How to re rope a cat tree
How to Re-Sisal a Cat Scratching Post
Learn how to re sisal a cat scratching post! This shop has been compensated by Collective Bias, Inc. and its advertiser. All opinions are mine alone. #IAMSCat #CollectiveBias
Who has an old cat scratching post which needs the sisal rope replaced? We all have one, a warn out cat post that either needs to be fixed or tossed away.
As you know, they’re expensive and after a while, the sisal rope wears out and becomes far too frayed for the cat to use. Ours has been that way for a month or two, and Turbo has lost interest in it.
I think it’s because it’s so frayed his claws don’t have much to bite into anymore. It’s time to remove and replace the sisal on the cat scratching post!
Re-Sisal a Cat Scratch Post
If you’re new to my blog, Turbo is our cat. He’s a 5-year-old Munchkin cat we adopted about 3 years ago. In his previous life, he was a show kitty who won all kinds of different ribbons for strutting his stuff on the catwalk…. that is where the term came from, right?
I don’t know – I have never been to a cat show, do they walk the cats around – like at a dog show? Hmm!
Nevertheless, cats don’t come much cooler than Turbo. He’s a polydactyl munchkin cat, which means he has extra toes and short legs.
He has a total of 22 toes and claws, and his little muscly arms are only a few inches long. He’s the typical rug hugging munchkin who loves to play and screech around the house as all cats do.
He’s also a mama’s boy, when he sits on mums lap and looks at you with those big Turbo eyes you can’t help but want to give him a treat!
Spoiling Your Cat with IAMS Treats
Munchkin cats are just like every other cat in the world, they love to be spoiled and our Turbo just happens to be a big lap cat who loves his belly rubbed.
He’s a very “good boy”, and he knows it. In turn, he gets spoiled with treats, almost daily! But, we also want him to be in good health, so we’re spoiling him with the new IAMS cat treats!
We like to give him the IAMS Hairball Care because it targets Turbo’s specific needs, and well — because who likes cleaning up hairballs? haha. Not me, as I’ve recently found out…
It’s kind of ironic that we’re talking about IAMS Hairball Care cat treats today on the blog.
We never thought about getting Turbo anything hairball related because he had never coughed up a hairball, at least since we got him. Well, last month he did.
We were not around when he hacked it up. We got home from dinner and I sat down on the couch, looked out the window and that’s when I saw it…Sitting right there on the window sill in front of Turbo’s cat perch.
WHAT THE HECK IS THAT?
I thought somehow a mouse got into the house and Turbo decided to chew it up and leave it mangled on the window sill… Nope, it would have had to have been a rat! It was huge! And gross!
It was his first hairball, in 3 years! Okay Turbo, time for some IAMS Hairball Care food and treats!
Some cats have extra great digestive systems that take care of the hairballs, some don’t, and apparently some store it up for years and hack it out while you’re gone so it looks like a mangled rat on your window sill when you come home. Crikey!
Either way, IAMS Hairball Care treats it is! And because he’s been extra good this winter, we’re going to give the IAMS Proactive Healthy Weight & Hairball Care Dry Cat Food a try, too.
The new reformulation allows us to customize his nutrition with treats, wet, and dry cat food too. Judging from his reaction to the bag, I think he may like it already, or maybe he thinks the IAMS kitty is his friend?
I’ll spare you photos of the hairball. I’m kidding, I did not take photos of it!
Let’s move on to re-roping the cat scratch post, yes?
Stop by Walmart, grab some sisal rope for your project, and of course, some IAMS cat treats to spoil your furbaby; be on the lookout for the IAMSâ„¢ Mega Bag cat treats!
Re-Rope a Cat Scratching Post
We’ll begin with our old, frayed cat scratch post.
You know, these things are expensive! I know we paid quite a bit for ours, I think it was somewhere just south of $100.
It’s a 30″ scratch post and it’s held up very well, considering how much Turbo loves to use it.
Here’s a picture of it the first day we got it — and yep that’s Turbo, instantly digging his claws into it! 🙂
And here it is now. As you can see, the entire center section where the cat claws worked their magic is where it is in desperate need of attention.
We can re-rope the entire thing just as well.
Figure out how much sisal rope you’ll need to replace. Simply measure the height of the post, measure the width of the rope (probably 3/8″), and measure around the post once.
How to Measure Sisal for Cat Post
Take the height (ours is 30″) divided by the width of the rope (3/8th inches or .375 inches), which equals 80. This means our rope wraps around the post roughly 80 times. Measure around the post, ours is 12″. So, 80 multiplied by the circumference of the post (12 inches) equals 960 inches, or 80 feet. This works out great mathematically for us, since our scratch post is 12 inches (1 foot) in circumference. It may not be so neat for your if your post is a different size, but the math is the same.
- 30″ divided by .375″ = 80″
- 80″ multiplied by 12″ = 960″ or 80 feet
A 100 foot roll of 3/8th inch sisal rope will work great for our cat scratching post.
Begin by removing the sisal rope from the cat tree.
Use scissors or a utility blade to get one row of rope clipped. From there you should be able to unwind the rope.
The rope for most quality scratching posts will not be glued on, they’ll only be tightly strung, which is how we’re going to string ours too.
Pro Tip: Remove any staples or fasteners with needle-nose pliers.
Once you’ve unwound the rope from the scratching post, you may have to remove some staples or small brads, maybe a bit of glue where the rope began or ended. Once the post is clear we’ll get our sisal rope ready.
Pro Tip: Keep the vacuum handy! Sisal is quite messy when it’s all frayed up from the cats. If you have sensitivities, you may also want to wear a dust mask.
At one end of the sisal, wrap a little bit of tape, about 1 to 2 inches high around the rope.
This will prevent any fraying from the starting point and help us secure the beginning point of the rope to the post. I used a 1.25″ screw, going through the tape to secure the beginning point to the base.
On your first wrap around the post, you can wrap over the screw so you’ll never see it.
Secure the sisal to the lowest point on the scratch post. Depending on the post material, you could secure it with a screw, staples, or a combination of fasteners and glue.
Once your rope is secured near the base of the cat scratcher, wrap it very tightly around the post. You can add a dab of glue every few rows if you find it necessary. But it really won’t be of much help once your cat begins scratching at it.
So, it’s important to wrap the sisal very tight around the post. You’ll also want to use your hands, standing above the cat scratcher, and press down to help tighten downward against the previous row of rope.
Tight around and tight down – both are key to a successful re-rope of your sisal rope cat scratcher.
Note: I have my cat scratcher on the table for pictures, but I moved it to the ground to get a better angle to tighten the rope.
Really press downward every couple of rows to tighten the rope as much as possible.
When you get to the top, secure the sisal just as you did with the bottom, a screw, staples or a combination of fasteners and glue. It all depends on the materials you’re working with.
Pro Tip: If you’re working with cardboard, insert a small block of wood inside the cardboard tube, carefully screw through the rope, into the tube, and secure it to the wood block.
All said and done, removing and replacing the sisal on our cat scratching post only took about 20-30 minutes time.
I would rate this as an easy DIY project. Look at Turbo just sitting in his cat perch catching some rays. See, I told you he was a good boy!
I hope now instead of tossing your scratch post, you’ll consider replacing the sisal on yours (it’s only a few bucks) and keeps your furball happy for many years to come!
Having a good cat post in the house is essential to helping Turbo stay happy and healthy.
He needs the post not only to scratch, but also to stretch his little legs and puffy chest. Aside from his newly roped cat scratch post, he’s loving his new IAMSâ„¢ cat treats!
How do you treat your cat?
How to re rope your cat scratching post
Advice and info., Arts and crafts, Ropes for animals
Posted by ropelocker on
Replacing the rope on your cat’s scratching post doesn’t have to be a nightmare job.
A decent scratching post can be the difference between a happy cat and a shredded sofa. They’re good fun and good exercise for your pet, which makes it all the more important to keep yours in good condition.
If your feline friend has clawed its post down to the base, you’ll probably be tempted to buy a replacement before they begin eyeing up other scratching spots about the house. But actually, there’s no need to purchase a fancy new one. Re-roping your post is easy enough, cheap to do, and makes a great up-cycling project.
WHICH ROPE IS BEST FOR SCRATCHING POSTS?
Sisal is a coarse, bristly rope which makes it the perfect material for your cat to dig its claws into. It’s 100% natural, meaning it’s completely pet safe. And it’s cheap! Why buy a whole new cat post when you can grab 20 metres of 6mm sisal for just a few quid?
WHAT SIZE ROPE DO I NEED?
There’s no specific size we recommend for scratching posts, but most people go for a small diameter (around 6mm – 10mm). The smaller the rope, the cheaper it is per metre, and a thinner rope should be easier to work with and stick down. A thicker rope may last longer, but we’re not talking about a significant difference here. Any diameter should be more than durable enough to last your cat a couple of years, if not more.
The diameter of each batch of sisal is measured during manufacture, when the rope is under tension. This means the final product could potentially be slightly bigger. Take this into account if you need to thread it through any holes in your scratching post.
HOW MUCH ROPE DO I NEED?
The most common mistake people make is not ordering enough rope. Many people assume a couple of metres will be plenty for a scratching post but you might be surprised how much you truly need.
To work out an exact measurement for your post, you only need to know three things…
- Firstly, you need to measure the height of your scratching post. This needs to be in millimetres (e.g. 1m is 1000mm).
- Measure the post’s circumference (also in millimetres). This is the circular measurement around the top of the post. You’ll struggle to measure the round edge with a ruler, so we recommend using a flexible tape measure.
- The final figure you need is just the diameter of your rope. (e.g. If you’re going to buy 10mm sisal, the number is 10).
- Now, just put your three numbers into the sum: height ÷ diameter x circumference.
- This is how much rope you’ll need. But remember, you’re currently still working in millimetres, so divide your answer by 1000 to see how much sisal you need in metres. (e.g. if you need 12,200mm of sisal, this is the same as 12.2m).
Still utterly confused? Here’s an example…
This post is 60cm tall, which is the equivalent of 600mm. Around the top, its circumference measures 10cm (100mm). If we want 6mm sisal rope, this gives us the sum: 600 ÷ 6 x 100. This equals 10,000mm. If we want this measurement in metres, we must divide 10,000mm by 1000 to get a final answer of 10m.
If in doubt, order a little more than you think you’ll need – better to overestimate than not have enough. And if you’re still stuck, feel free to contact us.
HOW TO RE-ROPE MY SCRATCHING POST
So you’ve chosen your rope, chosen your size, worked out how much you need – now what?
Thankfully, re-roping your post is a pretty simple process. But if you’d like a step-by-step guide to help you, you’re in luck! Click on our video below.
A few extra tips…
- Start from a clean base. Cut away any mangled rope still hanging onto your post and remove any glue or nails before re-roping. This will make it easier to stick your sisal down and ensures a tighter wrap.
- Stick it down securely. We recommend using some decent glue to fix your sisal down. Lots of people like to nail their rope into place, but this tends to be more time consuming. Plus, there’s the risk that your cat could catch its claw on a nail head, which wouldn’t be fun. Make sure you check your glue isn’t toxic for pets though.
- Start from the bottom. Wind the rope up the post, gluing as you go, for the neatest finish. If you start from the top, this could be quite fiddly as the rope may slip down and wont wrap as tightly.
- Let it dry. Wait for the glue to set before handing the post back to your furry friend.
Tadahhhhh! You’ve got yourself a brand new scratching post! Better let the cat have a play before the curtains become their next victim.
25 brilliant life hacks for cat lovers
A cat in the house is not entertainment or salvation from loneliness, often it is a full member of the family.
And I want him to be absolutely happy.
For those who dream of making their pet's life a little better, we publish 25 interesting tips.
Wrap the legs of a coffee table
with a thin rope - you get an impromptu scratching post.
Stack several of these tables on top of each other to create a bookcase for your cat to rest.
Food and toys can also be stored here.
You will need:
- 4 LACK tables from IKEA.
- 12 angle brackets + screws to fix them.
- Thin rope to wrap the legs.
- 1 of the IKEA bath mats: this will serve as a sleeping place for the cat.
- 1 screwdriver.
- Fix the tables one on top of the other using the angle brackets. try fasten them stronger: the design must be stable.
- When fastening, turn the bottom table top down - so the structure will be strong stand on the floor.
- Wrap the legs with twine (how many legs is not important, do as you (or your cat) likes it better). Secure the rope with nails or glue, or you can just tie a few strong knots.
- To equip a cat with a place to sleep, you can buy a soft and fluffy bath mat, cut it into two parts and put it on two floors.
Add a few green tea leaves to the litter box: they will absorb the odor.
You can make a scoop out of a plastic bottle. It is convenient for them to clean up after the cat, and if necessary, it is easy to replace it.
Terrariums are a good way to protect your flowers from the cat, and the pet will not walk around the house with dirty paws. Terrariums are heavy, which means that the cat will not be able to throw them off, and even if he can, they are strong enough and will not break.
Or place pine cones around potted plants: it is uncomfortable for the cat to walk on them, and he will stay away from the flowers.
Nuno De Sa Teixeira/Flickr.com
To prevent your cat from chewing on the wires, put them in corrugated pipes, which can be purchased
at the hardware store.
Buy an all-purpose stain and odor remover at the pet store - otherwise it is very difficult to get rid of them.
Build a high seat on the windowsill so that the cat can see through the window everything that happens outside.
Or use an old ladder as a ramp for the cat to climb.
Buy a toilet paper holder so your cat can't unroll it. Here, for example, is an interesting option from eBay.
Make your own flea repellent.
- Clean spray bottle.
- 2 glasses of water.
- 2 tablespoons witch hazel tincture.
- 1 large lemon, cut into wedges.
- A handful of fresh twigs or a tablespoon of dried lavender.
- Combine all ingredients except witch hazel in a saucepan.
- Keep on low heat for 30 minutes, let cool. The water should turn lavender in color and smell like citrus.
- After cooling, strain the liquid through a colander, discard the lemon and lavender.
- Add witch hazel to the resulting decoction and pour everything into a bottle. You can also put another 1-2 sprigs of lavender there. You can store the mixture in the refrigerator, and use it once a week.
- It is necessary to carefully sprinkle the decoction on the cat, stroking and sorting out the coat. Let's face it, cats are not happy with this, but no fleas after walking.
And your own anti-cat product - to scare away the cat when he sharpens his claws on furniture or tries to jump on a closet.
- Clean spray bottle.
- Some liquid soap.
- Lemon oil.
- Eucalyptus oil.
- Fill the bottle three-quarters full with water, add a few drops of liquid soap (preferably clear, so as not to leave color marks on the furniture).
- Then add 10 drops each of lemon and eucalyptus oils and shake well to mix well.
- Spray a place where you do not want to see your cat, and he will not want to appear there.
Make your own cat toys. Let your imagination run wild and use plastic eggs
from under “k ender ov”, threads, sticks, feathers, ribbons.
Set up a play area for your cat at home.
And don't forget: cats love boxes.
Make a fun and inexpensive toy for your cat using just a cardboard box and a ball.
- Cardboard box. The dimensions depend on the toy you are going to put inside. A long and almost flat box with a height sufficient for the toy, for example, a ball could freely roll inside.
- Piece of cardboard. We will make a cardboard partition inside to divide the box into two parts.
- Glue. Of course, superglue is better, but, in principle, any other will do.
- Stationery knife.
1. Draw a line down the middle of the box, and then draw more several perpendicular to it every 10 cm (as in the photo below). Along these lines we will make holes.
2. Draw holes along the lines - circles arranged in a checkerboard pattern. But be careful with circles in the center, do not forget that there will be a partition in the middle.
3. Using cut out the circles you have drawn with a utility knife. It should turn out like this:
4. Now you need to make a partition. To do this, measure the height and the width of the box and cut out the corresponding wall from a piece of cardboard. If the cardboard is not enough durable, take several identical strips and glue them together.
5. Draw circle and cut another hole in the box through which you will push the toy inside.
Learn more about feline body language and you will always understand what your pet is trying to tell you.
Cat lying on side or stomach, breathing slow or normal. Legs are freely extended. The tail either just lies, or a little twisted.
Tail tip slightly trembles. Ears twitch. Looks intently and licks his lips. With a small excitement can hastily lick the paw.
presses the tail to the body, and if it is standing, it can sharply swing it up and down. Pupils wide, ears upright. The mustache is directed forward.
Cats can demonstrate two emotions at the same time: fear and aggression. The pupils are dilated. The cat grumbles softly, and tail makes rotational movements. The ears are tense, pressed to the head.
If you need to bathe your cat, do it in the sink, not the tub. So it's easier to lather. In addition, the close proximity of the owner will help calm down a cat who does not like to wash.
If your cat's hair is matted, grow catnip at home: it has restorative properties.
If you can't stop your cat from climbing into a closet, leave one shelf empty and let it rest there.
Hide the litter box in a drawer or box.
Spend a few minutes in the morning or evening brushing a lot less cat fur on your furniture -
Walking your rubber-gloved hands over sofas and other furniture is the fastest way to remove hair.
If you also have a dog, hang a higher shelf with a cat bowl so that the cat can easily climb up there and the dog will not interfere with her eating.
And remember: if the cat blinks slowly when looking at you, it means that he loves you.
Author and layout in Tilda — Lera Merzlyakova.
Editor - Alina Mashkovtseva.
Content of Article
- Causes of the disease
- The main symptoms
- Diagnostics in the veterinary clinic
- Care at home
- How to treat fractures and dislocations of
- rehabilitation period
- Preventive measures
Cats are extremely active, restless and inquisitive animals. It is precisely because of these natural character traits that they often receive injuries of the musculoskeletal system - fractures and dislocations. At the same time, it is often quite difficult to distinguish these two pathologies from each other.
Causes of the disease
Fracture is a violation of the anatomical integrity of the bone and adjacent tissues. It can be acquired or congenital and occur under the influence of external force or pathology, respectively.
If we talk about congenital pathologies of the bone structure, they are diagnosed only 1-2% of the total number of visits to veterinary clinics with fractures. The reasons for the birth of kittens with fractures of the limbs are intensive labor activity of the uterus, osteoporosis, rickets, osteomalacia in the expectant mother.
Veterinarians distinguish between two types of acquired bone injuries based on the cause of their occurrence: pathological and traumatic. The first group includes fractures that occurred as a result of osteosarcoma, osteomalacia, etc.
Traumatic fractures occur not only due to various injuries resulting from a fall from a height, falling under the wheels of a car, a fight with an opponent, but also during unprofessional obstetric care.
Unlike a fracture, a dislocation is a violation of the anatomical location and a change in the physiological functions of the joint. The bone remains intact. Dislocations are also divided into two categories: acquired and congenital. The causes of dislocations are similar to fractures.
No animal is insured against acquired dislocations and fractures. Breeds such as Persians, Maine Coons, Himalayan cats are predisposed to congenital pathologies of the joints.
In case of fractures and dislocations, the animal has common clinical signs: pain syndrome, impaired motor function (lameness), swelling of the damaged area.
There are three types of fractures - closed, open, and displaced. Cracks are also serious damage.
Signs of an open fracture in a cat:
- violation of the integrity of the skin;
- the bone is broken, its ends are displaced and come out;
- tissue rupture in the area of the fracture;
- severe pain.
With open wounds, the risks of tissue necrosis and infection are very high.
The following symptoms are typical for a closed fracture without displacement: the broken bone is in its usual position, the skin and tissues swell, turn blue, redden. In a displaced fracture, the bone diverges in different directions, the soft tissues are partially damaged. There is a risk of internal bleeding.
A crack can easily be mistaken for a bruise. The bone remains intact, its edges do not diverge and are held by an intact area. The cat can move cautiously, while she experiences pain.
Simple dislocation is recognized by the following signs:
- skin and tissues remain intact;
- inability to lean on the surface;
- pain when touching an injured limb;
- the dislocated part of the body is asymmetrical.
For complex dislocation, accompanied by rupture of ligaments and tendons, the appearance of hematomas in the injured area is typical.
Diagnostics in a veterinary clinic
The fact that the pet was injured is immediately obvious, but a visit to the veterinary clinic is still necessary. After examining the pet and conducting a series of diagnostic studies, the veterinarian will determine the degree of damage and prescribe the appropriate treatment.
Necessary diagnostic methods include general and biochemical blood tests, X-ray in two projections, echocardiography of the heart. In some cases, an abdominal ultrasound is required.
If you have seen a cat hit by a car or fall from a great height and you suspect a fracture, the injured paw should be splinted. This procedure will immobilize the broken limb. A flat board can be used as a tire, or, in the absence of one, thick cardboard folded several times.
The splint must be applied in such a way as to be able to fix the two joints close to the fracture from below and from above. The design should be wrapped with a bandage in several layers. After that, you need to take the victim to the veterinary clinic.
In case of open fractures, the wound is covered with sterile gauze pads, and a splint is placed on top.
If you are sure that the cat has a dislocation, then in no case try to set the damaged limb yourself! With your inexperienced actions and ignorance of feline anatomy, you can cause irreparable harm to your pet. Apply an ice pack to the injured limb, apply a tight fixative bandage and take the pet to the veterinary clinic.
To alleviate the condition of the cat and save it from traumatic shock, many owners inject painkillers into the animal. However, veterinarians do not advise doing this at home. Without feeling pain, a cat can cause even more harm to itself.
In addition, analgesics distort the symptoms of trauma. Finally, sedation will be mandatory during the X-ray examination, and the preliminary giving of painkillers can adversely affect the health of the pet.
The animal must be transported to the veterinary clinic lying down in the back seat of the vehicle. The pet should be placed on a horizontal surface - plywood, board, panel from the car - and fixed in the area of the shoulder blades and pelvis with a rope or belt.
The task of the owner is to provide the pet with the most comfortable living conditions during the treatment of fractures. The mobility of a cat can negatively affect her well-being, so freedom of movement should be limited. The ideal option would be to place the animal in a cage for 2-3 weeks.
This design should be sufficiently free, but at the same time not allowing the pet to move a lot. It is necessary to put a tray, bowls with food and water in the cage.
How to treat fractures and dislocations
Simple fractures are treated conservatively. These include anesthesia, elimination of pain shock. To restore the damaged bone, immobilization is used with splints and splints. For pain relief, drugs such as Traumeel, Butomidor are used. Splints and braces are removed only after the veterinarian has given permission to do so.
Complex fractures require surgery. Osteosynthesis involves the removal of small bone fragments and the reduction of large ones. Surgical intervention using fixing metal structures should be carried out immediately after diagnosing a fracture.
Pins, plates and pins made of a special alloy with titanium remain in the animal's body for life.
Antibiotics are indicated after surgery and in open fractures.
The regeneration process will be accelerated by drugs that improve adhesion, vitamin therapy, physiotherapy.
If the cat has been diagnosed with a dislocation, treatment includes anesthesia and reduction of the injured limb, followed by the imposition of a fixing bandage. In severe cases, surgical intervention is indicated.
As for the prognosis for fractures and dislocations, in most cases it is favorable. The only exceptions are spinal fractures with damage to the structure of the spinal cord. If a rupture of large vessels of a limb or peripheral nerves occurred during a fracture, then for a cat this ends with the loss of a limb.
Dislocations should not be underestimated: if the damage is not treated, it can subsequently lead to complex muscle deformities, destruction of articular surfaces. As a result, the cat will limp for the rest of its life.
How long the recovery phase lasts depends on the severity of the fracture, general condition and age of the cat. In young individuals, it usually lasts three weeks, a maximum of 30 days. In an old cat, the healing process is longer - 35-40 days.
To monitor the correct fusion of the bone structure, the pet should be taken to the veterinary surgeon for a checkup every month.
To restore the motor function of the injured limb, elasticity and muscle tone, manual massage should be performed, the technique of which will be introduced by the veterinarian. Daily massage procedures stimulate blood circulation, healing of periosseous tissues and accelerate the process of bone fusion.