How to prune a snowball tree


How to Prune Snowball Bushes | Home Guides

By Laura Reynolds Updated December 17, 2018

The term “snowball bush” is an example of the confusion caused by the use of common plant names based on appearance or features. Chinese viburnum (Viburnum macrocephalum), Annabelle hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens "Annabelle") and panicle hydrangea (H. paniculata) are all called snowball bushes. In Southern gardens, smooth-leaf hydrangea (H. macrophylla) is also called snowball. Prune these shrubs based on how they form their flowers. Annabelle and panicle hydrangeas form blooms on new wood each summer, but Chinese viburnum and smooth leaf hydrangea bloom earlier on last year’s growth.

New-Growth Bloomers

  1. 1.

    Prune summer-blooming Annabelle and panicle hydrangeas anytime after the first hard freeze through late winter. Cut back dead or diseased branches any time they appear.

  2. 2.

    Cut branches on Annabelles back to between 4 and 10 inches tall each year. Pruning closer to the ground encourages fewer, larger flowers. Leaving longer stems results in branching, which leads to more, smaller flowers.

  3. 3.

    Prune panicle hydrangeas such as “Limelight” or “Tardiva” back to within 4 to 6 inches of the main stem.

  4. 4.

    Cut just above a growth node -- the thick nodules where buds grow -- on stems to encourage branching on panicle hydrangea or on Annabelle shrubs you wish to encourage to branch out.

Old-Growth Bloomers

  1. 1.

    Prune smooth-leaf hydrangea and Chinese viburnum after they finish blooming in summer or early fall. Do not prune either after August 1. Cut back dead or diseased branches anytime they appear.

  2. 2.

    Deadhead, or remove, flower heads after they fade. Cut shoots back, also called heading back, one-third their length to encourage branching. Make cuts on branches above growth nodes to encourage branching.

  3. 3.

    Remove older limbs in mature Chinese viburnum when flowers form predominantly on the upper part of the shrub. Cut from one to three of the oldest branches back to the ground to renew the shrub. You may cut up to one-third of the old stems from overgrown smooth-leaf hydrangeas to the ground to renew them. Renewal may affect the succeeding year’s bloom, so limit its use to overgrown plants or plants whose bloom has fallen off.

    Things You Will Need
    Tip

    H. macrophylla, H. paniculata and V. macrocephalum snowball bushes respond to complete renewal -- cutting the shrub to the ground -- but may take more than one season to resume heavy blooming. Annabelles will bloom as usual if cut to the ground during winter. Hydrangeas and viburnums will respond to heavy pruning by suckering -- sending up new branches. Cut these back when they appear if you want to limit the spread of your snowball bush. Sterilize cutting tools with a 10 percent solution of household bleach and water or isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol before cutting branches and after finishing each plant.

    Warning

    Identify existing snowball bush shrubs before pruning and complete pruning at the correct time. In addition to being time-critical, annual pruning needs vary: For example, viburnum requires little regular pruning, while Annabelle stays tidy but productive only with annual renewal pruning.

References

  • Clemson Cooperative Extension: Viburnum
  • Phillip Oliver: Chinese Snowball
  • Georgia Gold Medal Plants: 2006 Shrub Winner
  • Royal Horticultural Society: Viburnum opulus "Roseum" AGM
  • University of Georgia Cooperative Extension: Growing Bigleaf Hydrangea
  • Auburn University Extension: Hydrangea
  • University of Rhode Island Extension: Pruning Deciduous Shrubs

Writer Bio

An avid perennial gardener and old house owner, Laura Reynolds has had careers in teaching and juvenile justice. A retired municipal judgem Reynolds holds a degree in communications from Northern Illinois University. Her six children and stepchildren served as subjects of editorials during her tenure as a local newspaper editor.

Snowball Bush Guide: Common Questions Answered – BrighterBlooms.com

The Snowball Bush is easy to care for and maintain and makes a great focal point for the center of a large yard or for the corner of a foundation planting. It is commonly grown as an ornamental plant for its flowers and berries. Being semi-evergreen, Snowballs create a beautiful spring and fall display in any landscape.

And in the late spring, this deciduous, colored flowering shrub will be covered with masses of pure white, snowball-like flower clusters, with leaves that turn purplish-red before dropping in the fall.

Types of Snowball Bushes

Different types of Snowball Bushes require different types of care. The Snowball Bush or its scientific name, viburnum plicatum, is sometimes simply called Snowball Viburnum for short.

Different Snowball Viburnum Types Include:
  • V. burkwoodii - Smaller with a fragrant, spicy aroma, this variety grows to 10 feet tall.
  • V. carlcephalum - Known as 'fragrant snowball,' this variety is smaller with a more noticeable fragrance.

Snowball viburnum should not be confused with Hydrangea arborescens. Though care for both has similarities, it's important to know which variety you have.

Common Names of Snowball Viburnum Bushes Include:
  • American Snowball Tree
  • Japanese Snowball Tree
    • Easy-growing yet super elegant, the Japanese Snowball Bush is known for its full white blooms and vibrant green foliage that welcome spring. The Snowball's flowers emerge a striking lime-green in late spring and gradually turn to snowy-white in mid-May, retaining their color for several weeks at a time.
  • Blue Snowball Bush
  • Chinese Snowball Bush

When Do Snowball Bushes Bloom?

Eastern Snowball Bushes begin to bloom in late spring, while Japanese Snowball Trees provide fragrant bulbs earlier in the spring season.

How Fast Do Snowball Bushes Grow?

The tallest varieties of Viburnum grow up to two feet per year. Shorter dwarf varieties grow at a slower pace. When fully mature, the Snowball Bush will grow large, up to 12 tall and 15 feet wide.

Snowball Bush Care

How to Plant a Snowball Bush in 7 Steps
1. Remove and discard grass and weeds from the planting site.
2. Dig a hole that is shallow and broad.

The hole should be about three times the diameter of the root ball, but no deeper than the root ball.

3. Carefully remove the snowball bush from its container and, using your hands, gently loosen any outside roots from the sides and bottom.

Take care not to break or damage the roots of the bush.

4. Place the bush in the center of the hole so the root crown is about 1.5 to 2 inches above the surrounding ground level.

The root crown is the part of a bush where the trunk meets the roots.

5. Backfill the hole with the original soil.
6. Water thoroughly right after planting to soak the planting area and settle the soil.
7. Spread mulch or wood chips about 4 inches deep over the entire planting area to help retain moisture and cut down on weeds.

How Far Apart Should Snowball Bushes Be Planted?

You should provide at least 12 feet between bushes if planting in a row, and keep them pruned. Snowball Bushes should be planted in tracts that are at least three times as wide as they are tall. At maturity, Snowball Bushes can be very tall and wide (up to 20 feet in each direction for Viburnum macrocephalum), and their branches shoot out from the center.

Can You Start a Snowball Bush from a Cutting?

If your Snowball is already mature, you can grow more bushes using cuttings from a healthy plant. Test branches to see if the wood is soft. If the branch bends before breaking in two, it can be cut off using sharp pruning shears and planted stem-down to grow new bushes.

When to Plant Your Snowball Bush

Whether you're transplanting a sapling, using cuttings, or planting a mature Snowball Bush, knowing the best times to plan helps you understand what to expect.

The best time to plant a Snowball Bush is either in the fall or spring, depending on the variety of the bush, its age, and your hardiness zone.

Where to Plant Your Snowball Bush

Snowball Bushes flourish when given six to eight hours of full sun outdoors.

These bushes need moist, humus-rich, moderately alkaline soil that drains well, so you may need to amend the soil before planting.

How to Grow a Snowball Bush

Just before spring, feed your Snowball Bush with a water-soluble fertilizer or granulated fertilizer. Keep the soil moist by applying mulch.

Snowball Bush pruning best practices depend on the type of Snowball you have and on your goal with pruning. The Snowball Viburnum is a deciduous shrub, so it sheds its leaves in the fall and blooms form on old wood.

If you're training your Snowball Viburnum Shrub to provide a lot of blooms, prune it back in spring after it has begun blooming to encourage more growth. On the other hand, if the branches have become too long and you're more concerned with shaping a mature bush, cut back one-third of the canes in fall to thin out the base.

The fastest way to begin enjoying a Snowball Bush is by planting a mature plant. Snowball bushes make a great statement in your garden and can be planted in succession to create a living privacy fence. Shop for Viburnum Shrubs today, and make your landscape the envy of the neighborhood!

How to cut a peach correctly - Flowers.ua

It is difficult to meet a person who would not like juicy peach fruits. But in order to grow them, gardeners will need to make a lot of effort. The peach tree is a rather demanding crop that needs careful and regular care. And pruning is one of the primary procedures, without which you are unlikely to get a well-bearing tree. Even novice flower growers can grow a peach, but if you have any questions, you can always consult with our experts day and night. Also pay attention to bouquets with delivery. Sending flowers in Kyiv and other cities of Ukraine daily

Why pruning is necessary

Peach pruning is necessary for the plant to grow for a long time and bring many juicy and tasty fruits. We all know that representatives of the flora get moisture and nutrients from the soil. Through the roots they pass along the trunk and reach the branches. And if, for example, the cultivation of kiwi is characterized by a stable pace, then in peaches this whole process occurs much faster. In addition, the culture distributes the lion's share of macro- and microelements into vertically growing branches. Because of this, the crown of the tree very quickly becomes thick and lush, but at the same time, the central branches remain deprived of a sufficient amount of sunlight, become bald and not fruitful. And the fruits of the side branches will be too small to call the future harvest rich. Thus, all improperly growing branches must be cut off in time. A well-formed canopy also promotes better “ventilation” of the leaves and makes harvesting a simple and hassle-free process. Well, finally, a neatly cut peach crown looks much more attractive than branches sticking out in different directions. Such a peach tree will become a real gem of your garden.

Peach pruning in spring

Peach pruning in the first warm days of the year is carried out in order to properly form the crown. For all varieties of peach, some “forks” on the branches are very characteristic. But, as a rule, they are quite weak and easily break from sudden gusts of wind. During the winter cold, frost often forms on such branches, which only exacerbates the situation. That is why timely spring pruning is so necessary. And you need to carry it out as soon as you see the first buds on the peach, but always before flowering begins. Focus around the third week of March - mid-April.

It is important that this culture is quite sensitive and shows sharp reactions to any interference in its life. So pruning must be done exclusively with a sharp knife or secateurs. It is also recommended to pre-treat the blades with an antiseptic. When working, try to trim a particular branch in one motion. If the cut radius has a size of more than two centimeters, it is desirable to process it.

As mentioned above, it is in the spring that the crown of the tree is formed. Previously, most gardeners believed that a cup-shaped crown was best suited for peach. However, over the years of practice, growers have realized that this is not entirely true. A spreading cup-shaped crown can only be found in those trees that grow in large areas. The fact is that this form of peach crown takes up too much space, reducing the total number of fruit trees in the garden. The most optimal crown shape is pyramidal.

Spring peach pruning scheme is as follows:

  • leave four frame branches as the basis, the first tier;
  • the next tier must consist of five branches;
  • trim the branches of the first and second tiers by about one third;
  • as you grow, keep doing this so that by the fifth year of life the height of peach
  • trees did not exceed three meters;
  • all weak, diseased and overgrown branches must also be pruned.

The advantage of spring pruning is that as the buds swell, you can immediately see which of the branches will eventually become the most productive. It is to such branches that you provide the most thorough care. The rest can even be removed altogether.

Summer peach pruning

Many gardeners don't use summer peach pruning as much as spring pruning. But it also has its undoubted advantages and goals. Pruning is necessary at the beginning of summer, preferably from the second half of June until the 15th of July. It is during this period of time that the fruits form bones.

Summer peach pruning includes the following steps:

  • First you need to remove dry and weakened branches. They only pull moisture and nutrients from the peach tree, and also spoil the appearance;
  • branches that have ceased to bear fruit can be removed selectively. However, do not get too carried away, because such branches, although they do not bear fruit, are rich in greenery, which releases oxygen into the atmosphere. Foliage also plays an important role during the growing season;
  • all shoots that grow deep into the crown also need to be cut. Thanks to this, the tree will be able to receive more sunlight, due to which the fruits will be more ruddy and sweet;
  • note the fruitful branches. If the fruits grow too thick on them, then it is better to trim them a little as well. Heavy peaches can break a branch, which then has to be treated, and you won’t have to count on fruiting the next year.

Summer peach pruning can be called preventive and shaping. You can do without it, but still it is better not to neglect it. Do everything according to the rules, and juicy, large peaches are provided to you.

Peach pruning in autumn

Peach pruning in autumn is nothing more than preparing a peach tree for the coming winter. As you know, this culture grows mainly in the southern regions of Ukraine, where winters can be called relatively mild. But still the peach is very thermophilic. And the cultivation of peach, like the cultivation of pineapple, is unthinkable without preparation for frost.

So, the scheme of preparing a peach tree for winter is as follows:

  • all fruit-bearing branches without exception must be shortened;
  • the number of remaining branches must be no more than eighty;
  • Is the winter expected to be snowy? Cut off all weakened branches so that they do not break under the thickness of precipitation;
  • Any diseased branches must be cut back to the base, otherwise
  • infection can reach both the trunk and healthy branches;
  • cut branches are best burned.

Autumn pruning should begin after the harvest, which will be around mid-October. It is during this period of the year that the active growth and development of the peach ends, and the tree painlessly endures all the procedures carried out by gardeners.

Peach pruning schemes

There are several schemes for peach tree pruning. These schemes are divided into categories, depending on the reception, the age of the plant and some other features.

Ring pruning

Ring pruning is carried out in order to rejuvenate and restore a peach after an illness. Under the ring - this means under the very foundation. At the base of the tree trunk there is an annular outgrowth, which is responsible for active cell division. Thus, pruning according to this scheme allows the tree to quickly and actively regenerate

Cutting pattern for the ring:

  1. Treat the ring-shaped growth itself and your tool (hacksaw, secateurs) with an antiseptic solution.
  2. Leave 0.5 cm above the branch line. Put a mark on this place.
  3. Make a shallow cut just below the mark.
  4. Cut the entire branch 30 centimeters above the mark. Cut the branch carefully so that it does not break off abruptly and drag part of the healthy tree bark down with it.
  5. Next, cut it exactly to the mark.
  6. Apply a special healing mixture to the cut, which is available at any gardening store.

It is impossible to prune clearly along the annular growth, as it is possible to break the educational tissue in the trunk and roots, which will lead to the death of the plant.

Bud pruning

Bud pruning can not only form a beautiful crown, but also prevent it from growing too much. It is carried out by partial removal of the branch, based on the number of buds that must be left. The disadvantages of this method are that it is quite traumatic for the peach and the cuts heal for a long time.

Pruning pattern for a bud:

  1. Clean with alcohol the area of ​​the branch where you are going to cut, as well as the garden tool itself.
  2. Find out for yourself exactly how many kidneys should remain and measure 0.5 centimeters upwards from the topmost one. Put a label.
  3. Thirty centimeters up from this mark, cut the branch completely.
  4. You can now cut where the mark is.
  5. Apply healing solution to the cut.

If you want to make the crown not so dense, but lush, then trim to the outer bud (which grows outward, not deep into the crown). And if you want the branches not to be very lowered to the ground, do pruning, on the contrary, on the inner kidney.

Replacement knot pruning

Replacement knot pruning allows you to form a beautiful and healthy crown, as well as to ensure that the same branches bear fruit year after year, which will grow in the places the grower wishes. This can be done by cutting off excess shoots on the frame branch.

Substitute pruning pattern:

  1. Cut the branch using the bud method and leave two eyes.
  2. In a year, when two shoots grow from these eyes, pinch only the lower one - it will be the replacement knot.
  3. And cut off the top shoot to two eyes - it will turn into a fruitful branch.

Replacement pruning must be done every year. By the way, grapes are cut in exactly the same way.

Kerbovka

This technique allows you to activate dormant buds or, on the contrary, slow down their development. Kerbovka is easy to make - you just need to cut a small part of the bark above or below the kidney. This technique is quite humane and will not stress the plant. Kerbovka must be carried out in early spring, so that the kidneys do not have time to wake up.

Kerbing Chart:

  1. Find the bud that needs to be worked on.
  2. If you need to "stir up" it, make an incision above it, and if you "lull it" - then below it.
  3. In any case, the distance between the kidney and the incision should not be more than 3 mm.
  4. The incision itself should be relatively deep, and not just on the bark. Make it in the form of a strip, a semicircle or a cross. The thicker the branch, the more elongated the incision.

Pruning at planting

If the peach seedling is very young, up to a year old, it is better not to cut at planting. The young tree is still too fragile to endure such intrusions into its life. Let the peach first get used to the new habitat, otherwise there is a risk that the tree will die after pruning. That is why experienced gardeners say that pruning should be done only when the peach tree is a year old after planting. So, if planted in the fall, you can cut it in the spring of next year. Use the pinching method - it is the least traumatic. Leave a pair of buds on each upper branch, and carefully cut off the top.

Pruning in the first year of life

Pruning in the first year of life will give you the opportunity to form a beautiful crown exactly the shape you want. The most common and convenient form for harvesting the future crop is bowl-shaped. If you do not want to engage in laborious peach pruning in the first year of life, you can purchase a tree immediately with a formed crown.

Peach pruning technique in the first year of life in case of choosing a cupped crown:

  1. If you notice that the seedling has grown too quickly, it should be shortened to 50-60 centimeters.
  2. The total number of tiers should be three or four, and the same number of frame branches on each.
  3. Cut them to the outer buds.
  4. If there are heavily lowered branches, they can be tied to the top ones.
  5. Pinching off the green shoots on the skeletal branches throughout the summer.
  6. In autumn, also cut back to the same level as for summer pruning.

Second year pruning

In the second year of life, the peach will begin its active growth, and it will need to be pruned regularly throughout the summer. And in autumn and spring, just try to maintain the initially selected height level, cutting off only the very top. You also need to remove side shoots and see which buds you want to keep. Follow exactly the same pattern if your peach tree is three or four years old.

Pruning in the fifth year of life

A five-year-old peach tree is already a fairly mature plant, however, it needs regular rejuvenation. Every year, cut off the top shoots from the tree that have grown longer than ten centimeters, and the new shoots that have grown on the frame branches - they will become fruit-bearing competitors. Pruning in the fifth year of life will help make this fruit tree longer.

Peach care after pruning

The peach tree needs careful care after pruning. All cuts need to be well processed. Most gardeners prefer to use not the well-known garden variety, but oil paint as a treatment solution. The fact is that the var can let in moisture, which can cause rotting. But oil paint is an excellent sealant. Before processing the sections, it is advisable to apply a disinfectant solution to them. For example, copper sulfate. Give it a few minutes to dry before moving on to the next step.

Helpful tips

  1. When pruning, keep in mind that all productive branches grow at an angle of approximately 45 degrees. This will help you at work.
  2. When pruning peach branches, leave at least two buds on each.
  3. If you want to rejuvenate a peach and return it to a high yield, cut absolutely all branches that are more than four years old.
  4. After planting a peach tree, leave only the four lower shoots on it, and cut off the rest. It is from these four that the future crown will be formed.
  5. If you want to cup the crown shape, don't skip the spring pruning.

Proper peach pruning and tree care after it is a rather time-consuming and responsible task. However, your diligence and diligence will be encouraged by a rich harvest and longevity of a fruit-bearing tree.

How to trim a plum?

Growing a plum tree is not very difficult: it needs to be watered, fed, and also cut. Pruning a garden plum, done regularly and in a timely manner, helps to form a tree that will delight with large yields. Sanitary pruning is done twice a year , and shaping and rejuvenating pruning is also needed, which are carried out as needed. You need to know how to prune a plum correctly so as not to harm it, but to prolong the life and ensure the health of the plant.

Why is plum pruning necessary?

If this procedure is not carried out, the fruit tree runs wild, gets sick, it is more and more affected by pests, crops deteriorate and disappear altogether. The fruits become small and tasteless. Also, pruning fruit trees is necessary to form a beautiful crown. If you do not shorten and cut off the branches, they thicken the crown, grow inward. Such an overgrown tree gets sick more easily, dries up, frosts hit it, a snow cap and ice stay on it for a long time, because of which the branches break. The formation of a plum crown is very important. If the branches do not grow properly, they do not allow new fruit shoots to grow. In the crown, which is not thinned out, pests and fungi live. From this, the plum tree becomes ill and dies.

So, plum pruning is necessary for the tree to be healthy and beautiful, well ventilated and evenly lit. Only on such a tree healthy fruits are formed in large quantities. They get enough nutrients and light, which makes them delicious.

Trimming basics

To cut the branches, garden shears or pruners are used, the cuts are treated with artificial bark Lac-balm. For the first time, the plum is cut in the second year. First of all, diseased and dry branches are removed. The number of prunings and the timing of pruning depends on the climate in the area where the plum tree grows. In the northern, cold regions, autumn pruning is not carried out, since the tree will not have time to properly winter. Autumn is suitable only for the removal of dry and diseased branches, which must be removed in any case. Typically, gardeners prune plums in the spring.

When shaping the plum, you need to strive for the shape of the bowl. Such a crown is optimal: it is easier to care for it, it is evenly lit and ventilated, and it is more convenient to collect fruits from it. To form a bowl, three main branches are left - the strongest and strongest, which go from the trunk at an angle of 120 degrees. All branches that are knocked out of this even bowl are removed.

Cutting pattern

They start the procedure from the bottom - they remove weak, diseased, underdeveloped branches to healthy buds. After that, cut off the upper branches. As mentioned above, the optimal shape is a bowl. But it is also possible to form a sparse-tiered crown with a stem of 50 cm, a pyramid or a ball. The crown is not formed in one year. First, the branches are shortened to the first or second kidney. The following year, in the spring, the crown is thinned out from thickening shoots, leaving the strongest of them. Each year, the growing branches are cut by a third. When the tree grows to 2.5 - 3 meters, the top is removed from it to prevent further growth. If this is not done, the plum will grow more than 10 meters.


If a young shoot appears from the roots, it must also be removed, cutting off from the mother plant and uprooting even small roots and stumps from the ground.

When is the best time to prune a plum?

Optimal - in autumn and spring . Summer pruning should only be done when diseased or broken branches need to be removed. You can also do summer pruning of young seedlings - they remove a third of the main branch and two thirds - side shoots. So the plant develops the root system more actively, and not the crown. This is important at the very beginning of the life of a plum tree.

In adult plants in the summer, only vertical shoots can be removed - diseased or dry. Horizontal branches are not removed during summer pruning - fruits are formed on them.

Spring pruning

This is the best time for the pruning procedure, as the wounds on the plant will have time to heal well. It is better to prune the tree in March or April, when the movement of juices has not yet begun in it. During spring pruning, inner shoots that grow incorrectly are removed. From cut off entirely, without leaving stumps and knots. In order for the side branches to develop better, in the spring you need to pinch last year's shoots.

Summer pruning

It is best done in June or July. Newly planted young plants are treated or only diseased branches are removed from adult trees. In summer, if weak shoots are not removed, they can become a breeding ground for diseases. It is better to remove diseased branches than to treat the plum with chemicals.

Autumn pruning

It is held in September or October. The main thing is to have time before freezing so that the plant can recover after processing. In autumn, the crown is thinned out so that the branches do not break under a heavy snow cap or ice. Shoots are shortened by two-thirds. Diseased, dry, broken branches affected by insects are also completely removed. If this is not done, the risk of frostbite and the death of the entire tree increases.


How plums are formed by years

In the first few years, it is especially important to prune the tree correctly. This becomes the key to the formation of a healthy, beautiful and well-bearing plant.

First year

Immediately after planting, the seedling is not recommended to be touched in summer or autumn. He needs to give a few months to adapt. The next year after planting, when the snow has melted, but the buds have not yet appeared and the movement of juices has not begun, the lower branches on the trunk are completely removed. The stem should be 40-50 cm high from the ground. The remaining branches that form the crown are cut to half the length. The main trunk is shortened to one and a half meters. In summer, pruning is repeated, shortening new shoots by 20 cm from the trunk, and shoots on skeletal branches by 15 cm.

Second year

Plum pruning is needed, in which improperly growing shoots are removed. They are cut along the lower kidney. If a lot of new shoots have appeared on the tree, they are left no longer than 20 cm, the upper branches - no more than 30 cm. So the entire crown will be evenly illuminated and ventilated.

How are different crown shapes formed?

From the second year, plum forming pruning begins. Five to seven main branches are left, growing in two to three tiers at a distance of about 30 cm from each other. Their length should not exceed 60 cm. Each main branch should have several branches. Such a crown is called sparse-tiered. Please note that horizontal branches must be left - it is on them that fruits are formed. Remove vertical shoots, which will only make the crown denser.

If you need a bowl-shaped crown, in the first year in summer the seedling is cut, leaving the central conductor up to 60 cm from the ground. In the second year, several main branches will emerge from one point. During the season, they are not touched, the shoots are allowed to develop freely, and in August or autumn they are pinched. In the third year, the skeletal branches are cut so that 10 buds remain on each. The rest of the branches are cut into a couple of buds.

Bush drain

To obtain such a form, especially resistant to frost, in the first year the seedling is cut to 60 cm, leaving a few shoots below the cut line. In the second year, skeletal branches are cut to 40 cm. Shoots above 30 cm are cut into a ring. The branches grown from the previous year are cut by 20 cm. To maintain shape, the shoots are cut by 50 cm, and then only sanitary pruning is carried out.

Cropping according to Kurdyumov

Tiers are formed, but in the second year the shoots are cut by 15 cm, tops are removed - thin and weak branches. Last year's branches are bent down so that the growth angle does not exceed 80 degrees. In the third year, the same is done with the following overgrown branches. Due to this, the fruits on the lower branches appear earlier.

Youth pruning

Plum tree grows on average 25 years, its height reaches three meters. During all this time, sanitary and shaping circumcisions are performed. When the tree is 10 years old, its trunk is cut and the frame branches are partially removed. They are cut down under the base, preventing breaking off. All skeletal branches cannot be removed at the same time, otherwise the tree will die. It is better to cut down a couple of main branches every spring. Young shoots will appear from them. After that, drying and diseased branches are removed from the old plum, leaving the young ones to grow without restrictions.

How to trim the columnar plum

This type of plum tree does not have large side branches. Their length does not exceed 30 cm. They are cut off only for sanitary purposes: sick and damaged ones are removed. The main conductor must not be touched, otherwise the side branches will grow, that is, the plum will cease to be columnar, and the yield will noticeably decrease.

Root pruning

Mature plants may grow shoots from the base. These new shoots take nutrients from the tree, which causes fewer fruits, the fruits lose their richness of taste. If you do not plan to propagate the plum, this growth must be removed. It cannot be simply cut with a pruner or cut off with a shovel, because the roots of these young plants will remain in the soil and will draw all the juices onto themselves. They are dug in the ground, cut off from the maternal root system. It is important to uproot all these new roots, hemp, so that new shoots do not grow from them.

How to care for a tree after pruning?

Any sawing, pruning injures the plant, so after the procedure, the plum tree must be properly looked after. So it will receive less stress and recover faster, begin to bear fruit.

Care rules:

  • all procedures are performed with clean, well-sharpened instruments;
  • do not break off or cut branches;
  • cut points must be cleaned with a knife and treated with Lac Balsam, a weak solution of potassium permanganate, charcoal or activated carbon;
  • after pruning, the tree should be regularly and timely watered and fed.

In order for the plum to recover as best as possible, it should be cut in the spring.


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