How to prune a peach tree in summer

Correct summer pruning techniques for peach trees stressed

Tree response can vary when these aspects of pruning are varied. When peach trees are summer pruned properly, one can expect economic benefits, but economic losses result from summer pruning incorrectly. During the 1980s and 90s, several researchers evaluated summer pruning in apple and peach. Simultaneously, others elucidated the importance of light and carbohydrate partitioning during fruit development that helps explain the tree’s response to summer pruning. I will try to review some of this information to explain how summer pruning can be used to maintain fruiting wood in the lower canopy and to enhance peach fruit quality.

Peach growth habit

Peach trees exhibit strong apical dominance and tend to produce new shoots on the ends of branches and in the tops of the trees. As trees grow taller, the lower canopy becomes shaded and new shoots developing in the extreme shade will die. Once these fruiting shoots in the tree interior are lost, it is very difficult to regenerate new fruitful shoots. However, if moderately high light levels are maintained in the tree interior, it is possible to maintain fruiting wood for the life of the tree. Shoots developing in early-season moderate shade will initiate few flower buds. Shoots exposed to high light levels early in the season will initiate maximum numbers of flower buds.

Branch orientation influences the number and quality of new shoots arising from those branches. If a branch is too upright, then no new shoots will develop along the lower section of the branch, even when light levels are adequate. If a branch is too horizontal, then dormant buds in the bark will develop into strong vertical vegetative shoots that produce sylleptic shoots that produce few flower buds but shade the tree interior. As shoots elongate, a vegetative bud forms at the base of each leaf. These axillary buds usually remain dormant until they are exposed to a chilling requirement and then may remain dormant or develop into leafy shoots. Some buds on vigorous shoots do not become dormant and develop into leafy shoots shortly after they are formed. These shoots developing from non-dormant buds are called “sylleptic shoots.”

Importance of light

Fruit developing in the shade during the final swell will be small and soft, with poor red color and soluble solids. The primary reason trees are summer pruned is to enhance light penetration and distribution throughout the canopy. Relatively high light levels (40% full sum) are required for red color development on the fruit.

Over a period of several years, I shaded ‘Redhaven’ peach trees with various levels of shade cloth at different times during the summer to determine the critical level of light and the critical time that light is needed for flower bud and fruit development. I found that the critical time for flower bud development is mid-June to early-August for flower bud formation. Just three weeks of shade (20% full sun) during that period will reduce flower bud density (buds per meter of shoot length). A six-week period of heavy shade (20% full sun) from mid-August to early October did not affect the number of flowers per meter the following spring. Forty-five percent full sun during the six weeks before the harvest was adequate for high-quality fruit.

Depending on the objectives summer pruning should be performed at different times, and different types of cuts should be made.

Summer pruning to maintain fruiting wood

One reason to reduce shading is to maintain fruiting wood in the lower canopy. To enhance flower bud development in the lower canopy, summer pruning must be completed by mid-July. Summer pruning after mid-July will not improve flower bud initiation or development. For mature trees, remove the vigorous upright water sprouts that shade the lower canopy. If this is done early, before the base of the shoot lignifies, the shoots can be ripped out by hand with little damage to the bark. After shoot lignification, had pruners are needed to cut the shoot off at the base. Do not head these shoots or cut the shoot just above a sylleptic shoot because new shoots will develop below the pruning cut and the resulting shoot will shade the lower part of the tree, and these vigorous shoots will develop few flower buds for next year.

Summer pruning for tree training

Young vigorously growing trees can be summer pruned to develop fruiting wood in the lower canopy and also to help train the tree and develop the scaffold system. In early June, the upright water sprouts developing from the upper surface of scaffold branches can be removed to enhance light penetration. To encourage a spreading growth habit, scaffold branches can be headed just above a sylleptic shoot that is growing outward. This same type of cut can sometimes be repeated in mid- to late-July if the sylleptic shoot that was retained also develops sylleptic shoots.

Summer pruning to enhance red fruit color

Summer pruning about two weeks before harvest can improve fruit red color development without adversely affecting fruit size and sugar levels if leaf removal near the fruit is minimized. Mowing trees to remove a high percentage of foliage in the tree top does enhance light penetration and red color development, but it also reduces fruit size and sugar levels. Therefore, mowing or hedging should be avoided because they remove too much foliage near the fruit. The only beneficial effect of summer pruning on the fruit is improved red color development of some cultivars some years, but summer pruning will not improve fruit size or sugar levels.

Figure 1. Three-year-old ‘Cresthaven’ trees before (left) and after (right) summer pruning. Photo: Rich Marini, Penn State

Potential negative effects of summer pruning

In New Jersey, I found that summer pruning delayed leaf drop, the onset of dormancy and acclimation to low temperatures. Therefore, to avoid reducing early-winter cold hardiness, summer pruning should be completed by mid-August.

What summer pruning will not do

Although many claims have been made about various responses to summer pruning, few are supported by research. Other than a moderate improvement in fruit red color, summer pruning will have little effect on fruit size or quality. My research showed that summer pruning reduced root growth and trunk growth but shoot growth the following season was never suppressed by summer pruning. So, summer pruning will not suppress the vigor of the above-ground parts of the tree. Late-season summer pruning to enhance fruit color will not enhance flower bud formation or development, fruit set or affect the time of bloom the following year. Valsa canker was not influenced by summer pruning. Cold hardiness was not enhanced but was delayed, by summer pruning.

In general, the biggest benefits from summer pruning are the maintenance of fruiting wood in the lower canopy and developing the scaffold system on young trees.

Rich Marini, Ph.D., Penn State University

Photo at top: Donald Seifrit, Penn State

How to Prune Peach Trees


Marie Iannotti

Marie Iannotti

Marie Iannotti is a life-long gardener and a veteran Master Gardener with nearly three decades of experience. She's also an author of three gardening books, a plant photographer, public speaker, and a former Cornell Cooperative Extension Horticulture Educator. Marie's garden writing has been featured in newspapers and magazines nationwide and she has been interviewed for Martha Stewart Radio, National Public Radio, and numerous articles.

Learn more about The Spruce's Editorial Process

Updated on 06/09/22

The Spruce / Steven Merkel

In This Article

  • When to Prune Peach Trees

  • Before Getting Started

Project Overview

Peach trees are one of the least demanding fruit trees you can grow. Like many fruit trees, peach trees are susceptible to some diseases and pests, but peaches ripen so early in the season that these problems don't usually affect the harvest. And harvesting is usually fairly simple, thanks to the many dwarf varieties that remain just 4 to 6 feet in height. However, the one maintenance task that shouldn't be overlooked is pruning. Your peach trees will be healthier, more productive, and easier to work with if you set up an annual pruning routine.

Grow Bushels of Peaches From One Seed

Click Play to Learn How to Prune Peach Trees

When to Prune Peach Trees

While many fruiting plants are best pruned when they are dormant, this is not the case with peach trees. Pruning them when the weather is still cold makes them susceptible to dieback and causes them to be less cold-hardy overall. Ideally, you should prune peach trees annually in spring, just as the buds swell and begin to turn pink. It's better to prune a little too late than too early. However, you can remove shoots developing in the center of the tree at any time since these will block sun and air from getting to the fruits. Plus, taking them out during the summer usually means less to remove the next spring.

Major pruning of a peach tree should begin when the tree is at least three years old and has matured enough to produce a good fruit crop. Before this, pruning efforts should be limited to establishing the basic shape of the tree.

Before Getting Started

Rather than pruning to emphasize a central trunk, as is done with other fruit trees, peach trees are best pruned into an open "V" or vase shape, with three to five well-spaced main branches forming the vase. These main "scaffold "branches should be at roughly 45-degree angles to the trunk, leaving the center open to sun and air.

Peach trees produce fruit on one-year-old wood, so a mature tree can be pruned rather extensively. Remove around 40 percent of the tree each year to encourage new growth after pruning, so there will be fruiting branches every year. In general, remove old gray shoots because these will not fruit. But leave the one-year-old shoots, which will be reddish in appearance.

Equipment / Tools

  • Bypass shears
  • Long-handled pruners
  • Pruning saw (optional)
  • Stepladder (if needed)
  • Thick gloves
  • Long-sleeved shirt


  • Refuse bags

The Spruce / Steven Merkel

  1. Remove Dead, Damaged, and Diseased Branches

    Use long-handled pruners or a pruning saw to remove all branches in poor condition. Such branches should be removed whenever you see them. This is true of all trees but especially for trees that bear fruit on new wood, such as peach trees.

    Cut removed branches into manageable pieces and bag them or bundle them for disposal

    The Spruce / Steven Merkel

  2. Choose Main Branches, Remove the Others

    In the early years of the tree's life, select three to five main upward-growing "scaffold" branches along the outside of the tree. Then, remove any competing large branches using a pruner or pruning saw. Pay special attention to removing branches in the center of the tree and those growing downward or horizontal. The goal is to create a tree that has a V- or vase-shaped profile with an open center.

    Most growers recommend that the first of these scaffold branches be no closer than 18 inches from the ground. The main branches should be spaced evenly around the trunk, with a vertical offset of about 6 inches between adjacent branches. Ideally, all scaffold branches should emerge from the trunk between 18 and 36 inches from the ground. This creates a compact tree that will be easy to harvest without a tall ladder.


    Try to prune in a way that eliminates narrow, V-shaped crotches, which are weak and will become prone to splitting when the branches are supporting a heavy fruit crop. Crotches 45 degrees or wider will be less susceptible to splitting.

    The Spruce / Steven Merkel

  3. Trim Tall Branches

    Use a pruner to trim the ends of any tall branches, The goal here is to keep the tree at a harvestable height. If you prune without a ladder, this will mean cutting the branches to a height that you can reach from the ground.

    The Spruce / Steven Merkel

  4. Remove Spindly Interior Branches

    Prune any small, spindly branches growing from the main scaffold branches inward. Make sure to remove any shoots that point straight up or down, as they won't allow the peach tree to properly grow into the desired V shape.

    The Spruce / Steven Merkel

  5. Cut Back Remaining Red Shoots

    Use pruners to cut back the new red shoots to a length of around 18 inches. Make the cuts to within 1/4 inch of an outward-facing bud. These are fruit-producing shoots, and you want to keep them close to the main branches so the fruit will be adequately supported and easy to harvest.

    Also, prune off the suckers at the base of the tree. You can pull them off with your hand if they are small enough; they will be less likely to regrow if they are pulled instead of cut.

    The Spruce / Steven Merkel

  6. Plan for Future Growth

    If there is no new growth within reach on a tall branch, remove the entire branch. These are not likely to be productive, and removing them ensures the tree will put its energy into plenty of new productive growth.

    And if the tree doesn't have enough upward-curving main branches, find a secondary branch that has new upward-curving growth, and cut back to that new growth. This will become one of the main branches for future seasons.


    Peach trees are not long-lived. So planting a new tree every five to six years will ensure you are never without a peach tree.

    The Spruce / Steven Merkel

    How to Grow Your Own Peaches

Article Sources

The Spruce uses only high-quality sources, including peer-reviewed studies, to support the facts within our articles. Read our editorial process to learn more about how we fact-check and keep our content accurate, reliable, and trustworthy.

  1. Training and Pruning Stone Fruit. University of Maryland Extension

How to cut a peach correctly -

It is difficult to meet a person who would not like juicy peach fruits. But in order to grow them, gardeners will need to make a lot of effort. The peach tree is a rather demanding crop that needs careful and regular care. And pruning is one of the primary procedures, without which you are unlikely to get a well-bearing tree. Even novice flower growers can grow a peach, but if you have any questions, you can always consult with our experts day and night. Also pay attention to bouquets with delivery. Sending flowers in Kyiv and other cities of Ukraine daily

Why pruning is necessary

Peach pruning is necessary for the plant to grow for a long time and bring many juicy and tasty fruits. We all know that representatives of the flora get moisture and nutrients from the soil. Through the roots they pass along the trunk and reach the branches. And if, for example, the cultivation of kiwi is characterized by a stable pace, then in peaches this whole process occurs much faster. In addition, the culture distributes the lion's share of macro- and microelements into vertically growing branches. Because of this, the crown of the tree very quickly becomes thick and lush, but at the same time, the central branches remain deprived of a sufficient amount of sunlight, become bald and not fruitful. And the fruits of the side branches will be too small to call the future harvest rich. Thus, all improperly growing branches must be cut off in time. A well-formed canopy also promotes better “ventilation” of the leaves and makes harvesting a simple and hassle-free process. Well, finally, a neatly cut peach crown looks much more attractive than branches sticking out in different directions. Such a peach tree will become a real gem of your garden.

Peach pruning in spring

Peach pruning in the first warm days of the year is carried out in order to properly form the crown. For all varieties of peach, some “forks” on the branches are very characteristic. But, as a rule, they are quite weak and easily break from sudden gusts of wind. During the winter cold, frost often forms on such branches, which only exacerbates the situation. That is why timely spring pruning is so necessary. And you need to carry it out as soon as you see the first buds on the peach, but always before flowering begins. Focus around the third week of March - mid-April.

It is important that this culture is quite sensitive and shows sharp reactions to any interference in its life. So pruning must be done exclusively with a sharp knife or secateurs. It is also recommended to pre-treat the blades with an antiseptic. When working, try to trim a particular branch in one motion. If the cut radius has a size of more than two centimeters, it is desirable to process it.

As mentioned above, it is in the spring that the crown of the tree is formed. Previously, most gardeners believed that a cup-shaped crown was best suited for peach. However, over the years of practice, growers have realized that this is not entirely true. A spreading cup-shaped crown can only be found in those trees that grow in large areas. The fact is that this form of peach crown takes up too much space, reducing the total number of fruit trees in the garden. The most optimal crown shape is pyramidal.

Spring peach pruning scheme is as follows:

  • leave four frame branches as the basis, the first tier;
  • the next tier must consist of five branches;
  • trim the branches of the first and second tiers by about one third;
  • as you grow, keep doing this so that by the fifth year of life the height of peach
  • trees did not exceed three meters;
  • all weak, diseased and overgrown branches must also be pruned.

The advantage of spring pruning is that as the buds swell, you can immediately see which of the branches will eventually become the most productive. It is to such branches that you provide the most thorough care. The rest can even be removed altogether.

Summer peach pruning

Many gardeners don't use summer peach pruning as much as spring pruning. But it also has its undoubted advantages and goals. Pruning is necessary at the beginning of summer, preferably from the second half of June until the 15th of July. It is during this period of time that the fruits form bones.

Summer peach pruning includes the following steps:

  • First you need to remove dry and weakened branches. They only pull moisture and nutrients from the peach tree, and also spoil the appearance;
  • branches that have ceased to bear fruit can be removed selectively. However, do not get too carried away, because such branches, although they do not bear fruit, are rich in greenery, which releases oxygen into the atmosphere. Foliage also plays an important role during the growing season;
  • all shoots that grow deep into the crown also need to be cut. Thanks to this, the tree will be able to receive more sunlight, due to which the fruits will be more ruddy and sweet;
  • note the fruitful branches. If the fruits grow too thick on them, then it is better to trim them a little as well. Heavy peaches can break a branch, which then has to be treated, and you won’t have to count on fruiting the next year.

Summer peach pruning can be called preventive and shaping. You can do without it, but still it is better not to neglect it. Do everything according to the rules, and juicy, large peaches are provided to you.

Peach pruning in autumn

Peach pruning in autumn is nothing more than preparing a peach tree for the coming winter. As you know, this culture grows mainly in the southern regions of Ukraine, where winters can be called relatively mild. But still the peach is very thermophilic. And the cultivation of peach, like the cultivation of pineapple, is unthinkable without preparation for frost.

So, the scheme of preparing a peach tree for winter is as follows:

  • all fruit-bearing branches without exception must be shortened;
  • the number of remaining branches must be no more than eighty;
  • Is the winter expected to be snowy? Cut off all weakened branches so that they do not break under the thickness of precipitation;
  • Any diseased branches must be cut back to the base, otherwise
  • infection can reach both the trunk and healthy branches;
  • cut branches are best burned.

Autumn pruning should begin after the harvest, which will be around mid-October. It is during this period of the year that the active growth and development of the peach ends, and the tree painlessly endures all the procedures carried out by gardeners.

Peach pruning schemes

There are several schemes for peach tree pruning. These schemes are divided into categories, depending on the reception, the age of the plant and some other features.

Ring pruning

Ring pruning is carried out in order to rejuvenate and restore a peach after an illness. Under the ring - this means under the very foundation. At the base of the tree trunk there is an annular outgrowth, which is responsible for active cell division. Thus, pruning according to this scheme allows the tree to quickly and actively regenerate

Cutting pattern for the ring:

  1. Treat the ring-shaped growth itself and your tool (hacksaw, secateurs) with an antiseptic solution.
  2. Leave 0.5 cm above the branch line. Put a mark on this place.
  3. Make a shallow cut just below the mark.
  4. Cut the entire branch 30 centimeters above the mark. Cut the branch carefully so that it does not break off abruptly and drag part of the healthy tree bark down with it.
  5. Next, cut it exactly to the mark.
  6. Apply a special healing mixture to the cut, which is available at any gardening store.

It is impossible to prune clearly along the annular growth, as it is possible to break the educational tissue in the trunk and roots, which will lead to the death of the plant.

Bud pruning

Bud pruning can not only form a beautiful crown, but also prevent it from growing too much. It is carried out by partial removal of the branch, based on the number of buds that must be left. The disadvantages of this method are that it is quite traumatic for the peach and the cuts heal for a long time.

Pruning pattern for a bud:

  1. Clean with alcohol the area of ​​the branch where you are going to cut, as well as the garden tool itself.
  2. Find out for yourself exactly how many kidneys should remain and measure 0.5 centimeters upwards from the topmost one. Put a label.
  3. Thirty centimeters up from this mark, cut the branch completely.
  4. You can now cut where the mark is.
  5. Apply healing solution to the cut.

If you want to make the crown not so dense, but lush, then trim to the outer bud (which grows outward, not deep into the crown). And if you want the branches not to be very lowered to the ground, do pruning, on the contrary, on the inner kidney.

Replacement knot pruning

Replacement knot pruning allows you to form a beautiful and healthy crown, as well as to ensure that the same branches bear fruit year after year, which will grow in the places the grower wishes. This can be done by cutting off excess shoots on the frame branch.

Substitute pruning pattern:

  1. Cut the branch using the bud method and leave two eyes.
  2. In a year, when two shoots grow from these eyes, pinch only the lower one - it will be the replacement knot.
  3. And cut off the top shoot to two eyes - it will turn into a fruitful branch.

Replacement pruning must be done every year. By the way, grapes are cut in exactly the same way.


This technique allows you to activate dormant buds or, on the contrary, slow down their development. Kerbovka is easy to make - you just need to cut a small part of the bark above or below the kidney. This technique is quite humane and will not stress the plant. Kerbovka must be carried out in early spring, so that the kidneys do not have time to wake up.

Kerbing Chart:

  1. Find the bud that needs to be worked on.
  2. If you need to "stir up" it, make an incision above it, and if you "lull it" - then below it.
  3. In any case, the distance between the kidney and the incision should not be more than 3 mm.
  4. The incision itself should be relatively deep, and not just on the bark. Make it in the form of a strip, a semicircle or a cross. The thicker the branch, the more elongated the incision.

Pruning at planting

If the peach seedling is very young, up to a year old, it is better not to cut at planting. The young tree is still too fragile to endure such intrusions into its life. Let the peach first get used to the new habitat, otherwise there is a risk that the tree will die after pruning. That is why experienced gardeners say that pruning should be done only when the peach tree is a year old after planting. So, if planted in the fall, you can cut it in the spring of next year. Use the pinching method - it is the least traumatic. Leave a pair of buds on each upper branch, and carefully cut off the top.

Pruning in the first year of life

Pruning in the first year of life will give you the opportunity to form a beautiful crown exactly the shape you want. The most common and convenient form for harvesting the future crop is bowl-shaped. If you do not want to engage in laborious peach pruning in the first year of life, you can purchase a tree immediately with a formed crown.

Peach pruning technique in the first year of life in case of choosing a cupped crown:

  1. If you notice that the seedling has grown too quickly, it should be shortened to 50-60 centimeters.
  2. The total number of tiers should be three or four, and the same number of frame branches on each.
  3. Cut them to the outer buds.
  4. If there are heavily lowered branches, they can be tied to the top ones.
  5. Pinching off the green shoots on the skeletal branches throughout the summer.
  6. In autumn, also cut back to the same level as for summer pruning.

Second year pruning

In the second year of life, the peach will begin its active growth, and it will need to be pruned regularly throughout the summer. And in autumn and spring, just try to maintain the initially selected height level, cutting off only the very top. You also need to remove side shoots and see which buds you want to keep. Follow exactly the same pattern if your peach tree is three or four years old.

Pruning in the fifth year of life

A five-year-old peach tree is already a fairly mature plant, however, it needs regular rejuvenation. Every year, cut off the top shoots from the tree that have grown longer than ten centimeters, and the new shoots that have grown on the frame branches - they will become fruit-bearing competitors. Pruning in the fifth year of life will help make this fruit tree longer.

Peach care after pruning

The peach tree needs careful care after pruning. All cuts need to be well processed. Most gardeners prefer to use not the well-known garden variety, but oil paint as a treatment solution. The fact is that the var can let in moisture, which can cause rotting. But oil paint is an excellent sealant. Before processing the sections, it is advisable to apply a disinfectant solution to them. For example, copper sulfate. Give it a few minutes to dry before moving on to the next step.

Helpful tips

  1. When pruning, keep in mind that all productive branches grow at an angle of approximately 45 degrees. This will help you at work.
  2. When pruning peach branches, leave at least two buds on each.
  3. If you want to rejuvenate a peach and return it to a high yield, cut absolutely all branches that are more than four years old.
  4. After planting a peach tree, leave only the four lower shoots on it, and cut off the rest. It is from these four that the future crown will be formed.
  5. If you want to cup the crown shape, don't skip the spring pruning.

Proper peach pruning and tree care after it is a rather time-consuming and responsible task. However, your diligence and diligence will be encouraged by a rich harvest and longevity of a fruit-bearing tree.

for a beginner, scheme, is it possible


  • Need for action
  • Suitable period for cutting peach
  • Summer form pruning
  • Peach pruning chart
    • Removal of unwanted shoots
  • Conclusion

Fruit trees require regular care when grown. Peach pruning in the summer is the most important of the activities for the formation and rejuvenation of the crown, which contributes to the growth and development of the tree.

Need for action

Proper pruning is very important for peach crops. It helps the development of branches, stimulates an increase in yield and affects the quality of the fruit. All nutrients pass through the trunk of the fruit tree. Peach trees are distinguished by the rate of absorption of fertilizers passing through the trunk and the expenditure of a considerable amount of minerals for the growth of vertically directed branches.

Growers must take into account the characteristics of the culture, otherwise there is a risk of too rapid thickening of the top and inhibition of fruit development. Lack of sunlight will not only reduce yields, but also affect the taste of fruits, which become smaller and sour in taste from lack of light.

Planned pruning is required to:

  • there was a uniform formation of the top, which contributes to the correct distribution of nutrients and their savings;
  • cutting out unnecessary branches that thicken the crown helps to simplify the harvesting process;
  • a beautiful, well-groomed plant will become a decorative ornament of any suburban area.

Suitable period for cutting peach

The formation of the crown of a tree occurs from spring to autumn, summer pruning is important, which rejuvenates the plant and helps to reduce harmful insects on it.

The beginner needs to know that summer is the best time for pruning. This is explained by the fact that in the summer the peach culture spends a huge amount of nutrients on the growth of shoots, but if pruned in the autumn, the tree will give few flower ovaries in the spring and will spend all its strength on restoring the cut shoots and developing after hibernation.

Following this theory, the gardener will need to wait until the soil warms up to +20 °C. The purpose of summer pruning is also to unload the branches of the tree from fruit overload.

Summer form pruning

There are several ways to shape the top of the tree:

  • high trunk;
  • low;
  • cupped.

Low topping is a technique that leaves a maximum of 3 tiers of skeletal shoots. Pruning with a low trunk involves shortening the upper tier: the forming branch is shortened to 1.5 m in height.

The use of this method is suitable for columnar varieties, most of the fruiting ovaries are formed on the 2nd tier. Columnar trees do not grow more than 2 m. The disadvantages of this debranching technique is a small yield.

Forming pruning with a high trunk promotes tree development and increased fruitfulness due to the removal of only the first tiers of branches, but there is a drawback of the technique - a high probability of the formation of fungal infections.

In the summer, cupping is done. As a result of such care, special advantages open up for the gardener.

  1. The cupped shape allows more sunlight to reach the fruits, making them sweeter.
  2. Due to its compactness, the cup-shaped shape allows the plant to be protected from frost.
  3. Easy to process wood.

For the top of the peach to take the shape of a bowl, cut off the main branch and leave a few strong branches, which are pinned in order to direct their growth to a horizontal position.

Watch this video on YouTube

Peach pruning chart

Summer peach pruning, just like in any other period, requires careful preparation. The gardener should have the following tools with him: a sharply sharpened knife, a pruner, a hand saw with fine teeth. Tools must not only be sharpened sharply, they must also be kept in a dry room so as not to be exposed to moisture. After each use, the inventory is cleaned of all organic residues, it can be wrapped in a cloth.

Tools should be disinfected to control infection, especially if they have been used to remove spore-infested areas on a tree. For normal processing, ethyl alcohol can be used to wipe the cutting surface. Soaking in a solution of potassium permanganate is excellent. If treatment against the fungus is required, it is better to use the drug "Pharmaiod".

After any processing, the inventory must be dried and placed in the place allotted for it.

Removal of unwanted shoots

Pruning should be done at the beginning of summer, when the fruit begins to form. The scheme for removing shoots must be strictly observed.

  1. Dry, sluggish shoots should be removed, they may be infected with dangerous fungal infections.
  2. The pruning scheme involves the removal of branches that do not bear fruit. It is easy to recognize such shoots - they contain a huge number of leaf plates, but you should not rush to cut everything clean, the tree needs leaf cover, thanks to which it receives the necessary supply of oxygen.
  3. The dense top should be thinned out at the beginning of the summer period so that excessive density does not interfere with the ripening of the fruits and does not cause the settling of insects.
  4. Branches containing many fruits are subject to shortening, they are pruned in order to avoid breaking.

Watch this YouTube video

Peach Care Rules: