How to plant a potted tree


How to plant a container-grown tree

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When to plant - Fall and winter are the best seasons to plant in our area. Planting during this period allows more time for tree roots to become established so that they can meet the water needs of the leaves in hot weather. Trees can be successfully planted in spring and summer, but proper watering is especially critical for trees planted during hot weather.Fall is the best season to plant in most temperate areas of California. Avoid trees that are pot-bound or have been topped or excessively pruned up ("lollipop" style). A properly-grown tree should stand upright without the aid of the pot stake. Also beware of wounds on the trunk and any evidence of root decay.

Picking good planting stock - In general, the smaller the tree, the easier it will be to establish successfully. Larger trees take longer to become established. Ideally, the top should have a single main stem with branches distributed along it. Avoid trees whose main stem has been cut back or which have been excessively pruned up ("lollipop" style) or have large, unhealed pruning wounds on the trunk. A properly-grown tree will be thicker at the base and taper gradually toward the top. Avoid any tree that shows large circling roots near the trunk. Such roots will never straighten out. Also avoid trees with decayed or mushy roots.

Preparing a site and planting your tree - Investing a little time and effort at planting will pay off in terms of faster tree establishment and better growth and vigor. A good quality tree may still perform poorly if it is not properly planted in a well-prepared site.

 

1. Prepare the soil at the planting site. Soils in subdivisions are highly compacted during construction, and tree roots cannot grow in such highly compacted soil. Most tree roots grow in the upper 1.5 to 2 feet of soil and spread far beyond the tree's canopy. Your tree will perform best if you can loosen the soil in the rootzone to a depth of at least 1 ft and a distance of at least 3 ft from the trunk in all directions. You can do this by spading and turning over the soil with a shovel in the same manner that one prepares the soil in a garden. You can also use power equipment to do the job. Soil augers, trenchers, or backhoes are the most effective for big jobs. Most rototillers do not till deep enough.

2. Dig the hole. Once you have turned over the soil at the planting site, digging the actual planting hole will be fairly easy. The hole should be no deeper than the depth of the tree's root ball. The tree root ball should rest on firm soil at the center of the hole so that the tree will not settle excessively. Make the planting hole about twice as wide as the pot to allow for spreading of roots away from the rootball.

3. Unpot the tree. Carefully remove the tree from the pot to avoid breaking off roots. Unwind all circling roots. Circling roots will not straighten themselves out and can eventually strangle the tree as they expand. Kinked, circled, or knotted roots that cannot be straightened out should be cut off cleanly with sharp pruning shears. Because roots are critical for tree survival and establishment, try to minimize the amount of root removal and damage.

4. Set the tree. Gently place the tree in the planting hole, laying roots out so they radiate away from the trunk. Don't allow roots to kink or double back at the edge of the hole - expand of the hole so that roots can spread out if necessary. Make sure that when the tree is set in the hole, the top of the root ball is slightly above the final grade of the soil. The root crown (where the first roots emerge from the trunk) should be set a bit higher than the surrounding soil so that water doesn't pool next to the trunk.

5. Backfill the hole. Add soil to the planting hole and firm it down moderately with your hand to remove large air gaps. Avoid creating a sharp boundary between the container soil and the surrounding soil by gently breaking up the container soil as you refill the hole. Be sure that the tree is set at the proper height as you fill the hole. After the soil settles, the soil line of the tree in the pot should be the same as the final planted soil line. Once the hole is filled, water the rootball area with a low flow from a hose to settle the soil. If the top of the root ball sinks below grade after watering, gently pull it back up to level.

6. Stake only if necessary. Remove the pot stake, if any, that came with the tree. If the tree appears stable, staking is not needed (this is more likely to be the case for smaller trees). If staking is necessary, hold the trunk with one hand to find the height at which the unsupported top can stand up on its own and will spring back to a vertical position if lightly flexed. Position flexible support ties (no wires) about 6 inches above that point. A loose fitting figure 8 cushions the tree from rubbing against the stake and allows for some movement that stimulates the tree to develop taper. Use 2 stakes, placed in a line perpendicular to the prevailing wind direction. Place stakes beyond the container root ball, and cut stakes off about 2 inches above the ties to keep the trunk and branches from rubbing on the stakes. Remove support ties and stakes as soon as the tree becomes established, normally within one year of planting. Additional stakes or fencing may be needed around the tree to provide protection from people, pets, and equipment.

7. Mulch your tree. Use 3 to 4 inches of an organic mulch, such as bark or wood chips, to cover the soil surface at the planting site, but keep the mulch depth to 1 inch or less next to the trunk. Mulch should extend at least 2 to 3 ft away from the trunk on all sides. Mulch will help your tree get established by moderating soil temperatures, suppressing weed growth, and conserving soil moisture. If planting in a lawn, turf should be kept at least 2 to 3 ft from the trunk of newly planted trees because it suppresses tree growth.

8. Water your tree. Until new roots grow into the soil of the planting site, your tree will be dependent on the water that is held in the original root ball area. Especially if you are planting in late spring or summer it is critical that this root ball area does not dry out. In areas with clay soils, the surrounding soil will pull moisture out of the porous soil mix the tree is potted in, so your tree may dry out much more quickly than you expect. Check and, if needed, water your new tree right at the root ball every few days for the first several weeks during the growing season. The soil around the rootball should remain moist though not saturated. Within several months, when sufficient numbers of roots have grown into the loosened, mulched soil surrounding the rootball, you can direct your irrigation to that area. If you plant in fall or winter, you will probably need to water your new tree every two to four weeks during its first summer, more often in especially hot periods. If your tree is planted in spring or later, you may need to water as often as once a week throughout the first summer. When irrigating, apply enough water to thoroughly wet the root zone to a depth of at least a foot, but don't water so often that the soil stays waterlogged.

Planting Trees Correctly | Home & Garden Information Center

When to Plant

Container-grown plants and balled and burlapped (B&B) plants with well-developed root systems can be planted throughout the year. However, most B&B plants are dug and planted during the cooler months after leaf drop. Red maples, crape myrtles, hollies and Southern magnolia can be dug at certain times during the summer. Innovative methods of digging during the winter and then potting the B&B trees for subsequent sale during the summer have begun in South Carolina.

As stated, container grown plants can be safely planted at any time of the year, but they are best planted in the fall to take advantage of the dormant season root growth. Unlike the tops of ornamental plants that go dormant and cease growth for the winter, roots of ornamental plants in the Southeast continue to grow throughout the warmer fall and winter months. Fall planting allows the carbohydrates produced during the previous growing season to be directed to root growth since there is little demand from the top. This additional root growth may lessen the dependency of the plant on supplemental irrigation the following summers.

Trees and shrubs must be planted at the right depth and receive the right amount of water if they are to establish themselves and flourish. Planting too deeply and under- or overwatering are among the most common and serious planting errors.

Soil Preparation

While shaping the final grade of the planting beds, remember the importance of good drainage. Poorly drained soils are a leading cause of plant problems in the landscape. Therefore, before placing the first plant in the ground it is important to take steps to assure adequate drainage.

If a site is known to be poorly-drained, create raised beds. Often beds can be elevated 8 to 12 inches above the existing grade by using native soil on site, but sometimes it is necessary to bring in additional well-drained soil. In extreme cases, you may have to install a drain tile to help carry water off the site.

In shaping the final grade, avoid leaving dips or pockets where water is likely to stand. Shape beds so that excess water will be carried off the site and away from buildings. Water also can be directed to unplanted areas. Few ornamental plants, with the exception of pond plants, can tolerate long periods of standing water. Good drainage is critical for most ornamental plants.

If you are planting around new construction, remove any debris left on the site that may cause plant growth problems. Chunks of concrete, roofing shingles, globs of tar, oil spills and sheetrock are a few of the hazards of new construction sites. These can result in long-term growth problems. Soil compaction is also a problem near new construction. Tilling deeply and incorporating organic matter is often sufficient to loosen hard compacted soils.

Soil Test

In addition to examining the physical properties of the soil and taking corrective measures on poorly drained soils, a soil test will determine which nutrients need to be applied and whether you need to adjust the pH. A soil sample is best taken several weeks before planting so you will know how to treat the soil at planting time. However, if new soil is brought onto the site at planting time or if soil is moved around during the final grading, it is best to wait until all the soil is in place before sampling. You can adjust pH or surface-apply fertilizer at the recommended rate later, after plants are established. Soil testing is available at a nominal fee through county Extension offices. For more information on soil testing, refer to the fact sheet HGIC 1652, Soil Testing.

The majority of ornamental plants prefer a soil pH from 5.8 to 6.5. Above or below this pH range, nutrient deficiencies often result. To raise the pH level of an acid soil, dolomitic lime is usually added, while the pH level of alkaline soils can be lowered with amendments like sulfur or aluminum sulfate. Adjusting soil pH without the benefit of a soil test can result in nutrition problems that are difficult to counteract and correct. Follow soil

test results.

Organic Amendments

Organic amendments such as composted products are applied to soils to improve the nutrient and water-holding capacity of soils, or, in general terms, to improve soil tilth. Research has shown that when adding organic matter to a soil, it is best to incorporate it throughout the rooting zone as opposed to placing it in the planting hole. By incorporating an amendment uniformly in the soil, the entire rooting area becomes a uniform growing environment for roots.

On the other hand, when a planting hole alone is amended, the structure of the soil in the hole can differ significantly from that of the surrounding native soil, if an excessive amount or the wrong type is added. This can encourage the roots to stay within the confines of the hole and discourages them from entering the surrounding native soil, especially if a perfectly round planting hole is dug.

Some types of organic materials and quantities of them can also upset the water equilibrium between the surrounding native soil and the soil in the hole. Fine-textured organic matter such as peat moss, placed in the planting hole can act like a sponge in a bathtub, holding too much moisture after rain or irrigation. Coarser-textured material, such as composted pine bark, is less likely to hold excess moisture. In heavy clay soils, use a shovel or mattock to notch out the sides of the round planting hole. This will enable growing roots to more easily enter the surrounding soil.

Organic matter should comprise approximately 10 to 20 percent of the total soil volume. For example, preparing a bed 8 inches deep requires the addition of about 1 to 2 inches of organic matter such as compost, leaf mold, or composted pine bark. Drainage can be improved in clay soils by subsoiling or deep tilling prior to adding organic matter.

Composted materials immediately provide organic matter to the soil. Do not use uncomposted bark products as amendments. Freshly milled bark that has not been composted will slowly rob plants of nitrogen when used as an amendment. As microorganisms in the soil feed on bark and decompose it, they will use nitrogen in the soil. Also, the pH of the soil often drops dramatically below the desirable range when uncomposted materials are used as amendments.

Well-composted organic products have a rich, earthy smell, a crumbly appearance, and the original organic materials are no longer recognizable. For the best choices of composted material, choose either well decomposed material from your home compost pile, or purchase composted pine bark. The composted pine bark may still contain some small bark chips, but this can aid in improving the internal drainage in fine-textured clay soils. Additionally, composted pine bark may help suppress certain soil borne disease causing organisms.

How Deep to Plant

Trees and shrubs must be planted at the right depth and receive the right amount of water if they are to establish themselves and flourish. Planting too deeply and under- or overwatering are among the most common and serious planting errors.

In well-drained soil, the planting hole should never be dug any deeper than the height of the root ball. This means that the soil at the bottom of the hole is left undisturbed. Setting the root ball on loosened soil will cause the tree to settle and sink too deeply into the soil. Locate the topmost layers of roots in the root ball so that it will be level with the soil surface. Check to be sure that there is not an excess layer of soil (or container media) already covering the root ball. As little as a half-inch of excess soil over the root ball can inhibit or prevent water from entering the root ball, especially on trees planted from containers. Only mulch should be placed over the root ball. In well-drained soil, the planting hole should be at least twice and preferably five times wider than the root ball. Roots will grow more quickly into loosened soil, thus speeding up the tree’s establishment time.

In poorly drained or compacted soil, the plant is best placed higher than its original planting depth at about 2 to 4 inches higher than the surrounding soil. Be sure to build the soil up beside the root ball so that the sides are not exposed, and do not place additional soil on top of the root ball. This will allow oxygen to reach the roots in the upper surface of soil. It will also cause excess water to drain away from the plant rather than collecting beneath it. Do not disturb the soil under the root ball to prevent any later settling, which will move the plant roots deeper into the soil. The top of the root ball may dry out quickly in the summer on some sites, so be prepared to irrigate accordingly.

Preparing & Setting the Root Ball

Trees and shrubs grown in plastic or other hard-sided containers can be removed from their containers and placed directly in the holes prepared for them. Cut any circling roots so they will not strangle the tree later on. If a tree or shrub is pot-bound, use pruning shears or a serrated knife to make slices 1 to 2 inches deep going from the top of the root ball to the bottom. Make these slices in three or four places around the root ball. Pull the roots growing along the outside of the root ball away from the root ball. Research has shown that although this kind of pruning does not increase root growth after planting, slicing root balls, whether pot-bound or not, enhances the distribution of regenerated roots in the surrounding landscape soil. New roots grow from behind the cut ends.

When preparing the hole for a bare-root tree, dig it wide enough so that roots can be spread out. Do not cut or break roots or bend them in order to fit the hole. Use a sharp pruning tool to cut or trim any roots that are obviously dead, injured or dried.

Spread the roots out and position the topmost root just under the soil surface. Shallow roots either may be parallel with the soil surface or angled slightly downwards. Some people spread the roots over a mound of firm soil in the planting hole and carefully place soil between groups of roots; others wash soil between the roots.

Natural or synthetic burlap is used on trees that are balled-and-burlapped (B&B). To determine which type has been used, hold a match to a small portion of the burlap. As a rule, natural burlap will burn and synthetic will melt.

Synthetic burlap will not decompose in the soil and can cause roots to girdle the tree. Because this could ultimately strangle the tree, remove synthetic burlap entirely. After pulling burlap away from the sides of the root ball, tip the root ball to one side and push the burlap underneath it as far as possible. Then tip the root ball to the other side and slide the burlap out from under it. The tipping should be performed by handling the root ball; pushing on the trunk of the tree could crack the root ball. When a wire basket is holding synthetic burlap in place, cut away the basket to remove the synthetic burlap, or, if the lower portion of the basket must be left intact, cut an “X” in the burlap in each section of the basket.

Natural burlap is biodegradable and can be left along the sides and bottom of the root ball, but should always be removed from the top of the root ball where it is subject to drying out. Dry burlap repels water, making it difficult to rewet the root ball. In poorly drained areas, remove the natural burlap entirely, if possible, to prevent it from holding too much moisture near the roots.

Wire baskets and wire wrapping are frequently used to help hold a B&B root ball intact during shipping and handling. Trees that are stored after being dug with a tree spade are also placed in wire baskets. This is an effective means of keeping roots in contact with soil until planting. Remove at least the top portion of the wire basket after the root ball is in place.

Filling the Planting Hole

The soil used to fill in around the root ball of the newly planted tree or shrub is called backfill. Your best backfill will be the loosened original soil from the planting hole mixed with 10 to 20 percent compost.

Loosen and break up any clods of soil before backfilling. Clods in the backfill create detrimental air pockets around the root ball and could hinder root growth and establishment. Place the plant into the planting area or hole at the correct depth, and then backfill the bottom half of the space around the root ball.

Tamp the soil lightly with your foot. If amendments are not used, do not tamp so heavily as to compact the soil. Finish filling the hole with loose, unamended soil, and gently tamp again.

Construct a 3-inch-high water ring around the edge of the root ball to hold irrigation water. Initially the root ball will need to be watered directly because roots have not yet spread into the surrounding soil.

Pruning at Planting

Little if any pruning should be necessary at the time of transplant. Do not prune a B&B plant to compensate for root loss. Research indicates that pruning does not help overcome transplant shock unless the plant is receiving insufficient water.

Branches that are injured, diseased or dead may be pruned but are also an indication of a poor-quality tree. It would be best to exchange it for a healthy one.

Trees with poor structure should be pruned at planting to correct the problem, especially if no further pruning is planned for the next year or two. Poor form should not be permitted to develop, as it will become increasingly more difficult to correct. On trees with adequate form, begin pruning for structural development a year or two after planting.

Mulching

Apply 2 to 4 inches of organic mulch over the planted area. Do not allow mulch to touch the stem or trunk to reduce chances of stem rot. Mulching helps to eliminate weeds, retain moisture in the soil, moderate soil temperatures, and eventually adds to soil organic matter content. It also helps decrease erosion of raised soil around plants that are planted above the soil level. Some commonly used mulches include pine needles, pine bark, hardwood bark, wood chips and partially ground leaves.

Watering

Initially the root ball will need to be watered directly because roots have not yet spread into the surrounding soil. The raised soil water ring will help concentrate the water in the root ball area. Water the plant slowly and well after mulching. It is important to note that many plants die from too little or too much water during the first few months after planting. Plants in well-drained soil often get too little water, and those in poorly drained soil get too much water.

Become familiar with the planting site, and try to maintain constant moisture (not saturation) in the root ball for the first few months after transplanting. Some sites dry out more quickly than others and will require more watering. Water rings should be removed by the end of the second growing season if they have not settled on their own. Good watering practices result in plants that establish more rapidly and thus become more quickly resistant to drought, pests and disease. For further information on watering newly planted shrubs and trees, refer to the fact sheet HGIC 1056, Watering Shrubs & Trees.

Maintenance

For more information on fertilizing trees and shrubs, refer to the fact sheet HGIC 1000, Fertilizing Trees & Shrubs.

Para obtener la versión en español de esta hoja informativa, consulte HGIC 1001S, La forma correcta de plantar árboles.

Originally published 05/99

If this document didn’t answer your questions, please contact HGIC at [email protected] edu or 1-888-656-9988.

Seedlings in containers: planting coniferous plants in containers, how to plant a tree in a pot

Today in garden centers you can see a wide variety of different seedlings in containers. In addition to perennial flowers and herbs, these are various conifers, ornamental shrubs, and even trees. As a rule, such plants are more expensive than just dug up plants. But this is offset by their better survival, the ability to plant conifers, shrubs and trees throughout the season, as well as the opportunity to buy a rare plant that is rarely found on sale. But in order for your spending not to be in vain, and you choose a really healthy and, I emphasize this word, container plant, you need to know a few nuances in the selection and further planting of conifers, seedlings in containers and trees in pots:

How to choose a healthy seedling:

First, you need to determine whether this plant is really grown in a container or an unscrupulous seller planted it there shortly before the sale.

To do this, try to pull the plant out of the pot a few centimeters and look at the earthen ball with roots. Small yellowish roots should be visible along the edge of the clod, the thicker they braid the clod, the better. Roots are often visible in the hole in the bottom of the pot - this is also good, but try not to choose those plants whose roots have already crawled out of this hole. If you buy a tree in a pot or in a plastic container, check that the roots in the earthen ball are not chopped off, but end in branches with small roots.

Second, determine if the seedling is too dry.

Often, sellers do not take good care of container plants, watering them rarely or vice versa. Such plants do not take root well, and often even die. This happens especially often with conifers, often even dead junipers or spruces can be found on sale - after all, the needles do not fall off immediately!

To check this, tap on the pot and listen to the sound, the better the plant was watered, the more muffled the sound will be. Stick your index finger into the pot and check if the soil is moist at that depth. It is very important that the earthen ball is moistened to the entire depth of the pot.

If you choose a coniferous plant in a container, feel the needles. They must be elastic, there should not be dry and yellow needles, dried twigs.

How to plant a seedling in a container:

I want to tell you about the method that my teacher, doctor of biological sciences and a landscape designer with many years of experience, taught me.

Before planting, be sure to soak the seedlings in containers, in any containers with water, with the root root dissolved in it (1 bag per bucket of water). To do this, you can use any container that will fit the entire container as a whole. Wait until the plants stop floating on the surface and the container sinks and sinks to the bottom.

Dig a hole slightly larger than the pot. The roots will still go beyond the pit, and so they will quickly get used to the environment in which they will live. Then fill the hole with water; after the water has been absorbed into the ground, if necessary, drainage is laid at the bottom of the pit (sand, gravel, broken brick, 15 cm layer). Then the following is done - water is again poured into the pit, several shovels of earth, humus or compost are added, and all this is mixed with a shovel to the state of sour cream.

Carefully remove the plant from the container, try not to pull it by the stem, but shake it out of the container, slightly squeezing its walls. We put the plant in a hole just below the soil level, move it a little in the hole so that the roots move away from the coma. Then we pour the earth to the level of the soil, make small sides along the edge of the pit and water it. With this method of planting, the plant seems to be “absorbed” into the ground, there are no destructive voids around its roots, it practically does not waste energy on taking root and immediately grows.

Minor nuances when planting different plants:

When planting coniferous plants in a hole with water, it is better to pour not just earth, but a mixture of earth and peat or a purchased soil mixture for conifers, since these plants need more acidic soil. The same applies to plants that grow on acidic soils - rhododendrons, azaleas, garden blueberries, etc.

How to plant a tree in a pot - after you fill the pit with water once, drive a lump into the bottom of the pit, from the edge of the pit. And drive a stake from the north, or from the leeward side. If you have a grafted plant, then do not bury it - the graft should be above the soil level. After planting a tree, be sure to tie it to a stake. It is better to do this with linen twine.

If the plant is capable of vegetative reproduction (willows, shrubs, conifers), then it's okay if you bury it a little during planting. This is even a plus, since additional roots form on buried shoots, which will only increase the root mass and thereby strengthen the seedling.

This method of planting conifers, shrubs and potted trees has never let me down - all plants take root quickly and remarkably. In addition, this method is physically much easier than conventional planting. Now I plant all plants, and not just seedlings in containers, only in this wonderful way! Try it too!

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Fruit trees in pots and containers: how to plant and grow

You can make your own orchard even on the terrace by growing mini fruit trees in pots.

Vera Ermakova

Pixabay

Who among us has not dreamed at least sometimes of our own orchard? To admire fragrant flowers in May, and to harvest a sweet harvest in autumn? Do you think this requires a really large plot and many years of tireless work? We have good news: modern agricultural technologies make it possible to set up a real fruit plantation in a very small area, and these small trees will begin to bear fruit very soon after planting. We tell you what fruit trees in pots you can buy and grow even on an open balcony and what you need for this.

How to plant fruit trees in pots

The most important thing you need to plant a mini fruit tree at home is a large pot. Such fruit trees are usually sold either "bare root" - just a plant without soil - or in 20-40 liter containers. As they grow, the trees should be transplanted into large 95-115 liter pots by transshipment so as not to damage the roots.

Indoor mini fruit trees are usually planted in two containers. The first is a pot, often plastic, into which soil is poured and a tree is planted. Usually it is not more than 50 cm in diameter. The second is decorative, for example, wooden or ceramic. Many choose them so that they match in size and fit into each other without a gap. But in fact, such a gap will be beneficial. Due to the air layer, the soil will heat up more slowly in hot weather and cool down in cold weather. Also, excess water will go into this free space during irrigation and gradually soak into the soil, preventing it from drying out.

You will also need to purchase a support to which you will tie your indoor fruit tree in a pot - the wide leaves of most fruit trees literally "catch" the wind, and the tree can bend or break.

Pots with legs and pallets will help to preserve the durability of the pots and the life of the plants. Pay attention to the presence of drainage holes to prevent stagnant water at the roots of an indoor mini fruit tree in a pot.

The best time to plant fruit trees in pots is from mid-autumn to early spring.

How to grow fruit trees in pots

Mini fruit trees in pots are not only a decorative landscaping technique, but also a tasty crop. To do this, plant dwarf varieties of plums, apple and pear trees, apricot and peach trees. All of them will need nutritious soil, plenty of compost, occasional drainage, and abundant watering. Use mulch to slow the evaporation of water from the pot. And do not forget to cut the fruits in time so that thin branches do not break under their weight. Sometimes this has to be done even before the final ripening, so as not to harm the tree.

Fruit trees in containers that are located in an open area are best placed in light shade. The sun's rays falling on them most of the day can cause burns to wood and leaves. For the winter, plants that do not have winter hardiness should be transferred indoors. But even more hardy trees need to be protected from frost. The soil in pots freezes more than in the ground. Therefore, with the advent of cold weather, flowerpots should be insulated with insulating material.

If you bought a mini fruit tree just for your home, you need to make sure that it is not in a draft or near heating appliances. Lighting should also be taken into account, which should not be too much, but sufficient for normal plant growth. It is under the influence of sunlight that fruits accumulate sugar and become sweet.

Since fruit trees, even dwarf ones, are perennials that live and bear fruit for several years, choose potting mixes that release nutrients slowly.

Feed potted fruit trees every two weeks from flowering until mid-fall with high potassium formulations such as liquid algae and water them well. It's a good idea to mulch the surface of the soil (such as perlite or vermiculite) to retain moisture.

Varieties of mini fruit trees in pots

You can create a fruit garden from mini potted trees even at home on a balcony, terrace or in a small area. We offer you the most popular types.

Apple trees

This is perhaps the most common of all mini fruit trees in pots. Apple trees are loved, among other things, because these trees can grow both as a bush and as a tree, and therefore they can also be used for additional decoration of your site or terrace.

Pears

The biggest danger when growing pears is late frost. These homemade fruit trees in pots bloom quite early, and our May night cold snap can kill the flowers. To reduce the risk, cover flowering branches with light fleece overnight - this will save the future crop.

( By the way: Stars in the garden: 10 artists who grow vegetables and fruits)

Cherry trees

As we mentioned above, cherry trees are self-fertile, and therefore just one plant is enough for a harvest. But the biggest problem is the birds that happily peck at your berries. Try installing a net around a mini fruit tree in a pot - nothing is guaranteed, but sometimes it helps. And keep in mind: the shadier the side on which the cherry grows, the more tart the berries will turn out.

Plums

An almost perfect mini fruit tree in a pot, especially for those who can't spend much time in the country or simply don't want to mess around with the care too much. Pruning is minimal, the trees are self-fertile, and therefore one is enough. The only thing you need is to thin out the ripening fruits, otherwise the yield will be uneven: very large in one year and practically zero in the next.

( By the way: Poor compatibility: which vegetables, trees and shrubs should not be planted nearby)

Peach and apricot trees

These trees, like plum trees, require almost no pruning and do not need partners for pollination. But you need to remember that their ovary is very tender, and they love to bloom exactly on the eve of frost. Try covering the flowering branches of a mini tree in a pot at night - and train your calmness.

By the way, if you want to increase the yield of your mini fruit tree, try the following hack: when the flowers open, gently blot the pollen with a soft brush and rub it into the surrounding flower.

Have you tried growing fruit trees in tubs?

Fig Trees

Even if you are not a big fan of figs, we still recommend that you pay attention to these mini fruit trees in pots: their wide leaves exude a bright and very pleasant aroma.


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