How to put weed barrier around trees

How to Install Landscape Fabric Around Existing Bushes and Trees - Lawn Care Blog

Your gardening friends have told you the joys and woes of landscape fabric. But now you’re ready to make your own assessment of the controversial weed blocker. Our how-to guide will show you how to install landscape fabric around existing bushes and trees and help you uncover whether the weed barrier is the right choice for your plants. 

 Table of Contents: 

What is landscape fabric?

Landscape fabric is a geotextile typically made of polypropylene, linen, polyester, or recycled materials. The fabric is spread across the planting bed to limit weed growth, control soil erosion, insulate the soil, and minimize evaporation. Most landscape fabrics are porous enough to allow water and air to seep into the soil. 

Landscape fabric isn’t the material’s only name –– it’s also referred to as garden fabric, weed block fabric, landscaping fabric, weed control fabric, and weed barrier fabric.  

Is landscape fabric good for my trees and bushes?


It depends on who you ask. Some gardeners swear by the weed barrier, while others will warn you to stay far away. The material might have its drawbacks, but it has its advantages too. 

Landscape fabric is effective at preventing vegetative competition around your young trees and shrubs. In other words, weeds won’t compete with your plants for nutrients, space, light, and moisture. 

But if the fabric blocks weeds, won’t it block water too? Don’t worry –– most garden fabrics are permeable enough to allow water and oxygen to pass through the barrier. 

If you’re installing rock mulch or a rock garden underneath your tree, landscape fabric can prove especially useful. Small stones such as pea gravel and river rock can sink into the ground, making removing the stones or digging the soil especially difficult. Landscape fabric acts as a barrier between the rocks and the soil. 

What are the disadvantages of landscape fabric?

While landscape fabric can provide a quick solution for controlling weeds, its benefits begin to decline after a year or so. Many gardeners install their landscape fabric thinking it will provide a permanent solution, but permanence is one of landscape fabric’s many myths. 

Although most landscape fabrics are permeable, they tend to clog over time. The clogged fabric prevents water and oxygen from reaching the soil, ultimately leading to poor soil health. 

But poor soil isn’t the fabric’s only flaw. Landscape fabric: 

  • Suffocates earthworms
  • Adds no nutritional value to the soil
  • Girdles trees when not installed properly
  • Requires regular replacement
  • Jeopardizes plant health when roots grow into the fabric

Landscape fabric also won’t completely eliminate your weeding chores. Wind can blow weed seeds from neighboring lawns and gardens onto the mulch that’s on top of the fabric. And these sprouting weeds can be tough to remove because their roots often intertwine with the fabric.

Which landscape fabric should I use around my trees and shrubs?

There are many different types of landscape fabrics, all with varying degrees of durability and permeability.  

You’ll want a landscape fabric with good permeability so that your plants’ roots get enough water and oxygen. Woven fabric is typically the best landscape fabric to install around trees and shrubs. We’ll list the various fabric types below so that you understand your options. 

The four major types of fabric are: 

  • Woven
  • Non-woven
  • Spun
  • Perforated



This garden fabric is typically made of tightly woven linen or polypropylene fibers. It contains tiny holes that water and air can pass through. 

Rating: Woven landscape fabric is an excellent weed barrier around trees and shrubs. It’s also a suitable choice for flower gardens that don’t need new plants often. 



Typically made of polyester or polypropylene, this fabric is a solid sheet of non-woven material.

Non-woven fabric options are typically installed underneath rock mulches, rock gardens, or rock pathways to help prevent the small stones from sinking into the ground. The fabric also helps make removing the rocks from the landscape much easier. 

Rating: Non-woven landscape fabric allows some water movement, but it’s not as permeable as other landscape fabrics. It might not be the best choice around your trees and shrubs, as there is a higher risk of suffocating your plants. 


Spun landscape fabric is a type of non-woven fabric. It consists of long polyester fibers that have been bonded together with compression or heat. 

Spun landscape fabric is very durable. Many gardeners use the heavy-duty fabric as a physical barrier around the gardens’ borders to deter pests and invasive grass. It’s useful underneath rock mulches and behind retaining walls to help prevent soil and roots from reaching the cracks. 

Rating: Spun landscape fabric is not the best landscape fabric for your trees and shrubs. Thin spun landscaping fabrics are often porous enough to allow water and oxygen to pass, but thick spun fabric options are usually not as permeable.   



Perforated garden fabric has small, perforated holes. It’s a light-duty, permeable material perfect for beds where plants are changed often. It’s not ideal for areas that receive heavy foot traffic. 

Rating: Perforated is best suited for vegetable gardens or annual flower beds

Should I add organic or inorganic mulch above my landscape fabric?

The main difference between organic and inorganic mulch is that organic mulch decomposes and adds nutrients to the soil. Inorganic mulch doesn’t decompose, nor does it provide nutritional value to the soil. 

Since you’re mulching above the landscape fabric, it won’t make a nutritional difference whether you apply organic or inorganic mulch. Why? Because the landscape fabric prevents organic mulch from replenishing the soil with its nutrients. 

It ultimately comes down to which mulch you find to be an aesthetically pleasing ground cover that’s easy to maintain.

Inorganic options include: 

  • Shredded rubber
  • Rock mulch
  • Pea gravel

Organic options include: 

  • Wood chips
  • Shredded bark
  • Pine needles
  • Grass clippings
  • Shredded leaves
  • Compost

What supplies do I need?

Ready to start installing landscape fabric around your trees and shrubs? Here’s what you’ll need: 

  • Tape measure
  • Bow rake 
  • Garden hoe
  • Rubber mallet or hammer
  • Utility knife 
  • Scissors
  • Your choice of mulch
  • Your choice of landscape fabric
  • Herbicide (optional) 
  • Landscape staples
  • Garden gloves

How to install fabric around your existing trees and shrubs

Step 1: Measure the area

Using your tape measure, measure the area where you want to install the landscape fabric. This step will help you determine how much landscape fabric and garden staples you’ll need.

When calculating the amount of fabric you’ll need, account for some extra material. Why? Because you’ll need a few inches of extra fabric for the planting bed’s edge and some extra fabric to install underneath any slits you make. 

You’ll need to have enough garden staples for:

  • Every foot along the fabric’s edge
  • Every square foot within the bed’s interior area
  • Every slit you make (you’ll need one garden staple for every one foot of the slit)
  • Every time you overlap the fabric (you’ll need one garden staple for every one foot of overlapped fabric)
  • Every time you make an X-shaped incision (you’ll need four garden staples for every X-shaped incision, more if the incision is particularly large) 

Step 2: Clear the area of weeds

You don’t want to install your garden fabric over a dirty planting bed. Pull any existing weeds by hand or use your garden hoe to slice through the roots. Be gentle around your existing shrubs — you don’t want to hit their roots accidentally!

Another option is to use an herbicide. If you use an herbicide to clear out the weeds, you’ll need to wait about two weeks before you install the fabric. 

Step 3: Gather the debris

Next, grab your garden rake and collect the debris. Gather and remove all the twigs, dry leaves, and weeds. 

Step 4: Level the soil

Comb your garden rake through the planting bed and level out the soil. 

Step 5: Apply soil amendments

Now is the time to add any soil amendments, such as compost. Once you install the landscape fabric, you’ll have limited access to your soil. 

Step 6: Roll out the landscape fabric

Slowly roll out the landscape fabric, starting from one edge of the planting bed. It’s helpful to have one person stand on the material to hold it in place while a second person rolls out the fabric. 

Read the instructions to see which side of the landscape fabric faces up. For most landscape fabrics, it’s fuzzy side down. 

Around the bed’s edges, remember to leave a few extra inches of fabric.

Once your fabric reaches a shrub or tree, you’ll need to cut the landscape fabric. Here’s what you can do: 


If it’s a tree you’ve reached, determine the spot on the landscape fabric where the tree will go. 

Next, cut a slit starting from the landscape fabric’s closest edge toward where the tree will be.

Once your scissors have arrived at the designated spot, cut a large enough hole for the tree’s trunk. Don’t make the hole too small because you don’t want the fabric to girdle the tree. The fabric shouldn’t rest against the tree’s trunk nor cover its root flare. The root flare is where the trunk meets the soil, and the roots extend outward. 

Open the slit and slide the tree through to the hole. Continue rolling out the landscape fabric until you reach the next plant. 

Shrub (option one)

Once you reach a shrub, you’ll perform the same task as if it were a tree. 

First, determine where on the fabric the shrub will be located. 

Next, cut the slit toward the shrub’s spot. If the shrub has a small trunk, you might not need to cut a hole. If the shrub’s trunk is thick, cut a hole. 

Finally, slide the fabric’s slit over the shrub’s trunk and continue rolling out the fabric. 

Shrub (option two)

Another way you can wrap the fabric around shrubs is to make incisions in the fabric. 

First, determine where on the fabric the shrub will be located. 

Using a utility knife, make an X-shaped incision that’s as large as the shrub. Place the incision over the shrub and pull the shrub through the incision. Continue rolling out the fabric until you reach another plant. 

What to do if you use multiple sheets of fabric

The chances are good that you’ll need more than one sheet of fabric to cover the planting bed. When you apply multiple sheets of fabric, it’s essential to maintain a 6- to 12-inch overlap between each sheet. 

Step 7: Secure the landscape fabric


Once you’ve spread the landscape fabric around the shrubs and trees, it’s time to put the garden staples into action.  

Keep the landscape fabric taut and snug by beginning at one edge of the material and working your way across the bed. 

With the help of your mallet or hammer, here’s where you’ll need to install the garden staples: 

  • Every foot along the edges of the fabric. Before you staple, fold the extra material underneath the fabric. Cutting the excess material off is an option, but it often frays the fabric. Fold the extra few inches of fabric underneath the sheet, and then install the staple. 
  • Every foot between the overlapping fabrics.
  • Between every slit leading to a plant. Before you staple, slip a piece of landscape fabric underneath the slit –– this is to ensure no weeds grow through the opening. 
  • Between the triangular flaps of an X-shaped incision. 
  • Every square foot within the fabric’s interior area. In some areas, you might have already installed a garden staple to secure a slit or overlap.

Step 8: Apply mulch

This step is optional, but leaving landscape fabric uncovered can be an eyesore in the front yard. 

Applying mulch incorrectly can be harmful to your trees and shrubs. Your tree might be large and mighty, but spreading too much mulch around it can be detrimental to its health. 

Say no to mulch volcanoes

Have you ever seen a tree that looks like it has mulch climbing up its trunk? That’s a mulch volcano. Homeowners sometimes pile on the mulch and pack it right up against the tree’s trunk –– this is not the right way to install mulch. 

How to mulch around trees

Trees need 2 to 4 inches of mulch, but no more. Too much mulch will suffocate your tree. The tree’s root system will grow too close to the soil surface in search of oxygen and potentially girdle the tree. 

Spread the mulch as far as the canopy’s edge, also known as the dripline. Pull the mulch 6 inches away from the tree’s trunk and keep the root flare exposed.  

How to mulch around shrubs

A 2- to 4-inch thick layer of mulch is enough for your shrubs. Pull the mulch at least 3 inches away from the shrub’s trunk.

Step 9: Check in on your plants

You might have installed the landscape fabric and mulch, but your job isn’t over yet. As your trees and shrubs continue to grow, it’s essential to check the trunks. If the trunks outgrow the hole you cut in the landscape fabric, the fabric will girdle the tree. 

Pull back some of the mulch to check the trunk’s size. If the hole is too small, cut the fabric and make the hole larger. 

FAQs about installing landscape fabric 

1. How big should a tree’s plant bed be?

The landscape fabric and mulch should extend out to the tree’s dripline. 

2. Can you install landscape fabric before you add plants?

Yes, landscape fabric is easy to install before you add your plants. After you secure the landscape fabric to the ground, make X-shaped incisions where you want your plants to go. 

Pull back the incisions flaps and dig a hole the size of the plant’s root ball. Place the plant’s roots into the hole, backfill with soil, and then fold down the flaps. Remember to secure the flaps with garden staples. 

3. How long will the garden fabric last around my trees and bushes?

Landscape fabric doesn’t decompose, which means it will remain in the soil for many, many years. But don’t get your hopes up. Landscape fabric’s benefits tend to decline after one year, which means you’ll need to replace it quite often. 

4. Are there alternatives to landscape fabric?

Yes, alternative solutions to achieving weed-free garden beds do exist. 

Many organic mulches, such as wood chips and grass clippings, are weed barriers. They also add nutrients to the soil and increase plant health.  

Other landscape fabric alternatives include newspaper, burlap, and cardboard.  

Need help installing your landscape fabric?

Installing landscape fabric can be a straightforward home improvement project if your plant bed has only one tree or a few bushes. But if you need to take into account multiple plants, the job can get overwhelming, especially if you’re concerned about the health of your plants. 

Whether you’re worried about harming your plants with improper installation or you need an extra hand, hiring a local lawn care professional can ease the burden. Enjoy the spare time on your hands while a professional prepares your plant bed, installs the fabric, and spreads the mulch. 

Main Photo Credit: Trong Nguyen | Shutterstock




Jane Purnell

Jane Purnell is a freelance writer and actor in New York City. She earned her B.A. from the University of Virginia and enjoys a warm cup of French press coffee.

Posts by Jane Purnell

How To Install Landscape Fabric Around Shrubs and Trees – ECOgardener

Are the bushes around your garden ridden with weeds and unsightly vegetation? Installing landscape fabric around shrubs will put a stop to invasive plants from taking over your outdoor space!

In our previous guide, we talked about the many ways to use and maintain landscape fabric for the garden. And in this guide, we’ll teach you how to install the landscape fabric around the shrubs and trees the right way.

Contents [hide]
  1. 3 Easy Steps on How to Install Landscape Fabric Around Shrubs
    • Step 1: Prep the Area for Landscaping
    • Step 2: Cut the Landscape Fabric
    • Step 3: Stapling the Landscape Fabric in Place
    • Optional Step: Add a Layer of Mulch
      • Can you put landscape fabric around plants?
      • How close should landscape fabric be to plants?
  2. How do you cover plants with landscape fabric?

3 Easy Steps on How to Install Landscape Fabric Around Shrubs

Installing landscape fabric is easy if you’re quite the handyman. The product is sold in rolls and sheets, so as long as you have enough landscape fabric to cover the area you’re landscaping, you’re good to go. You can always hire a professional to do this for you, but if you want to save on installation fee, go ahead and dedicate a weekend to get the job done.

Here is a step by step guide how and some useful tips to keep in mind:

Step 1: Prep the Area for Landscaping

Get your hands dirty; you need to clear the space around the bushes by pulling all the weeds and removing the sods in the bed around the bushes. You’ll have to clear at least a 3-foot square area around the shrubs. Using a rake, level the earth and remove unwanted debris like small rocks, dried leaves, dried weeds, etc. The ground has to be level so the landscape fabric is laid down correctly.

Step 2: Cut the Landscape Fabric

Using a sharp utility knife or scissors, cut the landscape fabric in appropriate-sized sheets. Each sheet should be 2 to 3 inches longer than the bed size that’s being covered because the edges will either be tucked under or stapled in place later.

Lay the landscape fabric over the area being landscaped, marking it in places where the shrubs are so you can cut the material later on. Make an X-shaped cut in the fabric above the shrub, working the sheet over the shrub and through the cut slit, making sure that the slit is big enough for the size of the bushes.

Step 3: Stapling the Landscape Fabric in Place

Once the landscape fabric has been laid, smooth it over to be in complete contact with the soil. Pull the edges of the slit, so the landscape fabric is not bunching up or resting against the shrub’s trunk. When you’re sure that the landscape fabric is set right, weigh the material down with stones or heavy objects.

Now get the landscape fabric staples and start driving a pin down with a hammer, spacing the staples according to the soil. If the ground is soft, you'll need to install one staple every foot. For average soil, install one staple every 3 feet. For hard soil, you can install one every 5 feet along the edges and seams. Finally, trim the edges of the fabric as needed.

Optional Step: Add a Layer of Mulch

You can use tree bark, wood clippings, gravel, lava rocks, etc., as mulch materials. Spread about a 2-inch layer of mulch all over the landscape fabric to improve the garden's look. You’ll need to replenish the mulch every few months.

Can you put landscape fabric around plants?

Yes, you can. You’ll just need to cut the landscape fabric and make sure that it is not resting on top of the shrub’s main trunk before stapling the fabric in place. This way, the pins won’t come undone as the tree trunk grows.

How close should landscape fabric be to plants?

It depends on how big the plants are. A good rule to remember when installing landscape fabric is to set it a few inches close to the plant roots but never too close. It will warm up the soil too much during the summer season and inhibit the exchange of air, water, and nutrients.

If you are planning to plant through the landscape fabric, circular cuts have to be made so you can dig the earth for planting. The hole has to be big enough to fit the plant’s root ball. Be extra generous in cutting out holes for perennials and grasses. If the area has an existing plant, like a large shrub, you will use more than one sheet of fabric and lay these in sections to ensure that the sheets overlap by 6 to 12 inches.

How do you cover plants with landscape fabric?

If you plan to plant through the landscape fabric, you’ll have to lay down the fabric before planting. This way, you can cover the landscape fabric and control the sizes of the holes you’re making. Cutting holes will affect the effectiveness and integrity of the landscape fabric, so this has to be done precisely. Plan where the plants will go and take it from there. For existing plants, like shrubs, you’ll need to work around the parameter of the trunk. You’ll use multiple sheets of fabric to cover the area, especially for big shrubs.

When appropriately installed, landscape fabric will make yard work a breeze. It will improve the look of the garden and save time on weed and pest control. Now that you know how to install landscape fabric around bushes go ahead and shop for heavy-duty landscape fabric and staples in our shop!

cardboard barrier and mulching your beds You can find a thousand ways to get rid of weeds on your site, but their effectiveness often does not always live up to expectations. We offer you one method that has already blown up the Internet and transformed many gardens, ridding them of annoying weeds - “cardboard gardening”.

You can find a thousand ways to get rid of weeds in your area, but their effectiveness often does not always live up to expectations. We offer you one method that has already blown up the Internet and transformed many gardens, ridding them of annoying weeds - “cardboard gardening”.

If you haven't heard of "cardboard gardening" yet, then you're not alone, this method is only gaining popularity. The classic option with uprooting weeds gives little result, because the remaining pieces of the root system of pest plants are enough to fill the beds again. In fact, the new method consists in creating a barrier, a shield on the way of weeds spreading to the topsoil. So the activity of weeds is drowned out in favor of cultivated plants.

This method is also perfect if you don’t want to bother yourself too much with cleaning a garden area that has long been overgrown with weeds in order to plant a front garden with flowers on it this year.

Let's take a closer look at this method.

Let's start with a thin layer of newspapers

It's time to dig through the old piles of waste paper in your garage or attic. Need newspapers and magazines printed on plain, non-glossy or waxed paper. After you have cleared the site of large debris and objects throughout its area, a thin layer of newspaper spreads is lined.

Waste paper should be laid out in layers so that approximately 100 sheets per square meter. Make sure that the paper is evenly distributed over the entire area without pieces where the layer is too thick or thin.

Time for cardboard

Each piece of cardboard should be a single layer. When disassembling old boxes, you should cut or tear them so that they fully unfold. To collect the required amount of cardboard, it is enough to go around the nearest stores or walk around the neighbors and collect all the boxes. The size does not play a significant role.

The cardboard should be distributed tightly so that there are no gaps through which weeds will crawl. You may have to cut the disassembled boxes into smaller pieces.

Humidification of the cardboard

The whole point is to use cardboard to help your garden grow like never before. To achieve this, the cardboard should be moistened with plenty of water. To do this, use a regular sprayer, as for watering the beds in the garden. The cardboard should get completely wet, after which it will lie even more densely on the soil surface and will definitely not budge.


This is necessary to create an additional nutrient layer for your garden. A layer of mulch or humus from your compost pile is poured on top of the cardboard. It is advisable to select or harvest material with a fine fraction. In the “cardboard garden”, it is enough to do fertilizing and mulching only once a season and even less often, because the nutrients will remain on the soil surface longer without being washed out.

Adding soil

The whole point of mulching your beds using the "cardboard garden" method is to renew the top fertile soil layer, in which there will no longer be annoying weeds. Therefore, after mulching and top dressing, a layer of clean and prepared soil should be distributed over the site.

You should not take the land from your own backyard, because there are already enough remnants of roots and other living creatures in it. The prepared substrate from the store is better. The thickness of the layer varies depending on what exactly will be grown in this area. There should be enough depth to make a hole and plant the selected plants.

In order not to deprive yourself of the opportunity to plant plants with a deep root system, it is enough to build a decorative wooden formwork around the prepared area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe "cardboard garden", which will increase the thickness of the fertile soil layer.

3 best remedies from agronomists

Scientists have calculated that for some crops, weeds can reduce the yield of the main crop by 40-50% (1). Just imagine, on not well-groomed beds, weeds “eat up” half of our crop! Therefore, it is imperative to fight them. Only systematic control measures will help keep them in check. It is worth being lazy, letting things take their course - they immediately capture the entire territory.

Weed control techniques

Here are some gardening practices that can help reduce weeds in your garden.

Weed the garden more often. If you live in the country, then the manual method is the best option for you.

– The constant oppression of grasses sometimes seems like a struggle between Hercules and the Lernean Hydra – you pulled out one head, and two grow in its place, – says agronomist Mikhail Vorobyov. - But it's still more effective and safer than using chemicals. By stubborn weeding, I even managed to get rid of the field bindweed. Every three days he pulled out new sprouts, thereby methodically weakening the root system and depriving the leaves of the energy that the leaves received from the sun. Many weeds have a supply of vitality - in the roots (wheatgrass, thistle). But even this power is not infinite, and patience and labor will grind everything ...

Dig up the area and remove all roots. You can weed out couch grass, thistle thistle, goutweed or dandelions as much as you like, but they will still grow. You can get rid of them only by digging up the site and carefully selecting all the rhizomes. Only here it is necessary to dig not with a shovel, but with a pitchfork. With a shovel, you will definitely cut the underground shoots into pieces, and then a new weed will grow from each. The pitchfork allows you to select whole rhizomes. The method is laborious, difficult, but very reliable and effective.

Mulch the beds. This method is the most ideal for weekend summer residents. Fortunately, now in any garden center you can buy a very beautiful mulch - from bark, often tinted, wood chips or small pebbles. First, it's beautiful. And secondly, by filling with mulch previously weeded flower beds or beds with strawberry bushes, you will rid yourself of weeds for the whole summer.

“You can cover the beds with freshly cut grass,” explains agronomist Mikhail Vorobyov . - It will be free. Just remember, if you mow with a lawn mower, the layer of freshly cut grass must be thin so that it dries normally. Otherwise, the grass rots intensively and releases ammonia. This is for plants - like nitrogen fertilizer or fresh manure, accelerating growth. If in the spring and early summer such top dressing is only beneficial, then in the second half of the summer it is completely useless. However, an excess amount of nitrogen compounds is harmful at any time - the roots can get a chemical burn. With grass cut with a regular scythe, there are no such problems.

Observe crop rotation. Many summer residents have heard that the same crop cannot be planted in the same place for several years in a row - pests and pathogens accumulate in the soil. But not only them. One of the leading Russian scientists in the field of crop rotation, Doctor of Agricultural Sciences. Sciences, Professor Sergei Vorobyov noted that non-observance of crop rotation leads to an increase in soil contamination with weeds (2).

You don't have to look far for examples. Still weed potatoes? And then you walk along the rows, and you are surprised: here and there, weeds lurk right in the bushes. How could they not be noticed? And it's very simple. One of the main potato weeds is common amaranth. Its leaves are very similar to potato leaves, so skipping it is a common thing. At the same time, amaranth is incredibly prolific, each unnoticed plant will produce thousands of seeds. If next year you plant, say, cucumbers in this area, you will be able to see all the amaranth bushes and will not give it a chance to breed further. And if you plant potatoes again, they will hide again and again give numerous offspring.

So change crops in places and remember - each type of vegetable should return to its original place no earlier than after 4 years.

Sow green manure. After you have harvested the crop, the weeds in the vacated beds begin to develop even faster - now they have no competitors. So don't leave the ground empty. Sow green manure in this place: rapeseed, mustard, rye, phacelia. And you will get a triple benefit!

Firstly, many green manure kill weeds. For example, mustard and rapeseed release a large amount of specific substances into the soil - glycosides that inhibit the growth of harmful plants.

Secondly, they destroy pests and pathogens. The same rapeseed and mustard produce essential oils that greatly inhibit the development of black leg, root rot, rhizoctoniosis and scab.

Thirdly, all green manure is an excellent fertilizer. Scatter the seeds over the area and rake into the soil. Water. And let it grow.

After 3 weeks, cut off the green mass of these plants, chop, scatter over the area and dig. But not deep - 3 - 4 cm. After the green manure is buried, the site must be poured abundantly with water.

Avoid fresh organics. It is sometimes difficult for a city summer resident to get manure, but if he succeeds, fertilizer is instantly applied to the site. But manure is sold most often fresh. It's full of weed seeds! Cows and horses are known to eat grass.

In order not to litter the garden, put the manure in a pile and let it rest for 3 years. Well, at least two. When the organic matter is folded in a thick layer, it is very hot, and weed seeds die at high temperatures.

A combination of several weed control methods will bring the greatest efficiency. Photo:

Fence your garden. Cultivated plants sometimes become weeds. For example, mint, horseradish, Jerusalem artichoke, raspberry.

To keep them from spreading all over the area, dig 50 cm of slate, metal sheets or special tape around them to a depth of 50 cm - these are sold at garden centers. The same fence will protect cultivated plants from penetrating perennial weeds, such as gout and wheatgrass.

Set up drip irrigation. Weeds need not only light, but also water. If you water the beds with a hose and a watering can, the water spreads throughout the area and gets to the weeds too. Drip irrigation solves this problem - it delivers water directly to the roots of cultivated plants. And weeds die from drought.

Pour the area with... vodka. This method came to us from America, where it was first tested in the 30s of the last century. Its essence is provocation. A month before the start, the sowing soil is treated with diluted vodka (150 g per bucket of water). Alcohol stimulates the germination of weeds, they sprout more friendly and faster, after which they are weeded out.

Weed control agents

There are more radical weed control agents, but they are either unsafe for the environment or are associated with significant financial costs.

Herbicides. Yes, this is chemistry, but in other cases, weeds cannot be dealt with differently. Herbicides are of continuous action, destroying all plants without breaking (Hurricane forte, Arsenal, Tornado, Roundup (3)). And selective, acting on certain types of weeds - monocotyledonous or dicotyledonous.

Herbicides will help to cope with such persistent weeds as couch grass, cow parsnip, snoot or hops. They are best used when the beds are empty.

- Chemistry is also good to use where it is difficult to weed by hand, - says agronomist Mikhail Vorobyov . - For example, at the fence, at the boundary with the neighboring plot (as a rule, many people have a chain-link mesh there, through which weeds, including nettles, readily grow), along the facade of a house or outbuildings. But this must be done very carefully.

Herbicide application is best done on a sunny, calm day, ideally in the morning. Read the drug instructions carefully. As a rule, it is written there that it is possible to go to the treated area only after 4 days, when the chemical becomes safe for people and animals. In general, all "killer" chemicals decompose in the soil within a month. Therefore, be very careful near the berry bushes.

Covering materials. Cover the area with a dense opaque blanket - black film, agrofibre, cardboard. Agrofibre can be used on beds - it is enough to make holes in it at the right distance and plant cultivated plants there. And so that the film does not spoil the look of the garden, it can be mulched with hay, straw or sawdust.

The black film, of course, costs money, but it lasts for several years, and it greatly simplifies the work.

Popular questions and answers

We talked about weeds with agronomist-breeder Svetlana Mikhailova and asked her the most popular questions of summer residents.

Can weed salt be used?

No way! Yes, if you treat the area with salt, the weeds will die. But also cultivated plants. Even if you sprinkle or water the area with salt in early spring, before you start planting vegetables, it will still hurt - it will not go anywhere from the soil. And the systematic use of salt, even in small concentrations, over time can lead to salinization of the site and nothing will grow on it at all for many years.

Can we use baking soda for weeds?

Many summer residents understand that salt in the garden can be harmful, but soda is considered completely safe. And this is a delusion. Let's remember the formula for soda: NaHCO3. In other words, sodium bicarbonate. I mean, it's salt. To be precise, the sodium acid salt of carbonic acid. Well, of course, when using soda, we will get exactly the same effect as when using table salt - we will destroy plants, spoil the soil.

Can weed beds be mulched?

Yes, it's a great mulch. But on one condition - they should not have seeds or even inflorescences, because some types of harmful plants are able to ripen already being plucked.

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