How to plant a pear tree video

Planting Pear Trees - Stark Bro's

Successfully establishing a young fruit tree in your yard starts with your planting site and method. Once a fruit tree is established, it needs little assistance to grow and bear fruit; but you’ll want to make sure you give your trees the right foundation.

NOTE: This is part 4 in a series of 11 articles. For a complete background on how to grow pear trees, we recommend starting from the beginning.

How To Dig a Perfect Planting Hole

How To Plant A Bare Root Fruit Tree

How To Plant A Stark® EZ Start® Potted Tree

Fruit trees require fertile soil for good growth, so before you plant, check your soil pH. Contact your local County Extension Office for information about soil testing in your area, or purchase one of our digital meters for quick and accurate results. If the soil pH where you plant your tree is 6.0-7.0, you’re in good shape. Take a look at the established trees and plants around the site. If they look healthy and are growing well, just follow the recommended fertilization program for your fruit trees. Steer clear of soils that are extremely heavy or poorly drained.

Planting Steps

  • Before planting: soak tree roots in a tub or large trash can of water for one to two hours to keep its roots from drying while you dig. Do not soak more than six hours. DO NOT expose roots to freezing temperatures while planting.
  • Dig the hole deep and wide enough so the root system has plenty of room. (Keep the topsoil in a separate pile so you can put it in the bottom of the hole, where it’ll do the most good.)
  • Roots grow better in soil that’s been loosened, so mix in our Coco-Fiber Potting Medium into your pile of topsoil. You can also use dehydrated cow mature, garden compost or peat moss (up to 1/3 concentration).
  • Fill the hole, putting the topsoil back in first. You can avoid creating air pockets by working the soil carefully around the roots and tamping down firmly.
  • Create a rim of soil around the planting hole 2” above ground level. This allows water to stand and soak in. (In the fall, spread soil evenly around tree to prevent damage from water freezing around the plant.)


  • Water your new tree. Deep, thorough soaking is best, with a solution of Stark® Tre-Pep® Fertilizer. (If planting in the fall, wait to fertilize until spring for best results.) This effective starter fertilizer helps trees and plants grow quickly and vigorously. After watering, if soil compacts, be sure to add enough soil to fill the hole to ground level.

Grafted Trees

Grafted trees need special planting attention. All Stark Bro’s fruit trees are grafted or budded, the only methods for growing true-to-name planting stock. You can see where the fruiting variety on top is joined to the root variety on the bottom by a bump in the bark, change in the bark color or a slight offset angle. For certain dwarf trees, it’s very important to keep this graft above the ground. Otherwise, roots could develop from above the graft; then your tree could grow to full size by bypassing its dwarfing parts.

Most Stark fruit trees are budded to specially selected clonal rootstocks. For dwarf, semi-dwarf and colonnade apple trees, the bud union should be planted 2-3” above the soil line. Standard size apple trees as well as our Custom Grafted trees should be planted 1-2” deeper than the soil lines from the nursery row.

For dwarf pears, peaches, nectarines, apricots, cherries and plums trees the bud-graft line should remain at or above the ground and for standard size trees they will do better with a slightly deeper planting.

Potted Trees

Stark trees that are grown and shipped in bottomless pots are part of our continuing quest for producing better and stronger trees for the home grower. By following these simple instructions, you will be assured of getting your young tree off to the best possible start.

  • Before planting: When your tree arrives, carefully take it out of the package, making sure not to damage any of the branches. The potted tree has been watered prior to shipment and should arrive moist, but it does need another drink when it arrives at your home. Be sure the container is moist clear through. If you can’t plant your tree immediately upon arrival, keep the pot moist until you can plant it and keep the tree in a sheltered location. DO NOT place your potted tree in a bucket of water. This could cause the roots to rot, and kill your tree.
  • Your tree is ready for planting as soon as it arrives at your home. Then, simply grasp the sides of the container and carefully slide the tree out. The potting soil should remain intact around the tree’s roots. You will want to keep this soil with the tree and plant it, soil and all, into the prepared hole.
  • Fill the hole with soil and water thoroughly with a solution of Stark® Tre-Pep® Fertilizer.
  • Your potted tree may have come with a bamboo stake, which helped straighten the baby tree as it grew in the pot. We recommend that you keep the tree staked when you plant the tree, as we recommend staking for all young trees of any type. You may remove the stake and replace it with a different style if you prefer. Tree Stake, the perfect strapping system for Stark Bro’s trees, comes with a sturdy fiberglass rod, and a revolutionary flexible strapping system that allows for movement and growth, available from Stark Bro’s.

One final point: Please be sure to remove the name tag from your tree. As the tree grows, this small piece of plastic can choke off its circulation, damaging or killing the tree. If you’d like to keep the tag on your tree, retie it loosely with soft twine.

NEXT: Soil Preparation for Pear Trees

Previous: Choosing a Location for Pear Trees

In This Series

  • Introduction
Getting Started
  • Acclimate
  • Location
  • Planting
  • Soil Preparation
Care & Maintenance
  • Fertilizing
  • Pest & Disease Control
  • Pruning
  • Spraying
  • Watering
Other Topics
  • Harvesting

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How and When to Prune Pear Trees

You’ve heard that it’s important to prune your pear trees. You’ve purchased a pair of pruners and have looked at a few resources but you’re still not quite sure when to carry them outside and start snipping.

Maybe you’re nervous, too. How, exactly, does one prune a pear tree?

Photo via Alamy.

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If you want to learn more about growing pears, read our guide.

In this article, we’ll point out exactly why pruning Pyrus trees is important, and walk you through the steps you need to take.

Here’s everything we’ll cover:

What You’ll Learn

  • Why Should You Trim Pear Trees?
  • When to Trim
  • How to Prune
  • Pruning to Create a Central Leader
    • Continued Care for Central Leaders
  • Trimming for a Natural Look
  • A Note on Age

Why Should You Trim Pear Trees?

If you’re wondering why you should bother to cut branches off your pear, you’re not alone. What good does cutting limbs off do?

Here’s the secret: trimming young pear trees helps them grow into and maintain the shape you prefer.

But pruning also does much more, and trees of any age can benefit.

By trimming away boughs that are touching each other or growing too close together, you help eliminate the threat of injury. When there’s friction between them, the bark can rub off, creating an entry point for pests and disease.

And when leafy branches are growing too close together – even if they aren’t touching – sunlight can’t reach every bough individually.

According to experts at the People’s Trust for Endangered Species, pruning fruit trees improves airflow between limbs. This can help dry out excess moisture, like dampness from a recent rainfall, more quickly.

This, in turn, helps keep fungal infections away.

The experts at the People’s Trust also say that a well-pruned tree lets more sunshine in, resulting in large, vigorous leaves and buds.

Diane Brown, extension educator at the Michigan State University Extension, adds that sunlight is crucial in helping the leaves to make sugar, allowing the tree to grow as it should, and helping to produce high-quality fruit.


When to Trim

You should plan to prune in late winter or early spring. Experts at the University of Maine Cooperative Extension say pruning them at this time helps to protect their winter hardiness and health.

Be on the lookout for winter dieback, or cold damaged wood, and prune it away, too.

You’ll still be catching the tree at the tail end of its dormant stage, but the wounds created by the pruners will heal quickly as the growing season begins, reducing the chance that insects will infest the branches through the open cuts, or that disease will take hold.

If your pear desperately needs a trim though, late summer is an option, say the experts at the Maine Extension.

You’ll only want to remove dead or broken branches at this point, as a heavy trim in summer will weaken the plant. You never want to remove more than a third of a tree’s growth in a given year.

To keep your tree as healthy as possible, cut back dead or diseased branches, or limbs that are rubbing against each other, once a year.

How to Prune

Before you begin snipping away, consider what you wish to achieve with your Pyrus tree.

Do you want to train it into a shape ideal for bearing large yields of high-quality fruit year after year? Or would you rather it grow with a more natural look, potentially at the expense of a larger harvest?

If you’re really fancy, or short on space, you can try growing them in the espalier style.

If you prefer the first option, you’ll probably want to prune your pear into what’s known as a “single leader” or “central leader” shape.

Since pears tend to grow straight up, the central leader shape honors the way pears like to grow while also maximizing light exposure to the lower and middle branches, which helps promote fruit production and quality.

But if you’d rather maintain a “natural” look, with branches that grow more naturally and uniformly while also keeping the tree healthy, you can do that, too.

We’ll cover how to prune with either of these goals in mind in a moment. But first, a few tips and notes on equipment.

Fiskars Bypass Pruners

Use a sharp pair of bypass pruners for young specimens and small branches. I like these from Fiskars, which are available from the Home Depot.

For older trees with thick limbs, use a pruning saw like this one from Fiskars, also available from the Home Depot.

Fiskars Pruning Saw

Always cut about an inch above an outward-facing lateral bud, which allows a new branch to grow outward rather than crossing back inward toward the trunk.

For branches that curve upward, make an angled cut so that water can easily run off the open wound. For boughs that stick straight out, a straight cut works well.

Always clean and disinfect your pruning tools before making any cuts.

Never remove more than a third of the tree’s growth in one year.

You can learn more general tips in our guide to the basics of pruning.

Pruning to Create a Central Leader

Your goal here is to allow the trunk to grow straight upward, and to create two to three sets of strong scaffolding branches growing outward from the center.

Pruning of this type should be done at planting time, or during the winter following the tree’s first summer.

If you’re starting out with a whip, or a branchless tree, you’ll want to make what’s called a “heading cut” at planting time, wherein you cut a few inches off a branch, typically removing the tip and one or two buds.

Heading cuts stimulate new growth.

Your heading cut on a whip should reduce the height to 30 to 45 inches, says Diane Brown of the Michigan State University Extension. This will encourage side shoots, which will become your scaffolding branches as the tree grows.

If you’re starting out with a branched tree, you can skip this step. Instead, prune dead, diseased, or broken boughs away by cutting them back to their point of origin.

This is called a “thinning cut.” Unlike a heading cut, a thinning cut does not stimulate new growth but instead redirects energy into the existing branches.

When you cut entire boughs off, take care to leave about one-quarter of an inch of the stump in place, essentially leaving only the branch collar behind.

The branch collar is a ring of thickened tissue surrounding the branch’s attachment point to the trunk. If you cut nice and close to it, the collar will naturally seal itself back over in time.

A longer stump, on the other hand, can rot and potentially breach the collar area’s protective tissue, ultimately infecting the entire tree. But if you cut too much of the stump off, you risk removing the collar entirely, and injuring the trunk.

Photo by Laura Ojeda Melchor.

When the tree has several branches, after about a year of growth, choose four or five to keep. Pick branches with a crotch angle of 45 to 60 degrees.

A narrower angle can result in a weak branch that can’t properly support fruit. It can also cause bark to get trapped in the crotch and begin to crack – an open invitation for rot.

The lowest branch you choose to keep should be about two to three feet off the ground.

Over time, these boughs will become your lowermost scaffolding branches.

In the first several years of growth, also cut away any developing fruits as soon as you see them. This will allow the tree to focus on growing strong and healthy instead of producing fruit, and after year three, you’ll be able to let it bear pears!

Continued Care for Central Leaders

Two or three years after you form the first set of scaffolding limbs, select a second set from the branches that have grown above the lower scaffold.

The crotch of the lowest branch in your second scaffold set should be about two feet above the crotch of the uppermost branch in your lower scaffold.

Cut back any limbs in that in-between space. Leaving this space relatively open will allow sunlight to reach the center of the tree.

Once you’ve done that, trim the branches in your second scaffold set back so that they’re a couple of inches shorter in length than the lower boughs.

According to extension expert Diane Brown, your pear will begin to look a little bit like a Christmas tree.

This shape – narrower at the top, and broader at the bottom – prevents the upper branches and leaves from blocking overhead sunlight that needs to reach the lower scaffold.

If you’re growing a dwarf pear variety, your shaping work is done after you create this second set of scaffolding branches.

But if you’re raising a semi-dwarf or standard tree, you’ll need to create a third and final set.

Whenever the tree has grown several more branches – generally a year or two after you create the second set of scaffolding branches – you’ll repeat the step above to create the third set of scaffolds.

Remember to trim them to be a couple inches shorter than the middle branches.

When your pear reaches the desired height – around eight to 10 feet for a dwarf, 12 to 16 feet for a semi-dwarf, or about 20 feet for a standard variety – you can opt to trim the central leader at the top of the tree, cutting it back to your desired height.

If your pear gets too tall, you may have difficulty harvesting fruit, depending on your height preference and expectations for the tree.

Do this every couple of years to maintain the desired height.

After doing all this work, you can sit back and relax for the most part. The tree will retain the form that you have coaxed it to grow into, and will only need minor adjustments every year or two.

Trimming for a Natural Look

If you love your pear trees but want them to look more natural while still providing fruit every year or two, you can choose a more laid-back trimming option.

All you need to do for this one is to:

  • Cut back broken, dead, or diseased branches.
  • Remove branches that are crossing, growing inward toward the trunk, or rubbing against each other.
  • Trim away any branches with crotch angles narrower than 45 degrees.

Let the tree grow as tall as you want. Every two or three years, stand back and look at the overall shape of your pear.

If you see any limbs sticking out awkwardly, or notice that some areas of the tree are too dense with lateral branches for light to penetrate, you can choose to do a bit of pruning.

Use thinning cuts to remove the lateral branches you don’t want, cutting them back to their point of origin, leaving the branch collar intact.

Otherwise, you really don’t need to do much at all.

A Note on Age

Pruning to shape a pear is best done when the tree is young. Once it’s around five or six years old, the shape is more or less set in stone, and heavy trimming could be detrimental.

If you’ve recently moved into a home with older, neglected pears, cut with care. Remove those broken, dead, or diseased branches first. Then, use thinning cuts to remove branches that crowd the tree.

Make room for sunlight to hit the innermost branches from every angle, taking care not to prune back more than one-third of the branches.

For a severely crowded, tangly tree, you may need to thin about a third of the branches off every year for two or three years, until it looks adequately thinned out.

Did your central leader die back or break off? See our guide for what to do if the top of your tree dies.

A Peary Delicious Bounty

Whether you choose to create a central leader or use a more natural method for pruning your pears, you’re sure to get plenty of delight out of growing your fruit tree. Or, if you’re like me, your fruit trees, plural.

How do you like to prune your pears? Let us know in the comments below! We love reading your stories and answering your questions.

For more helpful tips, remember to check out these articles on growing pears next:

  • 11 of the Best Fruiting Pear Varieties to Grow at Home
  • How to Grow and Care for Asian Pear Trees
  • How to Store Your Pear Harvest

Proper planting of pears in spring: when, how and where to root seedlings

Why do we focus on spring planting? The answer is simple: a pear is a heat-loving plant. The tree belongs to those species that slowly form root lobes with suction roots in autumn.

Root hairs are the organ of the root system that absorbs water and nutrients from the soil. They live no more than one vegetative period and. when transplanted, they are damaged first. In winter, with a lack of formed root hairs, dehydration occurs and the seedling freezes. Therefore, pears take root better when planted in early spring, when they can be provided with moisture. It is especially important to observe this rule when working with winter tree species.

Optimum time for pear planting in spring

It happens that the spring planting of pear seedlings is disappointing, but there is only one reason for disappointment - a delay in terms. The general rule is: the sooner the better! The optimal period is considered the first 5-6 days from the beginning of gardening - as soon as the ground thaws. If planting is planned later, then the seedling should be shaded and ensure that the roots get moisture.

Tree planting always consists of 6 stages:

  • seat selection;
  • soil preparation;
  • site marking;
  • excavation of planting holes;
  • planting;
  • watering and pruning new trees.

Preparing the soil for spring planting of pears

The best place for pears is a site closed by buildings or plantings from the north winds. It can also be located near the southwestern tip of the neighboring site. Winter varieties of pears, as the most sensitive plants, are placed near the southern wall of the house.

Practice shows that on deeply fertilized soils, plants begin to bear fruit earlier and more abundantly. On weak soils, fruit trees enter the fruiting phase for a long time, develop worse, get sick more often. Therefore, the soil for the pear should be prepared.

In many areas of the central part of the country, under a relatively shallow nutrient layer, there is a very dense, saturated with sodium salts, soil - solonchak. Below it are layers that contain calcium useful for plants.

To increase the fertility of the earth, it is dug 75 cm deep. Objectives of the measure:

  1. Destruction of the subsoil layer, impervious to moisture and air.
  2. Increase in the thickness of the humus, cultivated horizon.

It is better to complete the pass on the entire area allocated for the fruit plantation. If this is not possible, there is a reason to make an enlarged hole for the pear - 2–2.5 m wide,

If the basis of the soil is sand, the soil should be improved. Pear grows well on loamy, but rather moisture-permeable and nutrient-rich soil. Therefore, clay is added to sandstones. About 12 buckets are brought into a regular hole, 1.5 m wide; in an enlarged pit - 20-25 buckets. Clay, sand and black soil are evenly mixed. A thin layer of clean clay is laid at the bottom of the pit.

In addition, when preparing a pit, up to 15 kg of humus or compost are added to it, and immediately before spring planting, 60–120 g of potassium salt (or 1 kg of wood ash) and 250–250 g of superphosphate. More fertilizers are applied to loams, and less to sandstones. Professionals advise applying organic and mineral fertilizers together in half doses: in their opinion, the result is much higher.

Important: Do not bring fresh manure into the pit.

Pits for spring planting are prepared from autumn. As an exception, digging holes in the spring is allowed, two weeks before planting pears in the ground.

Placement of seedlings in the garden: pear height and planting density

Marking is carried out taking into account already standing buildings and growing trees. Pear in nurseries is usually grafted onto vigorous rootstocks, so the distance between adjacent seedlings when laying a garden should be 7 x 6 meters. However, a pear can initially be grafted onto a quince. In this case, plants can be planted thicker: a 5 x 3 m area will be enough.

The interval for planting pears also depends on the terrain. If the site is located on a slope, choose the smaller of the values. In flat gardens, the distance between trees is increased to the maximum. The largest interval is also set for irrigated gardens,

Violation of stocking density rules is an insidious mistake. Its results appear after 5-7 years, when there is little that can be corrected. The crowns of trees that have entered the time of full fruiting are closed into a continuous tent. Roots hidden from view also intertwine. The thickened garden is a sad sight: a forest park without fruits, a monument to aimless labor.

When sizing trees, the best rule of thumb is: the smaller the garden, the smaller the trees should be.

Preparing pear seedlings for planting

Pear seedlings are usually planted at the age of one and a half to two years. The standard plant has a branched, root system about 20-35 cm long.

First determine the color of the root wood in the section. When planting in spring, the roots are usually not pruned. An exception is made for diseased skeletal processes - they are cut in small portions selectively. The cut area should be minimal, the surface smooth: the work is done with a sharp tool. Fibrous roots are preserved as much as possible - root hairs are formed on them.


  • healthy roots - white wood;
  • dried - brown;
  • frozen - black-grey.

If more than half the length of the roots are dark, the diseased plant is discarded.

  1. The above-ground part must be smooth-bore with even boles. The crown should consist of 3–4 skeletal branches (for pear seedlings 2 or more years old), evenly distributed along the circumference and height.
  2. The diameter of the stem at the root collar should be approximately 15 mm.
  3. Below the grafting point, especially below the root collar, there should be no shoots or shoots.
  4. Fresh wounds and cuts on seedlings are immediately covered with wax garden pitch.

To keep the root system healthy, it is always kept in a closed state - buried or packed in a container with nutritious soil.

We supply pear seedlings with hermetically packed root system placed in a peat substrate. Thanks to this, the underground part of the plant remains fresh during the entire transportation period. If during transportation, transshipment or storage you allowed the roots to be exposed and dry out, before planting, place the underground part of the pear in a water mash of black soil and ash, prepared in a 1: 1 ratio and soak it in a root solution.

How to plant a pear tree

The basic operations are the same for all crops.

  1. Before planting the seedling, a stake is driven into the hole in the center. The earth is trampled down along the edges of the pit. In the middle, a hill is made of fertile soil, a tree is carefully placed on it from the north side of the stake.
  2. From edge to edge of the pit, a landing board is laid - a measure of the depth of embedding a tree. The seedling is raised so that the root neck (it is located below the grafting site) is at the level of the board.
  3. The roots are covered with earth: it is served in small portions, evenly scattered between the roots. The trunk is regularly shaken so that the soil evenly fills all the voids. From time to time, the earth is compacted by hand.
  4. When the pit is full, the earth is trampled down. Start walking from the edge of the pit to the center.
  5. Collets are made along the edges of the pit so that a hole 10–15 cm deep is obtained.
  6. Pour 5 buckets of water under the pear.
  7. Holes are mulched with compost. Layer thickness - 8–10 cm.
  8. The trunk is tied to the stake with a soft wide ribbon. The loop is made free, in the shape of a figure eight.

Do not spud the trunk in spring. When planting in early spring, pear seedling branches are cut off.

First pear pruning

First shorten the longest side branch - remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the length. They act on the principle: the longer the shoot, the more it is cut off. Then the rest of the sides are cut at the same level. The central conductor is made 20–25 cm longer than the side branches. In total, up to 5 buds are removed on each shoot.

Pruning is done on either the outer or inner bud. The task is to form the skeletal branches at an angle of 60o-65o. If the branch is located at too sharp or too obtuse an angle, it is shortened so that a 0.5 cm long spine remains after the bud.

In total, 4 lateral processes are formed on the trunk of the pear. This is the basis of the future crown - skeletal branches of the first order.

Published: 02 Mar 2020

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site selection, planting hole preparation, scheme and technology, propagation by seeds, seedlings, care features

It is not too difficult to grow an abundantly fruiting pear tree in a country house or garden plot. It is enough to choose the right variety, as well as to plant pear seedlings on a previously prepared site in the optimal time. It is also allowed to grow fruit crops through self-propagation of pears.


  • 1 Duration and landing scheme
  • 2 pears: Select of the variety (video)
  • 3 Methods of propagation of pears
  • 4 Seeds
  • 5 How to plant a pear (video)
  • 6 Growing seedlings
  • 7
  • 8 How to grow a pear in the middle lane (video)

Dates and landing pattern

Pear planting must be carried out in a pre-selected and prepared area. It is best to plant a fruit crop on soils that are light in texture, represented by loam or sandy loam. The soil must be loose and permeable to air and moisture. The planting pattern and distance between plants must take into account the rules and meet all the parameters of the equipment used in the care of fruit plantations and harvesting.

During the autumn planting, remember that the trees must have time to take root and take root well before the onset of frost. In spring, it is recommended to plant a fruit crop around April, even before the buds actively bloom on the plant. As a rule, the spring planting option is practiced in regions with favorable soil and climatic conditions. Pear seedlings are recommended to be planted next to the building, on the south, southwest or southeast side. Large pears should be planted at a considerable distance from each other.

A standard pear tree nursery area in home gardening can be 6 x 3 m; 6 x 2 m; 5 x 3 m; 5 x 2 m; 4 x 2 m. When digging a site, compost or peat is introduced into soddy-podzolic soils, as well as superphosphate, potassium chloride and ground limestone or dolomite. In areas represented by sandy and sandy loamy soils, clay soil and humus are introduced.

Pear: variety selection (video)

After the landing site is marked, it is necessary to start digging the landing hole:

  • the standard width of the landing pit should be one meter at a depth of 0.6-0.7 m;
  • on bulk soil mounds, you should install the root system of the plant and carefully distribute it evenly over the planting hole;
  • after planting, the root system is covered with fertile soil, after which abundant watering of the plant is carried out.

Depending on the region in which cultivation is planned, planting dates may vary. The best time for planting pear seedlings in the central regions of our country is spring. In warmer regions, planting can be done both in spring and autumn.

Propagation of pears

The fruit crop may be propagated by seed or by vegetative means, including the use of buds, shoot parts and root shoots. Seed propagation is used when it is necessary to grow a stock or breed a new variety.

When growing cultivars, grafting of buds or buds and shoots onto a plant obtained from seeds is used. Parts of shoots or cuttings may be used to graft a pear tree or other pear-compatible species into the canopy. In the central and northwestern regions, the rootstock should be a wild forest pear seedling, or a local semi-cultivated pear form.

Propagation by seeds

Reproduction of a pear from a seed is a rather time-consuming and lengthy process. Agrotechnics for growing a fruit tree from seeds at home is as follows:

  • in autumn or winter, cut open a ripe pear and place the removed pits in a container of warm water;
  • washed seeds should be laid out on a paper towel to dry;
  • fill a plastic bag with moist soil mixture based on peat or sphagnum moss;
  • plant seeds with a depth of 10 cm, then tie a bag and place it in the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator;
  • it is periodically required to check the moisture indicators and moisten the soil substrate in a plastic bag;
  • after three months, the pear seeds extracted from the bag must be soaked for a couple of days in warm water;
  • after soaking, the seeds are sown in flower pots, which are three-quarters filled with ready-made soil for growing seedlings.

It is desirable to plant grown and strengthened pear seedlings in a permanent place in open ground at the end of August or at the beginning of September. A large amount of planting material, depending on the varietal characteristics, must be planted with a distance of seven to ten meters from each other. When planting in autumn, it is important to protect the plant from rodents, freezing and drying. In Siberia and the Urals, as well as regions belonging to the zone of risky farming, it is preferable to plant in the spring.

How to plant a pear (video)

Growing from seedlings

One-year-old and two-year-old pear seedlings take root most easily. Before planting in a permanent place, it is necessary to cut off all damaged parts of the root system from seedlings to healthy tissues with a clean and sharp garden tool. The more healthy roots, the faster the plant takes root in a new place and more actively forms a vegetative mass.

When planting, the roots of a pear seedling must be placed over the entire surface of the nutrient soil pad at the base of the planting hole. The root system needs to be straightened, and the root neck should be placed five centimeters above the soil surface. It is very important to ensure that there are no voids between the roots of the planted seedling, and the entire area of ​​the planting hole with roots is filled with soil. For irrigation, about two buckets of warm water are spent on each plant. It is advisable to fix the stem part of the pear seedling on a support peg, which will allow you to correctly direct the growth of the plant.

Care instructions

Caring for a fruit plant should be correct at all stages of growth and development of a fruit crop. In the first years after planting, for good growth and the formation of a strong tree crown, competent care must be provided: