How to melt tree resin
How to Forage & Use Pine Resin
Learn how to forage and harvest pine resin, then use it to make a first aid salve, a decongestant balm, and a pine resin sore muscle rub!
Learn how to harvest resin from pine trees and use it to make salves and more!Resin is a substance that oozes or exudes from pine trees, and some other plants, to help heal wounds or seal off insect damage. Depending on what time of year you forage, and the age of the resin, it may be soft and sticky, or it may be in hard chunks.
Pine resin has benefits for humans too! It’s antimicrobial and increases circulation, making it useful in products such as:
- first aid salves for minor scrapes and nicks
- drawing salves for splinters and boils
- rubs for aches & pains
- soap for various skin conditions
- balms for chapped or dry skin
It has a fresh piney scent that smells pleasant to most people, dependent upon the type of tree you harvest it from. Some species of trees produce more resin than others.
Types of Pine to Harvest Resin From
You can forage resin from all types of pines. Around our area, we mainly have eastern white pine (Pinus strobis), Virginia pine (Pinus virginiana), and loblolly pine (Pinus taeda), so that’s what we use. Other pines to collect resin from include pinyon (Pinus edulis) and Ponderosa (Pinus ponderosa). The resin from spruce or some firs is also useful.
One evergreen you don’t want to accidentally confuse with pine is Yew (Taxus spp). Please read Green Deane’s article on Yew, over at Eat the Weeds to learn more about its toxicity.
The Arbor Day Foundation has an awesome interactive “What Tree Is This?” feature on their site. It should help you get started recognizing the types of pine that grow around you.
You can also check your local or state resources – they have tons of helpful information available! We found the Virginia Department of Forestry’s Common Native Trees of Virginia Guide (which you can freely download on their site) really helpful when starting to learn our trees.
How to Sustainably Harvest Pine Resin
We strictly gather from trees that have fallen during storms – winter is a perfect time, since yearly snow and ice storms always bring down a few pine trees. Sometimes the tree will have a supply of resin from previous wounds, other times we cut the tree into smaller sections for moving it out of our yard, or from the chicken/goat area, and resin will ooze from those branch cuttings.
Harvesting resin from a storm-fallen white pine (Pinus strobis), which fell and crushed one of our plum trees. Resin oozed out where the branches were cut with a chain saw to make cleaning it up easier. (Don’t harvest from cuts like this, if a tree is still standing/living.)If you must gather from living trees do so carefully. Remember that resin is like a bandage over a tree wound.
Since it’s an important part of tree healing, you don’t want to just rip or dig it off of a living tree. It’s best to harvest the resin when chunks of it have fallen to the ground, or if you find some dripping further down the trunk, past the wounded area.
An old butter knife is perfect for popping off cold chunks, or scraping the softer bits from a fallen tree. Since the resin is sticky, collect it in a paper cup, piece of parchment paper, or a jar dedicated to resin collecting.
resin oozing from the top section of a young pine tree that was nicked offWhen to Harvest
You can harvest pine resin year ’round. The colder weather of winter is an especially good time to forage for storm-fallen trees and branches. The resin is also hardened by cold temperatures, making it easier to collect.
Using Pine Resin in Salves, Soaps & More!
When it comes to pine resin, a pretty common problem occurs when someone tries to directly melt resin, then add it to a salve or soap.
This is messy and can cause recipe complications. It works much better to infuse the resin into oil, strain out any tree bark and remaining debris, and then incorporate the resin infused oil into your recipe.
We’ll tell you exactly how to do that below!
First though, you’ll want to crush or break any bigger pine resin chunks into smaller pieces or powder if possible. This gives more surface area for the resin to more fully dissolve into the oil.
Crush frozen resin chunks into smaller pieces and powder, using freezer paper and a hammer.How to Crush Pine Resin
You’ll need:
- large chunks of resin
- parchment paper or freezer paper
- a freezer
- a hammer
Place the chunks of resin on a sheet of parchment or freezer paper, and freeze them for several hours, until hardened. Fold the freezer/parchment paper around the pieces, then use a hammer to carefully break them up into smaller pieces or powder. (We always do this task outside on our porch, or sidewalk.
)
Be aware that if you use a coffee grinder to grind up resins, or sticky-tending things like propolis, it will leave behind a sticky residue that’s difficult to clean out.
Using Pine Resin
Now that you’ve collected pine resin, it’s time to put it to use!
In this section, you’ll learn to make pine resin oil and three kinds of pine resin salve, plus how to incorporate the infused oil into other kinds of products, such as soap, too.
Two jars of freshly infused oil: The one on the left is made with ponderosa pine resin and a ratio of 1 part resin to 3 parts oil. The jar on the right is made with 1 part Virginia pine resin and 8 parts of oil. Both have a wonderful woodsy resinous scent!Infused Oil
Pine resin infused oil can be used to make natural products such as salve, body butter, lotion, and soap!
To make the oil, you’ll need:
- pine resin that has been crushed or powdered (see above for how)
- oil of your choice (see more on that below)
- a glass canning or mason jar, to use for infusing
- small saucepan with several inches of water, to create a double boiler effect
- a stainless steel or heatproof strainer
- a little extra oil to use when cleaning up (coconut oil works really well for this)
Resin to Oil Ratio:
How much resin and oil you use, will depend on how much resin you’ve collected, and how strong you want your oil to be.
- For most skincare applications, you can use roughly 3 to 4 times as much oil as crushed resin. So if you collect 1/4 cup of resin, then use about 3/4 cup to 1 cup of oil.
- If you don’t have a lot of resin to work with, you can use a higher ratio instead – such as 1 part resin to 8 parts oil. An example would be 1 tablespoon resin to 1/2 cup of oil. (There are 8 tablespoons in 1/2 cup of oil.)
- If using in soap, use 2 to 3 tablespoons resin for a pint jar of oil. (Which equates to about 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 cups of oil.)
Types of Oil to Use:
Olive oil is a classic choice for salves and balms, and is usually used for soapmaking infusions. Sunflower oil is another good choice, especially for those prone to eczema or sensitive skin. However, both olive and sunflower are slower to absorb into your skin and may feel a bit greasy because of that trait.
To create a slightly faster absorbing product, try using rice bran oil, apricot kernel oil, safflower oil, or jojoba oil for your infusion instead.
Instructions to make the oil:
- Place the pine resin is a canning jar, or other heatproof container.
- Add the oil and stir a few times.
- Cover the jar loosely with a flat metal canning lid.
- Set the jar down into a saucepan filled with several inches of water.
- You want the water to come up the sides of the jar, but not so much that the jar floats.
- Place the pan over a medium-low burner and heat for 2 to 4 hours.
- Stir every so often, scraping along the bottom of the jar, to help keep the pine resin from settling in a single clump.
- Keep a close eye during infusing time and don’t let the water in the pan dry out.
- After the resin has had time to infuse into the oil, remove from heat and strain the oil through a fine mesh sieve into a jar, while it’s still hot.
- After straining, immediately wipe out the remaining debris/resin with an old rag or paper towel, then clean the strainer with hot water and dish soap, so the residue from the remaining resin doesn’t stick to it.
- The infused oil should have a shelf life of at least 12 months.
- You’ll eventually notice some sediment at the bottom of the infusing jar – that’s fine and normal. Just carefully pour out your oil when using for recipes, leaving the sediment behind in the jar.
Tip: If your original infusing jar still has a bunch of resin stuck to the bottom and you can’t clean it out, add more plain oil, cap the jar, and tuck it away in a warm place – like the top of your fridge, or a warm room – to infuse the slower way for a month or two.
Tin of pine salve on the resin-covered tree it’s made from.Pine Resin Salve (3 recipes)
While basic pine salve is wonderful on its own, it can also be tweaked for specific purposes – such as making a balm for painful joints/arthritis, or a chest rub for coughs – simply by switching up the essential oils used.
You could also mix and match with herbal infused oils, such as using mullein or bee balm infused oil as a sub for part of the resin infused oil in the decongestant balm, or by adding cayenne and/or ginger to your infusion if making a sore muscle rub.
1. Basic Pine Resin Salve
This basic salve recipe is useful for general first aid purposes, such as minor scrapes and scratches, or on chapped, dry skin spots. It’s can also be helpful as a drawing salve, for when you have a stuck splinter, or a painful boil. (Apply and cover with a band-aid overnight.)
Ingredients for the basic salve:
- 1.55 oz (44 g) pine resin infused oil
- 0.25 oz (7 g) grated beeswax or pastilles
2. Decongestant Resin Balm
The phlegm moving properties of pine are enhanced with eucalyptus, peppermint, and white camphor essential oils, to help break up congestion and open up your sinuses. You may alternatively choose to use part resin infused oil and part bee balm or mullein oil. (Example: 1 oz resin oil + 0.6 oz bee balm oil.) If you don’t have white camphor essential oil, try using rosemary EO in its place. This balm is not intended for young children.
Ingredients for the decongestant balm:
- 1.
55 oz (44 g) pine resin infused oil - 0.25 oz (7 g) grated beeswax or pastilles
- 16 drops eucalyptus essential oil
- 5 drops peppermint essential oil
- 2 drops white camphor essential oil
3. Pine Resin Sore Muscle Rub
Pine resin helps increase circulation, relieving aches, pains, and tired muscles. Here it’s combined with cypress and clove essential oil, to help boost the warming pain relief effect. If you don’t have cypress EO, try using cedarwood Himalayan or juniper berry essential oil instead. This rub is helpful for achy joints and other muscle and joint issues that feel better when you apply heat (such as heating pad, hot water bottle, or warm bath) to them.
Ingredients for the sore muscle rub:
- 1.55 oz (44 g) pine resin infused oil
- 0.25 oz (7 g) grated beeswax or pastilles
- 24 drops cypress essential oil (or juniper berry, or cedarwood Himalayan)
- 1 drop clove essential oil
Directions to make the salve, balm, and rub:
- Weigh the infused oil into a heatproof container, such as a half-pint canning jar.
- Weigh the beeswax and add it to the jar.
- Place the jar down into a small saucepan filled with several inches of water, forming a makeshift double boiler.
- Place the pan over medium to medium-low heat.
- Heat until the wax melts, then remove the pan from the burner.
- Add the desired drops of essential oils to the melted beeswax and oil mixture.
- Pour into a two ounce tin or glass jar.
- Label and store your salve/balm/rub out of direct heat and light.
- Shelf life of salves, balms, and rubs is usually at least one year, or as long as the product smells good.
Pine Resin Soap
You can also use your infused oil to make soap! If you’re making cold process soap, it’s suggested to have a more diluted oil (such as a ratio of 2 to 3 tbsp crushed resin per pint jar of oil.) Resin will speed up the soapmaking process and a high amount can cause your soap to seize up.
We have a whole tutorial with two recipe variations (one with tallow or lard, or one with vegan butters) over at our sister site, The Nerdy Farm Wife:
How to Make Pine Resin Soap {+2 recipes}
You can collect your own pine resin and use it to create salves, soap, balms, rubs, and more!More Uses for Pine Resin Infused Oil
Try using your infused oil to make body butter, creams, or other products for your skin!
Simply replace plain oil in a skin care recipe, with part or all infused oil in its place. For example – if your favorite body butter recipe calls for 2 ounces of oil, you may wish to use 1 ounce plain oil + 1 ounce pine resin infused oil, to create your own pine resin body butter.
Pine resin can also be used to make homemade beeswax wraps (a tutorial that will eventually make its way to this site), and can be chewed as a natural chewing gum. It’s an acquired taste… and some pines, such as ponderosa, should be avoided internally during pregnancy, but it’s fun to try old-fashioned resin gum at least once in your life!
Our articles are for information and idea-sharing only.
While we aim for 100% accuracy, it is solely up to the reader to provide proper identification. Be sure to seek out local foraging classes and plant walks, and invest in mushroom and foraging guides suitable for the area you live in, since some wild foods are poisonous, or may have adverse effect.
a half pint canning jar, for infusing
a flat metal canning lid, to cover the infusing jar
small saucepan with several inches of water, to create a double boiler effect
a stainless steel or heatproof strainer
a half pint canning jar, for making the salve
a 2 ounce tin or jar, to store your salve
For the Infused Oil
- 1+ TBSP crushed pine resin
- 1/4+ cup oil of your choice
For the Basic Salve
- 1.55 oz pine resin infused oil
- 0.25 oz grated beeswax or pastilles
For the Decongestant Balm
- 1.
55 oz pine resin infused oil (can use half of this as mullein or bee balm infused oil instead) - 0.25 oz grated beeswax or pastilles
- Essential Oil: 16 drops eucalyptus, 5 drops peppermint, 2 drops white camphor (or rosemary)
For the Sore Muscle Rub
- 1.55 oz pine resin infused oil (can add a pinch of ground cayenne and/or ginger to the infusion, if you'd like a boosted effect)
- 0.25 oz grated beeswax or pastilles
- Essential Oil: 24 drops cypress (or juniper berry, or cedarwood Himalayan), 1 drop clove
To Make the Infused Oil
Place the pine resin is a canning jar, or other heatproof container.
Add the oil and stir a few times.
Cover the jar loosely with a flat metal canning lid.
Set the jar down into a saucepan filled with several inches of water.
You want the water to come up the sides of the jar, but not so much that the jar floats.
Place the pan over a medium-low burner and heat for 2 to 4 hours.
Stir every so often, scraping along the bottom of the jar, to help keep the pine resin from settling in a single clump.
Keep a close eye during infusing time and don’t let the water in the pan dry out.
After the resin has had time to infuse into the oil, remove from heat and strain the oil through a fine mesh sieve into a jar, while it’s still hot.
To Make the Basic Salve, Decongestant Balm, and Sore Muscle Rub
Weigh the infused oil into a heatproof container, such as a half-pint canning jar.
Weigh the beeswax and add it to the jar.
Place the jar down into a small saucepan filled with several inches of water, forming a makeshift double boiler.
Place the pan over medium to medium-low heat.
Heat until the wax melts, then remove the pan from the burner.
Add the desired drops of essential oils to the melted beeswax and oil mixture.
Pour into a two ounce tin or glass jar.
Resin to Oil Ratio for the Infused Oil: How much resin and oil you use, will depend on how much resin you’ve collected, and how strong you want your oil to be. For most skincare applications, you can use roughly 3 to 4 times as much oil as crushed resin. That would equate to 1 tablespoon resin for about 1/4 cup of oil. (If you don’t have enough resin, use a higher ratio, such as 1/2 tablespoon resin for 1/4 cup of oil.)
Our articles are for information and idea-sharing only. While we aim for 100% accuracy, it is solely up to the reader to provide proper identification. Be sure to seek out local foraging classes and plant walks, and invest in mushroom and foraging guides suitable for the area you live in, since some wild foods are poisonous, or may have adverse effect.
Post Tags: #pine
Melting Pine Resin - help
storm77
- #1
Hi guys,
New here I would like if possible to ask some advice.
I need to melt some pine resin and mix it with beeswax. Would anyone know the melting point temperature for Pine Resin and would it be safe to melt in a pan? Or, does it require the double pan method like beeswax? Furthermore, beeswax melts at 60c approximately, so assuming pine resin melts at a higher temperature, what would be the best way of mixing the two without causing a fire!? Hope someone can help as there is not much out there online about melting pine resin or not from what i could see.
Thanks
yoger
Member
- #2
Hello!
I used to melt pine resin on hot stones by the fire so I assume that it has quite high.
From what I found on the net it can be like 180-360 celcius. It can be hard to mix them with that much difference in temperature. Whats the purpouse of mixing them? Maybe we can find some other solution.
Harvestman
Bushcrafter through and through
- #3
I've melted pine resin in a pan without trouble. Not tried mixing it with anything though.
One tip: use an old pan. Getting the resin off the inside afterwards is one of the seven tasks of Hercules.
storm77
- #4
hi yoger, thanks for the advice.
its actually for making snowboard wax but the recipe ive found requires pine rosin and for it to be mixed with beeswax
British Red
Full Member
- #5
I'll assume you are planning on making either chewing gum or cutlers resin (glue)?
Melt and if necessary clarify the resin first keep it liquid but not boiling and gradually add the beeswax. Beeswax should not reach the flashover temperature this way. You cannot use a double boiler as the melting temperature of resin is more than the boiling point of water.
Beeswax will catch fire if heated too high so use sensible fire precautions
dRe
storm77
- #6
hi guys, thanks for all the responses. Not sure what happened to my last post but basically i was saying i was making snowboard wax and the recipe demanded both beeswax and pine resin/rosin/pitch/sap. If i heated both up in seperate pots and then shut the heat off at melting points and then combined them immediately, would that then also be a recipe for a fire? Basically fire scares the hell out of me so its whats putting me off trying so i want to make double sure i do it correctly the first time!
yoger
Member
- #7
To quickly extinguish fire if it occurs use just metal cover for the pot.
If the fire starts just put the cover on so it'll run out of oxygen and stop burning almost immidiately.
British Red
Full Member
- #8
storm77 said:
hi guys, thanks for all the responses. Not sure what happened to my last post but basically i was saying i was making snowboard wax and the recipe demanded both beeswax and pine resin/rosin/pitch/sap. If i heated both up in seperate pots and then shut the heat off at melting points and then combined them immediately, would that then also be a recipe for a fire? Basically fire scares the hell out of me so its whats putting me off trying so i want to make double sure i do it correctly the first time!
Click to expand.
..
Ther recipe for a fire is getting a fat too hot. You are heating a fat by doing this - you can't get away from the fact. Just be aware and heat progressively and slowly. Its safe enough if you are careful. Putting water in hot far is dodgy too - but its how we fry chips!
You can't have much fear if you are a snowboarder - I don't have the front for those outfits!
How to melt resin at home - Stroy Obzor
Gum, how to cook at home?
You bought pine oleoresin 100% — this is pure cedar oleoresin, without additives, and you want to cook oleoresin in oil (sunflower, linseed, cedar - any oil of vegetable origin) at the right concentration for you.
General approach to the proportion of pine oleoresin and oil. Let's take initially that you want to cook 100 ml of resin in oil of a certain percentage. If you want to cook Gum 5%, then we need 5 grams of Gum and 95 grams of oil, if you want to cook Gum 20%, then you need 20 grams of Gum and 80 grams of oil, and so on, the analogy is clear.
If you want to prepare 1 liter (1000 ml) of resin 5%, then multiply all the data by 10, i.e. you need 5 * 10 = 50 grams of resin, you will need 95 * 10 = 950 grams of oil. There will be an error, because the density of the oil and resin is different, but at home, the described method for preparing cedar resin in oil is the simplest, most affordable, accurate and does not require special devices.
More about the water bath. A water bath is, in a simplified way, a large saucepan in which a small saucepan is inserted (see photo), and (!), which is very important and is the key point of the whole point of the water bath, the bottom of the small saucepan does not touch the bottom of the large saucepan, in fact, a small pot hangs on its handles inside a large pot, and the space between the pots is filled with warm (heated) water. The essence of the water bath is not to transfer the heat of the stove of 200-300 degrees Celsius into a small pot, but to transfer this heat to the water that fills the space between the large and small pots.
This is necessary to avoid heating the oil and resin to more than 40 degrees Celsius, if you heat it more, then all the useful will disappear, and you will have a useless liquid from the resin and oil. Heat the water in a large saucepan to no more than 40 degrees, so as not to overheat the oil, and gradually, in a small saucepan, the oil will begin to heat up. In expensive equipment for the production of Cedar Gum in oil, automation is used, it controls the temperature of the heating element, the temperature of the water and the temperature of the oil, taking into account the hysteresis of all the listed media. Industrial equipment is not a pot in a pot, it's a boiler in a water jacket.
Learn more about the cooking process. Place a large pot on the stove, insert a small pot so that it does not touch the bottom of the large pot, pour in water, start heating the water. Water should not be heated to more than 40 degrees Celsius, pour oil into a small saucepan, stir occasionally.
When the oil temperature has become 30-35 degrees Celsius, add the right amount of pine oleoresin and stir constantly and control the temperature of the water and oil. For example, Gum in oil 5% will be ready in 10-20 minutes, Gum in oil 50% will be ready in 1-2 hours. The more resin, and therefore the less oil, the longer the cooking process takes. How to know that everything is ready - a mixture of oil and resin has become a homogeneous substance.
Or you can use ready-made solutions of Cedar Gum in linseed oil, prepared on good equipment, see HERE
When restoring a roof or plinth insulation, the question often arises: how to dilute the bitumen? Roofing on new buildings is rarely poured on them, since now there are many more attractive options for insulating and covering it. But over the decades of their existence, such a layer of roofing material has accumulated on old houses that, apart from bitumen, there are practically no restoration options left (after all, sometimes it is not even possible to peel off multiple layers).
The dismantling of ruberoid "pies" is so time-consuming that people try to push it as far into the future as possible, especially if the building is not residential - a garage, a shed, a summer kitchen, an extension. And for coating waterproofing of the foundation, bitumen still remains one of the most popular materials - cheap, fairly reliable, available for independent use, even if the work is associated with hard physical labor and some danger in carrying out. True, if the goal is to get the most reliable foundation waterproofing possible, it is better to glue a waterproofing barrier or the same roofing material over the bitumen. Alone, the bituminous coating cracks quite quickly and begins to let moisture through.
How to dilute bitumen in the conditions of private construction or repair? As you can see, this issue is still relevant in the construction of foundation protection, and in the repair of old roofs. Therefore, it is worth taking a closer look here, which we tried to do in this article.
Gone are the days when bitumen existed in only one, hard variety. Now there is a fairly large variety of waterproofing materials of this type:
- hard bitumen;
- thinned bitumen;
- bituminous rubber mastics;
- bitumen-polymer mastics.
All hard variations require melting. It is impossible to dissolve bricks in any solvent. To some extent, bitumen will pass into it, however, it will be quite insignificant. Often such a solution is used as a primer - a primer for bituminous waterproofing.
Make primer as follows:
- Bitumen breaks into small pieces. It is advisable to carry out this operation in the shade - when heated in the sun, it becomes sluggish and reluctantly splits.
- Fragments are immersed in diesel fuel or waste oil. By volume - so that the solvent covers the pieces completely, but does not form a large layer above it.
- When the liquid turns bituminous, it is ready to be used as a primer.
If we consider hard bitumen as a waterproofing agent, then it must be melted for use. And this step cannot be avoided. Moreover, in its pure form, bitumen for application (and further existence with functioning) is not very suitable.
First, it sets too quickly.
Secondly, it doesn't fill pores too tightly - too viscous and dense.
Thirdly, very soon the layer starts to crack. Therefore, when working with bitumen, the following algorithm is usually observed:
- Bitumen, broken into pieces, melts in a metal barrel over low heat. Moreover, the fire should be as slow as possible: during rapid burning in some places, the material already begins to coke from overheating, while in others it still remains solid.
- After melting, it is left on fire until the foam stops appearing, that is, the dehydration stops.
- A filler is poured into the container, for which loose asbestos is the best choice, but it is quite difficult to find it.
So cement, chalk, gypsum (including alabaster), talc, ground clay, and so on are usually taken. Pursued goal: prevention of the formation of pores by the coating. - When the filler is kneaded, thinner is added - it will prevent the bitumen from setting too quickly.
The approximate ratio of components is as follows: half of the volume is bitumen, 30% is diesel fuel, the rest is fillers.
It remains to add a couple of clarifications . First, do not forget that bitumen is a combustible material and can flare up if overheated or heated too intensely. It is useless to extinguish it with water; you need to keep a tin cover on hand to stop the access of oxygen. You need to be especially careful after adding diesel fuel: in its pure form, bitumen ignites at 230 degrees, with a solvent, the flash point is significantly reduced.
Second: many people suggest using waste, gasoline or kerosene as a solvent.
If it is quite possible to agree with the first option, then the last 2 are no good: the substances are very volatile and combustible.
Most of it will evaporate before it fulfills the task of a solvent, the rest will increase flammability at times.
It does not need to be heated, it is already in a suitable consistency for application. However, it can thicken over time. In this case, to dilute it, use:
- low octane gasoline. On the one hand, a cheaper and more affordable solvent, but the fire hazard is high, as is volatility. The presence of open sources of fire (in particular, smoking) is unacceptable, and there is a risk of inhaling vapors to the point of poisoning;
white spirit is more expensive, but much safer. - Thinner should be added little by little, constantly stirring it. Remember that it is lighter than bitumen and will collect on the surface. If accidentally poured, you can wait for the bundle and just drain the excess
Pine resin has been used since ancient times. Medicines, varnishes, all kinds of impregnations, adhesives, fluxes for soldering are made from it.
In general, a lot of things.
Today I will tell you how to get resin, clean it and make glue from it.
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First you need to get the resin. To do this, we go to the nearest pine forest and look for trees in resin smudges. These trees are usually injured, with large cracks in the bark, and resin accumulates in them.
It is soft and easy to pick off. True, very often with pieces of bark, dirt, cobwebs and other debris.
In about an hour, I slowly collected such a pile of resin
As I said, it is dirty, so we will clean it. To do this, wrap the resin in gauze and throw it into boiling water. Over time, resin will stand out on the surface of the water
It must be collected with a spoon and poured into a prepared container with cold water to solidify. The frozen resin is rolled into sausages or any convenient shape (for example, a ball).
All. Sufficiently pure resin is ready.
For example, it can be chewed (very good taste) or used for other purposes.
Can make resin glue. To do this, melt four parts of resin
And add two parts of finely ground charcoal.
Mix everything thoroughly.
Adhesive is ready to use.
For application to the surfaces to be bonded, it must be heated until it softens. Such a glue ball can be carried with you or made on site. Fortunately, there are no problems with the ingredients.
Thank you for your attention!
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what to remove at home You can get dirty in it in a forest or city park, on an asphalt road, or while repairing electrical wiring using rosin. Due to the complex structure, resin stains are difficult to remove. But do not be upset, there are effective methods of dealing with them. Let's figure out how to remove resin from clothes at home. 9Ol000 manipulations. First, scrape off the main layer of the substance with a knife (blunt side) or a spoon. Be careful not to stretch the fabric or rub resin contamination into the fibres.
After pre-cleaning, the stained item should be wrapped in polyethylene and placed in the freezer for 60-90 minutes. The resin will harden and become brittle. If crushed, it will crumble into small pieces. Residues can be removed with a brush. What about large items that cannot be put in the freezer? Wipe the resin stain with an ice cube several times to harden it.
In most cases, scraping off the resin and placing it in the freezer will still leave a mark on the fabric. Let's figure out how to remove tar stains from clothes using improvised means. But first, here are some general tips:
- Use a dry brush to remove dirt and dust from the fabric to prevent streaks and new stains;
- if the product has a lining, then it must be carefully ripped open, and only the layer contaminated with resin should be treated;
- the material where the trace of the resin is located should be placed on a hard surface, the best option is a plank wrapped in an old cotton napkin;
- Wet a clean cloth around the resin and sprinkle with starch (talcum powder) to prevent the stain from “spreading” when cleaning.
Important: Exposure to cold is unacceptable if the item is made of thin, delicate fabric. Creases during further mechanical cleaning can lead to damage to the fibers.
Heat treatment
When figuring out how to remove pine resin from clothes, you should pay attention to the simplest method - heat treatment with an iron or a hair dryer.
Procedure:
- Place a clean rag or porous paper under and over the tar stain.
- Iron over with a hot iron.
- Change the rags that will absorb the melted resin as they get dirty.
- Soak the product in warm water, rub the remaining stain with laundry soap, wash after 15-20 minutes.
If the resin is on thick fabrics or leather, it is best to blow it with hot air using a hair dryer. Melted "tree sap" should be removed with a napkin.
Heat treatment can remove small fresh resin stains. After old and large-scale stains, in most cases a trace remains.
Let's find out how to remove resin from clothes if the iron or hair dryer did not help to completely clean the item.
Read another article about how to remove paint.
Thinners, gasoline, alcohol
When looking for an answer on how to remove pine resin from clothes, it makes sense to use one of the preparations - alcohol, turpentine, refined gasoline (sold in hardware stores), nail polish remover, acetone, mineral spirits .
Work steps:
- Soak a cotton swab in one of the substances listed.
- Wipe off the tar stain.
- Wait 15-20 minutes.
- Rinse item.
- Wash with powder, first by hand and then in the machine.
- Air dry.
For delicate fabrics, it is better to use a more gentle method:
- Combine laundry (baby) soap with refined gasoline (kerosene) in equal proportions.
- Apply the mixture to the stain.
- Wash and rinse thoroughly after 1 hour.
The listed substances are characterized by a pungent odor, as well as an aggressive effect on human skin and mucous membranes.
Processing should be carried out with gloves and a mask in a room that is well ventilated.
Starch paste
Consider how to remove old tree sap from clothes, in which case starch paste will help. It consists of potato starch (1 small spoon), ammonia (4 drops), turpentine (4 drops). The mixture should be smeared on the resin stain, and after drying, rub it with a brush. If a trace remains, the procedure must be repeated. At the end, the thing needs to be washed.
Another version of the paste is white clay (1 small spoon), potato starch (1 small spoon), ammonia (1 drop) and turpentine. Dry components are diluted with turpentine to a state of slurry, then ammonia is dripped. The mixture is used in a similar way.
To increase the efficiency of cleaning, it is recommended to pre-lubricate the old pine resin with fat - vegetable or butter, vaseline. After it softens, it should be scraped off with a metal object, and then the stain should be treated with starch paste.
See also: How to remove pellets from clothes.
Other methods
When solving the problem of how to remove tar from clothing, one of the following methods should be used:
- Oil + dish detergent. Rub the stain with sunflower oil to soften the substance, and after 15-20 minutes, apply dishwashing liquid to it to degrease it. Wash after 30 minutes. Suitable for wool and fur products.
- Soda (Cola, Fanta, Sprite). Pour a drink on the contaminated area. Wash after 15 minutes. For light fabrics, you should use colorless soda.
- Milk. Soak the stained area in milk. Wash in cold water after an hour.
- Stain remover. To get rid of the tar mark, you can use an industrial stain remover, selected depending on the type of fabric. The agent is poured onto the stain for 15-30 minutes, after which it must be washed and sent to the machine, in the compartment of which the powder is poured and the same stain remover is added.
- Oil + alcohol. Apply butter or vegetable oil to the stain with gauze. Wipe off the resin. Remove residue with alcohol. The method is suitable for leather items.
Helpful hints
Having looked at how to clean tar stains from clothes, it is worth noting that the method should be selected depending on the type of material.
General recommendations:
- for delicate items, use vegetable oil and dish detergent;
- from fur and suede clothing, the resin is best removed with alcohol;
- woolen fabric is “not afraid” of turpentine, but if it is light, it is better to use soap and alcohol;
- velvet, velor, acetate, silk can be treated with ether and alcohol or potato starch paste;
- bleaches and alkalis may only be used on white items;
- acetate silk must not be wetted with acetone and nail polish remover;
- some types of paints are destroyed by alcohol and acids;
- Do not use gasoline on synthetics.
