the moisture content of cottage cheese). Excessive watering is also undesirable, since in this case the water carries nutrients too deep, displaces air from the soil, impairing the respiration of the seedling roots.
Post-plant tree care should also include loosening and weeding the soil around the seedlings. Loosening allows you to achieve optimal water and air permeability of the soil. The soil around the tree should be loosened to a depth of no more than 2-3 cm, so as not to damage the thin surface roots of the plant. The first loosening is carried out in the spring, with the drying of the soil after planting the seedling. In the future, loosening is carried out as needed, after watering or rain. For the winter, humus or fallen leaves are poured into the hole around the trunk with a layer of about 7 cm. This allows you to protect the roots of the seedling from frost and protects the plant from freezing.
The period of survival of seedlings and their recovery after transplantation is different for different types of trees. Large seedlings take root longer - up to 4-5 years, ordinary small seedlings - about 1-3 years. Measures for the care of trees after planting should be aimed at reducing the life of the plant.
The survival criterion is the appearance of many stable shoots of a tree, juicy green color of leaves, maturation of wood in autumn.
After the seedling starts growing, next spring or two years later, it is obligatory to make a formative pruning of the seedling . It is necessary to single out the main trunk-leader in it, which will subsequently form the main trunk and height of the tree and 5-7 side branches that form the main crown of the tree. All other branches (weak, growing towards the trunk, drying out, redundant on one side) should be removed with a pruner cut into a ring, so that the main forces of the tree are directed to the formation of the main skeletal branches. Here, perhaps, are all the recommendations for planting trees in an urban environment.
I sincerely wish good luck and strength to all those who decide to dedicate their time to planting trees in the city. Together, we can make our city greener, healthier and more livable. I believe that in the near future trees will delight us with their foliage and flowers, birds will sing again in our city and we will again see colorful butterflies in the city.
Photo Facebook page of Public Foundation "Initiative "Archa"
How to plant a tree - Lifehacker
Follow Lifehacker's advice, and the tree will definitely take root.
How to find the best planting site
Most trees will thrive in flat areas where moisture does not stagnate. If there are no such conditions, you must first level the places of future landings - add or remove a layer of soil and walk along the surface with a rammer. Drainage at the bottom of the planting pit will cope with waterlogging of the soil.
Place trees on the south and southwest sides to provide adequate lighting. It is also important to keep a distance between seedlings - as they grow, they should not obscure each other and interfere with development. Therefore, keep in mind what size they will reach in the future, and take this into account when marking out plantings so as not to get dense jungle instead of a beautiful garden.
For example, vigorous apple and pear trees can reach a height of 5-6 meters, so they should be placed 4-6 meters apart. The height of undersized ones, as a rule, does not exceed 2-3 meters, and they can be planted at a distance of 1.5-3 meters. Plums, cherries, cherries, apricots and peaches need a distance of 3-4 meters.
At the same time, vigorous trees should be planted at a distance of at least 5 meters from residential buildings and 4 meters from the neighbor's fence. The distance for medium-sized people is at least 2 meters, for short people - at least 1 meter.
Think in advance where and what kind of trees you want to plant, and only then go for seedlings.
How to choose seedlings
For young trees, it is better to go to trusted sellers or specialized nurseries, which guarantee good quality seedlings and their conformity to the variety.
It is better to choose the so-called zoned varieties: they are specially bred taking into account the climate in different regions. For example, trees suitable for cultivation in the south are unlikely to overwinter in the central zone.
The optimal age of the seedling is from one to three years. Of course, older plants look prettier, and it seems that they will bear fruit faster. But the older the tree, the larger its root system. This means that it will suffer more from digging and transplanting to a permanent place, and this will not have the best effect on survival.
Seedlings can be sold with a closed and open root system. In the first case, they will be planted in pots or containers with soil. The roots of such trees are protected and continue to develop, so after landing in a permanent place, the tree will take root faster. Another plus is that such trees can be planted during the entire growing season.
Seedlings with an open root system lack these advantages. When choosing them, it is necessary to ensure that the roots are protected from drying out: they are covered with wet sawdust or are in a container with a special clay mash. The buds of such trees should be alive, but dormant.
Whatever root system you choose, pay attention to the condition of the trunk and root collar - the places where the roots directly connect to the trunk. They should not have mechanical damage, dark spots, traces of fungal diseases and rot.Image: Garden Guide / YouTube
When to plant a tree
Closed-rooted trees can be planted from early spring to late autumn, from April to October. In the spring, you have to wait until the snow melts, and the temperature stays above 0 degrees. In summer, avoid too dry and hot weather. But in the fall, you need to have time before frost.
Bare-rooted trees should preferably be planted in a dormant state, in early spring or late autumn, when the temperature does not fall below 0 degrees. At this time, the kidneys are asleep.
When choosing a time, be guided by the climate in your area. In the south, it is preferable to plant trees in autumn: the heat here can come already in early spring, and therefore young seedlings can get sunburned before they have time to fully take root. In the central regions, you can choose both seasons due to the temperate climate. But in the north, spring tree planting will be the best option - this way you will exclude the death of a fragile seedling from severe winter frosts.
In addition, it is important to remember that for planting in late autumn, only winter-hardy varieties should be selected. Otherwise, the tree runs the risk of freezing before it begins to take root.
How to store seedlings before planting
Seedlings with a closed root system do not require special preparation. If you do not have time to plant them in the fall, in winter they can be stored in the basement or on a glazed balcony at a temperature of 0 to 4 degrees Celsius.
With seedlings with an open root system, things are a little more complicated. If you buy them in late spring or summer, when the buds are already budding, plant the trees as soon as possible, rather than trying to save until autumn: this way they are more likely to survive. If you buy them in the fall and plant only in the spring, place the roots in plastic bags with damp peat or sand and send them to winter storage. All in the same basement or on a glazed balcony.
How to prepare a planting hole
For spring planting, it is better (but not necessary) to prepare a hole in the fall. So the soil has time to settle, and the nutrients are evenly distributed. For autumn gardening, you can prepare a hole at any time, starting in spring, but not less than a month before the planned planting of a tree in the ground.
Dig a hole of the right sizeImage: Igor Bilevich / YouTube
The diameter of the planting hole should be twice the diameter of the seedling's root system, and the depth should be three times the length of the roots. When digging, you need to lay off the upper, fertile, layer of soil on one side, and the lower one on the other.
Make a drainage layerShot: Igor Bilevich / YouTube
This is necessary if groundwater is high on the site - in such cases it is often flooded in early spring. Expanded clay, broken brick or crushed stone is suitable for drainage. At the bottom of the pit, you need to put at least 10 cm of material. This will protect the roots of the seedling from rotting.
Fill in fertile soilShot: Igor Bilevich / YouTube
Mix the excavated topsoil in equal proportions with peat, compost or humus. If the soil in the area is clayey, you can add another part of the sand. For additional nutrition, add 50 g of wood ash and 15–20 g of nitroammophoska. Pour all the components together with the soil to the bottom of the pit, mix well again and pour plenty of water.
Wait for the ground to settle
This will take at least 14 days, or even better, wait a month. By this time, the soil will have time to settle down enough, and the planted tree will subsequently not go deep into the ground after rains and watering.
How to plant a tree
After the soil in the hole has settled, slightly loosen the soil at the bottom of the hole and start planting the seedling.
Place the tree in the holeImage: Igor Bilevich / YouTube
The root collar should be flush with the ground. If it is lower, there is a risk of rotting and even death of the tree.
In order not to make a mistake, you can put a long board or stick on top of the pit. If the neck is lower, add fertile soil to the bottom of the pit, if higher, dig out unnecessary soil.
Gently straighten the roots of the tree so that they point to the sides, not up. Sprinkle them with earth, slightly compacting the soil around the trunk.
Install a stakeImage: Hitsad TV / YouTube
Carefully drive a 1.5-2 m stake into the soil so that it is stable enough, and tie the trunk to it. This will give the tree the support it needs until it gets stronger.
Water the seedlingImage: Hitsad TV / YouTube
Make a watering hole 5 cm deep, 20-30 cm in diameter, around the trunk by removing the soil from the center to the edges with a hoe or small spatula. Gently pour plain water into the hole in small portions, allowing it to soak. For a young tree, two buckets of 10 liters will be enough.
Mulch the trunk circleShot: Alexander Kvasha / YouTube
This technique will prevent the soil from drying out and will not allow weeds to germinate. Peat, compost, dry leaves, wood chips or rotted sawdust are suitable as mulch. They need to be poured in a layer of 3-5 cm around the trunk along the diameter of the landing pit.