How to plant a tangelo tree


Tangelo Citrus Trees for Sale – FastGrowingTrees.com

The Tangelo Tree is Sweetness Defined

Why Tangelo Trees?

Easy to grow in your garden or on the patio, the Tangelo Tree is a must-have for those who want their own mini orchard. And it’s a reliable producer that will give you tons of sweet, juicy fruit…all effortlessly.

Plus, its easy-to-peel fruit is a favorite snack. You’ll get this fresh, home-grown snack without hassle since our Tangelo adapts well to a variety of planting conditions to provide healthful, organic taste.

So, if you love tangerines and grapefruits, this tree is for you. Combining the sweet and refreshing tastes of both fruit, the Tangelo Tree offers distinctive taste with the convenience of being seedless. Not only that – as a hybrid between both fruits, they're also juicier and more flavorful.

Why Fast-Growing-Trees.com is Better

With its ability to fight off the pests and diseases that commonly plague most citrus fruit trees, growing your Tangelo Tree organically is easy and hassle-free. Just imagine how much money you'll save when you skip shopping at the organic market.

But the best part of all is that we’ve nurtured your Tangelo Tree, from planting to growing and shipping. Because we’ve put in the extra work at our nursery, you’ll get a proven performer in your landscape…and fresh fruit for years to come.

Get the sweet taste and benefits of our Tangelo today…get your own Tangelo Tree!

Planting & Care

1. Planting: Choose a location where your tree is going to get plenty of sunlight, around 6 to 8 hours of sun per day. They can tolerate some shade but thrive in full sun and well-drained soil.

When you're ready to plant your Tangelo, dig a hole twice as wide and just as deep as the root system. Place the tree in the hole and backfill your soil, and water for about five minutes. Mulching around the tree will help insulate the roots and keep your plant warm in the colder winter months as well.

If you're container planting, choose a pot slightly larger than the shipped container, with plenty of holes in the bottom to allow for drainage. Then, place your tree, backfill with balanced potting soil, and leave about an inch from the soil surface to the rim of the pot for easy watering.

Finally, place your tree in an area of your home, preferably a south-facing window, where it is going to get plenty of sunlight.

2. Watering: After watering about once or twice weekly, allow the top 2 to 3 inches of the soil to dry out completely before watering again.

For potted Tangelos, stick your index finger into the soil down to about 2 inches. If there is moisture present, hold off on watering until it feels drier at that depth. When you do water your Tangelo, stop once you see it escaping the drainage holes at the base of the pot.

3. Fertilizing: Feed your Tangelo Tree during the warmer spring and summer seasons with a citrus specific fertilizer, like the one included in our Citrus Care Kit, once every six weeks. During the fall and winter, fertilize once every 2 to 3 months. Once the tree has matured a bit, you can skip the cold season fertilization. Make sure to follow your fertilizer's application instructions.

4. Pruning: Make 45-degree angle cuts to remove dead or crossing limbs and also to thin out the tree to allow more light to flow between the branches. After the tree fruits, remove any dead wood and ventilate the center of the tree. Remove suckers as they form/grow from the base as well. Pruning can be done at any time of the year for the potted Tangelo and any time of year for the in-ground Tangelo, aside from winter.

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Tangelo Tree Care - How To Grow And Harvest Tangelos

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Tangelo is the hybrid tree that stole the show from its original parent species. A crossbreed between grapefruits and mandarins, the tangelo fruit is not your typical citrus. The fruit is easier to peel than oranges and has a tarty flavor that makes it ideal for lemonades, smoothies, tea, jam, or any dessert you can think of. Its zest has less of a bite than the lemon but more aromatic than the orange.

And like many citrus fruits, a tangelo is packed with vitamins, minerals, and electrolytes. The ripe fruit has vitamins A, B9, and C. It’s also a rich source of dietary fiber, magnesium, and potassium. So what’s there not to like about a fruit that has it all from a tangy taste to loads of nutrients? The real question should be, how to grow the tangelo tree in your garden? And the answer is right here. Read on to find out all you need to know about planting, caring for, and harvesting this hybrid citrus tree.

Tangelo Tree at a Glance

Although general wisdom dictates that you should approach hybrids with caution, that doesn’t apply to tangelo. Not just because the tangelo tree has been around for more than a century and has proved its hardiness and worth in different zones. But also because its juicy fruit just has no equal among the citrus family in terms of taste and flavors. 

The first tangelo tree came into existence in 1897 thanks to the work of botanist Dr. Walter T. Swingle down in Florida. A year later another botanist, Dr. Herbert J. Webber from Riverside, California also managed to grow a tangelo tree in 1898. They both used a mandarin and a grapefruit to produce this new cultivar which they called Citrus X tangelo.

Best suited for zones 8 and 11, tangelo trees look like any other orange tree. They grow to about 20 to 30 feet high and 25 feet across on average and are evergreen. The leaves are small, elongated, and have a pointed tip. They start light green then turn a pale green as they mature. 

Some tangelo cultivars are on the dwarfish side and can be grown in containers. But it’s the fruits that have a distinct shape and taste than your average oranges. They have a knob at the top where they are attached to the stem. Most cultivars are seedless and the pulp is as orange as the peel.

Tangelo Varieties

Of course, the work on developing new cultivars didn’t stop after the first tangelo tree produced its unique fruits. More tangelo varieties have been developed ever since and each has something to offer to your garden. From more dense foliage and shapely canopy to high resistance to diseases and sweeter flavors. Here are some varieties you can try in your garden.

  • Orlando: This special cultivar is the result of crossbreeding two grapefruit and mandarin cultivars. It has a much milder taste and flavor than other tangelos. The fruit is more the size of a grapefruit than an orange and is full of juices. You can use it to make juices, jam, and smoothies. The zest of the fruit goes well in most desserts and cakes.
  • Ugli: This cultivar accidentally happened on its own when a farmer in Jamaica found the tree with its bizarre-looking fruits growing on his farm in 1917. Using seeds and grafts of sour orange, he managed to improve the cultivar and develop it to the “ugli” fruit we know today. The fruits are small with light-green skin and apricot flesh. The pulp is buttery smooth, juicy, and has better flavors than grapefruits.
  • Minneola: A popular cultivar known for its tarty taste and prominent neck. The fruits are also larger than the average tangelo and average about 3 inches in diameter. As with other tangelos, this cultivar is also easy to peel although it has a few seeds. The skin is red-orange when mature and the flesh is bright orange.
  • Wekiwa: If you like your tangelo to have a unique color and taste, then this is the cultivar to grow. Known tartly as the “lavender gem”, the flesh of this tangelo is purplish and not as sweet as other cultivars. Some people have grown it in zone 7 with some success due to its tolerance to moderate temperatures.

How to Grow Tangelo

Since tangelo fruits are for the most part seedless, the best way to grow them is by propagating through a cutting or buying a small sapling. Your local nursery most likely will have plenty of tangelo varieties for sale if you’re living in zones 8 to 11. If not, you can always find a good nursery online that has your specific variety.  

  1. Pick a spot in your garden that gets at least 8 hours of sunlight during the growing season. Avoid unsheltered areas that get hammered by strong winds.
  2. Prepare the soil by removing any debris and weeds. Break the top 12 inches of the soil and mix in plenty of organic materials, aged mature, or homemade compost. Let the soil rest under the sun for a couple of weeks.
  3. Dig a hole in the soil about three times the diameter of the container the tangelo sapling came in and one and a half times its height. Fill it with water and let the soil absorb the water slowly.
  4. Cover the bottom of the hole with a 4-inch layer of soil.
  5. Ease the tangelo sapling out of the container and examine its roots. Untangle any roots and remove damaged ones.
  6. Place the sapling in the middle of the hole and spread its roots to fill up the hole. Make sure the top of the root ball stays a few inches above the line of the soil. 
  7. Fill the hole with half the soil you took out of it and water it again. This prevents air pockets from forming around the roots and damaging them. 
  8. After the soil has absorbed the water, fill the rest of the hole with the remaining soil.
  9. Cover the top of the root ball with sand to create a mound around the base of the sapling. 

Tangelo Care

If planting the tangelo sapling seems a little unorthodox, that’s because this is a cultivar first and foremost. Its growing needs are a little different from a species that has been around for thousands of years. And just as its unusual planting process, caring for tangelo is also somewhat different. At least until the tree establishes and becomes more independent and self-sufficient. 

Soil

Apart from picking a spot in the garden that gets plenty of sunlight, the soil needs to be treated and processed before you plant your sapling. Tangelo trees prefer loose, well-drained, and enriched soil. This gives them a good start and allows their robust root system to grow and spread quickly. So no matter what type of soil you have in your garden, you’ll need to dig up a large hole and mix that soil you dug up with sand and organic materials. Sand is also important to protect the base of the trunk from rot. After planting the sapling, build a mound of sand around its base. It will keep moisture and mulch away from the tree.

Water

After flooding the hole where you plant the young tangelo sapling twice, hold back watering to once a week. These citrus cultivars need about one inch of water a week which is equivalent to 16 gallons. Once they establish after the first year, you can cut down the water to about a half. Always factor in any rainfall and adjust your watering accordingly. During the spring and summer, don’t allow the soil to go completely dry since these cultivars have a low tolerance for drought. If the top three inches of the soil are dry, then you need to water the tree.

Fertilizer

As with other fruit trees, your tangelo cultivar draws plenty of nutrients out of the soil. After a couple of years, even the naturally rich soil becomes depleted. So you’ll need to apply organic compost, aged manure, and homemade fertilizers to keep the tree growing. The best time to feed the tree is in the early spring before the growing cycle. Remove any mulching from around the tree before you apply the fertilizer. Water the soil immediately after. If you prefer commercial fertilizers, then use special citrus formulas for the best results. 

Pruning

Mother nature wasn’t very generous with the tangelo tree. The tree’s canopy tends to grow everywhere with little regard for aesthetics. It falls on you to trim the tangelo’s foliage and make it look presentable. In the late winter or early spring, right before the first growth, you can take your pruning shears to the unruly branches of the tree. Your goal is to untangle the branches and improve air circulation inside of the canopy. This also allows more sunlight to flood the inner branches and prevent fungus and mold build-up. If you notice any offshoots growing near the base of the tree, remove them since they waste the tree’s precious resources.

Winter Protection

Although the tangelo tree can handle mild and even temperate temperatures, sharp drops in temperature in the evenings can prove to be problematic for them. If the fall and winter evenings get exceptionally cold and dive below 20 degrees Fahrenheit, then your tangelo needs some extra protection to survive the winter. A blanket around the trunk at night can protect it against the excessive cold. Secure the blanket with a few clothespins and remove it during the day. Don’t use tarp or plastic sheets since they have the same protection against cold weather as a raincoat in a snowstorm. If you grow the tangelo in a pot, move it indoors during the winter evenings.

Harvesting Tangelo

Tangelo ripens between September and December of each year. Luckily, it’s easy to tell when your tangelo fruits are ripe and ready for harvesting. By the time the fruit reaches its full size (around the same size as an orange), it starts to feel too heavy for its size. That’s a sign the juices are becoming sweet. As the skin turns from green to orange, it becomes soft and shiny. Some varieties go soft when ripe, while others remain firm.

The ripe fruits don’t store well and have a short shelf life. So it’s best to eat them fresh, make your juices, jam, smoothies, and store them in the fridge. You can keep the freshly harvested tangelos at room temperature for a couple of days before they begin to lose their flavors and tarty taste.  

 

Mandarin Tangelo Webber | Plant Nursery

Tangelo Webber is suitable for growing indoors. When growing, you should be guided by the basic recommendations for caring for a tree and an exotic tree will delight for many years.

What is tangerine Tangelo Webber

Created in 1897 in the USA by crossing grapefruit with tangerine. The name takes from its founder, American doctor Herbert Webber.

If the tree grows outdoors, it reaches a height of up to 7-8 meters, in the house - up to 2 m. Dark green glossy leaves are oval in shape and pointed at the ends. When flowering, the tree produces white flowers. Resistant to low temperatures.

Ripening period - 6-8 months. The fruit has the shape of a ball with an elongated end, reaches the size of an orange. Color is bright orange. The rind is thin, easy to peel and smooth to the touch. The pulp is sweet with a slight sourness, juicy, melting in the mouth. There are very few or no seeds at all, it all depends on the environment in which the tangerine grows.

How to take care of a tangelo Tangelo Webber

It is very important to follow the recommendations in caring for a tangerine tree, especially in the first 4 years.

The citrus tree comes from a subtropical climate, therefore it does not like extreme heat and cold, does not tolerate drafts, needs moderate watering, frequent feeding. Maintain the air temperature in summer - 25 degrees, in winter - 12 degrees.

For normal growth and subsequent fruiting in the first 3 years, the ovary and flowers are removed from the plant.

Interesting to read: Unshiu tangerine.

How to grow mandarin at home

Consider the main aspects of growing mandarin at home:

  • Soil selection . Mandarin grows in light soil with humus, sand, turf. Clay and peat are not suitable for growing plants. Brick chips, expanded clay are used as drainage.
  • Humidity and watering . In order for the mandarin to please with green foliage, it is necessary to take care of the condition of the soil, which should be slightly moistened. In this connection, watering should be regular, spraying frequent. When spraying, do not allow water to fall on the leaves. In the summer, once a month, arrange a warm shower for the tree. If the tree is waterlogged, the roots will rot; if it is too dry, the leaves will fall off.
  • Lighting in the house . The place for placing the tree should be chosen as much as possible illuminated. In summer, it is worth protecting citrus from direct sunlight; in winter, install a special lamp over the plant for illumination. In the summer season, you can put a tangerine on the street, while preventing drafts and choosing a calm place. In order for the crown to form evenly, the pot is gently rotated around its axis. This is due to the fact that the leaves are drawn to the light. But rotations should be carried out no more than 1 time per week and the angle should not be more than 10 degrees, since the citrus tree does not like permutations.
  • Transplant . The young tree is transplanted every year. When the tree begins to bear fruit, transplantation is carried out less frequently, once every 2-3 years. Before the procedure for 3 days and after transplantation for about 2 weeks, the plant does not need to be fed. The old tree is not transplanted, the top layer of soil is changed to a new one. When transplanting, the pot is replaced with a wider one, approximately increasing the diameter by 4 cm. You can not transplant a young tree immediately into a huge pot. Such a transplant will lead to rotting of the roots due to dehydration of the soil.
  • Cut . It is worth taking care of the crown. To form foliage when reaching a height of 30-40 cm, it is worth pinching the top. This will give the development of side shoots. Lateral shoots are also pinched, removing weak and damaged branches, pinching the tips of all shoots up to 4-5 leaves. With proper pruning, within 3-4 years, the tree will begin to bloom and bear fruit.
  • Top dressing . During the period of growth, flowering and fruiting, the plant is plentifully fed. In the summer - 1 time in 2 weeks. Fertilize after watering. As a fertilizer, an infusion of mullein with water (1:10), chicken manure (1:20) is suitable. During flowering and fruiting fertilize with phosphorus and potassium. In winter, citrus is not fed.
  • Temperature rating . In winter, before flowering, the tree requires rest: 10-12 degrees Celsius, rare watering. The dormant state allows the plant to gain strength and energy in order to bloom well in the future. In spring, the optimum temperature is 16-20 degrees, in summer - up to 25 degrees. The plant will take 6 months to mature. But the taste of the variety is delicate and sweet with a slight sourness.

Diseases and pests

Mandarin trees often become ill due to improper care or unfavorable habitat.

Possible diseases include:

  • Leaf chlorosis . With a lack of light, a lack of iron or nitrogen, a small pot, the leaves of the plant begin to turn yellow and turn pale.
  • Warty . First, the leaves are covered with spots of light yellow color, then with warts. Leaves wither, shoots curl and die. The fruits are covered with warts.
  • Gommoz . The bark begins to peel off, rot and die. Blisters turn into cracks. The bark is damaged from the neck to the roots.
  • Fungal diseases . They can be provoked by excessive watering, waterlogging, sudden changes in temperature and excess nitrogen. The plant reacts by dropping foliage, plaque or spotting. It is urgent to remove damaged leaves and treat the tree with an antifungal agent.
  • Mandarin pests . Mandarin pests include spider mites, aphids, scale insects, mealy mites, and flies. Every day, carefully inspect the plant to determine their presence. To eliminate pests, folk methods are used: an infusion of garlic, onion peel, or special preparations.

How to propagate this variety of mandarin

From the stone

Place a fresh ripe stone in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection. After planting in the ground no deeper than 1 cm, so that she had the strength to break through to the surface. We are waiting for 2 weeks .

Cuttings

Several cuttings are cut from a healthy fruit bearing tree. It should have 2-3 buds, the length of the shoot is about 10 cm. The best time is April. Rooting can be carried out in water or immediately in a pot, this process takes about 2-3 weeks.

For rooting in a pot before planting, the cutting is kept in a solution with a growth stimulator for 8-12 hours. The soil consists of garden soil and river sand. It should be well moistened with warm water. Several cuttings are planted in one pot, slightly tilted. To root better and faster, you can heat the pot. After the expiration of the period, a transplant is carried out in another pot.

How to buy

Quality seedling - a healthy beautiful tree in the future. At the same time, only proven nurseries with many years of experience and a good reputation can offer the desired variety. Buy a fruit tree immediately before planting in a pot. It should not be dirty or faded. There should be no wounds and cracks on the bark, the color is darker than the kidneys.

Pay attention to the root system of the seedling and the number of branches. It should be well developed, the roots slightly moist and flexible, with many branches. When pressed, the kidneys should not fall off.

If the seedling is sold in a container, the roots must cover the entire space.

Finish

The tangerine tree exudes exoticism and sun, and the room is filled with a pronounced citrus scent. For this alone, I want to grow an evergreen ornamental plant with orange fruits at home. Proper care will give good results in a few years, which will become the pride of all households.

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How to find the best planting site

Most trees will thrive in flat areas where moisture does not stagnate. If there are no such conditions, you must first level the places of future landings - add or remove a layer of soil and walk along the surface with a rammer. Drainage at the bottom of the planting pit will cope with waterlogging of the soil.

Place the trees on the south and southwest sides to provide adequate lighting. It is also important to keep a distance between seedlings - as they grow, they should not obscure each other and interfere with development. Therefore, keep in mind what size they will reach in the future, and take this into account when marking out plantings so as not to get dense jungle instead of a beautiful garden.

For example, vigorous apple and pear trees can reach a height of 5-6 meters, so they should be placed 4-6 meters apart. The height of undersized ones, as a rule, does not exceed 2-3 meters, and they can be planted at a distance of 1.5-3 meters. Plums, cherries, cherries, apricots and peaches need a distance of 3-4 meters.

At the same time, vigorous trees should be planted at a distance of at least 5 meters from residential buildings and 4 meters from the neighbor's fence. The distance for medium-sized people is at least 2 meters, for short people - at least 1 meter.

Think in advance where and what kind of trees you want to plant, and only then go for seedlings.

How to choose seedlings

For young trees, it is better to go to reliable sellers or specialized nurseries, which guarantee good quality seedlings and their conformity to the variety.

It is better to choose the so-called zoned varieties: they are specially bred taking into account the climate in different regions. For example, trees suitable for cultivation in the south are unlikely to overwinter in the central zone.

The optimal age of the seedling is from one to three years. Of course, older plants look prettier, and it seems that they will bear fruit faster. But the older the tree, the larger its root system. This means that it will suffer more from digging and transplanting to a permanent place, and this will not have the best effect on survival.

Seedlings can be sold with a closed and open root system. In the first case, they will be planted in pots or containers with soil. The roots of such trees are protected and continue to develop, so after landing in a permanent place, the tree will take root faster. Another plus is that such trees can be planted during the entire growing season.

Seedlings with an open root system lack these advantages. When choosing them, it is necessary to ensure that the roots are protected from drying out: they are covered with wet sawdust or are in a container with a special clay mash. The buds of such trees should be alive, but dormant.

Whichever root system you choose, pay attention to the condition of the trunk and root collar, where the roots directly connect to the trunk. They should not have mechanical damage, dark spots, traces of fungal diseases and rot.

Image: Garden Guide / YouTube

When to Plant a Tree

Close-rooted trees can be planted from early spring to late autumn, from April to October. In the spring, you have to wait until the snow melts, and the temperature stays above 0 degrees. In summer, avoid too dry and hot weather. But in the fall, you need to have time before frost.

Bare-rooted trees should preferably be planted in a dormant state, in early spring or late autumn, when the temperature does not fall below 0 degrees. At this time, the kidneys are asleep.

When choosing a time, be guided by the climate in your area. In the south, it is preferable to plant trees in autumn: the heat here can come already in early spring, and therefore young seedlings can get sunburned before they have time to fully take root. In the central regions, you can choose both seasons due to the temperate climate. But in the north, spring tree planting will be the best option - this way you will exclude the death of a fragile seedling from severe winter frosts.

In addition, it is important to remember that for planting in late autumn, only winter-hardy varieties should be selected. Otherwise, the tree runs the risk of freezing before it begins to take root.

How to store seedlings before planting

Seedlings with a closed root system do not require special preparation. If you do not have time to plant them in the fall, in winter they can be stored in the basement or on a glazed balcony at a temperature of 0 to 4 degrees Celsius.

With seedlings with an open root system, things are a little more complicated. If you buy them in late spring or summer, when the buds are already budding, plant the trees as soon as possible, rather than trying to save until autumn: this way they are more likely to survive. If you buy them in the fall and plant only in the spring, place the roots in plastic bags with damp peat or sand and send them to winter storage. All in the same basement or on a glazed balcony.

How to prepare a planting hole

For spring planting, it is better (but not necessary) to prepare a hole in the fall. So the soil has time to settle, and the nutrients are evenly distributed. For autumn gardening, you can prepare a hole at any time, starting in spring, but not less than a month before the planned planting of a tree in the ground.

Dig a hole of the right size

Image: Igor Bilevich / YouTube

The diameter of the planting hole should be twice the diameter of the root system of the seedling, and the depth should be three times the length of the roots. When digging, you need to lay off the upper, fertile, layer of soil on one side, and the lower one on the other.

Make a drainage layer

Shot: Igor Bilevich / YouTube

This is necessary if groundwater is high on the site - in such cases it is often flooded in early spring. Expanded clay, broken brick or crushed stone is suitable for drainage. At the bottom of the pit, you need to put at least 10 cm of material. This will protect the roots of the seedling from rotting.

Fill in fertile soil

Shot: Igor Bilevich / YouTube

Mix the excavated topsoil in equal proportions with peat, compost or humus. If the soil in the area is clayey, you can add another part of the sand. For additional nutrition, add 50 g of wood ash and 15–20 g of nitroammophoska. Pour all the components together with the soil to the bottom of the pit, mix well again and pour plenty of water.

Wait for the ground to settle

This will take at least 14 days, or even better, wait a month. By this time, the soil will have time to settle down enough, and the planted tree will subsequently not go deep into the ground after rains and watering.

How to plant a tree

After the soil in the hole has settled, slightly loosen the soil at the bottom of the hole and start planting the seedling.

Place the tree in the hole

Image: Igor Bilevich / YouTube

The root collar should be flush with the ground. If it is lower, there is a risk of rotting and even death of the tree.

In order not to make a mistake, you can put a long board or stick on top of the pit. If the neck is lower, add fertile soil to the bottom of the pit, if higher, dig out unnecessary soil.

Gently straighten the roots of the tree so that they point to the sides, not up. Sprinkle them with earth, slightly compacting the soil around the trunk.

Install the stake

Image: Hitsad TV / YouTube

Carefully drive a 1.5-2 m stake into the soil so that it is stable enough, and tie the trunk to it. This will give the tree the support it needs until it gets stronger.

Water the seedling

Image: Hitsad TV / YouTube

Make a watering hole 5 cm deep, 20-30 cm in diameter, around the trunk by removing the soil from the center to the edges with a hoe or small spatula. Gently pour plain water into the hole in small portions, allowing it to soak. For a young tree, two buckets of 10 liters will be enough.

Mulch the trunk circle

Shot: Alexander Kvasha / YouTube

This technique will prevent the soil from drying out and will not allow weeds to germinate. Peat, compost, dry leaves, wood chips or rotted sawdust are suitable as mulch. They need to be poured in a layer of 3-5 cm around the trunk along the diameter of the landing pit.


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