How to protect trees from sudden freeze

7 Ways to Protect Your Plants From a Sudden Frost


An unexpected freeze in spring or fall can quickly devastate your garden.

Early in the growing season, it is especially destructive for tender seedlings that are too fragile to survive sudden dips in temperature.

Even in autumn, when we’re trying to get as much food harvested as possible, it can force more established plants to become dormant and non-productive.

What is Frost?

Frost is defined as a thin layer of ice that forms when water vapor changes from a gas to a solid as it is exposed to temperatures below the freezing point.

Frost injures plants when water in the plant cells turn into ice crystals, which disrupts the movement of fluids and damages plant tissues.

A light frost of between 28°F to 32°F won’t wreak as much havoc on plants as a hard frost below 28°F will.

It’s important to note that some veggies actually taste better after a frost. Here’s ten that do.

When to Expect Frost?

While keeping an eye on the weather forecast goes hand in hand with gardening, there are a few environmental conditions that will typically lead to a frost.

Cloudy nights help insulate the earth from sudden swings in temperature, but clear skies have a cooling effect that allows heat to escape into the atmosphere.

Calm conditions with little wind are more likely to reach a freezing point since very low air movement means warmer currents are not being distributed over the ground.

Clearly temperature is a major factor for frost, especially when there is moisture in the air (during foggy conditions or when dew is formed overnight) which promotes ice crystal formation.

How to Protect Your Plants from Frost

Frost may be deadly to our garden crops, but practicing a bit of vigilance and having some supplies at the ready can make a huge difference in protecting your delicate plants from the cold.


Bring Potted Plants Inside

When a frost is in the forecast, wait until dusk and move your potted plants and hanging baskets indoors.

Plants situated in containers are more prone to frost damage since they won’t benefit at all from the insulating powers of the earth, like in-ground plants would.

Potted plants are much more susceptible to root damage in colder temperatures.

Choose a place that isn’t too warm – as sudden changes in temperature can shock plants – such as a spot in your garage, shed, or basement.

Inspect plants thoroughly for pests and disease before bringing them inside your home. Keep plants isolated from your houseplants to prevent the potential spread of insects.

Once the risk of frost has passed, haul all your plants back outside first thing in the morning.


Water Plants in the Afternoon

It may seem counterintuitive but keeping the soil moist can help protect plants from the cold.

Moist soil has an insulating effect, which radiates heat upward come nightfall.

When watering plants before a cold snap, be sure to do it in the midday when temperatures are still somewhat warm.


Add a Thick Layer of Mulch

Just like slipping on a sweater when it’s chilly, adding a layer of mulch to your garden beds will help protect the soil from sudden swings in temperature.

Use straw, wood chips, leaf mold, or even just a heap of leaves to provide crucial insulation for the plants’ root systems below ground. Mulch heavily, to a depth between 3 to 6 inches, to create a good barrier.

Leave an inch or two opening around the central stalk so that the warmth of the soil can travel up through the plant.

Although mulching your garden beds is one of the best things you can do to keep things low maintenance, you’ll want to pull some of this protective mulch away when the weather warms up.


Cover Up Individual Plants with a Cloche

A cloche is a bell shaped cover made from plastic or glass that helps keep smaller plants warm and cosy in cold weather.

You can purchase plastic garden cloches – like this 3-pack by Tierra Garden here – and reuse them when needed during the inclement weather of spring and fall.

If you’re in a pinch, many things around the home can be used as a cloche.

An upside down bucket or flower pot would do the trick. Or cut off the bottoms of plastic milk jugs and nestle them into the soil.

When using cloches to ward against frost, place them over your plants just before nightfall and uncover them in the morning so they can benefit from the warmth and energy of the sun.


Give them a Blanket

To protect a larger group of plants, simply cover them up with blankets, bed sheets, towels, or drop cloths.

Before laying down the fabric, place several stakes around your plants so that when your cover them, it creates a tent-like structure.

Allow the material to drape over the plants all the way to the soil line. Don’t cinch it around the trunk or stem of the plant, as tying it off will prevent the heat of the earth from emanating up through the plant.

For extra frost resistance, add a final layer of plastic – a tarp or an old shower curtain, for instance, would work great.

Just be careful that no part of the plastic covering makes contact with your plant’s foliage as plastic can damage your plants.

Weigh down the corners and edges with heavy stones or bricks to prevent the coverings from blowing away in the night. Done just before dusk, you’ll need to remove these coverings first thing in the morning the next day.

If dealing with the threat of frost is a recurring theme in your garden, you may wish to invest in specially designed, reusable, and breathable frost blankets like this one, that can be cut to size.

On really chilly nights, mylar thermal blankets (aka space blankets), with the aluminized side facing down toward the plants, helps reflect 99% of the heat back to the earth.

Place space blankets on top of plastic covers.

Another option for neat and orderly garden rows is this mini hoop house kit that comes with steel hoops and a fitted, heavy duty garden fleece covering that conserves warmth.


Wrap Your Trees

Younger trees, between the ages of 1 to 4 years old, are more much more sensitive frost injury, which may outright kill them.

Likewise, the buds and blossoms of fruit trees exposed to frost in spring will stunt their growth and result in a reduced harvest for the rest of the growing season.

Citrus trees are particularly frost tender and should be protected when temperatures dip to 29°F.

To protect trees from the cold, wrap their trunks with towels, blankets, cardboard, rags, or pipe insulation.

You can also use burlap or felted tree protector wraps.

Starting at the base of the trunk, wrap around and around, making sure to overlap layers by a couple inches. Keep wrapping in this manner until you reach the lowest branches of the tree.

Secure the wrap to the tree with some twine or weatherproof tape.

If temperatures reach 26°F for a prolonged period, add a layer of plastic sheeting over your wrap for added frost protection.


Keep the Air Moving

When frost threatens vast tracts of land in commercial agriculture, farmers have employed various tactics to simulate wind.

One such device is a selective inverted sink, a large fan in a chimney that pulls cold air up and away while it pulls warmer air down to the ground.

Another method is to task a number of low-flying helicopters to fly over crops to keep the air flowing!

While neither of these are practical solutions for the home gardener, the concept of air movement to ward off frost can be utilized at a much smaller scale.

Simulating wind this way can raise the temperatures in your garden patch by 2°F to 7°F.

On still nights with no rain in the forecast, an electric fan can be used to create an artificial breeze.

Because electronics and water don’t mix, you may wish to invest in a powerful blower made for outdoor use, like this rechargeable one from Amazon.

When possible, place portable fans in a sheltered spot. To ensure warmer air is drawn downward, set it up a few feet off the ground – the higher the better.

Try to situate it so that the breeze moves over every plant in the plot.

What to Do After a Frost

You’ll know your plants have been damaged by frost when the leaves and branches turn black or brown.

Wait until the weather warms up and all danger of frost has passed before pruning.

Dead branches and twigs provide a bit of protection too, so hold off until you see new growth before cutting the damaged foliage away.

How to Make a More Frost-Tolerant Garden

Save yourself the panic and heartbreak of losing your flowers, trees, and crops to a sudden frost by planning your garden accordingly.

Plants that are native to your region are much better adapted to the temperature swings of your biome. Use the Native Plant Finder to get ideas on indigenous bushes, grasses, flowers, and trees.

Other frost hardy flowering plants include crocus, pansy, tulip, calendula, sweet alyssum, and snapdragon.

As for edibles, there are plenty of cold hardy veggies that often taste sweeter when touched by frost:

Root Vegetables – Carrots, potatoes, beets, parsnips, turnips, onions, garlic, radish, and rutabaga.

Cruciferous Vegetables – Broccoli, cauliflower, kale, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, bok choy, and collard greens.

Leafy Greens – Spinach, lettuce, Swiss chard, arugula, tatsoi, and mache.

When planning out your garden in the spring, avoid planting frost tender plants in low lying areas and in depressions in the ground that create frost pockets.

Since warmer air rises and cooler air sinks, plants sensitive to frost should be sowed in higher ground, in raised garden beds, or in containers that are easy to bring inside when cold weather hits.

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How to Protect Newly Planted Trees and Shrubs from Frost

One of the joys of planting a new tree is getting to experience all the “firsts. ” The first spring bud break, the first fall color change, or the first flush of tasty fruit.

And then there’s your tree’s first few winters. Frankly, they can be tough to get through. Young trees are much more vulnerable to cold weather damage than mature ones, so they need extra help from you to bear the elements.

Below, get tips on protecting newly planted trees and shrubs from frost damage.

Best Way To Protect Trees From Frost

The key to protecting newly planted trees from winter damage is shielding them from harsh elements—from the top of the canopy down to the roots.

Fruit trees and any trees with thin bark are especially vulnerable to an issue called sun-scald. During a warm winter day, tree bark heats up, causing the tissue under the bark to take a quick break from dormancy. But as soon as the sun sets and freezing temperatures swoop in, that tissue under the bark freezes to death. As a result, large, sunken areas develop on the bark.

And, sadly, the damage doesn’t stop there. Freezing temps can also damage a fruit tree’s buds, making it harder for the tree to produce fruit next spring.

But, if you’re proactive, protecting young fruit trees in the winter is possible. Before temperatures drop, do this:

  1. Wrap the tree’s trunk with a plastic tree guard or any other opaque protective tree wrap you find at your garden store. This will protect the tree from sun scald.
  2. Use a frost shield for fruit trees, also known as an anti-transparent. Spraying fruit tree canopies with frost shield coats the tree with a protective film that helps minimize moisture loss.

How To Protect Newly Planted Shrubs From Frost

Oftentimes we plant shrubs to create a privacy screen around our yards. But of course, those shrubs need to be in good health to do their job!

Protect shrubs against winter injury by taking these few steps in the fall:

  1. Thoroughly water your shrubs all the way up until the ground freezes. Here’s how much water newly planted trees and shrubs need.
  2. Seal in moisture by covering your shrub’s bed in a 2-to-4-inch layer of mulch.
  3. Wrap shrubs in loose material like burlap to shield them from harsh wind. Here are two ways to wrap your shrubs before winter.

What Temperature To Cover Plants

Most plants are just fine as long as the temperature is 30 degrees F or higher. Freeze damage can happen when the temperature drops down to the mid-to-low-twenties, and plants are definitely at risk when temps sink under 20 degrees.

To be safe, protect your plants with tree guards or burlap before the temperature is consistently below 30 degrees.

How To Protect Plants From A Late Frost

No trees respond well to a sudden temperature drop, but newly planted trees can really take a hit if mild springtime elements abruptly turn cold. (If you didn’t know, here’s why trees do not appreciate fluctuating temperatures.)

Planning ahead, and having tools like mulch and burlap on hand, can help with the shock of a late spring frost. To protect trees and shrubs from a sudden shift in weather, follow these steps:

  1. Keep an eye on the forecast to track any expected drops in temperature.
  2. The day before a freezing day, thoroughly water your plant.
  3. Mulch to lock in moisture and prevent frost heaving. In a nutshell, frost heaving is when soil thaws and freezes over and over, causing roots to lift up above ground and become exposed to injuring, cold weather. This is a particular problem for young trees during their first couple winters, since their roots are still shallow.
  4. For extra protection, carefully cover the plant with burlap (here’s how!) or a bed sheet if it’s small enough. Be sure to remove that cover first thing the next morning so your plant doesn’t overheat.

When To Remove Tree Wrap

Protective tree wraps aren’t meant to stay on all year. Here’s how you know it’s time to take off tree wrap in spring.

Did your evergreen shrub turn brown in winter? Here’s how to spot and prevent evergreen winter burn.


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Effective methods of saving plants from recurrent frosts

With the approach of spring, all summer residents and gardeners begin preparations for the new sowing season. One of the main activities at this time is the preparation for return frosts. A sharp drop in temperature in May and early June is a common occurrence for Russian latitudes. The situation is dangerous because trees, shrubs, sown vegetables, planted flowers and berries can die from a cold snap. Heat-loving crops are especially affected. Consider how to protect plants from spring frosts. What to do to enjoy a rich harvest in the fall.

Which plants tolerate frosts more easily

Crop name

What low t withstand, about C

Peas, legumes, celery, garlic, parsnips

Seedlings are able to survive a drop in air temperature and on the ground down to -5 without consequences.

Raspberry bushes

Within 2-3 days, it will withstand the onslaught of frosts up to -3-4. On the third day, do something urgently. Otherwise, the bed cannot be saved.

Strawberries and strawberries

You will be able to survive the temperature drop to -9 painlessly.

Carrot, parsnip, parsley

Radish, cabbage, horseradish

Spinach, onion, rhubarb and sorrel

Able to withstand and not die when t drops to -5-6.

Blackberry, raspberry

Rarely affected by frost attacks. Saves shrubs late flowering.

Cold sensitive crops

  • Early flowering stone fruit, especially planted in lowlands, away from water bodies. Also weakened and sick specimens, which are the first to be at risk.
  • Apricots, apples, plums and cherries are considered cold sensitive. Also cherry, pear.
  • Grapes, gooseberries and blueberries do not tolerate frost well.
  • Easily freezes early planted seedlings of vegetable crops. These are eggplant, tomato and pepper grown from seeds.
  • A sharp cold snap is detrimental to strawberries, strawberries, gourds. They begin to suffer from cold when the thermometer falls to -1 about S.
  • Even if the berries grown from mustaches or seeds were strong, the consequences cannot be avoided. After freezing, the bushes stop growing, leave for a long time and painfully. But still, part of the crop can usually be saved. This is due to the fact that the culture has a fairly long flowering period. Even if the early flower buds suffer from the cold, fall off, after resuscitation, the plants will again throw out the flower stalks and delight with ripe berries.
  • A number of heat-loving varieties of garden flowers also suffer from spring cold. Drop in air and soil t to -2 about C causes a halt in growth and development. As a result, even if the flowers do not die, flowering is still delayed by about 1.5-2 weeks.
  • Perennial salvia and rose do not tolerate spring cold. Annuals dahlias, nasturtiums, chrysanthemums grown for seedlings from seeds of marigolds and zinnias. It is recommended not to rush to transfer them to the ground. It is better to wait until the threat of May frosts completely disappears.

Food for thought! The degree of susceptibility to sudden changes in temperature largely depends on what stage of blooming the buds are in. The ovaries withstand temperatures down to -1 o C. The buds fall already at a frost of -3 o C. Blossoming buds die at -3.3-3.5 o C. Blossoming buds darken and fall off if it gets colder to -2 o C. In the flowering stage, plants become the weakest, most susceptible. Fruits will not set if a fading tree, bush or flower had to survive a frost of up to -1.5 o C.

How to protect the beds from return frosts are no longer scary. However, it is not.

  • First of all, there are regions in Russia where the spring is protracted and the years are short and do not come soon.
  • Secondly, today the climate is changing rapidly. Even the southern regions are not immune from sudden changes in temperature, night cooling.

What is a return frost? This is when at night the temperature drops for a certain time, falling to 0 about C. Basically, such surprises occur at night or in the early morning, before sunrise.

How to protect the beds, especially those that are sensitive to cold? There is a set of measures that have proven useful and effective in practice:


How to organize, conduct


Ideal for garden beds.

  • Use organic matter as mulch: dried grass, straw or compost.
  • Beds and seedlings leaning towards the ground are covered with natural covering material.

Mulching helps conserve heat by reducing soil heat transfer and increasing moisture above the soil surface. When to line? Best in the evening, after watering. For greater effect, a layer of agrofibre should be laid on top of the organic mulch carpet. Then the beds will not be afraid of any frost.


Mostly used for potatoes.

  • Armed with a chopper, it is necessary to form mounds around each bush.
  • Cover the sprouts with leaves well.
  • The thickness of the soil layer should be approx. 8-10 cm.

Covering materials

A simple and effective way to save almost any vegetable garden. It consists in creating a mini-greenhouse from special covering materials, any bottles, boxes and containers that are at hand.

  • beds are covered with spunbond or polyethylene film.
  • Blooming strawberries and strawberries are covered with agrofiber, agrospan.
  • Seedlings are covered with cut plastic containers: bottles, boxes, containers, caps, etc.
  • Use any cardboard box as a covering. Cones and covering caps are made from cardboard and thick paper.
  • To protect against frost, each bush can be covered with glass containers: jars, bottles, bottles, any other containers.
  • To protect ornamental shrubs, special covering materials or ordinary burlap are used.
  • Medicinal plants sown in the soil are protected by covering the seedlings with cut plastic bottles, buckets, disposable cups.

Any type of shelter will reliably protect the beds from harmful contact with the outside world.

Important! When constructing any protective devices, using covering materials and containers, try to keep them less in contact with the leaves, tops of plants. Therefore, mini-greenhouses are built for relatively tall seedlings, young bushes and trees.

  • The frame is first formed from bent metal pipes. The length of the sections is at least 45 cm.
  • After that, any non-woven material or film is attached to the structure.
  • Preferably 2-3 coats. The number of layers will directly depend on the degree of the predicted degree of cooling.

Only use transparencies! Black and any dark ones will not let heat through to the roots of seedlings.

Fertilizer spraying

Preparing potassium-phosphorus top dressing.

  • Take 75 g of double superphosphate for 1.5 liters of hot water.
  • The mixture is infused for 3.5-4 hours.
  • After the solution is filtered, diluted in 15 liters of water.
  • Add 30 g of potassium nitrate to the finished composition.

The resulting mixture is sprayed on trees, shrubs, flowers and other horticultural crops a day before the predicted frost.

Root applications

Landings are watered at the roots with fertilizer solutions with a high content of potassium, phosphorus. Top dressing will help if they are applied 10-11 hours before the frost hits.


The easiest way, but has some peculiarities. The essence is as follows:

  • Fires are lit on the leeward side of the site. Based on each hundred square meters, one. Bonfire size: width up to 1.3-1.5 m, height - not less than 0.5-0.7 m.
  • They set fire to everything that smolders well: straw, dry branches and leaves, cut grass, etc.
  • The fire is kindled in advance with the expectation that the strongest frosts occur in the early morning. Maintain smoldering by checking if there is heat.

Smoke creates a curtain, an obstacle between the cold and plants, warms the air by several degrees. What are the features of the method? It will help with frosts not lower than -4 about C. This method of protection can cause indignation of the neighbors if the smoke is blown into their garden.

Sprinkler or irrigation

The method is more convenient, more efficient than sprinkling, therefore it is considered quite popular. To do this, you need a hose with a nozzle for watering. Ideal if the site has a stationary irrigation system with sprinklers. What are they doing.

  • Irrigate the plants a few hours before expected frost.
  • Do it late at night, as in most cases the most severe frosts occur before dawn.

What does it do? The moisture that has fallen on the seedlings at minus begins to actively evaporate. As a result of active evaporation, the air around is warmed up, not allowing the cold to fall close to the ground, where the roots of the plants are. The method is effective, it saves even in cases where it gets colder to the mark of -5-7 about C. The main thing is to water a few hours before the cold snap. Otherwise, the moisture will begin to evaporate early, all efforts will be nullified.

Heavy or wet irrigation

The method is applicable to all plants, for example, seedlings from vegetable seeds, young and mature berries, etc. But it is especially effective for shrubs and trees.

  • Up to 5-10 buckets of warm water heated up to +10 o C. are poured under each tree or bush.
  • Treat crops additionally by irrigation or sprinkling.

The protection method works similarly to the previous one. Moisture begins to evaporate, warms the air and prevents plantings from freezing.

Green manures

Green manure seeds are sown in advance between rows, in areas where vegetables, flowers, berries, any heat-loving varieties are planted. Green manure with a living wall will protect plantings from extreme temperatures. After, when warm weather sets in, they are cut off, leaving between the rows like mulch.

Landing planning

  • Stone fruit trees are capricious, they react negatively to lower temperatures. It is recommended not to plant them in the lowlands, where it is always 2-3 about C colder than in the rest of the territory.
  • Before transferring vegetable seedlings to open ground, they must be hardened off. During the day, take out to the street, at night - the house. In general, do not rush to plant vegetables in the garden. Wait until warm weather sets in. Otherwise, the plants can not be saved.
  • When choosing seeds for shrubs and trees, vegetables, flowers and other crops, choose varieties that are suitable for the climate in your area. Today, most breeders have such seed. A striking example is the seeds "Gavrish" and "Agroelita".

Weatherman himself

It's good to be interested in the weather forecast, but we all know that meteorologists often make mistakes. Not because they are incompetent. It's just that often they give out data not for a single region or city, but in general, for the region. That is why the weather varies so much in individual places located in the same region. What to do? Learn on your own, determine what the weather will be like in the coming days. Become a weather forecaster and do everything to prevent freezing of plants.

Nature and folk wisdom will help

Sign, natural phenomenon

What will happen (probable course of events)

Early spring, warm first half of the season

In May, the threat of cooling is great. Moreover, a significant drop in temperature is likely to occur closer to the end of May, beginning of June.

Early spring, warm

Expect return frosts May 1-5, 15-20. In addition to freezing of the soil, wet snow is possible.

Warm during the day, cold in the evening

Wait for cold weather if a sharp drop in temperature occurs against the background of such factors:

  • cloudless, clear sky;
  • calm, calm weather;
  • dry air and no morning dew.

The probability is especially high if at 19:00-20:00 the temperature begins to drop sharply, and by 21:00 the thermometer already shows +3-4 about C.

Moon yellow like a head of cheese

Expect frost in the air and on the ground.

Sparrows sit silently, ruffled and hiding their tails.

High chance of rain with sleet. The cold will come soon.

The weather is cloudy, but it clears up closer to the night

Cooling will be for sure.

The fish does not bite and goes to the depth

A sharp cold will come in a day.

The frogs have stopped croaking, they are silent

There will be a cold snap, frosts on the ground.

Water lilies on ponds raised leaves

No more cooling. You can start planting heat-loving crops, sowing seeds of flowers and vegetables in open ground.

Viburnum blossoms in a riotous color

The threat has passed. There will be no more cold snaps and frosts.

Red willow blossoms

The earth is ripe, there will be no sharp drops in temperature. It's time to go to the field, sow the soil.

Willow and aspen blossomed

It's time to plant carrot seeds in the garden. At the same time it is already possible to sow:

  • parsley, dill;
  • radish, radish;
  • turnips and onions.

Maple blossoms

It's time to plant the beet seeds.

Lilac and rowan blossoms

It's time to sow cucumber seeds outdoors. Plant seedlings:

  • eggplant;
  • tomatoes;
  • peppers;
  • physalis.

It's time for cherry plum, cherry and blackthorn to blossom

Time to sow corn seeds outdoors.

The cuckoo has flown in and is calling

Heat-loving crops can be sown outdoors.

Oak blossomed

It's time to sow peas.

Three frosts in May

When bird cherry blossoms, when apricot blossoms, the temperature drops especially when oak blossoms.

This is interesting! The people noticed. If March is dry, April is damp, and May is cold, expect a rich harvest in autumn.

Calculations help predict the weather

In one of the issues of the magazine "Country Secrets" a note was published by our compatriot, an experienced gardener Yu. M. Alekseev. Based on personal experience, he told how you can determine whether there will be frost in May.

  • To do this, you need an ordinary outdoor thermometer, which is hung out in a shady place where the sun hardly gets.
  • To predict changes in the weather, you need to fix the thermometer readings at 13:00 (afternoon) and at 21:00 (evening).
  • After you need to find the difference between the received numbers.
  • Check the final number with the data given in the table.
  • Thus, to find out how likely the threat of the return of frost.

Factors affecting forecast accuracy

Forecast accuracy depends on a number of weather factors. They focus on changes that occur mainly in the evening or at night. What factors indicate that there will be no cooling, even if the thermometer shows otherwise:

  • The wind increased, became gusty and cold.
  • Cloudiness has sharply increased.
  • Clouds of fog came out of nowhere.
  • Dew fell on the grass and leaves of the trees.

Good to know! In cities, on hills covered with vegetation, the ambient temperature is usually 2-3 o higher than in hilly areas and in lowlands.

If the seedlings and seedlings are still frozen

Unfortunately, not all crops will be able to survive the cold snap. Even strong plants sometimes cannot stand frost and freeze slightly. What to do in this case? Is it possible to somehow revive the garden and vegetable garden?

  • Seedlings, frozen trees and shrubs should be covered with hay, straw or rags. They will warm up, slowly thaw. There is hope that they will fully recover.
  • Frozen seedlings and crops will help save the following method. In the morning, before sunrise, spray the damaged plants with a solution, where 2 g of boron, potassium permanganate and copper were thrown into 10 liters of water. Spray completely every bush! The water should be cold, not warm.
  • Experienced gardeners advise to fluff up frost-bitten beds, water the root zone of damaged plants with a weak solution of complex fertilizers. This method is good for grapes. And the tomatoes will help, albeit partially. Frozen tops are unlikely to come to life, but with 100% certainty we can say that powerful side shoots will grow.
  • Wait a day after the frost, then water the bed with tomatoes and cabbage with water at room temperature. How much to pour? Under each bush 1 liter. Before watering, it is recommended to trim the damaged tops and leaves to a healthy, undamaged tissue.
  • One day after watering, spray frozen seedlings with any growth activator. Suitable Kornevin, Epin, Epin-extra, Heteroauxin or analogues. Prepare the spray mixture strictly according to the instructions on the package. How much will be needed? Based on the calculation of 75-100 ml for each bush. The same solution is recommended to water the soil near the plants. Pour about 175-200 ml under each seedling.
  • After 3-4 days, it is recommended to fertilize with 10 liters of water, where 1 tbsp. l. urea.
  • After about a week, 8-9 days, feed the affected crops with a top dressing with a high content of potassium. The solution is prepared based on 10 liters of water 1 tbsp. l. fertilizers. Under each bush, approximately 175-200 ml is poured.
  • If frosts have affected potato seedlings, it is also worth trimming the tops and leaves to living tissue. Then spray each bush with a growth stimulator. In parallel with this, reinforce the seedlings with nitrogen fertilizers. To do this, prepare a solution of 10 liters of water and 20 g of ammonium nitrate. Pour 150-180 ml under each bush.

How to reanimate seedlings of vegetable crops

Here is how experienced gardeners recommend reviving seedlings of vegetable crops beaten by the May cold snap:

Comprehensive treatment, sanitary pruning will revive frozen seedlings. Solutions of stimulants and dressings will strengthen and help you recover faster from the stress experienced.

Good to know! Antidepressants will not help resuscitate peppers and eggplants. Cultures are capricious, hypersensitive to any stress, temperature extremes, and especially frost.

Each climatic zone of our country has temperature peculiarities. It is difficult to say which of the above methods will meet expectations. It will be the most effective and will help protect or reanimate damaged seedlings. You will have to choose. There is consolation in the fact that if forewarned, then forearmed. You should not despair. Take our advice into service and do not hesitate, the harvest will be saved!

How to protect the garden from frost

Saving berry crops

Berry crops can suffer the most from the cold. They are closest to the ground, and there the temperature is always lower than at a height of 1-3 meters. At a temperature of minus 4, flowers and ovaries may die. If there is no wind, and the night is clear already 0 - minus 2 can be dangerous for plants.

Opened strawberry flowers die at a temperature of minus 1-1.5. Therefore, if there is a threat of frost, it must be covered in the evening with film, paper, burlap, matting, hay, straw. If you cover with a film, then it should not touch the flowers, otherwise there will be no benefit - they will freeze anyway. But if you lay a layer of straw or grass between them, it will be just right, you get such a warm blanket.

We remove the coating no earlier than 9 am. In lowlands, deep depressions, on the lower parts of the slope, in clearings in the forest, the danger of frost is greater, therefore, in such places, plants must be covered for several days in a row.

To protect currant and gooseberry bushes, wrap them with burlap, film or paper.

Plants grown in unheated film greenhouses (we talked about how to build them ourselves in the last issue) must also be sheltered from recurrent frosts. We save the planted seedlings of tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini with paper caps, burlap or other opaque materials.

Let's also not forget that the plants should be watered abundantly in the evening.

Small-drop irrigation

But what about fruit trees, because their flowers and ovaries are also vulnerable to sudden frosts?

Unfortunately, such a universal coating that can protect an adult apple or pear tree has not yet been invented. Here another effective method is suitable - small-drop sprinkling.

To a person ignorant of horticultural matters, such a method may seem, to put it mildly, barbaric. Douse trees before frost?! No, no, he says, never! And it won't be right. Sprinkler frost protection is based on the fact that each drop of water, when frozen, gives off heat to the environment. If the trees are moistened so that there is always water on the surface of the leaves for freezing, the heat released by the droplets will be enough to compensate for the temperature changes in the environment.

How to do small-drop irrigation? We install nozzles on the hoses with the smallest possible spray - and we begin the careful spraying of tree crowns. At the same time, we try to make sure that intense "rain" covers the surface of flowering or fading trees throughout the entire time of freezing. So we are getting ready for a sleepless night: the thermometer will drop to the lowest mark only at the end of the night. Oversleep - then you will reproach yourself.

Spraying must be completed one hour before sunrise, otherwise the plants will turn black and die when exposed to the sun's rays.

Sprinkling helps to protect flowers and ovaries from frost damage even at air temperatures down to minus 4-5 degrees. Remember that sprinkling should not be carried out in strong winds. Wind increases evaporation and, accordingly, increases the risk of frost damage to plants. If the wind is stronger than 5 m/s, it is better not to sprinkle. And one more thing: if leaves have not yet appeared on your plants, sprinkling against frost will not protect, but, on the contrary, will destroy the trees.

Installing smoke screens

Smoke curtains are an old and proven way to protect trees and shrubs from frost.

Heaps of wood shavings and chips, fallen leaves, peat are laid out between the trees and set on fire. From above we cover the fire with sawdust, grass, we put sod, earth on the flame. The main thing is more smoke.

If frosts are expected at night, then we lay out 6-9 smoke piles on the site and set them on fire a couple of hours after sunset. For greater effect, it is best to negotiate with the neighbors in the area - it is more useful for plants to "smoke" the company.

If, 30 minutes after sunrise, the temperature does not fall below minus 1. 5, we disassemble the piles (but not completely) and extinguish. They may come in handy this spring more than once.

Hilling up

In order to protect, for example, potato seedlings from the cold, they should be covered with a small layer of soil. This is a simple but also effective way to deal with frost.

Feeding plants before testing

Flowering plants are best strengthened from the inside by feeding them before frost. To do this, foliar top dressing should be done from a solution of potash and phosphorus mineral fertilizers (3-4% potassium sulfate and 4-5% superphosphate). Top dressing increases the concentration of cell sap, which increases the resistance of fruit plantations to freezing. Don't forget to spray the plants the night before or 2-3 hours before frost.

After drip irrigation, flowering fruit trees were covered with icicles. But it is not dangerous for them.

by the way

Late? Don't panic

If you haven't kept track of the weather and the plants are frozen, don't rush to pull everything out and throw it away. Thoroughly water the soil around and spray with one of the growth stimulants. Perhaps the plants will get sick and come to life - there have been such cases, and more than once.

little tricks


1. A threaded neck from a small plastic bottle (for shampoo, water) and a stopper from it will help to secure the edges of the greenhouse's plastic cover. The jammed film is not damaged.

2. Rubber rings 20-30 mm wide, cut from a car tube, and rope extensions with such rings will not allow the plastic film of the greenhouse to sag. The same rings with extensions press the film from above.

3. When arranging a greenhouse, stretch a twine mesh with mesh sizes of approximately 50 by 50 mm over the frames, cover it with a film, and also stretch the mesh from above.

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