How to plant trees in your yard


How to Plant Trees in 5 Easy Steps

Planting trees in the backyard is a great way to add beauty, shade and privacy to any landscape. But if done incorrectly, your new greenery might not make it through the winter. That’s why the best way to plant a tree is to do it right the first time.

If you’re not sure how to plant trees correctly, don’t worry. Our step-by-step guide, complete with tree planting tips from the Arbor Day Foundation and other urban forestry experts, will show you how it’s done.


How to Plant a Tree Step by Step


Tree Planting Tools and Materials

  • Shovel
  • Trowel
  • Pruning shears
  • Mulch
  • Tree stakes (optional)

1. Find the Right Spot

One of the most important tree planting tips is to create a solid foundation for your new foliage. To find the best spot for your tree to grow and thrive, you’ll want to know a few things about your tree first.

The City of Pella, Iowa recently rolled out a 2018 Tree Rebate program to encourage urban tree planting.  We asked Community Services Director Jeanette Vaughan about things to keep in mind when choosing a spot for a tree:

Tree Planting Tips:
Know Your Tree’s Requirements

Sunlight: Sunlight helps trees photosynthesize. Some trees need full sunlight (more than six hours a day), while others can live with less. Find a spot that provides enough light for your tree.

Moisture: To keep a tree’s roots healthy, it’s important to plant them in an area with the right moisture levels. If your tree needs drier soil, find a spot in your yard that’s well drained. If it prefers soil that’s wetter, place it in the lowest spot of your yard, where rainwater collects.

Height: “Trees GROW,” says Vaughan. “Keep in mind the mature size of the tree when picking a location for planting. Stay away from power lines and underground utilities.”

Canopy: The canopy is the top layer of leafy cover on your tree. Some tree’s canopies can grow to be very wide, so make sure your tree has room to grow up and out.

Root Spread: A tree’s roots can be large and powerful. They can even cause foundation damage if planted too closely to your home. “Keep your tree away from the edges of sidewalks or driveways so that the roots do not heave your concrete or asphalt,” says Vaughan. “Roots also like to grow into water and sewer lines so steer clear of those areas as well.”

Jeanette Vaughan | City of Pella, Iowa


Additionally, you’ll need to decide whether you’ll be planting bare-root trees or planting container trees.

We asked the experts at the Arbor Day Foundation to explain the pros and cons of each:

Bare-Root Trees
Pros Cons
  • Less expensive
  • Easier to package and ship
  • Better for bulk plantings
  • Less digging required
  • Sensitive to handling (drying of roots)
  • Limited seasonal availability
  • Must be planted immediately

Container Trees
Pros Cons
  • Available longer throughout the year
  • Soil provides protection for roots
  • Larger sizes available
  • Wide species palette available
  • More expensive
  • Heavier, harder to transport
  • Needs larger hole
  • More sensitive to planting depth
  • Often have poor root structures
  • Can require more care after planting

Pete Smith | Arbor Day Foundation


2.

Dig the Hole

When it comes to the perfect tree planting hole: “Wider is better, deeper is not!” says Smith.

Digging For Bare-Root Trees: Your hole should be large enough for its roots, but should not be deeper than the graft union. The graft union is the large notch on the trunk near the base of the tree – it’s the point where your tree was grafted onto another plant’s rootstock.

Digging For Container Trees: The hole needs to be wide enough to allow the roots to grow, but shallow enough to let oxygen and sunlight to reach the tree’s base.

To find the perfect depth for your container tree, measure the root ball, says Bryan Spencer. Spencer is the Parks & Forestry Superintendent of Oconomowoc, Wisconsin, a city that has been nationally recognized as a Tree City USA Community by the Arbor Day Foundation since 1993.

Tree Planting Tips:
Measure the Root Ball to Find the Right Depth

“Make the hole two to three times wider than the size of the ball. Find the root flare – the place where your tree begins to widen at the base – and measure from there to the bottom of the ball. That should be the depth of your hole, minus about an inch to allow for watering and settling. Lay a shovel handle over the hole to make sure the ground hits the tree below the root flare.”

Bryan Spencer | Oconomowoc Forestry Division


If you’re in the middle of a landscaping overhaul, there are many ways to dispose of the bramble. Find the best yard waste disposal solution for your backyard makeover.


3. Prepare the Roots

The health of your tree’s roots will determine the health of your tree down the line, so this step is key for knowing how to plant trees successfully.

Root Prep for Planting Container Trees: Loosen the root ball to promote strong growth after planting. If the roots are tightly coiled around each other, prune the bottom of the root ball until they are free. This will prevent circling roots, which can starve the tree of water and important nutrients.

Root Prep for Planting Bare-Root Trees: Soak the roots in water for one to two hours before planting. If the roots are extremely dry, soak them overnight. Do not soak them for longer than 12 hours. Prune the roots just before planting to encourage new growth.

Tree Planting Tips:
Don’t Carry Container Trees by the Trunk

Handle container trees carefully by the root ball. If you jostle the trunk around, you could break up the root ball. Once the root ball is broken up, it exposes the roots to air which can dry out the tree and create stability issues.”

Bryan Spencer | Oconomowoc Forestry Division


4. Plant Your Tree

Now it’s time for the main event – planting your tree.

Before filling in the soil, make sure the tree is completely straight. Have a friend walk around while you hold the tree in place to ensure it isn’t leaning to one side.

How to Plant Container Trees:

  1. Place the root ball into the hole.
  2. Make sure the trunk flare – where your tree begins to widen at the base – is above ground.
  3. If your hole is too deep, partially fill it in until your tree sits at the right height.
  4. Firmly but gently fill in the soil around the root ball.

How to Plant Bare-Root Trees:

  1. Using soil from the hole, build a mound in the center for your bare-root tree to sit on.
  2. Position the roots on top of the mound.
  3. Dump soil on top of the roots, leaving no air pockets.
  4. Firmly but gently fill in the remaining soil, keeping the graft union uncovered.

Tree Planting Tips:
Common Tree Planting Mistakes

We asked the Arbor Day Foundation for a list of common mistakes made while planting trees:

Planting the Root Ball Too Deep: The first tree roots should be visible at ground line.

Adding Fertilizer: Your new tree won’t want to expand its roots beyond the rich soil, which can stunt its growth. “Just use the soil from the hole,” says Smith.

Not Watering Right Away: The planting process is a stressful ordeal for a new tree; be sure to water it immediately after planting.

Not Protecting the Trunk: Remove all grass near the trunk and add mulch to protect it from mowers and string trimmers.

Pete Smith | Arbor Day Foundation


5. Mulch and Water Your Tree

Once you’ve filled in your soil, it’s time to give your tree a little TLC.

Create a ring of mulch around, but not over, the base of your tree. “So many homeowners create a ‘volcano’ of mulch around the trunk, but this can harm the tree down the line,” says Spencer.

“Create a donut of mulch around the tree instead.”

Water your tree generously inside the mulch ring. This will concentrate the water near the base of the tree and help release the mulch’s nutrients into the soil. Watering your new tree thoroughly can also remove air pockets that might have occurred during the planting process.

Tree Planting Tips:
Don’t Stake Your Tree Down Unless Necessary

“Generally, you don’t need to stake trees. But if you do, do not stake it for longer than one year. If you do, it won’t allow your tree to develop a flexible trunk. This can create a weakness point in the trunk which can cause it to snap during high winds.”

Bryan Spencer | Oconomowoc Forestry Division


Tree Planting Guide: Frequently Asked Questions

How much does it cost to plant a tree?

Planting a tree is a fairly inexpensive backyard project. Most of the costs are in buying the tree itself, which can range from as low as $20 to $100 or more, depending on the tree and the nursery you purchase from.

Tree maintenance and pruning can be expensive if your tree ends up becoming too large for its location or is not suited for your local climate. To keep maintenance costs low, purchase a tree that will do well without much extra help. “The best advice for beginners is to choose trees that are native to the area in which they live,” says Vaughan.

“Check with your local Department of Natural Resources, as they typically have tree lists available that can help folks pick the best tree for their area.”

What’s the best time to plant container trees?

Container trees should be planted in the spring or fall, well before summer or winter temperatures set in. This allows your tree’s roots to take hold without the stress of seasonal highs and lows taking their toll.

What’s the best time to plant bare-root trees?

Early spring or late fall. Bare-root trees must be planted while dormant after their leaves drop and before their buds sprout. Because bare-root trees have no soil to protect their roots, it’s important to plant them soon after receiving them. It’s a good idea to have your location picked and the hole dug before your tree arrives.

How often should I water my new tree?

Newly planted trees should be watered once a day for the first two to three weeks, and then once a week for the next year. Usually, trees need about 10 gallons of water per inch of trunk diameter. So, if your tree’s trunk is 2 inches around, it will need about 20 gallons of water per day.

Since a standard garden hose pushes about 17 gallons of water per minute, you will need to water your tree, using no attachments, for just over a minute to hit its daily 20-gallon minimum.

How do you grow a tree from a seed?

Growing a tree from a seed is doable, but it’s a little more complicated than you might think. Most seeds are dormant and need to be stratified before being planted. This means that they must spend time in cold, but not freezing, temperatures in order to reach their growth stage.

There are two ways to plant a tree from a seed: the natural method or assisted germination.

The Natural Method: Sow seeds in late autumn, typically about one inch deep in the soil. This allows the seeds to undergo the stratification process naturally during the cold winter months.

Assisted Germination: Seeds must be refrigerated to mimic the effect of a cold winter. Place your seeds in a sealed plastic bag with a moist paper towel and place it in the refrigerator at around 33 to 38 degrees Fahrenheit for a period of one to three months – the length of time will depend on your tree species.

Once stratification is complete, your seeds can be planted and grown wherever you’d like in your backyard. For a more in-depth tree planting guide for this method, check out these tips from the experts at Tree Help for how to plant a tree from a seed.


Planting Trees: The Greenest Home Improvement of All

There is no greener home improvement project than planting a tree. From providing homes and shade to helpful local wildlife to cleansing the air around them, the list of benefits trees provide is long.

So if you’re looking for a way to add beauty and value to your home while giving back to Mother Nature, it’s time to start digging.


Looking for tips on how to maintain your new foliage and the rest of your yard? Check out How to Create a Beautiful Backyard. 

Finished planting your new tree? Post a picture in the comments!

How to Plant A Tree the Right Way - 7 Steps for Getting it Right Every Time

With a little luck and good timing, sometimes simply sticking a tree in the ground and walking away can be enough for it to survive. But knowing how to plant a tree the right way, will ensure success every time. In my book, there are 7 steps for planting success which I share below.

Suffice it to say, I’ve learned these all-important st eps mostly by trial and error. It’s always the best way to learn, especially when it comes to gardening.

Trees have been described as the lungs of the earth for good reason. Without them, there would be no life on this planet. That’s reason enough to plant as many as we can. But when you learn just how important they are for so many reasons, you begin to understand my passion for trees and why we need more.

That’s led to a lifelong crusade to encourage people to plant more trees. Or even one. So it only stands to reason how thrilled I was to team up with Lands’ End recently to encourage everyone to #PlantATree in celebration of Earth Day this year.

So whether this is your first tree planting, or you’ve planted a forest by now, we’re always learning. Knowing how to plant a tree the right way — especially now, considering such unprecedented climate conditions — will ensure your efforts will not be in vain.

To give you the whole story, check out this video we created to walk you through how to plant a tree the right way, along with the 7-steps for getting it right every time.

The Best Time to Plant a Tree

Trees (and shrubs) can be planted any time of the year that you can dig the proper planting hole. However, there are better times than others for multiple reasons.

Suffice it to say, the more time you can put between when you plant a tree, and the arrival of summer, the better. That makes fall the very best time of year to relocate trees and shrubs or plant new ones. Early spring is a popular time as well.

An easy way to know if your hole is at the right depth is to take your shovel handle and lay it across the grade. The top of the root ball or tree flare should be at or above the handle level.

How to plant a tree the right way – follow these seven important steps:

-1. Prepare the proper planting hole. When preparing any hole for planting, make it three times wider than the current root mass but never deeper than the plant was growing in its previous environment.

An even better guide with trees is to look for the flare of the trunk near the soil level. Don’t place the tree in the planting hole so deep that any part of that flare is covered with soil. The truth is, even nurseries sometimes put plants in containers too deeply. There have been many times where I’ve actually had to pull away soil to find the base of the trunk flare and true surface roots. Make a habit of checking this.

-2. Plant high. I go even one step further by placing trees and shrubs in their new environment with up to 25% of the root ball higher than the surrounding soil level. I then taper soil up to cover all the roots and add a generous layer of mulch above that. Newly disturbed soil tends to settle and shrubs and trees planted at grade can quickly settle below grade and succumb to root rot or disease.

In my book, it’s always better to plant a tree or shrub slightly high and allow the area to drain away rather than for a plant to sit in a bowl and collect excess water.

Don’t be afraid to break up the roots of a pot plant tree or plant to free them of their circular growth pattern. In fact, you must. Failure to do so now (your last chance) can doom your plant to lackluster performance at best.

-3. Inspect the roots and disturb when necessary. Once the plant is out of its container, look at the roots. If they are densely bound in a circular pattern or have started growing in the shape of the container (even slightly), break up the pattern.

It’s vitally important to stop this pattern now. The biggest mistake you can make at this point is to place a rootbound plant into the ground as is. Unless you break up the pattern, you’ve likely sentenced the plant to a slow death. At a minimum, it will likely never establish or reach a fraction of its potential.

Don’t worry about hurting the roots or losing soil as you break the roots apart or even cut some away. Better to give them a fresh start than allow the constrictive pattern to only get worse below ground. While you don’t want to be any rougher than necessary, do what you must to arrest the pattern.

I often scratch my fingers across the sides and bottom of the root mass in mild cases. In more severe situations, I’ll slice up the roots vertically with a pruning saw, hack off the bottom inch or so, and or pull apart the root mass to clearly create new opportunities for non-circular new root development.

Unless you can dig a hole large enough for the eventual mature root zone and amend the entire area, simply backfill with the existing native soil.

-4. Don’t amend the soil. Contrary to traditional planting methods, contemporary research indicates that you should not amend the hole with additional organic material (unless you intend to amend the entire area where roots will eventually grow). Roots growing in amended soil rarely venture into harder native soil. The long-term affect is a smaller root system, reduced growth and a less hardy plant.

Instead, simply break up the clumps in existing soil, remove the rocks and backfill. Studies show plant roots growing in only the native soil actually did a better job at establishing and expanding beyond the original hole.

I find the best and easiest way to eliminate air pockets during planting is to blast the backfilled soil with a stiff stream of water after refilling the hole about half way. Then again after all the soil has been added back.

-5. Eliminate air pockets. While you could lightly tamp or hand-pack the soil around the plant roots to ensure good soil-to-root contact, I prefer to add a stiff spray of water to the hole after backfilling half way. Not only does it provide needed moisture but the water also helps eliminate air pockets that could otherwise result in dead roots or worse (without compacting the soil too much). Finally, water again gently but thoroughly once all the soil is in place.

-6. Add mulch. Starting about two inches from the trunk (leave this area exposed), place roughly two inches of organic matter such as shredded leaves, or ground bark or nuggets around the plant, at least out to the drip line. Further is better. Mulch helps retain much-needed moisture and helps keep roots cooler near the surface—a very important requirement for newly installed plants.

Perhaps the most important step during the planting process is to keep up with the watering until your plant is fully established. That can take longer than you think. Soaker hoses or drip irrigation on automatic times makes this an easy process.

-7. Water Properly Until Established. The most important job you will have after planting is to keep plants and trees well watered until established. This can take weeks to months, to even a year or more in some cases. But don’t worry. You can put this part of the process on auto-pilot. (I’ll tell you how below.)

The key to proper watering and establishment is slow and deep irrigation. It’s not practical to do that by hand. The only way to establish trees properly through irrigation is with soaker hoses or drip irrigation.

The slow and deep irrigation allows the soil around the roots to saturate, so the roots have time to absorb the moisture, while avoiding excess runoff. Short, manual blasts of water from an overhead hose or sprinkler system simply don’t come close to providing the same effectiveness for water delivery.

I water newly planted trees every day for about the first week. For the next two weeks, I ease off to about every other day. Then gradually ease back from there.

However, there’s a fine line between watering enough and watering too much—especially with large trees that arrive with root balls wrapped in burlap. These trees have lost all their feeder roots when dug from the ground. Providing adequate water is critical to their survival and establishment.

That said, I’ve killed more than one tree like this by overwatering. Even if you prepare a large planting hole, when drainage is poor, the root ball may be sitting in water and literally drown. There’s no easy way to know how wet the soil is deeper into the planting hole.

The best advice I can offer is to pay close attention to how the tree responds (and all your plants for that matter). While it’s common for them to lose up to half their leaves to transplant stress (a normal part of the process), more can indicate a potential problem.

If you sense the tree is responding poorly, and you are watering consistently, you’re likely over-watering. If the leaves are turning brown, drying up, and falling off, and the soil appears dry, water more.

To add to the challenge, soil that appears dry at the top may be very wet a few inches down. And the opposite is true as well. All the more reason it is important to apply your detective skills based on observation and knowing how much or little you’ve been watering.

In the first few weeks, soil that is moist but not soggy is your target range. And depending on what you’re using to deliver the water will affect how long you need irrigate per session. So there’s no simple answer.

Put Watering on Auto-pilot

One of the best time-savers you can find to lighten the load and put your irrigation duties on auto-pilot is to use soaker hoses and/or drip irrigation combined with portable battery-operated timers. I cannot stress the importance and time-saving benefits enough!

Fertilizing

If you plant to fertilize, I don’t suggest doing so until you know your trees or shrubs have taken to their new environment through successful establishment.

All energy should be concentrated on root development first. Adopt the walk-before-you-run approach. But even then, I still like to play it safe by using a slow-release, non-burning organic fertilizer that won’t over-tax my plants.

While all the above steps are essential, your active engagement in monitoring newly planted trees for signs of distress over time will be the ultimate deciding factor in your tree planting success. Make any necessary adjustments in real-time, and you can likely reverse a potentially downward spiral into a tree that will live a happy and very long life.

Please join me this Earth Day and let’s all #PlantATree.

About Joe Lamp'l

Joe Lamp'l is the Host and Executive Producer of the award winning PBS television series Growing A Greener World. Off camera, Joe dedicates his time to promoting sustainability through his popular books, blog, podcast series, and nationally syndicated newspaper columns. Follow Joe on Twitter

How to plant a tree in the yard? Ekaterina Tamulionis answers readers' questions

Photo: Kirill Zhuravok

Residents of the district often turn to the newspaper and ask them to tell them how to plant a tree or an ornamental bush in their yard, on their native street, in the square near their house. Here is a letter that came from the Prospekt Vernadsky district.

“I want to make the lawn under the window beautiful by decorating it with lilac bushes,” a resident of st. Lobachevsky Elena Irteneva, - I heard that it is necessary to coordinate all plantings with the Department of Nature Management and Environmental Protection of the city of Moscow. Is it so? And why is it necessary to inform the Department when I am going to plant only four lilac bushes?

Ekaterina Tamulenis , Leading Engineer of the Improvement Department of the State Budgetary Institution “Housing of the Vernadsky Prospekt District”, answers questions from readers .

- All green spaces growing in the adjacent territory are inventoried by the Department of Nature Management and Environmental Protection of the city of Moscow (hereinafter referred to as the Department) and entered in the territory passport. Each tree and bush has its own serial number and characteristics (diameter, height, age and condition). The Department annually updates these plants in the special program "Register of Green Spaces". When new trees or shrubs are planted, they are added to the passport indicating the program according to which the planting was carried out. And trees are removed from the passport indicating the reason, for example, cutting down an emergency tree on a logging ticket.

How to take part in gardening?

Residents must submit applications and requests regarding planting trees, shrubs in the yard or on the street to the improvement department of their district state budgetary institution "Zhilischnik". The specialists of this organization go to the place where landscaping is planned, communicate with local residents, being interested in what kind of trees and shrubs they want to see next to the house, draw a diagram of future plantings and send it to the Department of Nature Management and Environmental Protection of the city of Moscow. Then the scheme is sent for approval to the city department of underground structures, whose employees compare the places of the proposed landings on the plan with the geo-base, on which the existing underground communications are plotted at the specified landscaping address.

About safety and quality

It is impossible to plant trees and shrubs on communications, firstly, it is dangerous, for example, in the Vernadsky Prospekt area, gas pipes pass underground, and secondly, it is not rational - during excavations, when repair work on the tracks, these plantings are removed.

Planting trees and shrubs according to city programs is carried out only by the Department of Nature Management and Environmental Protection of the City of Moscow. Its specialists offer for planting species of trees and shrubs that will grow well in our climate, the age of the plants is 3-5 years, they take root easily and quickly grow. In addition, dendrologists take into account the norms of the distance at which trees and shrubs can be planted so that in the future they do not interfere with each other's growth. The proposals of the residents, of course, are accepted, considered, the question of the breed composition is discussed with them.

But the most important thing is that trees and shrubs for landscaping the streets and courtyards of the city are brought only from trusted nurseries, a phytosanitary passport is issued for each plant, which indicates that the plant is of high quality - healthy. Some landscaping enthusiasts dig up trees and shrubs from the forest, bring them from country cottages and plant them in their backyard. But where is the guarantee that this or that plant does not get sick and will not infect existing green spaces?! Chestnuts grew in Moscow, they grew beautifully, until someone brought and planted a diseased chestnut. Gradually, all the chestnuts of the city were struck by one infection - “rust” covered the leaves of the trees and temporarily stopped planting chestnuts. Therefore, unauthorized landings are prohibited by a decree of the Moscow Government.

Trends of the time

- Ekaterina Viktorovna, how many trees and shrubs are there in the Vernadsky Prospekt area today, what species do the residents prefer and what is planned to be planted this year?

- In the territory under the jurisdiction of the State Budgetary Institution "Housing of the Prospekt Vernadsky District", grow: 30,300 trees and 41,039 shrubs. Under the Million Trees program, this autumn we plan to plant: lindens, mountain ash, pines, Norway maples - a total of 18 trees and 1080 shrubs - spirea, lilac, cotoneaster bird cherry and thuja. Under the Living Fence program, we will plant 9 more000 shrubs. Today, “green fences” are in trend, they perfectly replace iron ones, besides they look beautiful, they can be given any shape - from a staircase to a wave. In addition to the universal, unpretentious, well-tolerating pruning and fast-growing cotoneaster, turf and arborvitae are suitable for hedges.

Top popularity

- Residents of the Prospect Vernadsky district are very fond of maple, birch, mountain ash, willow, and we plant these trees at their request. Of the shrubs are popular: hawthorn, vesicle, barberry, dog rose, spirea, mock orange. We try to diversify our green fund, if a shrub grows, for example, with white inflorescences, then we add bright colors and plant rocks with red flowers. Planting of annual flowering plants will soon begin along the central roads of the region, in particular on Leninsky Prospekt, Vernadsky Prospekt and Udaltsova Street. Spring tulips have been planted in flower beds since autumn, after they bloom, a multi-colored carpet of petunia, begonia, salvia, tagetis will appear on the flower beds.

- How often are green areas watered in summer?

After the winter, we sprinkled trees and shrubs, washed the dirt off the branches and trunks. Usually the trees have enough natural watering, but if the summer is hot, then we additionally water the trees. We regularly water the shrubs and constantly water the flower beds.

-- Rita Dolmatova


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How to plant a tree in your yard and not get a fine - The Village Belarus

If a resident of a high-rise building wants to plant a tree or a bush in his yard, he will have to face a lot of legislative norms: from fire regulations to the conditions for planting light-loving species. The Village Belarus learned what to do to admire the birches and mountain ash from the window.


Anzhelika Puzankova

Head of the service for the improvement and maintenance of green facilities, PKUP "Minskzelenstroy"

The first step is to contact (verbally or in writing) the balance holder of your territory - the service organization. Those, in turn, will coordinate the application with the department of architecture and urban planning of the district. After all, it is necessary that construction is not planned at the landing site, underground communications are not laid, the standard landing distances are observed and the fire passage is not passed.

There are no restrictions on the range of planting for intra-quarter objects. The only thing is that shrubs and trees with thorns, thorns, poisonous berries cannot be planted near playgrounds, on the territories of children's institutions, schools. And so, please, you can plant everything that a person likes - mountain ash, ash, maple, linden.

Many say that poplar should not be planted in the city. I don't agree with this. Now crops have been bred that do not produce dust. There is the same Chinese poplar, pyramidal in shape, which does not fluff - that is, it does not give an effect when everything is covered with white fluff. And poplar itself is a fast-growing breed, and at the same time it has a high gas-purifying ability.

It is also important to maintain the necessary distance from the windows. Because you can plant a small seedling, say, two meters from the house. And in five years, it will grow into a large tree, block the light on the first floor, and insolation will be disturbed. Then this issue will be referred to the commission for consideration, and it will be forced to demolish the tree. It cannot be transplanted - it will have to be cut off. All this must be taken into account.

Planting in intra-quarter facilities is regulated, among other things, by the Law of the Republic of Belarus “On the Flora” and the Resolution of the Council of Ministers “On Certain Issues of Handling Flora Objects”, which regulates when green spaces can be removed - for example, if trees with a strong root system destroy communications or foundations buildings. That is why it is worth observing the standard landing distances.

It is better to foresee everything at once. No wonder they say: "Measure seven times, cut once." A tree is a living organism, and it is undesirable to transplant it five times from place to place. It is better to plant once, so that it grows there.


If a city dweller wants to plant a tree in his yard, he will have to apply in writing or orally to the housing and communal services authorities (ZHES and ZHREO) or an association of owners. Otherwise, during an independent landing, he faces a fine for violating the rules for maintaining settlements - up to 25 basic units. Illegal transplantation of seedlings entails a fine of 5 to 50 base.

The issues of planting trees along city roads, as well as in the parks and squares of Minsk, are regulated by the UE "Minskzelenstroy", more precisely, its regional divisions. After agreeing on the proposal, the applicant will be notified of the decision and a landing site will be determined.

Since trees and shrubs planted near houses should not block the light, according to general construction standards, the distance from buildings and structures to trees should be 5 meters, to shrubs - 1.5 meters. True, this applies only to trees with a crown with a diameter of not more than 5 meters. The larger the crown, the greater the length.

As for the distance between the trees themselves, for light-loving species it is at least 3 meters, for shade-tolerant - 2.5 meters. Shrubs up to a meter should be planted at a distance of 0.4 meters, up to two meters - 0.


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