How to prune pomelo tree

Pomelo tree - How to grow & care

How to grow Pomelo tree growing condition and care:

Well-drained soil, better loamy soil, moist soil in the fruits season and better to put mulch

How to care:
Design for easy to pick the fruits (when there are thorns it’s important but not all cultivars have thorns), add to the soil, organic matter, humus and fertilizer, in location with hot summer sun that the main trunk is expose to the sun better to better to whitewash (lime paint)

What is the best way to start growing:
Plant / Seed / Cutting / Air layering

Propagate by cutting:
Propagating require: sterilize knife, sterilize soil (put the soil in microwave), soil that will keep moist like: peat soil, coconut coir or peat moss, better to do it in in temperature of 25-28C (77-82F) possible higher, high humidity, moist soil (don’t let it dry), use root growth hormone and when growing from cutting it’s important, to give humidity that will be like fog

Is it necessary to graft or cutting?
Yes, necessary to ensure the existent of the fruits and quality of the fruits and there are different parameters: size, taste (sweet, sour or something in between), juicy or dry, amount of seeds or seedless, season of the fruits (different cultivars have different dates for the fruits), better to graft more than one cultivar or more than on citrus.

Cutting need to use for the base of the tree for: disease-free, base that fit for different soils, resistance for drought, base that won’t resist for grafting or specific cultivar for the fruits.

Difficulties/Problems with growing Pomelo plant:
When the tree young very sensitive to citrus leaf miner, some cultivars with thorns.

Planting season:
Spring to summer in hardiness zone 9-10a, spring or autumn hardiness zone 10b-11a, possible also in summer and winter the main problem it’s hot and cold days that might cause future problem and even kill the plant, hardiness zone 11b+ planted all year

How to plant:
Dig a hole as deep as the current root ball plus extra 20-40%, put in the hole organic matter, hummus and dried leaves and mix it with some soil, put the tree and loos little bit the root ball above the hole, plant the tree and cover it and don’t push the soil too much strong but not too much lightly because it won’t be stable, after planting put mulch to keep moist on soil, put water, for the next two weeks put every day (better in the morning) , better to take that the tree will be stable, and if not support it with bamboo or a stick that it won’t fall.

Pests and diseases:
Citrus leaf miner, aphids, citrus foot rot, ant, citrus gummosis

Pruning season:
End of the winter beginning of the spring (after the fruits)

How to prune:
Dead branch, cross branch, density branch growth – when the tree grow in high density it’s prevent

Size of the plant:
Height 3-7 m, 10-21 feet


Growth speed in optimal condition:
Medium growing to slow growing

Pummelo requirements for Irrigation and Water Management:
Average amount of water to big amount of water with good drainage, need to increase the amount of water in the fruits season especially when the fruit become bigger if there are rains need to check that it’s enough, if not the fruit will be dry or crack hole.

Light conditions in optimal condition for growing:
Full Sun and possible to grow in half shade in the right care but will produce less fruits

Is it possible to grow indoor as houseplant?
No, but possible to grow next to window with sun that possible, grow it as dwarf tree and will take more time to get fruits

Growing also possible in pots, planter, flowerpot, containers:
Yes, when grow in container need to choose the desirable container if it’s small plant it directly if it’s a big container bigger than 30%-50% than the root ball, every time that the tree arrive to full capacity need to switch to bigger until arrives to desirable size, better to switch the soil once in few years soil lose the viability over time and it’s efficient of care for the tree, when it’s not possible to switch all the soil just part of the soil in the side of the roots (don’t afraid from root cutting), it will bear fruits also in 5-10gallon (40 liter) container (but bigger is better), drainage it’s important and need to make holes and to use peat soil and maybe some lava grit in the bottom or something like that, put a bottom for the container and when water the plant let it fill the bottom but also need to dry in the same day, better to grow as dwarf tree or to grow it as bonsai.

Blooming information

When does Honey Pomelo tree bloom?
Winter, spring

General information about Pummelo flower:
Flowers are white with yellow stamen

Thinning / Deadheading the Blossom:
In the first years should thinning the flowers

Pollination is done by:

Edible fruits

Pomelo fruit season – When to harvest:
Autumn / Winter

Pests or diseases in Pomelo fruit:
Citrus stubborn disease, citrus black spot, alternaria

What uses can be with big quantities of Pummelo fruit?
Eat, juice, the rind used fragrant, fruit leather, sugary rind, jam

Work requirements on the Pummelo greapefruit fruit:
Pick up (sometimes cut branches that grow into the fruit)

How long does it take to bear Pomelo fruit?
2-3 years

Ripening of Jabong fruit
Possible to pick up the fruit before and let them ripening them in the house

How to grow Pomelo tree from seeds

Sowing requirement:
Moist soil, well-drained soil, 20-27C temperature and better in sunny location

Saving and care seeds until sowing:
Dry, dark location in room temperature

Sowing season:
Spring to early summer (possible also summer to autumn)

How to plant:
Planting in soil that keep moist, cover the seed lightly

Planting spacing:
Better in separate pots, direct on the place 3*4m (10*13 feet), for transplant 5*5 cm (2*2 inches)

Depth of Sowing:
2cm (1inches)

Conditions for seeds germinate:
Keep the soil and don’t let it dry, rich soil and sunny location

Watering requires for Seeds:
Average amount of water

Germination time:
2-4 weeks, but can take longer

Condition of seedling:
If there is Citrus leaf miner in one of the trees in the area, better to put it in greenhouse or indoor to protect the tree, young tree very sensitive to citrus leaf miners, better to cover the soil with mulch.

Scientific name:

Citrus maxima

Alternative names: Pomela, Honey Pomelo, Pomelo grapefruit, Pummelo, Jabong tree, Shaddock, Pommelo, Pumelo, Citrus grandis, Chinese pomelo tree,

Categories of growing

Planting Season: Autumn Planting, Spring Planting, Summer planting

Light exposure requirements: Full sun Plants

Climates that the plant can grow: Mediterranean Climate, Subtropics Climate, Tropics Climate

Growing speed of the plant: Average growing plants

Plant life-form: Evergreen, Perennial plant, Tree

Plant Uses: Edible plants, Ornamental plants

Requirements for watering the plant: Regularly water, Small amounts of water

Hardiness zones: Hardiness zone 10, Hardiness zone 11, Hardiness zone 12, Hardiness zone 13

Ornamental parts: Ornamental fruit, Ornamental leaves, Ornamental plant

Leaf color:

Blooming season: Autumn flowers, Summer flowers

Flower colors: White flower

Harvest Season: Autumn Harvest, Winter harvest

Edible Parts: Edible Fruit

Culinary uses: Alcoholic beverages, Beverage, Dried fruit, Eaten raw, Fruit, Ice pop & Ice cream plants, Juice

How to Prune a Grapefruit Tree

Grapefruit trees are both gorgeous to look at and easy to grow. This makes them an excellent choice of backyard fruit tree for both hobby gardeners and experienced green-thumbs alike.

Like most citrus trees, they don’t require much maintenance, and when pruning is undertaken, it is usually to improve the overall health and harvest of the tree.

In this article, we’ll look at how to prune a grapefruit tree, different types of pruning cuts, and how to care for your trees between seasons.

More About Grapefruit Trees

The grapefruit (citrus x paradisi) is a subtropical evergreen citrus tree that originated in Barbados due to the inadvertent hybridization of a sweet orange and a pomelo tree.

This beautiful plant has dark, waxy leaves and small white flowers that appear before it fruits, boasting its value as an ornamental, as well as a harvest-bearing tree.

The grapefruit is named for how its fruit grows in a bunch, like grapes, rather than on single stems like one would see on an orange tree or a lemon tree.  

Nevertheless, it is no less of a popular citrus to eat, and its large pink, yellow, or reddish fruits have a tart, tangy flavor that is a favorite at the breakfast table.

Standard grapefruit trees can grow from 15 to 45 feet tall (5 to 14 meters) but average at roughly 25 feet (7.5 meters).

Dwarf grapefruit trees, on the other hand, are an attractive alternative to their bigger cousins, especially for gardeners with less space. They only reach heights of around 12 feet (3.5 meters) while still producing the same size fruit.

Popular grapefruit varieties include the Melogold, the Duncan, the Flame, and the Star Ruby cultivars. They grow best in plant hardiness zones 9 to 11 and love full sun and lots of water.

Why You Should Prune Your Grapefruit Tree

Before sharpening your shears, it’s always good to evaluate why your plants need pruning. The right amount of pruning will serve to benefit your fruit trees, while voracious hacking can hurt them.

That being said, grapefruit trees are relatively low maintenance and don’t require too much pruning at all.

One hardy cut after winter, or early in the spring, is more than enough to make way for healthy branches capable of supporting a bountiful harvest.

Due to their fruit size, you want to make sure the branches of your grapefruit trees are not overcrowded or overburdened.

Furthermore, as these plants are so beautifully ornamental, occasional shaping and taming are also advisable.

Finally, you may need to embark on a bit of emergency pruning to deter or prevent pests or diseases from time to time.

When to Prune Your Grapefruit Tree

The key to a good pruning regime is consistency, and grapefruit trees are no exception to the rule. They must be pruned annually, during their dormant season, every year from when you first plant them.

The best time to prune grapefruit trees is either very late in winter or early in spring. The threat of frost must be over before you cut, but you’ll want to make sure you get in before buds start to form too.

Let’s look at the lifecycle of pruning a grapefruit plant, from the seedling tree stage to maturity.

Pruning After Planting

So, you’ve returned from the garden center as the proud owner of a brand-new grapefruit sapling, ready to be planted. After spacing, transplanting, feeding, and watering your grapefruit tree, it’s time to embark on your first pruning endeavor.  

Pruning straight after planting will boost your tree’s health and reduce its chances of damage and distress. Furthermore, how you prune your sapling is crucial, as it is the foundation for the tree’s eventual shape.

First, assess your newly-planted tree and identify three or four branches that are spaced out evenly and extending outwards (and upwards) at roughly a 45-degree angle. These branches, known as scaffolds, will become your fruit-bearing wood.

Next, prune away all the branches below the primary scaffolds.

Once this process is complete and you are happy with the shape of your tree, you can leave it to grow peacefully until after its first winter.

The First Winter After Planting

Once you’ve seen your grapefruit saplings through their first winter, it’s time to prune them once again. By this stage, healthy trees have well-established root growth, and ideally, they would have flourished substantially from when they were first planted.

And while it may cause a bit of a pang to cut back their new growth, it is necessary to prune them once again to solidify their fruiting branches and maintain their shape as they head towards maturity.

Prune back your entire tree by about 20% to 30% and clean up its scaffold branches. This is the best way to stimulate and promote fruit production.  

Annual Pruning

From two years onwards, your grapefruit tree will be heading towards maturity, and within a year or two, it should start to produce fruit.

It is imperative that you prune your grapefruit trees every year, as this stimulates their growth and keeps their scaffold branches strong and established for fruit production.

In its early, foundational years, you can also prune away developing buds to allow your tree to expend its energy on growing rather than fruiting.

A disciplined and well-maintained pruning regimen safeguards the health and strength of your grapefruit trees and paves the way for the best possible harvest.

It also allows you to keep an eye out for possible pests and diseases.

Tips For How to Prune a Grapefruit Tree

To successfully prune your grapefruit tree, you need to know what to look out for and how precisely to go about making your cuts.

If your end game is a happy, healthy tree, here is a wide range of tips to consider when wielding your shears.

Directional Pruning

A well-established grapefruit tree has scaffolded branches that grow upwards and outwards at a decent and evenly spaced distance from one another. The first thing to look out for when pruning is branches that overlap or point inwards. Cut them away to help reshape and strengthen your fruit-bearing limbs.

Dead or Diseased Branches

Target dead wood when cutting back your grapefruit trees. If you notice branches that look broken, discolored, or diseased, that don’t have any bark or leaves, or that are noticeably dead or decayed, get rid of them.

Dead branches are a hub for pest attraction and a waste of your plants’ energy.

Secondary Branches

Trimming away secondary branches can be a little tricky, as technically, they’re not hurting your trees. However, they can slow fruit production by unintentionally overcrowding your fruiting limbs and blocking new buds from the sun.

To spot potentially harmful secondary limbs, look for adjacent branches growing from your primary stems at angles pointing inwards or at less than 45 degrees.

These branches can be thinned away to save your plants’ energy and boost your harvest.


As their name suggests, suckers are branches that utilize your grapefruit tree’s energy without benefiting it at all.

Suckers can be identified as the branches that grow from the tree’s base below your scaffold. They serve no real purpose and, for that reason, should be trimmed without hesitation.   

Fruit Thinning

While it may sound counter-intuitive, fruit thinning is one of the best techniques to use on citrus trees. This method entails cutting back up to ¼ of your primary branches to make way for new growth and to relinquish energy reserves to produce more fruit.

Non-Fruiting Wood

This trick is simple. If you have entire branches or limbs that are healthy but produce no fruit, cut them back. They are using energy that could be better spent on the harvest.

Preparing Your Pruning Tools

This goes without saying, but trees are living things, and as such, when cutting them, it’s necessary to practice hygiene precautions to prevent them from becoming diseased.

The first step to preparing your pruning tools is to make sure your workspace is clean and, most importantly, that your tools are clean and sterilized. It’s also best if they are really sharp to ensure you make clean cuts.

You’ll more than likely need the following:

  • Garden gloves
  • Pruning shears
  • A pruning saw
  • White paint (one-part white latex to nine parts of water)
  • Long-handled lopping shears (if you have a tall tree)

Gloves will protect your hands and also make it easier for you to grip your tree’s branches. Pruning shears are the perfect tool for removing pesky suckers, smaller, overlapping branches, or dead twigs.

For thicker branches, you may want to use a small pruning saw.

Always saw downwards, away from you, and at a bit of an angle. This will provide you with the cleanest cut possible.

Diluted white paint is an excellent medium to have on hand to treat cuts on your citrus trees and prevent sun damage or sunburn from too much direct exposure. It’s also good for branch tips that have recently been pruned.

If you’re pruning a mature tree that is already prolific in height, lopping shears can help you reach hard-to-get-to angles.

Types of Grapefruit Tree Pruning Cuts

Two main types of pruning cuts can be incorporated into your regime when it comes to citrus trees. Each serves its own distinct purpose, and it’s best to assess your tree’s need before going in for the cut.

Thinning Cuts

Thinning entails trimming back entire branches all the way to the branch collar as a means to maintain the shape of your grapefruit tree and open up its canopy for better air circulation and greater access to light.

Heading Cuts

Heading cuts are less frequently used for grapefruit tree pruning, as they generally result in a bushier plant. Heading involves cutting back a shoot to a bud (or any indiscriminate length, for that matter) and usually up to a lateral limb.

This is meant to encourage new sidewards growth, rather than the elongation of existing branches.

The benefit of this type of cut is that it can assist you in shaping your plant and controlling its size or refocusing its growth in a new direction.  

Emergency Pruning

Every now and then, outside of your annual pruning schedule, you may need to undertake what is known as emergency pruning.

This is done to curb the spread of pests or diseases.

As a general rule of thumb, it’s good to keep a watchful eye on your fruit trees to make sure you spot any potential threats.

Open wounds or creepy crawlies can cause havoc to fruit trees if they’re not caught in time.

If you notice a problem occurring in or around your tree, such as a decaying wood or a bug infection, start your treatment plan by cutting away diseased wood.

This may seem light a drastic step, but it’s the best way to stop the spread and grants your tree the opportunity to heal from whatever has infected it.

Pruning Container-Bound Grapefruit Trees

The rules and timeframes for pruning grapefruit trees grown in containers (or as indoor plants) are the same as standard trees, just on a smaller scale. Roots and shoots near the bud union should be removed during the plant’s dormant phase, and scaffold branches can be thinned to promote fruit production.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How long before a grapefruit tree bears fruit?

A: Generally speaking, a sapling will take up to three years to reach the age where it can viably produce fruit. This may, however, take as long as five years, depending on the species of tree and its growing conditions.

Q: What could cause a grapefruit tree to die?

A: Grapefruit trees are hardy, so if you notice that yours is distressed or dying, it is usually an indication that something is seriously wrong. It may be ill or suffering a pest outbreak, fungal or bacterial infection, or a sudden change in growing conditions. In some cases, mature grapefruit trees can perish from old age.

Q: At what temperature do grapefruit trees start to suffer cold damage?

A: More cold-hardy than most fruit trees, grapefruit can tolerate cold up to 28F (-2C) for short periods. Anything below this for more than 3 to 5 hours will start to damage the tree, possibly permanently. Mulching is a good way to retain some heat on your trees’ bases.

Final Thoughts on Pruning Grapefruit Trees

A little love and care can go a long way to keep your grapefruit tree flourishing, and while pruning one sounds complex, it’s actually pretty simple. Once you get the hang of how to prune a grapefruit tree, you’ll be a pro in no time.  

After all, what’s not to love about grapefruit trees? Their gorgeous fruit is packed full of nutrients and has endless potential to use both as an alternative remedy and a delicious culinary ingredient.

Do you have a grapefruit tree at home? What is your experience concerning pruning it? Please let us know in the comments below. We’d love to hear from you.

For more pruning guides, don’t hesitate to click here.

Want to learn more about grapefruits? Next, visit our grapefruit trees page to learn all about this big citrus: planting, growing, caring, cooking, and more!

How and where pomelo grows, growing at home

Almost all people love pomelo and even know where exotic fruits grow. But how does a pomelo grow, is it possible to grow a pomelo at home, how realistic is it to create conditions for a small home tree? We will consider these and other questions in the article.


  • How pomelo grows
  • Which country grows pomelo
  • How to grow pomelo
    • Sprouting
  • Main care rules
    • Lighting
    • Temperature
    • Humidity
    • Fertilizing
    • Watering
  • Pomeloi Passes
    • Formation Crohn
  • 9000 grow pomelo

    Asian tropical fruit pomelo not a hybrid. This is an independent evergreen plant of the citrus family. Magnificent, tall 10-15 meter pomelo trees are long-lived, the age of plants sometimes reaches 100 years.

    Large dark green leaves with a smooth surface covering branches with small thorns. Like any fruit tree, pomelo is unusually beautiful during flowering and fruiting. During the flowering of the pomelo, white flowers bloom on the tree, similar to small (5-7 cm) stars. When the fruiting time comes, which happens every year, large fruits (1-10 kg) of spherical or pear-shaped form ripen. The fruits have a characteristic delicate citrus aroma.

    Color of citrus fruits from light yellow, bright yellow, to light green shades. Fruit slices are separated by dense partitions, which are easily separated from the pulp. Partitions are bitter in taste, so they are not eaten with the pulp, unlike other citrus fruits.

    The fruit pulp inside the slices differs in taste, color, and also depends on the type of fruit.
    For example, the Khao horn variety has white, sweet flesh, while the Khao paen pomelo has slightly sour flesh. In Khao namphung fruit, it is sweet and yellowish in color. Everyone loves the Thongdi pomelo for its juicy sweet pink flesh.

    In which country does the pomelo grow?

    Citrus fruit with a thick peel was known and loved in ancient China. Initially, only the emperor with his family, and the nobility surrounding the imperial dynasty, were supposed to enjoy the fruits. Later, the fruit spread throughout Southeast Asia, where Europeans met with an unusual citrus, who passionately fell in love with healthy and tasty citrus.

    Today we see pomelo fruit on the shelves of supermarkets and our country, we usually eat it raw. In Asian countries, where pomelo grows, citrus is added to salads, meat, and fish dishes. Combine with other fruits, decorate desserts, prepare sauces.

    Undoubtedly, growing in the tropical zone, pomelo is not adapted to growing in latitudes, with a cold climate, low humidity, low winter temperatures in natural conditions. But many exotic lovers will always have a desire to grow a small tropical plant at home, to create a microclimate for it that is close to the conditions of its habitat.

    How to grow a pomelo

    Pomelo is no exception for residents of the northern latitudes, knowing how to grow a pomelo from a stone at home can achieve amazing results.


    Pomelo are propagated by seeds, so it is possible to grow an exotic crop only from a seed, following certain steps.

    1. Stones or seeds removed from the fruit - there is planting material for growing a citrus plant. Previously, pomelo seeds should be soaked in a weak solution of manganese for a couple of hours.
    2. Next, you need to prepare a soil substrate from sand, clay, limestone, fertile soil.
    3. Fill a small pot with substrate, moisten the soil with a spray bottle.
    4. Prepared seeds (seeds) are planted in a container with soil at a shallow depth of 1.5 cm.
    5. Close the pot with glass or film, leave in a warm place.
    6. You will have to constantly moisten the soil, for a month until sprouts appear.
    7. The next step is to prepare the pots for pomelo diving, filling them with humus and sand. A drainage layer must be poured at the bottom of the pots.
    8. Plants should be dived into pots only if the sprouts have 2 leaves. For each sprout a separate container for planting. The size of the pots should be small 6-9 cm in diameter.

    General care rules

    For further development, pomelo sprouts need certain conditions. In order for the plant to feel comfortable, it should create conditions close to its natural, tropical habitat. What do the basic rules of care include?


    Pomelo is a light-loving plant. The window sill is the best suited for growing a sprout and further developing a tree. It is better to install the pot on the south, west or east side. It is worth remembering about the abundance of sunlight from the south side, especially in summer, so you will need to shade the plant.


    The temperature of pomelo content is room temperature in summer, preferably not lower than 24°C in winter. Do not forget about heaters in winter, which are dangerous for plants, especially young, fragile ones.


    Like any tropical plant, pomelo requires high humidity. This is one of the main conditions for keeping a sheddock. Regular spraying of the crown is required, especially in spring and summer.

    In autumn - winter, a humidifier installed next to the plant will not be superfluous.

    Another option for moisturizing can be a wide container in which the plant pot is placed. Expanded clay or small pebbles are poured at the bottom of the container, and a little water is poured there. This will help saturate the air with moisture, which will be favorable for the growth and development of the pomelo.


    Plants are periodically fertilized, because nutrients are absorbed from the soil not completely, but only by 15-20%. For fertilizer, the most convenient and affordable means are suitable - natural humus and manure. Or artificial fertilizers, which include: calcium, nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, phosphorus.


    Regular watering, but the plant must not be watered to prevent a fungal disease. Water is defended or melted, rain, distilled water is used.

    Transplanting pomelo at home

    A large tree 10 meters high cannot be grown at home. But getting a neat tree with a beautiful crown decorated with small fragrant fruits is real.

    As the plant grows, it is repotted. As a rule, this is done in the spring, annually, while the plant is young. Citrus plants are usually transplanted by transshipment, no matter what damage the root system, because the roots of the plant are sensitive to change, do not like to be disturbed.

    Drainage material is poured on the bottom of the pot to drain water and breathability of the soil so that the roots of the plant breathe and do not rot.

    Increase pot size by 4-5 cm with each transplant. Over time, when the tree becomes large, replanting the plant will become dangerous for its life, transshipment can be stopped. It remains only to maintain care, to monitor the tree, forming its crown.

    Crown shaping

    Crown shaping determines whether a tree can bear the weight of the fruit. After all, the fruits of a homemade pomelo can weigh a kilogram.

    • For the first 4-5 years formative pruning is done.
    • When the tree grows up to 70-80 cm, it is cut for the first time.
    • It is important to pay attention to the buds of the main shoot plant. There should be at least four of them.
    • The number of tiers at the crown of a tree is formed by three or four.
    • Like most plants, pomelo pruning is done in the spring.
    • Pruning and replanting of the plant should not coincide in time: 1st year - pruning, 2nd year - transplant.

    Pomelo breeding tips

    Growing a pomelo from a stone is no longer a bad result. But in order for the tree to be full-fledged, to please with its fruits, it should be grafted. When the plant grows about half a meter tall, you need to choose a branch with a good large bud. Then make an incision on the branch in the form of the letter "T", cutting out part of the core.

    The prepared grafting branch must also have a sharp cut so that it can be conveniently inserted into the cavity on the trunk. When all the grafting actions have been completed, the treatment of the incision with a garden pitch is mandatory, because the plant needs to recover. You can attach a sprig of pomelo to the trunk with tape. After the branch has taken root, the adhesive tape can be removed.

    Do not allow the plant to bloom for the first 4-5 years. In a growing tree, flowering takes strength. To prevent the pomelo from dying, the emerging flowers are urgently removed.

    In the future, this will bear fruit, when the roots of the tree get stronger, it will become clear that the exotic plant is ready to bear fruit.

    Difficulties and pests

    Sometimes the owners of citrus plants face an unpleasant phenomenon - a disease of their favorite exotic "pet". Pomelo, unfortunately, is no exception; various pests can also appear on them.

    More often it is a spider mite, scale insect, or aphid:

    • Small spiders infect the reverse side of the leaves, because of which they die, having lost the juice.
    • Scale insect larvae stick to the trunk, as if forming a dense brown shield, secrete copper acid - a sticky coating on branches, leaves, blocking the access of oxygen, from which the plant may gradually die.
    • Rolling the leaves into a tube is the result of the "occupation" of the pomelo - aphids, which also deprive the leaves of the plant of juice.

    Fighting an insidious enemy is not easy, but possible. The main thing is to recognize the enemy in time.

    First of all, it is worth trying to fight with folk remedies, such as: soap-oil solutions, herbal infusions, strong solutions of potassium permanganate, garlic infusions with onion peel, tobacco infusions.

    Gently wipe the plant with a sponge or cotton swab dipped in the solution, but avoid spraying. Rubbing all the leaves and twigs on both sides of the pomelo will give the best result, especially since the procedure will have to be carried out more than once, but perhaps three or four at weekly intervals.

    If folk economic means did not give results, then you will have to resort to chemicals. Suitable Itavir, Karbofos, Aktara.

    In order for an exotic pomelo to turn out beautiful and healthy, most likely, you will have to work hard, have a little patience in order to create conditions close to the living conditions of these beautiful trees. Then the plant will delight you and decorate the house, rewarding you with a beautiful crown with fragrant fruits.

    Pruning and shaping indoor lemon

    Pruning and shaping indoor lemon is a mandatory procedure that helps not only to create an externally attractive crown, but also stimulates the emergence of new shoots and enhances the flowering process, and, accordingly, enhances fruiting. Therefore, it is important to know how to properly carry out such manipulation.

    Why do you need to prune a lemon

    Pruning of domestic citrus fruits, including lemon, is carried out in order to achieve the following parameters and characteristics:

    • Crown shaping – Lemon trees can be given a variety of appearances, ranging from a stem to a branched, shrub-like variety.
    • Removal of branches can stimulate the rapid growth and return of young shoots. And this causes the formation of an increased number of flowers and, subsequently, ovaries.
    • In addition, pruning can rid the plant of old, withered, damaged and diseased parts. This is how sanitary care is achieved, which allows you to strengthen the lemon's own immunity.

    Considering the effect of pruning on the well-being of lemons, it is extremely important to carry out pruning in accordance with all the rules and with the frequency that the plant requires at different stages of its development.

    First pruning of a lemon

    The first time the removal of branches is carried out when the height of the young tree exceeds 20 cm. It is also important to choose the right seasonality - this is best done in the spring. But, until the moment when the ejection of buds begins.

    Branching features and its effect on pruning, rules

    Those who grow lemons at home should first of all understand the peculiarities of the plant's branching.

    Here's what to consider:

    • In the first stage of growth, a single shoot is formed, called zero branching.
    • At about 1 year, branching occurs when one branch splits into 2 main ones. Around this age, the first removal of branches occurs. It is important that 4 branches are left.
    • After a certain period of time, additional branches are formed on these branches - 2 shoots are formed from one shoot, and so the plant is further divided. Due to which thickening and the shape of a lemon are formed.

    As soon as shoots of the 4th order have formed on the tree, fruiting can be expected. Therefore, by the time the buds begin to appear, the lemon has branches of a very different order - some have already formed and are fully prepared for the appearance of fruits, while others are still in the growth stage.


    • Young sprouts on which one bud is most often formed.
    • Fattening shoots - they should be looked for in the inner part of the crown. You can distinguish them by strength and rapid growth. They rush vertically upwards, taking on a lot of the plant's strength, but not bringing benefits in terms of fruiting.

    Crown formation

    If pruning is carried out in order to form the attractiveness of the plant, you should use the following professional advice: Therefore, first of all, those branches that interfere with the even shape of the trunk and can bend it are removed.

  • They are cut throughout the growing season.
  • As for the side branches, it is worth making sure that they do not develop one-sidedly. It is important that the lemon is illuminated evenly from all sides - this will allow an attractive crown to form. It is not recommended to turn the plant, as it can react negatively to such displacements and simply drop the foliage.
  • Those branches that grow inwards should be cut. Otherwise, they will cause the crown to thicken and will not allow the power of the tree to be evenly distributed between all the shoots. In addition, one should not expect fruiting from shoots directed inward.
  • Strongly stretching branches that go beyond the main shape of the tree can not be completely removed, but subjected to tweezing - that is, slight pinching to the desired length. But, it is important not to miss the moment when you can implement pinching. This can only be done for young shoots.
  • But the old shoots that have begun to dry out or take on a painful appearance are important to remove immediately. Cut off from the place where the branching is observed.

The crown of a lemon can be formed in the following form:

  • Stem - it can vary in height. Therefore, they distinguish - high-stem, medium-stem and low-stem crown types. Each of them will have its own height of the main trunk and, accordingly, the height of the branches above the soil surface will fluctuate.
  • Bush crown type - in this case, the branches can begin to grow on the tree almost at the very base of the trunk.

The shape of the crown does not affect the flowering process, but their appearance will be different.

Rejuvenating pruning

After you buy lemon seedlings and plant them, and when the plant has reached a respectable age, it not only worsens its appearance, but also begins to bear less and less fruit. To revive the lemon, a rejuvenating type of pruning is recommended.

To do this, you need: